Under Mount Saint Elias: The History and Culture of the Yakutat Tlingit Frederica de Laguna ? SMITHSONIAN CONTRIBUTIONS TO ANTHROPOLOGY VOLUME 7 H SMITHSONIAN CONTRIBUTIONS TO ANTHROPOLOGY VOLUME 7 [In Three Parts] PART ONE SERIAL PUBLICATIONS OF THE SMITHSONIAN INSTITUTION The emphasis upon publications as a means of diffusing knowledge was expressed by the first Secretary of the Smithsonian Institution. In his formal plan for the Insti- tution, Joseph Henry articulated a program that included the following statement: "It is proposed to publish a series of reports, giving an account of the new discoveries in science, and of the changes made from year to year in all branches of knowledge." This keynote of basic research has been adhered to over the years in the issuance of thousands of titles in serial publications under the Smithsonian imprint, com- mencing with Smithsonian Contributions to Knowledge in 1848 and continuing with the following active series: Smithsonian Annals of Flight Smithsonian Contributions to Anthropology Smithsonian Contributions to Astrophysics Smithsonian Contributions to Botany Smithsonian Contributions to the Earth Sciences Smithsonian Contributions to Paleobiology Smithsonian Contributions to Zoology Smithsonian Studies in History and Technology In these series, the Institution publishes original articles and monographs dealing with the research and collections of its several museums and offices and of professional colleagues at other institutions of learning. These papers report newly acquired facts, synoptic interpretations of data, or original theory in specialized fields. These pub- lications are distributed by mailing lists to libraries, laboratories, and other interested institutions and specialists throughout the world. Individual copies may be obtained from the Smithsonian Institution Press as long as stocks are available. S. DILLON RIPLEY Secretary Smithsonian Institution Under Mount Saint Elias: The History and Culture of the Yakutat Tlingit Frederica de Laguna PART O N E SMITHSONIAN INSTITUTION PRESS City of Washington 1972 A Publication of the SMITHSONIAN INSTITUTION National Museum of Natural History LIBRARY OF CONGRESS CARD 77-185631 United States GOVERNMENT PRINTING OFFICE, WASHINGTON : 1972 For sale by the Superintendent of Documents, U.S. Government Printing Office Washington, D.C. 20402 - Price $16.50 per 3 part set. Sold in sets only. To the People of Yakutat The day has long passed since the ethnographer could write in the confident expectation that the people whose culture he described would never read his book. The growing literacy and self-consciousness of peoples all over the world mean that, even in those remote areas of Melanesian jungle where today the missionary or trader has hardly penetrated, there will be a literate population, perhaps sooner than we expect. In Alaska, during little more than a lifetime, there has been the transformation of hunting and fishing peoples who could neither read nor write into literate fellow citizens. What- ever we as anthropologists or as historians write about Alaska will be read and judged by these Alaskans, and upon their verdict will depend the welcome and success of those ethnologists who may follow us. The local critics will be more severe than our profes- sional colleagues, since it is their own lives (or those of their parents and grandparents), their hopes and fears, their failings and triumphs that we, the anthropologists, describe. To my friends at Yakutat I must therefore address both my heartfelt thanks for their friendship and help in gathering the data used in wTiting this book, and my apologies for any mistakes I may have made. I also ask forgiveness if I have unwittingly offended any- one. In any community, large or small, there are bound to be differences of opinion, for, as one of my Tlingit teachers used to say: "There's always two sides." For this reason alone, I know I cannot please everyone equally. In describing the potlatch given by one sib, other sibs may feel slighted, or other persons believe that they could have given a better account than the one I used. If there were dark pages in the ancient life, my Tlingit friends must remember that no cruelty toward witches or slaves, no blasphemous bigotry, no blood- thirsty violence of which their ancestors may be accused can equal those examples of which my own ancestors or other Whites have been guilty. As part of our history, these facts should not be forgotten. Lest anyone suppose that I or anyone else is making any money from this book, let me explain that the Government Printing Office is not a commercial pub- lishing house; it does not make a profit on books it sells, because to print them is the service which it must render to the people of the United States. In recom- mending this book for publication, the Smithsonian Institution does me a great honor, but no one has or ever will pay me royalties for it. Of course, I could not have gathered the information without the grants-in- aid that made travel to Alaska possible, nor written the book without the fellowship that permitted me to leave my regular job for a year. For this help I am truly grate- ful. But it has not enriched me. The additional labor through many vacations and the many extra expenses incidental to this work, I have gladly undertaken, for it is in work of this kind that anthropologists delight and in which they find their most precious rewards. Yet, I should like the people of Yakutat to feel that this is thek book, too. Needless to say, all notes involving personalities are held in confidence; all tape recordings of songs belonging to sibs or to individual composers will never be repro- duced without permission from their owners. The pur- pose of this work has not been to gather material for personal gain, but rather to record in as truthful a manner as possible the history and customs of the people of Yakutat, so that not only our students today but also their own children and grandchildren might learn about this chapter in the history of our Alaska. I have wanted this book to be accurate and scholarly, based upon what I was taught, not on what I guessed or imagined. Therefore, when quoting a statement or reporting some item of information, I should have liked to include the name or initials of the person from whom I heard it, just as I have cited the author of a book from which I have quoted. But I do not feel free to do this with my Yakutat friends, lest I inadvertently cause embarrassment to someone. Such specific credit to individual informants is given only to those who have died. These volumes are therefore a tribute to their memory. The living will find their names or initials only where I have quoted them on the history of Yakutat, on myths and tales, or on other subjects of public knowledge such as may pertain, for example, to the songs they recorded. I do not want anyone to assume, however, that my debt to the living is less than that to those who have left us. To Olaf and Susie Abraham I owe knowledge about many topics including the old-style house, hunt- ing, cosmology, and song composition. Harry K. Bremner taught me not only about history, sib ter- ritories, religion, the potlatch, and native beliefs of the afterlife, but also about the duties of the chief?his role in war, in the potlatch, and in the education of the young. No one could have been more helpful or patient in explaining the intricacies of social organization than was Helen Bremner. Maggie Harry shared her knowl- edge of preparing dried salmon, helping women in childbirth, and caring for babies. Emma Ellis and Annie George both gave valuable information about Dry Bay customs: the former was particularly helpful in matters pertaining to the life of women and to the making of peace; the latter gave information about sib heirlooms and the protocol of the potlatch. Information about hunting, fishing, food preparation, and native manu- factures I also owe to these women, as well as to Olaf Abraham, Harry K. Bremner, Sampson Harry, Harvey Milton, William Thomas, and John Ellis. The last named, John Ellis, was both patient and skilled in questions pertaining to Tlingit linguistics; to him I owe many insights into the meanings of abstract terms and philosophical concepts. To single out my friends mentioned above does not lessen my debt to the others. My special gratitude goes to all of the following native residents of Yakutat who showed so much patience in answering questions, inter- est in volunteering information, and kind friendship. I have identified each person with whom I worked according to sib affiliation (see pp. 217-229) and birth- place, although all have long been residents of Yakutat. Obviously, from some who were met only in 1949, or briefly in 1952 and 1954, only a little information was gained, while others gave much more. I have not included the many children and grandchildren who served, not so much as informants but as unconscious embodiments of Yakutat life. Finally, I must make special mention of Mrs. Katy Dixon Isaac, who shared with me her name, Kux&nguwutan, and who now lies in the cemetery at Ankau Point. Olaf Abraham, Teqwedi, born Yakutat, 1886. In 1949 his son, David, was interpreter; in 1952 and 1954, his wife. Susie Bremner Abraham, Kwackqwan, born Yakutat, 1903; wife of Olaf. Harry K. Bremner, Kwackqwan, born Yakutat, 1893; lived in Controller Bay area, 1907-10. Helen Italio Bremner, Gafyix-Kagwantan, born Yaku- tat, 1900; wife of Harry. John Bremner, Kwac]?qwan, born Yakutat, 1912; brother of Harry. Maggie Dick, CAnkuqedi, born Dry Bay, 1897; moved to Yakutat in the 1930's; since deceased. Her hus- band, Frank Dick, Tl'uknaxAdi, born Sitka, 1899; died 1964; acted as interpreter. Ben Dirky, Kwackqwan, born Yakutat, 1890; edu- cated by his father (White) at Katalla. Visiting his mother, Mrs. Annie Johnson, at Yakutat in 1954. Jack Ellis, Ti'uknaxAdi, born Sitka, 1892; died Yaku- tat, 1952. Emma Ellis, Kagwantan, born Dry Bay, 1896; widow of Jack Ellis; has lived in Yakutat since 1911. John Ellis, Kagwantan, born Yakutat, 1914; son of Jack and Emma Ellis. Annie George, Tl'uknaxAdi, born Yakutat, 1890; widow of a Dry Bay man. Maggie Adams Harry, Kwackqwan, born Yakutat (or Juneau?), 1892; widow. Sampson Harry, Kwackqwan, born Situk River, 1906. Annie Nelson Harry, KTacKqwan, born Cordova, 1906; widow of Galushia Nelson with whom Dr. Birket- Smith and I worked at Cordova in 1933, now married to Sampson; speaks Eyak and Tlingit. Paul Henry, Tl'uknaxAdi, born Yakutat, about 1910. David Henry, Tl'uknaxAdi, born Yakutat, 1914; Paul's brother. Katy Dixon Isaac, Kwackqwan, born Katalla; a very old lady in 1949, died about 1955. Her grand- daughter, Violet Sensmeier, acted as interpreter in 1952; in 1954, her grandson, Sheldon James, Jr., since deceased. Frank Italio, CAnkuqedi, born Dry Bay, 1870; died Yakutat, 1956; brother to Maggie Dick. Minnie Johnson or Helen Bremner as interpreter. Jenny Jack, Teqwedi, born Yakutat, 1903; widow. Sheldon James, Sr., Teqwedi, born Yakutat, 1896; died about 1955. Mary James, Kwackqwan, born Katalla, 1926; daughter of Annie Johnson and wife of Sheldon James, Sr. Tom John, Kwackqwan, born Yakutat, 1901; died 1959. Minnie Gray Johnson, Tl'uknaxAdi, born Yakutat, 1884; died 1964; widowed, but remarried in 1955 to Frank Johnson (White). George Johnson, Tcicqedi, born Katalla or Cordova 1892; speaks Eyak and Tlingit. Annie Johnson, Kwackqwan, born Controller Bay or Bering River, 1875; died 1964; wife of George. Her husband or Minnie Johnson as interpreter. Esther Johnson, CAnkuqedi, born Dry Bay, 1900; married to Chester Johnson (White). Jenny Kardeetoo, Kwackqwan, born Yakutat(?), 1872; died 1951. Minnie Johnson as interpreter in 1949. Peter Lawrence, Kagwantan, born Sitka, 1871; came to Yakutat before 1897; died 1950. William Milton, Teqwedi, born Yakutat(?), 1888; died 1950. Nick Milton, Teqwedi, born Yakutat, 1896; died 1966; brother of William. Harvey Milton, Kwackqwan, born Yakutat, 1912; son of William. Louise Kardeetoo Peterson, KwacH:qwan, born Yakutat, 1905; married to Ben Peterson (White). Jack Reed, Ti'uknaxAdi, born Sitka, 1880; died Yaku- tat, 1953. Edward Renner, Ti'uknaxAdi, born Yakutat, 1924; died 1962(?). William Thomas, Teqwedi, born Controller Bay(?), 1911; has lived in Yakutat since infancy. Mary Kardeetoo Thomas, KwacK:qwan, born Yakutat, 1911; died 1967; wife of William. Charley White, Ti'uknaxAdi, born Situk River, 1879; died 1964; brother to Minnie Johnson. Jenny White, CAnkuqedi, born Dry Bay, 1903; wife of Charley. Sarah Williams, Kwackqwan, born Yakutat, 1910; widow. vn Preface The field data on which this report is based were gathered at Yakutat in 1949, 1952, 1953, and 1954. On my first exploratory visit, June 8 to July 13, 1949, I was assisted by Edward Malin, then a graduate student at the University of Colorado, and by William Irving, then an undergraduate at the University of Alaska. At that time several old village sites and a number of well-informed, friendly natives gave promise that combined archeological and ethnological investi- gations would be fruitful. Furthermore, I learned that there were two persons in the community who could speak Eyak, a language which I had feared was extinct. In the summer of 1952 (June 6 to September 13), I returned to Yakutat with a larger party. Dr. Catharine McClellan, who had worked with me at Angoon in 1950, collaborated in the ethnological investigations at Yakutat, and Francis A. Riddell, who had also been with us at Angoon, now directed the archeological excavations at Knight Island near Yakutat under my genera] supervision. He was assisted by Kenneth S. Lane, Donald F. McGeein, and J. Arthur Freed, then all students at or graduates of the University of Cal- ifornia, Berkeley. For part of the summer, Dr. Fang- Kwei Li, Department of Far Eastern Studies, Univer- sity of Washington, undertook linguistic research on Eyak, both at Yakutat and at Cordova. The following summer, Riddell returned to continue the archeological work, with another party from the University of California consisting of Lane, McGeein, Albert H. Olson, and Robert T. Anderson. During the summer some ethnological information was gath- ered, although this was not the primary aim of the expedition. In the winter and spring of 1954 (February 13 to June 16), I was able to resume ethnological work at Yakutat, assisted by Mary Jane Downs (now Mrs. Benjamin Lenz, then Fellow in Anthropology at Bryn Mawr College). We were accompanied by my mother, Professor Emeritus Grace A. de Laguna, although she took no active part in our investigations. For hospitality in the field I am indebted to Paul 265-517?72?vol. VII, pt. 1 2 Stout, manager of the cannery in 1949, and for other courtesies to Robert Welsh, manager in 1952 and 1954. J. B. Mallott, owner of an independent store, was also very helpful. The Alaska Native Service, the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service, the U.S. Public Health Service, the U.S. Forest Service, and the U.S. Coast Guard, all rendered invaluable assistance. Research at Yakutat was supported by the Wenner- Gren Foundation for Anthropological Research (1949, 1952), the Arctic Institute of North America, with funds from the Office of Naval Research (1949, 1953), the Social Science Research Council, the American Philosophical Society (1954). The Department of An- thropology, University of California at Berkeley, the University of Pennsylvania Museum in Phila- delphia, and Bryn Mawr College have all supported the fieldwork and aided in the preparation of this monograph. A Faculty Research Fellowship from the Social Science Research Council in 1962-63, and the hospitality of the Berkeley campus have enabled me to write much of this volume. A grant from the National Science Foundation (G-4875) made possible assembling the illustrative and bibliographic material. In preparation of this monograph, I have received the help and advice of many persons. For bibliographic assistance, especially in finding unpublished materials, I am indebted to Dr. J. Ronald Todd, Chief Reference Librarian, University of Washington, Seattle; to Dr. Willard E. Ireland, Provincial Librarian and Archi- vist, Victoria, British Columbia; to Dr. Wilson Duff, then Curator of Anthropology, and Donald N. Abbott, then Assistant Anthropologist, both at the Provincial Museum in Victoria; to Dr. John Barr Tompkins, and to Assistant Director Robert H. Becker, indeed to all the staff of the Bancroft Library at the Uni- versity of California, Berkeley. Kenneth Lane, who had copied many rare items in the Bancroft Library, generously turned over to me his complete notebook, and Dr. Robert F. Heizer, Department of Anthro- pology, University of California, Berkeley, gave me ix SMITHSONIAN CONTRIBUTIONS TO ANTHROPOLOGY VOLUME 7 notes and photographs made at Yakutat by C. Hart Merriam in 1899. Through the kindness of Dr. Luis Pericot Garcia of the University of Barcelona I was able to secure copies of pictures, in the Museo Naval at Madrid, which had been made at Yakutat in 1791 by the painter, Tomas de Suria. Permission to publish the sketches in the MS. journal of this painter (cf. Wagner, 1936) were given by Dr. David Watkins, Chief Reference Librar- ian, and Dr. Archibald Hanna, Curator, Western Americana Collection, Yale University Library. I am also endebted to Dr. Joaquin Gonzales-Muela, Pro- fessor of Spanish, Bryn Mawr College, for assistance in translating the accounts of Suria and Malaspina. Dr. Erna Gunther, now at the Department of Anthro- pology, University of Alaska, not only furnished a list of all Suria's paintings in Madrid, but gave me her invaluable notes on the specimens from Yakutat ac- quired by the Portland Art Museum from the Reverend Axel Rasmussen in 1948. Permission to publish photo- graphs of these is gratefully acknowledged, as is addi- tional information obtained from Donald Jenkins, Curatorial Assistant. Dr. Luyse Kollner, Curator, Airs. Mona Bedell, Secretary, and Virginia Hillock, Registrar, procured photographs and information on specimens in the Thomas Burke Memorial Washington State Museum, Seattle, and Dr. Walter A. Fairservis, Jr., Director, gave me permission to publish data on them. Edward L. Keithahn, Curator, sent information and his own photographs of Yakutat specimens in the Alaska Historical Library and Museum, Juneau. Other pictures of specimens there were taken for me by Malcolm Greany, photographer. Dr. Frederick J. Dockstader, Director, gave permisison to publish photographs of specimens in the Museum of the Amer- ican Indian, Heye Foundation, New York City. I am grateful to Dr. Harry L. Shapiro, Chairman, to Miss Bella Weitzner, Associate Curator Emeritus, and to Dr. Richard A. Gould, Assistant Curator, Department of Anthropology, American Museum of Natural His- tory, New York City, for permission to utilize notes and photographs made by G. T. Emmons at Yakutat before 1889. I am especially grateful to Dr. Gould for his tireless help and skill in photographing so many specimens in the Emmons collections. At Princeton University, Dr. Donald Baird, Department of Geology, and Will Starks, photographer, spared no pains to give me excellent photographs and fullest data on the collection made in 1886 by Libbey at Yakutat. Lastly, I should like to thank my Yakutat friends, John Ellis, Mrs. Minnie Johnson, and Mr. and Mrs. Harry K. Bremner for giving me pictures of Yakutat persons and scenes to use in this book. Parts of the manuscript hi various stages of comple- tion have been read by a number of experts, and if, despite their vigilance, errors have crept in or gone un- detected, the fault is mine. These are Dr. George Plafker, Geologist, Alaskan Geology Branch, U.S. Geological Survey; Dr. John W. Aldrich, Research Staff Specialist, and Dr. Richard H. Manville, both of the Bureau of Sport Fisheries and Wildlife, U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service; Dr. Fenner A. Chace, Jr., Dr. J. F. Gates Clarke, Dr. Harald Rehder, Dr. W. R. Taylor, and Howard L. Chapelle, all at the U.S. Na- tional Museum; Dr. Donald Baird, Department of Geology, Princeton University; Dr. Michael E. Krauss, Department of Linguistics, University of Alaska; Dr. Dell Hymes, Department of Anthropology, University of Pennsylvania; and lastly, Dr. Catharine McClellan, Department of Anthropology, University of Wisconsin, Madison, my collaborator in the field in 1952. Preliminary studies of Yakutat recordings were made by Lindy Li Mark and by Agi Jambor, Professor of Music at Bryn Mawr College. The transcriptions in the Appendix, however, are those prepared by Dr. David P. McAllester, Director of the Laboratory of Ethnomusicology, Wesleyan University, under a grant from the Penrose Fund of the American Philosophical Society (1967). It is Edward Schumacher, staff artist of the Smith- sonian Institution, who has so skillfully and beautifully prepared the maps and many of the illustrations for this book. But without the skill and patient devotion of the editor, these labors would have come to nothing. Preparation of the index was made possible by the kindness of Maude Hallowell, and through grants from the Wenner-Gren Foundation for Anthropological Re- search and from Bryn Mawr College. To those institutions that made this work possible, to the many individuals who gave help and information, and to my companions in the field, I wish to express my thanks. FEEDEEICA DE LAGTJNA Bryn Mawr College Bryn Mawr, Pennsylvania Contents Part 1 Page To THE PEOPLE OF YAKUTAT v PREFACE ix INTRODUCTION 3 Basic assumptions and aims 4 Conduct of the fieldwork 8 Transcription of native words 11 THE LAND AND ITS PEOPLE 13 Introduction to Yakutat 15 The Tlingit world 15 The Gulf Coast of Alaska 16 The Gulf Coast tribes 17 Ecology of the Yakutat Bay area 21 Geography and geology 21 Geological changes 24 Climate 29 Flora 30 Mammals 35 Amphibia 41 Birds 42 Fish 50 Marine invertebrates and seaweed 55 Insects 56 THE HOMELAND OF THE YAKUTAT TLINGIT 57 Yakutat Bay 58 The west side of Yakutat Bay 59 The east side of Yakutat Bay 61 Disenchantment Bay and Russell Fiord 67 Yakutat Bay to Dry Bay 71 The Ankau lagoon system 73 Lost River to Italio River 76 The Dry Bay area 81 The Alsek River 85 Cape Fairweather and Lituya Bay 90 The Gulf Coast west of Yakutat Bay 95 IcyBay 95 Icy Bay to Copper River 98 X I SMITHSONIAN CONTRIBUTIONS TO ANTHROPOLOGY VOLUME 7 Page THROUGH ALIEN EYES: A HISTORY OF YAKUTAT 107 Eighteenth-century exploration 108 The first explorers (1741-83) 108 Zaikov and other Russian expeditions to the mainland (1783-88) 112 LaPerouse (1786) -- H 4 Dixon (1787) 123 Colnett (1788) 128 Ismailov and Bocharov (1788) 132 Douglas (1788) 138 Malaspina (1791) 139 Vancouver (1794) 153 The Russians 158 Shelikhov's "Glory of Russia," and Baranov (1792-93) 158 Purtov and Kulikalov (1794) 161 "Novo Rossiysk" (1795-1801) 166 Revolt of the Tlingit: Sitka (1802-04) 170 Revolt of the Tlingit: Yakutat (1805-06) 173 Yakutat (1806-67) 176 Under the American flag 180 Thefirstyears (1867-80) 180 The first surveys (1880-84) 184 Schwatka and Seton-Karr (1886) 187 Topham (1888) 194 Miners, missionaries, and the U.S.S. Rush (1888-90) 197 The conquest of Mount Saint Elias and the end of an era (1890-1900) 201 MYTH, LEGEND AND MEMORY: THE NATIVE HISTOEIES OF YAKUTAT 209 Setting the stage 210 Myth and history 210 Tribe and sib 211 Foreign peoples 213 Sibs among the Gulf of Alaska peoples, or important to their history 217 Historical narratives 230 Introduction 230 The history of Yakutat 231 Other versions of the Kwacliqwan migration story 236 Further tales about Knight Island and Xatgawet 242 The story of the CAnkuqedi 248 The story of the Teqwedi 251 The story of the Garyix-Kagwantan 254 Wars with the Aleuts 256 The first ship at Lituya Bay 258 The defeat of the Russians 259 War between the Tl'uknaxAdi and the Tl'axayik-Teqwedi 261 The story of Gusex and the fate of the Dry Bay people 270 Smallpox 277 The war between the Kagwantan and the Cx-Atqwan 279 An averted war with the Tsimshian 284 Geological changes in the Yakutat area 286 History of the Frog House: trouble between the Tl'uknaxAdi and the KiksAdi at Si tka 288 IN THREE PARTS CONTENTS Page YAKUTAT HOUSES 293 Aboriginal dwellings and other structures 294 Meaning of the house 294 The aboriginal winter house 295 Three old houses 300 Smokehou ses 302 Camps 304 Caches 305 Bathhouses 305 House furnishings 306 Domestic life 309 Camps and houses in the 18th century 310 Houses in Lituya Bay, 1786 310 Houses in Yakutat Bay, 1787, 1788 311 Houses in Yakutat Bay, 1791 311 Houses and camps in the 19th century 313 Houses on Khantaak Island, 1886-90 313 Eyak Houses at Kayak, Controller Bay, 1886 313 Bark shelters, Disenchantment Bay, 1899 314 History of Yakutat houses 315 Tcicqedi and Garyix-Kagwantan houses west of Cape Yakataga 315 Knight Island houses 316 Nessudat houses 316 Diyaguna 'Et houses 316 Ahrnklin River houses 317 Tl'uknaxAdi houses on Johnson Slough 317 Dry Bay houses 318 Khantaak Island houses 319 Situk houses 320 Houses in the Old Village 321 Yakutat: the present town 326 The future 327 TRAVEL AND TRADE 329 Canoes 330 Introduction 330 Skin boats 330 Dugouts of the 18th century 332 Modern Yakutat dugouts 335 Snowshoes and sleds 345 Trade 346 Introduction 346 Travel and trade with the west . . 348 Travel and trade with the interior 350 Travel and trade with the south 351 Values in exchange 352 Coppers 353 Trade etiquette 354 Motives for travel and trade 356 MAKING A LIVING 359 Hunting and fishing 360 The annual cycle 360 Control of territories 361 Religious aspects 361 x ; v SMITHSONIAN CONTRIBUTIONS TO ANTHROPOLOGY VOLUME 7 Page MAKING A LIVING?Continued Hunting and fishing?Continued Land mammals 364 Weapons 367 Traps and snares 370 Sea mammals 373 Fishing 381 Food and its preparation 391 Introduction 391 Food in the 18th and 19th centuries 393 Meat of land animals 394 Birds and birds' eggs 395 Seal meat 395 Meat of other sea mammals 398 Fish 399 "Beach food" 403 Plant food 405 Some native recipes for modern foods 410 Tobacco and intoxicants 410 Native manufactures 412 Raw materials 412 Men's tools 413 Domestic utensils 416 Wooden boxes 419 Pottery 420 Women's tools 421 Skin dressing and sewing 423 Skin containers 426 Matting and cordage 427 Baskets 427 Chilkat blankets 431 Dress and decoration 432 Aboriginal clothing 432 Dress at Yakutat 435 Ceremonial costumes 439 Personal adornment and grooming 444 THE SOCIAL WORLD 449 Sibs and crests 450 Sib and moiety 450 Sib individuality 451 Yakutat crests 452 Ownership of crests 453 Types of crests 455 Validation of crests 457 Alienation of crests and crest objects 458 Sib characteristics 461 IN THREE PARTS C O N T E N T S XV Page THE SOCIAL WORLD?Continued Social position 461 Aristocrats and commoners 461 Slaves 469 Chiefs and slaves in the 18th century 474 Kinship 475 The basic terms 475 Grandparents and grandchildren 476 Parents and children, father's brother and mother's sister 478 Maternal uncles and their sister's children. 479 Paternal aunts and their brother's children 481 Brothers and sisters 482 Sib-children 485 Husbands and wives 488 Mothers-in-law and fathers-in-law 492 Brothers-in-law and sisters-in-law 494 THE LIFE CYCLE 497 Birth 498 Introduction 498 Personal characteristics believed determined at birth 499 Pregnancy 500 Childbirth 500 Infancy 502 Care of the baby 502 Magic for babies 506 Childhood 507 Small children 507 Discipline 50S Education 512 Food taboos 514 Children's games and toys 515 Growing up 516 Training of boys 516 Adolescent girls 518 Premarital sex knowledge and illegitimate babies 523 Maturity 524 The missionary's views on marriage at Yakutat 524 Marriage 524 Adult life 527 Old age 529 Death 531 Death ceremonies 531 The corpse 532 The smoking feast 533 Cremation 534 The mourners 536 The end of mourning 538 Graves in the 18th century 539 Graves of the late 19th century and modern times 542 Modern funerals 545 xvi SMITHSONIAN CONTRIBUTIONS TO ANTHROPOLOGY VOLUME 7 Part 2 Page RECREATION AND ART: GAMES AND MUSIC 551 Introduction 552 Games 553 Gambling games 553 Stick drawing game 554 Hand game or "stick game" 555 Chair dice 555 Stick tossing game . - 556 Quoits 556 Chess and checkers 557 Bingo 557 Tops 558 Contests 558 Fourth of July canoe races 559 Cat's cradles 559 Music 560 Songs 560 18th-century singing 561 Recording Yakutat songs 564 Character of Tlingit songs 565 Dancing 567 Categories of songs 568 Poetic imagery in songs 572 Acquiring and composing songs 574 WAR AND PEACE 579 War 580 Types of wars 580 Maj or wars and military alliances 580 Causes for war 581 Preparations for war 582 The wTar party 5S3 Victory and defeat 584 Arms and armor 585 The warrior and his accouterments 5S5 Weapons 588 The warrior's costume 590 Peace and justice 592 The meaning of peace 592 Preliminaries to the peace ceremony 593 Restitution and retribution: evening the score 594 The peace ceremony: seizing the 'deer' 596 The peace ceremony: the role of the 'deer' 598 The peace ceremony: naming and dressing the 'deer' 599 The peace ceremony: eight nights dancing 601 The end of the peace ceremony 602 Summary of known peace ceremonies 603 THE POTLATCH 605 Introduction 606 The Yakutat conception of the potlatch 606 Functions of the potlatch 606 Types of potlatch 607 Preliminary feasts 608 IN THREE PARTS CONTENTS XVli Page THE POTLATCH?Continued The major potlatch 610 Summary 610 Purposes of the potlatch 611 Rivalry at the potlatch 613 Beginning the potlatch 616 Preparations 616 Arrival of the guests 619 Entertainment at the potlatch 623 Feasts before the potlatch 623 Singing and dancing by the guests 624 Feasting 627 Special shows by the hosts 627 The potlatch proper 629 The hosts 629 Honoring individuals 634 Paying the guests 638 Feasting and dancing after the potlatch 642 "Potlatches" for insults or to shame a rival 643 Reports of potlatches 644 The Tl'uknaxAdi potlatch in Dry Bay, 1909 644 The Teqwedi potlatch in Yakutat, 1910 646 A missionary's account of Yakutat potlatches 650 A layman's comments on a potlatch 651 CURES, MEDICINES AND AMULETS 653 Surgical techniques 655 Medical plants 655 Medicines for external use 655 Medicines for internal use 657 Medicines with great power 657 Magical plants and amulets 659 Other amulets 664 The land otter hair amulet 667 SHAMANISM 669 Introduction 670 The shaman 670 Known shamans 671 Becoming a shaman 673 The death of a shaman and the new shaman 673 Receiving the call 675 The quest 676 Cutting tongues 678 Subsequent retreats and the first seance 681 The shaman's spirits 682 The shaman and his paraphernalia 683 Regimen 683 Personal appearance 684 The shaman's "outfit" 685 Costume 687 Masks, maskettes and headdresses 690 Other paraphernalia 695 Spirit intrusions 699 SMITHSONIAN CONTRIBUTIONS TO ANTHROPOLOGY VOLUME 7 Page SHAMANISM?Continued The shaman and his powers 701 Introduction 701 The shaman's assistants 702 Inspiration 702 Spirit warnings 703 Sending the spirit for news 703 Ghostly visits 704 Power demonstrations 704 Kivalry 706 Curing the sick 708 Minor ailments 709 Epidemics 710 Stories about shamans 710 Xatgawet as shaman 710 How a man acquired land otter spirits 712 How a man acquired disease spirits 712 Daxodzu, the female shaman 712 How QA-taxetl became a shaman 713 The female shaman, Cakwe, and the chief who stabbed his nephews 714 How a Wrangell shaman was defeated 715 Further reminiscences of Tef-'ic 715 Refusing the call 719 A young man refuses to become a shaman 719 A woman refuses the call 720 White men's views of Yakutat shamanism 720 A Yakutat shaman, 1886 720 A missionary's account of Yakutat shamanism 722 The shamanistic legacy 723 "The Shouters in Alaska" (1890) 724 Native accounts of the "Shouters" 725 WITCHES AND LAND OTTER MEN 727 Witchcraft 728 Witches 72S Activities of witches 730 Origin of witches 733 Identifying the witch and destroying his power 735 Witchcraft stories 73S The girl who witched herself 738 Haida methods: the woman who witched her own son 739 The witching of ^adane& and his relatives 739 The witching of Sitka Ned 740 The witching of Jack 743 Witchcraft accusations 743 Land Otter Men 744 Fear of land otters 744 Capture by land otters and protection from them 745 Land Otter Men 747 Present beliefs about land otters 748 Stories about Land Otter Men 749 The story of Qaki 749 The girls who had Land Otter Men as lovers 750 Two little boys rescued from the Land Otter People 751 A boy rescued from land otters 752 IN THREE PARTS CONTENTS xix Page WITCHES AND LAND OTTER MEN?Continued Stories about Land Otter Men?Continued Nfeintel rescued from land otters 752 idaxin and the land otters 753 The drowned woman 754 A girl captured by land otters 754 Small boys saved by dogs 755 Two boys lost in the woods 755 Adventures of White men with Land Otter Men 755 THE TLINGIT INDIVIDUAL 757 The body 758 Sleep and dreams 759 Body parts and functions 760 Symbolism of the body in art and language 761 Reified body parts and functions 763 The tree of life 764 Afterlife and the spirit 765 The "soul" and the "ghost" 765 Forms of death 766 The story of 'Askadut who visited the land of the dead 767 The disease boat 769 Afterlife in Kiwa'a 770 "Dog Heaven" 771 Visits to the land of the dead 772 The Chilkat man who visited Kiwa'a 772 The man who visited Kiwa'a 773 Death and reincarnation of Qawusa 773 Death and reincarnation of 'AsdjiwAn and his partner 774 Reincarnation of Joseph 775 The story of Lxakunik who visited the land of the dead 775 Reincarnation 776 Insuring reincarnation 777 Choosing one's parents 778 Choosing one's sex 779 Multiple souls 779 Rebirth in the wrong sib 780 Names 781 Real names 781 Naming the child 782 Namesakes 783 Teknonymy 784 "Big names" 785 Pet names and nicknames 787 Origin of names 787 Conclusion: personal identity 788 MAN AND THE FORCES OF NATURE 791 Cosmology 792 The earth 792 The sky 795 Sun, moon, and stars 796 Space and time 797 Spatial orientation and measurement 797 Temporal orientation 798 Divisions of the year 799 xx SMITHSONIAN CONTRIBUTIONS TO ANTHROPOLOGY VOLUME 7 Page MAN AND THE FORCES OF NATUKE?Continued Space and time?Continued Counting days 801 Divisions of the day 801 The weather 803 Predicting the weather 803 Animals associated with the weather 804 The winds 804 Weather taboos 805 Bringing fair weather 806 Divination 807 The forces of nature 808 A statement of problems 808 18th-century observations 809 Swanton 's contribution 810 The Spirit Above 812 Fate, moral law, taboo, and luck 813 God 815 Spirits and beings in the world 816 Monsters and wealth-bringing beings 820 Manufactured objects 822 Plants 822 The world of animals 823 Animal souls 823 Attitudes toward annuals 824 Totem animals and other animals 825 Dogs 832 Conclusion: the ordering of the world 833 Totemism 833 The world of spirits 835 MYTHS AND TALES 837 Introduction 838 The Raven Cycle 839 Three connected versions of the Raven Cycle 844 Isolated incidents of the Eaven Cycle 857 Other myths and tales 873 The children of the sun 873 The story of Lgayal" 875 The story of Kats who married a bear 879 The story of the woman who married a bear 880 The story of the woman who married a bear and comments on the story of Kats 882 The story of the woman who raised the worm 883 The man who married Fair Weather's daughter 883 The story of Tl'EnAxxidAq 884 Stories about hemlock child and spruce root child 885 The story of the blind man and the loon 888 The story of salmon boy 889 The story of black skin 890 Wolverine man 892 The story of the girls who stole mountain goat tallow 892 The story of the girl who turned into an owl 893 The braggart gambler 894 Legend of glaciers at Yakutat 894 IN THREE PARTS CONTENTS Page MYTH AND TALES?Continued Other myths and tales?Continued The moral of Chief Shakes 894 The lying and truthful brothers in Sitka 895 Stories about a transvestite 895 The visitor to Yakutat 897 The race between the fox and the crab 897 A story about the big-breasted woman 897 The land otter's halibut hook 897 About the land far out to sea 898 The story of a Copper River potlatch 898 The discovery of copper 890 The true story of the discovery of gold 900 LITERATURE CITED 903 FIGURES Page 1. Mount Saint Elias 22 2. Mount Fairweather 23 3. LituyaBay 25 4. A native chief and woman of Port Mulgrave, 1843 178 5. "Princess Thorn" 192 6. Eagle Fort 264 7. Spearhead and log 265 8. Front of Bear House 295 9. Aboriginal winter house, Yakutat 296 10. Bear Paw House, Lost River Landing 299 11. Beaver House, Kahliak River, detail of roof 300 12. Winter house 300 13. Diagram of Kagwantan Box House, Dry Bay, 1903-07 301 14. Diagram of the Teqwedi Bear House, Khantaak Island, 1886 301 15. Diagram of the Teqwedi Coward House, Situk, 1888 302 16. Diagram of the Teqwedi Coward House, Situk, 1885 302 17. Smokehouse, 1949 303 18. Smokehouse, 1949 304 19. Smokehouse 304 20. Smokehouse 304 21. Log cabin 305 22. "Primitive bark shelter, Yakutat Bay" 314 23. Yakutat dug-out canoe and two-hole baidarka, 1791 334 24. Boats at Nuchek, Prince William Sound, 1887 _ _ . . . 335 25. Yakutat canoe and paddles, 1788 335 26. Yakutat canoes - 336 27. "Yakutat sealing canoe," 1899 339 28. Modern Yakutat "canoe" 345 29. Traditional shape of the copper 354 30. Bow and arrow 368 31. Arrowheads 369 32. Figure-four trap for weasels 370 33. Deadfall for fox, lynx, and wolverine 371 34. Snare for foxes 371 35. Snare for foxes 372 xxii SMITHSONIAN CONTRIBUTIONS TO ANTHROPOLOGY VOLUME 7 Page 36. Snare for bear 372 37. Snare for brown bear 372 38. Snare for bear 372 39. Harpoon for seals, sea otter, and fish 377 40. Flattened butt of seal harpoon shaft 377 41. Iron harpoon heads 385 42. Fish spearing device 385 43. Oelachon trap 387 44. Halibut hooks 389 45. Halibut hook 390 46. "Flensing seal hide, Yakutat Bay," 1899 396 47. Method of cutting salmon for drying 400 48. Bundle of dried fish tied up for storage 401 49. Hand hammers or pestles 417 50. Ulos 421 51. Curved iron scraper 422 52. Halibut skin bag 426 53. Spruce root rainhat and gutskin rain shirt 436 54. Patterns for beaded moccasin tops . . _ .. 438 55. ThikwaxAdi man's dance shirt 440 56. Button blankets 442 57. Headdress 443 58. Face stamps 447 59. Baby carrier 503 60. Baby hammock 504 61. Tlingit child in hammock 505 62. Chair die 556 63. Carved wooden chessmen 557 64. Tlingit song recorded in Lituya Bay, 1786 560 65. Song recorded in Sitka Sound, 1787 562 66. Metal daggers from Port Mulgrave 586 67. War pick 588 68. Design for war bonnet 591 69. Face painting for peace hostages 600 70. Positions of hosts and guests at E>acE:qwan potlatch 625 71. Positions of hosts and guests at Teqwedi potlatch 631 72. Shaman's headdress and false beard 694 73. Shaman's false beard and headdress as worn 695 74. Shaman's prophetic bone 697 MAPS 1. The Yakutat Tlingit and their neighbors 14 2. The Gulf Coast of Alaska facing 17 3. Ice fronts and coast line, A.D. 600-1290 26 4. Ice fronts and coast line, A.D. 1700-1791 26 5. Hypothetical extension of glaciers during ice-flood stage 27 6. Yakutat Bay facing 59 7. Southeastern shore of Yakutat Bay 60 8. Yakutat Harbor facing 63 IN THREE PARTS CONTENTS xxiii Page 9. Yakutat Bay to the Alsek River 72 10. Monti Bay to Black Sand Island 73 11. Yakutat to the Alsek River Delta facing 79 12. The Alsek River 88 13. Dry Bay to Cross Sound facing 91 14. Iituya Bay 92 15. The Mount Saint Elias Region 96 16. Malespina Glacier to Cape Suckling facing 99 17. Controller Bay facing 101 18. Iituya Bay, from LaPerouse 118 19. Port Mulgrave as surveyed by Dixon 124 20. Route of Malaspina's explorations, 1791 140 21. Port Mulgrave as surveyed by Malaspina 142 22. Disenchantment Bay as surveyed by Malaspina 148 23. Yakutat Bay to Iituya Bay, 1849 160 24. Yakutat Bay to Cape Suckling, 1849 162 25. Yakutat Bay, 1849 168 26. Iituya Bay, 1849 179 Part 3 PLATES (listed on page 915) 918 APPENDIX (song titles listed on page xlvii) 1149 Index of Yakutat Tape Recordings 1370 INDEX 1375 Under Mount Saint Elias: The History and Culture of the Yakutat Tlingit PART ONE Introduction BASIC ASSUMPTIONS AND AIMS This report deals with the history and culture of the Indians of Yakutat, Alaska, based upon ethnographic fieldwork and upon historical sources. It continues and elaborates, therefore, the briefer study entitled "The Archeology of the Yakutat Bay Area, Alaska" (de Laguna et a]., 1964). These volumes were planned to- gether, and were conceived as part of a more ambitious program of coordinated researches into the archeology, history, and ethnology of the northern Tlingit. The first exploratory study of this nature was made in the Angoon area and was published in 1960 as "The story of a Tlingit community: a problem in the relationship between archeological, ethnological, and historical methods." In that report, which owes its inception to the stimulation of the late Marian W. Smith, the basic premises and objectives of the program were stated, and the methods explained by which the fieldwork was conducted. The ultimate aim, as originally conceived, was ". . . to trace the development of Tlingit culture from the earliest period represented by discoverable remains down to the present time, not simply to pre- sent a descriptive history of Tlingit culture but to explore it as a case study in cultural dynamics. This would involve consideration of ancient cultural dif- fusion, continuity of traits and attitudes, internal readjustments and shifts in emphasis within the culture, the growth of those specialized patterns which give Tlingit culture its distinctive individuality, and the break-down of these under white contact with resulting consequences to Tlingit personality." [de Laguna, 1960, p. 5.] The archeological data from Yakutat have already been presented and interpreted in the light of Yakutat historical traditions and Yakutat ethnography, seen against the background of geological changes in the area, and analyzed to exhibit the distribution of Yaku- tat cultural traits along the Northwest Coast and in adjacent regions. Since nothing found could claim great antiquity, but all belonged to the period immedi- ately preceding or following the first appearance of Europeans in 1787, our Yakutat archeology should be viewed as Yakutat ethnography of the 18th century. The study, unfortunately, could neither prove nor dis- prove the various theses advanced to explain the de- velopment of northern Northwest Coast culture (de Laguna, 1960, pp. 5-6), but could only suggest what may have been the prehistoric stages of cultural growth at Yakutat. Although the earlier emphasis of fieldwork at Yakutat was primarily directed toward the history of the culture, an understanding of that culture, for itself and in its own terms, came to be the more immediate aim. As I wrote in 1949: "It would be of interest to discover what aboriginal institutions or attitudes are still alive, what aspects of culture have broken down almost completely, and which ones have proved most responsive to change without losing their continuity with the past. "In all the history of growth, change, and break- down it should be possible to trace certain continu- ities of pattern that are distinctively Tlingit. The ultimate objective of the whole study should be to discover some of the underlying causes and factors in this dynamic process. "An assumption which was not explicitly stated in the original formulation of the problem may be presented here, since it is basic to an understanding of Tlingit culture history, and since it received validation and illustration throughout our work in the field. Stated in its simplest form it is that the Tlingit themselves are as much responsible for their own culture and its history as are any of the peoples who have influenced them. In the past, it was they who, consciously or unconsciously, chose what to accept of the cultural innovations offered them through diffusion and what use to make of the op- portunities thus afforded. It has been Tlingit char- acter, interests, and orientations that have deter- mined how these importations were reinterpreted to fit Tlingit ethos and adjusted to Tlingit culture." [de Laguna, 1960, pp. 7-8.] The understanding of Tlingit culture now, or even in the past when there was presumably a more homo- geneous aboriginal life, involves not simply the elu- cidation of a set of ethnographic patterns, or norms, or behavioral averages, or ideals, as the characteristics of a "model system" in which the standard, average "individual" plays his culturally patterned roles. Rather, these cultural patterns make up the universe for many different, actual persons, who see it, live it, use it, accept it, or modify it, each in his or her own manner and from his or her own vantage point, and who find themselves fulfilled, molded, and thwarted, in varying degrees and in different ways, by the life to which each in some individual measure gives form and meaning. Ethnographic understanding demands not only a survey of behavior, concepts, and attitudes common to, or characteristic of, a group of such individuals, but, more importantly, the envisioning IN THREE PARTS INTRODUCTION of their cultural universe through the eyes of those who live in it. It is worth attempting this, even though our understanding can never be complete, since at best we will be able to see only certain aspects of the cultural universe from the perspectives of perhaps only a few persons, or even at times mistake our own reflections for the outlines of that alien reality. We must not expect perfect harmony in the view- points of those we study, if only because every culture, no matter how "functionally intact" or consistent, offers unequal opportunities to individuals and de- mands conflicting choices. Their satisfactions or dis- satisfactions, their delight in the novel or their fear of change, their ambitions, their placid acceptance, or their rebellions, create those social equilibriums and strains that are the dynamic forces responsible for cultural continuity and change (de Laguna, 1952). Our own view of culture must be flexible enough to recognize these varying reactions, and our formulations loose enough to accommodate both the typical and the atypical (which, paradoxically, is just as typical in its own way). Yakutat culture presents its own particular problems. It is now Tlingit, but has not always been so. At least the aboriginal speech was Eyak, and the culture has always been somewhat marginal to the "classic" Tlingit. There are articulate traditions referring to the introduction of Thngit speech and Tlingit ceremonial and ritual elaborations. In referring to "Tlingit," how- ever, we must not forget that local diversity distin- guished the various geographical groups, as was recog- nized by the natives and early explorers alike who designated these tribal units by geographical names: Sitka, Hoonah, Auk, Chilkat, Stikine, etc. McClellan (1954, pp. 76, 82-83) has indicated how such local peculiarities furnished themes to be exploited in pot- latch ceremonial. Despite this, we do not know the full extent of these differences. We are simply aware that Frederick Sound marks a division between the northern and southern coastal Tlingit, and that there are also variations among island, mainland, and inland groups. Here, differences in ecological setting, in contacts with different foreign groups, or relative degrees of isolation, are obviously important factors. Yet no one of these tribal groups has been the subject of a full-scale ethno- graphic monograph, nor is there any study in which local peculiarities, other than sib composition, have been made clear. (McClellan will, however, deal with the Inland Tlingit in a forthcoming monograph.) Indeed, there is no single, detailed, and comprehensive study of Tlingit culture in general. Therefore, while we can interpret most of Yakutat culture in terms of what we know of Tlingit, we cannot be sure to what extent Yakutat is unique or, recog- nizing unique features, cannot be sure how to interpret these. There is local pride at Yakutat, and an a%vare- ness of their particular geographical position and of their special contacts with their non-Tlingit neighbors. There is also great respect for the Tlingit of Sitka and Klukwan, from whom some of the lineages are derived and with whom many individuals are united by ties of kinship. Even a primarily historical study of Yakutat culture requires not only a recording of events and changes, but an attempt to answer that simpler but more difficult question: What is (was) Yakutat culture? Even if we find answers, how should we present them? How shall we write the ethnography of a people? The life of a people, seen through their eyes, is the picture of a universe. It encompasses all of the world, all that matters, all that was established in the begin- ning of time and that will endure to the end, all that has been introduced, has changed or will change, or will someday vanish. One could, of course, try to describe such a world as it gradually unfolds before the baby born into it, or sketch its outlines as they are first apprehended and later become more sharply defined for the eth- nologist. Neither course would, of itself, lead to a full portrait of the culture, for the ethnologist would first, in either case, be obliged to present an understanding of the world in order to make clear what is happening to the child or what his own experiences mean. As we know, the native autobiography, presented without explanations either by the teller or by the ethnographer- editor, conveys little meaning to the reader who does not already know something about the culture. The attempt of the ethnographer to publish his full diary and notes in the hope of exhibiting what he had learned and how he had come to learn it, would also be con- fusing, for he could never make clear or explicit the prior assumptions, understandings, prejudices, and theoretical orientations which colored, transformed, and illumined his first contacts with an alien people, much less the often undramatic but more intricate processes by which he came to know them better. To write an ethnography from such a point of view would demand that the ethnographer constantly ob- serve and study himself in the act of observing and studying others. The attempt might be an exceedingly interesting experiment in investigating the method- ology of fieldwork, but would hardly be itself an adequate ethnography. Such autobiographical accounts as have been published are literally reflections, re- constructions from memory, made either after the return from the field, or during pauses in the fieldwork. One is, of necessity, always more aware in the field of what one is learning or trying to learn than of the processes of learning, and the concentrated, vicarious SMITHSONIAN CONTRIBUTIONS TO ANTHROPOLOGY VOLUME 7 participation in the life of others, demanded by ex- ploration of another culture, precludes a sophisticated study of one's own experiences while that exploration is in process. There has been a fashion of late to condemn the so- called "classic monograph" as giving only the formal outlines of institutions and customs, not their inner meanings, or the values for those who practice them, or their "functions" (too often the meanings ascribed to them by the ethnologist himself), or their mutual inter- relationships within a system. I believe that these stric- tures apply only to poorly written accounts; poor either because the writer had failed to penetrate deeply and so did not know the culture very well, or because he was afraid of presenting material that might be judged irrelevant or subjective. The good ethnog- rapher, however, is not really constrained by the mono- graphic form but uses it simply as a framework for organizing his material. For this purpose, the "classic" form is neither better nor worse than any other form of presentation, since all are of necessity linear exposi- tions of something which is multidimensional, complex, never completely integrated nor completely understood by anyone. No presentation can claim to be definitive, although some may exhibit a wider awareness and broader range of interests than others, for never have all possible questions been asked or answered, and some of the most important questions unfortunately arise during the very process of writing. The richer the field data, the more selection is necessary for presentation in the monograph. Lastly, each account is tinged in ways of which the ethnographer himself cannot be fully aware. The order of presentation of data can perhaps best be determined by what are felt to be the major emphases of the particular culture and the clearest ways of ex- hibiting them. Beyond this, more easily organizable material will be a wealth of seeming trivialities, of observations that do not seem to fit any organized table of Contents or that are themselves incomplete items of information. The present temptation is to discard these, and to write only a study focused on some clearly defined aspect of the culture, preferably something that can be handled at a distance like a "theoretical model," sac- rificing the vivid, the concrete, the obstinately awkward detail, for the more abstract, neatly articulated and esthetically satisfying "elegant" presentation. It wall be obvious that I have not attempted the latter course, but have, perhaps rashly, risked being both unscientific and subjective in trying to let the ethnographic data exhibit Yakutat culture as I believe it is understood by the Yakutat people. A Tlingit philosopher might well begin by trying to explain his views of the universe in which men live, for the nature of that world determines and is determined by the ways in which men live in it. There are not only spatial dimensions to be considered, but temporal ones as well, since the world was not always as it is now. We should, therefore, have to understand not only the cosmology, geography, and notions of tune and space, but also the vital forces of the world and man's relation to them. These fundamental questions have never, as far as I can tell, been systematically explored by a native philosopher, or, at least, I have never worked with such an informant. Only scattered, although often illuminat- ing, insights into these problems have been given me. Perhaps for this reason, I was dissatisfied with my initial attempt to begin this ethnography with the native view of the universe, and have therefore post- poned to a later chapter a discussion, admittedly con- jectural, of man and nature. Instead, after an introduc- tion to the land and its inhabitants, I have presented a discussion of the ecology of the Yakutat area in terms of our knowledge of its geography, geology, climate, and biota, also trying to indicate what the Gulf Coast of Alaska and its resources mean to the aboriginal in- habitants as then- living space. Across the stage of the aboriginal world have moved the ancestors of the people, already in Tlingit view divided into sibs of the Raven and Eagle-Wolf moieties. The histories of these groups are the expressions of their destinies established in the legendary past by "supernatural events" (as we wTould call them) which endowed each sib with its totemic crest and with other symbols that determine or confirm its identity and its relationship to the world of nature. The interrelation- ships between sibs form the framework for all the im- portant social activities of individuals, while enduring social ties are symbolized most vividly and concretely in the lineage houses of which the sib is composed. The ways in which the people make a living, securing their food and clothing, their medicines and luxuries, bring us back again to a further understanding of their environment. These are not simply technological activi- ties, but have moral aspects?men are not something apart from nature, but share with "animate" and seemingly "inanimate" things the same being, while "natural laws" have social, moral, and "supernatural" aspects. We shall have to consider these aspects in order to understand how men should act in order to secure good fortune and success, or even to survive. We must explore in some detail the organization of human society, the relationships between moieties, sibs, and lineages, between chiefs, commoners and slaves, between the various Tlingit geographical communities, and between the Tlingit and foreign peoples. The basic social groups are symbolized by totemic crests and heirlooms, by names, by songs and dances, and their symbols are all manipulated at the great ceremonies of the potlatch and of peacemaking, and even in trading, IN THREE PARTS INTRODUCTION for these are the occasions when social relations are established, maintained, or reaffirmed. The fundamental social groupings determine the relationships of men to the territories from which they obtain their livelihood, to the animals and plants that inhabit it, and to the unseen forces allied with shaman and witch, as well as, of course, the kinship of man to man. In the minds of the natives, perhaps, the order of these relationships may be reversed, and the homeland or the bonds with animals may determine the order of human society. Lastly, we must come to the individual himself, following the pattern of his life from birth to death, or rather through a cycle which has no beginning or end, since the human soul is immortal, and is repeatedly reincarnated in the same lineage, just as the souls of all living creatures continue to reanimate new bodies when the old are discarded. The picture which I am attempting to present is one that will go back to a time when my oldest informants were young, some 80-90 years ago. It is based on the memories of their childhood and on the traditions taught them by their parents and grandparents. Through the last there will be glimpses into a still more remote past. It will be obvious that since these inform- ants are of different ages, lived in different settlements, and had different personal experiences and interests, their accounts will not be uniform. There have been many changes since 1880, and these are indicated where appropriate, although it is not my intention to present a study of Yakutat acculturation. In any event, such a study would have a flavor of artificiality, because changes of certain kinds, occurring within certain temporal limits, would have been arbitrarily selected for emphasis, whereas Yakutat culture, like that of any group, is an on-going, multifaceted, never stable set of living patterns. My view admittedly will be directed more toward the past than the present, but it will become evident how much that past is still alive. Since I want to show Tlingit culture as lived by my informants, I let them speak for themselves in their own words as far as possible, respecting when advisable the anonymity of living individuals. This may result in an idealized picture of aboriginal life, partly because some persons were consciously con- cerned to present their culture in as favorable a light as possible, and partly because vanished glories shine the brighter for those who have lost them, just as the wild strawberries of youth taste sweeter in retrospect than any that grow today. But there are also criticisms of the old days, and omissions of practices well docu- mented in early historical records, that are, perhaps, as significant as corroboration. Yet the pattern of values, as attested by myth and legend, by remembered moral preachment and biographical incident, seems to be not only the core of the aboriginal culture but that part which best endures as long as the culture retains any living integrity. For this reason, the past as idealized by the Tlingit themselves has a special kind of validity and vitality, the more so since in any age the great deeds of ancestors, their moral qualities, skills, accomplishments, and spiritual powers have been held up as models for the present generation to emulate, The ideals of the past are recalled because they provide the norms by which people still try to pattern their lives. One may well wonder why so much is remembered and respected, and why a "memory culture" refuses to die, but continues to function as a fairly lively ghost. I believe that Francis A. Riddell has offered a correct explanation. In his ethnological-archeological work in California he had been impressed by the persistence of aboriginal cultural patterns despite years of exposure to intensive acculturative forces. He found, however, that as long as the social groups could preserve their integrity, and family ties be maintained, little children continued to learn from then" grandparents, who nor- mally cared for them while the parents worked. Later, when that younger generation had perhaps tried to make a living and a satisfactory life in the White man's world, only to meet with disappointment, they would ultimately find greater worth in native life and its values. These middle-aged people would turn again to the aged for reinstruction in the old culture. This same process has clearly been operating among the Tlingit where bonds between grandparents and grandchildren are especially close, and where the wisdom of the aged is traditionally revered and the wishes of parents re- spected. During the span of my fieldwork at Yakutat I have heard several of the older natives regret their renunciation of the old ways and have witnessed their attempts to revive them again. In describing Yakutat culture, there are times when it is necessary to explain, summarize, and interpret, and here it is impossible to prevent a shift in point of view from the inside one of the native to the outside one of the ethnographer. There are obvious gaps, due to ignorance on the part of informants or to my failure to ask the right questions of the right people. I find now in writing, not only glaring omissions which might have been filled in the field, but also discover much of what I had previously been unaware, and regret that it is no longer possible to check these new insights. However, such a process could have no end, for a culture is too rich to be ever exhausted. It was naive to suppose, as I did in 1954 when returning to Yakutat, that I could "fill in gaps" in my knowledge without simultaneously discovering as much or more that still needed to be learned, for each new piece of informa- tion seemed to open up new fields for questioning or observation, and further knowledge only revealed 8 SMITHSONIAN CONTRIBUTIONS TO ANTHROPOLOGY VOLUME 7 more distant and enticing vistas which there was no opportunity to explore. Although it is my primary concern to exhibit Yakutat culture "from the inside," it must first be approached from the outside?that is, with a description of the people and country of Yakutat from our point of view, so that we may orient ourselves in the terrain and identify the tribes and sibs with which we have to deal. More importantly, we must study the history of White exploration and settlement and the observa- tions made by White explorers and visitors. Deficient though we may judge their accounts, or tantalizingly silent about so many matters which they could easily have reported verbally or in sketches, their views of the Yakutat people antedate by a full century the actual memories of our oldest informants, and supple- ment or contrast in significant ways with native tra- ditions. These earliest accounts, combined with the reports of later visitors and residents in the area, provide a background against which native tradition can be better viewed. The very biases of these White men are of interest, as indicating the kinds of pressures to which the Yakutat people were subjected. More than this, the historical records will help us to under- stand how the Yakutat people reacted to their foreign influences, and how the foreigners in their turn re- sponded. In short, we will be better able to see what the Yakutat people have made of their lives. It will also help us to avoid the fallacy of picturing the ab- original culture in a fictional tuneless "present." For ethnographic insight involves temporal depth of vision, and also the acknowledgment that every people lives its own mythology. 'Ha (our) CAgiin' is conceptualized by the Yakutat Tlingit as the origin and destiny of the sib to which each individual be- longs. It is manifested in the beginnings, in the history, and in the future of the line. The ethnologist, too, must see the present (and by implication, the future) as shaped both by the idealized and by the actual past, neither of which can be thoroughly understood without the other, and without which the present is a shadowy two-dimensional projection of reality. CONDUCT OF THE FIELDWORK On my first visit to Yakutat in 1949, contacts with the native people were sporadic and unsystematic. Not only were we living on "Cannery Row," about half a mile from the nearest native houses, but much of our time had to be devoted to archeological explora- tion. It was on this trip, however, that I renewed my old friendship with Annie Nelson. She was the widow of Galushia Nelson, and these were the Eyak couple at Cordova with whom Dr. Birket-Smith and I had worked in the spring of 1933 (Birket-Smith and de Laguna, 1938). Now in 1949 she was married to a Yakutat man, Sampson Harry, and her first child, Johnny Nelson, whom I had last seen as a little boy, was a young man. From him, I learned something of what had happened to the other Eyak we had known at Cordova in 1933, and also gained some understanding of what it meant to be a youth at Yakutat. On this first visit also, I began a long friendship with Minnie Gray Johnson. At that time she was living in a big house in the middle of town. The follow- ing winter it was destroyed by fire, and she lost a priceless collection of native baskets, boxes, blankets, ceremonial costumes, and old photographs. Helen Bremner also opened her heart to us, and her husband, Harry K. Bremner, learning of our interest, tramped home the 9 miles along the railway track from fish camp in order to tell us the native history of Yakutat. We also visited Mrs. Maggie Harry, Mr. and Mrs. Olaf Abraham, and several others whom I came to know better in later years. During the first summer, Edward Malin was par- ticularly helpful, especially for his skill in sketching and his warmth in making friends. Through him, I met Peter Lawrence, aged veteran of the first successful ascent of Mount Saint Elias. William Irving was primarily occupied with archeological work that summer, although he did gather data about the then recently incorporated community of Yakutat. On my return in 1952, with Catharine McClellan, we were fortunate in being able to live in a nice little house on the main street, right in the center of town, between the church and the ANB (Alaska Native Brotherhood) Hall on the one hand, and the post office and jail on the other. Across the street was the new house in which Minnie Johnson was living with her little granddaughter, Catharine ("Tiny") Cranston, so we naturally saw a great deal of her and her friends. Her house was, in fact, a center for the social life of the older people in the community. Catharine McClellan and I also tried to make our house a place where all the people could feel welcome, and there we enjoyed many visits from native friends and neighbors. IN THREE PARTS INTRODUCTION Just after I had moved into this house in June, and before Catharine McClellan and the archeological crew joined me, I was invited to go on a daylong excursion to Haenke ("Egg") Island in Disenchantment Bay with a large party of natives aboard Paul Henry's new gas- boat, the Fairweather. This was a wonderful experience, not only because it enabled me to learn a good deal about the geography of Yakutat Bay, but because the festive atmosphere of the outing served to establish new friendships. It was on this trip that I first met Emma Ellis, still in mourning for the death that spring of her husband, Jack Ellis, whom I had known in 1949. Some of the young fellows with us shot a number of seals in Disenchantment Bay, and we all had a picnic supper of delicious boiled seal meat and broth before embarking on the long trip home. Nothing perhaps so readily admits a stranger into comradeship as the common enjoyment of favorite local foods. Later in the summer, our entire party was able to make a trip on the Fairweather clear to the very head of Yakutat Bay, Nunatak Fiord, and Kussell Fiord. Owing to the kindness of J. B. Mallott, who ran an extension line from his electric generator into the empty school building, we were able to play for a native audience some Tlingit songs that had been recorded at Angoon in 1950. These were heard with great interest which later enabled us to make tape recordings of Yakutat songs. For most of the latter, Minnie Johnson provided a translation. On my return to Bryn Mawr in the fall of 1952, Dr. Thomas Benham, Professor of Physics at Haverford College, helped me to edit and copy these songs onto a master tape. From this, phono- graph records were cut and sent back to Yakutat to all those who had made the original recordings. Another occasion which led to greater mutual under- standing came late in the summer of 1952 when Cath- arine AlcClellan showed our colored slides in the church, while I explained our work. The people were particularly interested in the series that illustrated the many kinds of local foods available, and how these were preserved, especially since Yakutat Bay is tradi- tionally noted for its abundance of fine seals, fish, berries, and "beach food." Catharine McClellan and I had profited from our earlier collaboration at Angoon in 1950. We followed the same general procedures of fieldwork (de Laguna, 1960, pp. 12-15), except that we improved our skills in recording statements verbatim, an accomplishment in which she surpasses me. Since we usually worked together, we would normally have two versions of each interview to be checked against each other and com- bined in making the final typed copies. Such verbatim (or nearly verbatim) transcriptions were invaluable, not simply because they recorded as faithfully as possible the peoples' own observations about their own culture, 265-517?72?voL VII, pt. 1 3 but because they preserved information which might not be completely understood at the time but which later comments could often illuminate and make significant. Unfortunately, there were often two versions of each Tlingit word or phrase, with subsequent variations as the word was mentioned on later occasions. In some cases I am fairly confident that a reasonably accurate transcription was eventually achieved, but in others I have been forced to offer several versions. Quite possibly some of the differences may reflect dialectical variations, especially since our informants or their parents had come from various settlements all along the Gulf of Alaska or even from southeastern Alaska, and local differences in pronunciation are recognized. Moreover, it seems that there are also differences in pronunciation between those who speak no English or very little, and those who speak it so regularly that they are "like third grade in then: own language." During the summer of 1952 our house at Yakutat also served as headquarters for the four men who were excavating at the site of Old Town on Knight Island (de Laguna et al., 1964). From time to time, members of the archeological crew would come to Yakutat, bringing specimens which they had found and which we would discuss with informants. In Au- gust, Catharine McClellan and I visited the site for several days, participating in the digging. Due to Catharine McClellan's initiative, a number of native plants were collected. Whenever possible these were shown to our informants in order to secure their Tlingit names and any information about their possible use. In this way, samples of several native medicines were obtained. These plants were taken by Francis Riddell to California where they were identi- fied by Dr. F. R. Heckard, at the University of Cal- ifornia Herbarium, and by Dr. William Steere, at the Herbarium of Stanford University, who had pre- viously identified botanical specimens from Angoon. These specimens are now at Bryn Mawr College. During the summer of 1953, Francis Riddell and Kenneth S. Lane, although busy with excavations at Knight Island, nevertheless managed to secure some ethnographic information which is, of course, incor- porated in this account. In February, 1954, I returned to Yakutat, accom- panied by my mother and by Mary Jane Downs. The latter served as ethnographic assistant. This time we rented a house, belonging to John Ellis, which was situated on top of a steep bank well above the main road. Because of its location we were thrown into closer contact with new neighbors: Mr. and Mrs. Olaf Abraham, Emma Ellis and her son (our landlord), Mr. and Mrs. Charley White, and Mr. and Mrs. Sheldon James, Sr. My old friends, however, also climbed the snowy trail to visit us. At first we were without electric 10 SMITHSONIAN CONTRIBUTIONS TO ANTHROPOLOGY VOLUME 7 current, but in March, Robert Welsh permitted us to tap the cannery line so that we had not only electric lights but power for the tape recorder. The phonograph records of native songs which had been sent as Christmas presents to those who had sung for us in 1952 had, in the meantime, stimulated an intense interest in Tlingit music. A number of the earlier singers had died since 1952, and the recordings which they had made had been played at their funeral potlatches, which in itself gave a value to our efforts in preserving the songs. More extensive recordings could, therefore, be made in 1954, although it was usually not possible to arrange for as large a chorus as would have been desirable. The revived interest in native songs also led to some new compositions. On our return from the field, Dr. Benham of Haverford College was again generous with his equipment and skill, helping me to copy the songs so that records could be cut and sent to the performers. Again, as previously, copies of photo- graphs were sent to all who had posed for us. Because our field trip in 1954 was made in the winter and early spring, with heavy snowfalls, many more hours of the day had to be devoted to the tasks of living: pumping fuel oil for the space heater, carrying coal, chopping kindling, fetching water from a hole cut through the ice of a nearby pond, shoveling snow, hauling groceries on a sled, etc. However, these simple chores were those of our neighbors, some of whom said they knew we were "just like" them, when they saw us every morning spreading ashes on the steep path below our door. Since a fire from a defective oil stove had destroyed one house in the village that winter, we were partic- ularly grateful to Mr. and Mrs. Paul Henry and to Olaf Abraham who dealt so effectively with the fire on our own roof, caused by an overheated stovepipe. On another occasion, when our oil heater threatened to burn down the house, all of the neighbors ran to our rescue and skillfully brought the heater under control in the nick of time. Aside from these adventures, the work was conducted much as before, except that I profited from Mary Jane Downs' skill in stenographic transcription. With- out her special ability and devotion, I would never have been able to secure the complete record of an interview that lasted some 10 hours, and eventually formed some 75 typed pages, single-spaced! Among the major events of the winter was the discovery of the body of Conrad Edwards, who had drowned in 1953. In April, the niece of one of our best friends was killed in an automobile accident, an event that shocked the community. These two tragic occurrences demonstrated how sib and moiety alinements still continue to function in comforting the bereaved, honoring the dead, and in carrying out all the onerous obligations of the wake, funeral, and burial. Memorial Day meant an exodus of the entire com- munity to decorate the graves in the cemetery at the mouth of the Ankau, and also provided an occasion for us to visit all the other graveyards near Yakutat. In this way we were able to learn a good deal about the older generations from the inscriptions on tomb- stones, especially when these were discussed with informants who could identify the dead by their native names. On each of the fieldtrips all members of the parties kept diaries, of which I have copies. These recorded our own activities, events in the life of the community, notes on the weather, on birds and animals seen or reported, and descriptions of places visited on excur- sions. In addition, we prepared typed copies of all interviews. The original copy has been microfilmed for safekeeping by the American Philosophical Society; a second copy I have cut apart and filed according to the type of ethnographic information obtained. There are also special notes pertaining to the songs recorded including, when possible, both the native text and a translation. Copies of these notes and of the unedited tapes are deposited with the Folklore Division of the Library of Congress and with the American Philo- sophical Society. Other records consist of two Ror- schach protocols, analyzed by Maude (Mrs. A. Irving) Hallowell, sketches made in 1949 by Edward Malin (also microfilmed by the American Philosophical Society), and photographs taken by various members of the different parties, of which I have copies. Dr. Catherine McClellan also has copies of the tapes and notes from 1952 and 1954 (Department of Anthro- pology, University of Wisconsin, Madison). From the information thus obtained, we have com- piled not only a Tlingit vocabulary, but lists of place names, lineage houses and crests, and native names of all persons who were mentioned in interviews or could be identified from their tombstones. These personal names are arranged according to sib affiliation. There is also a complete census and map of the town as of 1952, as well as lists of earlier houses and their principal occupants. I cannot claim that the genealogical records, although numbering over a thousand entries, are com- plete. To have attempted an exhaustive compilation of this kind would have meant sacrificing the oppor- tunity to gather other, more valuable, ethnographic data. IN THREE PARTS INTRODUCTION 11 TRANSCRIPTION OF NATIVE WORDS The system of transcription of native words is essentially that employed by Boas (1917) for writing Chilkat Tlingit, except that diagraphs are used for affricatives, and A, B, I, and u are substituted for Greek letters. Raised w is used instead of raised "? in indicating such rounded back consonants as kw, qw, and xw. These are phonemically different from kw, qw, xw, etc., according to Velten (1944, p. 168, note 6), even though I was not always able to distinguish be- tween the two sets of sounds. All voiceless consonants are aspirated (It, q, i, etc.), but the aspirate sign is here omitted. All initial vowels are preceded by a slight glottal stop, that is, at the beginning of a word, and often at the beginning of a syllable. This glottal stop and also the glottalization of consonants are very lightly pronounced by most present-day speakers at Yakutat, so that mistakes may have been made in transcription. In this respect, also, the speech of these younger men and women is in striking contrast to that of the older, non-English-speaking informants, most of whom had been practiced in oratory and who more clearly aspirate or glottalize voiceless consonants. We should also note that some apparent incon- sistencies in transcription reflect the slight dialectical differences which informants recognized. The people from Dry Bay are believed to speak more like the Tlingit of Sitka or Hoonah. Thus, the southeastern Alaskan Tlingit and Dry Bay people pronounce 'whale' as yay, while at Yakutat it is pronounced as yay. There are also known to have been some recent changes in the Tlingit spoken at Yakutat; for example, y (velar y) has in many cases shifted to w. Thus, many persons say wase, not yase, for Yahtse, the river in Icy Bay from which Mount Saint Elias derives its native name. Velten (1939, 1944) has discussed Tlingit phonetics, pointing out that Boas' transcriptions of 1917 are entirely phonemic, even though Boas worked with a Chilkat informant, and Velten himself with the south- ernmost dialect of Klawak on Prince of Wales Island. Although pitch is of morphophonemic importance in Tlingit, I often failed to hear it, or heard it incon- sistently. Despite the errors, known or suspected, Tlingit words and phrases are included wherever relevant; the use of these expressions helped us the better to understand Tlingit thought. While I made no attempt to study Tlingit linguistics for itself, these efforts may be of some slight value to other scholars. For this report, I was also given copies of the notes which had been made by Dr. John P. Harrington at Yakutat in 1939-40 and which are now in the Archives of the Smithsonian Office of Anthropology. When transcribing Tlingit, Harrington indicated the lengths of the consonants and vowels (by double or single letters), a feature usually ignored by other linguists. He distinguished surds from sonants by indicating the aspirations of the former (i.e., kh or kkh for k, and k for g). Velar k (q) and velar g (g) he rendered by bold- faced letters: kh and k. Velar y (y was usually gamma (7) or velar gamma (7) , as indeed, I was often inclined to hear it. In using his notes, I have sometimes sub- stituted the more familiar q, g, and y for these last three velar sounds. Harrington makes a sharp distinction between the forward x and velar x, but I have omitted his special symbol for the first. It should be noted that Dr. Michael Krauss, Professor of Linguistics at the University of Alaska, is incorporating all of Harrington's Eyak material from Yakutat in his own definitive study of that language. In his own work the latter uses the accepted modern symbols, but in referring to the Eyak place names he sent me I have changed these to cor- respond to the system used here: for example, Krauss' c (my ts), s (my c), 6 (tc), X (tl), G (g),? (glottal stop,'), and -? (nasalization, n). Literal or accurate translations of native words and expressions I indicate by single quotes ('??'); free trans- lations or explanations offered by my informants, as well as other remarks in English, are indicated, by double quotation marks ("?"). The Land and its People 14 SMITHSONIAN CONTRIBUTIONS TO ANTHROPOLOGY VOLUME 7 IN THREE PARTS LAND AND ITS PEOPLE 15 INTRODUCTION TO YAKUTAT Yakutat, latitude 59?31' N., longitude 139?40' W., is a Tlingit community. This does not mean, however, that it should be taken as a typical Tlingit town, for indeed there is none. We are accustomed to think of the Tlingit as people forming one tribe, in the ethno- graphical sense, yet there are known differences among the various Tlingit groups which would make it wiser to recognize a number of tribes within the Tlingit nation. There are, in general, four major groups of Tlingit: Southern (coastal), Northern (coastal), Inland, and Gulf Coast. Yakutat is the only settlement now representing this last group. The character of each of these divisions is largely determined by its particular geographical and ecological environment, and their differences are reflected in their manner of life and habits of speech. In the minds of the natives, the dis- tinctions between the particular matrilineal sibs that make up these groups is of equal or greater importance, even though each community is of necessity composed of members of the two pan-Tlingit exogamous moieties, Raven and Wolf-Eagle. To identify the Yakutat people we must sketch the important features of their homeland in relation to the whole Tlingit world. The Tlingit World Southeastern Alaska, or the "panhandle," where may be found most of the Tlingit as well as the northern Haida (Kaigani) and the Tsimshian community of New Metlakatla, is, according to the Coast Pilot (vol. 8, 1962, p. 17) "a 30-mile-wide strip of mainland bordered by an 80-mile-wide compact chain of islands [Alexander Archipelago]. Most of the islands are mountainous, rough, and broken, and are covered with dense growths of spruce, hemlock, and cedar except on the higher summits. The mountains of the mainland are higher, less wooded, and usually snowcapped." In midsummer the snowline stands at 2,000-3,000 feet, with glaciers snaking down to tidewater. The coast line is intricate, measuring only 250 nautical miles along the ocean front, but convoluted and broken into a tidal shoreline of some 11,000 miles. There is little level land except at the mouths of streams. Rather, the land rises abruptly from the salt water and its steep slopes plunge below sea level to form the system of deep narrow channels, known as the Inside Passage, which extends over 1,000 miles from Cape Spencer to Puget Sound. Many native canoemen, watchful of tidal currents and kelp-covered reefs, have made lengthy voyages without the necessity of venturing into the open ocean. In this way the Tlingit have come to know their southern neighbors: the Tsimshian of the northern British Columbia mainland, the Haida of Queen Charlotte Islands, the Kwakiutl farther south, and the still more distant Coast Salish. From southeastern Alaska, access to the interior beyond the mountains is possible only along such rivers as the Stikine and Taku, or from the head of Lynn Canal in the northwest over the White, Chilkoot, and Chilkat Passes. These inland routes, or "grease trails," were formerly controlled by local Tlingit sibs who mo- nopolized the trade with the Athabaskan bands in the interior. Down these valleys in ancient days, according to Tlingit tradition, had come adventurous groups who lost their original identities and became Tlingit sibs. In reverse direction have also moved small groups of coastal Tlingit who went to find inland homes. In southern Yukon Territory, at the headwaters of the Yukon and Taku, live the Inland Tlingit, named for Lakes Teslin and Atlin, and the Tagish, their terri- tories protruding like a wedge between that of the Tahltan Athabaskans to the southest and that of the Southern Tutchone Athabaskans on the northwest. These Inland Tlingit live a life which is largely indis- tinguishable from that of their Athabaskan neighbors, based as it must be upon the hunting of moose and (formerly) caribou, trapping fur bearers to trade, and catching fish in inland lakes or at the headwaters of the rivers. The climate is continental, with great ex- tremes in temperature, but is much drier than on the coast. It is a harsh land, of scattered food resources and consequently of relatively small, wandering bands. Its wealth was in its furs. (See McClellan, 1953.) In southeastern Alaska, on the other hand, the cli- mate is "largely dominated by winds which have come off a part of the Pacific Ocean that has been warmed by the Japanese Current." On the mainland and inner islands it is more continental in character, and while there are considerable variations in temperature and precipitation in the more mountainous areas, in general "high humidity, fogs, heavy cloud cover, small tem- perature range, and abundant precipitation are char- acteristic of the maritime zone" {Coast Pilot 8, 1962, p. 18). If the land seems to have relatively little to offer, other than materials for manufactures including clothing, the sea and its shores are rich in food. Even the salmon caught in the streams have not long left the sea, and still retain their fine flavor and firm flesh. The region could probably have supported a larger aboriginal population than it is known to have possessed. 16 SMITHSONIAN CONTRIBUTIONS TO ANTHROPOLOGY VOLUME 7 Within the southern panhandle, we must recognize a distinction between the Northern and Southern Tlingit, the boundary being roughly marked by Fred- erick Sound and the southern reaches of Chatham Strait between Baranof and Kuiu Islands. South and east of this line live the Southern Tlingit: (from south to north) the Sanya (Cape Fox), Tongass, and Stikine (Wrangell) along the mainland and more sheltered waters; and the Henya (and Klawak), Kuiu, and Kake on the islands. The Northern Tlingit include the Sumdum, Taku, Auk, and Chilkat-Chilkoot along the mainland; and the Angoon, Sitka, and Hoonah of the outer islands and coasts. There are slight dif- ferences in pronunciation between the quick-speaking southerners and the more drawling, louder northerners. The former could get red cedar for canoe building and red cedar bark for mats and baskets, and they were naturally more influenced by the Tsimshian and Haida. In contrast, the northern groups were restricted to spruce wood (or yellow cedar and, sometimes, cottonwood) for canoes, and made decorated spruce root baskets. The mainland tribes in both divisions had closer contacts with the interior peoples, whom they used to visit regularly to procure furs, becoming skillful in handling canoes on swift rivers and trained to carry heavy packs over the passes. In contrast, those living on the more exposed coasts were of neces- sity seamen and hunters of sea mammals, even though their territories also offered many sheltered bays and lagoons. The Gulf Coast of Alaska When, however, one leaves the shelter of Cross Sound, running through the tidal rapids of Inian Pass and rounding Cape Spencer, one enters the open sea, stretching unbroken from Alaska to Antarctica. The Alaskan coast trends in a generally northwesterly direction to Ocean Cape at the mouth of Yakutat Bay, a distance of some 130 nautical miles from Cape Spencer, and westerly for an equal distance beyond this to Cape Saint Elias and Controller Bay. Along this great regular arc of the Gulf Coast there is no chain of sizable offshore islands, and the surf beats on exposed beaches. Beyond Controller Bay and the Copper River Delta, the coast again becomes irregular as one enters Prince William Sound, the home of the Chugach Eskimo, deadly enemies of the Yakutat people. About midway in this nearly unbroken 300- mile coastline, lies Yakutat Bay. To the southeast are only two significant indentations; Lituya Bay, 40 nautical miles northwest of Cape Spencer, and Dry Bay or the mud-filled delta of the Alsek River, some 40 nautical miles farther northwest. About 50 nautical miles west of Yakutat, a retreating arm of the Mala- spina-Bering icefield has only recently exposed Icy Bay. From here to Controller Bay, about 80 or 90 nautical miles beyond, there are only a few landing places where boats may be taken through, the breakers into the mouths of the larger streams. Local knowledge as well as skill is demanded in handling small craft if one is to navigate this shore, penetrate the tidal mudflats in the bays, or enter the shelter of streams and rivers. This is the Gulf Coast of Alaska, a ribbon of low- lying land between the open Pacific and the snow- capped mountams of the Fairweather, Saint Elias, and Chugach Ranges. Great icefields descend from these heights, in many areas joined and linked together to form great plateau or "through" glaciers (Tarr and Butler, 1909, p. 36) that are among the wonders of the world. These are "ice-flooded valleys," described by Russell (1892, p. 47) as "vast, smooth snow sur- faces without crevasses [that] stretched away to limitless distances, broken only by jagged angular mountain peaks." Vancouver (1801, vol. 5, pp. 358- 359) likened them to "a plain composed of a solid mass of ice or frozen snow," as if an inland sea had turned to ice. In many areas these "through" glaciers offered routes for early native travel and, later, for prospectors. The most important links are between Lituya Bay and the Alsek River, between Glacier Bay on Cross Sound and the upper Alsek, and between the Alsek and the head of Yakutat Bay. Farther west, the awesome piedmont lobes of the Malaspina and Bering Glaciers spread down from the mountains be- tween Yakutat Bay and Bering River on Controller Bay, reminding us of the continental ice sheets of the Pleistocene. This ice also served as a route between the coast and the Copper River valley. Some glaciers from the mountains or from interior fields still plunge into tidewater to discharge their bergs, despite the general retreat which they have suffered since first seen by White men almost 200 years ago. Others thrust their snouts into the turgid waters of the two great rivers, the Alsek and the Copper, that cut through the mountains to the sea. Most glaciers have shrunk back up into their valleys, leaving behind a desolate jumble of boulder-clay, and the giant Malaspina hides the greater part of its 80-mile long seaward margin under a forest-covered moraine. Below the curiously straight seaward face of the mountain arc, the land is narrow, perhaps only 15 miles wide at its maximum, and is, geologically speak- ing, new, formed by detritus brought down by the glacial streams, by the moraines abandoned by ice fronts that once reached the sea, or by formerly sub- merged beach deposits lifted above the waves. In many places the trees have not yet established them- 3 v^ti^; w Vfewc-?^ ^ ^ M ' % ^ MAP 2.?The Gulf Coast of Alaska. Redrawn by Richard A. Gould from U.S.G.S. Topographic series, "Alaska, Map B." IN THREE PARTS LAND AND ITS PEOPLE 17 selves on the grassy flats and swamplands, or grow only in narrow bands of dark forest along old moraines and beach ridges. Many lakes dot the flats or lie at the feet of the glaciers. Because so many streams enter the sea laden with silt and the ocean currents in general set northwestward along the shore, bars form at the stream mouths, often creating a maze of shallow tidal lagoons and estuaries behind the beach, and the streams may have to follow these for several miles westward before they can empty into the sea. The ocean far out in front of the major rivers is dis- colored with glacial silt. Changes in sea level that often accompany earthquakes, glacial advances and retreats even within the Christian Era, winter storms, and the never-ceasing deposition of the muddy burden of the streams continually modify the pattern of the shoreline. Because the foreshore is low, vessels standing pru- dently offshore may not descry it at all, but can mistake gaps in the mountains behind for broad bays leading inland, hence the confusion in "discovering" "Bering's Bay" or "Admiralty Bay" in various localities southeast of what we now call Yakutat Bay. Frequently the land is obscured by clouds and fog, the open Gulf lashed by rain or snowstorms, and seasick passengers (on those days when passenger steamers still crossed the Gulf) had no conception of the glory hidden from their eyes. Or, a rare miracle might sweep clear the sky, leaving only the dazzling white of the peaks and that clear blue seen only in Alaska, and the Pacific Ocean subside into the mirrorlike calm of a pond. I have been fortunate to see it so, when the Gulf was filled with small boats, tugs, ponderous piledrivers, and other unseaworthy craft, hastening at their best snail's pace to cross while the fair weather endured. It was in such weather that Malaspina came to Yakutat Bay and found it a land of enchantment; for Dixon and Colnett before him it was only "Foggy Harbour." Some of those ex- plorers or traders who came under less pleasant cir- cumstances have perhaps allowed foul weather to color all of their impressions of the country and its inhabitants. In my eyes, with the possible exception of Greenland, the Gulf Coast of Alaska is the most beautiful country in the world, and its native inhabitants also see it as beautiful, mentioning this among the principal attrac- tions leading to its settlement. But it is not an easy country in which to live. En- durance, skill, courage, and expert knowledge are de- manded for survival. The local natives and the voyagers who visited this region were perforce truly mariners, paddling almost out of sight of land to pursue the sea otter or sailing for days at a time on long trading voyages without a safe harbor. Only in Yakutat Bay can protection be sought in time of storm; other places 265-&17?72?vol. VII, pt. 1 1 grant shelter for boats already inside, but cannot be safely entered in rough weather. The region about Yakutat Bay and extending eastward to Dry Bay is also the only area extensive enough to support more than a sparse permanent population. On this narrow foreshore, behind the breakers and under the snowy pyramid of Mount Saint Elias, live the people who are the subject of this study. The Gulf Coast Tribes The story of Yakutat is in many respects that of the whole Gulf of Alaska from Cross Sound to the edge of Prince William Sound. This is not because the inhab- itants of this narrow coastal strip were alike in speech and culture, or had a common origin; indeed, they spoke at least three or four different languages, and traced their origins to different homelands. But they became united through trade, war, potlatches, and in- termarriage; and in the last chapters of their history, which is all that we at present can hope to recon- struct, they came to share a common destiny. The former settlements at Lituya Bay, at Dry Bay, on the rivers between Dry Bay and Yakutat, as well as those farther west at Icy Bay, at Cape Yakataga and Kaliakh River, at Controller Bay, and about the Copper River Delta, are now deserted. A few descendants of their former inhabitants may be found in Cordova, in Hoonah and Sitka, or in Juneau, but the greater number live today at Yakutat. Aside from a handful of persons at Cape Yakataga or at Katalla beyond Controller Bay, or perhaps for a few isolated trappers or prospectors at other spots, Yakutat is the only permanent community left on the whole Alaskan Gulf Coast, and it still retains cultural traces and traditions derived from the diverse tribes whose shattered remnants have mingled to form its present native population of 300 or less. The history of Yakutat begins in pre-Russian days with the migrations of interior tribes from behind the mountains to the coast, and from the mouth of the Copper River eastward along the shore. There was also the northwestward expansion of Tlingit from what the Yakutat people call "the Southeast of Alaska," some coming on foot along the shore or over the glacier high- ways, or going inland over the Chilkat Pass and down the Alsek River to Dry Bay, while others paddled their canoes up from Cross Sound or farther south. Then came White men in the late 18th century: Russian agents of the Shelikov Company commanding baidarka fleets of Aleuts, Koniags, and Chugach; and English, Spanish, and American traders and explorers. For 10 years the Russians attempted to maintain an agricultural colony and trading post at Yakutat, but this was destroyed by the natives in 1805. Then followed a period of relative 18 SMITHSONIAN CONTRIBUTIONS TO ANTHROPOLOGY VOLUME 7 isolation from Europeans, while Tlingit influences be- came firmly established all the way to Controller Bay. Before the middle of the century, smallpox wiped out the inhabitants of many settlements. Other disasters followed, and the population began to shrink back into the present settlements, moving back to southeastern Alaska or to Yakutat. The Yakutat-Icy Bay area remained one of the best sea otter hunting grounds in the final decades of the 19th century, and the Gulf Coast offered some of the richest commercial salmon fishing regions for the first decades of the 20th, so from about 1880 to 1920 Yaku- tat enjoyed prosperity. It was early in this period that traders came regularly, the Lutheran Evangelical Mission was established, various expeditions recruited porters in attempts to climb Mount Saint Elias, and goldminers for a short time were attracted to the black sands of the beaches. By the end of World War I, however, the salmon streams had been largely fished out, the sea otter, even though protected by law, could hardly be found, and hard times came. Soon there was no one living on all the coast southeast of Yakutat, except for a few White fox farmers or prospectors, although many abandoned regions are still visited in the fishing season. But perhaps the cruelest stroke of fate was the building of a large airfield 4 miles east of Yakutat and the quartering of some thousands of soldiers in the vicinity during World War II. Although a number of Yakutat men served with distinction during the war, we need not be surprised at the demor- alization which these changes brought. With the ending of wartime jobs, with the dwindling salmon runs which forced the closing of the cannery in which native women worked and for which the men fished, hard times returned again. Many young people now find that they must leave to seek a living elsewhere and old people live for their pension checks. Similar brief periods of prosperity, while salmon fishing or fur trapping were profitable, or while there was an oil boom in Controller Bay and the Copper River Railway was being built, were also enjoyed by the dwindling inhabitants of the western part of the Gulf Coast. Here the periods of ephemeral wealth, of disease and debauch, and of subsequent demoralization and decline had run their course early in the present century. If we could go back to the latter part of the 18th century, we should find the Gulf Coast Indians divided into several groups, of which the following were the main divisions: The people of the Lituya Bay region, including the coast from Cape Spencer to Cape Fairweather, a dis- tance of 54 nautical miles. This territory recently has been the hunting and fishing grounds of the Hoonah Tlingit, whose most important settlements, however, have always been in southeastern Alaska proper, on both sides of Cross Sound, including Glacier Bay and the north shore of Chichagof Island. Certainly the Lituya Bay region is now claimed by Hoonah sibs, but we cannot assume that this was so in the 18 th century, since the Yakutat people also go to Lituya, and received some of the Lituya people at the time when most emigrated from this region to Hoonah and Sitka about 100 years ago. The Dry Bay people, at the mouth of the Alsek River and the nearby streams, the most important of which was the Akwe River just to the northwest. Their ter- ritory may be defined as running from Cape Fair- weather to the Akwe, a distance of about 50-odd miles along the shore, and running back above the glaciers that nearly block the Alsek River. The original inhabit- ants were Athabaskans, apparently related to the Southern Tutchone on the headwaters of the Alsek, but became mixed with Tlingit who had come from Chilkat via the interior and from the southeastern coast. The Yakutat Bay people, including those on the coastal plain from the Italio River, 25 miles to the southeast. Their territory also embraced Icy Bay and its western shore, some 65 miles west of Yakutat. This area, as we shall see, once had an autochthonous population, originally Eyak or perhaps Dry Bay Athabaskan, but in prehistoric times submerged by Eyak from the coast to the westward mixed with a migration of Atna Athabaskans from the middle Copper River. Later, it became Tlingit because of the migrations from southeastern Alaska and the Dry Bay area. The Eyak-speaking people of the coast just west of Icy Bay to Cape Martin at the eastern edge of the Copper River delta. Their main settlements seem to have been at Cape Yakataga, Kaliakh River, and Bering River in Controller Bay. In the 18th century, however, Controller Bay was claimed and was certainly frequented by a branch of the Chugach Eskimo of Prince William Sound. The Chugach were apparently intruders into Controller Bay and its islands, but when they first began to occupy it, and whether they ever established more than seasonal hunting camps, we do not know. At any event, they were driven back at the end of the 18th century by the Tlingitized Eyak from farther east. The Eyak of the Copper River delta and of Cordova just within Prince William Sound (Birket-Smith and de Laguna, 1938). No pronounced differences distinguished the last from their Indian neighbors at Cape Martin, although there was a sharp linguistic and a somewhat less clearly marked cultural boundary between the Eyak and the Chugach. The Copper River Eyak (or the handful who IN THREE PARTS LAND AND ITS PEOPLE 19 live or lived until recently at Cordova) appeared more distinct when Dr. Birket-Smith and I studied them in 1933 than they would have even in 1900, largely because of the depopulation of the coast east of them, and also because they preserved into the present cen- tury the Eyak language once spoken along the coast as far as the Ahrnklin or Italio Rivers beyond Yakutat Bay. However, the intrusion of the Eskimo into Controller Bay as well as difficulties of communication may explain why there were two dialects of Eyak: "Ugalentz" (Copper River Eyak-proper) and Yakutat. As reported by Erman (1849, p. 126), based on Veni- aminov: "Die Jakutat-Sprache spricht man am Jakutat und weiter westlich. Sie zerfallt in zwei Dialekte: den Jakutatisehen und den Ugalenschen. Seelenzahl: nicht iiber 300." Dr. Michael E. Krauss in recent letters (December 20, 27, 1966, and January 9, 1967) has questioned my interpretation of this passage and a similar one in Radlov (Radloff, 1859, pp. 468-469). According to Radlov: "Weniaminov endlisch lasst in seiner Einthei- lung der Sprache des russischen Amerikas [Zamecha- niya . . .] die Sprache von Jakutat in zwei Mundarten zerfallen, in das eigentliche Jakutat und in das Ugalen- zische." Krauss translated the original Russian passage in the Zamechaniya (1846, p. 7) as: "The Yakutat language is spoken by the inhabitatants of Yakutat and further west. It is divided into two dialects: Yaku- tat and Ugalents; the number of speakers of both dialects [taken together ?] is not more than 300 souls." Dr. Krauss interprets this to mean that "the Yakutat language" was Tlingit, while "Ugalenz" or Eyak was the second language spoken at Yakutat. He further points out that Veniaminov seems to have had no firsthand knowledge of Eyak (already largely obsolete at Yakutat in his day), and probably none of the Tlingit which had replaced it at Yakutat. Although he is still working on this problem and has not yet come to a definite conclusion, his study of early Eyak word- lists has failed to reveal evidence of dialectical differ- ences within that language, even though he believes it more likely than not that one of these vocabularies (RezanoVs) comes from Yakutat. While the linguistic evidence which originally sug- gested to me that there might be two dialects of Eyak (Birket-Smith and de Laguna, 1938, p. 535) was evi- dently quite inadequate, I find it difficult to interpret "the Yakutat language" of Veniaminov, Radlov and Erman as Tlingit, a Tlingit so different from that of Sitka that it rated as a separate dialect. However, the statement is not clear, and these writers may have been overly impressed by very slight differences hi speech between the Tlingit spoken at Yakutat and at Sitka (cf. Swanton, 1909, p. 347 n.). However, if we are to understand the phrase not as "the Yakutat language," but as "that which is spoken at Yakutat," then we can follow Dr. Krauss' interpretation of the passage. Only an adequate knowledge of the Eyak formerly spoken at Yakutat can resolve the problem of how much or how little it may have exhibited local peculiarities. I would further believe that 300 was a fairly correct figure for the inhabitants of the Yakutat Bay area alone, and that the Eyak-speakers farther west once equalled or almost equalled that number. The figures given may, however, reflect the terrible smallpox epidemic of 1838^0 (p. 177), and so apply to the whole Gulf Coast from Yakutat to Copper River. Dr. Krauss also indicates to me his belief that the proportion of Chugach, Eyak and Tlingit place names (see pp. 102-106) suggest that a center of Eyak settle- ment was on the mainland of Controller Bay, with fewer and smaller sites on the coast to the west. The Eyak probably remained on the mainland shores of Con- troller Bay while the Chugach frequented the islands. He further suggests that it was probably somewhat be- fore the Chugach had been driven westward by the Tlingit or Tlingitized Eyak of the mainland that the Eyak were able to consolidate their hold on the Copper River delta. In the recent past, at least hi the 19 th century, the Copper River Eyak formed merely a fifth unit in the chain of peoples who intermarried, visited each other for purposes of trade, or who entertained each other at potlatches, and who felt themselves to be interrelated, even though the eastern tribes had adopted Tlingit speech and more of Tlingit ways. This process of becoming Tlingit was already far advanced at Dry Bay and Yakutat by the late 18th century, according to native traditions and the reports of explorers. Even a century later, however, we should have found people at Kaliakh River and Controller Bay who still spoke Eyak, and individuals in all communities from Dry Bay to Cordova were apt to be either bilingual from childhood, or prided themselves on a knowledge of foreign languages acquired during then- travels. These five divisions of Gulf Coast tribes have been outlined mainly according to the understanding of Yakutat informants. We should not think, however, of these five areas as tribally owned territories, nor of their occupants as "tribes" in the sense of cohesive social or organized political units. Rather, the real units of Tlingit society are the matrilineal sibs (na). It is their localized, intermarrying branches which make up the geographical communities which we call "tribes" (qwan). (See McClellan, 1954, pp. 76-77; de Laguna, 1952, pp. 1-4.) The five regions enumerated above comprise, therefore, the traditional territories (or blocks of contiguous lands) that belong to certain of the matrilineal sibs that compose the five groups. While I later attempt to define these Gulf Coast sibs more 20 SMITHSONIAN CONTRIBUTIONS TO ANTHROPOLOGY VOLUME 7 precisely and to trace more accurately the boundaries of sib lands, it may be helpful now simply to list the sibs which are acknowledged to have established resi- dence in the five major regions by building named houses in the settlements, or who are considered as autochthonous. Sibs claiming territorial rights in each area are indicated by asterisks (*). In the Dry Bay area, the TlukwaxAdi and the Kosliedi(?) were the original Athabaskan occupants; the other sibs are Tlingit from southeastern Alaska. The original residents of the Yakutat area were evi- dently Eyak-speakers. From southeastern Alaska, via Dry Bay, came the later residents, except for the Kwac]sqwan who were Atna Athabaskans from the Copper River, and the Qaiyix-Kagwantan who were Eyak-speakers of the western Gulf Coast. Area Raven Moiety Wolf-Eagle Moiety LituyaBay Tl'uknaxAdi TcukAnedi(?) (Cape Spencer to Cape Fairweather) Later divided into ^atkA'ayi and CAnkuqedi(?) DAqdentan* Dry Bay TlukwaxAdi* CANkuqedi * (Cape Fairweather to Akwe River) Tl'uknaxAdi* Kagwantan Koskedi(?) Yakutat Earlier residents and owners (Italio River to Dry Bay) Hinyedi YEnyedi Kosledi L'u?edi StaxAdi Tlaxayik-Teqwedi "GanAxtedi"(?) or "GanAXAdi"(?) Later residents Kwackqwan* Teqwedi* Tl'uknaxAdi CAnkuqedi TlukwaxAdi Galyix-Kagwantan Controller Bay "GanAxtedi" Galyix-Kagwantan* (Cape Yakataga to Cape Martin) Kwackqwan Tcicqedi* Copper River Delta "GanAXAdi" Tcicqedi* (See Birket-Smith and de Laguna, "Koskedi" or (Possibly others) 1938) Qus&edi* TlukwaxAdi Thus, the composition of these populations has shifted so that, in the distant past before the known migrations had occurred, the major regional divisions may have been different. Since, however, these areas correspond roughly to the geographical and physio- graphic districts on the Gulf Coast, it will be useful to refer to them. Our interest will obviously center at Yakutat, and our information will be largely derived from persons born there or in the vicinity. Traditions about Lituya Bay could perhaps be best studied now at Hoonah, since the present owning sib lives at Hoonah. I shall, however, make use of the excellent observations of LaPe'rouse at Lituya Bay in 1786, especially since the people that he met may be taken as typical of the Tlingit groups that were moving westward. Of the populations once living between Icy Bay and Cape Martin, I have less knowledge, and I have never visited their country. An informant who was born either at Katalla or Cordova in 1892 hazarded that there were still about 15 natives living at Cape Yaka- taga and at Katalla, but he had not visited these villages for many years. The Copper River Eyak have been described, and at this time it is possible to add only a few notes to the account published by Birket- Smith and myself in 1938. Even in the past, when the scattered settlements along the Gulf Coast were occupied, the Yakutat and their neighbors were relatively isolated from the Tlingit of southeastern Alaska. This isolation is shown in the character of their Tlingit idiom, recognized both by the linguist (Swanton, 1909, note to Tale 105, p. 347) and by the Yakutat themselves. The Dry Bay people, they say, speak more like the panhandle Tlingit, which I can verify, obviously due to the settlement of immigrants from southeastern Alaska IN THREE PARTS LAKD AND ITS PEOPLE 21 earlier in this area than at Yakutat. There are also peculiarities of Yakutat culture due to the particular limitations and advantages of the terrain, to the heritage of the past, and to contacts with the Atha- baskans and the Chugach. The Yakutat became tire- less walkers, and skillful hunters of mountain goats, as well as adroit sealers among the icefloes. In hunting the sea otter on the open sea they utilized much of the specialized equipment and techniques of the Chugach. Access to native copper made them wealthy, then- women were noted as skilled basketmakers, and they felt that they lived in a beautiful and bountiful land. ECOLOGY OF THE YAKUTAT BAY AREA To understand the customs and history of any people we must study the environment in which they live and which has helped to shape their destinies. We must try to see it not only in the impersonal, accurately scientific terms of the geographer, geologist, zoologist, and meteorologist, but also attempt to capture, if we can, something of what the country means to its inhabitants, because its role in determining their lives has been mediated by what they understand it to be and by what they have made of it. The environment is not for the Tlingit simply the land and sea with natural resources to be exploited. It is, as we shall see, much more a community of living beings, where the lines which we would draw between man and beast or between the animate and the inanimate are blurred or do not exist. The Tlingit shares his world with his nonhuman relatives and fellow creatures just as he shares it with other tribes. Geography and Geology Yakutat Bay is a great arm of the sea that cuts in a northerly or northeasterly direction through the low forelands and foothills to the very foot of the Saint Elias Range. The foothills are low mountains, between 3,000 and 5,000 feet high, with a few peaks of slightly greater elevation. Immediately behind them tower the true giants. Visible from Yakutat Bay and marking the International Boundary are Mount Seattle (10,000), Mount Hubbard (15,000), Mount Vancouver (15,700), and Mount Cook (13,700), as well as many others. Dominating these from the western end of the mountain wall is the great pyramid of Mount Saint Elias, just over 18,000 feet high, "one of the most imposing moun- tain peaks in the world" (Tarr and Butler, 1909, p. 12). Mount Logan behind it in Canada actually rises to 19,850 feet, and is the second highest mountain in North America, surpassed only by Mount McKinley, but it is less impressive from Yakutat because it is farther away. To the southeast, also on the Alaska- Canada boundary, is Mount Fairweather, 15,320 feet high, visible from the open flats just east of the town of Yakutat, but not from the bay itself. The "heart" of Yakutat Bay, as the natives call it, is blocked by extensive glaciers descending from the high mountains: Turner or "First" Glacier on the west, and the huge Hubbard or "Second" Glacier on the north and northeast. Here, about 32 nautical or 37 statute miles from its mouth, the bay turns sharply east and south, and cuts back again through the foothill mountains and into the coastal plain, reaching to within 12 or 15 miles of the sea. Several names have been applied to the various parts of the bay. Thus, "Yakutat Bay," used in a narrow sense, refers to the lower, wider part below Point Latouche, about 23 nautical miles above the mouth. Above this to the glacier walls lies Disenchant- ment Bay. From this, the great arm stretching south and roughly parallel to Yakutat Bay is Russell Fiord, about 30 nautical or 34.5 statute miles long. From about midway along it, Nunatak Fiord branches out to the east for a distance of some 8 or 9 miles, to end at the now rapidly retreating face of Nunatak or "Third" Glacier. The very head of Russell Fiord, known locally as Mud Bay, is only 13 or 14 statute miles by air from Yakutat, although it is 75 statute or over 65 nautical miles by water. Between Ocean Cape on the southeast and Point Manby on the northwest, the mouth of Yakutat Bay is 15 nautical miles wide, and as far up as Knight Island the shores are approximately parallel. Here they begin to converge, so that at Blizhni Point, some 15 nautical miles above Point Manby, the bay has narrowed to a width of 7 miles, and at Point Latouche on the east, where it merges with Disenchantment Bay, it is less than 3 miles wide. From Point Manby up to just below Bancas Point, the western shore of the bay is all lowland, composed of moraines and of the outwash plain of the Malaspina Glacier and its smaller relatives. A number of streams 22 SMITHSONIAN CONTRIBUTIONS TO ANTHROPOLOGY VOLUME 7 FIGURE 1.?Mount Saint Blias N. by W. 43 miles. (After Dall, 1874, in Dall and Baker, 1883.) drain these icefields, the largest of which are the Manby, Oscar, Kame, and Kwik. These bring down so much sediment that the coastline is rapidly growing outward. "It is a remarkably straight coast, with long, offshore bars, bluntly cusp shaped opposite the stream mouths and inclosing lagoons with shallow openings, difficult to enter by boat because of the surf which constantly beats on this coast" (Tarr and Butler, 1909, p. 13). Blizhni Point is actually on the bar at the mouth of Kwik Stream. At the northern end of this sandy, gravelly lowland, the mountains come down to the sea to form the rocky sides of Bancas Point which marks the west- ern side of the entrance to Disenchantment Bay. There is more diversity of terrain along the eastern shore of the bay, which falls into two divisions of almost equal length: the foreland, and the mountainous penin- sula. "The foreland section, nowhere rising more than 250 feet above sea level, is low and timber covered, the dense Alaskan forest of spruce and hemlock descending to the very sea. This part of the coastline is exceedingly irregular and is faced by a series of islands, the largest two of which are Khantaak, the southernmost, and Knight Island, the northernmost" vTarr and Butler, 1909, p. 14). Between the south end of Khantaak Island and the westward-jutting Phipps Peninsula at the southeastern corner of Yakutat Bay, Monti Bay leads into the site of the present town of Yakutat, to the Ankau lagoons that drain Phipps Peninsula, and to the channels that run northeastward behind Khantaak Island (Yakutat Roads and Johnstone Passage), as well as to many smaller passes, and to the famous harbors of Port Mulgrave and Rurik Harbor on Khantaak Island and Puget Cove on the mainland. "This archipelago of islands and reefs gives rise to an intricate maze of narrow straits and broad, lake-like expansions, protected from the ocean surf that elsewhere beats incessantly on the shores of Yakutat Bay" (Tarr and Butler, 1909, p. 14). These islands and the adj acent mainland as far north as Eleanor Cove near Knight Island are formed of morainic deposits, left by the great glacier which once filled Yakutat Bay to its mouth. Along part of the shore the waves have cut this into gravel bluffs, notably at the town of Yakutat and at other places on Monti Bay. On both the islands and the mainland foreshore there are many lakes and ponds in kettleholes; the water supply for Yakutat comes from such a source. Reefs and boulders along the beaches are not outcroppings of bed- rock, despite the size of some of the stones, but are simply rocks left behind by the glacier. Apparently no one has lived on the smaller islands, probably because of lack of fresh water, although the natives might camp there when getting herring, clams, or crabs. It is easy to see that all this shore was elevated a few feet by the earthquake of 1898, because all the island and mainland shores are fringed with raised beaches on which only brush and young trees are growing. In contrast to the lowland section, the northern part of the east coast above Eleanor Cove is rocky and relatively straight, except for small flats at the IN THREE PARTS LAND AND ITS PEOPLE 23 >\ Mfc. Fairweather bearing ENE, distant 24 miles FIGURE 2.?Mount Fairweather, sketched by W. H. Dall in 1874. mouths of the larger streams. "There are no harbors, and, above Knight Island, no landing places except at times of greatest calm" (Tarr and Butler, 1909, p. 14). The mountains rise steeply from the water, reaching elevations of 3,000-4,000 feet in a few miles. The most conspicuous peaks on this peninsula between Yakutat Bay and Russell Fiord are Mount Tebenkof, Mount Hoorts (i.e., 'brown bear,' xuts), and Mount Hendrickson (for the missionary), as well as unnamed peaks. On their slopes are a few small glaciers, since the permanent snowline is at 3,000 feet. From these icefields, streams drain into Yakutat Bay, Disenchant- ment Bay, and Russell Fiord. "This eastern, moun- tainous shore of Yakutat Bay, with truncated spurs, has distinctly the appearance of fault origin, as in- dicated by Russell" (Tarr and Butler, 1909, p. 14). Similar mountains, over 5,000 feet high, face Mount Tebenkof from the eastern side of Russell Fiord, among these being Mount Pinta (for the U.S. revenue cutter), Mount Ruhamah (for Miss Scidmore), and Mount Unana. Close to the eastern side of Disenchantment Bay lies the rounded, ice-scoured knob of Haenke Island, rising 250 feet above sea level. It marks the entrance to the true "heart" of Yakutat Bay. The much smaller Osier Island stands at the point between Disenchantment Bay and Russell Fiord. Except for the shallow expanded head of Russell Fiord, "Mud Bay" south of Cape Stoss and Beasley Creek, all of Russell and Nunatak Fiords are deep, narrow canyons cut between rocky walls. From Seal Bay, just south of Nunatak Fiord, up into Disenchant- ment Bay, the eastern and northern side is formed by flanks of the Saint Elias Range. As one might judge from some of the passages quoted above, canoe travel and landing were not easy in all parts of Yakutat Bay. Thus, it is natural that most camps and settlements should be located in the more protected southeastern portion, and that today even sturdy gasboats bound up the bay should keep to the channels behind the islands as long as possible, for ocean swells are apt to be felt between Knight Island and Point Latouche. During storms, Eleanor Cove may be lashed white, and two small boats with several men were lost recently in this area, one in attempting a landing on the coast above Knight Island, and another within yards of its southern shore. Although more quiet water is usually found within Disenchantment Bay, the south shore of Haenke Island is sometimes pounded by waves. Here, however, the principal danger to navigation comes from the masses of ice that continually fall from the glaciers with rolling thunder like an artillery barrage. Not only does ice frequently block progress by boat above Haenke Island, especially in spring and early summer, but even when winds have cleared a passage along the eastern shore, there is danger from the waves thrown up by calving bergs. "In place of ocean surf are waves formed by the discharge of icebergs from the cliffs of Hubbard and Turner glaciers, and the waves thus generated break all along the shore of Disenchantment Bay, but with special intensity near its head. From Haenke Island to Osier Island iceberg waves are almost constantly breaking upon the shore" (Tarr and Butler, 1909, p. 16). The west shore of Yakutat Bay is particularly exposed for, in addition to the usual surf, the ebb 24 SMITHSONIAN CONTRIBUTIONS TO ANTHROPOLOGY VOLUME 7 tide which follows the western shore carries down a procession of bergs "forming a barrier of drifting ice . . . which interferes with navigation as far as Blizhni Point" (Tarr and Bulter, 1909, p. 15). In June I have also seen ice cakes floating down on the east side as far as Knight Island, and "occasional drifts find their way as far south as Ocean Cape and Point Manby" (Coast Pilot 9, 1955, p. 87). However, it is among the icefloes in Disenchantment Bay that the harbor seals bear and rear their young, an important source of food and skins for the Yakutat people. This varied terrain along the shores of Yakutat Bay reflects, of course, the complexities of the under- lying geological structure. It is important to know something about this, not simply because it deter- mines the patterns of the landscape, but because it affects the kinds of rocks made available for tool materials. In addition to the gravels, silts, and boulder- clays of the lowlands, the hard rocks of the upper part of Yakutat Bay fall into four groups. The following brief summary of their characters is based upon Tarr and Butler (1909). The most southern formations, composing the rocky peninsula between Yakutat Bay and Russell Fiord, have been called the "Yakutat group," prob- ably of Mesozoic age. These are the bedrocks of the northern part of Yakutat Bay, not only on the eastern side from Eleanor Cove to Osier Island, but also on the western shore, stretching inland northwestward from Bancas Point. They occur all along the western side of Russell Fiord and on its eastern shore below Seal Bay. These are composed of conglomerates, graywacke, sandstone, shales, and limestone, very much folded and faulted. The sandstone would, of course, be useful for whetstones and the limestone for lamps, while hard cobbles eroded from the con- glomerates could be used as hammerstones. Otherwise, these rocks seem to offer little to the native crafts- man. In a few places, however, one near the shore a short distance above Point Latouche and another on Russell Fiord about a mile south of Cape Enchant- ment (opposite Nunatak Fiord), the limestone contains blue, green, and black flint. The formations of the Yakutat group rest uncon- formably upon what have been designated as "base- ment crystalline rocks," mainly greenstone and mar- ble, and probably at least of Paleozoic age. The latter are obviously of far more value, greenstone being the best material for adz blades, and marble superior to limestone. These rocks are to be found largely along the western shore of Russell Fiord between its junction with Disenchantment Bay at Osier Island to just south of Cape Enchantment. In a few spots on the slopes of Amphitheater Knob, above Esker Creek near Bancas Point, there are younger rocks, perhaps Pliocene in age, to judge by the fossil leaves which they contain. These consist of crossbedded sandstones, shales, clays, and lignite.' The white clays were used for paint, the fine-grained shales for whetstones, and the coal for beads. Our informants also reported lignite on the mountainside above Eleanor Cove. These Tertiary beds are separated from the older Yakutat formation by a fault along which there was pronounced movement during the earthquake of 1899. A much greater fault runs down the axis of the northern part of Russell Fiord, and has been traced from Hidden Glacier on Seal Bay, across the mouth of Nunatak Fiord, in a northwesterly direction towards Hubbard Glacier. An extension of this line to the southeast would run directly along the T-shaped head of Lituya Bay, where a severe earthquake occurred in the summer of 1958. North and east of this fault, the shores of Nunatak Fiord and the eastern side of Russell Fiord from Seal Bay to Hubbard Glacier are composed of ancient metamorphic and crystalline rocks. These include slate beds, with a "remarkably perfect" cleavage, so that "the rock splits like a roofing slate" (Tarr and Butler, 1909, p. 149), obviously an ideal material for blades. There are also hornblende gneisses and schists, quartz veins, metamorphosed conglomer- ates and sandstones, and granite dikes. Some of the glaciers carry these and many other metamorphosed materials, a number of which were evidently sought by the Yakutat Indians for manufactures. It should be noted that aside from what could be found in morainic deposits, all of the better tool materials were to be obtained in situ only in the northern part of the bay, in areas repeatedly blocked oft' by glacial advances. Tlingit vocabulary reflects geographical and geolo- gical features probably much more fully than my records indicate, since no very systematic attempt was made to obtain a comprehensive list. In addition, there are a number of locative nouns or expressions (Boas, 1917, pp. 103-111) that refer to such features as downstream, downhill, to the beach, towards the sea, inland, upriver, on the summit, and so forth. Many of these appear in place names- Geological Changes One must not suppose that the topography of the Yakutat Bay area has always been as it is now. In 1 Dr. George Plafker informs me that these coal-bearing rocks are most probably the stratigraphic equivalent of the Kulthieth Formation farther -west, and are probably of Eocene age. IN THREE PARTS LAND AND ITS PEOPLE 25 Nby E " NE byN"" " KE by E Lituya Mt. FIGURE 3.?Lituya Bay, sketched by W. H. Dall in 1874. fact, what is striking is the magnitude and recency of the changes which have occurred in this region and which must have profoundly affected the lives of the aboriginal population. I have already summar- ized (de Laguna et al, 1964, pp. 15-20) the conclusions of a number of geologists who have studied these phenomena, but it seems advisable to discuss them more fully so that the geological evidence may be compared with native traditions and observations (see pp. 286-288). In the Middle Ages a huge glacier filled Yakutat Bay, its terminal moraine forming a narrow submarine ridge which curves between Ocean Cape and Point Manby, and where today there are depths of only 8%-16 fathoms. "During very heavy weather," warns the Coast Pilot (vol. 9, 1955, p. 86), "it has been ob- served that breakers or pronounced increase in height of swell occur across the entire entrance to Yakutat Bay; at such times entrance is dangerous." This mass of ice may he thought of as an enormously enlarged Hubbard Glacier, to which all the minor glaciers of Yakutat Bay added their contributions. As already mentioned, its lateral moraines may be traced along the west shore as far up as Blizhni Point, and on the east from Ocean Cape to Eleanor Cove. Many white boulders of granite and marble, of the same kinds of rocks that outcrop in Disenchantment Bay and Russell Fiord were evidently carried south by the ice, and today can be found along the beaches from above Knight Island to Yakutat (Tarr and Butler, 1909, p. 100). Moraines and ice-worn marks high on the mountainsides and the ice-scoured depths of the bottom off Point Latouche indicate that this glacier must have had a maximum thickness of 3,000 feet (Tarr and Butler, 1909, p. 102). The great Malaspina was also expanded, reaching the sea from Icy Cape, west of Icy Bay, to Point Manby where it joined the Yakutat Bay Glacier, forming a continuous wall of ice along the sea for a distance of 75 statute miles or more. Its weight thrust the Yakutat Bay Glacier against the eastern side of the bay, piling up morainic deposits upon the lowland below Knight Island (Tarr and Butler, 1909, p. 108). Farther east, another glacier rilled Russell Fiord, its expanded snout protruding beyond the confines of the narrow canyon onto the lowland where it scoured out the basin now filled by Mud Bay. Between this and Yakutat Bay, other minor icefields descended a short distance onto the foreland, but the low terrain was un- glaciated except for a fringe along the eastern shore of Yakutat Bay and along the southern face of the foot- hill range facing the sea. Moraines extend inland about 3 or 4 miles near Eleanor Cove and about 1 mile at Yakutat. Their hummocky irregular surface supports the dense forest, but as one goes eastward the land becomes smooth and the forest is left behind. The airfield, some 4 miles southeast of Yakutat, belongs to another world that, open and almost treeless, stretches to Dry Bay and affords a splendid view of Mount Fan-weather beyond. "This plain is made of gravel and sand, becoming steadily finer toward the Situk [River, about 9 miles east of Yakutat], evidently a perfect example of an outwash plain grading into the moraine of the Yakutat Bay Glacier. It is so level that streams flow across it with sluggish current, and its surface is too damp for tree growth except in small insular patches on slightly higher ground. This outwash gravel plain . . . is ap- parently the dominant feature in the Yakutat foreland" (Tarr and Butler 1909. p. 97). 26 SMITHSONIAN CONTRIBUTIONS TO ANTHROPOLOGY VOLUME 7 140' fa ^ %p-- ?*"" Position of Ice fronts, dashed where inferred ...---Inferred former codst line ..-?.,... Present coast line MALASfilNA GLACIER * " * r * * x ***{ ??** i / p MAP 3.?Position of ice fronts and coast line at the culmination of the older advance, between A.D. 600 and 1290. a, Wood in end moraine dated A.D. 756?160. 6, Wood in end moraine dated A.D. 1127?160. (Plafker and Miller, 1957.) The two small lakes at the present head of Situk River seem to lie within the terminal moraines of the glaciers that flowed down Mount Tebenkof. A short distance below the larger, rounder lake, which Tarr calls Miller Lake ("Situk Lake" of the natives and of the most recent charts), the outwash plain begins. Sometime before A.D. 1400, judging by the age of living trees at Yakutat, these great glaciers began to retreat, receding far behind their present fronts, which permitted the growth of forests that were later either overridden or isolated by a second glacial advance (Plafker and Miller, 1958). Some of these forested areas were in the Icy Bay region, above the present front of Guyot Glacier (the arm of the Malaspina on the west side of Icy Bay), others were 5 miles north of Point Manby, and on gravel ridges along Esker Stream and along the nunataks (isolated rocky hills within the ice) that stretch northwestward to Floral Hills and Blossom Island, 15 miles from the bay. "Huge spruce logs, far larger in size than anything now growing in that vicinity, occur plentifully in these gravels" northwest of Bancas Point (Tarr and Butler, 1909, p. 131). Evidently the mature spruce trees still growing on the northern slope of Blossom Island, as well as scattered stands on the Floral Hills, Terrace Point, and Amphitheater Knob close to Bancas Point, are the remnants of great forests, all but destroyed by the later glacial advance. Today, the modern forest is spreading up into Disenchantment Bay to join them. During the recession, forests also clothed the now barren sides of Russell Fiord, for wood has been found below glacial gravels just southeast of Osier Island Position of ice fronts dashed where in- ferred Inferred former coast line MAP 4.?Position of ice fronts and coast line at the culmination of the younger advance, between A.D. 1700 and 1791. (Plafker and Miller, 1957.) (Tarr and Butler, 1909, p. 130, fig. 10). "On the beach near the very head of Russell Fiord [Mud Bay], as pointed out by Russell [1892, p. 89], and on other beaches near by, a submerged forest proves that there was a forested land area fringing the mountain front before the deposition of these moraines and the sub- sidence that has since occurred in this region" (Tarr and Butler, 1909, p. 99). Some of the stumps were still standing in 1906. The glacial recession which permitted this forest growth is probably associated with similar retreats in other parts of the Saint Elias and Fairweather Ranges, witness the "resurrected forest" of sheared-off stumps uncovered by the retreat of the Muir Glacier in Glacier Bay (Fernow, 1902, pi. opp. p. 250). The retreat of the ice in Yakutat Bay seems to have oc- curred in stages, for Tarr (Tarr and Butler, 1909, p. 99) cites a morainic terrace, 150-200 feet above sea level on the mainland near Knight Island, as evidence of a pause in the recession. According to native historical tradition, the ancestors of the Kwackqwan, coming from the Copper River, crossed to the east side of Yakutat Bay on the ice which then extended from Point Manby to the vicinity of Eleanor Cove, even though the ice was then already beginning to melt back because they had killed a dog and thrown it down a crevasse. (See p. 239). Perhaps this was during the same recessional stage as that inferred by Tarr {in Tarr and Butler, 1909). After the ice had retreated, some settlements were established which tradition reports were later over- whelmed by a second advance. One of these was in Icy IN THREE PARTS LAND AND ITS PEOPLE 27 4 0 ' 20 ' marking recent great advance (?) MAP 5.?Hypothetical former extension of glaciers during ice-flood stage, based on observations of the height reached by the glaciers at a number of points. (Tarr and Butler, 1909, fig. 9.) Bay (Topham, 1889 a, pp. 432-433; 1899 b, p. 350, cited on pp. 286-287), and another was somewhere on the coast south of Dry Bay, where the Kagwantan had built Shadow House with wealth obtained by trading with the Dry Bay Athabaskans (Swanton, 1909, Tale 104, pp. 335-338,). The second advance of the glaciers culminated in the 18th century. Since presumably the Icy Bay, Mala- spina, Yakutat Bay, and Kussell Fiord Glaciers ad- vanced at about the same time, a date of less than 300 years may apply to their growth. This date is indicated by carbon-14 analyses of trees destroyed by the Mala- spina, as well as by the age of living trees on its moraine (Plafker and Miller, 1958). Icy Bay was again covered with ice, but the Malaspina Glacier itself did not advance much beyond its present limit. The Yakutat Bay Glacier (i.e., Hubbard, Turner, and other glaciers in Disenchantment Bay) apparently advanced as far as Blizhni Point, where a submarine ridge represents the terminal moraine. Glaciers in Russell Fiord were again swollen. Nunatak Glacier, for example, not only filled its own narrow canyon but extended out into Russell Fiord, one arm moving northwestward to Disenchant- ment Bay, the other joined Hidden Glacier and other 28 SMITHSONIAN CONTRIBUTIONS TO ANTHROPOLOGY VOLUME 7 smaller icefields and turned southward, overriding the morainic gravels left by the previous advance to a height of 500 feet above sea level, and crushing the extensive forests that grew on the old moraine. Farther south, Fourth Glacier, now a shrunken remnant far up Beasley Creek, was also part of the ice mass in Russell Fiord and extended across to Cape Stoss on the west, damming up a fresh-water lake in Mud Bay. Beach gravels and old wave-cut terraces up to 115 or 140 feet above sea level surround the edge of this former lake, which then drained south into the Situk River. In the lake wTaters were carried logs from the forests destroyed by the glacier, to be eventually deposited in the beach gravels. The moraine left by the earlier advance lies outside the lake beach and now supports a mature spruce forest, while slowly advancing across it towards the present water's edge is a new growth of alders, willows, and cottonwoods (Tarr and Butler, 1909, pp. 133-134). These glaciers were again already in retreat by the latter part of the 18th century, for Malaspina (1885, p. 163) on July 2, 1791, was, as we know, blocked by ice at Haenke Island, and Lieutenant Puget of Van- couver's expedition in July, 1794, was also stopped here. The latter noted, however, that "at the back of the ice a small inlet" extended to the northeast about a league, presumably between Haenke Island and the mainland (Vancouver, 1801, vol. 5, p. 389; Tarr and ButJer, 1909, pp. 21-22), and one of Malas- pina's sailors, according to Suria (Wagner, 1936, p. 251), also claims to have seen a "river" of open water in what would appear to have been Russell Fiord, some distance above the line of ice. It is uncertain whether the barrier was the actual face of the solid glacier itself, which would then have been some 4 or 5 miles in front of the present end of Hubbard Glacier (as indicated on the U.S. Coast and Geodetic Survey chart 8455, 1945 and 1962), or whether there was simply a mass of solidly packed icebergs behind Haenke Island, such as still forms early in the season. (See the discussion in Tarr and Butler, 1909, pp. 21-22; Russell, 1892, p. 172; Tarr and Martin, 1914, pp. 108-109; Plafker and Miller, 1958.) In any case, the glacial front could not have been far distant from the island. Even Tebenkov's map 7, apparently based upon explorations in 1807 and 1823, shows the head of Disenchantment Bay ringed by ice a short distance above Haenke Island, Russell Fiord does not exist (or was not known), and Situk River still drains the lake at Mud Bay. These ice barriers apparently dis- appeared shortly after the middle of the century, according to native accounts (see p. 287) supported by the age of new growth on the old lake beach at the head of Russell Fiord (Tarr and Martin, 1914, p. 230). Farther west, the lobe of ice continued to fill Icy Bay until the present century, and the "Icy Bay" of the Russians, of Captain Belcher in 1837, and of the various expeditions attempting to climb Mount Saint Elias be- tween 1886 and 1891, was actually the former mouth of the Yahtse River, east of the true Icy Bay of today (Plafker and Miller, 1958). However, according to Filippi (1900, p. 72), by 1897 the delta of the Yahtse River had completely filled the estuary at its mouth "that existed in Malaspina's and Vancouver's time, and of which the record is preserved in a legend of the Yakutat Indians." Retreat at Icy Bay is believed to have begun about 1904, and has since proceeded very rapidly, so that a large proportion of Icy Bay is now open. My informants (see pp. 285-286) have their own explanation as to why this happened. The bergs from Guyot Glacier at the head of Icy Bay make this, like Disenchantment Bay, an attractive breeding ground for harbor seals. Malaspina Glacier, on the other hand, has become fairly stagnant, receding only about 3 miles at one point (Plafker and Miller, 1958). A brief revitalization of some glaciers, noticeable in 1906, was apparently caused by the earthquake of September, 1899, which dumped avalanches of snow down the mountains onto the neves from which the glaciers take their origin. Since then almost all the icefields in the Yakutat Bay region have been in re- treat, except for a recent advance of the Hubbard Glacier. The earthquake of 1899 (see summary in de Laguna et al., 1964, pp. 18-19) produced giant waves that destroyed forests up to 40 feet above sea level on the mainland north of Knight Island, washed away the graveyard on the southern tip of Khantaak Island, and resulted in changes of sea level, ranging from a subsidence of 7 feet at the western end of Phipps Peninsula to a maximum elevation of 47 feet on the west side of Disenchantment Bay. The axis of tilt ran squarely through the middle of the site of Old Town, on the south shore of Knight Island. The earthquake of July, 1958, resulted in the submergence of the southeastern point of Khantaak Island, with the loss of several lives, and produced other topographic changes all along the coast between Yakutat and Lituya Bay. (See Tocher, 1960.) Less dramatic, but clearly important in the long run, is the building out of the land along the surf-fringed western shore of Yakutat Bay and the ocean front of the lowlands from Controller Bay to Icy Point below Lituya Bay. This is not done through continuous deposition of sediments, but proceeds in spurts, "by successive steps, or leaps, as offshore bars develop" (Tarr and Butler, 1909, p. 144). Thus, the ocean currents build up alluvial deposits into beaches and bars which are thrown up 5 or 6 feet above normal high water by storms. Outside these again, new bars IN THREE PARTS LAND AND ITS PEOPLE 29 form during calm weather, while grass, flowers, and strawberries claim the older, protected, inner ridges. Swampy depressions between are filled with silt; later with vegetation (Russell, 1893, p. 13). Usually there is an outer barrier beach sheltering a line of shallow la- goons through which canoes can be taken at high water. Low tide exposes sticky mud or patches of quicksand. Behind this, again, are older beaches and shallow ponds or swamplands, the oldest ridges perhaps 2 or 3 miles from the shore and already clothed with forest (Tarr and Butler, 1909, p. 124). "Altogether there are three beaches in different stages of dissection and vegetation growth. In time the inner beach will become dry land; the barrier beach will become what the inner now is; the bar will become a barrier beach; and a new bar will develop out in the ocean" (Tarr and Butler, 1909, p. 144). It is this process that has created the lagoon system used by the natives in traveling between Yakutat and Dry Bay, and that has raised a number of sandhills on which native settlements and the Russian post at Yakutat were built. The rivers and streams discharg- ing into salt water frequently cut new channels through the bars, abandoning the old, the shift being usually to the west. These changes are, of course, noted by the Indians who today fish near the stream mouths and who have expressed concern that these shifts would confuse the salmon seeking their own birth-waters in which to spawn. Climate The U.S. Coast Pilot (vol. 9, pp. 77-80, 575, 578, 599) contains an excellent summary of climatic conditions along the Gulf Coast of Alaska, from which the follow- ing information has been drawn. The high mountains, up to 18,000 feet in height, which back the Gulf Coast of Alaska all the way from Cape Spencer to Prince William Sound have important effects upon the local weather. Here southeasterly or easterly winds are most prevalent, especially in winter, with westerly winds common in summer, but the partic- ular winds that predominate in any given locality seem to be conditioned by the lay of the land. The local nature of these winds is recognized by the TJingit in the place names which they give to them. Winds in the Controller Bay area, for example, are especially vari- able, as they are at Cordova just within the eastern edge of Prince William Sound. Sudden squalls or williwaws that blow in quick succession from different points of the compass occur near the mountainous parts of the coast and are particularly dangerous. In general, gales are most common in fall and winter, while July is the calmest month. "At Yakutat, east winds prevail in all seasons, occurring 40 percent of the time in autumn and winter, but only 22 percent in summer; northeast winds are also frequent in autumn and winter, and southeast and west winds in summer" (p. 77). While east winds of 16 knots or less are most common at all seasons, gales of 40 knots are all from the southeast and may also occur at any time of year, but have reached a record of 50 knots in winter. From October through March, gales average 3-5 days a month. By contrast, Cape Spencer is more stormy, experi- encing autumn gales up to 74 knots from the northeast, but Cordova had a maximum wind of only 43 knots from the southeast. Precipitation is very heavy, occurring on about 220 days a year, with average annual totals of 109 inches at Cape Spencer, 132 inches at Yakutat, 110 inches at Cape Saint Elias, and 94 inches at Cordova. Fall and winter, the most stormy months, are also the wettest, but much of the precipitation is in the form of snow. Thus, there is an average annual total snowfall of 34 inches at Cape Spencer, 179 inches at Yakutat, 71 inches at Cape Saint Elias, and 117 inches at Cordova. While spindrift or falling snow borne by winter gales may cause low visibility, fogs are frequent in summer. This is a country of relatively little sunshine, for the number of cloudy days in a year is generally greater than the sum of clear and partly cloudy days. Records for 30 years show that the wettest month at Yakutat is usually October, or at least the fall and winter months through January. The driest month is June, whether one measures the mean precipitation per month (4.8 inches in June to 19.3 inches in October), the mean number of rainy days (13 in June to 23 in November and January), or the maximum precipitation recorded within any 24-hour period (13.11 inches in June to 36.4 in August). However, precipitation varies a great deal, and in some years October may have only 6.8 inches of rain, and January, April, and June less than 1 inch. Mean snowfall records for the last 8 years range from a minimum of 2 inches in October, 9.8 in April, and a trace in May, up to 41.6 inches in January, with falls almost as heavy in December and March. Only June through September have been snow free, although this, of course, does not hold for the moun- tains. In March, 1954, it snowed almost continuously for about 10 days, usually 12 inches a day, according to my observations, and although the light snow packed down, I was told that it reached a depth of 4 feet at the airfield, setting a record. Drifts 6 feet or more in height pile up in the forests and do not melt until well into June. The climate also varies considerably within Yakutat Bay itself. "It was frequently cloudy and rainy on the foreland when it was clear in Disenchantment 30 SMITHSONIAN CONTRIBUTIONS TO ANTHROPOLOGY VOLUME 7 Bay; and fog was often present on Malaspina Glacier when the weather was clear in Yakutat Bay. It was, of course, also true that the mountains were frequently clouded when the sky was clear along the shores of the fiord" (Tarr and Butler, 1909, p. 30). A man who lives near the head of Dry Bay reports that there is much more sunshine at his home than at Yakutat. In the Gulf Coast area temperatures at sea level are relatively mild for the latitude and are not extreme. Thus, mean annual temperatures range from 40? F at Cape Spencer, 42? F at Yakutat, to 38? F at Cor- dova, with greater fluctuations as one goes westward, from a range of 4? F to 75? F at Cape Spencer, to a low of ?33? F and a high of 84? F recorded at Cordova. At Yakutat the months with means of freezing or below are December through March, with record lows of ?23? F in January, and subzero temperatures are also recorded for November through March. Only July and August have been without frost. Conversely, the warmest records are 81? F. for August, and 71? F. to 79? F. for May to September. But even in the coldest winter months there may be some days with highs of 50? F. Thunderstorms are rare, but may come with snow and cold, as well as with summer rains. The aurora borealis is also present when nights are clear, except in midsummer, but Yakutat lacks the brilliant and extensive displays characteristic of the interior. One important climatic feature that has not been brought out in these statistics is that the air frequently has a low humidity, so that between showers wet things begin immediately to dry. It is only when there is a fog, or when the snow melts during sunny days in spring that the air itself feels damp. This relatively cool wet climate, with heavy snows and periods of bitter cold and storm in winter, and brilliant sunshine for short stretches in summer, has demanded particular adaptations of the human in- habitants. These consisted aboriginally of rigorous hardening exercises begun in childhood to develop endurance of winter cold and summer damp, warm and waterproof clothing and snowshoes for winter, waterproof clothing or scanty garments for the rainy summer, face paint as a protection against sunburn and voracious mosquitoes, sweatbaths to relieve rheumatic stiffness, snug houses with strong roofs to withstand the heavy loads of snow and with entrances above snow level, elaborate and efficient techniques of storing food against the weeks in "winter when hunt- ing and fishing might be impossible, and lastly, a diet rich in the necessary fats, proteins, and antiscorbutics. The vocabulary naturally reflects the meteorologi- cal phenomena. These were often personified or believed to be controlled by beings and were thought to be affected by the actions of men, especially by breaches of taboo. Not only were there almost professional weather forecasters whose expert advice was consulted before voyages were undertaken, but most persons were observant of weather signs to be read in the look of the mountains, and both shamans and laymen knew magic to control the weather. I was told that there was no word for blue sky, but many words for bad weather were recorded. The names for particular winds are discussed on pages 804-805. At latitude 59?53' N. the seasonal variations in the amount of daylight are marked. Thus, on midsummer's day, the sun rises at 2:35 a.m. and sets only at 9:28 p.m., making almost 19 hours of daylight. At the winter solstice, however, the sun will not rise until 9:02 a.m., and will set at 2:55 p.m., bringing just less than 6 hours of daylight. It is obvious that summer and winter occupations must differ greatly, if only due to this factor. Of great importance in the winter are fires and lamps for light indoors, and moonlight on the snow helps to extend the hours when men can work or travel out of doors. Tides were a matter of concern, since these regulated canoe travel in shallow sloughs, streams, and salt water lagoons, and also made possible or prevented the gathering of shellfish and seaweed. In Yakutat Bay, mean higher high water is 10 feet, although the maxi- mum at spring tides may reach almost 13 feet. The lowest tide to be expected is ?4 feet, all measurements being referred to mean lower low water. Almost the same range of tides is found along the Gulf Coast, with a diurnal range of 9 feet at Lituya Bay, and 10.8 feet at the entrances to the Copper River and the Eyak River. Flora2 The Yakutat Bay area for the most part falls within Nelson's "Sitkan," or Merriam's "Canadian" biological zone (Gabrielson and Lincoln, 1959, pp. 41-49). This is an area that stretches from the forested part of Kodiak Island in southwestern Alaska, around the Gulf of Alaska, through the southeastern panhandle to merge gradually in British Columbia or northern 2 I have taken Anderson, 1959, as a guide to the scientific botanical terms in modern use, and have translated the plant names from Coville, 1895, according to Anderson's system. Sharpless, 1958, has been very useful for popular names. I have also consulted Fernow, 1902, and Stair and Pennell, 1946, but am not attempting to list all of the plants of the Yakutat area. Those items starred (*) are represented in the 1952 collection made by my field associate, Dr. Catharine McCellan. IN THREE PARTS LAND AND ITS PEOPLE 31 Washington with a largely similar zone of closely re- lated but more southern species and races. The Sitkan biotic community is characterized by the dense Pacific rain forests and their denizens, including the birds that regularly return to nest or to visit during their non- breeding seasons, and also including the fish that come to spawn in these waters. Because the interior world, Merriam's "Hudsonian" zone, is just across the moun- tains, most of its birds and mammals and many of its plants are also to be found on the coast, especially in areas of open grassland and muskeg, on higher and drier foothills, or where the great valleys have been cut through the barrier range. Furthermore, wherever the mountains rise above timberline (about 2,500 feet), or where recent glaciation has denuded their lower slopes, we can find permanent or temporary island areas characterized by the flora and some of the fauna of the Arctic-Alpine zone, or of the treeless Aleutian zone. Offshore are to be found the creatures of the open sea, the pelagic fishes, birds, and whales, or those sea mammals and northern-breeding birds that cross the Gulf of Alaska without need to rest on land. These can hardly be said to be within the Yakutat world, though they belong to its fringes, to the world beyond the supposed barrier of the horizon, where the sky touches the sea. Voyagers bound for Sitka or Nuchek, or ven- turesome sea otter hunters, have often seen the great sea birds and whales, and not infrequently some of these, as well as occasional deep sea fishes, are thrown upon the shore by storms or may seek shelter within Yakutat Bay. More conspicuous than such chance visitors are the myriads of migrating birds that regularly pass through Yakutat on their way to more northern nesting places or on their return to warmer winter quarters. Among these are species of great importance to the natives. Within the Yakutat area, therefore, all three Alaskan biotic zones may be found within relatively short dis- tances. The North Pacific lies just beyond the breakers, and for brief seasons in spring and fall the migrants of the Pacific flyway provide still greater diversity. Yet because glacial barriers have so recently isolated the Yakutat region from the rest of Alaska, or even cut off one part of the Gulf Coast from another, there are curious breaks in the distribution of mammals, resulting in absences of kinds found elsewhere in the Sitkan and interior zones, or in the development of a few special subspecies. According to Frederick Funston, who made a botan- ical study in Yakutat Bay in 1892 (Coville, 1895, p. 328): "The plant life of the region about Yakutat Bay is characterized by the dense and vigorous growth of a comparatively small number of species, giving the forests an appearance of great sameness." However, he was referring chiefly to the area near Yakutak, for there are clearly differentiated zones: The dense mature forests of lower Yakutat Bay that are confined to the slopes below 2,200 feet and to the older moraines and raised beaches south of Bancas Point and Point La- touche; the Arctic flora of the higher slopes and also of the fiords so recently denuded of vegetation; the grasses and flowers of the swampy outwash plains; and lastly the plants of the new sandy beaches. The forests are dark, dense and almost impenetrable. This is because the trees are thinly rooted in the shallow topsoil and in consequence there are many windfalls; tangled underbrush fills every available opening. "Even the Indians, who have lived here many years, have never penetrated the forests of the main- land for a mile from their own village" (Coville, 1895, p. 328). It is perhaps not irrelevant to note that the openness of the interior valleys is admired, or that the natives picture the afterworld of those who have died gloriously by violence as a grassy heaven. The Yakutat forest is composed chiefly of Sitka spruce, Picea sitchensis, Western coast hemlock, Tsuga heterophylla, and mountain hemlock, T. mertensiana, the proportions apparently varying according to the age of the stands and the amount of moisture in the soil. There are a few Alaskan yellow cedar, Chamaecy- paris nootkatensis, the western limit of which is reached in Prince William Sound. For the native, the spruce (sit) is "the" tree ('as) in Tlingit, furnishing wood for houses, canoes, boxes and other manufactures, and roots for baskets. Its inner bark, as well as that of the hemlock (yAn), is eaten, while the outer bark of the hemlock is used for such purposes as roofing. The yellow cedar (Boas, 1917, p. 155, xay; Harrington, xaa) is considered the best for carving, and its bark is preferred for the inside of blanket warps (Emmons, 1907, p. 237). I The branches of these trees are hung with festoons of moss, of which the natives distinguish several vari- eties. Moss in general is sixqa (Boas, 1917, p. 161, siqga; Harrington, sixkaa); the useless long hanging white moss is SA?; that used for diapers is 'as djiwAn sixqayi, 'moss under the limb of the tree,' or 'asyik sExoni. Lichens and fungus also grow on the trunks and stumps. The natives recognize the tiny cup-shaped fungus as 'tree crackers' ('as daqath"), and tiny toad- stools in the moss as 'moss rain hats' (sixqa siu duwet saxw). The ground underfoot is spongy with mosses, including club moss or ground pine, Lycopodiwm annoti- nurn, interspersed with flowers.3 3 In Boas' Tlingit vocabulary of 1S91, as rendered into more modern orthography, runningpine, Lycopodium clavatum,% is 'deer's belt/ qo'kan si'gi [quwa&an sigi]; fern is tsats; moss, Parmelia, is Se'xone; moss, Cychrus longicollis, is "woman in the wood," asq toyik ca ('as# tuyik ca]; shelf fungus, Polyporus, is "tree biscuit," or astaqa'di ['as taqadi]. 32 SMITHSONIAN CONTRIBUTIONS TO ANTHROPOLOGY VOLUME 7 Among the more important shrubs in the forest or along its edge is the skunkbush or false azalea, Men- ziesia ferruginea, tall as a man with handsome bluish- green leaves and bell-shaped coral-pink blossoms in June. Also within the forest, growing up to 10 feet in height, is the terrible devil club, Oplopanax Korridus (tsAxt; Boas, 1917, p. 125, sAxt'; Harrington, saxt'), with its branching stems and wide leaves all armed with sharp spikes that break off in the flesh like the quills of the porcupine. Its sweet white flowers bloom in May and June, and although the red berries that ripen in late August are inedible, its stems and bark are supposed to be valuable for counteracting disease. A tall plant growing at the edge of the woods, with flowers in July and red berries later in the summer was said to be good "T.B. medicine" and was called kAtltCAnEt. Boas (1891, p. 181) gives what is evidently this name to a species of Sorbus, perhaps S. sitchensis or mountain ash. Smaller forest plants include several kinds of wood ferns Dryopteris, rock ferns Polypodium, fragile ferns Cysopteris, sword ferns Polystichum, and lady fern Athyrium, some of which furnish edible roots (qwAlx; Boas, 1917, p. 157, KwAfac; Harrington, kVaix). For example, the lady fern, Athyrium filix-femina,* was identified as "native sweetpotato" (sate). The dwarf dogwood or bunchberry, Cornus canadensis, with its four white floral bracts and orange-red berries carpets the ground. The similar deerberry, Maian- themum dilitatum,* (qekAxitlk) is reputed to have many medicinal virtues, especially as a poultice (qet kayani).4 There are also the small white starflower, Trientalis europea arctica,* the root of which was used as a love medicine (wutc sixAni nakw); Alaskan golden- thread, Coptis trifoliata, with three white petals and bitter tonic root; the foamflower, Tiarella trifoliata,* with dainty white blossoms lifted high; the single delight or wax flower, Moneses unifiora,* with a single drooping white flower; the coral-root, Corallorrhiza mertensiana*; the cut-leaf anemone, Anemone multi- Jida*; and the one-sided wintergreen, Pyrola secunda,* with its line of drooping bells. Among these plants, as well as among those of the damp glades (see below), are a number that were used as medicines or amulets. The tall clasping twisted-stalk, Streptopus amplexi- folius,* a lily with creamy bells, is known as 'dead person's berries' (sege qawu tl'egu) because of its rich, inedible fruit. At the edge of the forest, or in glades within, grow the important berry bushes; the red-berried elder, Sambucus racemosa, (yeiJ) with white flowers in May and tart red berries in September; the salmonberry, Rubus spectabilis,* (wAsian tl'egu) with red to yellow fruit ripening in August; the delicious early blueberry, Vaccinium ovalifolium (kanat&), to be gathered in late August or September; the 'up-river blueberry' (nana kana??yi), possibly the red huckleberry, V. parvifolium, but identified by Emmons (1903, p. 438) as the thin- leafed blueberry, V. membranaceum, and by Harrington as the Alaska blueberry, V. alaskensis; the trailing red raspberry or five-leafed bramble, Rubus pedatus,* and the cloudberry, R. chamaemorus,* both called 'dog's earrings' (ketl gukw kAdjacI); the trailing black currant, Ribes laxiflorum,* and fetid currant, R. gland- ulosum,* both known as "lowbush currant" (kAnEltsuk; Harrington, khaneeltsukw); and the highbush cran- berry, Viburnum edule,* (kAXwex) with its tasty red berries available from late August through the fall. On more open moist soil is the low lagoon berry, Rubus stellatus (Harrington, neekuun, from 'lagoon'). The "wild currant" (cax, cax; Harrington, caax) is probably the blue currant or skunk bush, Ribes bracteo- sum, (according to Swanton, 1909, p. 19, cax); the "lowbush cranberry" may be Vaccinium vitis-idea. The thimbleberry, Rubus parviflorus (Harrington, tciix),* was believed to have medicinal virtue.3 Growing on the edge of the forest and on the slopes above it are the matted clumps of the red alder, Alnus oregona (kesis; Boas 127, k6cic; Harrington, khiicfc), found up to an altitude of 3,000 feet, where it forms "such dense jungles as to be almost impenetrable, constituting one of the most serious obstacles to moun- tain climbing in this region" (Coville, 1895, p. 328). Its wood and springy branches were, however, used for a number of manufactures and its bark for red dye. The willow Salix ssp. (teal', teal') grows on the lowland, and its thickets are important as "the favorite resort of the ptarmigan" (Coville, 1895, p. 329), especially in Disenchantment Bay. These two shrubs and the cotton- wood, Populus tricocarpa and P. tacamahacca(?), (duq; Boas 156, duq) form the advance guard of the forest that is slowly reoccupying Disenchantment Bay and Russell Fiord. Swanton reports (1909, p. 60) that the "smelly things" growing on top of the cottonwood trees are called doxkwa'nk! On stream banks or in swampy glades grow several species of saxifrage, Saxifraga punctata, S. mertensiana, 4 According to Harrington, the dwarf dogwood is k'aykhaxe'tl'kh while the deerberry is tlhe'et, 'circular.' 5 Boas (1891) lists the following berries, as rendered into more modern orthography: early blueberry, Vaccinium ovalifolium, kanaka'; bog blueberry, V. uliginosum, tsika'xk"; mountain cran- berry, V. vitis-idea, negu'n; crowberry, Empetrum niqrum, xitlewutse. The latter, of course, is found only on higher slopes. Highbush cranberry, Viburnum acerifolium, k'Aswe'x. This last is probably V. edule. Harrington calls the highbush cranberry (V. pauciflorum i.e., V. edule) the "white currant" (cwax); and also mentions the swamp cranberry, Occycoccus microcarpus (c6tck khatlhe'ekuu). IN THREE PARTS LAND AND ITS PEOPLE 33 and S. stellarisC?); the tall yellow wild snapdraggon or monkeyflower, Mimulus guttatus formerly langsdorfii; delicate-blossomed alum-root, Heuchera glabra; and the Siberian springbeauty. Claytonia sibirica.* "The last- named plant is eaten both raw and cooked by the Indians" (Coville, 1895, p. 330). My informants iden- tified this, however, as "money dope" (duwuwEt kayi kayani) or 'medicine for being called by the village' ('ante 'uxux nakw). An important source of food is the root of the Kamchatka lily or "wild rice" (kux), Fritillaria camtchatcensis,* with its purply- brown flowers and an odor offensive to our noses. Here too is found the "wild rhubarb" (tl'a]iwAtc), a dock or sorrel Bumex, possibly fenestraius,* the reddish leaves and stems of which are eaten in the spring and early summer.6 Most welcome in the early spring are the fresh raw stalks of the "wild celery" or cowparsnip, Heradeum lanaium, (yana'?t; Boas 155, yXnAEt') which later in the summer toughen and carry their umbrellas of white flowerlets to a height of 4 or 5 feet. The dried stalks have given their name (ku?) to the basketry rings on chiefs' woven hats. The wild celery often grows in the open with the similar, but later blooming, Angelica. The horsetail, Equisitum variegatum and E. arvense, is also found along the banks of streams and in muskegs. My informants called it 'sea lion's whiskers' (tan ?adadz?yi), and said it was "good for nothing," although Emmons (1903, p. 238) reported that the marsh horsetail, E. palustre, called "at the edge of the water, heeney money" (i.e., hin WAHI) was used for basket decoration, especially at Yakutat. E. arvense (thaan k'utaa tzaalii) was used as sandpaper for smoothing woodwork, according to Harrington. Two important medicinal plants from the woodland swamps are the skunk cabbage, Lysichitum americanum, C&atl') especially good as medicine for cuts (sel nakw), and the American white hellebore or "skookum root," Veratrum eschscholtzii* (sikc) useful for wounds, as hair medicine (cAxawu nakw) and, according to Swan- ton (1909, p. 143, s!tkc), for protection against land otters. The tall white-spired goatsbeard, Aruneus vulgaris,* also furnished an effective medicine (qa kakdusex nakw). We should not forget the deadly waterhemlock, Cicuta douglasii or virosa(l), although this was not used by the Yakutat, as far as I know. The open tundralike flats, as for example, between the Situk and Lost Rivers, are described by Shortt (1939, p. 2) as "for the most part covered with sedges, deer cabbage, heather and Carex. Some of these clear- ings between Yakutat and the Situk are very swampy and are covered with a film of oil. There is also a heavy bacterial deposit of iron-oxide in these swamps 6 According to Harrington, the leaves of both Rumex fenesiratus and R. occidentalis (tl'aak'wat#) were boiled and eaten. which gives the vegetation and the many stagnant pools a rust-red colour." These flats are dotted with the white tufts of the Alaska cotton-grass Eriophorum, especially E. scheuchzeri. Here also grows the Arctic iris, Iris setosa, of which the "Indians are said to use the rootstock as a medicinal charm" (Coville, 1895, p. 346). The white bog-orchid or wild hyacinth, Limnorchis dilitata leueostachys,* a variety of Habenaria or Platanthera, is the "need medicine," or "looking at the sun medicine" (gAgan 'Ahtin nakw), effective in bringing extra gifts at a potlatch. The useful Hudson's Bay tea, Ledum groenlandiea, (sikcAltin or sikcaltfn) grows on some of the flats by the airfield and near the Situk River. In shallow pools are two plants, reported to possess great medicinal virtues. These are the yellow pond lily, Nymphaea polysepala, or 'the thing that grows on the bottom of the lake' ('atugwexi; Harrington, 'aa thuke'e?ii), and its 'child' ('atugweii yAtii), the buckbean, Menyanthes trifoliata,* with lavender flowers. Pondweeds, Potamogeton per- joliatus and P. pusillus, grow in the creeks. Other flowers of the damp open glades are: the yellow marsh-marigold, Caltha palustris; Alaska violet, Viola langsdorfii; red baneberry, Actaea arguta; large-leafed avens, Geum macrophyllum (Harrington, 'aan khanaa- kuu); the daisylike fleabane, Erigeron sp.; lamb lily or asphodel, Tqfieldia glutinosa{!); yellow willow-herb, Epilobium luteum; a slender join tweed or bistort, Polygonum viviparum; sea lovage with broad leaves and aromatic roots, Ligusticum hultenii, formerly scoticum; wild pea, Lathyrus palustris; a broad-leafed yellow composite, Arnica latifolia; the tall blue Greek-valerian, Polemonium acutiflorum (or caeruleum)*; the creeping spearwort, a buttercup or crowfoot, Ranunculus flammula; marsh cinquefoil, PotentiUa palustris;* an aster with narrow purple petals, Aster subspicatus; Alpine aster, A. alpinus;* mud sedge, Carex limosa stygia; spikerush, Eleocharis watsoni(J); and sickle- leaved rush, Juncus falcatus. The grasses in the drier open lands are tufted hair-grass, Deschampsia caespitosa, and sweet-grass Hierochloe, formerly Savastana odorata. At old sites the nettles, Urtica, lyallii (Harrington, Mukw), grow thick and are used for reddish basket dyes according to Emmons (1903, p. 238). The grassy dunes and open gravel flats are often carpeted with masses of those wild strawberries, Fragaria chiloensis, (cukw or cAkw; Harrington, cukw), for which Yakutat is famous. They ripen in different places from early July to mid-August. Of value to the natives in decorating baskets and also as "mattresses" under fur robes are the stalks of the beach rye-grass, Elymus mollis, formerly arenarius (Harrington, lakh), which grows on the dunes. My informants gave me only one word for 'grass' (xatl' or xal'),7 which apparently grows in streams, although 34 SMITHSONIAN CONTRIBUTIONS TO ANTHROPOLOGY VOLUME 7 they doubtless distinguished between varieties useful to them. Small burrs found on some of the grass stems are known as 'slave's louse nests, or snarls' (guxw CA#si). Emmons (1903, p. 236) reported the following grasses as used for ornamentation of baskets, and presumably many of these were available at Yakutat where the best baskets were once made: fowl manna-grass, Panicularia nervata, now Glyeeria striata; blue-joint, Calarnagrostis canadensis langsdorfii; tufted hair-grass, Deschampsia caespitosa; slender reed-grass, Cinna latijolia (Harrington, caak); Alaska brome-grass, Bromus sitchensis; and beach rye-grass, Elyraus mollis. Perhaps the most showy plant of the gravels is the blue and white lupin, Lupinus nootkatensis (kantAk", gEntAkw, or kantXqw; Harrington, kanthakw or gantagw), the roots of which were eaten. I am not sure whether the natives distinguished between two varieties or colors of lupin, or also ate a similar plant (gi&us or gE^us). The latter may have been the beach pea, Lathyrus maritimus, with rose and purple flowers, since the roots of a plant with pink flowers were called "sweetpotatoes" (sate or tsatc). (Possibly this was the related Hedysarum alpinum, called "bear root," or "Indian potatoes" on the Copper River.) Coville (1895, p. 332) notes that the hairy rock-cress, Arabis hirsuta, which thrives in the gravelly soil of the dunes, is "sometimes eaten raw by the Indians." Identification of the root plants eaten at Yakutat is very difficult, since our informants could not describe them, and the roots would normally be gathered when the plants were not in bloom. Swanton (1909, pp. 18, 159, 180, 182) mentions three different edible roots eaten by the Tlingit: ts'et, sin, and fern root (klwAlx). I was given the names sate, sAtc, tsats, tsats for "sweet- potatoes," and also set. One informant called fern leaves sate and fern roots qwAby. The yellow vetch, "mule's ear," was not eaten but was called 'Raven's garden' (yei tayi). On the dunes and gravel flats there are both the Arctic fireweed, Epilobium latifolium, and the ordinary taller variety, E. angustifolium; one or both were used for medicine (lul). Yarrow, Achillea millefolium, called 'mouse tail' (kagak tl'idi; Harrington, khakaak tl'iitii), was also of medicinal value. In this area there also grows the northern willow-herb, Epilobium an- denocaulon*; the scarlet Indian paint-brush, Oastilleja miniata and C. chrymactis*; the yellow to magenta lousewort, Pedicularis palustrisC!); yellow rattlebox, Rhinanthus minor, formerly crista-galli; the blunt- leaved and sea-beach sandworts, Arenaria lateriflora i Thia word sounds suspiciously like the name for skunk cabbage (iatl'}. Harrington recorded tchuukhan for 'grass' in general. Boas (1917, p. 126, from Swanton) gives tcukAn for 'brush' and for 'grass.' and A, peploides; blue gentians, Gentiana amarella(?); many-flowered woodrush, Luzula multifiora, formerly Juncoides campestris suedicum; succulent sea milkwort Glaux maritima; the alakali-grass of the sea shore, Puccinellia maritima(?); and spear-grass, Poa eminens, formerly glumaris. Above the upper limit of the forests, the mountain- sides have a heavy growth of grass, Deschampsia, caespitosa longifiora, and of blue monkshood or aconite, Aconitum delphinifolium. Above 2,500 feet, however, there are chiefly spotted saxifrage, Saxvfraga bronchialis; a ground willow, Salix arctica; the showy blue northern geranium or crane's bill, Geraniumer ianthum; and two creeping mountain shrubs: the Alaska heather, Cassiope stelleriana, and Luetkea pectinata. Still higher grow mostly small arctic plants, the most important of which may be the Kamchatka rock-cress, Arabis lyrata kamchatica, since it is "eaten raw by the natives" (Coville, 1895, p. 332). There are doubtless other plants, the roots of which are valued for magical or medicinal purposes, since we were told that many of these had to be sought on the mountainside. Since the plants were carefully guarded professional secrets, unknown to our informants, we were unable to identify them. Emmons (1903, p. 238; 1907, p. 336, saxoti) reports that the lichen, Everina vulpina, was used for yellow dye for basket straws and goat wool. This, I believe, grows on the mountains. Among the plants growing at high elevations, Boas (1891) identifies as medicines or amulets the composite Arnica cordijolia or 'town-on medicine' (an ka na' gu, i.e., 'ankA nagu), and wild heliotrope, Valeriana sp., (tltcanis la'kw, i.e., Itcanis nakw or, rather, itcAni nakw). In the same area, or in Disenchantment Bay, grow two medicines which we were unable to identify. These are "no-strength-inside" (Iqatu lAtsin), useful for hunters of dangerous animals, and "glare" (kAUk or kAhk) to blind the eyes of rivals. Emmons (1903, p. 238) reports that the stems of the maidenhair fern, Adiantum pedatum(?), "on the side of the mountain or shar-ah- thlee-tee" (possible ca 'Atl'idi or 'mountain its-tail'?), were used for basketry decoration. This name, however, suggests that of a vine called "mountain eel" (cayall'tlt, Swanton, 1909, p. 98). Funston (Coville, 1895) collected the following plants high above the tree line above Disenchantment Bay: chickweed, Cerastium alpinumij); the rose- tinted lesser wintergreen of the snowline, Pyrola minor; the white-blossomed wild heliotrope, Valeriana sitchensis; hairy cinquefoil and a related species, PotentUla villosa and P. procumbenstf); fringed grass- of-Parnassus, Parnassia fimhriaia; a woodworm or sagebrush, Artemesia normgia{l); winter cress or yellow rocket, Barbarea barbarea(?); buttercup or IN THREE PARTS LAND AND ITS PEOPLE 35 crowfoot, Ranunculus cooleyae; harebell or Alaskan bluebell, Campanula rotundifolia alaskana; coltsfoot, Tussilago frigida(?); wooly hawkweed, Hieracium triste; the long-bracted orchid, Habenaria bracteata or Coeloglossum viride; Anemone narcissiflora; wooly ever- lasting, or cat's ears, Antennaria alpinaij); rattlesnake root, Prenanthes alata; western columbine, AquUegia formosa; a yellow daisy-like composite, Arnica latifolia; Sitka mistmaid, Romanzoffia sitehensis; drug eyebright, Euphrasia qfficinalis(?); a yellow-blossomed avens, Geum calthifolium; parsley-fern or rockbrake, Crypto- gramrna acrostichoides; the common fragile-fern, Orysto- pteris fragiiis; spike redtop grass, Agrostis exarata; mountain timothy, Phleum alpinum; and alpine blue- grass, Poa alpina. The alpine clubmoss, Lycopodium alpinum, with long trailing roots, may be what the Tlingit call "mountain eel" (Swanton, 1909, p. 98, cayali't!!). As indicated already, the true forest does not extend farther up Yakutat Bay than just below Point Latouche on the east and Bancas Point on the west. Beyond, in Disenchantment Bay and Russell Fiord, grows the advance guard of alders and willows, with a few cotton- woods following. Spruce is not found again until the end of Russell Fiord, south of Shelter Cove opposite Mount Tebenkof. Nor can the forest grow on the swampy forelands east of Yakutat. The sides of Nun- atak Fiord appear almost bare, although some arctic and mountain plants are beginning to find a foothold, but near the head the glacier is still today in rapid retreat and the rocks are lifeless. In contrast, however, are the alders, cottonwoods, and spruces that grow luxuriantly on the debris-laden ends of the Malaspina Glacier on the west side of Yakutat Bay. In addition to the plants listed above, the Yakutat natives were also familiar with the western red cedar, Thuja plicata, (lax) of southernmost Tlingit country and British Columbia, since it was used for canoes im- ported from the Haida. They also knew the paper birch of the interior, Betula papyrifera, because they some- times received containers oi its bark (Boas, 1917, p. 154, 'It dayi, 'its bark'); they had names for the "black pine" or black spruce of the interior, Picea mariana, (Swanton 1909, p. 92, IAI), and also for the fir, Abies sp. (Harrington, leeyfs; Boas, 1917, p. 157, leyfs). The Douglas maple, Acer glabrum douglasii, (Boas, 1917, p. 160, xalie) and the Oregon crabapple, Malus diver si- folia, (Boas, 1917, p. 156, xax), like the Pacific yew, Taxus bredfolia, a hardwood used by the Tlingit in making bows, hence called 'bow' (Boas, 1917, p. 160, slqs), were to be seen in southeastern Alaska. My informants also mentioned a variety of currant with prickles (xahe'ywu), probably Ribes lacustre, which they said grew only in southeastern Alaska. Doubtless they also knew the rosebush (Boas, 1917, p. 163, qonyel). Those who went up the Alsek River could gather bearberries or kinnikinnick, Arctostaphylos uva- wrsi, (tmx) and soapberries, Shepherdia canadensis (hoktl'i; Harrington, xukwti'ii; cf. Swanton, 1909, p. 252, qokli't!). The latter was esteemed a delicacy, and one informant reported in 1952 that some had been found on a mountain "on this side" of Hubbard Glacier. A more complete list of plants was collected in 1945 in the virgin forest near Yakutat, on the muskeg, on creek banks, on cleared ground, and along the ocean beach, and has been published by Stair and Pennell (1946). These add about 50 new species to the list published by Coville (1895) upon which the preceding account is based. These additional plants were largely from the flat coastal lowland east of Yakutat or from the denser parts of the forest which had been made accessible by roads bulldozed around the airfield. About 11 plants were undoubtedly introduced through the activities of the Army Air Corps. Of the flowering plants known from Yakutat, about half are circum- boreal; the others belong to the western part of the continent, in some cases only to the Pacific coast. It is interesting that the ranges of a few plants, character- istic of northern Asia, and of others more at home in southeastern Alaska, should overlap at Yakutat (Stair and Pennell, 1946, pp. 13-14). The cultivated red currant, which seems to be spreading from the mission garden, is called kwek. The only plant cultivated in aboriginal times at Yakutat was tobacco (gAntc), also known as "native tobacco" (Imgit gAntci). Beresford (1789, p. 175) with Dixon in 1787 observed the Yakutat natives chewing "a plant, which appears to be a species of tobacco," and Malaspina (1885, p. 164) in 1791 mentions "culti- vated ground" on the islands and mainland in the southeastern part of the bay. According to Heizer (1940) the tobacco was a species of Nicotiana, similar to N. multivalvis. Mammals8 As might be expected, the diversity of ecological zones and the barriers created by glacial advances have had a pronounced effect upon the fauna of the Gulf Coast of Alaska, especially in the Yakutat area. Thus, Tarr (Tarr and Butler, 1909, p. 141) found in 8 This section is based on Dufresne, 1946; Rhode and Barker, 1953; Logier and Toner, 1961; and above all upon Hall and Kelson, 1959, whose classifications and distributions have been followed as closely as possible. 36 SMITHSONIAN CONTRIBUTIONS TO ANTHROPOLOGY VOLUME 7 1905 and 1906 that the northern shore between Nuna- tak and Hubbard Glaciers was still practically in- accessible to the larger predators. No tracks of wolves, foxes, or bears were seen, while ptarmigan were par- ticularly numerous and gulls could breed in safety on the moraine, whereas in other parts of the bay they had to nest on cliffs. The same conditions prevail today. Although the foreland is good country for deer, they had apparently been cut off by water and by glacial barriers and were not found north of Cross Sound until introduced into the Yakutat area and Prince William Sound by the U.S. Government. The glacial barriers on the Alsek have also until recently been effective in excluding many animals of the in- terior. Thus, for example, moose, coyote, and rabbit are relatively recent newcomers to the Yakutat and Dry Bay region; there are still no porcupines, and as far as we know, there were never any caribou. In the case of other animals with wide distribution, Yakutat Bay and the Malaspina Glacier seem to mark a boundary between different subspecies or races, so that the forms found on the southeastern shore are not necessarily the same as those to the north and west. For a number of species, unfortunately, detailed information is lacking and we know only the con- trast between forms in southeastern Alaska and those of Prince William Sound or the Alaska Peninsula. We may not know whether the animal is present in the intervening area, or, if reported, we do not know what sub-species is represented. Other faunal barriers on the mainland seem to be Cape Spencer, the western edge of Prince William Sound, and perhaps Lituya Bay or possibly the Grand Plateau Glacier which now reaches the beach. The islands in southeastern Alaska, like those of the Aleutian chain, may lack certain common animals of the adjacent mainland, or possess their own bewildering array of local races. Detailed investigations, such as those devoted to the fauna of the Alexander and Aleutian Archipelagos, have not been made at strategic localities along the coast be- tween Cape Spencer and the Copper River, where we might expect to find local variations between animal populations that had been separated by glacial bar- riers. Such problems are obviously the concern of the biologist, yet their solutions might help the anthro- pologist to understand more fully the history of the area and the varying ecological possibilities to which the aboriginal human inhabitants have adjusted. Unfortunately, none of the early explorers of the Yakutat area made as accurate observations as did LaPerouse at Lituya Bay, so we can get little informa- tion from them about the fauna of the 18th century and often find it difficult to identify the animals they saw. Thus, Beresford with Dixon in 1786 (Dixon 1789, p. 169) noted that the expedition purchased cloaks of sea otter, beaver, earless marmot, and "racoon." Surfa with Malaspina in 1791 (Wagner, 1936, p. 247) noted the natives wearing robes, the skins of which "seem to be of bears [black bear], tigers [lynx?], lions [Alaska brown bear, according to Wagner], and some of deer- skins [from southeastern Alaska? caribou from the in- terior?], and of marmots, with the hair outside." He also noted marten skins for the women, and black bear robes for the men (p. 255). "Deer grease" (p. 247) smeared on the hair is probably mountain goat tallow. Malaspina's own account (1885, pp. 157, 159, 345, 347) mentions that the Yakutat natives had clothing of bear, wolf, "sea-wolf" obtained only in deep water, "nutria," "otter," and "little fox" (zorilla). The "sea-wolf" is the sea otter, while "nutria" and "otter" are probably the same, to judge by the native name recorded, or may be land otter. If the last, this would suggest that at that period the natives resembled the Chugach and the Atna Athabaskans in having no horror of the land otter, unlike the modern Eyak, Yakutat, and Tlingit. "Little fox" or zorilla (also applied to the skunk) and "racoon" remain unidentified unless they refer to the odorous mink and to the pretty marten. LaPerouse's observations are much more full and accurate, yet we cannot be sure from what animal were obtained the "tanned elkskins" seen at Lituya Bay (1799, vol. 1, p. 395). LAND MAMMALS The Yakutat people face a variety of large brown bears and grizzlies. These have never been classified to the satisfaction of biologists, but for the native all these large species are "the Bear" (xuts; Boas, 1917, p. 158, xiits), the prize of the intrepid hunter and an important sib crest. The very large, dark grizzled Dall brown bear, Ursus dalli, lives northwest of Yakutat Bay, especially along the Malaspina Glacier. The for- ester, Jay Williams (1952, p. 138), reports this huge bear at Lituya Bay; it may be another variety, or there may be a break in its distribution between Yakutat and Lituya Bays. Apparently confined to the south- eastern side of Yakutat Bay is the Yakutat grizzly, U. nortoni, a large true grizzly, with yellowish or golden brown head and dark brown rump and legs, the whole looking whitish from a distance. It seems to range as far south as Lituya Bay (Williams, 1952, p. 138). Also known at Yakutat is the giant brown bear of Kodiak, the Alaska Peninsula, and Prince William Sound, U. middendorffi. The Alsek grizzly, U. orgiloides, a cream- colored medium sized bear with long narrow skull, ranges the foreland east of Yakutat, especially along the Ahrnklin, Italio, and Alsek Rivers. It is not known whether this bear, or the closely related Glacier Bay IN THREE PARTS LAND AND ITS PEOPLE 37 grizzly, U. orgttos, is the form found at Lituya Bay. Between Cross Sound and the Alsek delta is the large Townsend grizzly, U. townsendi, the exact range of which is undefined. The black bear (sik), found along the coastal glaciers from Lituya Bay (or Cross Sound) northward to the eastern edge of Prince William Sound or Cape Saint Elias, is very much smaller than the ordinary American black bear. Furthermore, in addition to the usual black and brownish colors, many from the same litter are blue-gray or maltese. These are called glacier bears, U. americanus emmonsii, formerly Euarctos emmonsii or Ursus glacialis. The Indians make no distinctions, as far as I know, between the color varients, unless what Boas (1891, p. 174) recorded as a "polar bear" (caq, i.e., cax) is really the blueish glacier bear. A few bones of the black bear were found in the site on Knight Island. Although the Tlingit recognize the distinction be- tween the large brown bears and the smaller black bears there is one term which can be used to cover both (tsfnist, sinst). There are wolves (gutc) at Yakutat, often driven by hunger in winter to the very edge of the town. Some of these may be the large interior Alaska wolf, Canis Iwpus pambasiLeus, gray to coal-black in color, the southwestern limit of whose range is reported at Yakutat. A very large black wolf, repeatedly seen near the road just east of the town during March and early April, 1954, was probably this form. The smaller Alexander Archipelago gray wolf, C. I. Ugoni, that ranges south of Yakutat along the mainland and on the islands south of Frederick Sound, has actually been taken at Eleanor Cove on the southeastern side of Yakutat Bay. As far as I know, the Tlingit make no formal distinction between these two races. The Wolf is, of course, an important moiety and sib crest. Although Hall and Kelson (1959, map 447, p. 856) would indicate that the red fox, Vulpes fulva, is absent on the coast from Oregon north to Kenai Peninsula, although common in the interior as V. f. alascensis or V. alascensis alascensis, nevertheless the Yakutat natives reported them at Yakutat and at Dry Bay. Mertie (1931, p. 121) saw both the red and the cross varient at Lituya Bay, and LaPerouse there purchased red fox furs from the natives (1799, vol. 1, p. 395). Foxes have been taken to some of the islands in Yakutat Bay both by natives and Whites for fur-farming ventures (Goldschmidt and Haas, 1946, p. 76), yet the fox must be much older here than these imported animals. Our informants spoke of trapping and snaring them at Dry Bay and at Yakutat, and described the aboriginal devices used to take them, mentioning clothing made of the pelts and robes of fox paws. There was even a taboo against giving the tails to dogs, suggesting an ancient acquaintance with the fox. Israel Russell (1893, p. 26) noticed the tracks of foxes, as well as of bears, wolves, and mountain goats, on the Malaspina Glacier. Natives told Goldschmidt and Haas (1946, pp. 74, 83, 85) about trapping foxes near Dry Bay, Italio River, Point Manby, and Katalla. George Johnson, who was familiar with the coast west of Yakutat, said that two White men had taken 122 "mixed" [i.e., cross] foxes at Yakataga with poison, so that there were no more in that area. The Tlingit name for fox (nagasE) is an unusual word, and is reported by Boas (1891, p. 177) as "borrowed." We should note that the "highest name" for the fox on the Copper River, where special respect words are used by hunters, is very similar (na'qMzi' or natAdzi'), which suggests an interior origin for both the animal and its name. Quite possibly it has not been very long on the coast, for it is not a sib crest. Although lynx furs were used as robes at Yakutat, and although LaPerouse purchased some skins at Lituya Bay (1899, vol. 1, p. 395), I am not sure whether the Canadian lynx, Lynx canadensis, (gaq; Boas, 1917, p. 160, gaq) is actually found at Yakutat, although it was trapped in the Dry Bay area. None of my in- formants nor those who discussed territorial rights and resources with Goldschmidt and Haas (1946, pp. 84, 85) specifically mentioned trapping lynx nearer than Dry Bay. The name has a good Tlingit sound and has also been recorded by Swanton (1909, p. 125, gak) at Wrangell. The coyote, Canis latrans incolatus, like the moose and rabbit, is reported to have arrived "just lately," "about 1925," or "just a few years ago," according to Yakutat informants. One old man thought that the building of the Alaska Highway might have driven them down to the coast. The coyote is absent from southeastern Alaska, but was previously known from the upper Alsek River and from the Copper River flats. We know that coyotes have increased their range during the present century, for according to the "Report of the Governor of Alaska on the Alaska Game Law, 1919" (Riggs, 1920, pp. 11-12), "Coyotes are increasing along the White River and at the head of the Chitina" behind the Saint Elias Range, having ". . . gradually worked their way up from British Colum- bia. . . ." The coyote is so new to the Yakutat Tlingit that they have no proper name for it other than 'upstream wolf (nagutc) or "way-back dog" (hada ketli). The northern wolverine Gullo luscus luscus (nuskw; Boas, 1917, p. 166, nusku(), is found on the coast as well as in the interior, is recorded for Yakutat, and is specifically mentioned by the natives as being encoun- tered in the Dry Bay area. The skin, like that of the 38 SMITHSONIAN CONTRIBUTIONS TO ANTHROPOLOGY VOLUME 7 wolf, was valued for making the hammock for a baby boy. The most valued fur-bearer on land was the small arboreal marten, Maries arnericana kenaiensis or M. a. actuosa, (tux; Boas, 1917, p. 160, Kuxu). It was trapped at Dry Day and at Yakutat. The weasel or ermine (da; Boas, 1917, p. 166, da) was probably Mustela erminea arctica, the variety found along the coast north of Glacier Bay, and also in the interior, but not in southeastern Alaska, although the prolifera- tion of local forms and the difficulties of classifying these makes an exact determination impossible. Similar uncertainties apply to the Yakutat mink (lukciyan; Boas, 1917, p. 160, Itikciyan) since these may be the larger interior mink, M. vison ingens, the Kenai Peninsula form, M. v. melampeplus, which is found also in Prince William Sound, or the type found farther south and in the interior, M. v. energumenos. The mink was never highly regarded in aboriginal times, being associated with the evil land otter, or appearing as Raven's servant in one story (Swanton, 1909, Tale 1, pp. 9-10), and in general considered smelly. The ermine, however, was used for trimming ceremonial dress. Our informants spoke of catching weasels and minks at Yakutat and Dry Bay for sale (cf., also Goldschmidt and Haas, 1946, p. 80). The Pacific land otter, Lutra canadensis pacifica, (kiieda) ranges along the coast from the northern part of southeastern Alaska to Controller Bay(?), is larger than the interior Canadian form, L. c. cana- densis. The land otter was not hunted or used for fur in aboriginal times because the Tlingit and Eyak believed that lost or drowned persons were turned into Land Otter Men (kucdaqa). Many persons today are still afraid of it. Two land otter bones were, how- ever, found in the midden at the site on Knight Island in Yakutat Bay, and Malaspina's observations may indicate that the Yakutat in former times had a dif- ferent attitude towards the animal. The beaver, Castor canadensis belugae, (segedi; Harrington, sikkeedii; Boas, 1917, p. 154, sAgedi) has a wide distribution all over coastal and interior Alaska, except for the Alaska Peninsula and Arctic Coast, or in the southeast where it is replaced by the Pacific beaver, C. c. pacificus. However, the beaver is now extinct at Yakutat, although its bones and teeth were found on Knight Island. We were told that there were still some animals on the Ahrnklin River, where trapping rights have been carefully guarded by the owning sib. There were once beaver at Dry Bay, but they are all gone now. LaPerouse (1799, vol. 1, p. 395) bought beaver skins at Lituya Bay, but, of course, we do not know where they had been trapped. The Garyrx-Kagwantan lands west of Icy Bay were traditionally rich in beaver, and Yakutat Indians visiting their relatives at Kaliakh River or Controller Bay might trap them. The Yakutat also used to buy beaver pelts at settlements near the mouth of the Copper River or at Nuchek in Prince William Sound to sell to then- southern relatives or to the fur traders. It is probably significant that it was the Galyix-Kagwantan who had the Beaver as a crest. The Yakutat people were also familiar with the muskrat (tsfn), some bones of which were found at the site on Knight Island. Again, Yakutat Bay seems to be the boundary between two varieties, Ondantra zibethicus zalophus to the west and O. z. spatulatus to the south- east. The latter was actually taken on the Ahrnklin River, but the distribution of the western form is not very clear. LaPe'rouse noted "water rat" (muskrat?) at Lituya Bay (1799, vol 1, p. 395). It is interesting that only one informant mentioned the muskrat: "They say there used to be lots around here, but when they started to trade, they trade for rifle. They pile them [the skins] up even with the rifle", that is, even with the top of the muzzle as the rifle (musket?) was stood vertically on its butt. This was the price exacted by the Chilkat in trading with the interior Athabaskans and it is possible that the Tlingit had the same custom in their early dealings with the Dry Bay Athabaskans and the Yakutat Eyak. At that time, however, only sea otter furs were sought, and muskrat pelts had no value, so the remarks of our informant should not be accepted without some reservation. It may be signifi- cant that no other person mentioned trapping muskrats to Goldschmidt and Haas (1946). Now they are evi- dently of no importance. The rabbit, probably the snowshoe rabbit, Lepus americanus macfarlani, found all over Alaska except for the Alexander Archipelago, is a newcomer to the Yakutat area. The Dry Bay people were certainly familiar with the rabbit (gax) on their journeys up the Alsek, and among them "Big Rabbit" (Gax-tlen) was the name of a famous ThikwaxAdi shaman, and also of his nephew, the father of one of our informants. Rabbits are apparently not trapped, although tanned rabbi tsMns are purchased for use in trimming moccasins made for sale. There are still no porcupines, Erethizon epixanthum epixanthum, in the Yakutat or Dry Bay areas, although the Tlingit name refers to its 'sharp-pointed' quills (xatlagAts; Boas, 1917, p. 144, xllAlsAt's; Swanton, 1909, p. 220, kklA'tc). The Dry Bay people obtained quills or quilled garments on their trips up the Alsek. Other animals whose skins were prized but had to be obtained from the interior were the striped Arctic groundsquirrel, Spermophilius undulatus plesius (tsAlk) and the woodchuck or "gopher," Marmota monax ochra- cea (Boas, 1917, p. 158, tsilk). LaP6rouse (1799, vol. 1, IN THREE PARTS LAND AND ITS PEOPLE 39 p. 395) purchased some skins of the "Canadian marmot (monax)" at Lituya Bay, but his identification may be incorrect. Apparently the "groundhog" or hoary marmot, M. caligata caligata (sax; Boas, 1917, p. 125, lax), has been collected at Yakutat as well as in the interior, and its bones were represented in the site on Knight Island. One of my informants denied that there were any "groundhogs" on the coast; there were only a big one and a little one in the interior. However, an older woman spoke of seeing them at Dry Bay, and Minnie Johnson remembered how she had been frightened as a child by their "fuzzy hair." Yet they cannot be very common, for when one recently entered a fish camp on the Ahrnklin River, (a portentous omen in itself, when a wild animal approaches human beings), people were puzzled as to how such an upland animal had come to the shore country. Israel Russell (1891 b, p. 877) noted many marmots breeding among the nunataks near Marvine Glacier on the west side of Yakutat Bay. Other rodents in the Yakutat area are the Alaskan red squirrel, Tamiaseiurus hudsonicus petulans, dis- tributed from Lynn Canal to the northern limit of the spruce forest. Although Hall and Kelson (1959, map 257, p. 400) indicate an area on the Gulf Coast from Yakutat through Prince William Sound without squir- rels, the animal is now certainly common in and about the town. Informants mentioned them at the head of the Ahrnklin River and around Summit. Lake, east of Yakutat. Like small birds and other little animals of no economic value, they seem to be protected by taboo from molestation. The northern flying squirrel, Glau- comys sabrinus, seems to be absent from the Gulf Coast of Alaska, though found elsewhere in the spruce forests. Since it is nocturnal it may have escaped notice. Boas (1891, p. 181) recorded two words for squirrel: kan- atltsg'k (i.e., kAnaltltsak), and for the "small species" tlk-oqwe'tsa (i.e., tlqoxwetsA). Possibly the deer mouse or white-footed mouse, Peromyscus maniculatus, may occur at Yakutat, since varieties are found in the adjacent interior and in parts of southeastern Alaska. The Alaskan meadow jumping mouse, Zapus hudsonius alascensis, has actually been recorded from Yakutat and from Lynn Canal, but not from the Alexander Archipelago. The northern red- backed mouse, Clethrionomys rutilus, is of wide dis- tribution in Alaska and seems to be the common mouse at Yakutat where it is represented by C. r. dawsoni. Different races are found in southeastern Alaska, and C. r. watsoni is known only from Yakataga. A specially dark variety of the meadow mouse or vole, a species of wide distribution and many forms, is the tundra vole or Yakutat meadow mouse, Microtus oeconomus yakuta- tensis, found from Cross Sound to Cook Inlet, and recorded from the north shore of Yakutat Bay. The Olympic meadow mouse, M. mordax macrurus, a much larger variety, reaches the northern limit of its dis- tribution at Yakutat (Dufresne, 1946, p. 147). The long-tailed vole, M. longicaudus littoralis, has a similar distribution from Yakutat down the mainland of southeastern Alaska. True lemmings are absent, but the bog lemming or lemming mouse, Synaptomys borealis, seems to be found at Yakutat, although we cannot be sure whether it is the northern S. b. dalli or the southeastern Alaskan form, S. b. wrangeli, that is represented. Streator's masked shrew, Sorex cinereus streatori, has been taken at Yakutat, as has the Alaskan dusky shrew or vagrant shrew, S. vagrans alascensis. The widely distributed water shrew, S. palustris, and the singing vole, Microtus miurus, are among the forms absent from the Gulf Coast area. I do not know to what extent the Yakutat natives distinguish between these various species of small rodents. I was given two words for "mice": kutsin, the little animal whose whiter store of roots is taken when- ever these are found, and kagak. Swanton (1909, 134, 163, 277) gives the name kutsll'n or k!uts!i'n to the "mouse" and to a "rat" that seems to live in a hole under the water. Boas (1917, p. 162) renders "rat" as kutsin. Swanton (1909, p. 19) also gives the form kule'ltAlnl for "mouse," but I suspect that this is an adopted Athabaskan word meaning 'mouse-people,' the part meaning "mouse" being kulel. Swanton (1909, pp. 96, 282) translates kAga'q and kkgAk as "mouse" and "mole"; Boas (1917, p. 161) renders "mouse" as kagak. In 1891 (p. 179) Boas included "mouse" and "shrew" under the same two terms which we recorded. A summer migrant to the Yakutat area is the little brown bat, Myotis ludjugus alascensis, that lives in the dark forests. The Tlingit call it 'beaver-sea lion' (segeditan; Boas, 1917, p. 154, sAgedifan). One woman said that they fly around "when it's kind of dark . . . when it's going to be bad weather," but there seems to be no fear of them, except among those who have adopted this attitude from the Whites. One of the most important land animals for the natives along the Gulf Coast is the Alaska mountain goat, Oreamnos americanus, (djinuwu; Boas, 1917, p. 161, djAnwu). This is not a true goat, but a relative of the Asiatic goat-antelope and the European chamois and, like the latter, makes its home on the high crags and mountain slopes. It is a daring climber, can sit back on its haunches like a bear, and is rarely en- countered on the lowlands except in search of salt. Its flesh and fat are esteemed for food, its fat also serving as a cosmetic. Its wool is woven into blankets, and its horns shaped into spoons. A Mountain Goat Head was the crest of a Wolf sib of Wrangeli (Swanton, 1908, pp. 415-416), but otherwise it does not appear in 40 SMITHSONIAN CONTRIBUTIONS TO ANTHROPOLOGY VOLUME 7 Tlingit heraldry. While the mountain goat is hunted all along the coastal slopes of the Fairweather, Saint Elias, and Chugach Ranges, I am not sure of the exact boundary between the more northern race 0. a. ken- nedeyi and that of the southern O.a. columbiae. Bones from the site on Knight Island were not identified as to race. The mountain sheep, Ovis dalli (Boas, ]917, p. 161, ikwii), is not found on the coast, although Dall's sheep, O.d, dalli, together with its more southern, darker variety, 0. d. stonei, live along the interior slopes of the mountains from Cook Inlet to British Columbia, and some of the Yakutat and Dry Bay people who have gone into the interior are familiar with it. The moose, Alces alces gigas (tsisl;w; Harrington, tzfskw; Boas, 1917, p. 161, tsiskw) sometimes called 'large animal' (lAwan), has appeared only within the past few years on the coast. Moose were formerly hunted up the Alsek River by the Dry Bay people, but most natives at Yakutat are more afraid of the moose, even when not rutting, than they are of the huge bears. There seem to be quite a few of them around Situk and Lost Rivers. Although the caribou, Rangifer osborni, has never been found on the coast, it is known to the Tlingit and the skins are valued trade goods. It is called watsix (Boas, 1917, p. 155, wltsix). The black-tailed or mule deer, Dama hemionus siikensis, was introduced into Yakutat from south- eastern Alaska by the U.S. Government. However, the deer (kuwakan, usually pronounced gowakan; Boas, 1917, p. 156, q'uwakan) has been for the Tlingit the symbol of peaceful, unaggressive behavior, so that the hostage-ambassadors exchanged in peace ceremo- nies are called 'deer' by all the Tlingit. The Yakutat natives were therefore familiar with this word long before many of them had ever seen the animal. The domestic cow is now called xas, and Swanton (1908, pp. 400, 407, xas, xas!) translates this as 'moose' or 'cow,' "probably moose originally." One cannot but wonder whether the Tlingit ever had heard of the wood- land buffalo, since representations of the animal in Chilkat-blanket weaving (Emmons, 1908) resemble a bovine, not the moose, the horns being unmistakable. The only domesticated animal known to the Tlingit and Eyak in former days was the dog (ketl). Although fine, well-trained hunting dogs were prized, they were not pets, despite the affection which children might lavish upon puppies. An Athabaskan type dog (dzi, Swanton, 1909, p. 22) is mentioned in one story recorded by Swanton at Sitka; perhaps this is the small, agile "bear dog," but it may be a large pack-carrying animal. Long-eared dogs like spaniels are known as SAwak, but I believe that these were not known in early days. Dog bones of unidentified breed were found in the midden at Knight Island. Vancouver (1801, vol. 5, p. 396) mentions a deserted village near the mouth of the Ankau, where "about fifty dogs [that had been left behind] were making a most dreadful howling." While children often had young animals as pets or playthings, perhaps the first true pets were cats (due). These were probably introduced by the first American traders in the 1880's. At any rate, one girl is remembered to have obtained a cat in this way. Boas (1891, p. 175) reports that due is a Chinook jargon word. Other domesticated animals, such as cows, pigs, and chickens, if not briefly imported by the Russians, were introduced by the Mission. None of these now survive, perhaps because the cows and pigs were feared by the natives. SEA MAMMALS The northern sea otter, Enhydra lutris lutris, (yuxtc; Boas, 1917, p. 123, yAxutc) was the most important fur-bearing mammal in Alaskan waters. Long after it had become extinct in southeastern Alaska, and was hardly to be found along the Aleutian Islands, it was still hunted at Lituya Bay, Icy Bay, and off Cape Yakataga, until protected in 1911 by Federal legislation and international treaty. Its bones were represented in the site on Knight Island, and until harrassed by hunters it used to frequent Yakutat Bay. In historic times the natives sold the pelts and sometimes ate the flesh. One was seen in Monti Bay in February, 1954. The fur seal, Oallorhinus ursinus alsacensis, (xun; Boas, 1917, p. 163, iun), which is also protected by law, is occasionally seen at Yakutat. The herds gen- erally winter in more southern waters, coming north from mid-February to March, yet several lone individuals are said to have lived in Yakutat Bay throughout the winter of 1953-54, sleeping under the cannery dock. The natives believed that this was because of the quantities of smelt or smelt-like fish which first ap- peared in Monti Bay in 1952, and again returned the following winter. Related to the fur seal is the large northern sea lion, Eumentopias jubata, (tan) with thick hide useful for lines, and stiff whiskers. Some males are over 10 feet long and may weigh a ton, although the females are half the size. Although some natives are afraid of the huge beasts, especially since they are supposed to throw stones at people, the Yakutat natives formerly hunted them. Occasionally one will haul out of the water on a rock near the town, as we saw a young animal do in mid-September, 1952. Sea lions figure in the Tlingit story of Black Skin (Swanton, 1909, Tale 31, pp. 145-150; Tale 93) not so much as characters, but as animals to be killed, and in connection with this myth appear in crest carvings of some Raven sibs (Swanton, 1908, p. 418). IN THREE PARTS LAND AND ITS PEOPLE 41 The most common and most important sea mammal in Yakutat waters is the Pacific harbor seal, Phoca vitulina richardii, (tsa). This animal was the best represented of any species in the middens at the site on Knight Island. Seals breed particularly on the floating ice in Disenchantment and Icy Bays. It is uncertain whether the seal was the crest of any sib (Swanton, 1908, p. 416); it was certainly not so featured at Yakutat. The Pacific harbor porpoise or "puffing pig," Phocoena vomerina, (tcitc) also prefers the quiet waters near glaciers. Its bones appeared in the Knight Island site, and it was hunted by the Yakutat particularly for its sinew, for its strong-tasting flesh was regarded as poor-man's fare. It is the crest of a sib at Sitka. The larger, playful Dall's porpoise, Phocoenoides dalli, is the familiar porpoise often encountered in large schools leaping in front of a ship. This is probably the kind described to Swanton (1908, p. 458) as the largest kind, with a white dorsal fin and a white belly. It is called Igllwu' (Swanton, 1908, p. 458). There is also supposed to be a dark red porpoise (q'.an; i.e., ?an), but this has not been identified, if indeed, it is not mythological. Other members of the porpoise and dolphin family with which the Gulf Coast natives were probably familiar are Gray's porpoise, Stenella, styx; the northern right-whale dolphin, Lissodelphis borealis; and the Pacific white-sided dolphin, Lagenorhynchus obliquidens, all of which may reach lengths of 7 or 8 feet. The much larger Pacific blackfish, Globicephala scammonii usually travels in groups and may attain lengths of 16 feet. This was described as a whale like the kOlerwhale, but called sit! (Swanton, 1908, p. 416, slit!) and claimed as a crest by a southern Tlingit sib. The most important of all the porpoise family is the Pacific killerwhale or orca, Grampus rectipinna, the most savage and the largest. These ferocious predators, reaching lengths of up to 30 feet, and hunting in packs, are rightly feared and avoided by the Tlingit, at the same time forming an important crest. The natives distinguish between the ordinary killerwhale (kit) and three special varieties: the largest "heraldic" form which supposedly has a hole through the high dorsal fin (Swanton, 1908, p. 458, kit ylyagu'), a white killer- whale (kit wu), and a red killerwhale that always leads the pack and is called the killerwhale's spear (kit wusani; Swanton, 1908, p. 458, kit wusa'nt, kit caq!). At Yakutat the killerwhale as a crest was represented with the hole through the fin, and the small leader was mentioned. There are also many stories in which the animal appears. The Yakutat people know about the walrus, Odobenus divigens, ('adatsaq) and describe it as having two spears on the mouth. Olson (1936, p. 214) reported that 265^-517?72?vol. VII, pt. 1 5 the Yakutat used to obtain walrus hides which were traded to the Chilkoot Tlingit who used them for boats like umiaks which they kept on Lake Bennet for use when going to trade with the Tagish. One wonders, however, whether the hides were not those of sea lions. As far as I know the walrus is almost never seen south of the Alaska Peninsula. In the Gulf of Alaska are a number of whales, the fat and flesh of which were utilized when a carcass drifted ashore. They were not hunted. I do not know whether the natives distinguished between different species or called all by the single name (yay at Yakutat, yay at Dry Bay and farther south). References to Raven flying down the blowhole of the whale, and of a whale being killed when a stone lamp was thrown into the blowhole suggest that the Tlingit referred especially to the toothed, single-blowhole whale. This seems to be the kind painted as a crest on a house at Ketchikan (Gar- field and Forrest, 1948, fig. 29). The Whale is a crest of a sib represented at Yakutat and at Sitka. Among the toothed whales there is the sperm whale, Physeter catodon, essentially tropical, although the males may wander as far north as the Aleutians in summer, and sometimes attain a length of 60 feet. From 20 to 28 feet long are the related beaked whales, Mesoplodon stejnegeri, Ziphius cavirostris, and Berardius bairdii. These are apparently more rare than the sperm whale, and are seldom stranded on the shore. Baleen whales, charac- terized by double blowholes and the greater size of the female, are represented by the Pacific right whale, Eubalaena sieboldii, about 60-70 feet in maximum length, and once very numerous on the Fairweather Grounds; the enormous blue or sulphur-bottomed whale, Sibbaldus musculus, of which the giant female might attain a length of 100 feet; and the playful hump- backed whale, Megaptera novaeangliae, only half that size. There are also the fin-backed whale, Balaenoptera physalus, often encountered in groups; the migratory sei whale or lesser rorqual, B. borealis; and the solitary little piked whale or least rorqual, B. acutorostrata, with females ranging up to 80, 60, and 33 feet respectively. The gray whale, Eschrichtius gibbosus, which migrates from California to the Bering Sea and is now all but extinct, once was probably well known at Yakutat be- cause of its habit of following the shoreline and congre- gating in shallow bays. Amphibia Alaska has few amphibia and no reptiles (except for a few garter snakes which I believe have been recently 42 SMITHSONIAN CONTRIBUTIONS TO ANTHROPOLOGY VOLUME 7 imported). At Yakutat are found the wood frog, Rana sylvatica, and the larger boreal toad, Bufo boreas boreas. I do not know whether the natives distinguish between them, but the latter is probably "the Frog" (xixt6; Boas, 1917, p. 149, xrxte), an important sib crest at Yakutat and at Sitka. It should be noted that many Tlingit, men as well as women, have a horror of being touched by or even of seeing a frog. "The slime exuding from a frog's skin was thought to be very poisonous and fatal to smaller creatures" (Swanton, 1908, p. 457). Emmons (1903, p. 271) records "tadpole" as "kluck- kish" (tl'ukic??). Birds '? Yakutat is a land of many birds. These include the year-round residents, those that come only in summer to nest, that fly through to and from more northern or interior breeding grounds, that seek shelter in winter, and finally those birds that simply visit Yakutat as non- breeders. Gabrielson and Lincoln (1959), our authorities on Alaskan birds, estimate that some 321 species (or 414 races) have been found in the forty-ninth State, of which 162 species (233 races) are land birds, and 159 (181 races) are water birds, a very high proportion of the latter. Because Yakutat is on the Pacific Flyway we shall expect to find the majority of these waterfowl represented. Moreover, the varied terrain and the geo- graphical position of the Yakutat Bay area means that among both migrants and summer nesters there will be not only land birds characteristic of the Sitka spruce forest zone, but also some more familiar in the interior, as well as others that are particularly characteristic of open tundra or brushy swamplands. Obviously not all of the many birds seen by the Yakutat people are of interest to them, yet a number are sought for their flesh and for their feathers; others are believed to foretell the future or report bad news. Birds are among the most important sib crests, and may even be more important than mammals or fish in Tlingit mythology. As one of my informants put it: "The Creator was a bird" and "People came from birds" (pp. 857, 858). In general, the small songsters and young fledglings are protected by taboos. Unfor- tunately, it was not possible to secure information or native names for many of the common forms, since most of our informants found it very difficult to identify the pictures in Roger Tory Peterson's "Field Guide" (1941), which was the only handbook we had in the field, or could not give adequate descriptions of the birds which they named. Since no one has made any winter observations in the area, I shall include my own notes, beginning in mid-February 1954, well aware that this information is incomplete and may be inaccurate. The common loon, Gavia imrner, seems not only to breed but also to winter in the Yakutat area, while other members of the species fly through in May enroute to interior lakes. They like the clear sheltered waters of Monti Bay, Russell Fiord, and Situk Lake, but not silt-laden waters where they cannot see to fish. The red-throated loon, G. stellata, has much the same range and habits, although perhaps it does not winter north of Glacier Bay. The Pacific Arctic loon, G. arctica pacifica, also seems to breed in the area, but is more commonly seen when migrating north in April to early June or south again in September and October, to winter south of Cape Spencer. The yellow-billed loon, G. adamsi, nests in the Arctic, winters in south- eastern Alaska, and has been seen in Lituya and Yakutat Bays when migrating. The skin of the loon with its black feathers, if worn as a cap by an adolescent girl, would keep her hair from turning gray in old age. I was told that loons were called Ml, tlA&, and qaqit (kAgit?), but I do not know which species were so designated, nor whether any of the names applied to grebes.10 Perhaps it was loons that were described as "ducks called Always-crying-around-[the-bay] (YlkAga'xe)" (Swanton, 1909, pp. 39-40). Three grebes may be seen migrating through Yaku- tat. Holboell's red-necked grebe, Podiceps grisegena holboelli, flies north along the coast to breed from Kodiak to the Arctic Ocean. Since a few winter on Kodiak and the Aleutians, instead of southeastern Alaska, one might expect to see a few at Yakutat. The eared grebe, Colymbus nigricollis, is also a common migrant in May. The American horned grebe, Podiceps auritus cornutus, nests on interior lakes and winters in southeastern Alaska and farther south, so should also be seen passing in late April and May, and again from September to early November. Grebes, like loons, go to fresh water for nesting, but rest and fish on the sheltered waters of Monti Bay. Two species of cormorant (yuqw; Swanton, 1909, p. 129, yuq) breed at Cape Enchantment in Russell Fiord and at a place called "Cormorants' Cliff" in Nunatak Fiord. They roost at Point Latouche, and at 9 This section is based primarily upon Gabrielson and Lincoln, 1959, plus the observations published by Shortt, 1939. Peterson, 1941, was consulted in the field, and valuable information was secured later from Rhode and Barker, 1953, and Lincoln, 1950. 10 Boas, (1917, p. 129) renders the heron as IXi; and (1891) the loon as cuwa'n, and "Colymbus qlacialis," evidently a grebe, Podiceps sp., as qAge'it (to modernize the orthography). Naish and Story (1963, p. 21) give the words kugeet (kAglt) and yeekugaxee (yikAgaxi) for the loon, and chax (tea*) for grebe or "diving bird." IN THREE PARTS LAND AND ITS PEOPLE 43 Logan Bluff south of it, and dry their wings on the reef off Knight and Fitzgerald Islands in Yakutat Bay. On May 10, 1954, hundreds were resting o n the reef at the southern end of Khantaak Island. The Northern pelagic cormorant, Phalacrocorax pelagicus pelagicus, is a year-round resident, breeding from the Aleutians to British Columbia. The northwestern double-crested cormorant, P. auritus cincinatus, also breeds as far north as the Aleutians and is a common winter visitor in southeastern Alaska. The Cormorant figures in the story of how Kaven killed the Bears, which was localized by Swanton's Sitkan informant as near Mount Saint Elias (Swanton 1909, Tale 1, pp. 6-8). Swans (goqtl or gtrql; Swanton, 1909, p. 112, goql) were once common at Yakutat, and were shot for their meat and for their soft skins. I doubt that the bird was the whistling swan, Olor columbianus, which breeds in the north but winters in southeastern Alaska and on the Aleutians, for it generally takes an inland route and is not common on the coast. It was probably the larger trumpeter swan, 0. buccinator, which breeds behind the Saint Elias Range or on the lower Copper River and winters in southeastern Alaska. One of the Coast Guardsmen at the Loran Station near Yakutat reported in mid-February, 1954, that there were many trumpeter swans on the Ankau lagoons. Swanton (1908, pi. LIII &> e>J> P- 417) reports the Swan as a crest of two sibs represented at Dry Bay and Yakutat. Swans (Swanton, 1909, p. 112) are also mentioned casually in a myth. The Canada goose, Branta canadensis, (t'awAq; Swanton, 1909, p. 112, t!awA'q) has been reported nesting at Situk Lake. In addition, large flocks of this species, especially B. c. occidentalis, that breed on the Copper River flats and in Prince William Sound, are seen in Yakutat Bay on their spring migration, as are probably the lesser snow goose, Chen hyperborea hyper- borea, and the Pacific white-fronted goose, Anser albifronsfrontalis, both of which nest far north. Indeed, a snow goose was reported on the Ankau lagoons from early December to late February, 1953-54. The Canada Goose is the crest of a Sitka sib (Swanton, 1908, p. 417), and Swanton (1909, p. 405) reports that a "wild goose" was called yaduste? (yadusteq!). Emmons (1903, p. 275) gives the name "khin" (i.e., qin) to "the gray goose, Anser albifrons gambeli," evidently the white- fronted goose, A. a.jrontalis. However, Swanton (1909, p. 112, qen), assigns what is evidently the same word to the black brant; Branta nigricans. Although the latter normally crosses the open Gulf and so is probably not often seen at Yakutat, it is known in southeastern Alaska. On the other hand, Boas (1917, p. 128) gives the name q'm to the shoveler.11 At Yakutat, both fresh and saltwater ducks were eaten. ? Naiah and Story (1963, p. 21) identify kin (qin) simply as "brant (small grouse)." The dabbling ducks are represented by the mallard, Anas platyrhynchos platyrhynchos, the green-winged common teal, A. crecca carolinensis, and pintail, A. acuta, all of which seem to be fairly common at Yakutat, probably breeding and wintering here. All three were at the Ankau lagoons in March, 1954, and were said to be around "most of the time." The mallard is the most numerous, and is known as 'upward arrow' (kmde tcunEt) from its manner of taking off. The American widgeon or baldpate, Mareca americana, also nests at Yakutat but winters farther south. When at Yakutat in 1837, Belcher (1843, vol. 1, p. 85) purchased a goose and a "small blue-winged duck," possibly a blue-winged teal, Anas discors, or a shoveler, Spatula clypeata, both of which occur in southeastern Alaska. The latter certainly breeds on the Copper River flats and probably also at Yakutat, although it has not actually been reported there. Among the diving ducks is Barrow's golden eye, Bucephala islandica, that breeds on Situk River, Situk Lake, Disenchantment Bay, as well as on the pond behind Yakutat, where I saw two females with their drakes and later with their young, as well as a female mallard and her brood in the spring of 1954. The golden eye is called 'fresh-water black duck' (hinyi gAxu). There are also the bufflehead, Bucephala, albeola, breeding and probably to some extent residing in Yakutat; the harlequin duck, Histrionicus histrionicus, (Boas, 1891, p. 174, tsutsk) a year-round resident; old squaw, Clangula hyernalis, common during migration and represented by a few non-breeders during the summer; and the canvasback, Ayihya valisineria, which migrates to the Copper River. The greater scaup, A. marila nearctica, might also be seen during migra- tion, and as a summer nonbreeder and winter resident. The surf scoter, Melanitta perspicillata, seems to be the most abundant scoter in early May, later reported breeding in Disenchantment Bay and Russell Fiord, although most go far inland to nest. The western white- winged scoter, M. deglandi dixoni, apparently breeds in the bay in summer and is perhaps resident in winter. The American scoter, Oidemia nigra americana, is the least common of the three, but some nonbreeders sum- mer at Yakutat. Scoters, in particular the surf scoter (cf. Boas, 1891, p. 180; 1917, p. 157, gA'xu), is the 'black duck' of our informants (gAxw, or fiitc gAxw; Swanton, 1909, p. 208, gaxw). The white-winged scoter must be what Boas' informants called 'white on wing' (1891, p. 180, kite ka ru; i.e., kite kA yu). The American merganser, Mergus merganser ameri- canus, seems to be a very common year-round resident from Prince William Sound southward, particularly frequenting streams. The red-breasted merganser, M. serrator serrator, has been observed in Yakutat only 44 SMITHSONIAN CONTRIBUTIONS TO ANTHROPOLOGY VOLUME 7 in May, but winters in southeastern Alaska. Boas (1891, p. 179) calls it 'water rim' (hin yikag-u'; i.e., hin yikagu. The merganser, Lophodytes cucul- latus, although much rarer in Alaska, is perhaps the bird described as having a white breast, a "white jigger on each side of the head" (i.e., crest), and that "always goes upstream." 12 This may serve to remind us of Shortt's hilarious descent of the Situk, preceded by all the squawking mergansers on the river (Shortt, 1939, pp. 9-10). One of my informants identified the merganser as a "saw bill," and gave it the name, qax (Naish and Story, 1963, p. 21, kax (qax)). The American osprey or fish hawk, Pandion haliaetus carolinensis, (Swanton, 1909, p. 116, kunackAnye't) is a rather uncommon nester along the Situk River, but also breeds in southeastern Alaska. Among the various wading birds, the northwestern great blue heron, Ardea herodias fannini, (1A?, Boas, 1917, p. 159) is the largest. Although not very common, it is a year-round resident from Cook Inlet to Wash- ington, and has been reported nesting at Humpback Creek on Yakutat Bay. Another large wader, but found on the marshes and tundra, is the lesser sandhill crane, or "little brown crane", Grus canadensis canadensis, (dul; Boas 1917, p. 156, dill). It breeds on the northern mainland and, while rare in Tlingit country, figures both as a crest at Yakutat and in mythology (Swanton, 1909, Tale 54, Tale 100). The black oystercatcher, Haematopus bachmani, a striking black shore bird with red bill specialized for eating mollusks is known to my informants as 'nose-fire' (lugin). The men who showed them to me on the north- ern shore of Haenke Island in early June, 1952, said that they were found only on this island, although Shortt had found them nesting on nearby Osier Island. LaPerouse (1799, vol. 1, p. 395) saw them nesting in Lituya Bay. They are year-round residents of south- western and southeastern Alaska. Swanton's Wrangell informant (1909, p. 85, higA'n) described the oyster- catcher, or perhaps the horned puffin, as a bird that lives far out at sea on lonely rocks. The small waders of the shore and marshlands include a number of snipes, sandpipers, and related species. 12 My identification of this bird as the hooded merganser proved wrong since Naish and Story (1963, p. 20) give the name hinyik l'eixee (hmyik 1'exf) to the water ouzel. Naish and Story (1963, p. 20) give the following terms for ducks: the forms, as written in my orthography, are in paren- theses. Duck, in general, is simply gaxw (gax"). Bufflehead is hintuk x'wus'gee (hintAk ??As?i); flathead duck, s'elusheesh (SEIACIC, or perhaps SEIAC-'JC) ; goldeneye, hinyik g&xoo (hinyik gaxu); harlequin duck, s'6s' (&us); mallard, kinduchooneit (kindA-teune't); old squaw, ya.a.oone'h (ya'a'un^); scoter, wukkuls'6ox' g&xw (wAqkAlsui g?xw) orluk'eech'w6h (Ukitcwtr). The largest of these are the greater and lesser yellowlegs, Totanus melanoleucus and T. jlairipes, which both breed in the Yakutat area, especially along the flats near the mouth of the Situk and Lost Eivers, although they winter far to the south. The wandering tatler, Hetero- scelus incanus, migrates through Yakutat, going north in May and returning in late July, as does the long- billed dowitcher, Limnodromus scolopaceus. The some- what smaller Alaskan short-billed dowitcher, L. griseus caurinus, nests on the Situk muskegs as does Wilson's common snipe, Capella gaUinago delicata. For the last two, Yakutat seems to represent the southern boundary of their summer home on the coast, although they occur farther south in other regions. The European knot, Calidris canutus canutus, breeds farther north and presumably flies over Yakutat, although we do not know whether it has one of its definite stopping places in the Yakutat Bay area. Such small birds with long bills are called 'nose- spear' (lu-'ada),a term applied to "snipes"; to pictures of the curlew and the avocet. The last was also called 'cloud-nose-poked' (gus-lu-gtrq), referring to the story of how Raven escaped the Flood by donning the skin of a bird with a long bill, by means of which he hung from the sky (cf. Swanton, 1909, Tale 31, p. 120). Here this is an unidentified "white bird with copper- colored bill." In a popular Tlingit song, "snipes" are the '[birds] that fly around the island' (iat! dayi djayi). According to Boas (1891, p. 177) the 'heaven bird' (gutsre totli, i.e. gusye totH; Swanton, 1909, pp. 86, 207, guslyaduh'; p. 214, gusliaduh', 'crane of the cloud's surface'?) is Wilson's common snipe, seen only when warm weather is coming, a robin-sized bird that visits a rock far out at sea. Most of the small sandpipers are seen at Yakutat only as spring and late summer or fall migrants, often appearing in mixed flocks together with turnstones and surf birds, that gather, for example, along the shores of Khantaak Island in Monti Bay. These migrants include the red-backed dunlin, Erolia alpina pacifica; rock or western purple sandpiper, E. ptilocnemis; pectoral sandpiper, E. melanotus; western solitary sandpiper, Tringa solitaria einnamonae; and the western sandpiper, Ereunetes mauri. Of the last species, a few nonbreeders may remain in the Situk area all summer. The little spotted sandpiper, Actitis rnacularia, and the tiny least sandpiper, Erolia minutilla, are fairly common breeders on the coastal plain southeast of Yakutat, and many also fly through to nesting areas farther north. The solitary sandpiper (Boas, 1891, p. 182, ayahl'a; Swan- ton, 1909, pp. 180, 140, ayahi'ya, ayAhiyiya') is "a great dancer," "a solitary bird that continually flies about the beach", "a lonely beach snipe . . . 'looking for his wife.' ". IN THREE PARTS LAND AND ITS PEOPLE 45 I suspect that among the sandpipers are included some of the "birds that fly around the island." This name was also given to a semipalmated plover, Cha- radrius semipalmatus, that we saw on the road in Yaku- tat in May, 1954. This bird apparently nests on the sand dunes along the ocean beach southeast of Yakutat, as well as on the edge of the Malaspina and nearby glaciers, wintering in California. The black-bellied plover, Sguatarola sguatarola, has been seen migrating to and from its tundra nests. The kiUdeer, Charadrius vociferus, is a nonbreeding straggler to the Situk flats. Naish and Story (1963, p. 22) recorded the following words for "sandpiper (shore bird)" at Angoon, but seem to have had difficulties in establishing exact designation of the species: Curlew, uyuheeyah ('A.J- Ahiya); plover, x'ut'dah yeejeiyee (xAtida yidjeyi) or x'ut'dah yeejuyee (yidJAyi); snipe, eek lokukees'ee ('iq lukAqisi); but all are "sandpipers." The surf bird, Aphriza virgata, the European turn- stone, Arenaria interpes interpes, and the black turn- stone, A. melanocephala, (sus) are migrants through Yakutat, often in company with sandpipers. The black turnstone possibly nests in the area, since it breeds from Seward Peninsula to Sitka and winters in south- eastern Alaska. It has given its name to Khantaak Island (suskA, 'on the turnstone'), where it is common in May. We saw them on Knight Island in mid-August, 1952. The northern phalarope, Lobipes lobatus, a small shore bird like a sandpiper, also breeds on the Situk marshes, but may feed in rough water among the offshore kelp. Vast flocks can be seen flying north to the Arctic in early May and returning again in July. Among the most conspicuous water birds in the Yakutat area are the gulls (ketlAdi; Boas 158, ke^adi, i.e., ke'dladi). One of my informants thought that the name was derived from 'puppy' (ketl yAdi) because of their cries. The most common species and a year-round resident is the glaucous-winged gull, Laurus glaucescens. They hang about the cannery dock and breed in Disenchant- ment Bay, especially on Haenke Island and the moraine- covered edge of Hubbard Glacier where the eggs are gathered by the natives in May or early June. The American herring gull, L. argentatus smithsonianus, also breeds here, but winters farther south. It is, I believe, the gull named for its colored wing-tip (kitc-A&a-nes). The short-billed gull, L. canus brachyrhynchus, is a common nester in the marshes near Yakutat, but winters south of Cape Spencer. The little Bonaparte's gull, L. Philadelphia, with red feet and black head comes early in May to nest in low conifers and to feed on shrimps near the glaciers in Disenchantment Bay. This is probably the small gull called kekw, described as having a black head and white body (Swanton 1909, p. 116, kek!u). The large glaucous gull, L, hyperboreus, and the very small sabine's gull, Xema sabini, both breed in the north but fly across the Gulf, and a few nonbreeding glaucous gulls may summer at Yakutat. The Mttiwake, Rissa tridaetyla pollicaris, (I'e'q*). seems to breed occasionally near Yakutat and may also winter there, although really an oceanic bird. The Arctic tern with red bill, Sterna paradisaea, is very common at Yakutat, nesting on the sand dunes near the mouth of the Situk or on the gravelly moraines of the Malaspina. They are especially numerous in late April or early May and again in late July when the northern breeders are moving across the Gulf to and from their winter homes in the Antarctic. Occasion- ally the black-billed Aleutian tern, S. aleutica, may shift from its Asiatic home to establish temporary colonies on the Situk flats or at Dry Bay. Terns are locally known as "sea pigeons," and are given a Tlingit name which refers to their forked tail (kutl'itl; Swanton, 1908, p. 116, kuile'ta, i.e., kutl'Eta. We have seen them nesting on the beaches of Khantaak and Knight Islands, where the natives gather the eggs, despite the savage dive-bombing attacks of the parent birds. Auks, murres, and puffins, are represented by the common pigeon guillemot, Cepphus columba columba, that commonly breeds on the islands in Yakutat Bay. They are conspicuous in summer with their black bills, red feet, and black plumage except for the white area at the base of the wings. They hide their eggs in caves and crannies on sea cliffs and dive for marine worms and mollusks. LaPerouse (1799, vol. 1, p. 395) noted the red-footed guillemot in Lituya Bay. Possibly these are the birds called "black ducks" (see scoters). The American marbled murrelet, Brachyramphus marrnoratum, and Kittlitz's murrelet, B. brevirostris, are also common, often seen together in the sheltered waters of Disenchantment Bay. The first is a year- round resident, but no one knows where the second spends the winter, probably far out at sea. The ancient murrelet, Synthliaboramphus antiquum, breeds from the Aleutians to the Queen Charlotte Islands, but apparently moves during the night far out to sea as soon as the young are hatched, and is rarely seen in the winter. The winter plumage of all three species and the summer dress as well of the ancient murrelet were identified by our informants as that of the sea bird (t6it), a crest of many Wolf sibs. In one of their songs at Yakutat, the Raven is supposed to be afraid that it will come ashore. Emmons (Swanton, 1909, p. 415) identified this also as the murrelet, a small bird that makes a whistling sound; Boas (1891, p. 172, t6it) specifies that it is the marbled murrelet. The dull speckled summer dress of the latter and of Kittlitz's murrelet, however, seems to fit the bird described as a "saltwater duck, like a grebe, like a loon," with a small 46 SMITHSONIAN CONTRIBUTIONS TO ANTHROPOLOGY VOLUME 7 neck, spotted gray and white. It was specifically said to lay eggs on Hazel and Coronation Islands in south- eastern Alaska. It can dive like a merganser or "saw bill." Eaven put his mother in its skin during the Flood, and our informants called it tcax or tsax. This is evidently the sea bird and great diver, cax, (Swanton, 1909, p. 119), which the Tlingit are said not to eat, because "it was Raven's mother." The name, "they just ruffle up the water" when they fly (hin xokatsitsi), was also applied to the murrelets, but may (also?) apply to the guillemot. The rhinoceros auklet, Cerorhinca, monocerata, (xik, i.e., xik, Naish and Story, 1963, p. 22) has been seen at Yakutat Bay. Cassin's auklet Ptychoramphus aleutica, possibly comes here also, but since auklets are nocturnal these are not important. Puffins (xik; Swanton, 1909, p. 50, xtk) seem to be a crest of two of the Raven sibs (Swanton, 1908, p. 401, pi. LIII g). While the tufted puffin, Lunda eirrhata, has been recorded fromYakutat only in May and from the Gulf of Alaska during sum- mer, those which I saw on Haenke Island, June 10, 1952, were the horned puffin or "sea parrot," Fratercula corniculata, which includes southwestern and south- eastern Alaska within its breeding and wintering range. The name 'nose-fire' was also applied to this bird because of its large red bill (see oyster-catcher), and at Angoon to the tufted puffin (Naish and Story, 1963, p. 22). The parasitic jaeger, Stercorarius parasiticus, breeds in Yakutat Bay, especially along the Malaspina Glacier. The long-tailed and pomerine jaegers, S. longicaudus and S. pomarinus, nest farther north but are occasionally seen as migrants or as nonbreeding summer visitors. A bird that lives on the outer islands of southeastern Alaska and is the puffin's slave is lAgwa'tc!; as is also the sea gull, but these were not identified by my in- formants (Swanton, 1909, pp. 57, 58). Nor do I know what bird that lives far out at sea was called tsAgwa'n (Swanton, 1909, p. 109), for this name was given by one of my informants to the wren. Among the pelagic birds, the black-footed albatross or "goony," Diomedea nigripes, that nests on Midway Island and on other islands of the central North Pacific, may be seen on the Gulf of Alaska during the summer, usually following vessels. Sometimes they come close to shore and may even enter Icy Straits. The Yakutat people undoubtedly knew them, and also the now all but extinct Steller's short-tailed albatross, D. albatrus, that visits the Gulf between March and October but nests in the western North Pacific. The sooty sheer- water or "whale bird," Puffinus griseus, also visits Alaskan waters in the summer, usually coming closer inshore than the albatross. It has been recorded at Yakutat as well as farther south. The Pacific fulmar, Fulmarus glacialis rodgersi, that breeds on the Aleutians as well as on the Asiatic shores, has been regularly seen off the coast of Yakutat. Some of these may perhaps be the "sea birds whose voices can be heard at a distance," or 'crying in the deep' (ikAga'xe, Swanton, 1909, p. 135). The stormy petrels are represented by the fork-tail petrel, Oceanodroma furcata, and the smaller Leach's petrel, O. leucorhoa, both of which have northern races breeding in the Aleutians and which presumably cross the Gulf of Alaska, and southern forms that nest in southeastern Alaska, especially on the outer islands. These are evidently the Petrel (ganuk), who figures in the creation myths as older than Raven, as guardian of fresh water, and as owner of the hat that makes fog (cf. Swanton, 1909, pp. 10, 83). He belongs to the opposite moiety from Raven. The Yakutat people know this story, and have often seen petrels on the Gulf of Alaska or found birds that have been blown ashore by storms. The most striking and conspicuous birds at Yakutat are the resident crows and jays. First place should be given to the northern Steller's jay, Cyanocitta stelleri stdleri, if only because this bird revealed to Bering's naturalist that he had indeed reached the New World at Kayak Island in 1741. This "Bluejay" (?ECX; Boas, 1917, p. 129, &?cxu) is recognized as a "good talker," with "fine clothes," and furthermore gives his name to the color purple or dark blue (Swanton, 1909, p. 86). In native eyes, however, his big relative, the northern raven, Corvus corax principalis, (yel) is certainly the most important, since Raven is the Creator or Trickster- transformer of mythology, and the major crest of one moiety. Shortt (1939, p. 23) found the raven abundant at Yakutat, probably because the cannery was then in full operation and there was plenty of offal to eat. Ravens were less numerous during my visits, although they were about during the winter and spring of 1954, and a flock of at least seven visited a garbage dump beside our house on August 27, 1952, parading down the main street. They nest either in the woods or on the bare rocks of Disenchantment Bay. In June, 1954, one Indian family brought home a young raven as a pet, and during the winter of 1954 a tame adult lived in the attic of a house, coming and going as he pleased through the open window. His smaller relative, the northwestern crow, Corvus caurinus, or possibly the American crow, C. brachyrhyncho, is also a resident. It is recognized as a noisy talker (Swanton 1909, p. 86), and the Crow (tsAxw61) is a crest of a Yakutat Raven sib. Crow eggs, found by children on Khantaak Island, May 19, are said to have hatched in their pockets! The American black-billed magpie, Pica pica hud- sonia, (tse^ene; Swanton, 1909, pp. 6, 125, tslegenf, tslintge'nl, or djegenl'k) was common about Yakutat IN THREE PARTS LAND AND ITS PEOPLE 47 during the winter, coming with blue jays, crows, varied thrushes, and fox sparrows to the feeder which we established on our porch in early March, 1954. We saw magpies flocking in the deep woods on March 14, and shortly afterwards they disappeared, probably moving up the bay or farther north to nest. The natives say that they leave because they don't like salmon milt, and therefore remain away while the salmon are spawning. They are sometimes called "Raven's Arrow," and are recognized as a handsome bird. The northern bald eagle, Haliaeetus leucocephalus alascanus, is conspicuous and common, nesting in high trees, but probably retires to southeastern Alaska during the winter. The Eagle (teak) is a crest of the Wolf moiety among the northern Tlingit. Rare, but important as a sib crest, is the American golden eagle, Aguila chrysaetos canadensis, (gidjuk; Boas, 1917, p. 157, gidjilk' "fish hawk"). It nests almost exclusively in the interior, leaving for the south in September and returning in March or April. Shortt (1939, p. 11) saw a single pair nesting on the cliffs of Mount Tebenkof and hunting marmots above 1,000 feet. The Golden Eagle which became a totemic crest was originally met on a mountainside above the Ahmklin River, and had come from the other side of the Saint Elias Range to hunt for "groundhogs" (sax). The name (gidjuk) does not apply to a hawk. Hawks of the Yakutat area are the northwestern sharp-shinned hawk, Accipiter striatusperobscurus, which comes to the wooded areas near Situk Lake and Mala- spina Glacier to breed, and the eastern goshawk, A. gentilis atricapillus, which also nests in the thick woods of the Situk area, although it breeds primarily in the interior. Both of these attack and eat other birds. Less common but present are the Alaskan red-tailed hawk, Buteo jamaicensis cdaskensis, and the American rough-legged hawk, B. lagopus s. johannis, which eat small rodents. The peregrine falcon or duck hawk, Falco peregrinus, and the pigeon hawk, F. columbarius, have both been noted at Yakutat. An informant told us that all hawks, gray and black, as well as other kinds, were called kAkw This name probably refers especially to the goshawk or "chicken hawk" (Swanton, 1909, p. 11, k!Aku) that is said to have procured fire. In another episode recorded by Swanton (1909, p. 17, CAk!A'ku), Raven's companion who throws him down the mountain in a box seems to be a mountain hawk, although our Yakutat version does not ascribe this role to such a bird. Boas (1891, p. 175, qeq, i.e., xex) records a Tlingit name for the rare but widely distributed American marsh hawk, Circus cyeneus hudsonius, but I do not know whether it ever comes to Yakutat. The butcher bird or northwestern shrike, Lanius excubitor invictus, an energetic predator that hangs its victims on thorns or twigs, should be found in the Yakutat area for this would seem to lie within its breeding and wintering range. Is it the maneating bird (kigit) that cries "ho-6, ho-6" in the Chilkat myth explaining the origin of mosquitoes (Boas, 1917, p. 173), or is the latter a loon? Several owls may be encountered in the Yakutat area. There are the northwestern great horned owl, Bubo virgininius lagophonus, that is resident all year round, and the great grey owl, Strix nebulosa nebulosa, probably also resident. It is the first of these that Boas (1891, p. 175, tsiskw) identified as "the" owl (tiskw; Boas, 1917, p. 126, tsuslsu; Swanton 1909, p. 300, tse'sk!u), although perhaps this name can be given to any species. Although the snowy owl, Nyctea sca/ndia, (Boas, 1891, p. 180, kwakw), breeds on the northern tundra, it may visit any part of Alaska during the fall and winter. It was one of these, sometimes called 'interior owl' (dAqkA tiskw) that was around Yakutat in February and March, 1954, "telling bad news," which all owls do. The screech owl, Otus asio kennicottii, although ranging sometimes as far north as Yakutat and resident south of Sitka, is rare in Alaska. Yet this bird is believed to have been once a woman who was mean to her mother-in-law (Swanton, 1909, Tale 37, pp. 176-177). I was told that there was probably a screech owl near the Ankau lagoons in March, 1954. One or two of the larger owls were, I believe, the two sisters transformed because they were greedy, according to a Yakutat story. The Owl is a sib crest. The northern short-eared owl, Asio flammeus jlammeus, is a common summer nester on the Situk flats, coming north in April and lingering until the end of September. It is a daytime hunter of mice, itself attacked by other birds. Probably the hawk owl, Surnia ulula, another day-flying owl, may be found here, since Yakutat is within its range. The coast pygmy owl, Glaucidium gnoma grinnetti, that lives in holes in trees and hunts small birds and insects in the daytime, has been heard in the woods near Situk Lake.13 The Pacific varied thrush, Ixoreus naevius naevius' with especially brilliant markings, is a characteristic Yakutat bird. The first we saw was on March 3, 1954, when they began to be regular visitors to our feeder. Later in the spring, their whistled double note re- sounded through the woods. Apparently they leave in September or October, but may occasionally stay in southeastern Alaska. I do not know if they winter 13 Naish and Story (1963, pp. 21-22) _ call the "owl with ear tufts" tBfskw (tsfs??) or dzlsk'w (dzfskr); the owl "without ear tufts" k'ukw ?|?.kw); and a "small owl" tlenx' sh-x'uneit (tlfini c-xAnet) or xgex (xfx). The first two names correspond to those recorded bv Boas. 48 SMITHSONIAN CONTRIBUTIONS TO ANTHROPOLOGY VOLUME 7 in Yakutat. An informant identified this bird from a colored plate in Peterson (1941) as the 'bird on the mountain' (cakA tsitskw), said to stay in the moun- tains but to come around the beaches when there is a strong north wind. This identification seems hardly correct, but reminds me of the bird that is never seen unless the north wind is going to blow (xunkAha', i.e., 'moving on the north wind,' Swanton, 1909, p. 86). Possibly this name applies to some other thrush, or to the waxwing (see p. 49). The little Alaska hermit thrush, Hylocichla guttata guttata, also breeds abundantly at Yakutat, arriving about the middle of May and remaining until Septem- ber. The northern gray-cheeked thrush, H. minima minima, comes still later in the season and leaves earlier, nesting along the willows and alders fringing streams from the Malaspina and other glaciers. Swain- son's thrush, H. ustulata, may perhaps come to Yakutat, since some races nest at Glacier Bay, in the interior, and farther north. The eastern robin, Turdus migratorius migratorius, flies all the way from Florida and the Gulf States to nest at Yakutat. The first were seen on April 4, 1954, and they apparently remain until September or Oc- tober. From Glacier Bay south, the western robin, T. m. eaurinus, is found in summer and occasionally in winter. According to one story (Swanton, 1909, p. 85), it is the robin (cuxw) who scorched his breast, and who makes people happy with his whistling. Another bird that gladdens men (Swanton, 1909, p. 86) is the rufous hummingbird, Selaphorus rufus, that comes from its Mexican home in April or early May to remain until late in August. I saw the first on April 13, and there were many in May, 1954. One informant called them tcAkitkiya (Boas, 1917, p. 154, dAwltgiya), and correctly noted the time of their arrival. Another called them tSAgAtgiya and said that to find their nest means riches. The western belted kingfisher, Megaceryle alcyon caurina, (ttixAnlss, Boas 155, laxln&s) is a common nester about Yakutat and may possibly winter there. On April 18, 1954, we saw a pair near the Old Village of Yakutat, on the same tree where I had seen them in the summers of 1949 and 1952. The behavior of the kingfisher is said to foretell the acquisition of wealth. More common along the mountain than the lowland streams is the northern dipper or water ouzel, Cinclus mexicanus unicolor. It seems to be resident in the Yakutat area, perhaps up the bay. This may be the bird called hinyik tl'ek. In one Yakutat myth (p. 878), it guides the hero downstream from heaven. This bird (hinyik tl'ek; Swanton, 1909, p. 117, hinyik le'xi) also appears in another story as "an industrious bird . . . a fishing bird living along the river," whom Raven calls "brother-in-law." The woodpecker, 'he strikes wood' (kfnda da guq; Boas 1891, p. 183, 'picks around the bark,' gan da da guq') may bring bad luck. The northern hairy wood- pecker, Dendrocopos villosus septentrionalis, the small Valdez downy woodpecker, D. pubescens glacialis, and the northern three-toed woodpecker, Picoides tridadylus jasciaius, are all apparently year-round residents of the Yakutat area, although only the first is common. This was probably the woodpecker reported in the woods near the Ankau lagoons in March, and seen in the village on April 4,1954. The woodpeckers I noted among the alders and willows on Haenke Island, June 18, 1952, may possibly have been the three-toed species, since it is more often seen in the interior, where such brush is common, than on the coast. The related boreal yellow-shafted flicker, Colaptes auratus borealis, is common in the interior, but is also known from Yakutat. The northwestern red-shafted flicker, C. cajer cajer, is the species of southeastern Alaska. The Flicker (kun) is valued for its beautiful feathers, is associated in mythology with the wife of the Controller of the Flood (cf. Swanton, 1909, p. 119), is a house name for two Wolf sibs (Swanton, 1908, pp. 400, 401), and is supposed to be the head of the next to smallest birds, yet is very seldom seen (Swanton, 1909, p. 85). The Rocky Mountain brown creeper, Certhia famili- aris montana, is an apparently rather common resident at Yakutat. It is a quiet bird that climbs trees looking for insect food (see Bohemian waxwing, p. 49). The western winter wren, Troglodytes troglodytes padficus, is a common but elusive resident of south- eastern Alaska and the Gulf Coast area. They probably winter at Yakutat, although the first that I saw were a pair on May 3, 1954. One of my informants called the wren tsAgwan, although this was the name given by a Wrangell man (Swanton, 1909, pp. 108-109) for a bird that lives far out at sea. At Sitka the wren is called the "bird that can go through a hole" (wu'lnAx- wu'ckAq, Swanton, 1909, p. 17). The elusive western flycatcher, Empidomax difficilis, has been reported from Yakutat but is normally found nesting in the interior or on the coast south of Cape Spencer. The eastern nighthawk, Chordeiles minor minor, also breeds in the interior and perhaps in southeastern Alaska, wintering in South America. Although only one has been actually recorded from the Yakutat area, it is worth mentioning since I believe this was the 'Sleep' Bird (ta) killed by a Hoonah Indian because it kept him awake by flying around his head while he was trying to rest in his canoe one night. The behavior is characteristic. This story (cf. Swanton, 1909, Tales 32 and 104) is especially linked with the discovery of the Dry Bay Athabaskans by the Tlingit, and explains IN THREE PARTS LAND AND ITS PEOPLE 49 how a Raven sib obtained the Sleep Bird as a crest. Among other insect-eaters we should mention the Sitka ruby-crowned kinglet, Begulus calendula grinnelli, as common in summer in the Yakutat forests, and the northwestern golden-crowned kinglet, B. satrapa oliva- ceus, which is a year-round resident here, as well as in southeastern Alaska. These are both tiny birds, about 4 inches long, and may therefore be the "very respect- able bird," "about the size of a butterfly," whose voice is heard, but which is seen only when people are to have good luck (ko!ai' Swanton, 1909, p. 86). This iden- tification is not completely satisfying, for the little kinglets are by no means inconspicuous in the fall and winter, but then, of course, this is the season for potlatches! The northern chestnut-backed chickadee, Parus rujescens rufescens, is a common resident of the east side of Yakutat Bay, while the Yukon black-capped chickadee, P. atricapillus turneri, lives on the west side along the timbered moraine of the Malaspina. Other- wise, it is essentially a bird of the interior. The chickadee represents and is called 'someone's thoughts' (qatuwu). The Bohemian waxwing, Bombycilla garrula pallidi- ceps, breeds in the interior but may appear in south- eastern Alaska in the late summer, fall, or winter, sometimes in great numbers, so we should expect them at Yakutat. One wonders if these are the small gre- garious birds with greenish-yellow feathers that find their food on the tops of trees and that are carved by the Tlingit as one of the two main pieces in a set of gambling sticks. Their name seems to mean 'flying- among-the-treetops' (probably 'as-ianca-dji or 'as-xo- ca-tci: Swanton, 1909, pp. 86, 136, 137, asqlacS'tcl, anca'djt, asq!anca'dji).u The western water pipit, Anihus spinoletta pacificus, essentially a breeder on the Arctic tundras or the open mountain tops, is found commonly on Osier Island in Disenchantment Bay. It winters in Oregon and farther south. The rock ptarmigan, Lagopus mutus, lives high up on the sides of Russell Fiord and Disenchantment Bay. More common in this area, especially on Osier Island and on the northern shore, is Alexander's willow ptarmigan, Lagopus lagopus alexandrae. The (willow?) ptarmigan is felt by the Tlingit to be particularly a bird of the interior, from whom, in fact, the Atha- baskans learned how to make snowshoes (Swanton, 1909, p. 85). Ptarmigan are called xesAwa (Swanton, 14 Krause (1956, pp. 257, 259) gives this name (Sss-kantschad- schi) to the brown creeper (see p. 48), and calls the waxwing hunka, which is evidently the same name as 'moving on the north wind,' and which I tentatively suggest might be the name for thrush. Unfortunately, Naish and Story (1963, p. 23) apply the name usx'an shdch'ee ('Asxan catci) to an unidentified "green bird." 265-517?72?vol. VII, pt. 1 6 1909, p. 102, q!es!awa'; Naish and Story, 1963, p. 22, x'eis'oowah or ?esuwa, and x'eis'-uwah or ?es-'Awa). Ptarmigan were commonly snared at Dry Bay. The southeastern Alaskan Tlingit also distinguished between the dusky or blue grouse, that lives up high where it is windy (Swanton, 1909, p. 85, nukt; Krause, 1956, p. 257, Dendragapus obscurus sitkensis, nuk't; Naish and Story, 1963, p. 21, ndikt), and the Canada spruce grouse, Canachites canadensis, (Krause, 1956, p. 257, kachk', kak'; Naish and Story, 1963, p. 21, kax'). It is interesting that these two words are also used to distinguish between the male and the female grouse. While neither species seems to be found at Yakutat, the natives are familiar with the name for the second, or "female," kAX, since a famous site in Icy Strait is called Grouse Fort (de Laguna, 1960, pp. 142-143). The rusty blackbird, Euphagus carolinus, breeds farther north, migrating in spring by an interior route but returning in fall along the coast. It has been seen on the Ahrnklin River in mid-October. Krause (1956, p. 257) recorded a Chilkat expression for this bird meaning 'Athabaskans' raven.' I did not learn what the Yakutat people call it. Swallows come in summer to nest at Yakutat. The American barn swallow, Hirundo rustica erythrogaster, builds its mud nests around the cannery buildings. The tree swallow, Iridoprocne bicolor, is probably more com- mon, arriving, according to my notes, about May 9, and by early June nesting in boxes and bird houses which the Yakutat people put up for them. They are accompanied by the northern violet-green swallow, Tachycineta thalassina lepida, which will nest in boxes or in holes in trees. All swallows fly south in August to their winter homes. According to Krause (1956, p. 259), the Chilkat Tlingit call the swallow kischelatetl; Naish and Story (1963, p. 23) give the word seew kooshduneit (siw kucdAnet), suggesting that this is the bird that calls for rain (siu) in the summer (see below). Little birds, which would certainly include warblers, finches, linnets, sparrows, and probably many others which we have already mentioned, are known at Yakutat simply at tsitskw (Boas, 1917, p. 154, tsutsku'). Unfortunately I do not know which one calls for 'rain, rain,' (siu, siu) and so brings bad weather in summer, nor have I been able to identify the "wild canary," reported as a fine singer and said to be found in Tlingit country all year round, although it keeps away from people, and is the head of all the little birds (Swanton, 1909, 85, 124-125, 185, s'.asl; Naish and Story, 1963, p. 21, "goldfinch" or sas). Emmons (1903, p. 238) reports a "wild canary, Astragalinus tristis," called 'yellow' or "kut-thlark." He un- doubtedly refers to the goldfinch, Spinus tristis, but this is not an Alaskan bird and the Tlingit name is given, at Yakutat at any rate, to the yellow warbler. 50 SMITHSONIAN CONTRIBUTIONS TO ANTHROPOLOGY VOLUME 7 I do not know what is the very small bird of the interior called "old person" (Swanton, 1909, p. 212, LAg?- qa'k!u, or Laguqa'wu, i.e., tlagu qawu). Among the warblers that visit Yakutat in the summer are the lutescent oranged-crowned warbler, Vermivora celata luteseens, the black-capped or northern pileolated warbler, Wilsonia pusilla pileolata, and the Alaska yellow warbler, Dendroica petechia rubiginosa. The first was the bird I saw on May 24, and again on May 31. The yellow warbler appeared May 30, and was called simply 'yellow' (tl'atl'). The black-capped warbler was recognized by one informant who did not know the name. Doubtless others, such as the Alaska myrtle warbler or Townsend's warbler, Den- droica coronata hooveri and D. townsendi, for example, are seen at Yakutat, but of these we have no record. Possibly it is a warbler, not the Bohemian waxwing, that is the 'bird flying around the treetops,' or a warbler, not a kinglet, may be the tiny "respectable bird," whose voice is heard but who is seen only by those destined for luck. Of the sparrows, the most common at Yakutat in the summer are the Yakutat song sparrow, Melospiza melodia caurina, replaced in winter by the Kenai race, M. m. kenaiensis, the northwestern Lincoln's sparrow, M. lincolnii gracilis, the Yakutat fox sparrow, Passerella iliaca annectens, the Alaskan savannah sparrow, Passerculus sandwichensis or P. s. anthinus, and the beautiful golden-crowned sparrow, Zonotrichia atrica- pilla. The western tree sparrow, Spizella arborea ochracea, and Gambel's white-crowned sparrow, Zono- trichia leucophrys, presumably migrate through Yaku- tat. What I thought were fox sparrows, seen at Yakutat from late February until early April, may have been song sparrows. The Yakutat races of both species, as well as of the savannah sparrow, are very dark. The fox sparrow seems to be the 'dark bird' (tsitskw Uutc), or 'frog's spear' (xixt6 wusani), while a sparrow that is smaller and lighter on the belly and sides, but spotted like a frog (Lincoln's sparrow ?) is 'frog's desire' (xixt6 'usqax). The golden-crowned sparrow, called appropriately 'copper on top of the head' (cAkide tinna) sings in the woods around the village from early in May until almost the end of the month, when it apparently goes to nest in the willows of Disenchantment Bay and the Malaspina Glacier.16 These songsters are apparently very vocal while the people are at sealing camp in Disenchantment Bay 13 I was able to make recordings, May 23-27, 1954, of the varied thruah, song sparrow, yellow-crowned sparrow, yellow warbler, and robin, after they had been silent during a spell of rainy weather. The tape, 54 Reel 6, Side 1, is deposited in the Folklore Division of the Library of Congress, as well as in the American Philosophical Society Library. in June and are believed to imitate Th'ngit songs, especially the happy cries of children, and to tell when their fathers are coming home from hunting. The northern pine siskin, Spinus pinus pinus, a forest finch, apparently breeds near Yakutat and may winter in southeastern Alaska. The same is true of the pine grosbeak, Pinicola enudeator fiammvla. The Amer- ican white-winged crossbill, Lozia leucoptera leucoptera, is a sporadic but probably permanent resident. The common or mealy redpoll linnet, Acanihis ftammea flammea, lives primarily farther north but has been seen in late May and July among the willows of Osier Island and Eussell Fiord. Hepburn's gray-crowned rosy finch, Leucosticte tephrocotis littoralis, although essentially an Arctic bird, does breed above timberline and winter along the coast. The Alaska longspur, Calcarius lapponicus alascensis, while nesting in northern Alaska and the Aleutians, apparently visits southern Alaska as a migrant, chiefly in the fall, and should be seen at Yakutat. Yakutat Bay seems to be the dividing line for two species of junco. The northwestern Oregon junco, Junco oreganus oreganus, nests from Yakutat Bay south, and the northern slate-colored junco, J. hyemalis hyernalis, breeds in the forests to the north. Apparently neither winters in the area. However, the "snow bird" at Yakutat and in southeastern Alaska seems to be the snow bunting, Plectrophenax nivalis. which nests as far south as Glacier Bay. My informants described it as a small black and white bird, seen only in winter and called "bird on the snow' (tledkA tsitskw). One wonders whether this is the bird seen only when the north wind is going to blow (xunkA ha). On the whole, the birds of Yakutat form a conspic- uous and significant part of the world in which the native lives. Although far less important for food or manufactures than land and sea mammals, and cer- tainly less important than fish, birds seem to have as great a role in TJingit thought. Perhaps the very abundance and diversity of species has stimulated the imagination. Fish 16 Fish are the staff of life for the Tlingit, and of all kinds the salmon (xat; Boas 129, x&i) is what is meant when the Tlingit speaks of fish. The largest and earliest to spawn is the king, spring, or chinook salmon, Oncho- rhynchus tshawytscha, (t'a). Then come the red or sock- eye, 0. nerka, (gat); humpback or pink, 0. gorbuscha (t6as; Boas, 1917, p. 163, teas); coho or silver, 16 Material in this section is based upon Clemens and Wilby (1961), Rhode and Barker (1953), and Dufresne (1946). IN THREE PARTS LAND AND ITS PEOPLE 51 0. kisuich, (tl'uk; Boas 130, l'iiku'; Swanton, 1909, p. 247, Llu'k); and the chum or dog salmon, 0. Jceta (titl'; Boas 156, t'i-1'). The last is relatively unimportant to the Gulf Coast Indians, although the Tlingit of southeastern Alaska regard it as the best to smoke for the winter, and recognize the Dog Salmon as the crest of a Raven sib. I was told that there were few dog salmon in the Yakutat area, but that they could be caught east of Dry Bay, where the Dohn River or a tributary is called 'Dog Salmon Stream.' All of these salmon ascend the rivers during the summer to spawn and die; the young usually go down to salt water the following spring or a year later to spend their adult lives in the sea. Different races of the same species are apparently distinguished by the varying number of years they take to reach maturity, the oldest being the largest, and some varieties live always in fresh water. The males of most species undergo surprising trans- formations in color and shape when they become ready to spawn. King salmon average 15-23 pounds, although many reach 50 or 60 pounds, and a few giants of 100 pounds have been noted. They live from 3-9 years, depending on the race, although precocious males or "jacks" mature in 2 or 3 years. King salmon usually breed only in the larger rivers, such as the Alsek or Copper River, although they have been seen in the Ankau, Situk, Ahrnklin, Italio, and Ustay Rivers. Spawning runs begin about the last of April and may continue until the fall (when the king salmon are particularly fat), which was when the natives formerly caught them. While still in salt water the king salmon usually stays close to shore and may be taken by trolling, but this method was not employed until modern times. Some- times king salmon appear in Yakutat Bay as early as February, according to one informant. In 1954, the first was taken on March 27, and by March 30 all the men were out trolling. On April 16, the fish had retired to the bottom because of the bitter cold, and by May 22 Eleanor Cove was said to be so full of herring and smelt that trolling was unsuccessful. By that time, however, the commercial fishing season was beginning in Dry Bay. The sockeye averages about 6 pounds but may range up to 15. It spawns only in lakes or in streams flowing from or into lakes, and the young fish may spend from 1-3 years in fresh water. Some may remain all their lives, 2-5 years, in the lake and are known as "residuals" to the Whites, or as "old salmon" to the natives (?akw; Swanton, 1908, p. 401, q!ak!u). Sockeye that breed in a lake from which there is no escape become dwarfed and are known as "Kennedy's salmon," "dwarf redfish," or "silver trout." Aside from preco- cious 3-year-old "jacks," the salmon ascending the rivers to spawn in May to August, and especially in late June and July, are usually 4 or 5 years old, rarely 6 or 7. Almost all of the streams southeast of Yakutat have sockeyes, from the Ankau-Lost River system to the Alsek, except for Dangerous River (Moser, 1901, pp. 383-388). However, one of my informants who had lived all his youth in the Situk area reported that sockeye first appeared on Lost, Italio, and Akwe Rivers, only after the Government fish weir was put across the Situk and so drove away some of the fish. Yet this weir as a counting station was not established until many years after Moser's survey. The humpback salmon, so called because of the hump developed by breeding males, invariably matures in 2 years, and most streams have two dis- tinct populations, so that the run one year may be heavy and the next light, or there may be a run only every other year, as in the streams entering Russell Fiord. The mature fish average 3-5 pounds, with a few up to 10. Spawning runs last from late June to September, with the most in July and early August. Of all the streams in the Yakutat area, Humpback Creek (kwack hini) is the most important for this fish, and also for the Raven sib that owns this stream and claims the Humpback Salmon as a crest. This fish is known at Yakutat by its Eyak name (kwac!) as much as by the Tlingit word (tfcas). The coho is the favorite salmon for drying at Yakutat, and is also the name crest of another Raven sib. The runs come late in the year, from July or August through October, and the natives prefer to cure the fish in the cool fall weather. Most young fish remain in fresh water for a year before going out to sea, and return at the end of their third summer, although there are also 2-year-old "jacks" that look like spotted trout, and a few 4-year-old fish. Practically all the streams in the Yakutat area have cohos, although the Situk is espe- cially rich (Rich and Bell, 1935, p. 441). Coho may weigh from 6-12 pounds, and occasionally up to 30. Swanton (1908, p. 406) gives the name, cadasf'ktc, for the landlocked "king salmon," but I believe he refers to a coho, or possibly to a sockeye. Related to the Pacific salmon are several varieties of salmon trout and char, also found in Yakutat waters, although they are of much less value to the natives. These are like the Atlantic salmon in that they do not die when they spawn, but may return to salt water and again ascend the streams to spawn. One of these is the steelhead trout, Salrno gairdnerii, which usually remains 1 or 2 years in fresh water, and returns in the third to fifth year for the first spawning. It has no regular season for running. Small individuals that remain all their lives hi fresh water are known as "rainbow trout." Full-sized fish average 8-10 pounds, with records of over 30. The coastal cutthroat trout, Salmo clarkii 52 SMITHSONIAN CONTRIBUTIONS TO ANTHROPOLOGY VOLUME 7 clarkii, spawns early in the spring, February to May, or even in mid-winter. Most individuals go to sea in the spring of their second or third year, and ascend the rivers in the autumn, when they are most easily taken. They may weigh up to 17 pounds. These fish prefer warmer waters, so are not as numerous along the Gulf of Alaska as farther south. In contrast, the Dolly Varden, Salvelinus malma, a char, is more common in colder waters, spawning in autumn, although, like the cutthroat, it frequents the mouths of streams. Some may weigh up to 30 pounds. The Yakutat Tlingit not only distinguish between all five species of Pacific salmon, clearly recognizing the dwarfed landlocked sockeye as a salmon, although they call them 'baby cohoes' (tl'uk yAtxi), but they have a separate name for the steelhead ('acAt), and for other trout (xoti, xut!, Dolly Varden ?). They are well aware that the steelheads are anadromous, saying that the old ones go to the ocean, become rejuvenated, and return as young again to the stream. They are caught ascending the Situk or Humpback Creek in May. But no one now living at Yakutat will ever have any conception of the multitudes of salmon that crowded the streams and lakes before the White man came to destroy the "inexhaustible supply" (Grinnell, 1902; Rich and Bell, 1935, pp. 440-449). According to the natives, there are three or four small fish that spawn in Yakutat salt or fresh waters. One of these is the eulachon, Thaleichthys pacificus, (sak) from 8-12 inches long and famous for its rich oil. These were running in the Situk early in March, 1954, and were said to run at Dry Bay in February. Two runs were reported there, "in the spring and in the winter time." While the name "candlefish" is usually a synonym for eulachon, my informants distinguished between these two fish, specifying that the "candlefish" (cat6) were smaller and came later. Possibly this was the capelin, Mallotus villosus, which spawns on the beaches in September or October. The surf smelt or silver smelt, Hypomesus pretiosus, spawns on the beaches from June to September and is probably the "smelt" (t6Akwl) of my informants, although the surf smelt is not believed to occur hi the Gulf of Alaska. The Pacific herring, Clupea pallasii, (yaw, yaw; Boas 1917, p. 159, yaw) was once much more common than it is at present, although it was spawning in Yakutat Bay in May, 1954. Suria (Wagner, 1936, p. 257) noted "smelt" being eaten in late June and early July. Herring eggs are, of course, a delicacy sought by the Yakutat people. In mid-February, 1954, many small fish, like smelt but smaller, were being caught with unbaited hooks off the end of the cannery dock. I was told that they had first appeared 2 years before and that no one knew their correct name. It was surmised that they came from California; "got lost from the California current." There had been some at Hoonah, but when the cold weather came they all died. These may have been the young of some fish such as the pilchard, Sardinops sagax. Conceivably it was the Pacific saury or "skip- per," Cololabis saira, a slender, small leaping fish that is common in schools from southern California to the Gulf of Alaska. They belong in the open sea but may possibly come closer to shore. A fish that looks like a sardine or herring, with spots on its back, is supposed to lay large eggs on or under the rocks along the shore near Knight Island. This is called the 'Thunderbird's fish' (xett yadi). Possibly this is the capelin (see above), although the latter has many black dots on the opercles, not on the back. It may even be a sculpin (see below). The shad, Alosa sapidissima, was introduced from the Atlantic to the Columbia and Sacramento Rivers in 1871, and by 1896 had reached southeastern Alaska, and is now found as far north as Cook Inlet. Although it spawns in fresh water, it has pronounced black spots on the sides. The pilchard (see above) is similarly marked, but lays its eggs in the ocean. Other anadromous fish, also with fresh water forms, are the white and green sturgeon, Acipenser trans- montanus and A. medirostris. The ranges of both in- clude the Gulf of Alaska, and since they are enormous, attaining lengths of 20 and 7 feet respectively, they would surely have been noted and mentioned, if common in the Yakutat area. At Yakutat, Suria (Wagner, 1936, p. 257) saw a fish like a "conger eel." This may have been the Pacific lamprey, Entosphenus tridentatus, which is related to the delicious European lamprey and is abundant from California to the Gulf of Alaska. It spawns in fresh water, and in adult form preys especially upon salmon and steelhead trout in the sea, marking their silver sides. The Tlingit interpret these wounds as the result of being cut by the gates at the horizon's edge, through which the fish pass. Possibly this is the "eel" (lu?) of the Tlingit, not the blenny (see below). Of flatfishes, the Pacific halibut, Hippoglossus steno- lepis, ranks first. It is caught in the winter, spring, and early summer with ingeniously devised hooks and long lines. Halibut range in size from "chicken halibut," about 4 feet long (tcatl, teal) to a giant 9 feet long (nalx, 'riches'). Commercial fishermen seek them at depths of 10-150 fathoms. Males mature earlier than females, may weigh up to 40 pounds, and live 25 years. Females ma- ture at 12 years, may live for 35, and have been known to weigh 470 pounds. Flounders (tsAnti; Boas, 1917, p. 126, tsAnt6) are also caught at Yakutat. These probably include such species as the arrowtooth flounder or turbot (Ather- esthes stomias), starry flounder {Platichihys stellatus), IN THREE PARTS LAND AND ITS PEOPLE 53 brill (Eopsetta jordani), and sand sole (Psettichthys melanostictus), all 2-3 feet long; and the smaller lemon sole (Parophrys vetulus), rock sole (Lepidopsetta bilineata), and yellowfm or northern sole (Limanda aspera), reaching lengths from 15-22 inches. I do not know whether the natives consider the flathead sole, Hip- poglossus elassodon, a halibut or a flounder. It is not over 18 inches long. The slimy dover sole, Microstomus pacificus, through a little over 2 feet long, lives below 30 fathoms, so is probably seldom caught. Still smaller is the mottled or Pacific sanddab, Githarichthys sordidus, which rarely exceeds 12 inches, found from Bering Sea to California, and the speckled sanddab, C. stigmaeus, not over 6 inches long, found north of southeastern Alaska. Possibly one of the small flatfish is known as the "child of the wind" (MltcayAdi), described as like a flounder the size of one's hand, which is sometimes washed ashore in storms. It is taboo to handle them. True cods include the Pacific or gray cod, Gadus macrocephalus, which annually migrates into shallow water in spring after its winter spawning in the ocean. These fish may attain lengths of 3 feet. There is also the whiting, known as the Alaska or walleyed pollack, Theragra chakogrammus, found at moderate depths along the coast. The smaller tomcod, Microgadus prozimus, lives in deeper waters. Closely related to the true cods, and very similar in appearance, are the hakes. The Pacific hake, Merluccius productus, common along the whole coast from southern California to the Gulf of Alaska, may have been known at Yakut at. I am not sure whether any of the above are what the Yakutat people call "cod," for the same native name (sa&) given for "cod," was also used for the "lingcod" which is really a variety of greenling. The lingcod, Ophiodon elongates, is found on the bottom from shallow water to depths of over 60 fathoms. It is a very fat fish and may grow to lengths of 5 feet and the female may weigh 80-100 pounds. Eggs in large masses are laid in late winter to early spring just below low tide line, where they are guarded by the male until they hatch. The range is from southern California to the Bering Sea. Also found in the Yakutat area are the smaller but related rock greenling, Hexagrammos superciliosus, up to 2 feet long, and the white-spotted greenling, H. stelleri, not over 16 inches long. The last is also known as "tommy cod" or "rock trout." "Rock cod" or rockfish, of which there are many species, some living along the rocky shores, others at depths from tide water to over 800 fathoms, is a vivip- arous fish that is not a cod at all. The black rockfish, "Black Bass" or "Sea Bass," Sebastodes melanops, is probably what the Tlingit call htistuk" ("black sea bass/' htisdu'k, Swanton, 1908, pi. LV, a). Identification is uncertain, however, because the same name was given to a swordfish pin that I wore, and because on another occasion the fish of this name was described as having a prominent fin on the back and greenish hard meat. The dorsal fin of the rockfish is conspicuous, but the meat is described as "firm white flesh which is very palatable and of excellent food value" (Clemens and Wilby, 1961, p. 251). The black rockfish is common in shallow waters and is often confused with the blue rockfish, S. mystinus. Both reach lengths of about 20 inches and are found in the Gulf of Alaska, as is the related red snapper or "red cod," S. ruberrimus, al- though the latter lives at depths of over 30 fathoms and may be 3 feet long. The last, according to Swanton (1909, p. 297, le'q!), is called 'red,' i.e., lexw. The so-called "black cod" or sablefish, Anoploma jimbria, ('icqin) was caught at Yakutat. It grows up to 3 feet in length and is very oily. Swanton's informants (1909, p. 45, icqe'n) identified the fish of this name as a valuable deep water fish that lives in nests (suggesting the lingcod), or (p. 84) as a kind of salmon caught with a hook. My informant also believed that the "black cod" was caught on a halibut hook. The sablefish spawns in the open sea. The Angoon Tlingit regarded the "black cod" as the best kind of "cod" (de Laguna, 1960, p. 92). Swanton's Wrangell informant (1909, p. 136) gave the name, tuq, to a small bright fish found in sand along the shore. Possibly this is one of the sandfish, Trichodon sp. or Arctoscopus sp. Skates (t6itqa; Boas, 1917, p. 126, t6itgi.) were taken at Yakutat and the "fins" eaten. These were probably the big skate, Raja binoculata, which is abundant on the muddy bottoms of cool waters and may grow to a length of 8 feet. Its "wings" are marketed commercially father south. Also present are the smaller species, seldom exceeding 2-2 K feet: the black skate, R. kincaidii, and starry skate R. stellulata, although the last is found only in very deep water. The skate is the canoe of the dreaded Land Otter Men, and in one story is the slave of the wealth-bringing water monster (Swanton, 1909, p. 51). I was given three names for sharks and dogfish. The most common word is tus, applied to "sharks" and sometimes particularly to "mud sharks." The "mud shark" was also called 'porpoise children' (tcitc yAtxi), while the dogfish, appropriately enough, was known as 'shark's children' (tus yAtxi). These three words were given on the same occasion by the same informants, so presumably apply to three separate species, although it is impossible to identify them accurately. The Shark as a crest (Swanton, 1908, p. 416, fig. 103, tus!) is represented with prominent dorsal and pectoral fins and a wide heterocercal caudal fin. This suggests either the salmon shark, Lamna ditropis, or, more 54 SMITHSONIAN CONTRIBUTIONS TO ANTHROPOLOGY VOLUME 7 likely, the basking shark, Oetorhinus maximus. Both are pelagic but often come close to shore. The former, up to 10 feet long, may be taken on light tackle; the latter, up to 45 feet in length, is sluggish, frequently resting with its large dorsal fin above water, is often gregarious, and eats small Crustacea or other organisms, straining them with its gill rakes. Its five gill slits are very long and conspicuous, a feature emphasized in native repre- sentations of the shark. It is a crest of a Yakutat sib. Basking sharks often become entangled in salmon nets, and in former days the Haida sometimes killed them (Clemens and Wilby, 1961, pp. 75-77). What is evi- dently a large shark of a different species is known to the southern Tlingit, where a Wolf sib at Wrangell has both a Shark House and a Shark's Intestines House (qAtgu or ?Atgu; Swanton, 1908, p. 402, qLv'tgu hit and qk'tgu na'sl hit). There are also two other sharks with small dorsal fins which may have been known to the Yakutat Tlingit. These are the active, fish-eating, pelagic blue shark, Prionace glauca, and the sluggish, bottom- dwelling Pacific sleeper shark, Somniosus pacificus. Both may attain lengths up to 25 feet. The sixgill shark, Hexanchus corinum, often called "mud shark" by White fishermen, is about the same length as the last. It has been commercially used for 011 and fertilizer, and is caught by Whites with nets, traps, and hooks. It is distinguished by a very slender, high, asymmetric caudal fin. Although ranging as far north as the Gulf of Alaska, it belongs to tbe family of cow sharks, most of which live in warmer seas. There are many fossil representatives in British Columbia, which perhaps furnish the fossil teeth prized by the Tlingit as ornaments (cAxdXq 'uxu). Emmons (1903, p. 265, "shuh-tuck ou-hu'") also speaks of the "tooth of the large tropical shark," found in the warmer waters south of Alaska, the large teeth of which were traded to the Tlingit for earrings. The name of this shark figures in one Raven story as a tongue twister (Swanton, 1909, Tale 1, p. 20; cf. Swanton, 1908, pi. LV, j , for the earrings). The Pacific dogfish, Squalus suckleyi, attains lengths of about 5 feet, and produces a good deal of oil. It is identified as a crest in southeastern Alaska by Garfield and Forrest (1948, figs. 22, 23). Pelagic fish which sometimes come close to shore and may have been known to the Yakutat include the pomphret or bream, Brarna rail, and bluefin tuna, Thunnus saliens. There are numerous deep sea fish with rows of glowing photophores along their sides: anglemouths, dragon- fish, lanternfish, and others; but these would hardly be known to the natives unless washed ashore. Perhaps the Yakutat people were interested in the lumpsuckers, Cyclopteridae, with short squat bodies covered with spines. They are slow moving, attaching themselves to rocks where their eggs are deposited in masses and guarded by the male until hatched. Though numerous, these fish are too small to be of economic importance. There are also many genera of snailfish, Liparidae, with tbin loose skin but no scales. Those that live along the shore are small, for only the larger ones inhabit deep water. The blenny or prickleback is a long, slender, eel- shaped fish, related to the kelpfish and eelpout, all Blennioidea. They live on the bottom from tidewater to oceanic depths, and are identified by Boas (1917, p. 129) as "eels" (KM). The stickleback, Gasterosteus aculeatus, is a small fish covered with bright greenish to blue-black boney plates, and protected by prominent dorsal spines. It lives in eelgrass, and around wharves, as well as in deeper water. The male makes the nest in which several females may deposit their eggs, which he then guards. Evidently this little fish, never over 4 inches long, has been of sufficient interest to the natives that a slough near Dry Bay is named 'Stickleback Creek' (kagin hini). Another relatively small fish, which is apparently not eaten but which has attracted the attention of the Tlingit, is the sculpin, Oottidae, represented by many species, some of which live in tidal pools, others in shallow or deep waters. One cannot help recording the Tlingit name (we?; Boas, 1891, wek-, i.e., weq; Swan- ton, 1909, pp. 18, 107, weq!). The freshwater species are called "bullheads," as is the red Irish lord, Hemi- lepidotus hemilepidotus, a salt water sculpin. The latter grows up to 20 inches in length, and is found from northern California to Bering Sea. I am not sure which of these brightly colored, spiny fish were called we? by the Tlingit, nor whether they used the same name for all of the group. These fish were sometimes caught by children, but it was taboo to kill them with a club. Clemens and Wilby (1961, p. 309) report that the buffalo sculpin, Enophrys bison, with a range which includes the Gulf of Alaska is "very common along the whole coast . . . will take a bait readily and provides sport for the young, who frequently suffer hand wounds from the jagged spines." A Raven sib among the southernmost Tlingit had a Sculpin House; this fish appears in mythology as Raven's younger brother or father's brother's son; and tbe Pleiades are supposed to be a sculpin which Raven put in tbe sky (Swanton, 1908, p. 400; 1909, pp. 18, 107), all of which indicates how prominent in native thought such an economically unimportant fish can become. Possibly the red Irish lord, with its brightly colored, black-spotted back and its habit of spawning in March when it deposits large masses of tough pink eggs in very shallow water, sometimes even above high tide IN THREE PARTS LAND AND ITS PEOPLE 55 level, is the Thunderbird's fish,' mentioned by a Yakutat informant. The fish, supposedly shaped like a halibut but with many "legs" quick and large, with sharp sides that can cut killerwhales in two, and a friend of the sculpin, is probably a mythological giant representative of the family. It (hln-tayl'ci) appears in two Tlingit myths recorded by Swanton (1909, Tales 60 and 91). I have been unable to identify the "fish that looks like a swan" ('adA goqtli or adA guqli, i.e., 'spear-swan'). Marine Invertebrates and Seaweed17 The waters of the Gulf of Alaska are so rich in marine invertebrates that to attempt to list them in any comprehensive way is quite beyond the scope of this study. The same is true of the thousands of insects and other noninvertebrates of the land and air. We need only mention, therefore, those that have come to the particular attention of the natives. The most important shellfish are those which are eaten. These include the basket cockle, Clinocardium nuttalli, which is called by its old Eyak name, 'squirts' (caxw or caxw, not yAlulet' as in Boas, 1917, p. 155). In addition Boas (1891, p. 175, g-'atlka'sk, i.e., gatl' kXtslux) recorded the name 'little clam' for this cockle. There is also the common smooth Washington or butter clam, Saxidomus giganteus, (tsixw), the large Pacific gaper or horse clam, Schizothaerus nuttalli, (gatl' or gal; Boas, 1917, p. 155, gal', gai,'), and the Pacific little-neck clam or "rock cockle," Protothaca staminea. All of these the people now gather, and they were also well represented in the midden on Knight Island. The "giant clam" that killed a woman (xit, Swanton, 1909, Tale 21, p. 41; Garfield and Forrest, 1948, figs. 46, 47) may be a rock oyster, possibly Pododesmus (Monia) macroschisma, since my informants called the rock oyster xet. A similar story is told about a giant "rock oyster" or "rock scallop," perhaps Hinnites giganteus (Garfield and Forrest, 1948, p. 41). A large scallop, Pecten cawinus (xweyna), is occasionally caught on halibut hooks, but those that I saw at Yakutat had simply been brought home as curiosities. The Yakutat also eat the common blue mussel, Mytilus edulis, (yak, yak; Boas, 1917, p. 101, yak), 17 Scientific information is based upon identifications in Johnson and Snook, 1927; upon identifications of shells at Knight Island (Laguna et al, 1964); and upon Rhode and Barker, 1953. The seaweeds marked with an asterisk (*) were collected by Catharine McClellan. and the sea urchin, Strongylocentrotus purpuratus, (nfs; Swanton, 1909, p. 9, nls!). Again, both were found in the Knight Island middens. The site also contained such whelks as the large Oregon triton, Argobuccium oregonense, (Boas, 1891, p. 175, tl'itlk', i.e., tl'itlkw), the small dogwinkle, Nucella (or Thais) sp., and the little puppet rnargarite, Margarites pupillus, as well as a few shield limpets, Acmaea pelta, but I do not know whether any of these were eaten. A "snail," defined for me as the "worm" removed from its shell, is called ta? (Boas, 1891, p. 181, tak', i.e., taq), a word which I believe refers to the encircling spiral shape. I do not know, however, whether this term is applied to small sea snails. The Yakutat also eat the common chiton or "gum- boot," Katharina tunicata, (caw; Boas, 1917, p. 155, caw) which was represented in the Knight Island site, and sometimes eat the large crypto-chiton, Oryptochiton stelleri, (ku, kuw; Boas, 1917, p. 155, thw). The latter was evidently something of a novelty because the tides are seldom low enough to expose them. Although my informants denied that shellfish in Yakutat Bay became poisonous in summer, it would appear that the large California mussel, Mytilus cali- forniensis, (yis, yis; Boas 124, yis), which is especially likely to harbor the deadly dynoflagellate, was not eaten, but was sought for its hard sharp shell, used as a knife or scraper. Dungeness crabs, Cancer magisterij), (tsaw, saw) were eaten, as were "spider" or "king crabs," possibly one or more of the Majidae and Lithodidae. The last were sometimes caught on halibut hooks and so were called 'crab of the [halibut] deep' ('itkA tsawu). The largest "king crabs" or "spider crabs" were called by a special name, xix or x6x. According to Swanton's in- formants (1909, pp. 142, 412) "spider crabs" are used by land otters for poisonous arrowheads with which they shoot people, making boils all over then- bodies or even causing death. These arrows may cause people to fall down suddenly, or to be crushed under falling tree limbs. The drum of the land otter is a "lobster shell" (qlexetAnu'qhi, i.e., xexetA-nuxu). I suspect that this animal is a "spider crab" or "king crab." There are many varieties of starfish, Asteroidea, (tsAx) but none is eaten. It is used as a crest by the DAqdentan sib (Swanton, 1908, p. 400). Squid or "devilfish," Loligo opalescens or Rossia pacifica(l) (naqw) are sought for halibut bait; and indeed their name means 'bait.' There are stories of monster devilfish (Swanton, 1909, Tale 31, p. 132, dAgasa/)- This may be Octopus apollyon, up to 28 feet in spread. The Yakutat people recognke barnacles, Balanus sp., (tsuk), and the goose barnacle, perhaps Lepas anatifera, (tsACsn), neither of which was eaten. 56 SMITHSONIAN CONTRIBUTIONS TO ANTHROPOLOGY VOLUME 7 There are also many varieties of shrimp, Pandalus sp., but I learned nothing about them, probably be- cause I neglected to ask. Shrimps were, however, mentioned by the natives as causing phosphorescence, as were small jellyfish, although my informants seemed very uncertain about the cause of this phenomenon and contradicted each other. By trade from the south comes abalone shell, Haliotis sp. (gunxa; Boas 153, gunxa), dentalia, Dentalium pretiosum or D. californicus (tXxxei), and "pearls" or opercula, 'dentalium-among (?) stones' (tlxxe-xu-teyi). These precious shells were valued for ornaments. "Sea jelly," possibly a kind of jellyfish, is called 'ancient tree'(?), (takwan-'Asi) and is taboo to touch. Spawn left by invertebrates, not by fish, is iix. Swanton (1909, pp. 402,) records the spotted sea cucumber, yen, which my informant translated as "slug." It is probably a species of Cucumaria. Lisiansky (1814, pp. 166-167) when at Sitka reported a taboo against eating this. Swanton (1908, p. 456, CAku) also mentions some bad-smelling things on the beaches which are eaten by Land Otter Men, but we do not know what these are. There are many varieties of seaweed. Both dark and light ribbon seaweed, Iridea larninoides* (xatc or qatc; Harrington, k'aati), and black seaweed, Porphyra laciniata,* (leikAsk.; Harrington, laak'ask; Boas, 1917, p. 128, laklsk'), were gathered, dried, and eaten. Boas (1891, p. 177, tare'de, i.e., tay6de) records a word for Fucus visiculosus, but I do not think that this was used for any purpose. Kelp, Macrocystis pyrifera, (gic) fur- nished material for fishing lines (tl'eyani). Insects Of the rich insect life we need mention only the tormenting mosquitoes (taia; Boas, 1917, p. 175, t'axax plural; Swanton, 1909, p. 278, ta'qla), the small biting gnats or 'baby mosquitoes' (taxax yAtxi), and the still smaller but no less voracious "No-see-ums," called 'with his mouth-nose he bites' (xA-hm-daguq). There are also spiders, 'it makes a web' (tsaqadi; Boas 138, qasisf!an), small flies (houseflies ?) (Boas, 158, xln), and blowflies that lay eggs in salmon hung up to dry. These larvae are called natsilAne", according to Swanton (1909, p. 230), although maggots in caribou meat are called wun (Swanton, 1909, p. 24). I recorded the term, tl'uq, for "worm," which may also be a blowfly larva, or possibly the woodworm, which I heard as 1'Ak, when rendered by the same informant. The Woodworm was the crest of an important Raven sib at Chilkat (Swanton, 1908, p. 404, L!uk!xa' hit, 'woodworm house,' i.e., tl'u&; 1909, 151, L!uq!u'x). The red-vested bumblebees that Burroughs (Burroughs and Grinnell, 1901, p. 61) saw buzzing about the lupins may be what Boas (1891, p. 174) recorded as gandasa'dji. Emmons (1903, p. 264, tla-thlu; cf. Boas 1891, p. 175, tie tlu') believes that the butterfly as a basketry pattern originated at Yakutat. The dragonfly, according to a Yakutat informant, had a name that means 'it steals hair' (qacicxaw); Boas (1917, p. 156, Iq'acicxaw) translates this as 'no body hair,' which is undoubtedly correct. Head lice, of course, were not unknown, especially on slaves (note the word for 'burr,' p. 34). The louse is was (Swanton, 1908, p. 411, was!). Small "bugs" seen on ponds under the ice were called da by one of our informants. Swanton (1908, 459, ts'.f'nqle') reports that theTlingit treated the water beetle with considerable respect, as a dangerous being whom one should be careful not to offend, and also as a power that might be utilized by the shaman for curing. (For additional vocabulary, see Naish and Story, 1963, pp. 27-29.) The Homeland of the Yakutat Tlingit 58 SMITHSONIAN CONTRIBUTIONS TO ANTHROPOLOGY VOLUME 7 For the Tlingit, the world, their world, Imgit-'ani, is the 'land of human beings.' The word, 'an, makes no distinction between territory and village, rather it denotes the home where people live. This homeland always belongs to some sib; the actual settlements within it are shared by the owners, their spouses and affinal kin, and any others who may choose to live or visit there. The ties between the people and the land are close, and no mere geographical description is adequate unless it attempts also to display the associa- tions which make the lingit-'ani a Lebensraum. These associations are in part conveyed by the names given to places, sometimes descriptive of the locality, some- times referring to historical or legendary events which have occurred here. Even when the names are in a foreign tongue they serve as a reminder of those who once occupied the land and are now gone, although the Tlingit attempt, probably unconsciously, to adapt the strange sounds to words which have a meaning in Tlingit. The human meanings of the landscape are more than the mythological dimension recognized by Malinowski (1922, ch. 12). They involve not simply places visited and transformed by Raven in the mythical past, but places hallowed by human ancestors. For individuals, of course, the world has special personal meanings, for there are places about which their grandparents and parents have told them, spots they have visited in their own youth, or where they still go. None of these personal associations are completely private; all are intermeshed through anecdote or shared experiences. Not only is the world the scene of happenings of long ago, yesterday, and tomorrow, but it has human significance for what it offers in food resources, scenery, easy routes for travel, or places of danger. The Tlingit have never been alone in their world. Always there have been other tribes for them to visit or to visit them, and ever since the latter part of the 18th century they have shared it more and more with the White man. To the explorers, traders, missionaries, surveyors, even to myself and my companions, it has been a Lehensraum, and the experiences and meanings for the White man have merged with those of the Indian, and help to illuminate the latter. For these reasons, the lands about the Gulf Coast of Alaska, the particular homeland of the Yakutat people, must be sketched, not simply as geography, but with some hint of all these rich associations, if we are to understand the Yakutat people themselves. In the following sections of this chapter we will begin with Yakutat Bay itself, then turn southeastward, exploring as far as Lituya Bay, with an excursion up the Alsek River. Finally we will return to Yakutat to survey the lands to the west as far as the home of the Eyak at the mouth of the Copper River. The Yakutat Bay country has already been described in some detail, but in dealing with the terrain to the southeast and to the northwest it will be necessary to introduce some brief descriptions of the country. A great deal of the information about Yakutat Bay was gathered on excursions to Disenchantment Bay and to the head of Russell Fiord in 1952, and in discussing the photo- graphs taken then. Similar excursions with native friends were made to parts of the Ankau lagoon system, to Lost River and Situk River southeast of Yakutat, and to Khantaak Island. For other areas I had to rely upon maps and charts for identification of the places mentioned. YAKUTAT BAY In entering Yakutat Bay we come to Tlaxata or Laxata, a name which is applied more specifically to an old sealing camp south of Point Latouche (see p. 67). 'Inside Yakutat Bay' is Tlaxayik, which Swanton (1908, p. 397) renders as Laxayt'k, "inside ia'xa (an island)." Actually the name is Eyak, accord- ing to a speaker of that language; the name Tla'xa't is supposed to mean 'glacier-inside place.' The Tlingit could not pronounce it properly, one of them admitted, and "it sounds funny to him [the Eyak man] when we add -ta to that." The inhabitants, 'those who live inside Yakutat Bay,' are the Tlaxayik-qwan, (or taxayik-qwan) although some informants felt that this expression belongs properly to the Raven sib, Kwackqwan, because they own all the shores of the bay. The name tla' or la,' with its various endings, is said to refer to the glacier which formerly extended way down the bay. According to Dr. Michael E. Krauss: tla'xa'lah is Eyak for 'Tlingit habitation,' obviously referring to the Tlingit of Yakutat. 'Glacier' in Eyak is la' not tla', but the alternation 1-tl does occur elsewhere in Eyak. [My own transcription may be at fault.] However, glacier (la1) is a "d-class noun," so that 'by (the) glacier(s)' in Eyak should properly be: la'dAxa' (letter of December 20, 1966). The word Yakutat, first adopted by the Russians in 1823 (Dall and Baker, 1883, p. 207 n.), or Yakwdat, is applied to the mouth of Ankau Creek in Monti Bay. Swanton (1909, Tale 105, p. 351) renders this as OldTi ELEAN&R^C Humpback Salmon Si Krutoi ?A,J? P+. Carrew Ankau Lagoon Ocean Co W0M ^Ywm ^^*?&Al\&/~^-''" "'\0. yOld Canoe Traif^^^^^t ^ Ruins vJ??|Sp?^f 0 J Qp f ^ "^ fj^ MAP 6.?Yakutat Bay [to Dry Bay], IN THREE PARTS HOMELAND OF THE YAKUTAT TLINGIT 59 Ya'kMat. By some of my oldest informants the word is said to be Eyak, meaning "salt water pond," or "a lagoon is forming," referring to the open water which appeared as the Yakutat Bay Glacier melted back. One specified that it meant "mouth of a salt water bay," like the Tlingit expression, 'el'wAt, and referred simply to the mouth of the Ankau. Other informants, who knew no Eyak, thought that the name was derived from yakwtadE, 'to the ship,' since Russian ships used to anchor at the mouth of the Ankau, or even that yakwdat referred to a "canoe bouncing up and down in the tidal currents." Harrington recorded Yaakwtaat-yfk for all of the Ankau lagoon area, as well as the stream. Peter Law- rence told him that it meant "canoe (yaakw) jump (taat) inside (yik)" because a canoe will bob up and down in the waves at the mouth of the Ankau River.18 All of Yakutat Bay and the adjacent lands are claimed by the Kwackqwan, who trace their origin to the Copper River. The west side of the bay, and indeed all of the shores as far west as to include Icy Bay (see pp. 95-98), was theirs apparently by right of settle- ment. The eastern shores were purchased from the original owners. However, the Kwackqwan Ravens were accompanied to Yakutat by the Wolf Galyix- Kagwantan, with whom they had intermarried at Icy Bay. These latter (or a closely related Yakutat branch of the same sib) were known as the Tiaxayik-Teqwedi (perhaps after they had settled on Yakutat Bay). While some settlements seem to have belonged pre- dominently to the last sib, or at least to have had a man of that sib as their most distinguished house chief, control of Yakutat Bay for hunting, fishing, and gather- ing was in the hands of the leading Kwacljqwan chief. According to reports about this sib chief during Russian days, his domination extended up into Disenchantment Bay, at least as far as Haenke Island. The West Side of Yakutat Bay There were no settlements on the exposed west shore of Yakutat Bay. Its most prominent feature is the enormous Malaspina Glacier, known to the natives simply as the 'Big Glacier' (sit tlen). Point Manby was Yatiak ('place behind'?). Manby Stream just inside the point was called Kik. (Note that Kwik Stream of the maps and charts is much farther up the bay, just below Blizhni Point.) At Point Manby there was once a great hollow tree, inside which one could hear the noise of an approaching storm. The Galyix-Kagwantan youth who married a ship- wrecked Russian woman (see pp. 233, 256) used to go inside the tree and, if he heard no storm warning, would run across Yakutat Bay on the ice, which at that time stretched from Point Manby to Eleanor Cove. All along the shores of the lagoons between Point Manby and Kame Stream ("Grand Wash"), there are many bears. They dig holes to sleep in, about 6 feet in diameter and 3 feet deep, so that just the tips of their ears show. "It looks as if an army had been digging foxholes." The grass is breast high, so that one may come upon the bears unexpectedly. Despite this danger, and that of landing through the surf, and also despite the Tlingit horror of frogs which are said to be very numerous here, this region is one of the best in which to gather strawberries, and large parties often go across from Yakutat to pick them. The members of the various expeditions who passed here on their way toward Mount Saint Elias were much impressed with the luxuriance of the vegetation, so close to the edge of the Malaspina Glacier, and commented on the abundance of strawberries and berry bushes, on the multitudes of waterfowl, and on the many tracks of enormous bears?the Alaska brown bear and the still larger Saint Elias silver grizzly (Filippi, 1900, pp. 72-74). "Between Point Manby and Esker Creek is good for silver salmon and hunting seals. . . . We do not stay there but go for the day. This used to be good trapping grounds [for marten, mink, fox and land otter], but whites have used poison and killed off all the animals." [Jack Ellis in Goldschmidt and Haas, 1946, p. 75.] I did not learn the names for the numerous streams along this shore, except that Esker Creek was called Yafa-se'a or Yata-sl'a'.19 Near here, at the base of Amphitheatre Knob, coal was found by Jack Dalton, a White man who prospected this area before he estab- lished the famous Dalton Trail and Dalton Post of Gold Rush days. The general area was called ia-yeyl, 'Below the Point,' referring to Bancas Point, and the site of the coal was called 'Jack's Town,' Jack-'ani or TcEk-'ani, because Jack Dalton had a cabin nearby (see Russell, 1891 b, p. 169; Tarr and Butler, 1909, p. 168). Dalton's cabin was at the foot of Galiano Glacier, according to Russell (1891 b, p. 98). The latter, in 1890, named Turner Glacier after "Jack Dalton, a miner and frontiersman now living at Yaku- tat, who is justly considered the pioneer explorer of the region." He had apparently come to Yakutat as a cook on Schwatka/s expedition of 1886 to climb Mount " Dr. Michael B. Krauss suggests that Yakutat may be an Eyak word [di-]ya'-guda'd, 'salt-water mouth-of,' if one allows for the queer dropping of the di.- (letter of December 20, 1966). " This may be the Eyak 'it extends across (something)' ya-ta-s'i-'ah (Michael Krauss, letter of December 20, 1966). 60 SMITHSONIAN CONTRIBUTIONS TO ANTHROPOLOGY VOLUME 7 US. COAST 8, GEODETIC SURVEY 8455 WITH ADDITIONS SiYe of Russian For? U.S.C.G. LORAN STATION N A U T I C A L MILES 0 gOOO 40D0 YARDS 139? MAP 7.?Southeastern shore of Yakutat Bay. Saint Elias (Schwatka, 1891, p. 866), and 2 years later discovered the lignite beds (Topham, 1889 a, p. 425). It was inland from this region, along the mountain spurs north of Malaspina Glacier, on the Chaix Hills and on Blossom Island, that the Duke of Abruzzi's expedition to Mount Saint Elias noted the tracks of many bears, wolves, foxes, mountain goats and "par- tridges," in and near the isolated remnant of a forest (Filippi, 1900, pp. 106, 120). Bancas Point marks the western side of the entrance to Disenchantment Bay. On it or nearby was a sealing camp in the early 19th century called 'Village on Top of the Cliff,' Gel'-cAkf-'an. This name was also applied to Bancas Point itself. IN THREE PARTS HOMELAND OF THE YAKUTAT TLINGIT 61 The East Side of Yakutat Bay Within the southeastern part of Yakutat Bay, in- cluding Knight Island, were the more settled areas, undoubtedly located there because of the shelter af- forded by the chain of low islands. This shelter also attracted traders, whose visits were added inducements for the natives to congregate here. There were also such natural resources as salmon streams, berries, and timber. I recorded no name for Ocean Cape, which marks the entrance to Yakutat Bay, although Harrington rendered it as 'Kussians' Point' (ititskiikkhwaan xaayyfi). Point Carrew at the mouth of Monti Bay is 'Place Where a Monster Emerged' ('AnAx-daq-'At- qutsitiye). This name puzzled my informant because there are no monsters there now, and none to harm people since Raven ordered them "not to bother humans." A reputedly "Aleut" (Chugach Eskimo) word for the point is TEyixnAq or TeyixnAk. It should be noted that many of the places in this part of the bay have "Aleut" names. "And that is- lands, too?all kinds of Aleut names, Gotex or Kiot'ei language. . . . It's not native language." By "Aleut" is meant Chugach. One explanation for their presence is that they came to Yakutat with the Kussians, an- other is that they were the original inhabitants. How- ever, some informants evidently used "Aleut" to refer to the Eyak-speaking Indians. "When Copper River Indians walked here over the ice there was Aleuts mixed in with them. They made skin canoes." (Minnie Johnson) Yet this informant knew, or later learned, that it was Eyak, Yatqwan ('local people'), who were involved. In any case, the non-Tlingit names were hard for Tlingit informants to pronounce, and many were incorrectly rendered as well as inconsistently recorded. As Davidson (1901 b, p. 44) translated Tebenkov: ". . . all places east [from the Copper River] to Yakootat bay have each four names; given by the Tchugatz [Eskimo of Prince William Sound], the Oogalentz [Eyak], the Copper River Indians [Atna], and the Koloshes [Tlingit]. . . ." Ankau Point, at the northern side of the entrance to Ankau Creek, is 'Aukciaq (or rather 'Xqciylq), an "Eyak" or, more correctly, a Chugach name. At the edge of the woods behind the point is the present ANB (Alaska Native Brotherhood) Cemetery, used by all the residents of Yakutat, and behind that again a pond. It is said that the cemetery was started (in the middle or late 19 th century ?) with the grave house of a murdered Teqwedi shaman, and with the burial of his niece who wished to lie near her uncle. These graves could not be found, although we searched around the shore of the pond. Later (summer of 1952), I heard that the doctor's grave house had been seen near the Army road, but farther up the creek than we had been able to explore. It was in this vicinity, but well inside the creek, that Dixon in 1787 (Beresford, 1789, chart opp. p. 170, pp. 175-176) and Malaspina in 1791 (Galiano, 1802, chart 8; Malaspina, 1885, pp. 161, 346) visited the native cemetery made famous through their descriptions. Possibly this area has been in more or less continual use ever since the 18th century; first as a depository for the ashes of the dead and later as a burial ground. Since tidal currents make the mouth of the creek rather dangerous, there have been several drownings here, and monuments to those who were lost have been erected along the bank of the stream. One of these was a cross in memory of two Kwackqwan brothers who drowned some time before 1900, and in 1949 an impressive marble shaft was set up on the point for a youth of the same sib who had drowned with an Eskimo companion. Also in the vicinity of the former cemetery in the woods, Vancouver's expedition in July 1794, noted a temporarily abandoned village where about 50 dogs had been left behind (Vancouver, 1801, vol. V, p. 396). Although Dixon in 1787, and Malaspina in 1791 noted habitations or buildings in this area (Beresford, 1789, pp. 167, 175; Malaspina, 1849, p. 290; 1885, 161; Wagner, 1936, p. 258; quoted on pp. 311, 312), my informants were uncertain whether there had ever been a village here, and we failed to locate the site. Minnie Johnson remembered that a village here had been deserted because of a war between the Teqwedi inhabi- tants and the Dekina (Haida or Henya Tlingit) from southeastern Alaska, who cut off each others' heads. This is suggestive of Malaspina's report of a war, shortly prior to his visit, and to the descriptions of heads put into separate boxes at the cemetery. The survivors are supposed to have moved to Port Mulgrave on Khantaak Island, according to my informant. Later, however, she denied that there had ever been a village near the mouth of the Ankau. As already indicated, Ankau Creek, including the whole salt water lagoon system which it drains, is called Yakwdatyik, 'Inside Where the Boat Is.' Ankau was known to be a White man's name, but my in- formants were, of course, ignorant that it had been given by Malaspina in honor of the 'chief ('anqawu), or "Ankau June" (Malaspina, 1885, p. 345; Dall and Baker, 1883, p. 207 n.). The pilings on the southeast side of the creek, just inside the mouth, are the ruins of the saltery built in 1901 (Moser, 1901, p. 390). From here, in 1905, a 12-year-old girl is believed to have been stolen by land otters when she tried to walk along the shore to the mission school at Yakutat (p. 754). Monti Bay is Djiwanik or DjiwAnfkta ('inside the 62 SMITHSONIAN CONTRIBUTIONS TO ANTHROPOLOGY VOLUME 7 limb,' likening the bay to the branch of a tree). One informant rendered the name as Tanwanikta, suggest- ing 'a place beside the sea lions.' On the middle of the south shore is a large rock, called the 'Sea Lions' Rock' (tan tEyi) because these animals like to lie on it. Harrington, however, reported that Monti Bay was called Tjuwaanik, an "Aleut" name, and that 'Monti Bay shore' (Tjuwaanik-thA) was the proper name for the present town of Yakutat. The town of Yakutat is at the head of Monti Bay (pis. 22-26). Here are the Government dock where vessels of the Coast Guard and of the Public Health Service tie up; storage tanks for the Standard Oil Company; the cannery and its dock (built 1902-04), with the cannery store, houses for supervisory personnel, the old bunkhouses, the terminus of the railway to Johnson Slough, and other buildings. The cannery store and dock form the center of the economic life of the community. The natives moved to Yakutat about 1919 from the "Old Village" farther north, in order to be near the cannery, although many already had summer homes or tents here, and some families still continue to occupy houses in the Old Village. A well-kept road connects the new Yakutat with the Old Village, and with the airfield about 4 miles south- east, with the Coast Guard Loran Station on the ocean front to the southwest, and from there runs south- eastward to a fishing camp at Lost Eiver. In the middle of the native community of Yakutat is the old Lutheran church, beginning to fall into disrepair in 1954, and the ANB Hall (built about 1921). Beyond this, continuing to the north, is the jail (built in 1949), the post office, school, a general store, Public Health Clinic, and the sites picked in 1954 for a town power plant and for a new Presbyterian church. The Lutheran Evangelical Mission, established in 1889 (the present buildings are newer), is about half a mile farther north along the road that parallels the water. It is called SkunyAkA, 'By the School,' referring to the boarding school formerly run by the mission. The Old Village, from which can be obtained a magnificent view of Mount Saint Elias that is much enjoyed by the inhabitants, is called Qa-iAs-iak-'an, 'Town Between Someone's Jaws.' Harrington was told that the correct name was 'Town Between Someone's Legs' (khaakkAts-^aak-'aan), but that "this word has a bad sound, so they called it 'Between the Jaws.' " Both names suggest its position on a curving gravel beach between two rocky headlands. On the southern hill, between the mission and the Old Village, is a graveyard used between 1890 and 1924, as far as could be judged from the dated tombstones, although some unmarked graves were probably older. On the northern point are some marble monuments to dead members of the Kwacliqwan (pi. 30). The shafts were moved here from their original location when the road was built over the graves. The road winds around the point to end at the lagoon. There were also a few wooden grave houses on the point. The Old Village was founded about 1889 by Indians who had moved across from the village at Port Mulgrave on Khantaak Island so that they could be near the mission and near the store run by a Sitka merchant. The great lineage houses here were first in the "old style," later made of sawed lumber from the sawmill on the lagoon belonging to the mission. Many of the old houses are still occupied (pi. 26). The lagoon which opens north of the Old Village and which runs behind it is called Qaqutsrna (Harrington: khi'ku'tzAnnAh,i.e., qf'Eu'dzAnA). The sawmill belong- ing to the mission was located at its head, and the women still go to the lower stretches of the lagoon to gather cockles, clams, and sea urchins at low tide. The small island at the mouth of the lagoon is 'Canoe Island,' Yakw?at'i, or 'canoe on-it always stays-there' (yakw 'AkAyAxtEnA). Harrington recorded 'island' (xa-t or xaat') 'narrow' ('anAtjitck, in Eyak), or more properly 'ground-narrow' (Vh lAttshftsk, in Eyak). Residents of the Old Village used to keep their big canoes on this island because the beach in front of their houses was too exposed. The larger island to the east is 'Big Berries,' Tl'eq" tlen, and the smaller one just to the north is 'Small Berries,' Tl'eqw liAtsliux, because women used to pick blueberries on them. Puget Cove farther north is Takuk. The landlocked lagoon just south of Canoe Pass (lat. 59?35' N.) is T6Axqatlata (-?- 'inside,' as applied to a bay). The deep water at the lower end of Johnstone Passage, between this lagoon and Puget Cove, was called Daxadaneya. This name, however, evidently referred to the little island near the shore where Peter Lawrence had a camp, since Harrington was told that the name, Daga-tlani-'an (taakkaa ttlaannii 'aan), meant 'deep all around camp,' because the wooded place became an island only at high tide. Khantaak Island, according to Harrington, was called S'uus, or S'uuskhXh, although his Eyak informant pronounced it Tsuus. His informants were unable to translate it and variously guessed that it might be Aleut, Russian or English! I was told that the name was S'uskA, by some said to be an Eyak word, but by others, better informed, reported to mean 'on sus.' The latter was identified from the picture in Peterson (1941, opp. p. 64) as a black turnstone, a bird which can often be seen flying around the island (Emma Ellis). Other informants identified it only as "a pretty bird" especially common in southeastern Alaska, which fits its known range (Gabrielson and Lincoln, 1959 pp. 339-340). Dall (Dall and Baker, 1883, p. 207) reports that "Khantaak" was "adopted by Tebienkoff The Lagoon Grave Monuments ---' Cemefery and site of Russian Blockhouse School Post Office Jail A N B M Church YAKUTAT Cannery Government Dock Road to Airfield Sea Lion Rock NAUTICAL MILE MAP 8.?Yakutat Harbor. IN THREE PARTS HOMELAND OF THE YAKUTAT TLINGIT 63 from the native name." If the term is Tlingit, it prob- ably refers to the lupins (gEntAkw, kantaq, gantaqw) which grow profusely on the open gravel flats of the island. According to Davidson (1869, p. 139) the name is the [Eskimo] word for 'dish.' The native village at Port Mulgrave, properly called S'uskA, 'On the Turnstone,' was inhabited up to about 1893. According to my informants, people moved here from Ankau Point (?), from settlements on the Ankau lakes and from streams southeast of Yakutat, in order to trade furs. One gathers from the reports of Dixon (Beresford, 1789, chart opp. p. 170), Malaspina (1885, p. 156) and others that already in the 18th century this was at least a seasonal camping place. Later, sub- stantial lineage houses were built along the shore, the pond in back was used for washing, and a well to the north was dug for drinking water. The open grassy flat just north of the site is KAtsigAnkiya. The grave- yard used in the late 19th century was on Point Turner, but this was destroyed when the land sank during the earthquake of 1899. Some of the bones were rescued and were reburied in a cemetery which occupies the old village site. The graves here are grouped ac- cording to sib, from south to north: Galyix-Kagwantan, Tl'uknaxAdi, Teqwedi, and Kwac?qwan, probably as the houses were formerly alined. The dates on inscribed stones range from 1908 to 1920, although I know some graves are older. Now the site is overgrown with bushes. People gather strawberries on the sandy flat near Point Turner, or collect tern eggs from the edge of the beach. Seaweed and chitons are found on the rocky point (where the light is now), and in Port Mulgrave there are cockles and mussels. No one lives on Khantaak Island now, except for a White couple with a mink farm near the north end of the island, but the whole island has continued to be a source of black and ribbon seaweed, chitons, cockles, clams, crabs, blueberries, strawberries, salmonberries, and sweet hemlock bark (Goldschmidt and Hass, 1946, pp. 76-77). The reef opposite Point Turner, off the southern end of Yakutat Roads, is De'angeya, referring to the ships as big as 'villages' ('an) that used to anchor nearby. This may be a Tlingit version of what Harrington recorded as the Eyak name for a point on Khantaak Island, about 3 miles from Yakutat, which means '[the little reef] comes out in the middle' (taa aakkiiyyl', i.e., da'agiyA'). The location suggests Village Shoal at Port Mulgrave. One half mile beyond the point mentioned by Har- rington, the latter indicates another point, called in Eyak NixAgAtal (niixxAkkAtthaal). On the mainland opposite is a cove and salt water lake called AAdAcf (xAttAccf), which may be the cove and lagoon behind the 'Berry Islands' (see p. 62), although I have been unable to identify the locality. Pyramid Point, just north of the village site, between Port Mulgrave and Rurik Harbor, is GAnaxwanlk or GanAxwAnik, a place where the people used to gather "wild rhubarb." On the western beach of Khantaak Island "ruby-tinted black sand containing scale gold" was discovered in 1880(?), and created considerable excitement for a few years, while White men were panning it. However, in 1890 or 1891, thousands of dogfish washed ashore, their oil saturating the sand so that mercury could not be used to separate the gold. Then a great wave washed the beach away. In 1905 someone was still trying to work the small bit of sandy beach at the southeastern end of the island (Tarr and Butler, 1909, pp. 165, 167; Scid- more, 1893, p. 131). Minnie Johnson remembers the miners, because one of them married a native woman. I was also told that much of the shore along Point Munoz had sunk "during the Katmai eruption [1911]." This end of the island was further submerged in the earthquake of 1958 and three women picking straw- berries near Point Turner were drowned. The large bay on the east, which almost cuts Khan- taak Island in two, is 'Sea Otter Bay,' Yuxtc geyi (Harrington: ytjxt6ikkeevyii), because the sea otter used to shelter in it during storms. The isthmus here is only 150 yards wide and Harrington's informants reported that the sea otter used to cross overland by it. People used to come to the woods around the bay to collect hemlock bark in the spring, and when one of my informants was a child, living at Khantaak village, she and some other children found a shaman's outfit in a box cached on a big rock in a pond near this bay (see pp. 699-700). A White couple, the Schlichtigs, have a home on the northernmost eastern hook of the island. This is Tebenkov's Tapor or "Hatchet" Point (Dall and Baker, 1883, p. 209), and it may be the 'Low Water Point' (len xayi) of Harrington's informants. A camping place somewhere southwest of the house was called QadAk. Harrington recorded that this campsite (kaattlk) was a place of strawberries and tall grass at a little bay on an island about % mile from the north end of Khantaak Island (see "Crab Island" below). Another (?) camping place in the vicinity was called 'Town Inside the Trees,' 'As-kutu-'an, but this name was also given to a place on the east side of Dolgoi Island (see p. 64). Some- where on the northeast shore of Khantaak Island, however, Dixon in 1787 saw native huts (Beresford, 1789, map. opp. p. 170). The northeast point of the island, known locally as "Strawberry Point," is called Xanda'Aq or Xanduaq, reported to be an Eyak or "Aleut" name. The same name was given to "Crab Island Bay" east of the point. Some confusion results from the fact that, according to Harrington, the whole north end of Khantaak Island was called "Crab 64 SMITHSONIAN CONTRIBUTIONS TO ANTHROPOLOGY VOLUME 7 Island" by the Whites, and XAntA'Ax (a n Eyak name) by the natives. Strawberry Point itself was XAntA'Ax Itfh (X? nose). This Eyak name would appear to have been the original for "Khantaak." "Crab Island," the tiny island in front of the Schlich- tigs' home, at the north end of Johnstone Passage, had the Eyak name Kolet'a'tlk (Harrington: kutlAttLi'tR, i.e., gutlAtjA'lK), referring to ducks standing up in the water and "shaking their wings." As pronounced by the Tlingit, this name sounds like QAlat'al or Kutladaqw. The open water between Khantaak Island and Kriwoi Island on the east is Qiyakw, said to be Eyak for 'open place' (i.e., giyAg, according to Krauss).20 The same name (Qeyaq) was also given to some spot on one of the nearby islands. Johnstono Passage, east of Khantaak Island, was called GunaqAdBt sidi, "GunaqAdEt's Pass," referring to an enormous, wealth-bringing water monster that was once seen here, or at Canoe Pass (Swanton, 1909, p. 165: GonaqAde't). Informants were uncertain whether this name applied more properly to Johnstone Passage or to Canoe Pass, which branches off it from the east, south of Dolgoi Island. Canoe Pass was called DlidEsit, 'the channel on the way to the place behind' (Harrington: Teekkhii-siit or tuxw tee ssilt, i.e., deki sit or duiwde sit). On the mainland side of the pass, just above high water, are two conspicuous rocks that look like crouching figures. They are called HindE turd yakw cuwa, or Lundak tuni tEjri. My informants were reluctant to translate these words, but they refer to a young man who ran his boat on the rocks in the dark and cracked it while he was sneaking after his sweetheart. The rocks are said to have been once farther from the shore (i.e., the land has recently subsided ?). A rock on the north side of the pass was once a bear swimming toward the mainland, but he turned to stone when an adolescent girl passing in a canoe peeked at him. It is called Daq-'l-'xrwahuwu xuts, 'To-the-Mainland Was-Swimming Bear.' Harring- ton's informants called it the 'outward swimming bear' (taak-'uwwuhhuwwu-xxuus, i.e., dd,k-'uwuhuwu-xiis), heading for the mainland. There is said to have been a village on both sides of Canoe Pass, so huge that ravens trying to fly overhead would be overcome by smoke from the houses. The name, 'AgEtl' wuhiwa t'A?iyE(?), is said to refer to a contest as to who could make the most noise eating rotten salmon spawn. We found only a small shell- heap on the island on the north side of the channel. 20 Although this name is pronounced giyAg in Eyak, it is almost certainly not of Eyak origin, but ia more probably Chugach, according to Michael Krauss (letter of December 20, 1966). See also the same name applied to a place on Dolgoi Island, on the upper Situk River (p. 79), and to Wingham Island (p. 103). The lagoon on the north, just west of Dolgoi Island, is GAxw-'adus-gewiyE,' Black-Ducks They-Netted Place,' or "Where They Caught Black Ducks (gAxw or gAxw) With a Net (gew)," because the Russians used to go fowling here. Harrington renders this as 'Black Duck Place' (ka&xw 'aatijskeewwe'h, i.e., g&xw 'adire gewe1). There was once a settlement or camp in the vicinity. Dolgoi Island, in Russian "Long Island" (Dall and Baker, 1883, p. 209, n.) had no single native name; rather there were names for various places on it. However, Harrington gives Qiyaq (khiiyaak') as the Eyak name for the whole island, while my informants restricted Qeyaq (i.e., giyAg according to Krauss) to a locality on the northeast side, opposite Kriwoi Island. A small site on the southeast corner, opposite Gregson Island, may have been the settlement or camp called 'Village in the Woods,' 'As-kutu-'an, reported to have been occupied in Russian times. A place on the west(?) shore is Qiyu-xAdi-'ak. A lake or lagoon on the island is associated with the clever escape of a Tlingit hunter from an ambush by a war party of "Aleuts" (Chugach) led by a Russian. The lake is called WAxXq, but because the "Aleuts" had hidden their kayaks there it is also known as "Aleuts' Lake," Got'ex 'ayi. Gregson and Fitzgerald Islands, the "Sister Islands" of the Whites, are called 'Ildihyal (heard as dAMal; Harrington: 'iltritiiyaal), meaning in Eyak that they are close together. Two Indians, now dead, used to live on Gregson Island, and later a White man tried to raise mink and goats on it. Kriwoi Island, "Crooked Island" in Russian (Dall and Baker, 1883, p. 209, n.), is known locally as "John Bremner's Island." Harrington reports that it is called KAcayani (M:ACCaayyaannii) an "Aleut" name. The smaller Otmeloi Island, "Shoals Island" in Russian, is "Hardy Trefzger's Island," known as 'AnihiwAq. Harrington reports that the word ('Annrl- luwwAk) means 'head island' in Eyak, referring to the shape of the north end, and that the island is also called "Head Island" in English. Krauss believes that the name is probably Chugach, and definitely not Eyak. Krutoi Island, "Steep Island" in Russian, is the northernmost in the line of small islands, and is usually known as "John Ellis' Island," or "Fox Island." It has an Eyak name, Ko'et (Harrington: Ku'eet, meaning unknown; Krauss: ku'e'd, 'place of (an absent) some- thing'), meaning, according to Annie Harry, the print of a body, as one would make in bed, but here referring to a depression in the sand, since the island was a camping place. Yakutat Chief Yaxodaqet, the head of the Kwaci:qwan sib, sometimes stayed on this island, and sometimes at the Humpback Salmon Creek on the mainland opposite. His slaves stayed on the island, "and every time they see bad weather coming they go around and tell the people not to go out [in canoes]" IN THREE PARTS HOMELAND OF THE YAKUTAT TLINGIT 65 I was told. This chief, who probably died about 1880 was the second of that name. His grave is sup- posed to be in the cemetery near the mission. B. A. Jack (1860-1948) carved a wooden Raven for bis monument, which was later sold to a museum. Persons who were born about 1855 are reported to have said that during their childhood there were no trees on Krutoi Island. According to tradition, these islands were bare when the first Kwackqwan came across the ice from the west side of Yakutat Bay. The reef running southeast from Krutoi Island is CAgulq?x. This is said to be a Tlingit name but was not translated. If one follows the mainland shore northeastward after coming through Canoe Pass, the first large bay south of Gregson Island is Nexqit (Harrington: neexkhft, Eyak). Redfield Cove, farther north, was 'Atl'at, probably the Eyak V-tFahd for 'head of the river' (Krauss). A camping place was reported at the north point. On the chart, a trail is indicated as running from the cove east to Redfield Lake, one of the many lakes drained by the Situk River, and the native name most probably refers to this lake (see p. 79). One informant, however, insisted that there was no lake in the locality indicated. On the mainland shore, two thirds of the distance from Redfield Cove to Humpback Salmon Creek, there are two conspicuous white boulders, at about the half- tide line. These are said to be two old women who were quarreling with each other when they were turned to stone by the baleful glance of an adolescent girl. They are called Wuc-dAqan-tE, 'With-Each-Other Quarreling Stones.' (Some informants gave this name to the two rocks on the south side of Canoe Pass.) The famous Humpback Salmon Creek (lat. 59?39'N.) is called Kwack hfni; kwacl? being the Eyak word for 'humpback salmon,' and hini the Tlingit word for 'stream of.' A place on the lake which it drains is called NaxtlaxAk-'akA (see Situk River, p. 79). Al- though informants disagree as to who were the original owners of this stream, all concur that it was purchased by the Ginexqwan immigrants from the Copper River, who thereby acquired their present name Kwaci:qwan from the stream. Minnie Johnson remembers stopping in spring at the stream to get salmon and big cockles. The latter were 6 inches long and had to be speared because the tide did not go out far enough to uncover them. The area about Eleanor Cove and Knight Island offers favorite spring camping spots. Here families go for halibut and for the first salmon, to hunt the bears emerging from their dens, or simply to take delight in watching the cubs playing on the bare slopes of snow or scree, and to enjoy the beauties of the unfolding spring. Now hemlock and spruce bark are juicy with delicious sap, and the fresh green stalks of wild celery are crisp. Herring spawn, seaweed, and sea urchins may also be gathered. People will stay here until it is time to move farther up to the sealing camps in Disenchantment Bay. The south point of Eleanor Cove is called "Around the Face," because it is supposed to look like a face. I transcribed the native name as QayuKotla, but if the name is Tlingit, this must be incorrect. Eleanor Cove, locally known as "Chicago Harbor," has been called 'Asi?ta ('asyikta?, 'back in among the trees'?), and Tl'acanaqaU. Harrington renders the second as Tl'aca niqat (tl'aacaa nikkhaat), referring to a V- shaped canyon. The head of the cove is L'uxcayi, 'At the Head of Muddy Water,' from the glacier-fed stream (1'ux) that enters it (Harrington: tl'uux-caak). Coal was said to have been found on the slope above. Harrington also gives the name Kayiy&at for a large canyon at the head of the cove, and seems to place the muddy stream (tl'uux) farther north along the shore. Eleanor Island is LaxAtc, and was also bought by the ancestors of the Kwackqwan from the original owners. According to Harrington, the name LAxAt6 (lAxxlt6) is believed to be Aleut, although "the only time the Aleuts came in here was when they were hunt- ing sea otters and got caught in a storm and came in here for the duration of a bad spell of weather." Knight Island was Q-lnlwXs, an "Aleut" or Eyak name. (Harrington gives it as gAnAwAs (kAnnAwwAs); Krauss suggests that it is from the Eyak word gAlAWAs, 'water extends in an indefinite shape,' or 'flows in an indefinite bed.') A Tlingit name used by only one informant, Qacayi iat', 'Human Head Island,' probably applied more properly to Otmeloi Island, since this would be a translation of what was alleged to be the Eyak (Chugach?) name (see p. 64). Knight Island was the first territory acquired by the Copper River immigrants, who obtained it by purchase after one of their women, a chief's daughter or sister, had been prevented by the owners from picking strawberries on it. At that time it was just a big strawberry patch, without trees. Informants disagree as to whether the payment was made by the woman's father (Garyix- Kagwantan or TlaxayiK-Teqwedi), by her uncle, or by her brother, although all acknowledge that the Kwac]?qwan obtained it through this purchase. My informants were also uncertain as to whether the original owners had ever had a real village on it, and as to the period when the first reported permanent houses on it were built. These last seem to have in- cluded the Kwackqwan Fort House, and the Teqwedi Bear House. Certainly the Teqwedi lived here at one time, for there is a tradition that a blind man of the TlaxayiK-Teqwedi, who had been left behind when his relatives went to sealing camp, was abused by a 66 SMITHSONIAN CONTRIBUTIONS TO ANTHROPOLOGY VOLUME 7 party of ThikwaxAdi from Dry Bay (see p. 262). I was not told, however, whether there was a village or a camp on Knight Island at that time. When Jack Ellis (Goldschmidt and Haas, 1946, p. 76) assigned Knight Island to the Teqwedi, I believe he was think- ing of the leading chief of the village or camp, not of general territorial rights, since these were claimed by the Kwackqwan. Certainly, up to modern times, the south shore of the island has been used as a camping place for hunters going up and down the bay. Here, for example, in the last century, the older brother of one of my informants had to camp because his canoe was overloaded with seals. The land otters tried to kidnap him, but were defeated through the efforts of a shaman, his uncle (pp. 716, 753-754). At the present time, two White men have places on the south side of the island. Most informants agreed that the site on the south shore, 'Old Town,' TlAkw-'an, had been abandoned before the Russians came, although they also believed that the name had been given to it by the wealthy Teqwedi house chief and shaman, Xatgawet, to make people think it was as high class as the Chilkat village of Klukwan. (Swanton, 1908, p. 397, renders this as Laku-an [tlakw-an], 'Renowned Town.') My most reliable informant, however, insisted that iXatgawet had nothing to do with Knight Island, and had lived after the Russians (pp. 246-247). The site, occupied in both late prehistoric and protohistoric times, has already been described (de Laguna et al, 1964). Accord- ing to some, its correct name should be "Raven Falling Down," Yel 'ada qutciyE(?), because the smoke from the many houses would overcome any raven attempt- ing to fly over the town. Others gave this name (Yet 'adAx kAl tciye?) to a reported site a little farther east on the island. Knight Island seems to have been Malaspina's "Isle of Pines" (Isla Pineda or Ma de Pineda), de- scribed as a fairly high island, heavily wooded, with grave monuments on the south shore facing east, like those seen on Ankau Creek (Malaspina, 1885, pp. 164, 340, 346). The island was near the mountainous main- land where the bottom dropped off sharply, and here the launches of the Descubierta and Atrevida were anchored in July, 1791, after having explored as far north as Haenke Island. The north end of Knight Island is its 'head,' GAnAWAS cada; the reef outside the island is GwAtsitta (Harring- ton : kwAtsilaa). On the mainland, opposite the southeast point of Knight Island, the stream that drains the northern flanks of Mount Tebenkof is simply 'Muddy Water,' L'ux (Harrington: tl'uux-caak). The mountain north of this stream has a sandy slope toward the water and is called 'Sand Mountain,' Tl'ew-ca. The small island, opposite the middle of Knight Is- land and close to the mainland shore, is Nukw, 'Little Fort' (see de Laguna et al, 1964, p. 22). On Little Fort Island (as we have named it), we found the remains of stone defences, reportedly built by the Teqwedi as pro- tection against the "Aleuts." The island would have been easier to defend before it was elevated 12% feet in the earthquake of 1899, which exposed a landing beach. Eggs of a sardinelike fish, 'Thunderbird fish' (xetl xadi), were obtained from under the rocks along the mainland shore between Little Fort Island and the north end of Knight Island. One family from Yakutat used to camp regularly each March on the mainland point just above Little Fort Island before going farther up the bay to sealing camp. Here they used dip nets to catch smelt(?) that came right up to the shore. This camp was on the beach raised by the earthquake. According to Harrington the canyon that comes down opposite the north end of Knight Island was Hasdanigag (haastannikak). A deep canyon with a small river in it (apparently the same one?) he variously transcribes as Kox-gik, or Gagfk, or as Gagil naxgi-t6 (kaakf-k or kaakil naaxki-t6). I was told that there had been an "Aleut" camp, Goxqik(?), at the mouth of the stream across from the north point of Knight Island, but the inhabitants were all killed off by the Kwacl:qwan. "The name GwAxgEkw is Aleut [Eyak?] for 'mountain stream.' Sea gulls used to lay their eggs there. There was no grass. Quite a few families settled in there. . . . It's right across from Knight Island. A stream comes out. It used to be shacks all the way down there on a sandspit. Now it's all trees. I think that the name is Aleut because I never heard that gEkw business in Tlingit. In our language it would be 'mountain creek.' They have a war at that time, and some of the bunch . . . made some kind of protection?I don't know what. I didn't see anything there. . . . They just try to beat one another there for eggs." (Minnie Johnson) The informant knew no details about the war. Roosevelt Creek is the larger stream just north of Mount Hoorts (i.e., xuts, 'brown bear'). The creek, "the biggest canyon of all," was called GiyAxAq (ki-yAkik caat or KiiyAMk or Ki-yAXAk) according to Harrington. The big sand and gravel bluffs north of this are Tl'ew-ca-tlen, "Big Sand Mountain.' Harring- ton records the same name but assigns it to Logan Bluff, see below, indicating that the widest rock slide near Roosevelt Creek is Ta-k-wucixihyAh. The point beyond this is 'Low Tide Point,' Len xayi, because so many boulders are exposed at low tide. The stream just north of the bluff, (below Mount Hendrickson ?), is 'Agwag ('aakwaak) which Harrington was told was a Tlingit, an Eyak, or an Aleut name by different informants. Beyond this again was another rock slide. All this long sandy stretch, from Roosevelt Creek to IN THREE PARTS HOMELAND OF THE YAKUTAT TLINGIT 67 the last stream south of Point Latouche, is Logan Beach, "Logging Bluff," where the waves beating against the bluffs wash down small amounts of gold- bearing sands. These were being worked by three pros- pectors in 1905, but offered bare wages (Tarr and Bulter, 1909, p. 166). My informants did not mention the miners or the gold, although Minnie Johnson remembered stopping here as a child to get edible hemlock bark when the family was moving up the bay to sealing camp. The last stream south of Point Latouche, described to Harrington as a short canyon with trees in it, was called Tl'e-tshu-t (tl'eettshuut) by his informants. At the north bank of this stream and at the north end of Logan Beach, was the site of the old sealing camp, Tlaxata (or La'xa'ta), used before the natives had rifles, when floating ice in Disenchantment Bay rendered camping dangerous above Point Latouche. The old campsite was back in the woods, on the flat between the stream and the rocky slope. Several now middle-aged and elderly persons report that the shift from this camp to sites above Point Latouche was made when they were small children (i.e., about 1880-85?), yet their accounts are not consistent. Furthermore, according to historical traditions, it was early in the 19th century that the Tlaxayik-Teqwedi were massacred at a camp above Point Latouche (pp. 264, 270). Perhaps there were periods or seasons in the middle of the last century when the campsite of Tlaxata was the northernmost point that could be reached safely. Malaspina certainly found the natives camped here in July, 1791 (1885, pp. 162-164). The site as he described it faced south and was protected from northern winds, although the shore was exposed to heavy surf. On July 1, the young Indian chief guided Malaspina's boats north of Point Latouche to a gravelly beach at the foot of a gully between two fairly tall mountains, where there was a flat with pleasant vegeta- tion, a spot corresponding to the later campsites visited by the Harriman Alaska Expedition in 1899. Malaspina found the water rilled with floating ice and, as is well known, was blocked by an ice barrier at Haenke Island. It may be significant that his guide insisted on returning to his camp below the point before night. Disenchantment Bay and Russell Fiord Point Latouche, 'Ana'dfyac ('Ana'diyac), said to be an "Aleut" name, is rendered in Tlingit as 'matEyac, "in front of the stone platform." Harrington's Eyak informant (George Johnson) pronounced it as 'uunnaaddiiyaac or 'uunnAttAyyAhc, meaning in Eyak '[Old Raven] has his young ones in here,' referring to some wave-cut caves at the point. Krauss suggests that it may be the Eyak 'u-nahd 'idAyahc, 'month when (animals) bear young.' It is a conspicuous and important landmark. It was, in fact, cited by an informant as an example of something always noticed. On rounding it, one enters Disenchantment Bay, leaving behind the ocean swells and the forests, to come face to face with the magnificent panorama of snowy peaks and glaciers that make the 'heart' ('Ate%) of Yakutat Bay so beautiful to all who see it. Here are rocky slopes, bare except for scrubby alders, willows, and wild flowers, inviting to the hunter of ptarmigan, bear, and mountain goat. The only trees are a few cottonwoods or balsam poplars. The waters are filled with floating ice on which the seals he, sometimes whole families in rows of up to six or seven on a single cake. One evening in late July, 1952, there were seals stretched out on the ice all over the bay as far as we could see. The water was faintly phosphorescent, due to tiny shrimps, according to my informants. The glare from the water and ice is very strong, so that women and children in the old days used to smear their faces with dark paint to prevent sunburn. Men were supposed to put charcoal rings around then1 eyes when they passed Point Latouche, (undoubtedly to protect them from the glare), although an informant said it was to prevent rain (p. 806). Although Point Latouche itself is bare of trees, yet there is supposed to be still standing the old dead trunk on which the Tl'uknaxAdi scout spied upon the sealing camp farther north (p. 263). Our Indian friends and ourselves looked for it in vain. Between Point Latouche and Haenke Island are four flats at the mouths of streams where sealing camps were established. They are here described from south to north. (1) Qegdtleya' (Harrington: khe'-ku-le-ylh), said (erroneously?) to mean 'burned up' in Eyak.21 This flat extends between two streams, the mouths of which are close together. Behind this is a cliff or rock slide called 'Mountain Goat's Fort' (DJINUWU nuwu), where the father of one of my friends nearly fell when hunting black bear. (2) The next camp is WuganiyE (Harrington: wiiukaaniyeh), meaning 'burned up' in Tlingit. This was where the Tlaxayik-Teqwedi had a fortified camp, surrounded by stonewalls with loopholes for guns. It 21 Dr. Michael E. Krauss informs me that this word does not mean 'burned up' inEyak, unless the original form was qi'qu' lAyah/Uya-' meaning 'place where plural things are put on the fire,' although this is not a form which he has encountered in Cordova Eyak. He suggests that the name might be derived from a garbled kuxu-nJayAh, '(something's) tooth/teeth.' 68 SMITHSONIAN CONTRIBUTIONS TO ANTHROPOLOGY VOLUME 7 was probably on the rocky dome in the middle of the valley. The defenders were all killed by the Tl'uknaxAdi from Akwe River and Dry Bay. The baby brother of Minnie Johnson died and was cremated here, about the time of the Harriman Alaska Expedition. (3) Calahonda Creek was 'Big Valley,' CanAX tlen. The camp of that name was close under the hills at the north side. (4) North of this was 'Narrow Valley,' CanAx kusa (Harrington: c&annAx kussl). Most informants said that there were only three main camps in this area, that is, at the first of these localities. The whole beach was said to be called Qeg6tleya', the first camp was WuganiyE; then came a small camping place on the "gravel between two [main] camps," 'iyawa kAt SA tAna (SA is 'glacial mud'); the second main camp was at 'Narrow Valley'; and last was the camping place at the mouth of Calahonda Creek. This would leave the stream north of the last without a name. Harrington was also told that the double canyon just above Point Latouche was called Xe-khuusAyA. (The first camp would have been be- tween the mouths of these streams.) At these various camps the people used to gather in June and July, setting up bark huts, canvas tents and smokehouses. The men hunted seals, and sometimes bears and ptarmigan. The women flenaed the seals, dried the meat, rendered the fat, and stretched the skins. At this time of year seagull eggs were gathered at various places in Disenchantment Bay. At low tide, seaweed, mussels and chitons could be obtained, and wild celery grew near a pond behind the gravel beach (Minnie Johnson). The Harriman Alaska Expedition visited these camps in mid-June, 1899 (pis. 72-80). Grinnell (1901, pp. 158-165) and other members of the party have left descriptions of the camps and of the methods of hunting and preparing the seal oil and skins. As Burroughs (1901, p. 60) observes, while the natives are here, and later at the summer fish camps, the village of Yakutat is nearly deserted. "The encampment we visited," he reports, "was upon the beach of a broad gravelly delta flanked by high mountains. It was redolent of seal oil." Grinnell (1901, p. 158) specified "three camps of Indians all engaged in the hair seal fishery. The three camps were thought to represent Indians from different localities, Juneau, Yakutat, and Sitka." When at Yakutat he had been told that Indians from as far away as Sitka came to Disenchantment Bay for seals. How- ever, I think it more likely that the camps represented sib groups than village groups. "They were camped on the gravelly beach, just above high water, and for the most part occupied ordinary canvas wall-tents, though some few lived in the square bark-covered shelters which in ancient times were their summer homes." He estimated that about 300-400 people were camped here (p. 161). "For many generations this has been a sealing ground for the Indians, and in some places the beach is white with weathered bones and fragments of bones that represent the seal catches of many years. The surroundings are not attractive, for the place resembles a slaughter-house. The stones of the beach are shiny with grease; seal carcasses and fragments of carcasses are spread along the shore, and there is an all-pervading odor of seal and seal oil. The place is a busy one. Back of the beach is a lagoon of fresh water, from which the Indians get their drinking water, in which the children wade about, sailing their canoes, and in which the mothers bathe their babies" [Grinnell, 1901, p. 165]. According to C. Hart Merriam, a copy of whose field notes was given to me by Dr. Robert Heizer, University of California, Berkeley, the main camp visited by the expedition was occupied by about 150- 200 Indians. "There are probably at least 600 skins in this village of seals killed during the past two weeks [June 8-22]. And there are two other, somewhat smaller villages a little farther up the coast?say % mile and one mile away, where many more seal skins are drying." Haenke Island, close to the eastern shore of the bay above these camps is locally known as "Egg Island" a literal translation of its Tlingit name, KwAt' ^afi (Harrington: kwAii xaatfii). It is still a favorite place for gathering seagull eggs hi early June from nests on the cliff along the south side. The latter is called DA? tlen ('big place behind'?), or "Big Cliff." Below this is a gravel beach, now a much frequented camping place. When Minnie Johnson was a small child in the 1880's, her family used to come here to get eggs. At that time, before the earthquake had elevated the whole island 17-18% feet, there was no gravel flat on the south shore and no large point at the southeast end of the island, only a small rocky point called 'AdAx, ('AdAi?). As she observed, after we had picknicked on the gravel beach, June 11, 1952, "Egg Island has changed, too. There wasn't no such thing as that rock point. That side where we built a fire seemed to be raised up. That's terrible! That's just a small rock point there [before]. In olden days they don't let the women go up on the mountain . . . just the men. The women might have an accident. . . . They never let the women climb for eggs." While the men and boys were scaling the rocky ledges, the women were supposed to remain at the small point. On the occasion of our visit with a large party, however, a number of the younger women and girls also climbed up the cliff. "In my grandma's time, my mother told me, an Aleut climbed the cliff on Egg Island for eggs. He fell down IN THREE PARTS HOMELAND OF THE YAKUTAT TLINGIT 69 and smashed all to pieces." (MJ) Several other persons on the excursion mentioned this accident. The bight on the mainland just northeast of Haenke Island is sometimes used as a sealing camp when the ice is not too heavy. This is called Xa tien tciye, referring to the 'Big Point,' ?a tien. It was perhaps late in the 19th century before this site could be used, for Minnie Johnson declared that before her father's death in 1888, the ice prevented camping above Haenke Island. In 1895(?) her stepfather took a party, including her baby sister (born 1893), to camp here. During the night they were nearly drowned by a wave from a calving iceberg which swept over them. She also remembered how, despite parental prohibition, the children used to jump on the cakes of floating ice. "We dance and move back and forth and think it's lots of fun. . . . They were afraid the ice might break in two and we would slide in between." Kwaclqwan territory included Haenke Island and as much of Disenchantment Bay as could be reached by seal hunters (see pis. 18-19). Above Haenke Island, 'at the head' of Disenchant- ment Bay, 'upstream' (naki), one sees the full extent of the glaciers. Turner Glacier, formerly Dalton or First Glacier, is on the right, opposite the upper end of Haenke Island. It is called by some 'Narrow Glacier' (sit kusa). Harrington recorded 'ixtee'aa-ssit, 'the lower glacier,' as its correct name. The huge Hubbard Glacier, Second Glacier (Harrington: tlxxaa-ssif), that thrusts its 'nose' (sit; lutu) into the elbow bend at the junction of Disenchantment Bay and Russell Fiord, is usually known simply as the 'Big Glacier,' (sit tlen). The bay at its west end is Weyna ta, named for the white clay (weyna; Harrington: weenaa), that is found here. This is "something that grows on the rocks. They use it for paint," Harrington was told. The name of the bay is literally 'gypsum-inside-place' (Harrington: w6enna- atthAh). Several informants told me that this substance was never taken: "Long ago if you touch it, it gets foggy for days and days." The same taboo applied to other rare minerals or rocks found in this area. One man told of being stuck for 2 days with several hunting companions on the western side of Disenchantment Bay by the north wind, which apparently packed the ice against the shore. They had no food, and to make a place to sleep had to spread sand over the ice. Finally they made their way down to Esker Creek, thence back across the bay, and up to the camp above Point Latouche. People used to gather sea gull eggs from the eastern, moraine-covered part of Hubbard Glacier, 'Black Glacier,' Sit tutc. This nesting place was called 'Eggs' Town,' K>At-'ani. All the natives on the boat which took us up the bay in July 1952, agreed that Hubbard Glacier had advanced in recent years, and it was clear that the front extended farther into the bay than on the chart (U.S. C. & G.S., chart #8455, 6th ed., 1945). They reported that they no longer dared to camp on Osier Island because of the danger of waves from calving bergs. This island, on the point between Dis- enchantment Bay and Russell Fiord, is called 'Little Egg Island' KwAt &ati feAtsktx (Harrington, xaat kutsku, 'small island'). There is said to be coal on the hillside above it. My informant who had been here before the earthquake reported that there was formerly deep water behind the island, where there is now a bar. Rounding Osier Island, we come into Russell Fiord. In this stretch there are a few young cottonwoods or balsam poplars, and willows full of ptarmigan, but my guide, born 1914, remembered when it was treeless. The long, low, terraced mountain ridge that stretched along the northwestern side of Russell and Nunatak Fiords is his "favorite mountain." He confirmed Tarr's observations (see p. 36) that he had almost never seen a bear here, although they live on the south and west side of the fiords. There is a camping spot on the west side of Russell Fiord on the gravel flat behind Marble Point. This is called Nei xayi (Harrington: niix xaayyii), 'White Quartz Point,' because of this rock which also occurs in the vicinity. The cliff on the northwest side of Cape Enchantment is 'GunaqAdEt's Cuff' (gtmaqAdEt gel'i; Harrington: kunnaakhAtteet kitti'n). Opposite Cape Enchantment, Nunatak Fiord stretches to the east, and as one goes up it, the water becomes progressively more murky with silt. The vegetation dwindles to mosses, and finally the sides are nothing but bare rocks and gray rubble, for the glacier has left them too recently for life to have yet found a foothold. One man estimated that Nunatak Glacier had retreated 3 miles between 1950 and 1952; another remembered that in 1915 it had jutted out "around the corner" of the nunatak, between its seaward and its landward arms. Harrington in 1940 received similar information. Nunatak Glacier, Third Glacier (Harrington: nAski'aa ssft), is also known as 'Ate? sit ('glacier at its heart' ?), probably the same as Harrington's 'way back small glacier' (Atte'ek-'aa-ssitt:). It is also called 'Narrow Glacier' (sit kusa) or 'Tiny Glacier' (sit kAtsKux), but my informants disagreed as to what was the correct name. Harrington was told that it was a 'female glacier' (cute sit') (p. 818). One of my informants said that when the original inhabitants of Yakutat sold all their lands, they went to southeastern Alaska (Chilkat area), by an overland route, going inland from sft kusa, which she placed with some uncertainty in Nunatak Fiord. It should be remembered that Nunatak, 70 SMITHSONIAN CONTRIBUTIONS TO ANTHROPOLOGY VOLUME 7 Hidden and Fourth Glacier near the head of Kussell Fiord are all arms of the great "through glacier" which stretches southeast to the Alsek River, and were all highways for travel into the interior. The native descriptive names, 'narrow glacier' and 'way-back glacier' seem to have been applied to both Nunatak and Fourth Glacier (see below). Off the point between Nunatak Fiord and the south- ern part of Russell Fiord there was formerly a small island, or low point, used as a camping place. It was called Gel' xatfAlu (Harrington: kitl'xaat'AkJhiu). The most striking peak (2,780 feet high) of the Mount Draper Range on the south side of Nunatak Fiord is known as 'Dollar or Silver Mountain,' Dana ca or DAna ca (Harrington: taanaa-caa 'silver mountain'), from the silvery shine of the wet rocks on its flanks which can be seen from a great distance. The many springs or trickles of water from melting patches of snow are said to make the shining rocks very slippery. Minnie Johnson remembers that her father used to peel mica from the rocks. There are bird cliffs on the southside of Nunatak Fiord, just north of Mount Draper. These are called 'Cormorants' Cliffs' Yuqw gel'i, from the many birds that nest on their ledges. There is said to be a lake on top of the hill above the cliffs, where soapberries may be found. Mountain goats are hunted on both sides of the fiord. Turning south up Russell Fiord, we pass the moraine- filled valley of Hidden Glacier, where the ice has melted back since the chart was drawn. This bay is sometimes called 'Mud Bay' (see below). The area is a good one in which to hunt mountain goats. Harrington recorded the name 'Mouldy' (khAtlhaax) for a bench where mountain goats were hunted, so called because the face of the mountain was said to look as if it were mouldy (decaying?). South of Hidden Glacier and opposite Mount Tebenkof, is a point off the end of which is a tiny island (not shown on U.S. C. and G.S. Chart #8402). The island is called 'Seals' Rock,' tsa 'itci (Harrington: tshaa-ttheeyyii or tshaa-'ittjii), because seals used to bask on it before it became covered with bushes. Jack Ellis in 1940 spoke to Harrington of a "big catastrophy" connected with the shores of Russel Fiord 'behind Seal Rock' (tshaa-'iittcii t'aak), which occurred when "four lakes became three." This would have been when the ice barrier across Russell Fiord broke. Fourth Glacier, far up Beasley Creek, has apparently melted back one or two miles since the chart was made. It was referred to as 'Narrow Glacier' (sftf kusa) by one informant; another used the term sit qusAnayi, possibly referring to the place where the glacier had once been. Harrington also heard it called 'narrow glacier' and 'head of the bay, or way-back glacier' ('Atteek-'aa-sit') Cape Stoss, opposite the mouth of Beasley Creek, is LAqAqal or LaguqAl, which I was told was an Eyak word meaning "it's got the glacier in its mouth," as one might say of a dog with a bone.22 Harrington recorded IX' kohkkhooi, 'where (two mountains) bit the glacier.' This is because Fourth Glacier once extended all the way across, making the head of Russell Fiord a fresh- water lake. At that time, hazarded Harry K. Bremner, all the glaciers on the east side of the fiord also extended across it. Indeed, as we know (pp. 27-28), probably all of Russell Fiord north of Cape Stoss, Nunatak Fiord, and Disenchantment Bay were filled with ice until relatively recently. At that time the Russel Fiord Lake drained out through the east branch of the Situk River. The ice barrier broke when my informant's father was a young man (about 1855-60?). "Mud Bay," or the expanded head of Russell Fiord is called literally 'bay of mud' (kaixkw geyi; Harring- ton: kutl'kA-keeyyli), or 'this was the head of Situk' (sitAk CAt 'ayE). The former outlet of the Situk River is SitAk ta, 'iti, "the Situk used to be there." There were formerly many seals on the small island opposite its mouth. A stream south of Beasley Creek on the east side of Mud Bay is called WAt lAxel, and a stream south of that was QudEnixl qAnik hini. Most of these names are said to be Eyak, although they cannot be recognized as such and seem to have been given a Tlingit form. The second cove below Cape Stoss is "slough below the point" (probably lu-yik-'e?, 'nose inside slough'). The 3,000-foot peak between Fourth Glacier and Russell Fiord, south of Mount Pinta and north of Beasley Creek, is 'Mountain at the Head of Situk' (SitAk cak). This was where the Teqwedi used to hunt mountain goats. It should be noted that in coming to the head of Russell Fiord we have entered the territory of the Teqwedi, whose main settlements were on the Situk and Ahrnklin Rivers to the south. Presumably Russel] Fiord north of Cape Stoss, Nunatak Fiord, and Disen- chantment Bay above Haenke Island were not claimed by any sib, because they had been until so recently blocked by ice. Thus, while several well-informed Yakutat natives reported going into these areas to hunt and to gather eggs, they added, "There is no special ownership up there" (Jack Ellis, Sam George, etc., to Goldschmidt and Hass, 1946, p. 75). There is said to be a run of humpback salmon in Russell Fiord every even-numbered year. This perhaps indicates something of the length of time taken to 22 Dr. Michael Krauss advises that la'cU.qAqa-1 would be the correct Eyak form for 'is biting a glacier.' In the name recorded the dA- is missing, the mark of a d-class noun like la' 'glacier.' IN THREE PARTS HOMELAND OF THE YAKUTAT TLINGIT 71 establish a run when new spawning grounds become available, since there could have been no salmon entering the fiord from Yakutat Bay while the ice barrier was present. After it broke, the Situk Eiver no longer drained the head of the fiord, so they could not enter from this direction. John Ellis, who pointed out and named most of the landmarks during a trip to the head of Russell Fiord in July, 1952, said that there were as many place names for localities in Russell Fiord as in Yakutat Bay, but that he did not know them as well. Harrington made the same trip in 1940 with John Ellis and the latter's father, Jack Ellis, as guides, and later checked over the foreign names with George Johnson. YAKUTAT BAY TO DRY BAY So far, our trip up Yakutat Bay has to some extent followed the movements of the people from their winter homes at Yakutat to the spring and early summer camps. In former days the winter villages, as well as the mid-summer and fall fishing camps, were on the sheltered waters southeast of Yakutat. Com- mercial fishing during the summer is now done off the mouths of the larger streams draining the coastal plain between Dry Bay and Yakutat Bay (and even farther away), but in autumn, when the season is over, a number of families still go inside the sloughs or lagoons to put up fish for their own winter use. Fall and winter hunting and trapping camps were usually located up the streams near the mountains; others were closer to the shore in order to hunt seals on the sandbars. From mid-summer to fall, berries were gathered and edible roots were dug on the flats. Families without children in school may stay on into the winter to hunt, or return in early spring. In the older days, the eulachon runs in February and March were particularly important. Before the present school was opened in Yakutat there must have been much more coming and going, or residence at the "winter camps. Between Yakutat and Dry Bay, a distance of 52 statute miles (45 nautical miles), the coastal plain is divided into sections from the mountains to the sea. These belong to the different sibs. Thus, the Ankau lagoon system within Phipps Peninsula and the lakes to the southeast that drain into it belong to the Kwackqwan. The eastern boundary of their territory actually runs from the Number Two Runway of the airfield northeast to Cape Stoss, and includes the northernmost tributary to the Situk River and a small bit along the western edge of Mud Bay. Lost River and Situk River, 11 and 14 miles east of Ocean Cape, belong to the Bear House branch of the Teqwedi; Ahrnklin, Dangerous, and Italio Rivers, 17, 24, and 27 miles east of Ocean Cape, belong to the Drum House branch of that sib. The Akwe-TJstay River, some miles from Ocean Cape, as well as the Dry Bay area, belong to the Tl'irkna^Adi and the allied ThikwaxAdi. In going southeastward towards Dry Bay, the coastal plain between the mountains and the sea narrows pro- gressively from 17 to about 5 miles in width. The mountains are the Brabazon Range, 4,000-6,000 feet high, and lie in front of the great "through glacier" between Russell Fiord and the Alsek River, behind which, in turn, rises the main ridge of the Saint Elias Range. From this inland sea of ice, as well as from the flanks of the Brabazon Range itself, numerous glacial tongues protrude, the most conspicuous of which is the Yakutat Glacier, some 3 miles wide and about 34% miles east of Yakutat Bay. Still farther east, the Chamberlain and Rodman Glaciers feed the Akwe and Ustay Rivers. According to the Coast Pilot 9 (1955, p. 85): "A canoe can be taken from Dry Bay to Yakutat Bay at high water, but there are several portages and the route is impracticable for a boat of any size. The principal rivers between Dry Bay and Yakutat Bay have shifting bars at their entrances and lagoons or tidal basins inside; they can be used only by small boats or launches at high water and with a smooth sea." The natives often traveled between Yakutat and Dry Bay, paddling or poling their canoes along this chain of sloughs and streams or, in winter, tramped along the frozen courses with snowshoes, dragging their belongings on hand sleds or carrying packs, the women with babies on their backs or in their arms. The clearest description of the route is that given by Commander Moser (1901, pp. 382-388), based upon reports by "Lieutenant Rodman and Mr. Chamberlain [who], with Indian guides and canoes, from July 1 to 6 [1901], made a trip from Yakutat Bay to the Alsek." That same summer, Ensign Miller, with Indian guides, made the portage from the head of Russell Fiord to the headwaters of the Situk River, descended this to its mouth, and returned to Yakutat via the Ankau lagoon 72 SMITHSONIAN CONTRIBUTIONS TO ANTHROPOLOGY VOLUME 7 MAP 9.?? Yakutat Bay to the Alsek River. "The dotted area is the coastal plain; the larger glaciers are shown by the broken lines, with moraines dotted, while the little cliff-glaciers are represented by the black." (Blackwelder, 1907 b, p. 417.) and lake system. Charley White remembered taking Lieutenant Emmons via this last route. Of the trip from Yakutat to Dry Bay, Moser (1901, p. 388) concludes: There are no villages or permanent habitations between Yakutat and Dry Bay, and the journey, even in summer, with a light two-man canoe is not an easy one and is accompanied by some risk. The plain between Yakutat and the Alsek, and bordering the mountain system to the sea, is for the most part wooded with spruce, hemlock, alder, and cottonwood, with a smaller growth of willows and elder, accom- panied by the usual berry bushes, devil club, etc. From Black Sand Island [at the mouth of the Situk] to the mouth of the Italio there is an extensive treeless sand plain reaching several miles back from the coast line. This plain is cut up by small, shallow, spreading streams, having little or no current, with some shallow ponds, and a portion of it has a scant growth of grass and weeds. In very dry weather sand storms occur, and it is said they are at times dangerous." In 1888 Topham (1889 a, p. 425) "met a miner who had made the journey by himself [from Dry Bay to Yakutat by canoe] in 4K days." In 1890 Glave and Dalton with an Indian guide came from Dry Bay to Yakutat in 3 days (see p. 204). In August 1886, Frederick Schwatka went by canoe with a party of Indians from Yakutat Bay via the Ankau system to the mouth of the Situk or Ahrnklin River, as reported in the New York Times, October 26 (p. 2), 1886. The timber, as far as I could determine from the air and from trips to Situk and Lost Rivers, is con- fined to sand ridges parallel to the beach, at least as far as Situk River, while the eastern shore of Yakutat Bay is heavily wooded. Here the trees grow on the moraine of the Yakutat Bay Glacier. This moraine extends westward from Ocean Cape about 3 miles, or 2 miles east from the town of Yakutat. The forest ends abruptly, as if cut off by a knife, midway along the road from Yakutat to the airfield, except for stands along the old beach ridges, and for a few tongues of trees on higher ground bordering Lost and Situk Rivers. Much of the last obviously represents new growth, and the natives remark on how the trees are encroaching upon their former berrying grounds. Some trees have certainly sprung up on the treeless stretch since it was traversed by Lieutenant Rodman in 1901, perhaps spreading down from the foothills at the headwaters of the streams. This open plain formed the major portion of Teqwedi sib territory, whereas Kwaclkqwan lands farther west were within or close to the forest. The following sections describe these sib areas in more detail. IN THREE PARTS HOMELAND OF THE YAKUTAT TLINGIT 73 Mont, B - y - ^ f ^ . . ? . ' : . - i - V y - f * \ ^ . # . ' i . ^ 8 U B SKETCH FROM MONTI BAY TO BLACK SAND ISLAND. MAP 10.?Monti Bay to Black Sand Island. (Subsketch from Moser, 1901, p. XLIII.) The Ankau Lagoon System "The Ankau," Yakwdatyik (Harrington, yaakwtaat- yik) lies within Phipps Peninsula southwest of Yakutat, between Monti Bay and the ocean. This is a maze of shallow tidal lagoons, separated from the Pacific by a narrow barrier beach and glacial moranine, and is studded with small islands and rocks. Its mouth is Ankau Creek; its upper or southeastern end is "Salt Lake" or "Russian Lake," into which flows Tawah (t'awal) Creek, draining "Rocky," "Aka," and "Sum- mit Lakes" to the southeast. The last lake, just east of the Coast Guard Loran Station, also drains in the op- posite direction, i.e., southeastward, into Lost River, by a stream called "Tawah Creek" on the U.S. C. & G.C., chart #8402, "Ancau Creek" on the U.S.G.S. topographic map, and "An-kau River" by Moser (1901, pi. XLIII, pp. 383-384). This whole route was formerly navigable at high tide, but I doubt that it would now be possible to take a canoe through, since the upper reaches of the streams and Summit Lake seem to be silted up or blocked by vegetation. Where the roads cross the streams the latter run in culverts. Orphir ("Over") Creek, which rises on the swampy ground just east of Yakutat, flows into Summit Lake. During World War II a military road was built that ran south from near the airfield to the beach, followed 265-517?72?vol. VII, pt. 1 7 northwestward along the shore, turned north at Ocean Cape, and finally completed the circuit by returning eastward to Yakutat by a bridge across Ankau Creek. This bridge is now fallen, and the western part of the road along the ocean has been made impassable by storm waves which have washed parts of it away or thrown huge piles of driftwood on it. Most of the maze of roads around the airfield have also been abandoned, but the section from the main road to the Loran Station is kept in repair. In 1952 we were able to drive north- westward along the shore to Ocean Cape, and in the other direction to the fish camp at the mouth of Lost River. A few natives at Yakutat own cars and trucks. The Ankau area is important because it was on the innermost lagoon that the post of "New Russia" was established in 1796. One reason for its destruction by the natives in 1805 was that the Russians denied the Indians access to their traditional fishing grounds in this region. Unfortunately, military regulations during World War II also kept them out. From 1902 until 1925, when Federal law closed the Ankau to commer- cial fishing, this area supplied the saltery and later the cannery, but even by 1913 the runs of reds and cohoes had been seriously depleted (Rich and Bell, 1935, p. 447). However, enough salmon still come to the Ankau to make this a place where the natives go in the fall to put up fish for their own needs. The lagoons and lakes are visited annually by thousands of 74 SMITHSONIAN CONTRIBUTIONS TO ANTHROPOLOGY VOLUME 7 migratory waterfowl, and many breed here. If one enters the lagoons through Ankau Creek, one can continue westward to the shallow tidal ponds behind Ocean Cape, or turn southward to "Eussian Lake." The first course is taken by women who want to gather seaweed on the boulder-strewn shores of the cape, or who are looking for cockles in the lagoon. North of Ocean Cape is the wreck of the Kayak, a ship that went ashore here in the 1920's. The lagoon inside is marked by a prominent boulder, and is called, 'Lake Where the Rock Sticks Up/ 'AnXx tB nacuwuwE. The lagoon south of this, and east of the cape is appro- priately called "Inside Your Little Ear," (qa-gukwk"r-yik 'inside of someone's little ear'). The largest lagoon is "Russian Lake," Gus-&Ayi- qwan 'ayi, literally 'clouds outside-of people lake-of.' It is also known as "Ankau Lake," and as 'Salt Lake' (in Tlingit, 'el' 'ayi). It is entered from the north when coming from Ankau Creek by a narrow tidal channel just east of a small island. Rapids ('iy) form here except at high water, which make passage difficult or impossible at other stages of the tide. Just north or outside of these rapids lives a lone White man, Bill Hall, at the site of an abandoned saltery. His place is called 'This Side of the Rapids' ('iyuqtagi; perhaps 'iyux tayi, 'rapids-outside ground-of). The rapids in the smaller channel on the far (west) side of the little island are called wAnkA 'iy, 'Along-side Rapids.' Schwatka tells about running the rapids on a rising tide when entering "Russian Lake" from Ankau Creek. "These cascades fall about 20 feet in [a] 40 to 50 feet run," down which the Indians shot their medium-sized hunting canoe at full speed, paddling hard to give the helmsman steerage way. From here their route wound left to the mouth of T'awai Creek, through shallow channels. The Russians had their fortified agricultural colony, Novo Rossiysk ("New Russia"), on the ocean side of Salt Lake, reportedly at a narrow place on the isthmus between the ocean beach and the lagoon. This does not seem like a suitable place for such an establishment, but the ocean waves may well have eaten away some of the land, since the bank above the beach is undercut. Unfortunately, the survey upon which Tebenkov's chart is based is not sufficiently accurate to show the exact location of the fort, although this is placed in the gen- eral region indicated by informants. According to Minnie Johnson, who accompanied us to the place, the Russian fort was on the southeast side of a small stream that ran beside the cabin and smokehouse belonging to William Milton (1888-1950). The latter is said to have found charcoal when digging the foundations of his cabin. Although we explored around the cabin and in the vicinity we could find no evidence of the fort, even though a depression 25 feet square, southeast of the cabin, suggested a house pit. My informant was sure of the site because the Indians used to land here when coming from Ankau Creek, and would store their gear in a log cabin which her father told her was where the fort had been. "My grandpa used to pack me in the log cabin the Indians had where the Russians used to be. They used it to store things in when they were going to walk along the ocean beach." (MJ) She did not believe that the fort had been on the hill northwest of this spot, although that location seemed better and had been designated as the site by another informant. It was generally agreed that the Russian fort was "supposed to be by William Milton's smokehouse" (map 26, p. 168). The site was called 'Russians' Town,' Gus-kAyi-qwan-'ani (Harrington, ]ktrtskii-khwaan 'aan- nii, or 'Anntiuccii nuuwwuu 'Russians' Fort'). Dall and Baker (1883, p. 207) report that "the settlement con- tained seven buildings defended by a stockade, and five others outside. Even the site has not been seen by white men for half a century." Just northwest of Milton's smokehouse, the cove in the lagoon is called 'Cows' Bay,' Xas geyi (Harrington, xaas keeyyii), because the Russians kept cattle there. One woman said she had found a Russian glass pitcher and liquor bottle in her garden on the point west of the reputed site of the fort. An island northeast of the fort (not shown on the chart) was said to have been garrisoned by the Russians, who kept guards on each side to watch the mouth of T'awai Creek where they had built a "gate" of boulders to keep the Indians from going through with their canoes. The Tlingit name for the island meant "island on which spears are ready to use," but I was not able to record this successfully. Tawah or T'awai Creek (tawal) runs from Rocky Lake into the head of Russian Lake. Somewhere near its mouth, an Indian found a carved boulder when gathering moss to cover a trap. The petroglyph origi- nally represented a bear, including the body and paws. The piece with the head alone was taken to Yakutat where I saw and photographed it, but it later disap- peared (de Laguna et al, 1964, pi. 3, b). It is generally supposed to commemorate the destruction of the Rus- sian post by the Tlaxayik-Teqwedi. According to Moser (1901, p. 383), "Ta-wah" Creek is less than half a mile long, and drains a small pond, about 300 yards long, with a rocky bottom. "The rocks and boulders have been removed from the bed and piled along the side [of the stream], forming a shallow channel up which canoes are tracked at low water, but may be poled at high water." A loaded canoe could be poled or pulled across the pond. The latter is evidently "Rocky Lake," KAtsitExi-'a (possibly kA-sit-tExi-'a?), translated as "rocks on the lake," or "full of rocks." A few hundred yards up the shallow winding stream IN THREE PARTS HOMELAND OF THE YAKUTAT TLINGIT 75 one comes to Aka Lake, about a mile long. The Russian "gate" was supposed to have been on T'awal Creek between Rocky and Aka Lakes. The Russians made the Indians pay a sea otter skin to go past. When the gate was closed, canoes had to be portaged over a trail, informants reported. Perhaps the "gate" was a zapor, or fish weir, such as the Russians made and which were later maintained both by commercial fishermen and natives in Alaska until banned by law. Moser's party found the remains of several slat barricades along this stream (Moser, 1901, p. 244, pi. 20). The total length of T'awal Creek from Russian Lake to Aka Lake is about K mile. Schwatka (New York Times, October 26, 1886, p. 2) describes T'awal Creek as a "shallow salt-water creek," so narrow that the sides of the canoe were scraped by boulders, as well as the bottom. Just above a "little space of deep water" [Rocky Lake?], his party came to a stone fish dam, "large and well constructed," which evidently blocked the stream so that the rising tide could not ascend farther. There was a break in the center of the dam, through which water poured and through which the Indians managed to take the canoe. Schwatka observed that: "This dam deserved more than passing notice. The rocks of which it was built seemed as old in place as any of those lining the shores themselves, and not one of them had apparently been displaced since its making. I naturally asked if it had been used at all within recent times; and Yeet [i.e., Yeet-shwoo- doo-kook] (which name I will give my guide here- after) replied that the Yakutats nor any other clan of Thlinkets had ever used it, and that it was built by the Aleuts many years ago." Schwatka satisfied himself that the "Aleuts" were not those in Russian employ, but were "the Aleuts who once occupied the land now held by the Yakutat Thlinkets." A short distance above the dam, Schwatka found the water fresh. "Here a pretty little rivulet came through gravel and small stones, and I noticed that these had been scraped out of its bed to the two sides, forming a sort of diminutive levee on either bank, and my first idea was that it had thus been cleared to allow the salmon to ascend, for the stream was actually so small that obstructions would have to be taken out to allow such large fish as salmon to swim up it. I thought this too might be Aleut, but was told that it was Thlinket or Yakutat. . . . [The party dragged the canoe up this stream, which was] small and shallow, [although] very swift. . . . Another portage through a creek full of boulders and where we had to wade and we entered our first fresh-water lake." [This was evidently Aka Lake.] Aka Lake is northwest of the Loran Station on the ocean beach. The name, 'AkA, 'on the lake,' refers to a former village on the ocean side near the head of the lake. It was primarily a KwacKqwan place, but "not their capital." and was wiped out by smallpox, which informants believed had come before the Russians (pp.277-279). Emmons in 1883 was told that there had been six Kwaclsqwan houses at "Ah-ka," of which nothing remained at the time of his visit, but he locates the village of that name at the mouth of Ankau Creek (see p. 61). The site on the lake was later used as a fish camp, for one informant, born in 1896, remembers a row of smokehouses there when she was a small child. Another, born in 1914, also said there were smokehouses when he was a little boy. When we stopped there in June, 1952, there was nothing to see but a clearing choked with bushes and nettles. Aka Lake is connected with Summit Lake by a little brook, 6 feet wide and %-}? mile long, according to Moser (1901, p. 383), which carried just enough water to permit a loaded canoe to be hauled through. The stream is called NstsilhuwA, and was said to have been a "canal dug by slaves" according to informants. This suggests the boulders cleared from the lower part of T'awal Creek. There was a village on Aka Lake, at the mouth of this canal, which was called NEtsilhuwA- wlt-'an. It was occupied by Eyak-speaking natives who were wiped out by the Teqwedi. Schwatka (1886) observed both of these villages on Aka Lake in August, 1886. "On this lake were two Summer fishing villages, one of which [Aka] must be occupied a great deal in that season?though we saw no one there?from the large number of graves that were on one side of it, as in wholly temporary camps they transport the dead that have succumbed there to their more permanent villages. All these fishing villages are, as far as I could see, of as permanent construction as any other houses they build, and seemed more like deserted towns than temporary ones. [The "second place," NEtsilhuwA-WAt^ 'an, was within 200 or 300 yards of the ocean beach.] After leaving this place, for nearly an hour the course is on a narrow stream and through timber and heavy underbrush, where we waded and pushed and pulled the canoe along. . . . Then we emerged into a shallow lake full of grass and pond lilies full of stripes cut through them in the direction of the lake, showing where the canoes of fishing parties had preceded us and cut their way through. [This was evidently Summit Lake, for] By 4 o'clock we were leaving this lake so full of fish, and passing another Indian house entered quite a large creek, but I was surprised to find its waters running the other way. The lake had been the dividing water between two emerging streams." 76 SMITHSONIAN CONTRIBUTIONS TO ANTHROPOLOGY VOLUME 7 Summit Lake, which drains both towards Ankau and Lost River, is described as varying in width from 100 yards to % mile, and is about 1% mile in length. Its depths range from 1-24 inches (Moser, 1901, p. 383), hence it was called 'Very Shallow Lake,' KuxwAtsun'a. There was formerly a village on the sandy ridge between the ocean and the eastern outlet, called 'Hill Top Town,' Gutc-CAki-'an, variously reported as inhabited by Eyak, by Kwaclkqwan, or by an "all mixed" population, who died in the smallpox epidemic before (?) the Russians came. Another name for the lake is simply Gutc-CAkf-'an-'a. Ophir Creek, "Over Creek," a fine clear stream which rises close behind the town of Yakutat and "forms the main spawning ground for this system" (Moser, 1901, p. 383), flows into Summit Lake. It is called Kuxtcinik. The road from the Yakutatr-Airfield highway to the Loran Station parallels this stream. No lakes beyond this point were mentioned by our informants, but Moser reports that a mile beyond Summit Lake there is a "so-called third lake," consist- ing of a series of small pools and swamps, about l}f-2 miles long, from 20 yards to % mile wide, and full of marshy islands and weeds. I do not believe that this was recognized as a lake by my informants. Schwatka found that the stream running eastward from Summit Lake was "large," but "disagreeably full of sand bars." At first his party had to wade, but soon came to a "well-marked river, down which we sped aided by current and paddle. Just as we were leaving the sedgy swamps at the head of the stream we came to a high pole, there being a weather vane on its top, which Yeet told me marked the spot where a young Indian had perished some years ago in a terrible storm of cold and snow." The stream draining eastward from Summit Lake is called simply 'Channel' or 'Slough' ('e?). Harrington refers to this as 'a salt slough, tributary to Ova Creek,' called 'eex. According to the natives, it should be called Lost River, like the lower part of the stream which it joins and which empties into the sea about 9 miles east of Ocean Cape. The upper part of this stream, actually its lesser, northern branch, is known locally as "Little Lost River." The western branch of Lost River from Moser's "third lake" to the confluence is about 3 miles long, from 15-40 feet wide, and 4-6 feet deep. Just south of the airfield, on the ocean side of the stream, in the middle of its course and at about the highest point affected by the tides, was the former village called NEssudat. The name is Eyak and Dr. Krauss suggests that this is derived from lis- . . . 'spruce, tree,' -da'd 'place in front of.' Before the Russians came this was an Eyak settlement, consisting of smokehouses, not named houses. After the arrival of the Russians it became the "capital" of the Kwackqwan, where the chief, Yaxodaqet, lived in Raven's Bones House (also known as Big House). Other houses of this sib were Fort House, Moon House, and lesser residences (p. 316). Mountain (Saint Elias) House of the same sib was also mentioned (MH). From here the people moved to Khantaak Island. Emmons (in 1883 ?) was told of the site of "Nis-too- dart (facing the mountains)" which had formerly contained three Kwackqwan houses and one belonging to the "Ka-kuse-hit-tan," apparently represented by a single family from Prince of Wales Island. (These were the Qa-^us-hfttan of Henya, or the Qaqloshlt tan, "Human-Foot-House People" of Swanton (1908, p. 398).) The site was abandoned at the time of Emmons' visit. Schwatka in 1886 mentions passing "a deserted Indian village of four or five well constructed houses called Yess-too-doot." In 1888, however, it was oc- cupied by at least one family, perhaps only as a summer fishcamp, for Minnie Johnson remembers spending the night here with relatives when her family was taking her father's body from Situk back to Khantaak Island for burial. In 1901, there were "three houses and some drying racks . . . on the southern bank . . . where the natives cure fish during the season" (Moser, 1901, p. 384). Our archeological investigations here are briefly described (de Laguna et al, 1964, pp. 24-26). This site marks the eastern boundary of Kwac?qwan territory, except for rights to Little Lost River. Lost River to Italio River The original inhabitants of Lost and Situk Rivers at the western edge of the coastal plain, were the -Luxedi or Tlaxayik-Teqwedi; the present owners are the Bear House branch of the Teqwedi who came origi- nally from southeastern Alaska, via the Dry Bay area. Present-day claims are confused by attempts to will the land to sons and daughters, who are, of course, Ravens and not members of the original owning sib (Goldschmidt and Haas, 1946, p. 78). My informants spoke about the ill-feeling thus created between the nephews and the children of the owners, aggravated by the hope that oil would be found in the region. The most famous chief of the Teqwedi was ^atgawet. Despite the popular association of his name with Knight Island, my most careful native historian said that he lived alone in a single house in a clearing on the ocean side of the stream from Summit Lake, i.e. the west branch of Lost River. This place, east of NEssudat, was called 'Strawberry Leaf in Eyak, CukwAltai, because of the three-lobed shape of the clearing (HKB).23 23 Dr. Krauss informs me that 'strawberry leaf in Eyak is cuq'Alt'ahl. IN THREE PARTS HOMELAND OF THE YAKUTAT TLINGIT 77 Farther east, on a sandy rise on the ocean side of the stream just above its junction with Little Lost River, was the "capital" of the Bear House Teqwedi. This was originally an Eyak village Diyaguna'Et, called di'ya'- guna' Et( by an Eyak speaker, which means "salt water (di'ya') comes in here," or refers to a bend in the tidal stream.24 It is pronounced diyaguna'Et by the Tlingit. There was a battle here between the Tiaxayik-Teqwedi and the "true" Teqwedi, in which the latter suffered serious losses, but later gained control. When a smallpox epidemic killed off everyone in all the villages from the mouth of the Ankau to Lost River, the only survivors were a few people at Diyaguna'Et. Informants are not clear as to whether this was the epidemic of 1839 or an earlier one, and I cannot reconstruct the sequence of events. Mrs. Emma Joseph, at one time the oldest living native in Yakutat and reported to have been born in 1867, gave the following confused statement to Gold- schmidt and Haas (1946, p. 77 a). Apparently she was thinking about both the old village and a later camp at or near the site, as I have tried to indicate by my own explanatory additions in brackets. "Lost River was owned by the Teoquedi people who [once] had a large village which was used the year around. In my time there were four [temporary?] houses there. They trap salmon and got all kinds of berries. They [the inhabitants of the old village] move away when smallpox killed the people. This was before I was born. They moved to a little place called Nastudat, which was also on Lost River. By the time I [was old enough to] remember they had moved to Situk and would go out there for a month or so at a time." During the Teqwedi occupation there were several houses inside a fort: Shark House, Bear House, Bear Paw House, Golden Eagle House, Coward House, and Valley House were all mentioned but it must be re- membered that one house might have several names. Sidewise House of the Tl'uknaXAdi was also here, but its site is now believed to be in the muskeg, while the stream has washed away some of the high ground where the others stood. Emmons (MS.) reports that "De-ah- gun-ah-ate (where the salt water comes up and the people moan for fresh water)" was the earliest Teqwedi village in the Yakutat area, and had eight houses inside a stockade. The doorway to the chief's was cut through a totem pole on which the Bear crest was carved. My informants mentioned this, as well as the carved house posts that were later taken to the village on Khantaak Island. The last known occupants of the village, who later moved to Situk River and Khantaak Island, were the parents and grandparents of persons born in 1880- 84. Our explorations at the site indicated a long period of occupation (de Laguna et al, 1964, pp. 25-26, pi. 1, b). There is some suggestion that the Teqwedi moved away because a shaman had been killed in a quarrel up the Situk River (p. 320). In August, 1886, Schwatka evidently passed Diya- guna 'Et which he described as "another deserted village of such construction that we could have found perfect shelter during the night both from mosquitoes and the rain." His Indian guide had, however, "most emphatic superstitious scruples against sleeping in deserted houses of his race unless a medicine man was with him." This would be understandable if the body of the murdered shaman had been entombed nearby. Little Lost River, i.e., the upper part of "Lost River" on the maps, above the junction of the main branch from Summit Lake, has been called Dagi'a, Qelgi'a (said to be an Eyak name derived from qel, 'woman,' and 'a, 'river'),25 and Tsexskw. The last term was given by a woman who had called the western branch Sexs (not 'e&), and so may be a diminutive form of the latter (perhaps sexskw?), although the word is said not to be Tlingit. Moser (1901, p. 384) calls it "Tha-ghe-an" (clearly the name of a settlement), and reports that it drains a lake 6 miles to the north. It enters Lost River about 1 mile above the mouth. On the east bank of Little Lost River, just above the confluence, is an abandoned landing at the end of a spur from the cannery railroad. Here are a smokehouse and Bear Paw House, built in 1918, but now long un- occupied. On the west bank of Little Lost River, about H mile above the landing, is the site of 'Shallow Water Town,' Wutl'iya-'an (ANH and SH). This was reported to have been the oldest village of the L'uxedi, but my informant may have confused it with Diyaguna'Et, since investiga- tions here failed to reveal any evidence of antiquity (de Laguna et al., 1964, p. 26). The ranking chief of Bear Paw House at Diyaguna'Et, a man named DaqusEtc, is said to have planted native tobacco here, and later to have given the site to his Kwac&qwan brother-in-law, so it became a village of that sib. "The White people call it Little Lost River where it splits. The natives from NESsudat go way up above. I don't know what language the name is [tsexsk"]. It's not Tlingit. Sometimes my grand- father's people trap fox and wolf and so on in the winter time." At the site, "CAtkiguxw-'ic and all his big family stay there. And after they get through with that [moved away], they got a cabin way up Situk." u According to Dr. Krauss, di-ya'guk'e'd means in Eyak 'place of salt water.' 26 According to Dr. Krausa, qe'lgAyuya'a"- means 'women's river' in Eyak. 78 SMITHSONIAN CONTRIBUTIONS TO ANTHROPOLOGY VOLUME 7 At the mouth of Lost River is a modern fishcamp, located on the west bank and reached by road from Yakutat. Its name, Gucin<5, "Point of Timber," (from guc, 'thumb, fin'), is also given to "Diyaguna'Et, but more particularly to the point of timber on the west bank of Lost River about half a mile from the mouth. This is where two Teqwedi shamans were entombed in a grave house, and, after the mission was established, were buried in the ground. No trace of the sepulcher or the grave could be found. The shamans were TEk-'ic, 'Little Stone's Father,' and Qadjixdaqina, the man from Diyaguna'Et who had been killed on the upper Situk. According to Swanton (1908; p. 405), the name, Qadj&xdaqe'na, means "Eagle going around a dead thing and making a noise," but I would translate it as '[Eagle] flying around a murdered man.' There was formerly a slough connecting the mouths of Lost and Situk Rivers, called WAnki hln, 'Alongside [the beach] Stream,' but this has silted up during the past 50 years, and the mouths of both rivers have recently shifted to the west. The man who pointed this out to me was afraid that the salmon would avoid them. There are said to be sand dunes east of Lost River (I saw only muskeg) called Xu^qagEka. A small island between Lost and Situk Rivers (probably that forming the connecting slough) was "Head Island," Qacayi &at', 'human-head island.' The Coast and Geo- detic Survey Chart (#8402; 1949) shows the tidal lagoon into which both Lost and Situk Rivers formerly emptied. This also continued eastward, behind Black Sand Island, to the large lagoon which received the waters of Seal Creek and Arhnklin River. The mouth of the Situk River is now one of the main places for commercial fishing, and many Yakutat natives have summer cabins or tents along the sand- bar west of the mouth. The Yakutat and Southern Railroad, operated by the cannery, runs the 9% miles from Yakutat to a landing on Johnson Slough, an eastern tributary of the Situk which enters the latter just above the mouth. "About 2 miles from the sea the Ku-na-yosh, about half the size of the Seetuck, joins the latter from the eastward" (Moser, 1901, p. 385). Cannery tenders run up to the landing at high tide to unload fish and take on supplies. Goldschmidt and Haas (1946, fig. 6) published a photograph of the natives rowing their skiffs from the camp up to the landing and report as follows about the whole drainage area: "The lower portion of the river was important for fishing and berrying. The region yielded salmon and eulachon, swamp berries, high-bush cran- berries, lagoon berries, strawberries, blueberries, salmon berries and dewberries. "The upper reaches of this stream are hunting and trapping territory?some of the best in the whole Yakutat area. It yields black bear, mink, land otter, mountain goats, and weasel. Old salmon are caught, as well as fish for current use." [Ibid., p. 80.] "The Situk River is by far the largest producer of red, coho, and pink salmon in the Yakutat district," according to surveys up to 1927 (Rich and Bell, 1935, p. 411). My informants remember when two trains of several cars each were needed to haul the daily catch to the cannery; in 1952 only one car might be filled in a day. The name Situk (pronounced sitAk; Harrington, siithak) is believed to be Eyak, but the meaning is unknown. According to Emmons (MS.), the river is said to have been named by or for an Athabaskan man from the interior. Krauss informs me that the older pronunciation was tsAtAg, but the name was probably not Eyak. On the lower Situk, about a mile above the railway trestle, the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service maintains a fish weir and station for the purpose of counting the salmon that come up the river to spawn, in order to determine how many days should be open to com- mercial fishing. On the eastern bank, between the weir and trestle, are a number of collapsed frame- houses, house pits, and graves, marking the former village of SitAk. This was established by Teqwedi men who had moved from Diyaguna'Et on Lost River. The first house to be built was Coward House; Bear's Nest House of the son-in-law of a Coward House man was built later. Farther upstream, above the weir, was the Tl'uknaxAdi Boulder House, and at least one unnamed house, for in 1866 Emmons (MS.) reported 40-odd persons living in four houses. Some of the framehouses below the weir were certainly built later. After the settlement ceased to be a place of permanent residence it seems to have been used as a fishcamp. A number of my informants were born here, or lived here for shorter or longer periods. Graves among the ruined houses belonged to the last house chief, Situk Jim (died 1912), his younger brother, Situk Harry (died 1945), as well as to the Tl'uknaxAdi chief, Dry Bay Chief George (died 1916), and the ^at'kA'ayi man, Lityua Bay George (1845-1926), and to various others. According to one informant who had lived here as a child (1884-90), "There's been nothing but glaciers here. No bushes or anything in Situk when I was small?just flat gravel spit. No bushes, nothing." (MJ) The open grassy place below the weir and west of the railway trestle on Situk River, extending half a mile to Johnson Slough and beyond, is called De'angeya (like the reef near Yakutat Roads). The landing on Johnson Slough is called 'Pitching the Fish Place' (xaat- 'aatukutje), according to Harrington. U. S . COMMISSION OF FISH AND FISHERIES STEAMER ALBATROSS COMMANDER JEFF'N F M O S S R JJ .SNAVY, COMMANDING. SKETCH OF THE ALSEK EIVER DELTA ADJACENT STREAMS TO YAKUTAT JULY 1901. AUTHORITIES: (Base map - - U S C &. G & chart Noa50O). Alsek Riv?r and Adjacent Streams, Lieut Hu^ h Rodman., U. S. N See-tuck River Entivn Cyrus ft. Miller, U. S.N * ,' ? > ? ? . ? ?')YAKUTAT BAY MAP 11.?Yakutat to the Alsek River Delta. (Moser, 1901, pi. XLIII.) IN THREE PARTS HOMELAND OF THE YAKUTAT TLINGIT 79 As has been explained, the Situk until relatively re- cently drained an ice-dammed lake at the head of Russell Fiord. Its muddy waters gave the name, i'uxedi, to the original inhabitants of Situk and Lost Rivers. Now, the Situk rises in two connecting lakes, close to the western shore of Mud Bay, both of which lie against the mountainous slopes south of Mount Tebenkof and are dammed by glacial moraine. The first, a narrow lake, is only a mile over the hills from Cape Stoss, and is 190 feet above sea level. Four miles down- stream, meandering to the west, is the larger circular lake, about 2 miles in diameter and 110 feet above sea level (Moser, 1901, p. 384, pi. XLIII). This has been named "Lake Miller," after Ensign Miller who came through it going down the Situk in 1901. The natives (and the most recent chart) call it "Situk Lake." The dead spruce and hemlock on the western and eastern shores were believed by Moser to have been killed by a subsidence during the earthquake of 1899. From the southern edge of the lake, the Situk winds to the sea, about 13 miles away by direct line, and during its course receives several tributaries, a good proportion of which have their origin in lakes or swamps. Near some of these lakes the ground is so full of salt that it does not freeze in winter. One man thought this was due to sea water which once came way up the Situk River, but did not make clear whether this was from the mouth of the river, or down from the head with the flood which ac- companied the breaking of the ice dam in Russell Fiord, or even whether it was due to the subsidence noted at Miller Lake. About one third of its length below Situk (Miller) Lake, the main course of the Situk is joined by the "On-klat" from the west, evidently draining Redfield Lake. The name of this stream is evidently derived from the Eyak word, 'an-tl'ahd, meaning 'head of river,' according to Krauss. Moser (1901, pp. 384-385) reports two more tributaries from the west and two from the east along the middle third of the Situk. Most of this area seems to be low and swampy, and sparsely timbered. Unfortunately, it seems to be poorly mapped. Harrington was told of three lakes on the Situk River, but I cannot identify them with certainty. "First Lake" (nfktl'axxAk 'aa) is perhaps Lake Redfield, although my informants denied that this had a native name and applied the name NaxtlAXAk 'akA to a lake (or place on a lake) that drained into Humpback Salmon Creek. Next (presumably going upstream) is a big lake right at the foot of the hill, or 'lake at the head of Situk' (sAtthAk ctJk 'aayyii), probably Situk Lake. Last is a long narrow lake surrounded by mountains, with a waterfall on its outlet stream ('Accuku 'aakkuu). The main branch of the Situk had an Eyak name, variously rendered by informants as GAditl-kexl (MJ), Gudiyixl-tl'elx (JE), Gudal'-texl (HKB), and GudAl- kexl (CW). These variations are probably due as much to my faults in recording as to mispronunciations by Tlingit-speakers of a foreign word. It was not trans- lated, but Krauss identifies it as Eyak for 'nest' (iudAltl'ihxl). On this stream, over one-half of the way to "Situk Lake," perhaps near or above the confluence of the "On-klat/' was the site of the fort built by the Tiaxayik- Teqwedi after they had destroyed the Russian post on the Ankau. It consisted of three or four houses, con- nected by tunnels, and surrounded by a wall, in which was the door from the Russian fort. This was called 'Eagle Fort,' Teak nu in Tlingit, or Gutcgalaq glaca'l in Eyak (Krauss, g/gu-djgAUg-tla-ca'l). Here, the oc- cupants repulsed an attack by the Tl'uknaxAdi from Dry Bay, only to be destroyed by the latter at Wuga- niyE in Disenchantment Bay. After this, the former L'uxedi territory on Lost and Situk Rivers was pre- empted by the Bear House Teqwedi. A hunting camp on the upper Situk was called GiyAq (Krauss, giyAg), which my informant said was an Eyak word suggesting an open space (see p. 64). Many of my informants had or have camps 'way up the Situk' (sitAkyik). The eastern branch of the Situk, which formerly drained Russell Fiord Lake, was called 'As ?axi?aq; poorly recorded, but probably meaning something 'between the trees.' Johnson Slough, which enters the Situk from the east, is GAniyac (guniac) hin. About 1% miles above the landing at the end of the railway, on the western side of the stream, was once a single Tl'uknaxAdi house, Boulder House, on top of a sand bluff. This was built by the greatgranduncle of Minnie Johnson, perhaps early in the 19th century; at any event so long ago that the place, "Gunne-ash," was known to Emmons (MS.) only by name. The settlement was called GAniyac or GAniyacyik, 'Inside Johnson Slough.' Black Sand Island, Xenu, formerly extended between the mouths of the Situk and the Ahrnklin Rivers, but has been largely washed away since the chart (# 8402; 1949; cf. revision of 1963) was made. Situk Harry, a Teqwedi house owner, started to build Valley House on it; but the island was largely washed away after his death in 1945. Now it is described as a sandbar with a few fishermen's cabins on it, and all the rivers from Situk to Ahrnklin have a common mouth, since the bar now extends across the old mouth of the Ahrnklin (see U.S.G.S. topographic map, 1951; chart #8402, revised 1963). In 1901, there were extensive lagoons at the mouths of these rivers, with strong tidal currents sweeping in and out at each end of Black Sand Island. These lagoons and the connecting slough "were full of jumping salmon": king, sockeye, and coho (Moser, 1901, p. 385). 80 SMITHSONIAN CONTRIBUTIONS TO ANTHROPOLOGY VOLUME 7 In passing east of Black Sand Island we enter the territory of the Drum House branch of the Teqwedi. They had been living in the Dry Bay area before they purchased the lands to the west. The first stream east of the Situk, and west of Seal Creek, has no name on the maps but is known to the natives as Qacayi 'e?, 'Human Head Slough.' Seal Creek is literally that: Tsa 'iiE (or 'iyi). The Ahrnklin River was the heart of the Drum House territory. The name is 'Antlen, shortened from 'At-'ani-tlen, 'big town (or country) of the animals,' a name applied to a village on the river about 2 miles above the mouth and apparently between the two main branches of the river. Here were four big houses, including the original Drum House, Thunderbird House, and Golden Eagle House, all belonging to the Teqwedi. A tale recorded by Swanton (1909, pp. 365- 368) recounts the story of Heavy-Wings who built Thunderbird House. The river is now said to be under- cutting the site. On the Ahrnklin there was also a settlement, or house, called 'Wolf Cave,' Gutc tAtukw, belonging to the Teqwedi. According to Emmons (MS.), the inhabitants of "An Klain" were all but wiped out by smallpox, and the town deserted. He believed that the original Drum House line had become extinct, although my informants' stories would indicate that it barely escaped that fate. The central branch of the Ahrnklin River, rising just below Slate Peak, is 'Antl6n hin; a northwestern tributary is GAnEtsitsk or Gunefeitsk (Krauss, guletsitsk, 'narrow body of water' in Eyak); and the main western arm is Tcal'-Kitu hm, 'River Through the Small (?) Willows.' The main eastern branch is Staxe'ya; this; as well as the name for the northwestern tributary, is in the tongue of the original inhabitants and cannot be translated. The latter had various names, but were also known as the StaxAdi, after the eastern tributary of the Ahrnklin, which was the last bit of territory they owned in the whole Yakutat area. After selling this, they emigrated (to southeastern Alaska?). There was rich hunting on the mountain slopes at the head of the Ahrnklin. The father of one elderly informant had a hunting camp at what we believe to be the head of the east branch, Stax6ya CAk. Slate Peak, near the headwaters of the central and western branches, which can be seen from the head of Russell Fiord, is called Lagut and was a good place on which to hunt mountain goats. Fish, mink, land otter, and wolves were obtained in the area by the natives. The river itself was closed to commercial fishing by the Govern- ment, and the Indians who owned traplines in the vicinity have tried to prevent the Whites from en- croaching (Goldschmidt and Haas, 1946, p. 81). An island in the river was known as "Rice Island," Kux i&ti, literally, 'island of Kamchatka lilies,' evidently because the natives used to gather "wild rice" here from the roots of these plants. The Ahrnklin country is full of historic associations for the Drum House Teqwedi. Not only was it purchased because the people from Dry Bay found it so beautiful, but later, it was a hunter from 'Antlen village who encountered a wounded Golden Eagle in the mountains, learned its song (1954, 1-1-F; p. 253), and from it obtained from the Drum House people the right to use the Golden Eagle as a crest. On the river, half a century ago, the older brother of one of my informants was drowned, but because the Wolf was a Teqwedi crest, the wolves guarded his body. This story, as well as the Teqwedi claims to the river, are symbolized in a magnificent beaded blanket (pi. 151). Lastly, a song composed by Olaf Abraham (1954, 1-2-A; p. 1291) in- terprets the mountains at the head of the Ahrnklin River as symbolic of all the ancestors of the lineage. According to informants, a slough or channel, not shown on my map or chart, has recently been formed connecting the mouths of the Ahrnklin and Dangerous Rivers. This will take a skiff on a 10-foot tide. In 1901, Lt. Rodman's party had to ascend to the head of the eastern branch of the Ahrnklin and make a portage "across a small plain to Dangerous River," a matter of 45-60 minutes (Moser, 1901, p. 386). Dangerous River, KutHtciki hin (Harrington, khxilhttchikki hiin; see Boas, 1917, p. 67, k'ulixeLCAn, "dangerous"), drains Harlequin Lake at the foot of Yakutat Glacier. It is dangerous to cross because of the swift water and floating ice, and while purchased by the Teqwedi, had no settlements on it. Moser (1901, p. 386) notes that it is full of quicksands, has a strong current, and is continually changing its bed. "It is considered a very treacherous stream and is feared by the natives." The water is muddy with glacial debris, and can only be navigated with a very small canoe at high tide (Robson, 1910, p. 165). There is a long portage between the tidal basins at the mouths of the Dangerous and Italio Rivers, so that Moser (1901, p. 386) advises travelers going westward to cross Dangerous River where they have reached it from the Ahrnklin portage. "The quickest and easiest way is to cache the canoe at Dangerous River and pack across the sand plain to the Italio, skirting the tree line and fording the [Italio] river; the depth is less than 2 feet." Otherwise, one must descend Dangerous River by canoe, and make a long portage from the eastern end of the tidal basin at its mouth to the mouth of the Italio. Dangerous River carried salmon, and many seals could be shot on the bars in the middle of the river. "They make good eating in the winter when they are fat, or in the spring," it is said. Harrington was told that seals were "always lighting on the bar" (tshaa 'aayeekkhii-tjiiyye). IN THREE PARTS HOMELAND OF THE YAKUTAT TLINGIT 81 According to my informant, the eastern boundary of Teqwedi lands was just east of the Italio River, and just west of the present mouth of the Akwe-Ustay Rivers, that is, due south of Harlequin Lake. Beyond this is the Akwe River-Dry Bay country, belonging to Raven sibs. Emmons (MS.), however, includes the Italio River with the western territory, reporting that in 1886 there was one Tl'uknaxAdi house with 12 occu- pants, all that remained of an old village. According to Goldschmidt and Haas (1946, p. 83): "The dakestina clan own the Italio River." This is simply another name for the CAnkuqedi, and the two men belonging to this sib, who were mentioned by these authors as having trap- ping rights here in 1946, were Frank Italio and Sam George, both sons of the Tl'uknaxAdi chief, Dry Bay Chief George. "Like other areas in the Yakutat terri- tory, the Italio river area was transferred contrary to the native rules of inheritance, with the result that clan ownership has been confused" (Goldschmidt and Haas, 1946, p. 82). A distinction should, however, be made between villages and house sites, traplines, and general hunting territories. Teqwedi tradition recounts that they were living on the Italio River, as well as at Dry Bay, before they purchased the Ahrnklin area. Possibly exclusive title to the Italio was never clearly established by any of the sibs. In 1909, Robson's party photo- graphed some Indian cabins on the river, apparently a summer fishing camp, but give no details (1910, photo, opp. p. 171). The Italio River, called Qetlhwa, is reported to rise either in Harlequin Lake or in another lake about 4 miles to the southeast; more likely, it receives water from both. The western arm, used in traveling by canoe to Dry Bay, is not, however, connected with the Akwe River, as indicated on Moser's map (1901, pi. XLITI). In any case, from the confluence of the eastern tributary about 7 miles above the mouth, the main stream runs southwestward; "when near the coast it is deflected more to the westward and parallel to the ocean beach, from which it is separated by a low sandspit, about one-eighth of a mile wide, for a distance of 3 miles, when its channel leads into the sea" (Moser, 1901, p. 386). The lower part of the stream is like a tidal lagoon, and this description fits most of the rivers in the area. Moser's party further noted that the stream mouths were in general working westward, as sandbars were built up. The Italio River was described as "a fine stream, clean and clear," with sandy bottom, and runs of sockeye, coho, hump- back, dog, and a few king salmon. It can be easily forded, since the depth is only 2 feet. Other resources obtained by the natives included strawberries, land otter, mink, fox, and brown bear. In the mountains at the head of the river were mountain goat. A mountain, described as at the head of the Italio or back of Akwe River, Mount Reaburn, or one of the lesser peaks in front), is called Tacax or Tacaq (Har- rington, thaa ccaax). It was the slave of Mount Saint Elias and Mount Fairweather, and its owners used to send it back and forth to carry messages between them (JE). Another informant specified that it was from this mountain that Raven's partner threw him down a cliff in a box, after Raven had cheated him (MJ). This reference to Raven indicates that we are already close to Dry Bay, where so many localities are asso- ciated with his deeds. THE DRY BAY AREA The Dry Bay area, in native thought, extends from the Akwe-Ustay River system on the west to Cape Fairweather on the southeast, since all this region was occupied by the same groups of intermarrying sibs. Dry Bay is sometimes called 'Alsex, referring to the Alsek River, of which it is the mouth. The region is also called Gunaxo (Harrington, kAnnaa xxuu), con- tracted from gunanaxo, 'among the foreignors [Atha- baskans],' because the original inhabitants, the Raven TlukwaxAdi, spoke Athabaskan. Another term for the bay, possibly a literal translation of the English "Dry Bay," is Wuxugu ge (i.e., wuxukw ge?). It was to Dry 265-517?72?vol. VII. pt. 1 8 Bay that came the Hoonah man, QakexwtE, who had killed his own sleep. Here he encountered the Athabask- an TlukwaxAdi, taught them Tlingit arts, and from them obtained a wife. A ThikwaxAdi man married a Chilkat CAnkuqedi woman, so other members of this Wolf sib came overland to Dry Bay. Later, the Drum House Teqwedi are said to have used this route?-if indeed they were not then a part of the CAnkuqedi?-up over the Chilkat Pass and down the Alsek. Other Tlingit from southeastern Alaska, the Raven Tl'uknaxAdi, the Wolf Kagwantan, and the Bear House Teqwedi, came along the coast, presumably by canoe, possibly on foot from 82 SMITHSONIAN CONTRIBUTIONS TO ANTHROPOLOGY VOLUME 7 Lituya Bay. The original language at Dry Bay was said to have sounded something like Copper River Atna; it was most probably a dialect of Southern Tutchone spoken on the upper Alsek. Later, the Tlingit speech at Dry Bay was like that of southeastern Alaska, not like that at Yakutat where so many sounds are pronounced farther back in the throat. Since many of the Dry Bay people used to ascend the Alsek to hunt and trade in the interior, and so many of the Southern Tutchone used to visit the coast, all the Dry Bay people could speak Athabaskan, and affected Athabaskan songs, dances, and costumes for ceremonies. Landmarks in the Dry Bay area are associated with Raven, with QakexwtE, and with the CAnkuqedi boy who was lost on the Alsek and lived with the Thunder- birds, as well as with historic events. Here we are dealing with a different tribe from that of the Yakutat Bay area, even though during this century the original distinction between the peoples has been lost. Although the CAkuqedi and the Sitka Kagwantan had lineage houses in the Dry Bay area, and the Teqwedi also once lived here, this territory, particularly the Akwe ('akwe) River region, was claimed by the Athabaskan Raven ThikwaxAdi, with whom the Tlingit Raven Tl'uknaxAdi mingled and came to dominate. With them lived lesser Raven groups, including remnants of the ^a?kA'ayi from Lituya Bay. Dry Bay itself is simply the delta of the Alsek River which rises in southern Yukon Territory and cuts its way through the mountains. The delta flats cover an area of some 80-100 square miles (Moser, 1901, p. 387), and are filled with bars and small islands, between which the channels continually change. Eight miles from the ocean, the river is almost blocked by the Alsek Glacier on the east, and above this are still more glaciers on both sides of the river. The river carries down a quantity of glacial silt, so that at times in summer the sea for 10 miles offshore may be dis- colored. In summer, too, when the glaciers melt, the river is subject to sudden, dangerous floods of water that may trap and drown persons walking on the flats, or overturn canoes. In the middle of the bay is a rocky wooded island, "Bear Island," 200 feet high. The westernmost of the three channels crossing the bay is the largest. According to the Coast Pilot (9, 1955, p. 85), it "is about 400 yards wide, has depths of about 6 feet at low water, and has been used to some extent by small craft." But Riddell and Lane who visited Dry Bay in the cannery tender during stormy weather, September 1953, will appreciate the further warning that to enter "a smooth sea is essential; during heavy weather the sea breaks fully 2 miles off shore." "The streams which flow from Dry Bay are navigable for boats and canoes, but have bars at their mouths which require great care to pass over, as the sea generally breaks on them. The Indians, however, get then" large canoes, forty to sixty feet long, in and out by selecting the time, and it is reported that once inside there is continuous or nearly continuous navigation by these streams and lagoons behind the sea beach all the way to Yakutat." [Dall and Baker, 1883, p. 206.] This is the route which we have been following all the way from the Ankau. In approaching Dry Bay, we come first to the Akwe River, which joins the Ustay from the east, to empty through a common mouth about 12K miles west of Dry Bay. The Akwe rises in a lake at the foot of Chamberlain Glacier and also receives a tributary from a small lake near the easternmost branch of the Italio. About a mile from the sea, where it meets the Ustay, it "is deflected around a high wooded point through 180?," then the combined streams flow west- ward almost 4 miles before entering the sea (Moser, 1901, p. 387). The Akwe, according to our informants, formerly joined the Ustay between 3 and 4 miles farther west of their present junction. The Ustay also rises in a lake below Rodman Glacier on the west, while its eastern branch, Tanis River, rises in a lake of the same name at the foot of Fassett Glacier. From the Tanis-Ustay three streams or creeks flow south- eastward or eastward to empty into Dry Bay, that is, into the main channel of the Alsek River which follows the western shore of the bay. These streams are: in the north, from Tanis River, Gines ("Williams") Creek; then closer to and parallel to the ocean, Kakan- hini (Moser's Ko-kon-heen-ni, or "Stickleback") also known as "Muddy Creek," to distinguish it from a "Clear Creek" which joins it near the mouth; and lastly, the small Stuhinuk or "Cannery" Creek. The Kakanhini and Stuhinuk enter Dry Bay near the mouth of the Alsek, forming a long, narrow island between them, on which is a now deserted cannery and Indian village. If coming by canoe, we would ascend the eastern branch of the Italio to a small muddy lake, from which there is "a hard portage through the timber" to the westernmost tributary of the Akwe (Moser, 1901, p. 387). Robson, who made the trip in 1909, also reported (1910, p. 166): "At the head of Italio River is the 'stick portage,' so called because the portage is through timber and over a hill to the Akwe." From here, one would run down the Akwe to its con- fluence with the Ustay, go up the latter, and then down the Kakanhini. This route is dangerous because of the many bars in the rivers and patches of quicksand. However, it is also possible to make the journey on foot, if one has cached the canoe at Dangerous River IN THREE PARTS HOMELAND OF THE YAKUTAT TLINGIT 83 and followed the edge of the tree line until the Italio River could be forded just above the lagoon at its mouth. From here, one would "walk along the ocean beach to the Akwe, then follow up the right bank for about 3 miles from the mouth, crossing two wooded belts separated by a "broad, treeless, sand plain," until, beyond a "low, grassy plain," the Akwe "can be forded under normal conditions. Caution, however, must be used as there is considerable quicksand, but by using a pole and sounding ahead a passage can be made" (Moser, 1901, p. 387). The ford is apparently just below the confluence of the Akwe and Ustay. Near here, however, Moser noted that a canoe was usually kept on the eastern bank of the Akwe for ferrying. This place was probably near the former junction of the rivers, where an old village site was reported (one of the two locations given for Gusex, see below). The route leads from here along the shore, where "the sea beach affords an excellent highway, particularly at low water," and a "well-defined trail" led up to the village at the mouth of the Stuhinuk and Kakanhini Creeks (Moser, 1901, p. 387). Along this route, there is now a road between the mouth of the Akwe-Ustay to the fishcamp at the very southwest entrance point of Dry Bay. Emmons (MS.) translates the name "Ah-qway" as "great water." My informants pronounced it 'akwe; it is probably Athabaskan. Tebenkov's map (VII; Davidson, 1904, map vi) indicates that the Akwe and "Akse" or Ustay Rivers emptied directly into the sea at their confluence. On each was a village, designated as the "Nearer" and "Farther Village to the Russian Post [at Yakutat]." Davidson (1869, p. 136) also reports these villages as some 6-12 miles upstream from the common mouth. The first seems to be on the south or west bank opposite the confluence of the western and northern (main) branches of the Akwe; the second appears to be on the west bank of the Ustay opposite the opening into Gines Creek. (See map 23, p. 160.) Tebenkov's "Nearer Village" is certainly the main Tl'uknaxAdi and TlukwaxAdi town, Gusex, described by one informant as halfway up the Akwe, near a lake. It was originally an Athabaskan settlement, where the wandering QakexwtE from southeastern Alaska taught the Athabaskans how to catch fish. In Swanton's version of the story (1909, Tale 32, pp. 160-161), the L!uk!nAXA'dt (Tl'uknaxAdi) the next year built Sleep House at Kos !e'x. Swanton's Wrangell informant located this village vaguely on the Alse'x, and referred to it also as Kosle'xka at "the mouth of Copper river," but it is evidently the same place (Gusex). Here, the Tlingit Tl'uknaxAdi established important houses that were built or rebuilt after the defeat of the Russians at Yakutat, and to it they brought the Russian loot taken from the Tlaxayik-Teqwedi or L'uxedi. The houses said to have been built here were variously listed as Mountain (Fairweather) House, Sea Lion House, Whale House, Far Out House, and Frog House. The last was named for an enormous frozen frog found when digging the foundations. The town was abandoned after 1852, perhaps as late as 1865 (?), after a Tl'uknaxAdi party, enroute to southeastern Alaska, was drowned in Lituya Bay. From Gusex, the inhabitants moved away, some to Hoonah and Sitka, others to the settlement near the Dry Bay can- nery from which their descendants came to Yakutat. On the Akwe, Emmons (MS.) mentions "Kul-se- gun-ke-ye (to see through the trees)," where 20 people lived hi three houses in 1886, but which later became only a summer fishing camp. It was near a thinly timbered point, but is otherwise not located. He also reports "Gooch-ache (hill town)," named for a peculiar cone-shaped hill at the confluence of the Akwe and Ustay. It was occupied especially by the XafkA'ayi with Kagwantan wives, and was once very large, al- though only four houses remained in 1900. While the name suggests Gusex, the site was apparently farther downstream than most informants would place the latter. If Emmon's translation of "hill town" is correct, it would be gutc-'ani in Tlingit. In any case it seems to be near the canoe ferry mentioned by Moser. My informants called the Tanis-Ustay River, Tanfs, but did not translate it. When there were (Tlaxayik-?) Teqwedi at Knight Island, the ThikwaxAdi from Dry Bay provoked war with them. To protect themselves, they built a fortified village somewhere on the Alsek, "back towards the mountains," called "Eddy Fort;" Cixa'a nuwu. This was probably well up the Alsek River (see p. 89). Later, when peace was established, they moved downstream and settled at DmEtki-'an, "it wiggles like jelly," evidently referring to the shifting sand (see Boas, 1917, p. 142; yA-nAt', 'to shake'). It is said that "no trees or greens grow here at all. . . . It's like it's floating. . . . It's where the Alsek is just running out swift. . . . There's a big bluff there, a clear place," on the west side of the river (MJ for Frank Italio). Emmons (MS.) also mentions a settlement, "De-nis-te-nar (shaking ground)" on the Tanis, named for the quicksands in that river, which suggests the same settlement. Here a mixed Tlingit^-Athabaskan popula- tion of 40 was living hi two large houses in 1888. Riddell and Lane were told of a former village on Gines Creek, which flows from the Tanis to the Alsek. Tebenkov's "Farther Village" was on the Tanis, where Gines Creek branches off. Possibly all these accounts refer to a single settlement, established after "Eddy Fort." Emmons (MS.) noted a village with three houses belonging to the ]fcai!kA'ayi, called "Tlu-tu-heen-nok 84 SMITHSONIAN CONTRIBUTIONS TO ANTHROPOLOGY VOLUME 7 (water from the nose) [possibly lutu hinnAx], literally meaning Dry Point." He located it at the mouth of a northern [sic] branch of the Alsek, where a point sticks out into Dry Bay. The name suggests what our inform- ants called Ltuhinuq (probably very poorly recorded), and applied to a village on Stuhinuk ("Cannery") Creek, or rather on the island between it at Kakanhini Creek, farther inland. At the Dry Bay (eastern) end of the long, narrow island between these two sloughs, there is a sand dune. On this I was told could still be seen the footprints made when Raven with a cane shaped like a devilfish ten- tacle drew ashore an "ark" filled with all kinds of food animals. Canoe Prow House of the ThikwaxAdi refers to the enclosed prow of this canoe, and the Tl'uknaxAdi use a dance paddle shaped like the cane. The point, 'Atuqka, was "a place just like the prow of a canoe? like an island." In 1901, Moser noted a settlement on the southeast side of the island. On the ocean side are the ruins of the Tl'uknaxAdi Far Out House (also called Frog House) and Thunderbird House of the CAnkuqedi. Canoe Prow House of the TlukwaxAdi is on the north side near the old cannery. One informant also men- tioned a Tl'uknaxAdi Boulder House. It is not clear how many sites or locations were involved, for my in- formants vaguely described several places, and spoke of the houses as having been built or rebuilt several times. The last tune was in 1909-10 for Frog House and Thunderbird House; Canoe Prow House is a frame house built in 1925. At an earlier period, the houses are described as having been farther "back" (more in- land towards Kakanhini Creek ?). All are now deserted, as is the cannery, built and abandoned between 1901 and 1912. There are graves near the village site and on the sand dune bearing dates from 1905-30. According to Goldschmidt and Haas (1946, pp. 84- 85) the village with Far Out House, Boulder House and Thunderbird House was on the east side of Dry Bay, near the mouth, but this seems to be in error, for my informants clearly placed it on the west. Emmons had heard of a village on Kakanhini Slough, called "Ko-ghan-heenee (Stickleback)" but nothing remained of it in his day. The Tlingit name would be MgAn (Boas, 1917, p. 128). "Huskay (back of the trees)" ['as-t'a?] was also remembered as a village somewhere in Dry Bay. When Robson went to Dry Bay in 1909 along the streams and sloughs from Yakutat, he found about 50 members of the "Dry Bay tribe" living in temporary summer huts and tents near the mouth of the Kakan- hini, where they were putting up salmon. By the middle of September, however, "The huts were still standing, but the Indians had long since caught then- winter supply of salmon and retreated to the shelter of the mountains" (Robson, 1910, pp. 173, 166-167). The sandy flats of Dry Bay are traversed not only by the mouths of the Alsek River, but by other streams coming from the mountains on either side. According to Tebenkov's chart, these various streams are (from west to east): the Kakagina; Vankagina (west of Bear Island); and the Kunakagi, Taaltsug, and Tlegan, (east of the island). Most of these cannot be identified with the present streams and sloughs. The latter are the main channel of the Alsek on the west, East (or Easting) River (now called East Alsek River) in the middle of the delta, and the Dohn (now called Doame) River that skirts Deception Hills on the east. The rocky island in the middle of the bay is called "Bear Island," because it is frequented by so many bears that it is dangerous to go there without a gun. The native name is GXltcinuwu (untranslated). (It sounds like gal, gal, 'clam'; djin, 'hand'; nuwu, 'fort of.) Swanton's Sitkan informant (1908, p. 413) gave it the name GAltse'niwa, and reported (in error, I be- lieve) that it had given the name 'people on the island' to the QlAtlkaa'yi (?at!kA'ayi). The island looks like a stranded whale, and is in fact the Whale down whose blowhole Raven flew, and which he caused to wash ashore at Dry Bay. The Alsek delta is sandy because Raven wished the Whale to strand on a fine sandy beach. The people that flenzed the Whale and whom Raven cheated of the blubber lived on the east side of the bay, at Yay tayi, 'Whale's Fat.' On or very close to the island are rocks that were once an adolescent girl in her puberty hood, her two brothers, and their two dogs, all turned to stone because she looked at them. To approach these rocks will cause stormy weather. Swanton (1908, pi. xx[x, c) figures a TmkwaxAdi hat which illustrates "the story of a man (the figure in the center), and two girls (on the sides) who turned into stone while trying to cross Alsek river." Dry Bay is where Raven opened the box of Daylight which he had stolen. The sudden burst of light not only so frightened the people that they ran away and turned into various sea and land animals according to the furs they were wearing, but also drove all the rocks away. Raven also tricked the king salmon into coming; ashore at Dry Bay. On the lower part of the Alsek River in Dry Bay is a small place called KunagX'a, where people living on the east side of the bay used to go to put up king salmon. "We always go up to the [Alsek] glacier here and stay, and then go to KunagA'a in Dry Bay over here," I was told. Emmons (MS.) reports "Ku-nar Ka-ha" as a sand flat at the mouth of the Alsek where people caught king salmon in the early summer. Pos- sibly it was on the north shore of the bay, opposite the entrance to Tebenkov's "Kunakagi" or what we now call East River. My informants applied the name Diyayi or Diyayi IN THREE PARTS HOMELAND OF THE YAKUTAT TLINGIT 85 to the Dohn River, or, more probably, to the land bordering the eastern shore of Dry Bay. "Dog Salmon River," Titl' hini, is either the correct name for the Dohn River, or else for one of its main tributaries that drains the west slope of Deception Hills. Minnie John- son said that Diyayi was a rocky mountain or hill, east of the Alsek, where a big rock stands up like a man. It was here that QakexwtE taught the Athabaskans how to catch eulachon in a fish trap. People used to live partly up Titl' hini, and this settlement is prob- ably what Emmons (MS.) called "De-arge (across the river)" and described as a small village on a "southern branch of the Alsek." A woman, who had lived here as a child, said of the place: "Deception Hills are above it. It was an old place?all sandy. They lived on the north side, I guess. That sand was all over. There was no fresh water near the mouth." The last man to live on Dohn River, after all the TlukwaxAdi had died off, was John Williams (1887- 1943), builder of Canoe Prow House on the other side of Dry Bay. It was on the Dohn River, or Titl' hini, that the parents of an informant were drowned by a sudden flood of glacial melt water in 1907. Her Kag- wantan paternal grandfather used to set his salmon trap in a nearby stream, Gun hin, 'Clear Spring Water.' Perhaps his Box House was on the Dohn or Titl' hini. Although the coast from Dry Bay nearly to Cape Fairweather is considered to belong to the Dry Bay people, a discussion of this area is best postponed until we have visited the upper Alsek River, as the natives used to do. On the lower Alsek, in the Dry Bay-Akwe area there was formerly excellent fishing, especially in the smaller rivers and sloughs where eulachon, king, red or sockeye, silver, humpback, and dog salmon were caught. By 1925, however, the Akwe River and the "basin" of the Alsek River had to be permanently closed to commercial fishing, and other regulations have severely limited the length of the commercial fishing season off the mouths of the rivers. Many Yakutat people go regularly to Dry Bay early in the summer to fish for the cannery, before the season opens off Situk and Lost Rivers. Around the shores of Dry Bay are salmonberries, blueberries, highbush cran- berries, and other fruits. In the mountains above are brown and black bear and mountain goat, but there were no deer or porcupine. Fur-bearers were lynx, marten, wolf, wolverine, fox, and land otter (Gold- schmidt and Haas, 1946, pp. 83-85). THE ALSEK RIVER Despite its swift currents, the Alsek formed a high- way for travel between the coast and the interior. According to Robson (1910, p. 169), who made the ascent during the summer, there are two difficult canyons to pass. The first is 20 miles (by river) from the mouth, and lies between a cliff 1,000-1,500 feet high on the west, and the 200-foot ice wall of the Alsek Glacier on the east. Beneath the latter was a lake, which probably does not form every year. The canyon is only 1,000 feet wide and is filled with swirling water. "The Indians have a superstitious fear of the place, for several of their number have been drowned and they cannot be induced to go near it except in winter when everything is frozen over. In the cranky little dugouts having only a few inches of freeboard it is little wonder that they met destruc- tion in the terrible waves and swirls." [Ibid., p. 169.] Above the first canyon is a 25-mile stretch of valley, midway along which is the receding end of a glacial tongue belonging to the great "through glacier" which connects the Alsek River and Russell Fiord. Robson (ibid., p. 171) commented on the beautiful summer weather experienced above the first canyon, because "the mountain ranges through which we had passed shut out the rains and storms of the Pacific." The second canyon is some 40 miles above Dry Bay, where the Alsek in descending makes a right-angle bend from south to west, and where a second ice- discharging glacier, the Melbern, enters from the east. Above this, in British Columbia and some 70 miles from the sea, is the confluence of the Tatshenshini from the northeast with the main branch of the Alsek. Still farther upstream the Kaskawulsh enters from the northwest. Although Robson did not travel above this point, he saw no floating ice here, and so concluded that there were no glaciers discharging into either river, although, of course, most of their tributaries flow from icefields. He noted that from the forks one could travel in winter to Glacier Bay, via the Melbern and the Grand Pacific Glacier. Possibly this was the way QakexwtE was supposed to have come to Dry Bay. Robson's journey downstream was exceedingly rapid, since the canoes made 50 miles in only 5 hours, whereas 86 SMITHSONIAN CONTRIBUTIONS TO ANTHROPOLOGY VOLUME 7 there had been many days of hard labor cordelling the boats upstream (ibid., p. 172). In the summer of 1890, Glave and Dalton had gone into the interior from Lynn Canal, via what was to be known as the Dalton Trail over Chilkat Pass, and then crossing a pass, had gone down the Tatshenshini and Alsek to the coast. Glave (1892, p. 880) describes the Alsek as: " . . . a wild dangerous river which races along with an eight-knot current, its volume at times spread over the rocky valley in a dozen channels which combine in one deep torrent when the moun- tains close in and narrow the limits with their rocky walls. Along the banks of the Alseck old moraines slope to the river's edge, and active glaciers are pushed far out into the stream; the internal working of the ice- field maintains a continued rumble, and blocks of ice topple into the river, and whip the waters into a con- fused, seething mass. Eighty miles to the east of Yakutat, on the south coast of Alaska, the Alseck Eiver plunges in one deep, angry torrent through a canon of rock and ice, flows over the stony waste known as Dry Bay, and pours a muddy volume into the blue waters of the Pacific Ocean." Because of the difficulties of getting a canoe up the river, the prospectors avoided the lower stretches by traveling over the "through glaciers" east of the Alsek. Tarr and Butler (1909, p. 35) write: "For example, it is said by prospectors that one could start from the terminus of Yakutat Glacier, whose end rests on the foreland east of Yakutat [at the head of Dangerous River], and, ascending to a broad ice divide, pass on down into the Alsek Valley by one of several courses. . . . [The icefield could also be crossed from Hubbard Glacier, Nuna- tak Glacier and Hidden Glacier.] In fact, several years ago some of these glaciers were actually used as highways by scores of prospectors as a means of entrance to the Alsek Valley, some going to the head of Russell Fiord and ascending a glacier (called "Fourth Glacier"), which comes down to the fore- land just east of the fiord, others going from the head of Nunatak Fiord up Nunatak Glacier (called "Third Glacier"). . . . The ruins of a store at the head of Russell Fiord and the remnants of sledges at the base of the nunatak in Nunatak Fiord and of boats at the landing place near by are relics of these days of over-ice travel." Hundreds of prospectors went this way during the Gold Rush, and Fourth Glacier is "still a highway to the Alsek Valley" (Tarr and Martin, 1910, p. 7). Blackwelder (1907 a, p. 87-88) reports that in 1898 the prospectors dragged their sleds about 40 miles from Nunatak Glacier to the head of "American River," a tributary of the Alsek, but that crevasses later rendered this route impassable. Farewell (1909, p. 536) states: "At the time of the Klondike excitement a number tried to go up the Alsek. A little settlement was formed on the west branch of the river, called New Hamberg, which is evidence that there was a Ger- man in the party. It lasted only one winter. It is said that some of the men were four months getting over the glaciers from Disenchantment Bay, and whether any ever succeeded in getting into the Klondike that way is highly problematical." The Whites were not the first to use this route. One informant said that after the original owners had sold the Ahrnklin area to the Teqwedi they walked into the interior over one of the glaciers from Russell Fiord, probably Nunatak Glacier. They went to Tcanukwa, probably on the headwaters of the Alsek, near Scotty Creek and below Wesketahin (Dalton Post). It took them 3 months walking. From here they went in 1% months to "Taku Lake," identified as Taku Arm of Lake Atlin, walked all around Atlin Lake, and then went to Klukwan on Lynn Canal. Even if this ex- ceedingly circuitous route seems difficult to credit as historically accurate, it indicates something of Yakutat knowledge of the interior, Gunana 'ani, 'Athabaskans' land.' Travel on the Alsek itself was so dangerous because of the extent of the glaciers which were formerly greater than today. When Topham (1889 a, p. 425) was at Takutat in 1888 he heard, perhaps from the prospec- tor who had come from Dry Bay by canoe, that just above "the lagoon at its mouth," the Alsek "passes beneath a portion of the Pacific Glacier which de- scends from Mount Fairweather. The Indians portage across the ice, and launch their canoes above it," and had explored as far as 100 miles above the mouth of the Alsek. According to Robson (1910, p. 171); 'Dalton and Glave, who floated down the Alsek in 1890, speak of a place where the river runs under a glacier near the sea. The two places described above, the first and second canyons where glaciers discharge directly into the river are the only approaches to that condition, and it is hardly possible that so great a change has occurred in twenty years." While I believe that such a change could have occurred in this space of tune, Glave's account of their descent of the Alsek (Janu- ary 3, 1891) does not mention passing under the ice. Presumably, however, Glave and Dalton heard the native traditions about it. My own informants men- tioned the ice bridge (see below), and while similar ice barriers are reported by various native groups to have spanned every major river from the Copper to the Stikine (Tarr and Martin, 1914, p. 416; Garfield, 1947, pp. 438, 447; deLaguna, 1956, p. 2; 1960, pp. 132, 137), there is no reason to discredit these traditions. We may infer, rather, that an ice bridge across the IN THREE PARTS HOMELAND OF THE YAKUTAT TLINGIT 87 Alsek has formed and broken several times. These changes would be due to temporary advances of the ice, despite the general retreat of the glaciers since the 18th century, and to floods caused by the breaking of ice-dammed lakes on the headwaters. Two such occurrences in the last century were re- ported to us by an Indisn who lived at Mile 1022 on the Alaska Highway near the Alsek headwaters, and who had heard from his mother of the ice dams' breaking. In contrast, in 1908 the Alsek River terminus of the Grand Pacific "through" Glacier was advancing into the forest (Tarr and Martin, 1914, p. 193). As with all glacier-fed streams, the amount of water and the strength of current in the Alsek were likely to vary greatly over a short period of time. Thus Tarr and Martin (1910, p. 35) state: "The natives residing at Dry Bay, 60 miles southeast of Yakutat Bay, report that in the summer of 1909 there were remarkable and long-continued changes in the volume of the Alsek River, which may be related to the advancing and breaking of some of the glaciers whose ends lie up this valley." An informant who lived in Dry Bay has told of many drownings caused by sudden rushes of water which overturned canoes or swept across the mud flats. Although it is not possible to identify the majority of the localities involved, our informant's accounts of travel up and down the Alsek are not without interest. "My father's people, TlukwaxADi, used to go way up to the head of Alsek, 'Aisexyik. They would catch king salmon, slice it and cover it over with cottonwood branches. They used duq (cottonwood) leaves (kayani) and put it on top of the dry fish. They would just leave it there, and when they came down from the head of Alsek, it was just dried good. Up at Tmx kayani ['Kinniirinik Leaves'] at the head of Alsek, they used to get soapberries and other kinds of berries and put them in a box. They used to go up there for all kinds of meat?black bear meat, and then they come down. That's where my father's people stay, way up there on an island, getting soapberries and king salmon. "When they were going up the river, they used to cross the glacier the whole way across. They took their cottonwood dugouts with them. They took then- canoes up a gully between two mountains, like a V, with a ravine, gel' or gel'i:w, like a steep place between the two mountains. They carry the canoes over. It takes them one or two days." This portage is apparently over the point of land on the west bank of the Alsek, opposite Alsek Glacier. The mountain on the west was called Gel'guwa, while the hill on the east side of the Alsek, Gateway Knob, was called Kit6a in Athabaskan, or YAdagwAl in Tlingit, referring to the stones that continually 'rolled down' from it (or from the glacier). Of Gateway Knob: "That's where the rocks fall all around, and they call it Yel tsunayi ['Raven's work'?]. There are rocks that big [the size of golf balls] coming down. It's funny they don't go in the boat. They just fall around the boat. When you are going to die? that's the time they go in the boat. Old Crow [Raven] made it like that. His wife is just scared. 'Oh, it's going to drop on our boat and go through!' [she said]. 'Don't worry about it,' said Raven. 'Oh no, they won't go through.' I believe it [my informant added.] When my father was going up to Tmx kayani, it touched his boat. That same summer they drowned." One gathers that the ascent might be made in the spring or in the (late?) summer, when the snow was melting and rocks falling, as well as in the fall or winter when the river was frozen (see below). In fact, another woman explained: "Tou know the Alsek is very swift. They need lines to take the canoes up," implying that canoes were towed upstream (MJ). Blackwelder (1907a, p. 87) reports, however, that the Alsek can be ascended by small boats only during low water; which would mean that from some time in May or June until some- time in August, swollen floodwaters fill the whole lower canyon and make ascent impossible. "They used to cross the glacier to go up the river, but going down they had to go under the glacier. That water is pretty rough. Every tune they come out, everybody sings. They put on their new shoes [sic] and all their good clothes before they go under the glacier, for fear they will drown. The clothes are of moose and caribou hide, tanned white, and sometimes have porcu- pine quill embroidery. I know that song, too. That man, he stands up in front of the boat and he sings that song. [It is now used as a dancing song for pot- latches (1954, 6-2-D; p. 1230.] The informant's son explained the trip: "The TlukwaxAdi lived in Dry Bay, and used to go up the Alsek, and take their canoes over a point called Gel'&w, through a V-shaped notch. They would go up every fall or winter to YewAltcA hin, a river where there is a glacier and the ice breaks in spring. [There, or some- where else up the Alsek, is a place called "King Salmon Bone," T'aketci, (possibly feiici, 'dried king salmon'?).] When they went up in the fall they would hang fish to dry there and it would take care of itself. Nothing happens to it. They would spend the whiter in the in- terior and come back in the spring. [He also mentioned Yel tsunayi] "a place up the Alsek where pebbles keep falling all the time, but they won't hit the canoe unless someone is going to die. Yel [Raven] told his wife the pebbles would fall outside the canoe?that's why . . . When they came down [under Alsek Glacier], they would put on then1 best clothes, and after they had passed the glacier they would yell, and it would break behind them, because they were so happy." He also reported that they sang. 88 SMITHSONIAN CONTRIBUTIONS TO ANTHROPOLOGY VOLUME 7 136* 134* \ > From N\s.Map o\ a\asV.a.,and Br. Co\umV\oSS N VM.TerrWory e of Miles. O _ 1O 2a 3O 1.0 so fro 63 " W. MAP 12.?.The Alsek River. (Davidson, 1901 a.) IN THREE PARTS HOMELAND OF THE YAKUTAT TLINGIT 89 Not only did the glacial arch apparently break between 1888(?) and 1890(?), but it also broke when Emma Ellis' father's mother was a little girl (about 1850?), creating such a big wave that many people drowned in Dry Bay. The second glacier ascending the river (on the north- west side, near the British Columbia boundary), is where Raven threw away his wife's sewing basket and a big king salmon stomach. It is said that one can still see them. Four days' hard journey up the Alsek, but only one day's run down, was a camping spot called 'Glacier Point,' Sf on the Kaliakh River near this mountain, reported by informants and by a resident of Cape Yakataga to Don Miller. Harring- ton gives kalyAx as the Eyak name for the river. According to Krauss, galyAx means 'the lowest' of a series. One of my informants who had visited this area as a boy in 1900 saw the remains of a large old-style house on the west side of the river. This was the Beaver House of the Galyix-Kagwantan, and the village their "capital town," where they defended themselves against an Aleut attack. The famous Teqwedi from Yakutat, ^Catgawet, is said to have fought beside the local chief, his father-in-law. The Kwacl:qwan also lived here. In 1900, I gather, the main settlement was at Yakataga Village. This area is traditionally rich in furs, especially beaver and sea otter, but was too small to support a large population. In consequence, the Tcicqedi (Eagles), "cousins" of the Kagwantan, who had followed them, had to live "farther west in the swampy place." Later, when the Kagwantan multiplied and spread into Con- troller Bay and to Bering River, they continued to use the Kaliakh country for hunting. The Tcicqedi were given territory near the mouth of the Copper River, by their Raven fathers, the Copper River "GanAxtedi." Later, the "GanAxtedi" took back some of their land, because the Tcicqedi were getting too many furs. The last two sibs are represented among the Copper River Eyak. Billy Jackson (1883-1951) told Goldschmidt and Haas (1946, p. 74) that his people, the Kwaciqwan (traditionally spouses of the Galyix-Kagwantan), used to go to ". . . a river called gaLgox which belonged to the Kagwantan. It is about eight miles west of Yakutegi. We went up to the head of the river and had houses at the mouth and at the head of the river. One of these houses belongs to my brother and me. My brother was there last in 1911. Nobody goes up there now except a man named Sawak, a Tlingit from Katalla [the informant's nephew.]" On a stream, Tcuqe or Djuke, entering the Kaliakh River from the north, Yakategy John, who built the Wolf Bath House at Yakutat, used to put up fish. There were presumably other fishing and hunting camps in the area about which we were given no specific information. Emmons (MS.) mentions the tradition of an ancient village, "She-ta-ha-na-ta," somewhere west of Yaka- taga, but otherwise not located, which was swept away by an advance of the ice, or by a flood of glacier melt water. It may be in the Kaliakh River area, or possibly on the Bering River (see below). Krauss suggests that the name "She-ta-ha-na-ta" may be Eyak for 'north- ward (upstream) he lives' (ci-da' gAlAtah). On the cliffs at Cape Suckling are said to be faces, some turned sidewise, and also arms and legs. These were made by Raven, who "did a lot of funny things around there, shaping the land," it is said. Captain Belcher who sailed eastward along this coast in 1837 reports (1843, vol. 1, p. 77): "In one direction from the southward, Cape Suckling exhibits on its lower profile, the brow, nose, and lips of a man. It is a low neck, stretching out from a mountainous isolated ridge, which terminates about three miles from it easterly, where the fiats of the ice pyramids just aluded to terminate" [i.e., the evenly cracked steps on Bering Glacier]. A man who has walked from Cordova to Yaka- taga said that there was a cave at Cape Suckling, with rock crystals, but that these did not seem to be valued by the natives. This is evidently 'Raven's House,' Yel hidi. The same man said that he had been told that there were whale bones on top of "Cape Suckling Mountain." At Controller Bay one leaves the exposed coast and again enters somewhat sheltered waters. We may con- sider the eastern limit of this area to be Cape Suckling, from the base of which the low sand dunes stretch west- ward 7 nautical or 8 statute miles, to form Okalee Spit, even though the cape itself is exposed. Similarly, Kayak Island, which with Okalee Spit shelters Controller Bay from the south, thrusts itself far into the Pacific. This is an island some 20 miles long, narrow, and rising in the middle to peaks about 1,390 feet high. The western edge of Controller Bay is formed by the smaller Wing- ham and Kanak Islands. The eastern shore of Controller Bay is low and swampy, with quicksands reported near the mouth of one of the main streams which drain 102 SMITHSONIAN CONTRIBUTIONS TO ANTHROPOLOGY VOLUME 7 into the bay from the western edge of Bering Glacier. Bering River enters the bay from the north, and from here until one reaches the edge of the Copper River delta beyond Cape Martin, the north shore is low but backed by higher hills, and is scalloped into three small bays, from east to west: Redwood Bay, Strawberry Harbor, and Katalla Bay. Controller Bay was an area claimed by both Chugach and Indians (see pp. 18-19; and Birket-Smith and de Laguna, 1938, pp. 17, 341-354). There is no question but that the Tlingitized Eyak were established in the area at the end of the 18th or beginning of the 19th century, and that there were Chugach on Kayak Island at the time of Bering's discovery. The extent of the Chugach holdings and the validity of their claims are naturally disputed by both sides. Dr. Krauss (letters of December 20, 27,1966, and January 9, 1967) believes that the Eyak were on the mainland snores of Controller Bay, becoming progressively more Tlingit acculturated, while the Chugach were on the islands of Controller Bay, from which they were finally expelled by the Tlingit and Tlingitized Eyak. As observed by a former native resident of Katalla, when asked why so many places in Controller Bay had "Aleut" (Chugach) names: "The Aleut tried to take the land away from us. They are the strongest and smartest nation. My tribe [Tcicqedi] chased them back to Hinchinbrook Island [in Prince William Sound]. This was long before the Russians came," said my informant. Actually, this may have been about 1792, only a few years before the Russians established them- selves at Yakutat, but, of course, the enmity between the Eyak and the Chugach is traditional and there were probably plenty of battles before that. In any case, the 19th-century population in the Controller Bay area seems to have been mixed, for there were not only Eyak-speaking Galyix-Kagwantan, Tcicqedi, and others, but Tlingit-speakers from Yakutat, and one very old lady remembered as a child hearing Atna spoken at Chilkat on Bering River (KDI). Controller Bay was evidently an area in which Raven was active. I have already mentioned his cave house and the faces in the rock at Cape Suckling. Kayak Island was a whale which he harpooned, and Wingham Island was his kayak (see below). Okalee Spit was Raven's harpoon line, sometimes called Yel xaxtl'i oi xotl'i (probably Yel xukth', referring to the line from the shaft to the float). A rock between the base of the spit and Cape Suckling was Raven's float, Yel kAtsis. Okalee River, which enters Controller Bay just north of Okalee Spit, was the site of a Galyix-Kagwan- tan settlement, Qaxtale (pronounced 'axdAlih by the Eyak, but probably of Chugach origin, according to Krauss). Here was a Beaver House, where a woman shaman revived some boys who had been stabbed by their uncle, the chief, for being cowardly (see p. 714). This happened about 1860-70(?). Now all that can be seen near the mouth of the river is one old log cabin and the remains of two others. As is well known, it was Cape Saint Elias, the conspicuous southern point of Kayak Island, some 1,600 feet high, that was Bering's landfall in 1741. The spot where Steller landed and found a semisub- terranean Chugach house or cache was near the south edge of the promontory on the northwest side of the island, at about latitude 59?55' N. The Russians landed at the stream on the northwest shore, near longitude 144Q30' W. Bering's fleet master, Khitrov, explored Wingham Island just north of Kayak Island, where he found a summer hut of planks. For an account of what the Russians found and what they left in exchange, see the descriptions in Golder, 1925, and the interpretation in Birket-Smith and de Laguna, 1938 (pp. 341-351). Emmons denies that there was ever a permanent village on Kayak Island, but thinks it was a camping place for sea otter hunters. This is corroborated by the Chugach whose camp had been visited by Steller, as reported to Sauer and Sarychev in 1790, and by the Chugach that Zaikov's expedition met in Controller Bay in 1783. However, the Chugach interpreter with Ismailov and Bocharov, who visited Kayak Island in 1788 reported that both Chugach and "Ugalak mutes" (i.e., Ugalenz, or Eyak-speakers), used to visit the island when hunting sea otters. In mid-July, 1794, the Chatham found a "village that had been recently deserted" (presumably for the summer) on the low, wooded shore "near the north-east point of Kaye's island," that is, Kayak Island (Vancouver, 1801, vol. 5, p. 381). The expedition also visited the bird cliffs on the western side of Wingham Island, where they se- cured 60 dozen eggs of "two sorts of gulls, sea parrots [puffins], shags [cormorants], and curlews" (p. 380). Kayak Island (Kaye's Island), or "Big Kayak," is referred to as 'On the Whale,' YaykA, and it is said that one can smell the fat on it. The meat is black and the fat is white. Raven's harpoon is stuck into it some- where. Lemesurier Point, at the northeast end, is the 'Whale Head,' Yay ca. A crack where "steam" comes out is the whale's blowhole. Also on the island, is a "Spirit House," S'ege qawu hidi, literally 'dead person's house.' This is probably a cave. It is slippery in front of the "house," and if you fall when walking past, you must scream like a fox, or you will die. A human "spirit" (ghost) lives there, and the rock looks like a curtain tied up for a door. There is a high cliff on the island, too, down which fall rocks like marbles. Raven said, "Don't drop on anyone's head," so they don't. They fall all around you when you walk, but they don't hit you. IN THREE PARTS HOMELAND OF THE YAKUTAT TLINGIT 103 A man who was well acquainted with Kayak Island, having carried mail to the lighthouse at Cape Saint Elias for 5 years, and who had also walked along both sides of the island, was able to confirm some of the above information. The place where pebbles drop is probably near the lighthouse, for once when he was walking there, a tiny pebble fell off the 1,400-foot cliff, bounced, and struck his companion on the knee. "So the Raven didn't stop that." Just north of Steller's hill on the west side (Golder, 1925, vol. 2, fig. 4), and barely above high water mark, is a big cave, the inside of which is stained brown as if painted. This may be the ghost's house. There is no crack emitting steam, but near the middle of the eastern shore where big boulders have fallen down, the surf that comes in is thrown up like a whale's spout. There is a lot of white rock on the island, but my informant had never de- tected any smell. Now, the island is overrun with martens, abandoned after an unsuccessful venture in fur farming. In 1886, Seton-Karr (1887, p. 147, p. 157 and illus- tration) visited a small settlement, "Kaiak," on "Kaiak Island," where some Scandinavians had a trading post (pi. 68). This was "picturesquely situated behind cliffs, facing the mainland, sheltered by the two islands Kaiak and Mitchell [Wingham]." There were a few Indian huts, corresponding in style to the Chugach summer smokehouses, although the names of the sea otter hunters whom he met, at least those that could be recognized, seemed to be Tlingit (p. 158). The language was a mixture of "Chilcat, Russian, and Chinook," and although the Indians "designate them- selves as Chilcats [from their main village on Bering River] . . . [they] are known to the traders as Coloshes" (pp. 160 f.)- Reference in this account is also made to "the point of Little Kaiak you see just opposite," so that we cannot be sure whether the post was on the northern end of Kayak Island, or was the settlement called Kayak on Wingham or "Little Kayak" Island. Wingham Island is a low, wooded island about 4% miles long, lying north of "Big" Kayak Island, and was supposed to have been Raven's kayak, pronounced kayak by a Tlingit^speaker, and qiyAq (giyAg) by an Eyak-speaker. This was recognized as a Chugach word. Harrington's informant gave the name thaattl'a&t for "Small Kayak" or Wingham Island. My Tcicqedi informant claimed the island for his sib, but others reported that it belonged to the Galyix-Kagwantan, who used to come there in spring for seals, halibut, cod, and black seaweed. There was a Beaver House at the old village, built of Seattle lumber, and was still standing in 1900-1908. There was also a Galyix- Kagwantan cemetery nearby. The White people were already here at the time the Beaver House was built, and had a cannery. The village is called "Kayak" on the charts and is located on the southern part of the east coast. There was probably a Raven house here also, since Galushia Nelson, a Cordova Eyak, remem- bered going to a potlatch on "Kayak Island" when he was only 8 years old, to which all the Copper River Eyak were invited by the Yakutat Tlingit (Birket- Smith and de Laguna, 1838, pp. 181 f.). Undoubtedly this was at Kayak village on "Little Kayak" or Wing- ham Island, and we may assume that the hosts were Kwac?qwan. Emmons (MS.) reported an old village site, "Tark Hart," on the northeast point of "Little Kayak Island," with 10 log cabins in 1888. By 1903 it was only a stop- ping place for steamers. According to Moser (1899, pp. 129-133), 20 canneries were built in Alaska in 1889, of which 4 were near the Copper River delta, but of these only 2 were still functioning 10 years later. One cannery was built by the Central Alaska Company on Wingham ("Little Kayak or Mitchell") Island in 1889, but moved away the following year. On the same island was the cannery of the Peninsula Trading and Fishing Company which put up packs in 1889 and 1890, and then was moved to "Coquenhena" (Kokenhinik) on the Copper River delta where it was operated until a change in the river channel forced its abandonment in 1897. More permanent were the two canneries in Prince William Sound: Odiak near Cordova, and Orca farther up the channel. However, all drew upon the same runs. Moser (1899, pp. 132 ff.) describes the "wanton fishing" of Eyak Lake near Cordova, and reports how the Copper River Indians rejoiced when the Coquenhena cannery was closed, for in 1896 they were on the verge of starvation for lack of fish. A Yakutat man (born 1893) remembers going to Kayak when he was 4 or 5 years old and walking over the rusty cans left at the abandoned cannery site. His family would go there in the spring, then move to Bering River in August to put up salmon. Already the native population was declining, and because he was the only little boy, so lonely without any other child with whom to play, some White prospectors coming through from Yakataga with dog teams gave him two pups. Kanak Island, low and flat and about 3% miles long, does not seem to have been inhabited until it, like Wingham Island in recent years, was turned into a fox farm. It is called "Egg Island," or Ginlq, said by an Eyak-speaker at Yakutat to be an "Aleut" word. Harrington rendered this as Kinnak, and Krauss reports the Eyak pronunciation as ginAg, although it was probably derived from the Chugach word for 'fire' (kiniq). The most important settlement on Controller Bay was on the firm ground just west of the mouth of Bering River. This was Chilkat, or Djilqat (Harrington, 104 SMITHSONIAN CONTRIBUTIONS TO ANTHROPOLOGY VOLUME 7 tjilkhaat), meaning 'salmon cache' in Tlingit, and apparently named in imitation of the Chilkat tribe on Lynn Canal in southeastern Alaska. It was inhabited by Galyix-Kagwantan, Tcicqedi, and, according to Em- mons, by the "GanAxtedi." He noted that the first sib had Wolf House and Beaver House here, the Tcicqedi had Eagle House, and the GanAxtedi had Raven House; all were in ruins by the beginning of the century. Many Kagwantan are buried here. According to my informants the "original" houses had been farther up the river, even above Bering Lake. When the river flooded, Beaver and Wolf Houses were washed down to the south side of the lake, below Skookum Mountain. A place called 'Anakwe, said to be an Eyak name (probably not, according to Krauss), was where the beavers had built their den, and there a flood had drowned them all, leaving only the single little beaver from whom the Galyix-Kagwantan ac- quired the Beaver crest and the Beaver's mourning song, now used at potlatches (1952, 7-1-B; pp. 254-256). Apparently the original Beaver House of the sib was built at the same place and suffered the same fate. The Tcicqedi had a house on the center of the south shore of Bering Lake, opposite Poul Point, perhaps at the spot to which Beaver House and Wolf House had drifted. There was a fishing place at "Smoke Salmon Stream" up Bering River, where they used to put up fish in August. On the mountains above Bering River many Kwackqwan men (visiting hunters, relatives of the owners?) were killed in a big snowslide, presumably about 1900. This mountain was called 'Ukwyanta. Billy Jackson (1883-1951), a Kwaclqwan man who was born in Cordova, his mother's home, and whose father was a Galyix-Kagwantan man, told Gold- schmidt and Haas (1946, p. 73): "There was a place just below Cordova [sic] called djiLgat where I smoked salmon and hunted. We got black and brown bear, fox, land otter, king salmon and berries. I left there in 1911 but have been back a few times to hunt. There were five smoke- houses when I was there about four miles up the river. This place belongs to the Kagwantan tribe." Moving westward along the north shore of Controller Bay from Chilkat, one comes first to the shallow in- dentation of Redwood Bay, behind Point Hay or "Pete's Point." The point is apparently called Tsadli- yat, said to be a Chugach word. Krauss reports, how- ever, that it is Eyak, meaning 'in a stone (container)' (tsadla-ya'd), an expression commonly applied to bodies of water. Beyond this again is Strawberry Harbor and Strawberry Point. The last is called in Tlingit 'Where They Dig Spruce Roots,' Xat 'AdulsEl'yE, and was formerly an important settlement. The "second" Beaver House was built here, after the destruction of the first on Bering River. This was an old-style building, belonging to Helen Bremner's mother's mother's mother's brother. Until recently an old war canoe is said to have been visible near the foundations. The "third" Beaver House was the one built on Wingham Island, but when the earlier one on Strawberry Point fell down in 1908, it was replaced by a frame building built by Chief John and his nephew John Bremner, and was named both Beaver House and Wolf House. There is also a Galyix-Kagwantan cemetery on the point. The descendants of these men now live at Yakutat, and it is through them that the native claims to the oil lands are based. Even when the last Beaver House was being built, White men were disputing Indian land rights, but a friend of Chief John, a White man named Frank Laughton, is said to have helped him to establish his title before Judge Wilson(?) at Katalla. The house was built not only to honor the ancestors, but "to hold the land for the Kagwantan" (Harry K. Bremner). "The oil people have driven the natives away. The ground is just soaked with oil. My mother's uncles can't make a fire, except on a sandy place. They use the moss to start the fire. They can't drink water from there. They can drink Bering River, but not water around Redwood Bay. . . . In Katalla Bay, between Katalla and Strawberry Point, even when the high tide comes in, there's a blue flame of fire. But even in the southeast storm, it disappears. You can light it again with a match.' (Helen Bremner.) [cf. Martin, 1907.] From Strawberry Point to Copper River, the ter- ritory belongs to the Tcicqedi. Katalla, on the western side of Katalla Bay near its head, is now only a village. Landing is difficult because the sea generally breaks on the bar in front of the Katalla River, and on the beach to the west "with southeasterly or southwesterly winds, landing is impracticable" (Coast Pilot, 9, 1955, p. 92). The settlement is called Qatana. (Note that n and I are frequently interchanged by Tlingit speakers.) This was occupied by the Galyix-Kagwantan, Tcicqedi, and GanAxtedi. About 1870(?), the Tcicqedi had an Eagle House, also known as On-a-Platform House, with two carved house posts. When the Copper River Railroad was being built to bring down ore from the great copper mines at McCarthy and Kennicott on the upper Chitina River, it was expected that Katalla would be the salt water terminus. An informant, who had been here as a boy, said, "Katalla was only a tent town in 1907, but the next year there were big saloons. The boom didn't last long." Another, who has lived in Katalla all his life, told me that at one time there were 4,000 people in Katalla and 14 fancy saloons, with real mahogany bars and beautiful glassware. Although the IN THREE PARTS HOMELAND OF THE YAKUTAT TLINGIT 105 right-of-way had been cleared, trestles built over the sloughs and rivers from Katalla to Copper River, and even some of the rails laid, it was found impossible to build the needed breakwater at Katalla. So the railroad was put in from Cordova, where there is an excellent harbor, even though the route is longer. As soon as the decision was made in faver of Cordova, Katalla became a ghost town, the saloons and stores with all their contents abandoned. This happened before the steamer Portland was wrecked on Katalla beach in 1910. At Katalla were also 17 producing oil wells, a refinery and an absorption plant, finally closed in 1929. Some of my Yakutat informants had worked on building the railroad, and in this way met the Chitina Atna from whom the Kwackqwan were descended. A small Tcicqedi village on the "Salmon River" between Katalla and Cape Martin was called Kuxutliya, or KAxotleya, an Eyak name (MxunlAyah), meaning 'tooth' according to Krauss. The lake here is called Lake Kammtla on the map. Just west of Katalla Bay between Palm Point and Cape Martin lie the two Martin Islands: Whale, and Fox or Kiktak, the outer island on which the light is located. The latter is known as QrxtAq, the Chugach name for "island" as pronounced by an Eyak-speaker at Yakutat (See Birket-Smith 1953, p. 237; qiqertuAq, 'island'). The Tcicqedi village on Cape Martin is QixtAqlAq, 'Behind Martin Island,' as pronounced in Eyak, or GixtaqdAq according to a Tlingit-speaker. (Harrington records these names as kiixtAk and kiixtAk-lAkt; Krauss as gixdAg and gixdAgUg, confirming my deri- vation.) I was also told that inland from Cape Martin was an old forest. Long ago, when looking for mink signs, a man came upon an old, old native graveyard, consisting of grave houses, which he believes had been established long before White people. There was someone in Cordova who had heard about it and wanted to dig there, but my informant threatened to report him to the authorities if he violated the graves. This man had not heard about the village at Cape Martin, however. Seton-Karr (1887, p. 164) stopped at this village in 1886 on his way from Yakutat to Nuchek. "The Indian village is partially fenced with stockading; the houses are merely single-roomed, but of moderate size. Long ago, there was a fur-trading post here, but it was abandoned." This sketch (pi. 69) shows the buildings to be of ordinary log cabin construction. There has been some question as to whether this settlement should be classed as "Eyak" or "Tlingit." Apparently Eyak was spoken here in 1884, although Tlingit from Yakutat used to come to the trading post 265-517?72?TOL VII, pt, 1 9 (Birket-Smith and de Laguna, 1938, pp. 22-24). A precise distinction however, should not be attempted, although west of this point we are certainly dealing with the classic Eyak among whom Tlingit influence was far less pronounced than among their relatives east of Cape Martin. All of the area between Cape Martin and the edge of Prince William Sound at Point Whitshed, about 50 statute or 43.5 nautical miles, lies behind the chain of low sand islands, 4 or 5 miles offshore, which have been formed by the vast silt deposits brought down by the Copper River, and its companions, the eastern most of which is the Martin River. Since this area has been described already by Birket-Smith and myself (1938), I will add here only the additional items of information obtained at Yakutat. From Katalla, a trail led behind the mountains (i.e., Lone Baldy, about 1,200 feet high) to another Tcicqedi village on Softuk Lagoon. This was called in Tlingit Saxw1iall: or SAxwdAq, 'Behind the Cockles' (in Eyak sahwlAg, according to Krauss). It was supposed to have been the first settlement established by the Raven GanAxtedi, a branch of the Atna Ginexqwan who had become separated from their relatives when crossing the glacier, and who turned westward to the Copper River while the others went east to Yakutat. A camp on Martin River, S'a'diqe, was used for hunting in fall and spring. This is Tsa'di-q, from tsa-dA-'e'-q, meaning in Eyak 'on the place of (frequently absent?) mud flats,' according to Krauss. In 1886, Seton-Karr noted two Indian houses on a point, ap- parently in this locality, where the Indians were hunting seals (1887, p. 168). A Tcicqedi camp at the mouth of the Copper River was called KagAn blni, Tlingit for 'Stickleback River.' This is Kokenhenik where the cannery was established, 1890-97. On a western branch of the Copper River was the Eyak town of Alaganik, known at Yakutat as 'AnAXAnlq. Krauss derives the Eyak name 'AnAxAnAg from the Chugach alaaaanaq, 'mistake' (or 'wrong turn'?), a common Eskimo place name. It came to the Eyak via the Tlingit who transformed the I to n. This was a GanAxtedi village, where also lived some "TlukwaxAdi" (not to be confused with the Raven sib of the same name at Dry Bay). The present town of Cordova and the former native village near by called Eyak (no distinction was made at Yakutat) were both known as '1-yaq, and the in- habitants as 'I-yaqqwan. According to Krauss, the name 'i-ya^g is in origin a Chugach place name. The sibs that lived here were the Raven GanAxtedi and Quslke'di (or Kuslkedi) and the Eagle Tcicqedi. Many older Yakutat people had visited Cordova in their youth, and now some of the men go there for commercial 106 SMITHSONIAN CONTRIBUTIONS TO ANTHROPOLOGY VOLUME 7 fishing. But the Eyak community is gone. territory, as well as for tribes and peoples, should be The Copper River itself is known to the Yakutat as compared with the Eyak versions recorded in Cordova 'Iq hfni ('iq hfni), and the Atna as 'Copper Diggers' in 1933 (Birket-Smith and de Laguna, 1938, pp. 543- 'Iq kAhaqwan. (See Boas, 1917, p. 155, 'eq, 'copper'; 545). I am grateful for the corrections and explanations p. 134, kA-yl-ha, 'to dig.') supplied by Dr. Michael E. Krauss (letter of December All of these names for places in and near Eyak 20, 1966). Through Alien Eyes: A History of Yakutat 108 SMITHSONIAN CONTRIBUTIONS TO ANTHROPOLOGY VOLUME 7 18TH-CENTURY EXPLORATION The First Explorers (1741-83) The first Europeans to visit the Gulf Coast of Alaska were members of the Imperial Russian ex- pedition under "Captain-Commander Vitus Bering, the Dane" (Golder, 1922-25). From our point of view the most important person aboard Bering's ship, the Sv Petr (St. Peter), was the German-born naturalist, Georg Wilhelm Steller, then attached to the Imperial Academy of Sciences at St. Petersburg, to whom "we are indebted . . . for some of the most reliable information concerning the Russian discoveries on the American coast" (Bancroft, 1886, p. 54). Bering sailed from Petropavlosk, Siberia, on June 4, 1741, accompanied by the Sv Pavel (St. Paul), under Capt. Alexei Chirikov, in order to discover and explore the reported American mainland to the eastward; but the two ships became separated on June 19, and Chirikov sailed toward the east, encountering the Tlingit on Chichagof Island, while Bering wandered to the northeast. Landfall was made by the Sv Petr on July 16, when Mount Saint Elias and its range were sighted. On July 20, the Sv Petr reached Cape Saint Elias, as Bering named the southern promentory of Kayak Island in Controller Bay, and anchored under its western shore. Steller landed at a cove (subsequently named for him) on the west side of Kayak Island, while Fleet Master Sofron Khitrov investigated nearby Wingham Island. A native hut was visited at each of these localities, although the inhabitants were absent or had run away, and since Bering refused to linger off Kayak Island even long enough to fill the water casks, only meager information was secured about the natives of Controller Bay (Birket-Smith and de Laguna, 1938, pp. 345-350). Chirikov, meanwhile, had sighted land near what is now Dixon Entrance and followed the coast northward to latitude 57?50' N., off the northern end of Chichagof Island. Here he sent a boat ashore, probably into the treacherous waters of Lisianski Strait, and, when it failed to return, dispatched the second. Neither was ever seen again, nor are we ever likely to know whether the crews were lost in the tidal currents or were captured by the Tlingit, who afterward came toward the ship in two canoes in what the Russians interpreted as a hostile manner. Having waited a week and being with- out small boats, the only means of landing on American soil, Chirikov could do nothing but set sail for Siberia. On his return voyage he, too, sighted the snowy crest of Mount Saint Elias. (Bering's expedition is fully documented in Golder, 1922-25.) The direct effect of Bering's expedition upon the Gulf Coast natives could only have been slight, aside from the green cloth, iron kettle, iron knives, iron pipe and tobacco, and Chinese beads that were left in the hut on Kayak Island (Birket-Smith and de Laguna, 1938, p. 350); but the ultimate indirect effects were incalculable. On the homeward voyage the Sv Petr was wrecked on one of the Commander Islands between Alaska and Kamchatka (named for Bering, who died there), and here the survivors found the sea otter. Not only did they eat the flesh, but preserved the skins, and when the castaways finally succeeded in returning to Kamchatka with their furs it was the high prices paid for sea otter pelts that led within a year to what Bancroft (1886, p. 99) has aptly called "the swarming of the Promyshleniki," destined to overwhelm the newly discovered lands and their inhabitants. Controller Bay was later known to have been con- tested by the Chugach Eskimo of Prince William Sound and the Eyak Indians, but it would appear that the semisubterranean hut visited by Steller on Kayak Island was a summer camp of the Chugach, although we can be less certain about the plank house on Wing- ham Island (Birket-Smith and de Laguna, 1938, pp. 341-352; Birket-Smith, 1953, pp. 8-9, 18-20; de Laguna, 1956, pp. 9-10). At this time the Eyak were presumably living at the mouth of the Copper River and probably along the Gulf Coast east of Cape Suckling. Perhaps they also lived on the mainland shores of Controller Bay, even though a branch of the Chugach also claimed the islands. Later in the 18th century, however, the Eskimo were driven from Controller Bay, and only Eyak were to be encountered from the eastern edge of Prince William Sound and the Copper River all the way to Yakutat, where the first Tlingit were met, apparently expanding westward. Nor should we forget that a branch of Atna Athabaskans had come aa permanent settlers to the coast and that their relatives on the middle Copper River made annual trading trips to the Eyak and the Chugach. The multiplicity of tribal groups and the complex- ities of population movements often make it difficult for us to identify the natives encountered by the various European explorers, especially since the Russians, who came to know them be3t, often lumped together all the tribes from the "Vancouver Sounds" (southeastern Alaska) to "Chugatz Bay" (Prince William Sound), and even the Athabaskans of the hinterland, under the one term "Kolosh," although more careful authors recognized the linguistic differences between the Kaigan (northern Haida), Sitka Kolosh (Tlingit), Ougalentz IN THREE PARTS THROUGH ALIEN EYES 109 (Eyak), Mednovtze (Atna), and so on (Tikhmenev, 1863, vol. 2, pp. 340-342). Thus, Tebenkov (1852, pp. 32, 33, 35; cf. Davidson, 1869, p. 56) asserts that the Ugalentz, numbering 1,300 (!), live between Chugatz Bay and Yakutat, while from Yakutat to latitude 52? N. lives a tribe who call themselves "Klinkit" or "people," but who are known to the Russians as "Koloshi." But even the local vocabularies or native place names recorded by early explorers may be no sure guide to tribal identity, for, according to Davidson (1901 b, p. 44), Tebenkov: "says that every year the Tchugatz, (Prince William Sound) and the Yakootat Indians meet at the Copper River to barter; and that the Russians first learned of the shoal water between the mainland and Kayak Island, and off the delta of the Copper River from them. He further states that all places east to Yak- outat bay have each four names; given by the Tchugatz [Chugach Eskimo], the Oogalentz [Eyak], the Copper River Indians [Atna Athabaskans], and the Koloshes [Tlingit]; and that the name Kayak is Koloshian." Although Tebenkov was writing in the middle of the 19th century, much of his information was derived from earlier sources, and I have no doubt that his statement applies with equal validity to conditions in the 18th century. But not all our difficulties of geographical and tribal identification are due to native movements, disputed territorial claims, or multiple designations for the same place. The European explorers were equally guilty of confusion, especially when they tried to claim the same territory for their respective sovereigns, name the same landmarks in honor of their own friends and patrons, or, when they thought they were following in another's track, carelessly applied formerly-used names to the wrong localities. Inaccuracies in latitude and longitude, compass bearings and distances, and too sketchy tracings of the coast line, even when a map is appended to a journal, often make it impossible for us to determine the position of a ship or to identify a landfall. Thus, according to Fleurieu, writing in 1798 (1801, vol. 1, p. lxxviii): "We see that, in 1779, the Spanish were still reduced to trust to the dead reckoning and already for ten years past, the French and the English deter- mined the longitudes at sea, either with the help of astronomical clocks or time-keepers, or by the observa- tion of the moon's distance from the sun and stars!" But even the chronometer, newly invented, was still not perfected in the 18th century. Furthermore, we must not forget that in the Gulf of Alaska the compass variation is extreme, magnetic north ranging from 27? E. of true North well offshore to 31? E. in Yakutat Bay, with varying annual rates of change, necessitating the replotting of the compass roses for each new edition of the U.S. Coast and Geo- detic Survey charts. We simply do not know the magnetic readings used in the late 18th century, unless we can trust the figures given when astronomical observations were made on shore. Wagner (1937, vol. 1, frontispiece) published a map showing the range of magnetic variation by isogonic lines ranging from 15? E. on a great arc Unking San Diego and Umnak Island, 20? E. between Cape Mendocino and Karluk Bay (Bristol Bay), 25? E. from the Strait of Juan de Fuca to the southeastern point of Cook Inlet, and 30? E. from Whale Bay (south of Sitka) to Cape Yakataga. It is stated that the "variation [is] increasing 1' an- nually." However, the chart is not dated, and this hardly agrees with the U.S. Coast and Geodetic Survey chart No. 8402 (Cross Sound to Yakutat Bay) on which the variation is given as 29?15' E. (as of 1950), with an annual decrease of 3'. According to Dall and Baker (1883, p. 210): "The variation of the compass [at Yakutat] in 1791 was 32?24' easterly; it is now [1880?] believed to be about 30?16'." Nor must we forget that longitude was measured from different meridians (Greenwich, Paris, Madrid, Toledo, San Bias, Okhotsk, etc.), some of which were themselves inaccurately determined. (See the list in Wagner, 1937, vol. I, p. 10, in which some of these are reduced to the meridians of Greenwich and Toledo.) To further confuse us, the Spanish league measured 17% to a great circle degree, whereas the marine league of the French was 20 to a degree, and the Russian verst (about 0.66 of a statute mile) was 104.5 to a degree (Fleurieu, 1801, vol. 1, p. lxvii; Coxe, 1803, p. xiv). The marine league of the French, British, and Americans all equaled 3 nautical miles, of which there were 60 to a degree; but since the degrees taken as a measure themselves varied, so did the nautical miles differ by a few feet. A standard international nautical mile was not adopted until 1954! Moreover, the common or English statute mile is still shorter, there being between 69 and 69.5 to a "degree" of lati- tude; modern U.S. Coast Pilots furnish conversion tables for nautical and statute miles, since confusion between the two might lead to catastrophic error. These discrepancies in measurement, however, would pose no serious problems for us except when trying to identify a locality poorly described, or perhaps a shore seen only indistinctly through Alaskan mists. While Russian hunters were pushing eastward along the Aleutian Islands to Kodiak, the Spaniards came to take an interest in the lands north of their posses- sions in California. In 1774 an expedition under Pilot Juan Josef Pe"rez Hernandez, in the Santiago or Nueva Galiria, with Esteban Jose" Martinez as second pilot, was sent out from San Bias by Don Antonio Maria Bucareli y Ursua, Viceroy of New Spam, to explore 110 SMITHSONIAN CONTRIBUTIONS TO ANTHROPOLOGY VOLUME 7 and take possesion of the coast as far north as latitude 60?, in order to forestall Russian expansion.27 Fr. Crespi and Fr. Tomas de la Peiia Savaria served as chaplains.28 Perez probably did not reach even latitude 55? N., as he claimed, although he sighted Forester Island in Alaska ("Santa Christina"), and did a little trading with some Haida near Cape Knox on Graham Island, and with the Nootka near Nootka Sound. The so-called Second Bucareli Expedition was dis- patched the following year, under 1st Lt. Bruno de Hezeta, commanding the schooner Santiago, with Juan Pe'rez as second and CristoVal Reville as pilot. The Santiago was accompanied by the small schooner Sonora, under 2d Lt. Juan de Ayala, with Franscisco Antonio Mourelle (or Maurelle) as pilot. Second Lieutenant Juan Franscisco de la Bodega y Cuadra succeeded to the command of the Sonora, when de Ayala had to relieve the commanding officer of the supply ship, San Carlos, when the latter went insane. The San Carlos explored San Francisco Bay, while the Santiago did not go north of latitude 47?41'. The Sonora, however, visited and named Bucareli Bay on the west coast of Prince of Wales Island, and, more importantly, had contact with the Tlingit at or near Salisbury Sound ("Puerto de los Remedios") ,29 On this voyage, Mount Edgecumbe ("San Jacinto") was sighted, as was Cape Edgecumbe ("Cabo del Engafio"), and the entrance to Sitka Sound ("En- senada del Susto," or Bay of Terrors). The ship also anchored in a small harbor just north of Cape Edge- cumbe ("Puerto de Guadalupe"). The Sonora apparent- ly reached latitude 58? N., just a few miles south of Cross Sound. Fr. Benito de la Sierra and Fr. Miguel de Campa Cos were chaplains on board the Sonora. The journal of the former has been translated by A. J. Baker, and pub- lished with introduction and notes by Henry R. Wagner (Baker, 1930). The journal kept by the pilot Maurelle (or Mourelle) was more important, since an English translation was published by Dames Barrington in 1781 and a year 27 This expedition, and that of 1775, are summarized in Fleurieu, 1801, vol. 1, pp. LXIV-LXXI; Galiano, 1802, pp. xcii- xciii; Bancroft, 1884, vol. 1, pp. 150-166; 1886, pp. 194-202; Krause, 1956, p. 16; Wagner, 1937, vol. 1, pp. 172-179. Eber- stadt, 1941, pp. 31-35, follows Bancroft. 28 For translations of their journals, see Griffin, 1891. Gorinly (1955) gives citations of many published and unpublished journals and other original documents, and of their translations, pertaining to the Spanish voyages of 1774, 1775, and later years. 29 Dall and Baker (1883, p. 159) identify this with Salisbury Sound, named by Portlock in 1787, or the "Bay of Islands" of Cook and Lisiansky. Wagner (1937, vol. 1, p. 176) believes it is "Sea Lion Bay" (Sealion Cove), 2 miles south of the entrance to the sound. later in German by Pallas (1781-83, vol. 3, pp. 198-273). Bairington's version was reedited by T. C. Russell in 1920. While these voyages of the Spanish give us our first information about the Indians of the northern North- west Coast, the first explorer to visit the Gulf of Alaska after Bering was Capt. James Cook, with the Resolution and the Discovery, on his third and last voyage. In May 1778, he sailed up the coast after a visit in Nookta Sound, and saw and named Mount Edgecumbe and the "Bay of Isles," Cross Sound, Cape Fairweather, and the two great giants of the range, Mount Fair- weather and Mount Saint Elias. Although Cook gave different names to features which the Spanish had previously visited, and of course named differently, he seems to have known something about the Spanish explorations of 1774 and 1775 and their claims to the Northwest Coast, since he had orders not to investigate the shores between latitudes 45? and 65? N., but to concentrate on making discoveries north of this point. Nevertheless, he did begin his discoveries at Nootka or "King George's Sound," where he traded with natives. Unfortunately, from here northward he seems to have kept well out to sea. Thus he passed the mouth of Yakutat Bay some distance from shore and did not approach it. A few days later, however, he came to and named Cape Suckling and "Comptroller Bay," and also landed on the south point of Kayak Island, which he named "Kaye's Island" for the King's chaplain. Here he deposited a bottle containing a notice of his discovery and a few coins. He noted the island (Wing- ham) north of Kayak Island. It is regrettable that this excellent observer en- countered no natives along the coast of Alaska until he entered Prince William Sound and still later the great inlet which today carries his name. Captain Cook was certainly unaware that he had actually landed at Bering's Cape Saint Elias, and he mis- takenly gave the name "Beering's Bay" either to Yakutat Bay or to some (apparent?) opening near it, thereby initiating a series of confusions in geo- graphical nomenclature. Even the Russians had no idea where Bering had touched the American coast and carelessly applied the term "Bering's Cape St. Elias" to Cape Clear (the southwestern point of Mon- tague Island in Prince William Sound), to Cape Suck- ling, or even to a nonexistent point between Icy Bay and Yakutat Bay, vaguely confusing Mount Saint Elias with the cape. (See Coxe, 1803, p. 304 note; Alaskan Boundary Tribunal Atlas, 1904.) Bancroft (1886, p. 204) believes that Cook's "Beer- ing's" or "Behring's Bay" was Yakutat Bay. Davidson (1901 b, p. 43) at first concurred, but later (1904, pp. 53-54) argued that although Cook had seen the en- trance to Yakutat Bay, he did not name it, and that IN THREE PARTS THROUGH ALIEN EYES 111 he was actually southeast of Yakutat Bay (i.e. off Dangerous River) when he thought he saw the bay where Bering had anchored, mistaking the gap in the mountains flanking Yakutat Glacier for the opening of a bay, since he was too far off the coast to see the low foreshore. Dall (Dall and Baker 1883, p. 207 note, p. 205 note) denies that Cook saw Yakutat Bay at all and believes that it was Dry Bay with its rocky knob ["Bear Island"] that Cook named "Beering's Bay." If Cook's latitudes were accurate, as Wagner (1937, vol. 1, p. 186) believes, then this must have been the bay that Cook named, although Wagner himself thinks it was Yakutat Bay. The subsequent namings and renamings of Yakutat Bay and Dry Bay are indicated in due course. The following year, 1779, the Spanish, ignorant of Cook's discoveries, sent their Third Bucareli Expe- dition northward from San Bias.30 This expedition had been planned in 1776, with the hope of preceding Cook, but was so delayed that it did not reach the Northwest Coast until after the latter's death in Hawaii. It consisted of the frigate Nuestra Senora del Rosario, commonly known as La Princessa, under Lt. Ignacio Arteaga, accompanied by the frigate Virgen (or Nuestra Senora) de los Remedios, better known as La Favorita, under Lt. Francisco de la Bodega y Cuadra. An account of the voyage, written in Spanish by Ensign Antoine Maurelle (Francisco Antonio Mourelle), second captain on La Favorita, was obtained by La Perouse in Manila, 1787, and an extract from it was published in the latter's own report (1798, vol. 1, pp. 345-364; 1799, vol. 1, pp. 242-255 of the English trans- lation). According to T. C. Eussell (1920, p. ix) this excerpt and Maurelle's journal of 1775 as published by Barrington are both "filled with errors." This Spanish expedition spent from May 3 to July 1 in exploring Bucareli Bay, trying to avoid trouble with the natives, and trading with them. From the Tlingit there (Henya), they purchased three little boys and two little girls, and then sailed northward, closely following the shore. We cannot be sure whether they aaw Mount Saint Elias, but "on the 17th of July arrived at Cape San Elias, sailed around Kayak Island, found the shelter which it afforded and declared that this gulf (seno) was manifestly the exact locality which ao Summarized by Fleurieu, 1801, pp. LXXXIV-XC; Navarette in Galiano, 1802, pp. c-cn; Bancroft, 1884, vol. 1, pp. 172-173; 1886, pp. 217-221; Krause, 1956, pp. 17-18; Wagner, 1937, vol. 1, pp. 191-196. Although I have not consulted it, there is a MS. translation by G. F. Barwick in the Provincial Archives, Victoria, B.C., of Juan Francisco de la Bodega y Cuadra, "Expeditions in the years 1775 and 1779 towards the west coast of North America," from Annuario de la Direcci6n Hidrografia, Afio III, 1865. For the voyage of 1779, see also the translation by Walter Thornton, S.J. (1918). had been seen by Captain Bering" (Davidson, 1901 b, p. 43, from a Spanish MS. in his possession). Wagner (1937, vol. 1, p. 193) states that their "Cabo St. Elias" was actually Cape Suckling. Kayak Island was named "Carmen," and "Cuadra, in his journal, expressed the conviction that a large river must enter the sea between Carmen Island and the harbor of Santiago [probably Port Etches on Hinchinbrook Island in Prince William Sound], thus correctly locating Copper River, which both Cook and Vancouver failed to observe" (Bancroft, 1886, p. 219). While exploring the southern part of Kayak Island, the Spaniards encountered some natives who appeared friendly and generous, but whom their Tlingit "interpreters" (the children bought at Bucareli Bay) could not understand. These natives appear to have been Chugach, for it is they who persuaded the Spaniards to enter the port of "Santiago." Among the most disputed discoveries of this voyage was the "Pamplona Bank," a shoal reported to be about half a league in circumference and about 12 leagues from the coast, located, as nearly as dead reckoning could fix it, south of Cape Yakataga, where indeed a sub- merged ridge does exist. Could this have been above the surface in the 18th century? (see pp. 99-100). The expedition sailed as far as the entrance to Cook Inlet, but failed to encounter the Russian sloup Kliment, which was then off Kodiak Island. While Maurelle gives us good descriptions of the southern Tlingit and of the Chugacb, there is unfortunately nothing on the natives of Controller Bay. The importance of these explorations, and of those made by the Russians at this time, was not simply the extension of geographical knowledge, although the general trend of the whole coast from California to Icy Cape in Bering Sea and from Attu to Turnagain Arm was thereby established, and some areas (Cook Inlet, Prince William Sound, the west coast of Chichagof Island, Bucareli and Nootka Sounds) were fairly well explored. This is because the Spanish charts were not made public at that time, and the Russians established on Unalaska Island had no wish to exchange geograph- ical information. Rather, it was the prompt publication of Cook's third and last voyage, despite Admiralty efforts to keep the Spanish in ignorance by withholding publication, which made known to the world the rich sea otter herds encountered along the American main- land. (See Wickersham, 1927, pp. 343-349, for the many editions of Cook's voyages, including unauthorized private journals, official reports and translations, be- ginning with an anonymous publication in 1781. The last was attributed to both John Ledyard and John Rickman, but neither ascription seems likely to Wagner (1937, vol. 1, p. 189)). Furthermore, the actual wealth in furs brought home by these explorers stimulated 112 SMITHSONIAN CONTRIBUTIONS TO ANTHROPOLOGY VOLUME 7 further voyages by the Spanish, French, and British Governments, as well as private trading ventures in which the "Boston Men," newly freed from British restrictions, were to take part. The Russians, and es- pecially the company founded by Grigor Ivanovich Shelikhov and Ivan Golikov in 1783, hastened to extend their operations from Kodiak to the the mainland. The inevitable consequence of this was to be conflict be- tween the Kussians and the Kolosh or Tlingit, who could not be enslaved as readily as could the Aleut, or even the Koniag and Chugach. In 1784, Shelikhov es- tablished a post on Three Saints Bay, Kodiak, from which expeditions were dispatched to hunt and trade for furs, and to exact them from the natives as "tribute." Zaikov and Other Russian Expeditions to the Mainland (1783-88) Russian expansion, 1783-88, brought the Russians and their Aleut hunters into direct contact with the Chugach, Eyak, and Tlingit. According to Bancroft (1886, pp. 238-239): "the fierce Thlinkeets of Comp- troller Bay, Yakutat, and Ltua [Lituya]" so terrified the "docile Aleut hunters" that they were rendered "unfit even to follow their peaceful pursuits without an escort of four or five armed Russians to several hundred hunters." Of the earlier Russian expeditions, one of the most important was that of several private traders under the leadership of Potap Zaikov in 1783.31 This is because Zaikov gives us information on the Chugach and be- cause his subordinate, Nagaiev, discovered the mouth of the Copper River. This expedition to the mainland was directly in- spired by the information which Zaikov had obtained from Captain Cook about Prince William Sound. The Russians went in three ships, the Sv Alexei under Eustrate Delarov (the Greek merchant in charge of Shelikhov's post on Kodiak), the Sv Mikhail under Dimitri Polutov (who was to commit outrages upon the Chugach), and the Alexandr Nevski under Zaikov himself. On July 27, the ships entered a small cove on the north end of "Kaye's Island" which the Russians later learned, from natives they captured, was called "Kayak." These captives were apparently Chugach who came here to hunt but had no permanent homes 31 Tikhmenev, 1863, vol. 2, Supplement, pp. 1-8, contains an "Extract from the Journal of the Steersman Potap Zalkoff, kept on the ship 'St. Alexander Nevsky' in 1783" (Petrofi's translation in the Bancroft Library from which I quote by permission of the Director). This information is summarized in Bancroft, 1886, pp. 186-191. on the island (Bancroft, 1886, p. 187 and note 27). Among the items reported by Zaikov was that the Chugach appeared to have fragments of green bottle glass; "in their huts we also found earthen vessels dried in the fire, similar to common crockery made in the country of clay"; and that the Chugach also possessed "a blanket made of white wool, similar to sheep's wool, plaited and fringed . . . [and] orna- mented with yellow and coffee color" (Tikhmenev, 1863, vol. 2, Supplement, pp. 2, 5, 6). Nagaiev explored the delta of the Copper River, which was called "I-oullit" by the Chugach, who ap- parently used to ascend it for a journey of 20 days in their baidars (large skin boats), until they came to a place where many people lived and where they obtained native copper in trade or sometimes found pieces of it for themselves (ibid., p. 6). The Russians found no habitations on the mainland except one small settlement on the coast, discovered by Nagaiev, from which the occupants had fled. Nagaiev also met and traded with a large body of Indians, ap- parently Chugach from Nuchek, from whom he ob- tained many garments of sea otter fur. Although the natives "attacked" him, he was able to return with the four women and two children whom he had captured. It is probably safe to assume that the Russians had been the aggressors. [Meanwhile] "the Americans [Chugach] on the ship said that the Shugatch were engaged in a quarre or war, but that they traded with five tribes o Americans. 1st the Kaniags, i.e. the inhabitants of Kadiak Island, 2nd the Kinayans, living in the bays and coves situated between Kadiak Island and Shugatch Bay [Kenai Peninsula Eskimo, and Tanaina Athabaskans?], 3rd the I-oulits, living on the river described above, 4th with the people living east of Kadiak, on the American coast, called Lakhamites, 5th with the Kolosh tribes living east of them, who all go out with them and undertake large parties at various times of the year, in large bidars." [Tikh- menev, 1863, vol. 2, Supplement, p. 7.] Bancroft (1886, p. 191, note 32), who had access to Zaikov's MS. journal in the Sitka Archives, refers to the fourth group as "a tribe living on the coast of the mainland from Kyak Island eastward, called Lakhamit (the Aglegmutes). . . . " These are almost certainly Eyak-speakers, but although the name given above seems to be a corruption of Tlaxa (Yakutat Bay) with the Eskimo ending -miut (people of). Nor can we be sure whether the "Kolosh" were Tlingit already set- tled at Dry Bay or Yakutat, or were perhaps trading and raiding parties from farther away. According to Bancroft (ibid.), "Nagaief also correctly stated that the Yullits, or Copper River natives, lived only on the upper river, but traded copper and land-furs with the IN THREE PARTS THROUGH ALIEN EYES 113 coast people for seal-skins, dried fish, and oil." Prom Controller Bay the Russians returned to Prince William Sound, where they wandered about, pillaging and raping, until the Chugach, reinforced by the Tanaina from Cook Inlet and Koniag Eskimo from Kodiak, succeeded in killing Polutov and his party but spared Zaikov and Ms men. The rest of the Russians spent the winter in Zaikof Harbor on Montague Island, where nearly half of them died of scurvy. It is important to emphasize that although Zaikov's own journal, according to Bancroft (ibid.), accurately describes the country and its people, it is also said to furnish "proof positive that his visit to Prince William Sound in 1783 was the first made by him or any other Russian in a sea-going vessel." However, from Cook, and perhaps from the Spanish, the Chugach had ob- tained beads and other things. We should also remember that Cook himself found that the Chugach and Cook Inlet natives already in 1778 possessed blue glass beads and iron, and there is no reason to suppose that such articles, which could have been derived from Russian sources through intertribal trade, had not also passed to the Yakutat before any Europeans themselves reached that remote bay (de Laguna, 1956, pp. 60-61). Already, too, "an old bayonet and pieces of other iron implements" had been seen in the hands of the Queen Charlotte Islanders by Juan Perez in 1774, "which the pilot conjectured must have belonged to the boats' crews lost from Chirikof's vessel somewhere in these latitudes in 1741" (Bancroft, 1886, p. 196). Chirikov's boats had actually been lost so much farther north that this explanation is unlikely. Moreover, the friar Juan Crespi who was with P6rez noted that the Haida women wore bracelets and rings of iron as well as copper (cf. Rickard, 1939, pp. 25-26). The Sitka Tlingit of Puerto de los Remedios in 1775 seem to have had only "long and large lances pointed with flint" (Maurelle, 1920, p. 45), but at Bucareli Bay in 1799 the Tlingit not only received "glass beads, bits of old iron, etc." from the Spaniards in return for furs (Maurelle in LaPerouse, 1799, vol. 1, p. 245), but already were armed with "lances, four yards long, headed with iron; knives of the same metal, longer than an European bayonet, but not common among them" although they still used stone adzes (ibid., p. 247). Bodega here also saw bracelets of copper and iron. Rickard (1939) has discussed at length such iron and copper objects among the Indians of the Northwest Coast, arguing that be- cause they had already found and used iron in drift- wood, they were acquainted with its usefulness and hence eager to obtain it in trade. I have also interpreted as drift iron the iron found at the site on Knight Island in Yakutat Bay, especially in view of native traditions about finding and shaping such iron (see pp. 233, 256; de Laguna et al., 1964, pp. 88-90). 260-517?72?TOI. VII, pt. 1 10 Of greater ethnological interest to us than the explorations of Zaikov and Nagaiev in 1783-84 was the expedition to Yakutat and Lituya Bays of Ismailov and Bocharov in 1788, although they had been pre- ceded by LaPerouse (1786), Dixon (1787), and Colnett (1788). Davidson (1904, p. 48) makes the statement that: "We may reasonably assume that the Russian fur hunters had been in Yakutat even before Cook's time," (i.e. 1778), yet I can find no evidence to support this assumption, nor even that they had come " . . . certainly before the advent of La P&rouse." The pres- ence of iron and glass beads in the hands of the natives of Lituya Bay in 1786 (LaPerouse, 1799, vol. 1, pp. 369-370), and of iron at Yakutat Bay in 1787 (Beres- ford, 1789, p. 168), may mean no more than that these were articles of Russian origin handled in that inter- tribal trade which we know existed along the coast, as indeed LaPerouse himself concluded (cf. also Ban- croft, 1886, pp. 239-240). Beresford (1789, p. 240), who visited Yakutat Bay, Sitka Sound and other places on the Northwest Coast as Dixon's supercargo in 1787, observed with respect to beads: "These ornaments were undoubtedly introduced here [Cook Inlet and Prince William Sound] by the Russians, who have constantly traded with these people for many years past, and beads have been generally used in barter, so that if we make this a rule for judging how far the Russians have had a direct intercourse on the coast, it will appear that they have not been to the Eastward of Cape Hinchinbrook: and I think this conjecture far from improbable." Although Beresford was not aware that beads had been seen in Lituya Bay, his estimate of Russian travel seems reasonable. Dall and Baker (1883, p. 202), however, state unequivocally: "The bay [Lituya] had been visited by Russian hunting parties before LaPerouse, who found the frame of one of their baidars there (although he did not recognize the fact). . . ." This is probably based upon Tebenkov (1852; quoted by Davidson, 1904, p. 58), for he had written: "The bay had been visited by the Russian American ships before La- Perouse; but the entrance was too dangerous for their vessels, and no sea otter visited the bay. Moreover, it is destitute of fish, except for the halibut in spring and summer." Although this is hardly an accurate description of Lituya Bay (pp. 93-95), and the Russian American Company was not founded until 1799, it is, of course, quite possible that a Russian ship did stand outside the entrance to the bay, as stated in Yakutat native tradition (pp. 258-259). Yet it is more reasonable to agree with Bancroft (1886, p. 258 note 5) that "We have no evidence of the advance of Ismailof's boats to 114 SMITHSONIAN CONTRIBUTIONS TO ANTHROPOLOGY VOLUME 7 the point [Lituya Bay] previous to the arrival of the French frigates [of LaPerouse]. The sealskin covering of a large canoe or bidar discovered here would point to visits of Aglegmutes [Eyak] or Chugatsches." Or, we might add, "of Yakutat natives," since they also claim to have had skin boats. In fact, we simply do not know whether the various Russian traders and hunters were active between 1784 and 1788 along the Gulf of Alaska, even though there are certain suggestive passages in Shelikhov's report of his travels, 1783-87,32 which are worth consideration. Thus Shelikhov himself wrote, under the date of March 7, 1786: "As I was now disposing all things for my de- parture [from Kodiak to Siberia], for the further prosecution of the discoveries which were not completed the foregoing year, I sent five Russians to build a fortress at Cape St. Elias, with a view as well to assist them in this undertaking as to con- ciliate the inhabitants of the districts stretching from that point to the 47th degree of latitude, I dispatched with them a thousand men, consisting of Konaghi natives of Kuktak [Kodiak], and other islands, together with seventy inhabitants of the Fox Islands [Aleutians], to raise crosses on the coasts, and to bury in the earth pot-sherd, the bark of birch tree, and coals [i.e., to take possession of the land]." [Coxe, 1803, pp. 288-289.] On May 19, Shelikhov learned that "those who had sailed to Cape St. Elias began their work, and left a party to finish the fort, which I ordered to be con- structed in that place" (ibid., pp. 289-290). During this period, the Russians were chiefly con- cerned with establishing or consolidating positions on Afognak and Shuyak Islands in the Kodiak group, and on Cook Inlet ("Bay of Kinaigisk"), against active native opposition, and while Shelikhov certainly wanted explorations to be made "from the 60th to the 40th degree of north latitude" (ibid., p. 291), because he left orders to that effect, it is highly improbable that the "Cape St. Elias" to which he refers was as far away as Kayak Island. In fact, as Coxe (ibid., p. 304 note) points out, Shelikhov referred to the south point of Sukha (Montague Island in Prince William Sound) as Bering's "Cape St. Elias." LaPerouse (1786) In 1785 the French government dispatched Com- modore Jean Francois de Galaup, Comte de LaPerouse on a scientific voyage around the world in the frigate L'Astrolabe, accompanied by La Boussole under Vis- comte de Langle.33 Chinard (1937, p. xi, my transla- tion) observes that ". . . one can boldly affirm that no other scientific expedition of the eighteenth century had been prepared with more care and with a more scrupulous method: the instructions given to Laperouse could and should be the object of a separate study." Louis XVI was, for example, particularly concerned that relations with any natives encountered should be friendly and peaceful. Questionnaires prepared by various specialists and by the scientific academies in- cluded anthropological and ethnological topics, as well as those pertaining to other branches of natural history and science. These questionnaires and instructions (1784-85) not only indicate clearly the extent of knowl- edge and the scientific problems that predominated on the eve of the French Revolution, but indicate that this voyage "deserves to mark a date in the annals of geography and science" (Chinard, 1937, p. xn, my translation). These documents also seem to be pre- cursors to those which President Jefferson was to give about 30 years later to Captains Meriwether Lewis and William Clark. In addition, LaPerouse's expedition included some 17 engineers, scientists, and artists. All of these circumstances make his reports of much value to us, and they were fortunately sent back to France before the tragic disappearance of the expedition in the South Pacific in 1788. Early in the morning of June 23, 1786, LaPerouse's ships were approaching the American shore, and "As the mist cleared away, a long chain of mountains covered with snow burst at once upon our sight. . . . We distinguished in these the Mount St. Elias of Behring, with it's summit rising above the clouds." (LaPerouse, 1799, vol. 1, p. 358.) Below was apparently the outwash plain near Icy Bay or the moraine-covered end of the Malaspina Glacier. The ships seem to have made landfall somewhere between Icy Bay and Yakutat ? Pallas, 1793, vol. 6, pp. 165-204; Coxe, 1803, pp. 269-301. For an account of the publication of these "Travels," see Okun, 1951, ch. 2, note 2. 33 Quotations from LaPerouse's account are taken from the English translation (1799), for while I have consulted the original French edition, edited by Milet-Mureau (1798), and that edited by Chinard (1937), I have felt that a contemporary translation of an 18th-century French naval officer's report would be more accurate than my own. Summaries of the voyage may be found in Fleurieu, 1801, vol. 1, pp. CII-CXVI; Krause, 1956, pp. 17-18; Russell, 1891 b, pp. 58-60. There are a number of careless inaccuracies in Bancroft, 1886, pp. 255-259. IN THREE PARTS THROUGH ALIEN EYES 115 Bay, at "Pointe de La Boussole," M and anchored off the mouth of Yakutat Bay on the 27th. A boat from each ship was sent in to look for an anchorage, but found none; nor were any natives encountered. Ap- parently it was the northwestern shore of the bay near Cape Manby which was explored, for this was found exposed to winds from the southsouthwest to eastsoutheast, and a landing was made with difficulty. LaP6rouse named Yakutat Bay "Baie de Monti" after the officer who commanded the landing party. Follow- ing the usage of Galiano (1802), the name is now applied to the sheltered arm leading in on the south- eastern part of the bay, which unfortunately de Monti did not discover. The ships again followed the coast toward the south- east, and after attempting to determine the exact position and height of Mount Saint Elias, came to the mouth of Dry Bay, which LaPe"rouse (1799, vol. 1, p. 362) at first believed was "the bay to which captain Cook gave the name of Behring." It was evident, however, that they were off the mouth of a river of considerable size, the two large entrances to which were obstructed by sandbars "on which the sea broke with such violence, that it was impossible for our boats to get near. Mr de Clonard spent five or six hours to no purpose in search of an entrance; but he saw smoke, a proof that the country is inhabited" (ibid., p. 363). A large basin or lagoon was seen inside, but no native huts or canoes. LaP^rouse thought that this might have been the place where Bering [sic; read Chirikov] tried to land and lost his boats in the rough water, and so named the Alsek River "Riviere de Bering," confident that no "Bering's Bay" existed. On July 1 and 2, Cape Fairweather and Mount Fairweather ("Beautemps") were passed and the ships came to "what appeared to be a very fine bay" (ibid., p. 364), that is, Lituya Bay, to which LaP6rouse gave the name "Port des Francais." Three small boats, sent to explore the bay, entered and left in safety, but when the ships tried to follow, the ebb tide was so strong that they could make no headway against it. The following morning, July 3, the ships shot into the bay on the end of the flood tide, but as LaP?rouse observed: "During the thirty years that I have followed the sea I never saw two vessels so near being lost" (ibid., p. 367). A good anchorage was eventually found on the western shore, farther from the dangerous entrance, and later the ships moved behind the island in the middle of the bay. 31 Dall and Baker (1883, p. 206, note) identify this as Point Manby, but it seems to be too far west. I t may be a point just west of Sitkagi Bluffs, or even what then corresponded to Point Riou at Icy Bay. From July 3 to 30, when the vessels sailed for Nootka Sound and California, explorations were made of Lituya Bay and the neighborhood, and, as is well known, on July 13 LaPerouse had the misfortunate to lose the two pinnaces of his frigates, with their whole complement of 21 officers and men, in the terrible tidal currents at the mouth of the bay. The second pinnace had gone to attempt the rescue of the first; the jollyboat, which had also been swept through by the ebb, escaped the breakers and was able to reenter the bay when the tide turned. In memory of this loss, LaPerouse erected a wooden monument on the south point of the island in the bay, which he named in consequence "Isle du Cenotaphe," and buried an account of the tragedy in a bottle at the foot of the monument. Of chief interest to us are the observations made by LaPerouse on the Indians of Lituya Bay; his account should be compared with the Indian tradition of his visit as recorded by Emmons (1911) near Juneau in 1886. What may be a very abbreviated version of the same story was heard at Yakutat in 1949 (pp. 258-259). We may anticipate by stating that the Indians of Lituya Bay were Tlingit. Certainly the words for num- bers are Tlingit, as are those for 'labret' kentaga (?ent'a?a); 'face' kaaga (q& ya, 'someone's face'); 'seal's tooth' or 'teeth,' without distinction between singular and plural, kaourr6 (qa 'uxu, 'someone's tooth,' not "seal's tooth"); 'chief (not "friend") alcaou ('anqawu; for n is often pronounced like 1); 'hair of the head' khlrleies (xis, 'snarls'). Yet 'sea otter' skecter is cer- tainly not very similar to the Tlingit yuxt6 or ylxwtc (LaPerouse, 1799, vol. 1, pp. 409-411). However, there is nothing in the customs or objects of material culture observed which was not Tlingit. Moreover, according to Emmon's informant, LaPerouse's arrival was wit- nessed by a party of Hoonah Tl'uknaxAdi from Grouse Fort in Icy Straits, and parties from Hoonah and Chilkat used to stop at Lituya Bay on their way to Yakutat to trade for copper (Emmons, 1911, p. 297). The first dealings with the Indians seem to have been most amicable, for while still outside the mouth of the bay: "We soon perceived some savages, who made signs of friendship, by displaying and waving white man- tles, and different skins. Several canoes of these Indians were fishing in the bay, where the water was as smooth as in a basin. . . . [LaPerouse, 1799, vol. 1, p. 365.] "During our forced stay at the entrance of the bay [before the anchorage was shifted to Cenotaph Island, July 4], we had been continually surrounded with the canoes of the savages, who offered us fish, skins of otters and other animals, and different little articles of their dress, in exchange for our iron. 116 SMITHSONIAN CONTRIBUTIONS TO ANTHROPOLOGY VOLUME 7 To our great surprise they appeared well accustomed to traffic, and bargained with as much skill as any tradesman of Europe. Of all our articles of trade, they appeared to have no great desire for any thing but iron: they accepted indeed a few beads [rassades]; but these served rather to conclude a bargain, than to form the basis of it. We at length prevailed on them to take pewter pots and plates: yet these had only a transient success, iron prevailing over every thing. They were not unacquainted with this metal. Every one had a dagger of it suspended from the neck, not unlike the criss of the Malays, except that the handle was different, being nothing more than an elongation of the blade, rounded, and without any edge. This weapon had a sheath of tanned leather, and appeared to be their most valuable moveable. As we examined these daggers very attentively, they informed us by signs, that they made use of them only against the bears and other wild beasts. [Evidently the Indians were trying to assure the French that their intentions were friendly.] Some were of copper, but they did not appear to give a preference to these. This metal is pretty common among them: they use it chiefly for collars, brace- lets, and various other ornaments; and they also point their arrows with it." [Ibid., p. 369.] LaPerouse speculates correctly that the Indians might have obtained and shaped native copper, but that it was highly unlikely they had access to virgin iron, and they certainly could not smelt iron ore. He believed that they could forge it, and observed that their iron was "as soft and as easy to cut as lead" (ibid., p. 370). He also points out that "the day of our arrival we saw necklaces of beads, and some little articles of brass . . ." which the Indians could not have made (ibid.). After considering the possibility that the iron, copper, and brass might have come from American traders, Hudson's Bay Company agents, or from the Spanish, LaPe'rouse concludes that they were most probably of Kussian origin. It does not occur to him that the iron might have come from drift logs or wreckage. "Gold is not an object of more eager desire in Europe, than iron is in this part of America, which is another proof of it's scarcity. Every man, it is true, has a little in his possession; but they are so covetous of it, that they leave no means untried to obtain it." [Ibid., p. 370.] The behavior of the natives, especially at first, might give some indication as to whether they were familiar with Whites. "On the day of our arrival, we were visited by the chief of the principal village" (ibid.). This was probably the village with cemetery or "morai" on the southeast shore of the bay, between Harbor Point and the hills called The Paps. LaPeYouse's chart indicates another village on the opposite shore, just inside La Chaus6e Spit, where a trail ("Chemain de la Pecheet du Morai") ran northwestward just behind the rocky beach to the lagoon at the mouth of Huagin Eiver ("Kiviere aux Salmons"), where there was another settlement. Farther up the northwestern side of the bay, just beyond the first hill, was a fourth village at the mouth of a stream. The chief seems to have come aboard with the usual ceremony. "Before he came on board, he appeared to address a prayer to the sun. He then made a long harangue, which was concluded by a kind of song, by no means disagreeable, and greatly resembling the plain chaunt [plein-chanf\ of our churches. The Indians in his canoe accompanied him, repeating the same air in chorus. After this ceremony, they almost all came on board, and danced for an hour to the music of their own voices, in which they are very exact. [This seems to have been the usual Tlingit method of greeting strangers, or at least Europeans, with whom they wished to trade (pp. 141, 142, 347).] I gave the chief several presents, which made him so very troublesome, that he daily spent five or six hours on board; and I was obliged to repeat them very frequently, or he would go away discontented, and with an air of threat, which however was not very formidable." [Ibid.] One wonders whether it was not the usual expectation that when one chief visited another he should not be permitted to return home without a gift, as at a potlatch. We can see that neither the French nor the Indians appeared to be afraid of each other and that no demand was made on either side for the exchange of hostages. In this connection we should note that the Spanish in Bucareli Bay in 1779 did not find it necessary to exchange hostages in order to trade, although they did keep their arms by them, and shut their eyes to petty thefts. However, when some valuable objects were taken, they would temporarily seize "either some canoe or some person of distinction until the stolen object was returned" (Maurelle in LaPe'rouse, 1799, vol. 1, p. 250). In 1787 Dixon was able to trade at Yakutat and Sitka without exchanging hostages; nor did Colnett have to resort to this device at Yakutat the following year. The exchange of hostages is a matter of some in- terest, since Bancroft (1886, p. 236) argues that? "The custom of interchanging hostages while engaged in traffic was carried eastward by the Eussians and forced upon the English, Americans, and Spaniards long after the entire submission of Aleuts, Kenai, and Chugatsches had obviated the IN THREE PARTS THROUGH ALIEN EYES 117 necessity of such a course in the west. Portlock was compelled to conform to the custom at various places before he could obtain any trade, but as a rule four or five natives were demanded for one of two sailors from the ship." Yet when Portlock (1789, pp. 261, 266, 269, 284-286) in August 1787 had to yield to the requests of the Tlingit at Portlock Harbor (Chichagof Island) and Sitka to send a man ashore, this seems to have been largely so that the Indians, often including the chief himself, and as many volunteers as Portlock would accept, could spend the night on board ship, where they were well entertained. Nevertheless, Portlock found that on a few occasions when he refused to exchange hostages the natives became alarmed and would not approach the ships. Still, the pleasure with which they received the sailor, usually Joseph Woodcock, the fond- ness which they seemed to have for him, and their consideration of his wants do not suggest the kidnap- blackmail tactics of the Eussians. However, the Tlingit of Portlock Harbor had abeady been to Prince William Sound, where they had fought the Chugach (ibid., p. 260), and may have learned to exchange hostages there. If the exchange of hostages had indeed been adopted by the Tlingit from the Russians or from the Chugach, this must have been because it resembled the Tlingits' own aboriginal custom of exchanging hostage-ambassa- dors in peace-making ceremonies between Tlingit sibs (see p. 150), and there is no reason to suppose that this did not antedate Russian influence. Indeed, Wood- cock was evidently called 'deer' ("cow-aka-na?hostage or friendship" [kuwakan], ibid., p. 293), treated with the ceremonious behavior accorded to such officials, and also expected to observe their special taboos (i.e., against whistling), although Portlock thought that his hosts were afraid that his whistling was a signal for his friends to take him away (ibid., p. 285). Although Tlingit behavior toward the first European navigators seems to have varied between patterns sug- gestive of ceremonious trade and those based upon peace making, all evidence would tend to confirm LaP6rouse's statement that: "The port was never seen by any navigator" (1799, vol. 1, p. 366), or at least the conclusion that no European vessel had previously entered it. As soon as the French ships were anchored by Cenotaph Island they were visited by all the natives in the bay. Here the French had set up their observatory for checking their position and the two chronometers (which, incidentally, had been used by Captain Cook and had been presented by the British Government). Here also, the saibnakers, smith, and coopers were working. These activities, as well as the tools and equip- ment spread about, must have drawn the Indians like flies to honey. They came with canoe loads of sea otter furs, which were traded for hatchets, adzes, and bars of iron. (These skins were later sold in Macao, China, and the entire proceeds distributed among the enlisted men on the two frigates, as we learn from a letter of LaP6rouse, quoted by Fleurieu, 1801, p. cxm note, p. cix.) Salmon were first traded for pieces of old iron hoops, but soon the natives "would not part with this fish unless for nails, or small implements of iron" (LaPerouse, 1799, vol. 1, p. 371). Unfortunately, the observatory and tents on the island were not safe from pillage. "As all the Indian villages were on the main-land, we flattered ourselves, that we should be in security on the island, but we were soon convinced of our mistake. Experience had already taught us, that the Indians were great thieves; but we did not suspect them of sufficient activity and perseverance, to carry into execution difficult and tedious schemes. In a short time we learned to know them better. They spent the night in watching for favourable oppor- tunities to rob us: but we kept a strict watch on board our vessels, and they were seldom able to get the better of our vigilance. I had established also the Spartan law: the person robbed was punished; and if the thief received no applause, at least we reclaimed nothing, to avoid all occasion of quarrel, which might have led to fatal consequences. That this extreme mildness rendered them insolent I will not disavow: but I endeavoured to convince them of the supe- riority of our arms; for which purpose I fired a cannon, to show them, that I could reach them at a distance, and pierced with a musket-ball, in presence of a great number of Indians, several doubles of a cuirass [wooden armor] they had sold us, after they had informed us by signs that it was impenetrable to arrows or poignards. Our fowlers, too, who were good marksmen, killed birds over their heads. I am well assured, that they never thought of inspiring us with fear; but their conduct convinced me, that they believed our forbearance inexhaustible. In a very little time they obliged me to remove the establishment on the island. They landed upon it in the night, on the side next the offing; crossed a very thick wood, which it was impossible for us to pene- trate in the day; and creeping on their bellies like snakes, almost without stirring a leaf, they contrived to steal some of our effects, in spite of our sentries. [This is obviously deduction, since the maneuvers of the natives were not observed.] They even had the address to enter by night into the tent where MeS8rs de Lauriston and Darbaud, who were on guard at the observatory, slept; and took away a silver- mounted musket, and the clothes of the two officers, which they had taken the precaution to place under their pillow, without being perceived by a guard of w - \ . ; ..*;?.? ?>? . da Caenotapte MAP 18.?Lituya Bay aa seen by LaPerouse. "Part of the Plan du Port des Francais (Lituya Bay); engraved map 19 in the LaPerouse atlas, Paris, 1797." Figure 5 in Donald J. Orth's "Dictionary of Alaska Place Names," Geological Survey Professional Paper No. 567 dated 1967. In his bibliography, Orth refers both to the English 2-volume edition of 1799 and atlas folio, and to the French edition of i volumes with atlas folio. This detail was evidently from the French atlas. IN THREE PARTS THROUGH ALIEN EYES 119 twelve men, or even awakening the officers. This theft would have given us little uneasiness[!], but for the loss of the original paper, containing all our astronomical observations since our arrival at Port des Francais. "These circumstances were no impediment to our taking in wood and water. All our officers were continually on duty with the boats, at the head of the different working parties, which we were obliged to send ashore. Their presence, and the order they maintained, were checks upon the savages." [Ibid., pp. 372-373.] As can be seen from the above, although the Indians seemed to feel free to pilfer, they were as careful as the French to avoid any open aggression. Why then did they steal? Was it simply the uncontrollable reaction to the sight of undreamed of riches, or was it perhaps an attempt to get restitution for something of which they felt they had been legally deprived? Or, was it a combination of motives? The next passage suggests an answer. "The day after this excursion [to the head of the bay], the chief came on board better attended, and more ornamented, than usual. After many songs and dances, he offered to sell me the island, on which our observatory was erected; tacitly reserving, no doubt, to himself and the other Indians, the right of robbing us upon it. It was more than questionable, whether this chief were proprietor of a single foot of land: the government of these people is of such a nature, that the country must belong to the whole society; yet, as many of the savages were witnesses to the bargain, I had a right to suppose that it was sanctioned by their assent; and accordingly I ac- cepted the offer of the chief, sufficiently aware, however, that many tribunals would find a flaw in the contract, if ever the nation should think proper to litigate our title, for we could bring no proof, that the witnesses were it's representatives, or the chief the actual proprietor of the soil. Be this as it might, I gave him several yards of red cloth, hatchets, adzes, bar iron, and nails, and made presents to all his attendants. The bargain being thus concluded, and the purchase money paid, I sent to take possession of the island with the usual formalities, and buried at the foot of a rock several bronze metals, which had been struck before our departure from France, with a bottle containing an inscription recording our claim." [Ibid., p. 375.] While LaPe'rouse doubts the legality of this trans- action and hesitates to believe that the Tlingit were sophisticated enough to treat real estate as an alienable commodity, we now know that land belonged to sibs (or their segments) for whom the chief acted as ad- ministrator; that with the consent of the group he could give away territorial rights, as at Angoon (Gar- field, 1947, p. 441; de Laguna, 1960, pp. 133-134) and on the Gulf of Alaska (see p. 254), or sell them. Indeed, it was through purchase that the Kwack- qwan and the Drum House Teqwedi acquired their lands in the Yakutat area (see also the version recorded by Swanton, 1909, Tale 105, p. 356; and pp. 232, 252). "Land" for the Tlingit included, of course, not simply the actual land, but offshore waters, and the rights to gather wild products (cf. Niblack, 1890, p. 335). What is significant about the Angoon and Yakutat transactions is that these transfers of territorial rights were made in order to resolve conflicts. This is partic- ularly clear in the purchases of Knight Island and Humpback Creek in Yakutat Bay, which were under- taken expressly to prevent further trouble between the owners and the Kwaclqwan who had been picking strawberries and catching fish in places where they were tresspassing without invitation. According to the Tlingit, rights to exclusive use extended over many resources that the European would consider free: fresh water, driftwood, marine mammals and fish, land game, and wild plants, all of which LaPe'rouse's men were taking (LaPerouse, 1799, vol. 1, pp. 371, 376, 394- 395). We should also note how the Sitka Tlingit of "Puerto de los Remedios" bitterly resented the Spanish helping themselves to fresh water, wood, and fish; at first insisting on payment for this, then retiring when they could not frighten the Spaniards (Maurelle, 1920, pp. 45-46). I suggest, therefore, that the chief who sold Cenotaph Island to LaPe'rouse was acting for the Tl'trknaxAdi (or DAqdentan, or XafikA'ayi?however the sib that owned Lituya Bay was then called), and that this was an attempt to regularize and settle peacefully an unpleasant and potentially dangerous situation. The sale would also serve as payment for what the French had already taken illegally. Of course, it is practically certain that not all the Indian men in Lituya Bay belonged to the same sib (see the list of resident sibs on pp. 20, 218). Others, therefore, may have felt that they had rights which also had been invaded, and for which due compensation had not been made. Or, some individuals may have felt, anyway, that to rob the French was fair sport. Of course, to get the better of the foreignor (gunana) in sharp trade was simply ordinary Tlingit business practice, and was a somewhat different matter. There is no doubt that the Indians regarded the French as "suckers." The Tlingit methods of trading with the Dry Bay people are illustrated in a myth recorded by Swanton (1909, Tale 32, p. 160). In this, the Tl'irknaxAdi simply took an Athabaskan and announced that he was to be a friend and trade partner. "They would take away a person's goods and then give him just what 120 SMITHSONIAN CONTRIBUTIONS TO ANTHROPOLOGY VOLUME 7 they wanted to. The Athabascans were foolish enough to allow it." This high-handed procedure should also be considered in connection with pilfering from the French. The day after the sale of the island, the two boats were lost at the entrance to the bay. "Some canoes of the savages came now to inform us of the fatal accident. These rude unpolished men expressed by signs, that they had seen both our boats sink, and that to render them assistance was utterly impossible. We loaded them with presents; and endeavoured to make them understand, that all our wealth would not have been too ample a compensation for him who had saved a single man. "Nothing could be more powerful in awakening their humanity. They hastened to the sea-shore, and spread themselves over both sides of the bay." Yet when LaPerouse sent his own parties also to search the shores, he still felt it necessary to retain on board "a sufficient number of men to have nothing to fear from the savages, against whom prudence required us to be constantly on our guard." (LaPerouse, 1799, vol. 1, p. 380.) According to M. Boutin (the officer whose jollyboat was caught by the tide but escaped), as his craft was approaching the eastern side of the entrance, looking for survivors, he saw some men on shore "making signals by waving their cloaks" (ibid., p. 383). It is not clear whether these Indians were warning the boat away from the still dangerous tidal currents or were trying to explain that the other boats were lost without survivors. At any event, when the jollyboat was able to reenter Lituya Bay at slack tide, the Indians "made signs, that they had seen two boats overset . . ." (ibid., p. 384). In order to make sure that no survivors were left behind, although all hope had been abandoned, La- Perouse moved the ships to an anchorage closer to the entrance, on the western side of the bay, apparently opposite the inner of the two villages on that side. Here they remained for about 2 weeks before sailing on July 30. "Our stay at the entrance of the bay procured us much information respecting the manners and cus- toms of the savages, which it would have been im- possible for us to have acquired at the other anchor- age. Oui vessels were moored near their villages, we visited them several times a day, and every day we had reason to complain of them, though our conduct towards them continued uniformly the same, and we never ceased to give them proofs of gentleness and good-will." [Ibid., p. 388.] It should be remembered that LaPerouse had paid nothing for rights in this part of the bay. On July 22, the Indians brought fragments of one of the lost boats which they had found on the eastern shore, "and informed us by signs, that they had in- terred the body of one of our unfortunate companions on the strand, where it had been thrown up by the waves" (ibid.). LaPerouse almost certainly misunder- stood. The Tlingit would never have buried a corpse, and would probably not even have cremated it unless ceremoniously requested to do so. Since such funeral services for their own dead were performed by members of the opposite moiety from the deceased, it is hard to see how the Indians in the 18th century could have worked out such a fictitious relationship with the French. However, three French officers set off for the sup- posed grave with the Indians "whom we had loaded with presents." They walked for 7 or 8 miles over stones, probably along the boulder-strewn shore southeast of the bay, "while every half hour the guides demanded a fresh payment, or refused to proceed; and at length they stole into the wood, and made their escape. The officers discovered too late, that their report was a mere trick, framed to obtain presents" (ibid., p. 389). So concludes LaPerouse. But while there is no ques- tion but that the Indians were exploiting the situation to their own advantage, how did they view it, and what was their justification? In the first place, according to LaPerouse himself, the natives of Lituya Bay wore no moccasins. "Though they go barefoot the soles of their feet are not callous, and they cannot walk over stones" (ibid., p. 400). It is no wonder that they kept demanding extra compensa- tion during a walk of 7 or 8 miles over rough boulders. Their feet must have been very painful when they finally slipped into the forest with its soft mossy carpet. It is also probable that the Indians had been fearful of touching the body, had left it on the beach, and then had run away when they discovered that the tide had claimed it. It must be remembered that the Tlingit believe that those who drown turn into the dread Land Otter Men, monsters that lurk to kidnap those lost in the woods or in peril on the water, in order to transform them into animals like themselves (p. 744). In addition, such disasters as shipwreck, especially of the magnitude as that suffered by the French, are attributed by the Tlingit to supernatural causes. The Tlingit themselves have also lost canoes at Lituya Bay (pp. 273-276), and Emmons, as we have seen (p. 94), reports that such wrecks are believed due to the male- volence of the Spirit of Lituya Bay, Qa Li-tu'a (Man of Lituya) who lives in its depths and resents trespass. All so drowned are supposed to become his slaves, assuming the form of bears. To the fear of the Land Otter Men, should we not add a healthy awe of the Lituya Bay Spirit and his slaves, and an understandable reluctance to interfere with one of his victims? IN THREE PARTS THROUGH ALIEN EYES 121 But LaPerouse, by now embittered by the tragedy, is in no mood to forgive. "We were not surprised at the account they gave us of the stratagem of the savages, who in knavery and theft were unparalleled" (La Perouse, 1799, vol. 1, p. 389). It was while searching the beach for wreckage that the French discovered the fishing village at the salmon stream (Huagin River), and also the cemetery or "morai," for which the Polynesian term was used, "because it is more suitable than tomb [tombeau] to convey the idea of an exposure to the open air" (ibid., p. 389 note). The French investigated the contents (see p. 539), but "replaced everything with scrupulous exactness, add- ing presents or iron instruments and beads. The savages, who witnessed this visit, showed a little uneasiness; but they did not fail to take away the presents left by our travellers without delay. Some others of us, going to the place the next day out of curiosity, found only the ashes and the head. They placed there some fresh presents, which experienced the same fate as those of the preceding day. I am convinced that the Indians would have been pleased, had we repeated our visits several times a day." But LaPerouse in the next sentence states that "they allowed us, though with a little repugnance, to visit their tombs," so these investigations evidently were not welcome (ibid., p. 390). The behavior of the French in putting something with the remains of the dead, though done openly, was in fact exactly what Tlingit witches are supposed to do in secret (see pp. 730-732), so that the reason why the natives removed the presents is not as obvious as LaPerouse assumed. The Indians, however, would not let the French approach their huts, "till they had sent away their wives, who are the most disgusting beings in the universe" (ibid.). "These women, the most disgusting in the world, covered with stinking hides, often not even tanned, were still capable of exciting desire in the breasts of some persons, not of the most delicate taste. At first they raised difficulties, and declared, by signs, that they should hazard the loss of their lives: but when they were overcome by presents, they wished the sun to be witness of their actions, and refused to retire into the woods" (ibid., pp. 403-404). One wonders whether it was only slave women who had intercourse with the French, as was the case with Malaspina's men at Yakutat (see p. 145). LaPerouse continues to give a severe and unfavorable account of the natives at Lituya Bay. As the first French editor, Milet-Mureau observes (1799, vol. 1, p. 399 n.): "In the lines of this picture the reader will trace the painful impression of the recent loss, which was related in the preceding chapter." And Chinard, his modern editor (1937, p. 41, n. 4, my translation), also complains, after consulting anthropological au- thorities on the Tlingit: "On the whole, Laperouse agrees with other voyagers. It seems, however, that he has pushed his painting far towards the black." Indeed, he pictures the Indians as predators, like the wolf and the tiger, "at war with every animal," and inhabiting the land "only to extirpate every thing that lives and moves upon it" (1799, vol. 1, p. 396). They are not at all as the fireside philosopher had pictured man close to the state of nature?who retains his natural goodness. Rather, they are "savage, deceitful, and malicious," as LaPerouse has learned from "melan- choly experience." Yet he has refrained from using force "to re pell the injustice of these savages, and teach them, that there is a law of nations, which is never to be violated with impunity" (ibid., p. 398). Then follows a catalog of their shortcomings: "Some of the Indians were continually about our ships in their canoes, and spent three or four hours before they began to barter a little fish, or two or three otter-skins, taking every opportunity to rob us, catching at every bit of iron that could easily be carried off, and examining particularly in what way they could deceive our vigilance during the night. I made the principal persons come on board my vessel, and loaded them with presents; yet these very men, whom I so particularly distinguished, never disdained to steal a nail or an old pair of breeches. Whenever they assumed a smiling and cheerful air, I was sure they had stolen something, though I very often pretended not to see it. "I had particularly recommended caressing the children, and gratifying them with little presents. The parents were insensible to this mark of kindness, which I thought must be felt in every country: the only reflection it excited hi their minds was, that, by asking us to accompany then1 children, they would have an opportunity of robbing us; and for my own information I several times pro- cured myself the pleasure of seeing the father avail himself of the moment when our attention appeared most engaged by his child, to hide under his garment of skin whatever was within his reach. "I sometimes assumed an appearance of wishing for trifles of little value belonging to Indians whom I had just loaded with presents; but I always made this trial of their generosity in vain." [Ibid., p. 398.] "We never landed except in force, and armed. They greatly dreaded our muskets, and eight or ten Europeans together were sufficient to awe a whole village. Our two surgeons being so imprudent as to go a shooting alone were attacked. The Indians endeavoured to snatch their fowling-pieces from them, but could not succeeed: two men being suffi- 122 SMITHSONIAN CONTRIBUTIONS TO ANTHROPOLOGY VOLUME 7 ciently formidable to them, to make them retire. The same thing happened to Mr de Lesseps, the young Russian interpreter; but fortunately the crew of one of our boats came to his assistance. These acts of hostility appeared to them so natural, that they did not desist from coming on board, and never suspected the possibility of our making re- prisals." [Ibid., p. 399.] [Nor are the natives more amiable in their dealings with each other:] "Their arts are considerably advanced, and their civilization in this respect has made great progress; but in every thing that polishes and softens the ferocity of manners, they are yet in their infancy. The manner in which they live, excluding every kind of subordination, renders them continually agitated by vengeance or fear. Choleric and prompt to take offence, I have seen them continually with the poignard unsheathed against each other. Exposed to perish with hunger in the winter, when the chace cannot be very productive, they live in the summer in the greatest abundance, as they can catch more fish in an hour than is sufficient for their family. The rest of the day they remain idle, spending it in gaming, of which they are as passionately fond as some of the inhabitants of our large cities. This is the grand source of their quarrels: and I do not hesitate to pronounce, that this tribe would be completely exterminated, if the use of any intoxicating liquor were added to these destructive vices." [Ibid., p. 397.] "I will admit, if you please, that it is impossible for a society to exist without some virtues; but I am forced to confess, that here I could not perceive any. Always quarreling among themselves, indif- ferent to their children, absolute tyrants to their wives, who are incessantly condemned to the most laborious occupations, I observed nothing among these people to mellow the tints of the picture." [Ibid., pp. 398-399.] Although LaPerouse found "no trace of anthropoph- agy," he is quite ready to believe that the Indians would be cannibals when they took a prisoner in time of war (ibid., p. 411). Dr. M. Rollin of the Boussole also found that these people "are audacious thieves, extremely irascible, and most of all to be dreaded by strangers" (LaPerouse, 1799, vol. 2, p. 360). Despite his obvious display of prejudice or of natural provocation, LaPe'rouse gives us a most inter- esting and full description of Indian summer camp life and occupations, the details of which are discussed in the appropriate ethnographic chapters. He deduces correctly that each household of 18 to 20 persons was under the leadership of its own head or chief, and was independent of the others in the village with respect to its activities. Futhermore, he believes that the bay was "a station for trade, inhabited only in the fishing season" (ibid., vol.1, p. 407). This is because he has seen whole villages coming and going (see passage quoted on p. 93), because of the skin boats that had come to the bay (see p. 123), the quantity of skins which the Indians had to trade, and their possession of iron and other objects of European origin. "I think I may venture to affirm, that this place is inhabited only in the summer, and that the Indians never pass the winter here. I did not see a single hut, that afforded shelter from the rain; and though there were never three hundred Indians collected in the bay at one time, we were visited by seven or eight hundred others. . . . [Ibid., pp. 399-100.] It is probable, that we saw but a very small part of these people, who in all likelihood occupy a considerable space along the sea-shore; visiting in summer the different bays in search of food like the seals, and in winter retiring farther within the land, to hunt beavers and other animals of which they brought us the spoils." [Ibid. p. 400.] Anthropometric measurements and other obser- vations were made by M. Rollin, M.D., the chief medical officer of the Boussole (1799, vol. 2, p. 356- 372). These are summarized by LaPe'rouse as follows: "The stature of these Indians is much the same as ours. [The men averaged 5 feet 3 inches, according to Dr. Rollin, (ibid., p. 371)]. Their features vary considerably, and exhibit no peculiar characteristic marks except in the expression of their eyes, to which gentleness is an utter stranger. The colour of their skin is very brown, because it is incessantly exposed to the air: but their children are born as fair as ours. They have, it is true, less beard than Europeans [but LaPe'rouse knows from bis own observations that no American Indians are naturally beardless; those who lack beards have eradicated the hair.] The frame of their body is slight. The weakest of our seamen would have thrown the strongest of the Indians in wrestling. I saw some whose swelled legs seemed to indicate the scurvy, though their gums were sound. I suspect that they never arrive at any very old age; I saw but one woman that appeared to be sixty; and she enjoyed no privileges, but was obliged, like the rest, to submit to the various labours imposed on her sex." [LaPe'rouse, 1799, vol. 1, pp. 404-405.] LaPe'rouse concludes that the inhabitants of Lituya Bay are not Eskimo, but Indians, "having evidently one common origin with all the inhabitants of the interior part of Canada and North America" (ibid., p. 405). As compared with the Eskimo, they are "much taller, thin, and not at all robust" (ibid., p. 406). IN THREE PARTS THROUGH ALIEN EYES 123 As compared to the California Indians who were later seen, Dr. Rollin (LaPe'rouse, 1799, vol. 2, pp. 356-357) finds that those of Lituya Bay "are taller, stronger made, of a more agreeable figure, and are capable of much greater vivacity of expression. They are superior to them also both in courage and in intellect. They have rather a low forehead, but more than that of the southern Americans, black and lively eyes, much thicker eye-brows, nose of the usual size and well formed, only a little widened at the extremity, thin lips, moderately large mouth, fine and very even teeth, the chin and ears perfectly regular. "The women also have the same advantage over those of the southern tribes before mentioned, having greater mildness in their features, as well aa more grace in the form of their limbs. "Their faces indeed would be tolerably agreeable, [if it were not for their large labrets.] This whimsical ornament not only disfigures the look, but causes an involuntary flow of sailva, as inconvenient as it is disgusting. "In general the complexion of these people is olive, with their nails, which they wear long, of a lighter shade; but in different individuals, and in different parts of the same individual, the tint of the skin varies, according as it is more or less ex- posed to the sun and the influence of the atmosphere. "Their hair is neither so coarse nor so black as that of the southern Americans, chestnut coloured hair being very common among them. They have also more beard, and the arm-pits and parts of sex are less scantily provided." [Ibid., pp. 358-359.] Their teeth are naturally even aDd sound. While the natives "are extremely filthy in their manner of living; yet, among these people, instances of the itch, or even traces of this disorder are rarely to be met with." [Ibid., p. 370.] There is thus no evidence yet of the European diseases which were to visit these people, although Portlock (1789, pp. 270-273) discovered that the Spanish in 1775 had spread smallpox among the Sitka Tlingit that had apparently wiped out whole families. One of the most interesting discoveries made in Lituya Bay was the frame of a large boat like an umiak with a skin cover, not a dugout like the canoes of the local Indians. "In the course of our inquiries respecting this custom [praying while going through the entrance to the bay, quoted on p. 93], we learned, that seven very large canoes had lately been lost in this passage, while an eighth escaped. This the Indians who were saved consecrated to their god, or to the memory of their comrades. We saw it by the side of a morai, which no doubt contained the ashes of some who were ship wrecked. [LaPerouse, vol. 1, p. 390.] [It was this umiak, the skin covering of which] was reposited in the morai, by the side of the coffers of ashes; and the frame of the canoe remained naked near it, raised upon stocks." [Ibid., p. 391.] LaPerouse was tempted to take the skin cover, and believed that this could have been done without the knowledge of the Indians, since this part of the bay was not inhabited. "Besides, I am well persuaded, that the persons shipwrecked were strangers" (ibid.), probably "Esquimaux" from the neighborhood of the Shumagin Islands and "the peninsula explored by Cook" (ibid., p. 407). The strangers may have been Chugach from Prince William Sound, but if so, it is not very likely, al- though not impossible, that they would have cremated their dead, unless, as I have already speculated, this was a special custom reserved for those who had died by drowning (Birket-Smith, 1953, pp. 89-91; deLaguna, 1956, pp. 88-89). The Yakutat people, however, lived much closer to Lituya Bay and were accustomed to visit it. Both the large skin-covered canoe (pp. 330-331) and the repository for ashes or "morai" (pp. 539-542) were at home in their culture in the 18th century. The Lituya Bay natives described by LaPerouse may be taken as typical of the northern Tlingit who were pressing northwestward along the Gulf of Alaska to trade with the Athabaskans and Eyak-speakers, or to acquire new territories in which to settle. Although Lituya Bay in 1786 seems not to have been a permanent place of residence, it evidently received a more estab- lished settlement later, for the Denver Art Museum acquired the painted rear partition cf a house, believed to have been at Lituya Bay. This screen, dating from about 1825, depicts the story of how Raven taught the people to catch and preserve fish (Malin and Feder, 1962, figs. 2, a, b). Such a screen could have come only from a permanent "named" lineage house. Perhaps some of those who once lived in this house are today represented by descendants at Yakutat. Dixon (1787) The first known exploration of Yakutat Bay was made in 1787 by Capt. George Dixon, commanding the Queen Charlotte, in the course of a voyage around the world with Capt. Nathaniel Portlock of the King George, in 1785-88.35 Both Dixon and Portlock had 35 Summarized by Fleurieu, 1801, vol. 1, pp. CXXIX-CXXXIV; Bancroft, 1886, pp. 261-265; Krause, 1956, pp. 20-22. 27 Mm A Q * to Aji %K MAP 19.?Chart of Port Mulgrave as surveyed by Capt. George Dixon in 1787. (Beresford, 1789, opp. p. 70.) IN THREE PARTS THROUGH ALIEN EYES 125 served under Captain Cook, 1776-80. The expedition of 1785-88 was a commercial venture undertaken for the King George's Sound Company, formed in London by Kichard Cadman Etches and other merchants for developing trade between the Northwest Coast, China, and Great Britain. Portlock and Dixon sailed from England in 1785, spent the following summer trading on Cook Inlet and fighting contrary winds along the Northwest Coast that prevented landing, and then wintered in the Hawaiian Islands. The following year, 1787, both vessels returned to Prince William Sound. Portlock in the King George remained for some time at Port Etches, sending his longboat on fur-trading expedi- tions as far as Cook Inlet, and then sailed down the coast, where, as already indicated, he met the Tlingit at Portlock Harbor on the west coast of Chichagof Island and also at Sitka Sound. He had not, however, sighted either the opening to Yakutat Bay or Cross Sound, and in late August left the Alaskan coast. Meanwhile, Dixon in the Queen Charlotte had pre- ceded Portlock across the Gulf of Alaska, sighting "Kaye's Island" on May 15, and Mount Saint Elias on May 18. On May 22 he discovered an inlet which he determined to explore in the hope of finding natives with whom to trade. This was Yakutat Bay, which he entered the afternoon of the following day, after sending the whaleboat under the second mate, Mr. Turner, to find a suitable harbor. While the ship waited offshore they saw a single native fishing in a canoe at the mouth of the bay, and Mr. Turner reported not only a good harbor but "a multitude of inhabitants" (Dixon, 1789, p. 85). The wind failing, the ship was towed into the entrance of Monti Bay, where she anchored for the night in 65 fathoms of water over a muddy bottom, less than a mile from shore, apparently between the mouth of Ankau Creek and Point Turner on Khantaak Island. "During the time we were warping into the bay, several canoes came along-side us, [writes Beresford, the supercargo on the Queen Charlotte]. We accosted the people with some of the words in use amongst the natives of Prince William's Sound, but they had not the least idea of their meaning: indeed it was pretty evident at first sight, that these people were a different nation, from the construction of their canoes, which were altogether of wood, neatly fin- ished, and in shape not very much unlike our whale- boats." [Beresford, 1789, p. 167.] [Early next morning, May 24] "we saw a number of the natives on the beach, near the entrance of this creek [Ankau], making signals for us to come on shore: a smoke was also seen, which proceeded from behind some pines, at a small distance round the point." Mr. Turner was sent in the whaleboat to see whether this would be a convenient anchorage. "He found a number of inhabitants, and two or three temporary huts" (ibid., p. 167). According to Dixon's shorter version, edited by "C.L." who seems to have been overfond of superlatives, there were "a great manj' Indians" urging the Europeans to come ashore, and at the village (on the northwest side of Ankau Creek, farther upstream than the present ANB Cemetery), "there were a great number of inhabitants, and some temporary huts" (Dixon, 1789, p. 85). This settlement, as well as two on Khantaak Island, are clearly shown on Dixon's sketch map of "Port Mulgrave" (Beresford, 1789, opp. p. 170). Dixon, how- ever, applied this name to the whole of what we now call Monti Bay and the sheltered waters behind Khan- taak Island, whereas on modern charts "Port Mul- grave" is reserved for the small harbor on the island, between Point Turner and Pyramid Point and opposite the present site of the "Old Village" of Yakutat. It was here that the Queen Charlotte dropped anchor when Ankau Creek was found too small to accommodate her. Although Dixon adopted "Port Mulgrave" as the official name, he seems to have first used the expression "Foggy Harbour," at least in reporting his discovery to Captain Colnett later that summer. Dixon gave the name "Admiralty Bay" to Yakutat Bay as a whole, and "Cape Phipps" to what we now call Phipps Penin- sula, thereby honoring again Constantine John Phipps, Baron Mulgrave. A point on Khantaak Island honors his second mate, James Turner. Dixon also named Point Carew, the northernmost point of Phipps Peninsula. The new anchorage in Port Mulgrave was "within pistol shot of the shore, and very near two large Indian huts" (Beresford, 1789, p. 168). These stood between the fresh water pond and the harbor beach, exactly where the village (S'uskA) was located in the 19th century, and where the old graveyard is now. Trade promptly began with the inhabitants. "The people seemed very well pleased at our arrival, and a number of them presently came along- side us. They soon understood what we wanted, and an old man brought us eight or ten excellent sea otter skins. This circumstance, together with our having as yet seen no beads, or other ornaments, or any iron implements, gave us reason to conclude, that no trading party had ever been here, and conse- quently that we should reap a plentiful harvest; but our conjectures on this head were built on a sandy foundation; for on a further acquaintance with our neighbours, they shewed us plenty of beads, and the same kind of knives and spears we had seen in Prince William's Sound; and as a melancholy proof that we only gleaned after more fortunate traders, what furs they brought to sell, exclusive of the small quantity just mentioned, were of a very inferior kind." [Beresford, 1789, p. 168.] 126 SMITHSONIAN CONTRIBUTIONS TO ANTHROPOLOGY VOLUME 7 The trade goods seen in Prince William Sound had been blue glass beads and Kussian iron knives and weapons (ibid., p. 147). Before we assume from this that the Russians or some other Europeans had already been to Yakutat Bay, we should consider the evidence offered by Port- lock of intertribal trade between Prince William Sound and some region, or people, whom the Chugach called "Wallamute." These were probably Eyak-speakers, who lived "considerably beyond Comptroller's Bay to the Eastward." It was from the latter that had come garments of sea otter fur, not whole pelts such as the Chugach themselves marked specially for trade. Port- lock was purchasing these garments in Prince William Sound from the Chugach at the same time that Dixon was discovering that the natives in Yakutat Bay had practically no furs to offer. While we cannot know with certainty who the "Wallamute" were (Birket-Smith and de Laguna, 1938, p. 357 and citations), it is intriguing to speculate that Portlock and Dixon may have been competing with each other for furs from the same source. Prince William Sound had become a center for trade; since the previous year it had been visited by Shelikhov's party on Montague Island, Lowry in the Captain Cook with Guise in the Experiment, Tipping in the Sea Otter, and Meares in the Nootlca (the last wintered miserably in the sound), all eagerly seeking furs (Ban- croft, 1886, pp. 259-262; de Laguna, 1956, p. 10). It must have been clear to the astute Eskimo, if they had not already learned from Cook in 1778, from the Spanish in 1779, and from the Russians in 1779, 1783- 85, that there was an active demand for furs. These were sought by the Chugach in intertribal trade. We may assume, therefore, that European goods were moving eastward along the Gulf of Alaska to be bar- tered like slaves and native copper. I suggest that it was native middlemen who had anticipated Dixon. Moreover, the demeanor of the Yakutat natives did not suggest previous direct contact with Europeans, and Dixon himself believed that "we were the first discoverers of this harbour" (Beresford, 1789, p. 170). While Dixon remained at Port Mulgrave, the ship was visited frequently by people from the village on Ankau Creek, "but they belonged to the same tribe with our neighbours, and possessed very few furs of any consequence" (Beresford, 1789, p. 168). Hoping to meet with more Indians, Dixon went out with the longboat to explore the nearby harbors, on July 1, the first day that the weather cleared, "taking with him one of the Indians who had frequently been on board, and who was a tolerably intelligent fellow, as a guide" (ibid., p. 169). To judge by the chart, this exploration was confined to the sheltered waters behind Khantaak Island, up through Johnstone Passage, perhaps as far as Krutoi Island, a distance of about 10 nautical miles from the anchorage. On this short excursion, which lasted only from 10 in the morning until 5 in the afternoon, Dixon "found several huts scattered here and there, in various parts of the sound, but they were mostly inhabited by people whom we had already seen; and there was not a single skin of any value amongst them . . ." (ibid., p. 169). One of the settlements, according to the sketch chart, was on the west side of Johnstone Passage, about Sy2 nautical miles northeast of the village at Port Mulgrave; that is, it was on the eastern side of Khantaak Island, or rather on the unnamed island just to the east, which is separated from it only at high water. This may be what our informants called QadAk. "The number of inhabitants contained in the whole sound, as near as I could calculate, amounted to about seventy, including women and children" (Beresford, 1789, p. 171), or "did not, perhaps, exceed seventy or eighty" (Dixon, 1789, p. 87), and their dwellings were judged to be merely temporary structures, the planks of which could be taken away in a canoe and erected in a different spot. In this, Dixon's observations coincide with those of LaPe'rouse in Lituya Bay. (For a descrip- tion of the houses, see p. 311.) Not far from Ankau Creek, and about 1% miles from the vessel (probably somewhere near Ankau Point and the modern cemetery), Dixon discovered a cemetery, apparently similar to the type of "morai" seen by LaPerouse. (The descriptions are quoted on p. 539.) Dixon often went ashore to shoot wild ducks and geese, "which not only proved an excellent treat for us, but at the same time gave the Indians such an idea of fire-arms, that their behaviour was perfectly quiet and inoffensive, and they never attempted to molest us" (Beresford, 1789, p. 171). On one occasion the whaleboat was sent with seven hands to fish for halibut just outside Point Carew, where the natives were then fishing and where they still fish today. The Englishmen found that "their success was greatly inferior to that of two Indians, who were fishing at the same time, which is rather extraordinary, if we consider the apparent inferiority of their tackle to our's." Beresford then goes on to describe the Tlingit halibut hook and method of fishing (quoted on p. 391), concluding: "Thus were we fairly beat at our own weapons, and the natives constantly bringing us plenty of fish, our boat was never sent on this business afterwards" (ibid., pp 174-175). Halibut was bought from the natives for "beads and small toes" (ibid., p. 173). "Toes" were iron adzes (cf. Krause, 1959, p. 19, note 36). "Toes were the article of trade held in the first estimation here, and next to these, pewter basons were best liked." IN THREE PARTS THROUGH ALIEN EYES 127 "Beads served to purchase pieces of skins that were of little value; but the deep blue, and small green, were the only sorts that would be taken in barter" (Beresford, 1789, pp. 176-177). It was found that to offer any great variety of articles only confused the natives and made the transactions even slower than usual. Dixon was disappointed in securing only "about sixteen good sea otter skins, two fine cloaks of the earless marmot, a few racoons, and a parcel of very inferior pieces and slips of beaver" (ibid., p. 169). Beresford hazards that the "marmot cloaks were pro- cured by these people from some neighbouring tribe" (ibid., p. 176). It took, however, about 10 days, or until June 3, before "we found the natives scanty stock of furs not only exhausted, but that they had stripped them- selves almost naked, to spin out their trade as far as possible. This tedious delay was occasioned by the slow, deliberate manner in which these people conduct their traffic. Four or six people come along- side in a canoe, and wait perhaps an hour before they give the least intimation of having any thing to sell; they then, by significant shrugs and gestures, hint at having brought something valuable to dispose of, and wish to see what will be given in exchange, even before their commodity is exposed to view, for they are particularly careful in concealing every thing they bring to sell. Should this manoeuvre not succeed, after much deliberation, their cargo is produced, and generally consists of a few trifling pieces of old sea otter skins, and even then, a con- siderable time is taken up before the bargain is concluded; so that a whole day would frequently be spent in picking up a few trifles. Such, however, was our present situation, in regard to trade, that we patiently submitted to the tantalizing method of these people, in hopes that something better might possibly be brought us; but finding they were stripped almost naked, and not the most distant probability of any better success, Captain Dixon determined to leave this place the first opportunity." [Ibid., pp. 169-170.] [He sailed the next day.] These delaying tactics, which irritated the English, were of advantage to the natives because they served to keep in port the interesting strangers who constituted a market for halibut. These were not only good bar- gaining tactics, but were enjoyed by the natives, since the Yakutat find pleasurable the actual handling of wealth. Moreover, holding back items and stealthy peeking at goods to be offered in trade were char- acteristic of the Southern Tutchone Athabaskans with whom the Chilkat Tlingit traded (Olson, 1936, p. 213), and we might assume that this behavior would be equally characteristic of the Tlingit themselves, or of the Tlingitized Yakutat, if the situation were reversed and wealthy strangers came to visit them. However, we should note the contrast in speed of trading displayed by the Tlingit of Sitka ("Norfolk") Sound, whom the Queen Charlotte visited later in June (Beresford, 1789, p. 182). The information in Beresford's report is insufficient to show whether the natives in Yakutat Bay were Tlingit in 1787, although it is clear that much of then- culture was Tlingit. They understood neither the words of Tanaina Athabaskan nor of Chugach Eskimo, which the English had picked up in Cook Inlet and Prince William Sound, but seem to have replied in a different language, about which we are told nothing except that "it appears barbarous, uncouth, and difficult to pro- nounce: they frequently used the word Amcou, which signifies a Friend, or Chief ['anqawu, 'chief, rich man,' evidently used flatteringly], and their numerals reckon to ten; but I was not able to procure any farther speci- men of their language, as they are very close and un- communicative in their dispositions" (ibid., p. 172). In referring to the language heard at Sitka Sound, Beres- ford observes that "I have some reason to think it is nearly the same with that at Port Mulgrave" (ibid., p. 191), but unfortunately we are not offered a com- parative vocabulary. In comparing the Yakutat natives with the Tlingit of Sitka, Beresford found that the latter "seemed far more lively and alert than those we had left at Port Mulgrave" (ibid., p. 181). Although at first civil enough, they soon showed themselves ready to pick pockets and to steal, and "indeed they could scarcely be restrained from these proceedings without violence" (ibid., p. 184). This was not a charge made against the natives of Yakutat. "These people [Sitka Tlingit] in their make, shape, and features, are pretty much the same with those we saw in Port Mulgrave;" and in many particulars had the same customs (ibid., p. 186). Yet, "The manners and disposition of the people here, approach nearer to those in Cook's River, and Prince William's Sound, than our friends in Port Mulgrave; but this may, perhaps, in some measure, be accounted for from their enlarged society, and their constant intercourse with each other" (ibid., p. 187). We should add that the Sitkan method of trading was as cere- moniously carried out as at Lituya Bay, and that each chief managed or controlled all the transactions of his people, taking "infinite pains to dispose of their furs advantageously" (ibid.). This type of organized trade had not been noted at Yakutat, although Malaspina was to experience something of it (see p. 143). My impression is that the Yakutat Indians described by Beresford were already largely Tlingit, but not completely so. Their behavior suggests more the sub- dued and amiable Athabaskans than the self-confident 128 SMITHSONIAN CONTRIBUTIONS TO ANTHROPOLOGY VOLUME 7 Tlingit. They had not yet been completely "organized" to trade, an innovation ascribed by my informants to the great ^atgawet, a wealthy shaman of Tongass extraction (see p. 245). That the Yakutat could speak Tlingit but were rather reluctant to give a vocabulary, suggests a little linguistic insecurity, and reminds us of the reactions of Dr. McClellan's Southern Tutchone, who knew that their old Athabaskan words were no longer "correct," but who were also acutely aware that their Tlingit was faulty. However, we should not attempt to make too much of this last point, since Beresford was notoriously unsuccessful in learning any Haida, his efforts to pronounce words in that language being greeted with a "sarcastic laugh" or "silent contempt" by the Queen Charlotte Islanders. Although he describes the latter as "never of a communicative disposition" (ibid., p. 227), Beresford himself may have been particularly gauche or antagonizing. In addition to giving some ethnological details about the Yakutat Indians, Beresford describes their appear- ance as follows: ". . . they in general are about the middle size, their limbs straight and well shaped, but like the rest of the inhabitants we have seen on the coast, are particularly fond of painting their faces with a variety of colours, so that it is no easy matter to discover their real complexion; however, we pre- vailed on one woman, by persuasion, and a trifling present, to wash her face and hands, and the alter- ation it made in her appearance absolutely surprised us; her countenance had all the chearful glow of an English milkmaid; and the healthy red which flushed her cheek, was even beautifully contrasted with the whiteness of her neck; her eyes were black and sparkling; her eye-brows the same colour, and most beautifully arched; her forehead so remark- ably clear, that the translucent veins were seen meandering even in their minutest branches?in short, she was what would be reckoned handsome even in England: but this symmetry of features is entirely destroyed by a custom extremely singular, and what we had never met with before, neither do I recollect having seen it mentioned by any Voyagers whatever." [Ibid., pp. 171-172.] Alas, the lovely lady wore a large labret! (For a de- scription, see p. 434.) This woman's lip ornament is distinctively Tlingit, rather than Eyak or Athabaskan. As far as archeolog- ical evidence would indicate, it was absent from Yakutat in late prehistoric times (de Laguna et al, 1964, pp. 163-164). Abercrombie (1900, p. 394) in 1884 recog- nized the labret as alien to Yakutat, although he erred in stating that it was never worn. It is probably sig- nificant that Beresford noted that this ornament was not worn by all the women at Port Mulgrave, "but only those who appeared in a superior station to the rest" (Beresford, 1789, p. 172). Is this evidence that would confirm Yakutat traditions that their chiefs sought brides of suitably high rank among the Tlingit? (see p. 233). After leaving Yakutat on June 4, Dixon sailed straight out into the Gulf, then turned almost due east to strike the coast at what he called "Norfolk Sound" (Sitka Sound). After trading here he sailed again June 23, and reached "Queen Charlotte's Islands" before the end of the month, naming these islands after bis ship, and the channel north of them after himself. After successful trading at various points on the west coast, he rounded their southern end and explored Hecate Strait as far as "Cape Darymple" on Banks Island. Then he turned toward Nootka Sound, off which, as we shall see, he met Capt. James Colnett, the next explorer of Yakutat Bay. Colnett (1788) In the summer of 1788, three separate expeditions were to come to the Yakutat Bay area, the first two following each other closely into the bay, but failing to meet. The third stopped briefly only on the coast near Dry Bay. The first of these voyagers was Capt. James Colnett, in the ship Prince of Wales, acting for the King George's Sound Company.36 Colnett had been a midshipman on Cook's second voyage, and a lieutenant on his third. As he himself wrote in 1798 (pp. i-n), he had been "engaged in various commercial undertakings on the North-West Coast of America, during a period of seven years . . ." and had ". . . searched the coast from 36? to 60? North, the inland part of which was before little known to European navigators." His expedition in 1789 to found a colony in Nootka Sound is the most famous, for there he and his ship were seized by the Spanish, who claimed this important center of the sea otter fur trade for the crown of Spain. Colnett and his men were held prisoners for 13 months, and he was not able to return to England until 1792. It was this high-handed action of the Spanish that precipitated the so-called "Nootka Controversy" be- tween Spain and Great Britain, which, as we know, resulted in the abandonment of all Spanish claims 38 Summaries are in Fleurieu, 1801, vol. 1, pp. CXXXV-CXLI; Bancroft, 1884, vol. 1, pp. 182-184; Wagner, 1937, vol. 1, pp. 206-207, 213; and in the biographical notes to Menzies' Journal, by Forsyth, 1923, pp. vm-xv. These sources are not in complete agreement. IN THREE PARTS THROUGH ALIEN EYES 129 to the Northwest Coast (Bancroft, 1884, vol. 1, pp. 204-283; Wagner, 1937, vol. 1, pp. 210, 216). Colnett's voyage of October 16, 1786, to November 7, 1888, is far less well known, largely because his journal has never been published. Excerpts from the Crown-copyright manuscript in the Public Record Office, London, are quoted below by the kind permission of the Controller of H.M. Stationery Office. On this expedition, Captain Colnett in the Prince of Wales had been accompanied from England by Cap- tain Duncan in the sloop Princess Royal. Both vessels were owned by the same company that had dispatched Portlock and Dixon the previous year. Among the important persons on board the Prince of Wales was Lieut. James Johnstone, Colnett's first officer, and Archibald Menzies, the Scottish botanist, acting as medical officer. Both of them were later to sail with Captain Vancouver to the Northwest Coast in 1790-95, revisiting many of the localities they had explored with Colnett. The supercargo of the Prince of Wales was John Etches, brother of the owner. As Dixon neared Nootka Sound in late August 1787, he met the Prince of Wales and the Princess Royal leaving this port, and as Beresford (1789, p. 230) writes: "We learned, to our great joy, that they were from London, and fitted out by our Owners." The ships exchanged information about the coasts they had visited and their varying successes in the fur trade at different places. John Etches told Beresford (ibid., p. 231) "that they had been near a month in King George's [Nootka] Sound, but had done very little business, having found a ship there called the Imperial Eagle, commanded by a Captain Berkley," who had apparently arrived just in time to spoil their trade, for this captain boasted of all the furs he had obtained. Nootka was at that time the center for sea otter, and already was being stripped of these animals. (Cf. Wagner, 1937, vol. 1, pp. 206 f., for all the traders there, 1785-86). "Our meeting with these vessels was very fortunate, both on their account and our own, What we learnt from them rendered it entirely useless for us to make King George's Sound, and Prince William's Sound being their next destination, we not only could inform them that nothing could be expected from that quarter," but urged "our new brothers in trade" to "make the N.E. side of Queen Charlotte's Islands, and the opposite land, which we judged to be the main" (Beresford, 1789, pp. 233-234). After Colnett and Duncan had spent all night aboard the Queen Charlotte, "procuring a chart of the coast" (ibid., p. 234) on which Dixon had marked all his dis- coveries, the latter sailed directly for the Hawaian Islands, where he was to meet Portlock. Apparently the Prince of Wales and Princess Royal took his advice and went to the east coast of the Queen Charlotte's and the mainland opposite. I do not know what other local- ities they may have visited, since the summaries I have consulted differed, and I have not read that part of Colnett's journal. Duncan explored this area the fol- lowing summer so there is confusion between the dis- coveries of the two seasons. At any event, after presumably wintering in the Hawaiian Islands, the two ships returned to the North- west Coast, Duncan in the Princess Royal to trade in British Columbia waters as far south as the Strait of Juan de Fuca. He rejoined Colnett in the Hawaiian Islands, and both ships proceeded to China. From here, Duncan with his ship, and the Prince of Wales with Menzies, under the command of Lieutenant Johnstone, sailed for England, where they arrived in July 1789. Captain Colnett, however, remained in China to organize the expedition to Nootka Sound which ended so disastrously for him. After parting with Duncan hi the spring of 1788, Colnett had sailed into Prince William Sound, where he remained from April 26 to May 24, trading with the natives in various localities, including the Green Islands and Port Etches. From the latter place the supercargo tried twice to go to Controller Bay, but succeeded only in circumnavigating Hinchinbrook Island. While at Port Etches, John Etches and a John Hutchins carved their names and the date, May 9, 1788, on a tree where it was seen shortly afterward by Captain Douglas in the Iphigenia (Meares, 1790, p. 316). About May 22, Colnett moved the Prince of Wales to Captain Cook's Snug Corner Cove, farther up the sound, where he traded with a number of natives, including one who called himself "Portlock." Colnett's manuscript, especially the portion dealing with Prince William Sound and the neighborhood, contains some excellent descriptions of places and people, and some neat sketches, although the latter are unfortunately in faint pencil. Some of his sketch maps are fairly good, but on others the distances are exaggerated, or important features, the Copper River, for example, are omitted. He furthermore often ne- glects to note the latitude and longitude of his position. A minor difficulty in understanding his manuscript is due to his use of commas instead of periods, and to his failure to capitalize the first letter of a new sentence. These I have in some cases supplied, and to make reading easier I have also broken the almost continuous text into paragraphs. On May 24, Captain Colnett sailed for "Foggy Har- bour," as he called Yakutat Bay. "Portlock," the Indian, at his request was taken for a short distance down the coast, being put off in his boat somewhere off the Copper River. The supercargo went in a boat into Controller Bay from the west, while the Prince of Wales stood into 130 SMITHSONIAN CONTRIBUTIONS TO ANTHROPOLOGY VOLUME 7 the eastern entrance to pick him up. The weather was bad and the ship had to seek shelter behind Cape Suckling. There is no mention of natives here, and Colnett did not like the place. "I might have anchored off Cape Suckling," he writes, "& searched for a port but as circumstances were at present no time on my side was to be lost to prevent the Natives of Foggy Harbour disposing of their skins to the Russians as I was informed they had the year before." Information about Yakutat Bay had been obtained from Dixon. By May 31, Colnett was off the entrance to "Foggy Harbour" where he waited until June 3, until the long- boat returned. The latter had been all the way to Cape Fairweather but had failed to find the harbor marked on their chart. The only one resembling it was the harbor on the east side of "Beering's [Yakutat] Bay," where they now anchored. According to Colnett's sketch chart and description of the place, his anchorage was just inside the northeast point (Strawberry Point) of Khantaak Island, opposite the channel between Otmeloi and Kriwoi Islands, not at Dixon's anchorage. "Foggy Harbour" was so called by Dixon, Colnett reports, but is not as far east as Dixon put it. It is situated among many islands, the "Foggy Isles," on the east side of a deep bay that runs in toward the northeast, with Mount Saint Elias to the west. "Should suppose it is Bearing's Bay." Colnett's map and description of Khantaak Island and of the shelter behind it are a little more complete and accurate than Dixon's although Colnett remained in Yakutat Bay only until June 9. Colnett was disappointed in trading. "Several Indians came on board with nothing but old skins. Several signified that they had had two ships lately among them & purchased all they had, & that the Crews and Commanders wore large caps & were remarkably stout. Some canoes that the long boat fell in with to the westward gave them the same information." What were these ships? Do the reports refer to Dixon's Queen Charlotte the year before and, if so, what was the second ship? We have no records of any other visits to Yakutat. Colnett assumes that the ships had called there, but might not the Yakutat natives have encountered them in Prince William Sound? Colnett determined to leave, even though the Indians seemed to promise that much would soon be forth- coming in the way of trade, for he felt that he had already been in "Foggy Harbour" long enough for them to have brought out any skins they might have. Colnett seems to have been rather tolerant of their pilfering, contrasting them with the Chugach whom he had already described as "much addicted to thieving & very artful in their dealing [,] seldom selling their Furs till they had found means to steal something." [As to the Yakutat natives:] "Their wishing one to remain might be only a decoy to give them an opportunity to thieve[.] They did not seem so great adepts at it, as our former acquaintances on this coast [Chugach], but we soon grew familiar to them, & they could not divest themselves of the natural failing of all Indians to take what ever they fancied & opportunity offered. "[No para.] This was the case of an Indian that stole the sailmaker's fishing line & he too rashly caught up a musket & shot the man, but it was done with a degree of cruelty, for he fired twice [.] I was not on deck myself or would have endeavoured to prevent it, & those whose business it was in my absence, looked on with greatest unconcern; a few canoes remained along side some time afterwards but next morning only one was seen . . . ". . . Before leaving the Port the leading man of the canoe that remained with us had a helmet Cap given him." [Some of Colnett's observations about Yakutat are shrewd and illuminating:] "If I might Judge of the inhabitants from the number I saw there were not above 200; I think their residence is farther to the Southward and Eastward and [they are] only here at certain seasons of the year to hunt, fish, and trade. We learnt of the natives here & at Prince William Sound that they traded with each other, each remarking & with a degree of contempt, the Cut lips of the men to the North [where Chugach men wore labrets] & the large Mouth pieces of the Women to the South [presum- ably at Yakutat]. All the European articles I saw was a file with Hunsberg [?] on, & a pair of Russian or Dutch scissors. They shewed us very little Iron, but from the familiar method of receiving us, should suppose European visitors were common. "[No para.] At this place appears to commence a different nation from those reside to the North. Besides the difference of the sex in wearing the lip pieces, their Canoes are all of wood & of an opposite Built, & three or four kinds of them; & I believe belong to different tribes, as there was a variation also in then* languages, several counting numbers not with the same name & when ask'd where resided pointed different ways." [Unfortunately no vocabularies are given. Al- though these observations suggest the mingling of Tlingit and Eyak-speakers, the multiplicity of canoe types is characteristic of Yakutat (see p. 330):] " . . . one kind of their canoes resembled a neat built ship, Galley fashion thus?[sketch] and may hold three or four men, the most seen in them there. Others resembled a half Moses dug out of a Log. The two larger kind [:] one Charlotte Isles built [,] the other like a Butchers tray cut out of a solid piece IN THREE PARTS THROUGH ALIEN EYES 131 of timber carrying from 20 to 30 people [.] Their Baggage [,] women and children are transported in those [,] I suppose in inland navigation for they seem'd greatly alarm'd at the gentlest breeze when any dist. from the shore. [Cf. fig. 25, p. 335.] "[No para.] The Women and men in persons & Customs resemble those of the Charlotte Isles but their language had not the least similarity. Habita- tions I saw none, but the remains of some Huts on several parts of the Shore [:] temporary dwellings & summer residence." Colnett seems to have liked Yakutat, for he writes of it: "On the whole the pleasantest place I had met with on the coast. The shores in every part were full of Currants, Gooseberries, Strawberries, Ras- berries, apple Trees, & wild peas all in bloom, & the natives till the man was shot, brought salmon & Halibut. I saw no fresh water, but have not the least doubt there was plenty on the High land to the North." He appends sketches of the lowland at the entrance to "Foggy Harbour" and of Mount Saint Elias as seen from the anchorage. The Prince of Wales sailed from "Foggy Harbour" on June 9. That day, when about 9 leagues (27 nautical miles) offshore,37 "the Officer of the Watch informed me a Boat was coming off with a Flag. For a long time took it for a Russian launch, but on drawing near prov'd to be a Canoe with three sticks up as masts[;] on two of them were tails of large birds hanging by a string & on the middle stick a strip of skin." The hoisting of a tuft of white feathers on the end of a long pole, which looked like a white flag at a distance, seems to have been a Tlingit "emblem of peace and friendship," an invitation to trade, which Beresford (1789, p. 180) had described at Sitka Sound the previous year. Colnett continues: "Some few skins and pieces were bought off them, & another soon joined us; in both were 30 men[,] women & children; one of the men had his dress trim'd with Chinese money, & also shewed a piece of new striped Flannel. At midnight they left us." This encounter presumably took place somewhere off the shore between Ocean Cape and Situk River. The next morning, June 10, the breeze freshened from the west, 37 Colnett's estimate of the distance is excessive; perhaps he failed to see the low foreshore. "but a large smoak being observ'd on a beach, shortened sail & hauled in for it, at the same time a Canoe was observ'd pulling after us with a piece of skin on a staff, hove too; two Canoes Join'd & some skins & pieces were purchased. . . ." This second encounter was probably somewhere offshore between Situk and Ahrnklin Rivers, since his observations at noon would put him off the mouth of Ahrnklin River or Dangerous River, from which posi- tion he sketched what appears to be Yakutat Glacier, as seen above the lagoon at the mouth of the river. However, we cannot be sure, for he makes an obscure reference to the bluff at Cape Suckling. Colnett seems to have tacked about, apparently at one time sailing toward Icy Bay, for he notes that Mount Saint Elias towers to a great height and looks conical. In any case, he must have resumed his voyage toward the southeast, for on the night of June 11, he found an anchorage in latitude 58?30', 4 or 5 leagues (12 or 13 nautical miles) from Cape Fairweather. This position is impossible, for Cape Fairweather is in latitude 58?48', which means that Colnett had either miscalcu- lated his position by 3' or had underestimated the distance. However, as Dall (Dall and Baker, 1883, p. 202) has warned, Harbor Point, the southeast entrance to Lituya Bay, when seen from the south or southeast, "is very likely to be mistaken for Cape Fairweather." If Colnett did make this mistake, a distance of 12 nautical miles southeast along the coast from Harbor Point would bring him to a possible anchorage at about the correct latitude. As the ship was proceeding southeastward down the coast, a little after noon the next day, "a Canoe was observ'd pulling after us . . . with a skin on a pole. Brought too. On their Joining us had not the least Inclination to trade requesting us to return back to the westward. At this time a point to the Eastwrd making like an inlet & some smoak on it, hoisted the Boat out & the 2nd mate went to examine it. At 8 the Boat returned reporting the place to be a small Bay of 3 fs [fathoms] of water but unsafe to stop in, so much Ice coming down from a run of water above it. At this place was a house & garden neatly fenced in, & European plants growing [!], but only saw 8 women, a lad & a boy. A skin & a piece was procured from them. This Bay is six or 7 leagues from Cape Fairweather." Where was this place? A distance of 7 leagues or 21 nautical miles from Harbor Point at Lituya Bay would be about a mile from Icy Point, behind or east of which lies Palma Bay with several sheltered coves. We know from Goldschrnidt and Haas (1946, p. 95) that, in later days, the DAqdentan from Hoonah used to have a place called Ganexa, east of Icy Point, perhaps at the Kaknau Creek of modern charts. 132 SMITHSONIAN CONTRIBUTIONS TO ANTHROPOLOGY VOLUME 7 More puzzling than the locality visited, is the men- tion of the fenced garden and European plants. Fenc- ing might be an aborginal trait, since the cemetery near Ankau Point was described by Beresford (1789, p. 175) as marked by "a number of white rails," constructed with order and regularity, a description which might apply to a fence. However, Malaspina, Suria, and LaP6rouse make no mention of fences at the cemeteries on Yakutat and Lituya Bays, and Suria does not include them in his paintings of the cemetery at Ankau Point. But the "European plants" defy interpretation, and unfortunately there is no indica- tion that Menzies saw them. Could Colnett's mate have seen native tobacco? This seems to have been cultivated by the Tlingit, and was noted at Yakutat by Dixon. It is hardly credible that the Tlingit should already have acquired other domesticated plants, since the Russians had not yet attempted to introduce them into Alaska. When the ship's boat returned from this mysterious bay, it was found that "nothing would entice the canoe along side to trade. After detaining us 8 Hours took from them two Skins & some strips & paid them double what we gave in fair Barter & they left us perfectly satisfied." The ship stood along the shore until "Cape Fair- weather" or Harbor Point was judged to be some 7 to 10 leagues distant, and later, that night(?), a fire was seen a little to the west of the bay in which the boat had landed. Early the following morning a canoe again came off, from which another skin and one or two garments were purchased. The ship was estimated to be in latitude 58?20' N., with the little bay bearing N22W, 8 miles distant, with Mount Fairweather on the same bearing. If these observations are accurate, the little bay with the fenced garden would have been on the north or northwest shore of Palma Bay. By June 13, Colnett came in sight of Cross Sound; he saw a smoke and was joined by three canoes, which, however, had only three poor skins to trade. Portlock and Dixon had warned him that he would get little here. From another canoe he obtained two or three more furs. Then he sailed on to Sitka Sound, observing: "The Natives also very friendly. Not a canoe came along side but invited us in to their dwelling promising plenty to eat, & that our canoe would be sheltered from wind & sea. Not that we understood a syllable of their language, but we had now so long been conversing by signs & tokens that after gaining a little knowledge of their language found we had seldom been mistaken." It is a pity that Captain Colnett with his apparent liking for the country and the natives did not leave us a fuller description of what he saw. Ismailov and Bocharov (1788) About 2 weeks after Colnett had left Port Etches in May 1788, the Russian galliot Trekh Sviatiteli (Three Saints) entered it, and was to follow close behind the Prince of Wales to Yakutat and beyond. It will be remembered that Shelikhov had been anxious to establish posts in Prince William Sound, Cook Inlet, and on other parts of the Alaskan main- land, including the Gulf Coast. Although Shelikhov had returned to Siberia, Eustrate Delarov had been left behind at Kodiak to carry out the former's plans. Furthermore, Gov. I. Yakoby of Irkutsk had sent secret instructions on June 21, 1787, to Shelikhov, Samoilov, and Delarov, that the agents of the company should bury tablets claiming the land for Russia, especially at places where prior European vessels had obtained rich hauls of fur. "These tablets were supposed to be buried so 'that not only were the native inhabitants not to see them, but they were also to be hidden from every one of our Russian workers, so that, by keeping this secret, the inhabitants might be prevented from guessing that the tablets were placed there in the present time'" (Okun, 1951, pp. 14-15, from Tikhmenev, 1863, Suppl.). Accordingly the naval pilots Ismailov and Bocharov were sent from Kodiak in May 1788, to explore the coasts of Alaska and to claim such areas for the Tsarina's crown. In addition to these two naval officers, the expedition consisted of 40 Russians and at least 6 Koniag interpreters. The report of their explorations was included in Shelikhov's account of his own voyage to America.38 In Prince William Sound the Russians learned through their interpreters that the Chugach "enter into alliances with the Kinaizi [Tanaina Athabaskans of Cook Inlet], to the west, and on the east with the Ugalak mutes" (Coxe, 1803, p. 312). After a brush with the Chugach on Middleton Island, where the Russians lost one of the men whom they had captured in Prince William Sound but seized another, the Russians sailed for Kayak Island, where they anchored on June 2 [Julian calendar], again only a few days behind Colnett. "We were informed by the islander 36 Shelikhov in Pallas, 1793, vol. 6, pp. 205-249; Shelikhov in Coxe, 1803, pp. 302-343; also MS. translation of Shelikhov by Ivan Petroff in Bancroft Library, Berkeley. Summarized in Tikhmenev, 1861, vol. 1, pp. 26-27; Bancroft, 1886, pp. 226-270; Krause, 1956, pp. 28-29. In the reports of February 13 and 14, 1790, sent by Ivan Phil, Governor-General of Irkutsk, to the Tsarina (Andreyev, 1952, pp. 95-117) the Russian discoveries of 1788 are lumped together with those made by Shelikhov and Golikov in 1783. IN THREE PARTS THROUGH ALIEN EYES 133 [Chugach] who accompanied us that it was not in- habited [according to Shelikhov in Coxe, 1803, pp. 316-317]; but was occasionally frequented by the Tchugatski, and Ugalak mutes, for the purpose of hunting sea-otters." Apparently the ship rounded the southern point of the island and came up toward Cape Suckling, where their captive "pointed out a small rivulet, which is frequented by the Ugalak mutes, [but] it had no protection from the sea." (Ibid., pp. 317-318.) From the third to the seventh, the Kussians with their interpreters in skin baidars explored the marshy coast, finding two small rivers and a larger one. This river is described as flowing with moderate descent from the northeast, with a higher ridge of mountains to the right; it is 200 fathoms wide at the mouth, with small wooded islands to the right, and a rocky neck of land on the left. Since the river was blocked by ice that was just beginning to thaw, the Russians walked up the bank about 3 versts (about 2 miles), "observed a hut covered with the bark of trees, and the marks of human feet; but no inhabitants. Near this river dwell the Ugalak mutes, who are at enmity with the neighbouring Koliuski" (ibid., p. 320). Is this Bering River in Controller Bay, or possibly Kaliakh or Duk- toth River near Cape Yakataga? The second and larger of the two small streams had two mouths and a depth of only one-half of a fathom at low tide. The Russians rowed up it for a distance of 2 versts (about 1% miles), where they "observed recent marks of human feet, and others which resembled those of a dog." On the shore of the bay they also saw footprints (ibid., p. 319). Since the Eyak inhabitants of this area were evidently avoiding the Russians, information about them and about their relationship with the Tlingit(?) of Yakutat Bay(?) could only have come from the Chugach hostage. After leaving this river, the ship sailed southeast along the shore, sighting the mouth of Yakutat Bay on June 10, but was prevented from entering by adverse winds. The following morning, two Russians and six Koniags went in four baidarkas to explore the bay, while the galliot stood in toward land with a light breeze. The baidarkas returned before noon, shortly followed by two large wooden canoes; in the middle of each canoe was stood a pole to which sea otter skins were fastened. The description of these canoes, with their high, perforated prows (pp. 333-334),matches those sketched by LaPerouse's expedition in Lituya Bay. "Each baidar [i.e., dugout] contained fifteen men, some of whom were clad in the skins of sea-otters, sables, martens, marmots, and gluttons [wolverines]. Some were dressed in European cloths and linens, particularly a thin green kind of serge, and varie- gated printed linens. On approaching the ship, they pointed to the bay which lay close to the little islands. As no one could understand their language, it was conjectured they advised us to enter the bay; a rope was accordingly thrown out, which they eagerly laid hold of, and began to tow to the vessel. For the purpose of assisting them, we hoisted out a baidar, taking the precaution to furnish the sailors with arms; in about an hour some natives came from the shore in two other baidars, and joined in towing. [Ibid., pp. 322-323.] [So the ship was brought into the bay and then into a little harbor on the east side, where she anchored in 10 fathoms close to the shore, and oppo- site some native habitations. But since this anchorage (in Monti Bay?) was not considered safe enough,] "we towed the ship into an adjacent harbour smaller, but more secure, called in the language of the country Yakutat; on the 12th at four in the morning, we anchored in twelve fathom on a muddy bottom [in Port Mulgrave?]. "During our stay in these parts we carried on a friendly traffic with the natives." [Ibid., p. 323.] [The Russians found that:] "The greater part of the inhabitants had quitted their winter huts, and for the purpose of procuring provisions, were gone out in canoes and boats, which resemble those used at Kamtchatka [i.e., dugouts]. These people bear the name of Koliuski [Kolosh], and fix their dwellings on the banks of the different rivers." [Ibid., p. 324.] [Presumably this refers to the Ankau and to other streams southeast of Yakutat Bay where the winter villages were located.] In order to secure good water, the ship was moved farther to the northeast, "between the islands and the continent" where a suitable brook was found nearby (ibid., p. 325). Yakutat Bay is described as "frozen later than the end of July," which must surely refer to reports of Disenchantment Bay, or perhaps of visits to it by baidarka; for it is later stated that: "In every part of this bay of Yakutat, the air in fine weather is warm, and it is much sheltered by the forests." The many fur-bearing animals, as well as all kinds of marine animals, land and sea birds, and "abundance of sal- mon," are noted (ibid., p. 325). In addition to brief descriptions of houses, boats, weapons, and native dress, we are told that: "The native Koliuski are in stature not short; they are in general like the Konaghi [Koniag] of a brown complex- ion; a few only are fair" (ibid.). The extent of trade with Yakutat was also judged: "In time of peace they traffic to the east with the Tschitskanies, [39] and to the west with the Ugalak 8S Chilkat or Sitka Tlingit? "Tschitschchanern" in Pallas, 1893, vol. 6, p. 231. 134 SMITHSONIAN CONTRIBUTIONS TO ANTHROPOLOGY VOLUME 7 mutes [Eyak], and the Tschugatski [Chugach], and since 1786, with European navigators. [40] They eagerly purchase different sorts of clothing, iron, kettles, and stills [Destillierblasen, Pallas, 1793, vol. 6, p. 231]. But they are not so eager for beads and the like. They daily flocked to the ship in large and small baidars with their wives and children, and offered for sale the skins and tails of sea-otters and beavers, garments made of different skins, ["] woolen clothes of their own manufacture [Chilkat- blanket type garments], and purses made of grass and the filaments of roots. They required in return for their own garments, different sorts of nankeen, linen and other shirts, and stills; for the other skins and articles, ear-rings of blue and red coral, and blue beads. As there were no settled rules for trade, they were extremely covetous in bartering, and peremptorily insisted on an additional present in every exchange. We saw in their possession several hatchets, which from then- shape, we supposed to be procured from some European ship; and the natives said that in the spring of the year 1788, a three-masted vessel had anchored near the island, not far from the bay, and that one of the natives who visited the ship had been shot with a pistol." [Coxe, 1803, p. 328.] The distilling apparatus was presumably desired for its metal, probably its copper tubing; manufacture of liquor was not to be attempted by the Tlingit for almost one hundred years! The natives were, of course, telling about the shoot- ing of an Indian by one of Colnett's men. It will be remembered that Colnett has quitted Yakutat Bay on June 9 (Gregorian calendar), about 2 weeks before the Russians entered, thinking that the natives had no more skins to trade. The latter were probably not deceiving him when they indicated that they would soon have something fine to offer, either from new hunts or from more distant villages, unless the Russians exaggerated what they were able to obtain. The Russians also noted that some of the Indians were wearing "caps, like those of the grenadiers, with brass ornaments which they procure from Europeans," and also reported some amulets of iron, "resembling the heads of crows, with copper eyes" (Coxe, 1803, pp. 326, 327). At Yakutat the Russians purchased two 12-year old slave boys. One was a Koniag who had been captured at Kodiak by the Cook Inlet Tanaina, sold to the Chugach, who in turn had sold him to the Eyak, and the last to the Yakutat. His name was "Noyak-Koin" ("Nojak-Koin," Pallas, 1793, vol. 6, p. 232), and he became valuable to the Russians because he spoke both Kodiak Eskimo and "Koliuski" (Yakutat). "The price of his purchase was four pounds and a quarter of iron, a large coral, and three strings of beads, and he was employed as an interpreter" (Coxe, 1803, p. 329). The other boy was "Nachu-Seynatzk" (probably Naxusenatsk, although I cannot identify the name), "a native Tschitskan [who] understood the Tschitskan [Sitkan] and Koliuski languages. . . ." By this it is implied that the "Koliuski" of Yakutat was either a non-Tlingit language, or a dialect of Tlingit, different from that spoken at Sitka. This boy "was extremely useful in pointing out many rivers on the American coast, and particularly the Bay Ltoua [Lituya]." He was exchanged for the Russian's Chugach hostage, who had been so prostrated with seasickness that he will- ingly left the ship (ibid.). "In addition to his purchases he [Ismailov] ob- tained a large number of skins from his Kadiak hunters, who in their bidarkas could go far out to sea, where the open wooden canoes of the Thlinkeets did not dare to follow. In order to draw attention from this rivalry ceremonious visits and exchange of presents were kept up." [Bancroft, 1886, p. 269.] This last refers to the meeting of the Russians with an important Chilkat chief who had come to Yakutat to trade. Perhaps the wealth of furs secured by the Rus- sians had been gathered in anticipation of this chief's visit. The Russians supposed the latter to be the para- mount chief of the Yakutat area. As they had gathered from the local natives: "Besides an inferior Toion [chief], they are all subject to a superior Toion, who is called Ilchak. We were informed by the natives that this Toion, with one hundred and fifty of his subjects, exclusive of children, visited this place in baidars [presumably dugouts]. He has two sons, whose names are Nekchut and Chink, and his principal residence is on the coast to the south east, much farther than the great river Tschitskat.[42] It borders on the frontiers of the people called Tschitskanes, who, Like the Koliuski, are at enmity among themselves, and often assault ? Does thia refer to LaPe'rouse, to Europeans in Prince William Sound, or to some unreported vessels in Yakutat Bay? 11 Sea otter, wolverine, marten, beaver (Pallas, 1793, vol. 6, p. 232). 42 "His proper living place is on the coast on the southeast side, much farther than that near Lituya, on the great river Tschitschchat" (Pallas, 1793, vol. 6, p. 228). Is this the Chilkat River? Krause (1956, p. 28) so indicates in one passage, but in another (p. 65) renders it as "Tschitschat (Tatshenshini) River," a tributary to the Alsek, on the overland route between Dry Bay and Chilkat country. This interpretation would make the "Tschitschat," or "Tschitschchaner" of Pallas, the Southern Tutchone, not Chilkat or Sitka Tlingit. IN THREE PARTS THROUGH ALIEN EYES 135 each other. This Toion rules over all the Koliuski, who inhabit the coast, as far as the bay of Yakutat, which is the last place in his dominions." [Coxe, 1803, pp. 324-325.] "Ilchak," whom the Russians erroneously supposed to be the ruler of Yakutat, was actually Yelxak, the leading chief of the Raven GanAxtedi sib at the Chilkat town, Klukwan. In a Sitka version of the QakexwtE story (Swanton, 1909, Tale 32, pp. 161-165), Yelxak and his sib become embroiled with the Raven Tl'uk- naxAdi sib of the Yakutat-Dry Bay and Cross Sound areas. The latter sent a war party to Klukwan, where Yelxak lost his life in the fighting. Emmons (1916, p. 15) translates the name "Ilk-hak or Yehlh-kok" as "Raven fragrance or smell," and states that this is an ancient and honorable appelation among the GanAxtedi. In 1885 a man of this name seems to have been chief of the famous Whale House at Klukwan. One of our in- formants, who was a very small child in the 1880's, remembers that her Teqwedi grandfather at Yakutat used to trade with this chief. Swanton in 1904 recorded at Sitka an account of a potlatch given at Klukwan by Yelxak and another chief, to which the Sitka Kagwan- tan were invited (Swanton, 1908, pp. 438-443). The Chilkat chief in the QakexwtE story, who may well be the actual "Ilchak" whom the Russians met, was the son-in-law of an important Tl'uknaxAdi shaman, Yel-tlen, "Big Raven." According to my Yakutat informants, who also know the story (p. 274) but who are inclined to connect the war party with the swamping of canoes in Lituya Bay, Yel-tlen was a shaman who lived at Gusex on the Akwe River. His daughter, who married Yelxak, was probably a Teqewdi woman, for her sons, "Nekchut" (Nequt) and "Chink" (XEn&), had Teqwedi names that are well known at Yakutat. The first was the honorable name of William Milton (1888-1950), and the second that of a man who died between 1910 and 1920. The great chief, Yelxak, whom the Russians met, only seemed to rule at Yakutat because of the tremen- dous prestige accorded any chief of the powerful and aristocratic GanAxtedi sib and because of the domineer- ing superiority which the skillful Chilkat traders were able to attain over the less sophisticated Athabaskan, Eyak, and Interior Tlingit, with whom they traded. Even Swanton's storyteller at Wrangell, Katishan, chief of the Kasqaguedi sib, reports that Yel-tten, on receiving a gift of tobacco from his Chilkat son-in-law, said: " 'Chilkat is a respectable place. A lot of respect- able people live there. They are so good that they give food even to the people that were going to fight them' " (Swanton, 1909, p. 162). This surely indicates something of their reputation. The same impression of Chilkat wealth and prestige is conveyed in a story told by a Sitka Kagwantan man in which a man on the way to Klukwan is warned: " 'It is a notable town. A man has to be careful what he does there or he will suffer a great shame' "; and in the same story, a visitor from Chilkat to the Hoonah town of Grouse Fort is said to be so wealthy that people were afraid of him (Swanton, 1909, Tale 28, p. 71). On June 15, then, this great chief, Yelxak, came to the Russian ship, acompanied by a native artist. He was entertained in the cabin, and insisted upon being told all about the royal portraits hanging there. "Although we had already given the Toion and his subjects an account of these august personages, we again gratified his wishes" (Coxe, 1803, p. 330). The Russians, by their own account, certainly lost no opportunity to emphasize the benevolence and might of the Imperial rule, and gave the chief one of the copper coats-of-arms with which the expedition had been provided, in order to claim land for Russia. The chief "was requested to wear it upon the fore-part of his garment, and it would serve as a mark of fidelity, and protect his subjects against all foreign ships" (ibid, p. 331). The chief is reported to have listened to the discourse on Russian rule "with veneration and aston- ishment," and "received the coat of arms with extreme joy" (ibid., pp. 330, 331). The next day he returned with two elders, proudly wearing the emblem on his robe of sea otter, this time to request one of the por- traits. On the engraving of the Grand Duke Paul, which was given to the chief, the Russians wrote the following message: "In June, 1788, the Factor of the company of Golokof and Schelekof, the pilots Gerassim Ismaelof, and Dmitri Betscharof, of the galliot the Holy Fathers, with forty men, being in the bay of Yakutat, carried on a considerable traffic with the Toion Ilchack and his subjects the Koliuski, and finally received them under the protection of the Russian Empire. As a memorial of these events, we gave the said Toion a Russian coat of arms, on copper, and this engraving of his Imperial Highness the successor to the Russian throne. Orders are hereby given to all Russian and foreign ships sailing to this place to treat this Toion with cordiality and friendship, without omitting the necessary precautions: the said pilots who anchored here in the galliot from the 11th to the 21st of June, experienced from the Toion and his people, the most friendly behaviour." [Coxe, 1803, pp. 331-332.] It is not clear, however, how the date of their de- parture from Yakutat could have been written on a picture given away on June 16! To make doubly sure of Russian claims over the area, a copper plate (Number 9) was buried on June 18 near the mouth of the bay, apparently close to Ankau Creek. According to Bancroft (1886, p. 269, n. 30): 136 SMITHSONIAN CONTRIBUTIONS TO ANTHROPOLOGY VOLUME 7 "Two years later not a trace could be found of the portraits, medal, or copper plates. . . ." Although the chief had received the portrait "with extreme satisfaction, and as customary, with an extatic shriek," giving in return, "an iron image of a crow's head, which he considered as sacred; a bag woven from grass, and striped with various colours; six sea-otter shirts, also a leathern and [a] wooden table [tablets; zwey Tajeln, Pallas, 1793, vol. 6, p. 236] which were painted with diverse colours, and inlaid with stones," it is very doubtful that the worthy chief made these gifts "as proof of his subjection to Russia [!]" (Coxe, 1803, p. 332). The Russians sailed on June 21, apparently driven by the wind back toward the west, but hoping to be able to secure some fresh fish from the river which 18 days be- fore had been choked with ice. However, since they found no secure anchorage here they turned eastward again, passing Yakutat Bay on June 28. Natives came out in three canoes, evidently mistaking the Russian ship for another vessel, for when they discovered her identity, they returned to shore. The Russians sailed on along the low, sandy coast, passing the Antlin (Ahrnklin) River, and anchoring the next night to explore the Ralcho or Kalkhu (Italio), where they saw footsteps but no inhabitants, The next morning they passed the Alzec or Altsekh (Alsek River), "with a little island on the east side [Bear Island], and sand-banks at the mouth" (Coxe, 1803, p. 336). An onshore wind prevented them from entering Dry Bay, although they were confident that it was fre- quented by the "Koliuski." Later that morning they passed the Rakan-in or Kakan In (K'agAn hini?,, which "flows under the northeast side of a cape, and is also frequented by the Koliuski." Beyond this, "the coast was no longer flat or sandy" (ibid,), and since it was about 17 miles northeast of Lituya Bay, I suspect the stream was that just north of Cape Fairweather, where Waterfall House was built, or else the stream northwest of that (see p. 91). On July 1, the Tlingit slave boy pointed out the mouth of Lituya Bay, "which he informed us contained many fish, and in which a large ship had not long ago anchored" (ibid.). After some Koniags in baidars lashed together, and later Ismailov and 15 men in a large baidar had explored the opening, the ship finally entered the bay on July 5. At first the Russians anchored, as LaPe"rouse had done, on a rocky bottom too close to the mouth, then "towed the ship farther into the bay towards a little island, where two years before, according to the informa- tion of the Koliuski boy, a foreign ship had anchored." Some 5 hours later they were visited by the Tlingit, who came in "three baidars, and other small boats" (ibid., p. 338). The chief was "Taiknuck Tachtuiack," or "Taik- nuch-Tachtujach" (Pallas, 1793, vol. 6, p. 243), who came accompanied by two elders. He asked, through the interpreter, whence the strangers had come, and was given the same kind of speeches and Russian coat-of- arms that had been given to Yelxak. It is reported that this chief, too, "in the most solemn manner, expressed his full re- liance on the protection of the Russians, and his res- olution of perservering in his friendly behaviour. . . . From these circumstances he conceived such an ex- alted idea of the Russian power, that he not only received the gift with the highest degree of venera- tion; but presented nine sea-otter skins, and six sea- otter mantles, and requested that they might be forwarded to the all-powerful Empress, as proof of his gratitude and zeal. "We then traded with the natives, and exchanged for their skins and furs [beaver, sea otter, wolverine, and "sable," (Pallas, 1793, vol. 6, p. 244)], iron- kettles, clothes, and beads. In the afternoon they re- turned in their baidars to their dwelling-place, which was situated about a verst and a half [1 mile] from the ship. These habitations were temporary summer huts, while they were employed in procuring fish and other provisions. Their whiter habitations were sit- uated on the banks of a small river which falls into the sea, at the distance of about five versts and a half. [Here the] dwellings were much larger than the summer huts." [The mouth of the stream, the Huagin River?, was so blocked by rocks that even the baidar- kas had difficulty in entering (Coxe, 1803, pp. 339-340).] The Russians learned through their Sitkan slave boy that the previous summer a large ship and been in the bay but had lost her anchor, which the natives had hauled out at low water. The chief, "Taiknuck," had the anchor brought to the Russians, who found that it weighed 780 pounds although the ring and flukes were broken off. The identity of the ship is unknown, although Coxe (1803, p. 340 n.) erroneously supposed it to have been Portlock's! Again, as at Yakutat, the Russians buried another copper coat-of-arms on the shore of the bay, near Cenotaph Island, and the next day, July 6, after anchoring nearer the mouth of the bay, erected a wooden cross on the cliff above the eastern shore. Because of the bad weather, the galliot had to put out two small anchors, one of which, weighing 144 pounds, the natives stole during the night. As a gesture toward regaining it, the Russians sent some men in a baidar toward the shore; but the latter prudently did not attempt to land until morning, and then searched only along the beach and in the woods, where, of course, the anchor was not to be found. " . . . and IN THREE PARTS THROUGH ALIEN EYES 137 as we did not chuse to complain either of the Toion or his subjects, no further search was made" (Coxe, 1803, p. 342). It had been observed or concluded that although the natives of Lituya Bay had their own chiefs, they were believed to be all subject to Yelxak, and it was noted that their manners and customs were similar to those of the Yakutat natives. Since scurvy had begun to appear, the Russians sailed on July 9, reaching Kodiak on July 15. Bancroft (1886, pp. 269, 270, note 31) has stressed that Ismailov's journal has not a word about Dixon's previous visit to Yakutat, although he must have heard of it (as he had evidently heard about Colnett's), and that Ismailov also fails to mention the monument left by LaPerouse at Lituya Bay, which indeed, he may actually have destroyed. At Lituya Bay, "many tools and implements [were] marked with the royal Jleur de lis. A small anchor similarly marked was secured." Bancroft suggests that these omissions probably reflect the secret instructions which Ismailov had received, ". . . for even business letters from the [Aleutian] islands to Siberia were in those days frequently tam- pered with by the authorities of Okhotsk and Kamchat- ka, and it was to the interest of Shelikof and his partners to have English claims to prior occupation ignored." The official reports sent to the Empress by Ivan A. Phil (or Pil), Governor-General of Irkutsk, on February 13 and 14,1790, about the explorations of the Shelikhov- Golikov Company, are of interest in this connection. The discoveries of Ismailov and Bocharov are thus Us ted: "Yakutat Bay. This is inhabited by the Koloshes who border the Chitskanes. In view of the fact that they have been induced to assume a peaceable atti- tude towards the Russians, a board was left there, which is designated on the map by the letter '?,' also one emblem and, for special reasons, one portrait. The toyon of the place, in token of his submission to Russia, brought over a few articles. Considerable trade was carried on here, and in [1]788 a three- masted foreign vessel was anchored in the harbor. In the coastland opposite there are the following rivers: the Antlin, Kalkhu, Altsekh, and Kakan In. "Litua Bay. It is inhabited by the Koloshes who have been brought under domination. One emblem and one board, number 19, were left there. The toyon, as a token of his loyalty, made a gift of one sea-otter. All these islands and bays, as well as those not enu- merated here but mentioned in the first memorandum abound in timber and other resources. As for the inhabitants, they have already become more attached to the Russian traders than to the foreigners who used to visit them." [Andreyev, 1952, p. 117.] 265-517?72?vol. VII, pt. 1 11 [These same documents stress the friendliness of the natives and their devotion to the Russian crown:] "The Koloshes and Chitskanes, who inhabit these parts [Yakutat and Lituya Bays], have been con- quored by no one and, in their ignorance, have not been aroused to oppose your subjects. In spite of everything, even of opposition to their savagery, they all with one mind, as a result of the affable attitide towards them on the part of the Company, came not only to understand the grandure of Your Empire but to give themselves up into complete obedience to it. "In conclusion it may also be mentioned that the two emblems with the proper inducements and in- scriptions which the authorities had given them stimulated in them a sincere spirit of submissiveness and a readiness to accept anything proposed to them on the part of Your subjects. . . . Their frankness and their peaceable disposition exceed, it seems to me, the very bounds of probability, inasmuch as, without fear to speak out plainly, they regarded it as their direct obligation to satisfy Your subjects as to their condition and the contacts and trade relations they had had with other foreign vessels that had visited them." [Ibid., pp. 99-100.] We can be certain that none of the Indians or their chiefs believed that they were pledging submission to the Tsarina or to the Shelikhov-Golikov Company. The Tlingit had no conception resembling that of the Russians concerning the relationship between "rulers" and "subjects." They were familiar with that between owner and slave, but no free man became a slave unless he were captured in war, or might be forced through starvation to surrender his freedom in return for food. Certainly Yelxak of the Chilkat and "Taiknuck" at Lituya Bay were doing nothing of the kind. From their point of view they were conducting a profitable trade with due ceremonial procedure. Conceivably, they thought of the Tsarina and Tsarovich as new trade partners! One also wonders whether the copper coats- of-arms so carefully buried by the Russians and evi- dently later dug up by the natives were considered by the latter to be some kind of "copper," like those given and received at potlatches. One might even speculate that these medals and emblems might have furnished a prototype for the native 'tinna.' While it is clear that the Russian reports do not accurately reflect their dealings with the natives, it is not so obvious that these accounts are throughout consciously warped to deceive the Imperial authorities, as Bancroft suggests. The documents are certainly worded to create as favorable an impression as possible, since Shelikhov was then working hard, through his friend, Governor-General Phil, to secure an Imperial trade monopoly. However, there is additional, subcon- 138 SMITHSONIAN CONTRIBUTIONS TO ANTHROPOLOGY VOLUME 7 scious double-talk here, a statement of what the Com- pany would like to believe was the truth, and perhaps did come to believe: that the natives had voluntarily submitted to Kussian rule. For if this were true, then any resistence in the future would be not only ingrati- tude, but rebellion and treason, justifying any suppres- sive measures that might be expedient. This view of the situation, as characteristic of Russian official think- ing today as it was in the 18th century, must be kept in mind in considerating the activities of the Russian American Company and the fate of its colony at Yakutat. We have no further direct reports of Russian expedi- tions to the Gulf of Alaska and Yakutat Bay until Lieutenant Puget met Purtov with a baidarka fleet there in June 1794. Nevertheless, it is clear from the account of this meeting, as reported by Vancouver, as well as from reports of Baranov and Purtov, published by Tikhmenev, that the Shelikhov-Golikov Company had dispatched at least one expedition to Yakutat in 1793, and possibly the rival Lebedev Company, which had a post at Nuchek in Prince William Sound, may also have gone into the Gulf of Alaska. We cannot, however, trust the statements about voyages and posts which either of these Russian companies made to each other or to foreigners, for their agents did not hesitate to lie to outsiders about the extent of their operations in order to frighten off or discourage competition. This policy is made clear by the misleading reports of Delarov to the Spanish explorers, Martinez and Haro, in 1788 (Bancroft, 1886, pp. 271-273). Purtov also claimed to Captain James from Boston, whom he met in Prince William Sound in 1793, that "our stations extended from Kadiak to Ltua Bay" (letter of Baranov to Shelikhov, July 24, 1793, in Tikhmenev, 1863, vol. 2, Suppl., p. 44). The next summer Purtov himself was to discover that the Lebedev agent had apparently exaggerated to him the extent of that company's operations (see Purtov's letter, August 9, 1794, in Tikhmenev, 1863, vol. 2, Suppl., p. 61). Thus we do not know what faith to put in Purtov's statement to Lieutenant Puget in 1794 that hunters of the Shelikhov- Golikov Company had been taking sea otters on the "Pamplona Shoal," somewhere off the coast near Cape Yakataga. Douglas (1788) The Trekh Sviatiteli had barely returned to Kodiak Island, when Capt. William Douglas, in the Iphigenia Nubiana, sighted Mount Saint Elias on August 2, 1788 (Meares, 1790, pp. 287 ff.; Wagner, 1937, vol. 1, p. 210; Bancroft, 1886,p.267). Douglas, like Capt. John Meares in the Felice Adventurer, had sailed from China in January of that year on a fur-trading venture for the "Merchant Proprietors," an association of British businessmen in India and Canton. They sailed under the Portuguese flag in order to circumvent the monop- olies of the East India and South Sea Companies. (The following year their company was to merge with the King George's Sound Company in the undertaking which involved Colnett in trouble at Nootka.) In the summer of 1788, before joining Meares at Nootka, Douglas had visited Prince William Sound, where he had seen the inscription left by Colnett's supercargo at Port Etches. From here he sailed south- eastward to visit the Yakutat Bay area, August 2 to 5. According to Russell (1891 b, p. 62), he actually an- chored inside Yakutat Bay, but I can find no evidence that he saw Yakutat Bay at all. The weather on August 2 was cloudy; Mount Saint Elias and the shore were not uncovered until the ship had already passed the mouth of the bay and seems to have been about 23 nautical miles south of Ocean Cape (Meares, 1790, p. 321). [The next morning, August 3], "the jollyboat was dispatched, with orders to proceed within a mile of the shore, to examine if there was any appearance of inhabitants; and about noon she returned, in company with a large canoe, containing about thirty Indians. [The ship now anchored in 27 fathoms], and purchased of the natives several cotsacks or dresses of sea otter skins, and a pair of gloves of the same. The extremities of land, when at anchor, bore from West North West, to East by South half South distant four or five miles. The observed latitude was 59?10' North, and the longitude 221?27' East [i.e. 138?46' west of Greenwich]. [Meares, 1790, pp. 321-322.] [This suggests a position off the coast between the mouth of the Ustay-Akwe River and Dry Bay.] "Early next morning the people returned, as the sailors observed, with all their old cloaths, as the cotsacks they now offered for sale had been much worn: these articles, however, were purchased, with a quantity of salmon; and at nine o'clock they weighed anchor and proceeded along the shore [by noon reaching a position south of Dry Bay]. The place where the ship lay was called Tianna's Bay, in honour of the chief [a Polynesian from Hawaii]; he was indeed much dissatisfied with the present climate, against the cold of which he could not pro- tect himself, though he had as much cloathing on him as he could well carry, and was become very impatient to return to Owhyhee." [Meares, 1790, p. 322.] According to Dall and Baker, (1883, p. 206 and IN THREE PARTS THROUGH ALIEN EYES 139 accompanying chart; cf. also Davidson, 1869, p. 136), "Tianna Road," later changed to "Diana Roads," is the shoal water off the mouth of the Ahrnklin and Dangerous Rivers. From this place, Douglas had no further encounters with the natives until he reached Cape Cross on Yacobi Island, south of Cross Sound, where he records how a spirited Tlingit woman, apparently of high rank, beat into submission a male chief (of lesser rank?) who interfered with her trading activities. In fact, she supervised all the transactions of the natives. It will have been noted that a number of visitors to Yakutat and Lituya Bays have understood the natives to report the calls of vessels of which we have no record. As Fleurieu wrote in 1797 (1801, vol. 1, p. cxlvii): "It is probable that the ship-owners of the UNITED STATES, excited and encouraged by their govern- ment, have multiplied their expeditions to the NORTH-WEST coast of AMERICA; but no printed account has been made known to EUROPE the voyages that they have undertaken. Hitherto, the Americans act more than they write; let us wish, for the tran- quility of the world and the happiness of the human race, that the faculty of communicating our thoughts from pole to pole may ever be in their hands only a means of uniting and enlightening mankind, and that they may, at no time, abuse it for the purpose of agitating passions and overthrowing empires." Malaspina (1791) Although the Spanish had dispatched a number of exploratory expeditions to the Northwest Coast be- tween 1780 and 1790, for the purpose of claiming lands before the British could do so, none of these touched at Yakutat, even though several went to southeastern Alaska or to Prince William Sound (Wag- ner, 1937, vol. 1, pp. 202-205, 215-222). However, the Spanish government, since 1783, had been undertaking a program of scientific exploration to improve their hydrographic charts, and in 1788, Alejandro Malaspina, an Italian, and Jos6 Bustamente y Guerra, both commanders in the Spanish Navy, proposed an elaborate plan for a voyage around the world which was to include a scientific investigation of the Northwest Coast.43 Among the objectives were 43 Summarized by Fleurieu, 1801, vol. 1, pp. CLXIII-CLXV; Martin Fernandez de Navarrete in Galiano, 1802, pp. cxn- cxxin; Bancroft, 1886, pp. 274-275; Krause, 1956, pp. 23-24; Russell, 1891 b, pp. 63-66; pis. 5, 6; Wagner, 1937, vol. 1, pp. 225-229; see Malaspina, 1849 and 1885; Surla in Wagner, 1936, and Suria's plates in Guillen y Tato, 1932. to be the collection of "curiosities," i.e., geological, biological, and ethnological specimens for the Royal Cabinet, and these scientific investigations were to be carried out by naturalists, map makers, and artists. These plans, which remind us of the orders given to LaPerouse, were approved and two new corvettes built. The best chronometers were secured for deter- mining longitude, and Malaspina collected all available reports of earlier explorers, although he apparently did not get the best maps. Among those on board whose work is of most interest to us was Tadeo Haenke, a noted German botanist, and Tomas de Suria, the artist, whose pictures and journal give us so much information about Yakutat. Malaspina was also enjoined to investigate the claims made by Lorenzo Ferrer Maldonado that he had discovered the Northwest Passage in 1588, claims which Philippe Buache had resurrected and supported in an address to the Academy of Sciences in Paris, November 1790 (Navarrete and Navarrete, 1849, esp. pp. 228-250). It was these instructions which led Malaspina to investigate Yakutat Bay. Malaspina was ordered also to make a study of the social, political, and economic conditions of the Spanish colonies to be visited on his voyage. According to Wagner (1937, vol. 1, p. 226), Malaspina was "imbued with the doctrines of Rousseau," and although these were popular in Europe, Malaspina was far too ready "to reform everything and everybody," so that "to turn him loose in such closed possessions as the Spanish colonies was to invite disaster." It is no surprise, there- fore, that on his return to Spain he became involved in a court intrigue and incurred the enmity of Minister Godoy. As a result, he was thrown into prison, where he remained for 6 years, until Napoleon secured his release; moreover, all those who were writing reports of the scientific results of his expedition were ordered to abandon their work, and all of this material remained unpublished for many years. A summary of his voyage in which only the names of the vessels, not of their captains, were mentioned appeared in 1802, together with three of his charts (Navarrete in Galiano, 1802, and Atlas). A great deal of material relative to this voyage (journals, notes, drawings, maps) still remains unpublished in the Museo Naval at Madrid. I am indebted to Prof. Luis Pericot Garcia of the University of Barcelona, as well as to the authorities of the Museo Naval, for copies of many of the pictures drawn at Yakutat by Tomas de Suria; the Bancroft Library at the University of California, Berkeley, has also fur- nished me with copies of some.*1 The two corvettes, Descubierta (Discovery) under ** GuiUSn y Tato, 1932, pis. vi, ix, xi, xm, xiv, xv, by Surta- pertain to Yakutat. 140 SMITHSONIAN CONTRIBUTIONS TO ANTHROPOLOGY VOLUME 7 "p. o 13, 03 g 'a.I o IN THREE PARTS THROUGH ALIEN EYES 141 Malaspina and the Atrevida (Daring) commanded by Bustamente, finally sailed from Acapulco May 1, 1791, and on June 23 sighted Cape Edgecumbe, but did not stop here. Next day the Spaniards were gazing in admiration at the beauties of Mount Fairweather and the adjacent Gulf Coast. By noon of June 26, they were off what Cook had designated as Bering's Bay (i.e., Dry Bay), and approached the shore where several lights could be seen among the trees. The following day, June 27, they sailed to within 2 miles of the beach, from which position they saw the moun- tains back of "Bering's Bay," which proved that there could be no Northwest Passage here, and also noted the isolated little mountain or hill, which from a distance could be mistaken for an island (Bear Island in Dry Bay). From here they followed the low land to the north- westward, rounding Point Carew into Yakutat Bay, still early in the morning of June 27. They examined carefully the entrance to Port Mulgrave, but the opening in the mountains at the head of the bay sug- gested the Northwest Passage as Maldonado had described it, so they steered for it, carefully sounding all the way. Malaspina named Point Munoz on Khan- taak Island, and noted the lowlands on both sides of the bay and the foul ground off Khantaak Island. However, when barely off Knight Island, about 9 nautical miles below Point Latouche, where Maldonado's passage seemed to begin, they turned back to secure a safe anchorage. It was already apparent from the weak tides that there could be no Northwest Passage here; nevertheless, Malaspina decided to stay in Port Mul- grave to take on wood and water, while the longboats explored the head of Yakutat Bay. The ships apparently rounded the north end of Khantaak Island, discovering a small bay blocked by many islands (Colnett's anchorage?), and began to tack down the outer coast of Khantaak Island in order to enter Monti Bay. Here they encountered the natives. "In a little while we saw coming towards us at great speed two canoes of Indians which shortly arrived alongside. The first view, when they were near, was one of great astonishment, both for the Indians and for us; for the Indians because they did not cease looking at the ships, although they advised us and we soon verified it, that these were not the first that they had seen; for us, because such strange and marvelous subjects presented themselves to our sight. [And Suria goes on to describe the wild appearance of the skin-clad, painted men (see pp. 434-435).] As soon as they were close to the ladder all except the steersman stood up, and at the sound of a stentorian and frightful voice which the ugliest one, who was in the center, uttered, they all extended their hands together in the form of a cross . . . " [and began to sing what was evidently a song of peace and friendship (Wagner, 1936, pp. 247-248)]. [According to Malaspina, the ships were approached by two large canoes and a small one, which was evidently a two-hole baidarka.] "Almost at the same time that we had determined to tack and steer for anchor, both large canoes immediately came alongside the corvettes, but not without some show of fear. They followed entirely the orders or advice of a venerable old man who, in the small canoe, ranged now to the one, now to the other side, and who gave every indication of being the chief of the little tribe." [Malaspina, 1885, p. 155.] [After an exchange of friendly signs, the natives were invited on board, but the chief posted one of his sons in each canoe before he boarded the Atrevida (ibid., p. 346).] "We received them kindly at first with sea biscuits, salt pork, and tallow, and later acceeded to their insistance that as many of our men descend to the canoes as hostages as the number of them who came on board. In this fashion they were soon convinced of the safety of our peaceful intent, and since we did not neglect at the same time to give some trinkets to those who had first come aboard, after half an hour hostages were no longer necessary, nor was there need to urge them on our part, the more so, since one could see in almost all of them a great propensity to slip below decks, no doubt with a mind to steal some or other of the trinkets which were on hand. "They continued on board until afternoon; in all their actions they manifested a lively and happy spirit. Since our troups and seamen did not hesitate to give away a good part of their rations and clothing, much importuning was necessary to get them into their canoe and get it away from the side of our ship," [since it was likely to be damaged when the ship tacked.] [Malaspina, 1885, pp. 155-146.] Apparently the canoes followed the ships all afternoon, the occupants "always singing songs which, although harsh on account of the pronunciation, were not very disagreeable," while the chief in his baidarka acted as song leader (Wagner, 1936, p. 248). Finally, the corvettes beat their way around Point Turner and anchored in 12 fathoms, mud bottom, in front of "an islet rancheria," not more than a cable's length or pistol shot from shore. This was evidently in Port Mulgrave, in front of the same native settlement that Dixon had visited. Suria found the bay "very beautiful, all surrounded with various rocky islands, covered with big pine forests which present a very beautiful view" (ibid., p. 248). Even while the vessels were coming into the harbor, " many canoes came out to meet us, repeating several times the hymn of peace, 142 SMITHSONIAN CONTRIBUTIONS TO ANTHROPOLOGY VOLUME 7 P I 3 O o c S 8" ii I IN THREE PARTS THROUGH ALIEN EYES 143 at other times a general harmonious call apparently of invitation or admiration, and offering for trade more salmon and wooden artifacts than sea otter ["nutria"] pelts which could yield a considerable value. Silently and not without fear, they admired our lowering of the smaller boats, particularly the launch, into the water" (Malaspina, 1885, p. 156). Now, at 9 p.m., the natives and Spaniards took leave of each other with further signs of friendship. The welcome of the corvettes in Port Mulgrave by the native canoes is depicted by Surla in a hitherto un- published sketch in the Museo Naval (pi. 40). Malaspina was delighted with the anchorage, not only for the sake of his ships, but because: "the natives were near at hand and numerous enough to study their customs without suspicion or molesta- tion, and water, wood, ballast, fish, and vegetation, everything we needed, was so close at hand that to bring them on board could hardly be called a bother. [Malaspina, 1885, p. 156.] "The village [on Khantaak Island] west of the anchorage consisted of six or seven hovels, carelessly constructed of a few props covered with boards so poorly arranged that wind and water were admitted to the interior. But at the same time that, we remarked this slovenliness in the construction of the huts, we noted the care with which then* canoes were made and the trouble they suffered from the rain and cold, which made us believe that they possessed other habitations more sheltered from the winter." [Mala- spina, 1849, p. 248.] The settlement seemed to be inhabited by about 80 persons, the rest of the tribe being scattered about on the surrounding islands. The next morning Malaspina went on shore with an escort of officers, soldiers and armed sailors, and was received with the sign for peace and loud songs. The chief pointed out a source of fresh water, and an In- dian, "one of the agreeable ones who had been on board since early morning," served as a guide, going first to a nearby place which proved to be short on water (the pond on Khantaak Island?), then to the beach opposite, to the southeast (head of Monti Bay), where plentiful springs were found. Near here, the officers of the water- ing party also visited a hut which the guide indicated was his own. Here, "natural curiosity and admiration paid tribute to the nudity, filth and intimacy in which lived two wives and a number of children, as well as to the ornaments, clothes, foods, and utensils found there" (Malaspina, 1885, p. 157). The officers seem to have taken every opportunity of winning the friendship of the natives, learning the most useful words, and becoming acquainted with their customs. Since early morning many natives had been on board the corvettes, offering some skins, many fresh salmon, and several wooden utensils, in exchange for clothing and iron. "These were the only things they seemed really to yearn for, but they would accept all kinds of buttons, nails, and miscellaneous pieces of hard- ware. [Although Malaspina tried to curb the famili- arity between the natives and the crew, this proved impossible once trading had started.] As we judged from the eagerness of the participants, it might be inferred that our sailors could no more live without grabbing everything that they saw, than the natives without the cloth and iron for which they panted with so much reason. "The tricks used by the natives in their trading or bargaining have been very well described by Captain Dixon: They not only keep hidden the goods which they intend to trade, but also never act with greater indifference than at these times. After a delay, often of over an hour, in which they remain calm in the sight of the many objects pre- sented to them, they finally uncover a strip of skin, or a doll, or a spoon, or some other bagatelle, offering to trade it for everything they see. If they cannot appeal to the quality of the object, they appeal to its size and symmetry. Even after trade is agreed upon, the bargain may be rescinded. Finally, if there is some really fine skin among the things they bring, they will show it with so much mystery, put it back again right away, and show it again later, that they excite in the most indifferent mind a singular mixture of vexation and fancy, difficult to subordinate to the expression of interest alone. "One does not observe among them the least rivalry, either in buying or selling. Rather, all interests are united with admirable unanimity; they either consult among themselves to confirm the trade, or if they arrive at confirmation, they ap- plaud it with one, two, or three unanimous excla- mations, depending on whether they think the exchange has been more or less advantageous." [Malaspina, 1885, pp. 156-157.] An individual would cheer when he had made a profit- able bargain, and the whole group would shout "Wo!" which was believed to legalize the transaction. The Spaniards acquired for the Royal Cabinet a complete collection of native manufactures, including arms, hunting and fishing gear, domestic utensils, and some examples of weaving. This list included: figurines, wooden spoons, boxes, gaming sticks, water- proof cooking baskets, well-balanced stone hatchets and hammers, daggers, bows and arrows, wooden armor, and a blanket woven of "pine" (cedar) bark 144 SMITHSONIAN CONTRIBUTIONS TO ANTHROPOLOGY VOLUME 7 and trimmed with sea otter fur.45 As soon as they discovered the market for such articles, the Indian men and women began to make them for trade. They were particularly anxious to acquire warm clothing, in contrast to articles of adornment, while axes were the most desired of iron tools. The rate of one nail per salmon was established and maintained as long as the corvettes remained at Yakutat. This was not so much because nails were desired as because salmon were plentiful, Malaspina believed, for he reports that at first "the older son of the Ankau responded to this proposition by seizing a handful of nails and flinging them to the ground" (Malaspina, 1885, p. 348). On June 29, the observatory for checking the snips' position was put ashore. "The Indians continued to be very sociable and in return for clothes buttons, which they hang as pendants from their ears, gave us some rich, fresh salmon, at the rate of one for a button. The fish in the north is the most delicate thing which can be imagined. We could never satisfy ourselves with it notwithstanding that we ate an abundance of it. [This trading continued until July 2, with little to disturb it, but skins could be obtained only at great cost,] as there were some of the crew who for a third of one skin dressed an Indian from head to foot." [Wagner, 1936, p. 249.] Even beginning with the first day of their arrival, the Indians hospitably pressed upon the Spaniards the use of some women. At first the Europeans were uncertain that they had correctly interpreted the meaning of the signs, and decided to investigate. "Consequently, when directed by two youths who were repeating with a mysterious air the now familiar cry of 'Shout' [cawAt 'woman'], we approached some trees near the huts. Then any doubts were easily dispelled, for immediately four or five women ap- peared at the foot of the tree, partially covered with sea wolf [fur seal] skins, and at once obedient to the wishes of practically the whole tribe who seemed unanimously intent on prostituting them . . . [The women] certainly had a horrible appearance, and the considerable amount of grease and filth with which they were covered gave off an indescribably awful stench." [Malaspina, 1885, p. 157.] These women seemed terrorized and oppressed, and Malaspina concluded that they were slaves. Despite these friendly suggestions, Malaspina ordered armed vigilance at all hours, and the use of passwords 45 According to Gunther (1962, p. 48), "As much of the collec- tions from the Malaspina Expedition as reached Madrid" are now in the Museo de America. She saw only the catalog, but reports that the "documentation is poor. The collection is primarily from Alaska," i.e., from Port Mulgrave. at night to prevent a surprise attack. To avoid pro- voking any unfortunate incident, he prohibited any contact between the enlisted men and the women and children in the huts, while generous gifts were con- tinually made to the Indians. On their part, the latter were unwilling to let one of their numbers accompany the Spaniards unless the Europeans left a man with the Indians until the party returned (Malaspina, 1849, pp. 280-281; 1885, p. 157). The ordinary natives at Yakutat are described by Suria as: "of medium stature but robust and strong. Their physiognomy has some resemblance to that of all Indians, except that their eyes are very far apart and are long and full. The face is more round than long, although from the cheeks, which are very bulging, to the chin it is somewhat more pointed. Their eyes are sparkling and alive, although always manifesting a wild and untamed air, a consequence of the methods by which they are brought up. They have little beard although there is no general rule about this as I have seen some with a very full one. This and the hair of their head is so very thick that it looks like the mane of a horse. The women have the same facial characteristics and if it was not for the red ochre and black soot which they put on some of them would not be very ugly although in general I would not venture to say that they were good looking. "All of them, men and women, generally speaking, have something of Chinese features." [Wagner, 1936, p. 253.] The Spaniards were particularly impressed with the local chief, or "Ankau," whose title Malaspina used in naming Ankau Creek. His name is rendered as "June1," "Junue"," or "Junuelo," and the Spaniards ascribed to him greater powers than he actually possessed and also a wider dominion, since they called the tribe "Tejunfe," or "TejunueY' which is equivelent to "June's People" (Navarrete in Galiano, 1802, pp. cxvi, cxvii; Malaspina, 1849, p. 285; 1885, pp. 345, 350). The chief's name, which might be rendered as Hune or Xune, reminds us of the name of a Tl'uknaxAdi chief, ^one ("Q!one"'), of Gusex on the Akwe River.46 He appears in the Sitka story of the war between the Tl'uknaxAdi and the Chilkat GanAxtedi, in which Ismailov's Yelxak was killed (Swanton, 1909, Tale 32, pp. 160-165). In this version, the Kagwantan of Grouse Fort on Icy Strait had been entertained at a potlatch by the GanAxtedi of Klukwan. Some of Tl'uknaxAdi who had accompanied their Kagwantan 40 For the reputed origin of this name, ^one or Xone, see. Episode 5 of the Raven Cycle, "Raven in the Whale," p. 852. IN THREE PARTS THROUGH ALIEN EYES 145 brothers-in-law to Klukwan made a Raven Hat of their own, on which the figure of a Raven, with copper beak, wings, and tail, pecked at a copper plate, Xone wore this Raven Hat to a feast at Grouse Fort, where he and his clansmen spoke very disparagingly of the QanAxtedi, and to prove their own superiority, gave to their Kagwantan hosts the copper wings and plate from the Raven Hat. It was news of this insult which led to war between the rival Raven sibs. Yelxak is said to have been killed by a Tl'uknaxAdi man whose spear points were made of drift iron, and who wore a helmet representing the Monster Rat that lives under "the mountain Wasli'ca," i.e., Mount Saint Elias. This episode is given in some detail, because Malaspina's chief seems to have been involved in a war. The "Ankau" had first been entertained on the Atreinda, then requested permission to come aboard the Descubierta, where he was understood to offer lasting friendship to Malaspina. Suria has given us his portrait (pis. 44, 45), which Malaspina pronounced an excellent likeness, and also the following description: "The chief was an old, venerable and ferocious looking man with a very long gray beard, in pyrami- dal form, his hair flaccid and loose on his shoulders. False hair over it in various locks, without any order or arrangement, made him look like a monster. A large lion skin [Alaskan brown bear, according to Wagner] for a cape was gathered in at the waist and left entirely bare his breast, arms, thighs, and endow- ments, very muscular and strong. All gave him a somewhat majestic air, which he manifested by speak- ing but little, measuredly, and with a sound which at times seemed to be the bellow of a bull. At other times it was softer and in speaking to his sons it was sweeter than in conversation. [Wagner, 1936, p. 249.] [Malaspina found his presence worthy of respect, because of his age, stature, and vigor (Malaspina, 1885, p. 157).] [The chief was accompanied on board by two men, whom the Spaniards assumed were his sons. The elder was] "very ferocious and gigantic . . . [and] more than two yards tall, equally stout and muscular. He had his hair loose which, on account of its thick- ness, seemed like a horse's mane. It was very black like that of his beard. He was dressed in a black bear skin and very hairy, also in the form of a cloak which he fastened with some ornament, leaving bare at times all his nakedness, and passing to and fro over the quarterdeck, very proud and straight, his look full of ire, arrogant, and condescending." [Wagner, 1936, p. 249.] It is this man whom his father left in charge of the trading, and who preferred European clothing to any- thing else (Malaspina, 1885, p. 157). Suria also sketched him (pis. 46-48). The chief and his son explained by gestures that they had been visited by other ships. But what was puzzling was the chief's attempts to tell the story of some recent war. Malaspina understood him to mean that their enemies had been armed with six muskets, and that after some had been killed on both sides, the others had asked for peace. What caused the greatest confusion, however, was the impression that the enemy had a man on horseback. To demonstrate this, the chief called his son and put him in a quadru- pedal position, to show that the enemy was mounted. Such was Malaspina's interpretation (ibid., pp. 157, 345-346). Suria gives a briefer but more convincing account that: "What we could draw from all their signs was that a short time before they had fought some other cacique who had killed the son of their chief. They showed us his helmet which was of a figure, and an extraor- dinary construction of wood, copper, and of straw cloth, and with a mask in front which appeared to be a wolf" (Wagner, 1936, p. 249). It is further described as having three rings on top made of thin copper- plate (Malaspina, 1885, p. 158). The "straw cloth" is, of course, spruce root basketry. The chief had been so pleased with his own por- trait that he requested that Surfa make a picture of this helmet also, since it had been taken from the enemy chief. Although credited to Josef Cardero, who was never at Yakutat, the Museo Naval has what must be this picture (pi. 58). It is a helmet, or crest hat,17 surmounted by three basketry and three copper (?) rings, decorated with what appear to be copper wing- like plates at the sides, and with tufts of hair, even at the top, where the Tlingit hat of this kind usually flaunts a panache of ermine skins. It is impossible to tell what crest is represented by the carved and painted design: a Wolf, as Suria's description suggests, or possibly a Monster Rat or even a Raven, to fit Swan- ton's legend. Since we can be sure that no horse was on the coast of Alaska at this time, the Yakutat chief's demonstra- tion may have been simply to indicate the quadruped (Wolf?) that was the crest either of his enemy or of his own son. It is, of course, tempting to link Malaspina's chief of Port Mulgrave with the Tl'uknaxAdi chief from Dry Bay who fought the Chilkat. While Suria believed that it was the son of the "Ankau June" who had been killed in this war, Malaspina's reports make it clear that it was the father who was slain, and that his ashes were in the box held in the paws of an enormous Bear post in the nearby cemetery 47 McClellan, 1954, p. 96, has pointed out the similarity be- tween the helmet and the crest hat. Perhaps the latter is derived from the former. 265-5.17?72?vol. VII, pt. 1- -12 146 SMITHSONIAN CONTRIBUTIONS TO ANTHROPOLOGY VOLUME 7 (Malaspina, 1849, p. 289; 1885, pp. 345-346). If "June" belonged to the Raven moiety, as his name suggests, his father, who had also been a chief, would have belonged to the opposite moiety and might well claim the Wolf or Bear as his crest. The same would be true of "June's" son. If I were following my own informants' traditions of the past, I would consider "June" or ]vone to have been Kwac3sqwan, not Tl'xrknaxAdi?names did shift from one sib to another within a moiety, or were shared by them?and his father and his sons would have been Tlaxayik-Teqwedi. Perhaps %one was actually the chief Yaxodaqet, and at the same time the wearer of the helmet symbolizing the Monster Rat of Mount Saint Elias. If, however, the helmet or hat had been taken from an enemy chief, it is obvious that it portrayed the crest of its former owner, not that of the Yakutat "Ankau" or of his relatives. Moreover, Malaspina understood that the battle in which it had been secured had taken place at Port Mulgrave. Near the spot where the Spaniards established their observatory was the grave of a man who had been killed in these last fights. It was marked by a stick planted in the grass, and covered by a rush mat weighted down with stones. The natives showed considerable reluctance to approach the spot, and evidently did not want the Spaniards to do so, indicating by signs and silence that they were afraid of disturbing the dead (Malaspina, 1885, p. 159). (This grave must have been near the cemetery used until the earthquake of 1889.) What seems most likely is that the Yakutat chief was trying to tell by signs about a series of episodes, which the Spaniards naturally confused. The muskets, and the dead man, buried not cremated, may have nothing to do with a fight with other natives. The corpse may have been that of the man killed by one of Colnett's sailors some 3 years before. Certainly the Yakutat natives were familiar with Europeans, for Malaspina noted hatchets, cooking pots, silver spoons, some articles of clothing, and even three books, which he interpreted as relics of Dixon's visit, as he did the natives' insistence in offering the women. In fact, on one occasion the old chief had to be repri- manded for bringing a woman to the observatory, and the crews again had to be ordered not to go near the native huts. The younger Indians sang sea chanties, or repeated a few English words, as did three young women who came in a canoe under the stern of the Descubierto, where they not only called out in English but sang a native melody, which Dr. Haenke recorded. Eventually, of course, pilfering began. At first an iron padlock was taken, but was returned because the culprit was detained despite his threats with a dagger, and the chief was induced to make him restore it. On another day, when two marlin spikes were taken, the chief could apparently do nothing, although he at- tempted to placate the Spaniards, and explained that the thieves belonged to "a distant family," that is, were not members of his own sib or lineage (ibid., p. 158). In consequence, all natives were barred from the ships, and trading was limited to the open beach in front of the corvettes which could be covered by their guns. This was the treeless area, near Point Turner, some distance from any of the huts, and also the site selected for the observatory. The natives crowded about the observatory tent continually, wanting to look through the telescope and to examine all the instruments, so that everything, tent and all, had to be brought onboard each night. Despite these inconveniences, for Malaspina the Indians "could not have presented a more endearing aspect. We were familiar with the most necessary words of their idiom; we visited them openly in their huts. Don Tomas Suria could draw some of the women and represent the almost unbelievable quantity of domestic utensils. Trading had warmed up on both sides, and we had already been given permission to provide ourselves with the necessary wood in the vicinity of the houses without any preliminary agree- ment, to which, nevertheless, we would have im- mediately acceeded." [Ibid., pp. 158-159.] Early in the morning of June 30,48 the old chief and a dignitary came to the Spaniards at the observatory to announce, with apparent anxiety, that two canoes were coming, and were already only a mile or two away. Since it was not known whether they were friendly or hostile, the chief wanted the Spaniards to go to the front beach and fire a volley, which would force them to declare their intentions. Meanwhile, the tribe took up arms, launched two canoes, and the women retired. The Spanish, accordingly, went to the beach (on the western side of Khantaak Island?), where they could be seen, and fired a gun. At this signal, all the paddlers in the canoes, about 40, burst into a hymn of peace which they continued to sing as they approached the shore. Finally they drew up on the inner beach, while the old chief continued to shout to them to be careful, because the Spaniards were his allies. By now almost all fear of attack seemed to be dissi- pated, and although the Yakutat natives still kept their arms, they waded out to the boats to carry the leaders of the visitors ashore. The latter were at once presented to the Spaniards by the "Ankau". General peace making followed, the two parties embraced each other, and the visitors were led with joyful oratory to the huts. Except for the places where the women prepared skins or did 48 Or July 1 (Malaspina, 1885, pp. 345, 346). IN THREE PARTS THROUGH ALIEN EYES 147 the cooking, the two groups were now intermingled as if they formed one tribe (ibid., pp. 159-160). What the Spaniards had witnessed and taken part in, was not, as they had supposed, a narrowly averted hostile encounter, but the ceremonial reception of foreign guests, as at a potlatch. On such occasions, (McClellan, 1954: Swanton, 1908, pp. 434-443, 449; and see pp. 613-615), there are always two rival groups of guests, one local, one invited from a distance, between whom competition is symbolized as warfare followed by peace making. A common feature is the brandishing of weapons and firing of guns, either by the hosts or by the local guests, in welcoming the visitors; the latter may also fire volleys. It is the duty of the host chief to prevent, if he can, the rivalry between his guests from leading to actual fighting. As McClellan has pointed out (1954, p. 96), the emphasis on symbolic warfare in the accounts of potlatches that appear in Swanton's Tlingit Myths and Texts (1909), as well as in the actual conduct of potlatches, including the hostility between guest sibs, the use by hosts and guests of 'sib brothers- in-law' as go-betweens who are called 'deer,' like peace hostages, the similarity between crest hats and war helmets, and so forth, "all suggest an intriguing re- lationship between the potlatch, the peace ceremony, and warfare, which should be more fully explored." While it would appear that the visitors greeted by Malaspina in Port Mulgrave had probably not come to a potlatch, much of the same formality was character- istic of Tlingit intertribal trade, which also involved some of the ceremonial of war and peace. It is quite probable that the visitors of June 30 had come because they had learned of the presence of the frigates. The newcomers had brought some good sea otter skins which they offered to the Spaniards that same after- noon, each seller accompanied by a member of the local group. There was the same enthusiasm for acquiring European clothing, and apparently some of the seamen gave away garments that were worth more than the current market value of skins at Canton. "Still, it was a singular and curious sight to see at the same time a good half of the old tribe and some of the new, dressed so strangely in the old uniforms of the soldiers, and in the sailors' jackets, caps, pants, underwear, shirts, etc.," which might give the impres- sion that the natives had assassinated the crew of a Spanish vessel (Malaspina, 1885, p. 161). The Spaniards took advantage of the many specta- tors to demonstrate the power of their guns. Apparently one of the Indians believed that he could make his clothing bulletproof by soaking it, but when one of the officers shot a hole through it, he became bitterly angry. Meanwhile the scientific observations could be car- ried out in peace, because the natives were busy else- where. Everything was also proceeding calmly at the watering area at the head of Monti Bay. One of the officers here made friends with a native family, observed various domestic customs, and also acquired a few items of women's dress and ornaments, which are, unfortu- nately, not specifically described. This officer also located the cemetery on Ankau Creek which Dixon had visited. The next day, July 1, a party of officers and the painter Suria went to the cemetery, near which they met five natives who were picking strawberries. The latter were judged to be members of the lower class and probably ignorant of local traditions, but therefore unlikely to interfere with the Spaniards, especially since the latter loaded them with gifts. Suria meanwhile sketched the framework of what seemed to be an old winter house, and two grave monuments, one old and the other new. One of the boxes with calcined bones from the older monument was taken for the Royal Cabinet, apparently without native objections. (The description of this cemetery is given on pages 540-542.) While the Spaniards were interested that the Yakutat people seemed to have one male and four or five female slaves, assumed to be captives from another tribe,49 the Indians, on their part, were convinced that a native Filipino sailor on the Atrevida was also a sla~ve. "From the first day they visited the corvette, the inhabitants had taken him for one of their own, had tediously ex- amined his hair, his skin, the features of his face, and his body members, and then asked him to stay in the tribe. And they inquired how he came to be among us, and whether he had been sold or captured" (ibid., p. 161). On July 2, Malaspina set off with two longboats to explore the head of Yakutat Bay, leaving Bustamente in charge of the anchored corvettes. As will be seen, trouble with the Indians at Port Mulgrave broke out almost immediately. The two boats, rowing up the bay and sailing when they could, noted floating ice along the western shore, and smoke rising from one of two places on the eastern flatlands where the natives lived. When near what I believe was the sealing camp at Tlaxata, below Point Latouche, a canoe came out to meet them with a single Indian. This was the son of the Port Mulgrave chief, who had been on board the ships many times. He was now dressed in trousers, shirt, and cap, and to Malas- pina appeared much more humanized and curiously gentle. He came on board the longboat of the De- scubierta and explained that he was the chief of a nearby settlement, where his women and children lived, 49 The chief indicated that the male slave was obtained from the same tribe that had sent the canoes on July 1 (or June 30) Malaspina, ]885, p. 347, note 1). 148 SMITHSONIAN CONTRIBUTIONS TO ANTHROPOLOGY VOLUME 7 tlfl iNifEtc lie!. j Jc 0 rdA .3 i . ( ti.ahhul.JS!. 59.51.10. t - ]?cnritoj...i3.?v.2?eo4ot 3 3 $ ffl .id ? 3 f ?' * ?ackqwan man of Fort House, while the latter was lying wounded after his encounter by the bear, although the picture is ascribed to Taber of San Francisco (pi. 81). Since Topham wished to hire some local Indians, in addition to the four whom he had brought from Sitka, and to secure a canoe, the explorers and de Groff paid "a state visit to the chief, who had donned his best clothes for the occasion. He had on an evening dress waistcoat and trousers, and a naval cap; and he stood, surrounded by his dirty family, at the foot of some feather mattresses, on which he requested us to be seated. He was much more interested in our clothes than in answering our questions about IN THREE PARTS THROUGH ALIEN EYES 195 canoes and men; but he made great promises of assistance, more in fact, than he had the power to keep, and he made us promise, on our part, to give him, upon our return, so many of our clothes that we should have been reduced to a state of nature if we afterwards adhered to our word." [Topham, 1889 b, p. 347.] Topham is apparently not bothered by his own insincerity because he feels that the chief was also promising what he knew he could not perform (Topham 1889 a, p. 426), yet it is possible that the amiable chief was not so much trying to deceive his White visitors as to please them by saying what was agreeable. Topham hired "Gums" who had been with Schwatka in 1886, but then encountered difficulties and delays. As he observed: "An Indian will notbehurried" (1889 b, p. 347). And further: "Before deciding upon a thing Indians have to do a lot of talking. They talk the matter over with their families, and with the medicine man. Of these last there had been two in the settlement, but one of them, luckily for us, disappeared in a rather curious way. He went out in his canoe halibut fishing, and a very large halibut took his bait?and it took the doctor too. Neither fish nor doctor were ever seen again." [Topham, 1889 a, p. 426.] One reason for the reluctance of the Yakutat natives to settle quickly on Topham's terms was that the latter, while in Sitka, had hired and subsequently discharged a native from Juneau nicknamed "Dick the Dude."67 He was a "mission Indian," who built what has been described as "almost the best house in Sitka," at the northern end of the Indian settlement, giving for it a house-building potlatch in 1892 which cost about $500 (Stevenson, 1893, p. 82). This man had sent ad- vanced word to Yakutat, via some Indians who came in a canoe to visit friends, that some wealthy "King George Men" were on their way, who were very anxious to hire packers and would pay good wages. Topham believed that it was partly in anticipation of his arrival that the Yakutat natives had delayed starting their annual sea otter hunt (it was then early in July). Although Williams (1889, p. 389) reports that: "The inhabitants evinced a sort of stupid interest at our coming . . ." yet they "stood out for three dollars a day for some time," which was the wage for White men, not for Indians. Because his four Sitkans and his two white porters made him relatively independent of local labor, as the Yakutat realized, Topham finally got the latter to come to terms, but not before he had threatened to go away if they did not supply men and 67 Is this George Dick, "Don-Nah-icth," or DAna-'ic, 'Dollar Father,' who was a song leader at the Sitka potlatch of Decem- ber 9, 1904? (Cf. pi. 210d and pi. 211Z). canoes at once. Thus, he was able to rent two large Haida canoes, bought a small forked-prow canoe "of the Yakutat pattern" (Topham, 1889 b, p. 348), hired four natives for two dollars a day, and two more White men for three dollars a day. This difference in rate prevailed despite the accepted dictum that Indians "are generally capable of carrying heavier loads than white men . . ." (Williams, 1889, p. 387), for they could not yet be trusted as equally reliable. Now the party was ready to start for "Icy Bay," but the Indians reported the weather unfavorable. Although admitting that he had to rely on their judgment in such matters, Topham ordered them to go. ". . . the village has turned out en masse to see us depart, and the chief, in his robes of state with his infant son in his arms, is standing at the edge of the water, so that he may be in- cluded in the photograph which de Groff is to take" (Topham, 1889 b, p. 348). The scene illustrated in Williams (1889, p. 391) is based on this photograph (pi. 70). Around the point, the Indians again proph- esied what Topham understood was a storm, and de- manded to return, just so they could be present at a feast in the village that night, Topham thought. Williams, while describing their conduct as "aggravating," explains that they were waiting for a favorable breeze because they (understandably) preferred sailing to paddling 55 miles, although the Whites were more con- cerned to land while the surf was low than when whipped up by a southeast wind. Nevertheless, they did turn back, and the Whites spent a miserable time ashore, "surrounded by dirt and dogs. These dogs are every- where; they are innumerable. They steal everything they can get at and are very clever in their methods of searching after food," even digging under the walls of the tent if they could not force the door (Topham, 1889 b, p. 348). Next morning, the expedition started in earnest. Although the Indians could not understand the White man's hurry: "We finally succeeded in making them do as we pleased by threatening to proceed in the Alpha" (Williams, 1889, p. 390). A favorable breeze gave the party the delightful experience of sailing, and of seeing the skill with which the Indians landed the canoes in spite of the surf (see Williams' description on page 343). Landing was made at the delta of the Yahtse (Yase') River, whence one canoe and its crew were to return to Yakutat. The Indians wanted to stay to fish, and, more- over, Topham had promised that they would be paid so much a day until they reached home. Finally a com- promise was achieved, whereby the Indians were to be paid for three more days; they could leave when they liked, but were not to depend on the expedition for food. Now the party began to ascend the course of the Yahtse River, "Gums" leading the way by virtue of his prior experience with Schwatka. Topham complained 196 SMITHSONIAN CONTRIBUTIONS TO ANTHROPOLOGY VOLUME 7 that at first the Indians laid down their packs every few hundred yards. He ordered them not to stop until he himself did so. This seemed to work well until they came to an irresistable strawberry patch, where the natives (and I imagine the Whites, too) gorged for 20 minutes. That the Indians may have been glad of a rest is understandable, since Williams reports: "Our native packers carried from seventy to ninety pounds, our white men from sixty to eighty" (1889, pp. 390- 392). The party also had to cross glacial streams. "Curi- ously enough the Indians seemed to prefer wading to walking over dry ground. The first day out, they took us through deep water no less than ten times in the course of half an hour, much of which could have been avoided, as we subsequently found, by making a short detour through the woods." (Ibid., p. 401.) The jovial "Gums," in fact, apparently found it amusing to trick the Whites in this way, especially since he told the miner, Shorty, who used to wade barefoot, that they had passed the last stream, and as soon as the latter had resumed his boots, led him across three more! It is evident that the hardy conditioning which the native men had undergone since childhood enabled them to stand much more cold than the Whites could tolerate. " 'Gums' was in his element. He thoroughly enjoyed the water, and sometimes he would stand half-way across a stream with the water up to his chest, with his arms folded, and with a grin of delight upon his huge gums, waiting calmly whilst the rest of us shivered across" (Topham, 1889 b, p. 352). On the return journey, when the river was very high and wading was so difficult that the shortest Indian had to be relieved of his load, lest he be swept off his feet, "Gums" crossed the stream, dropped his pack on the bank, "and returned to the deepest part where he literally took a bath with all his clothes on and seemed to re- joice in our unsuccessful efforts at finding a shallow place for crossing. The water coming directly from the glacier was so cold that we white men were only too glad to get out of it, but its temperature seemed to have no disagreeable effect on the Indians" (Williams, 1889, p. 401). The Indians also proved themselves capable of negotiating the ice, for they helped to carry supplies up the Agassiz Glacier (a branch of the Malaspina) to a campsite at the base of the Chaix Hills. "Most of our Indians had never been on ice be- fore, yet they carried their loads of eighty or ninety pounds over rough and slippery places with com- parative ease; more than once we took great pains to cut steps across an ice-slope to prevent anyone from slipping; but they generally disdained using them, crossing either just above or just below where we had prepared the way. They refused to wear the shoes with nails he had provided for them, preferring their moccasins; several reached camp one night with bleeding feet, but they nevertheless persisted in using their own footgear. We subse- quently discovered that one of their objects in so doing was to avoid wearing out good shoes in our service." [Williams, 1889, p. 393.] Their concern to acquire or preserve White man's footgear reminds us of Schwatka's experience. Yet we must also recognize that stiff-soled leather boots would have been intolerable to feet that had never worn anything heavier than soft moccasins. Nevertheless, the Indians did not like the glacier. Two were left at the upper camp with George Broke, who had suffered an accident, while the remaining Whites made their unsuccessful attempt to scale Mount Saint Elias. The two Sitkans were not happy that they had been chosen to remain because they were the most reliable, and envied those who had been sent back to the shore. "They expressed a decided desire to go no farther; they said they were afraid, and spent the greater part of the time during our absence in chanting mourn- fully. When asked why they chanted, they answered, 'Indians have sick tumtum, and want go home.' The word tumtum means a variety of things, from a bootjack up to the soul. This time it meant 'mind, spirit,' and implied weariness." [Topham, 1889 a, p. 429.] There seems to have been no difficulty at launching the two canoes at "Icy Bay." The large one carried 12 men, all the baggage, and the remaining food; the smaller Yakutat canoe held only 4 men. They reached Yakutat on the morning of August 8, after sailing and paddling about 14 hours. The Indians were glad to return, but we do not know if they were satisfied with their wages, or if the chief was satisfied with what Topham may have left him in fulfillment of the original bargain. We should note that Topham's manner, which seems to have been rather autocratic and peremptory, may have prevented him from receiving information of value. Thus, after his return to Port Mulgrave, having failed to reach the summit from the south side: "I was told subsequently by George, the second chief at Yakutat, that he had once made a journey after goats towards the north of the peak, and that the northern sides were much less steep than the southern, and were covered with snow. He landed further west than we did, near a river similar to the Yahtse'-tah [Duktoth River?], and made three days' journey inland over ice. It is characteristic of the Indian character that he never said a word of this IN THREE PARTS THROUGH ALIEN EYES 197 till our return to Yakatat. Until the Indians are sure of your good intentions, they will give you no help." [Topham, 1889 a, p. 432.] Of course, it is possible that Topham neglected to ask George for bis advice. However, the latter did tell Topham about the ancient village which was over- whelmed by the glacier in Icy Bay (see p. 286). Williams sums up the character of the Yakutat as follows: "The average Indian is a competent being, though it takes some time to discover his good points. He is quick at grasping ideas, and is especially good at imitating what others have done. But it requires great patience in dealing with him, the more so since he deals with the white man at arm's length. He is exceedingly distrustful, nor does he cease to be so until he has become thoroughly convinced of the honest intentions of the stranger." [1889, p. 393.] Skill at imitation is probably a result of the native methods of education, that stress watching and doing on the part of the child, rather than following purely verbal instructions. Quiet listening is also better than asking questions (see pp. 508-514). Since the Alpha, which was supposed to pick them up, was delayed, the expedition split up for the return to Sitka. Williams took advantage of the unexpected chance to go back on the Active, "a small schooner which was already crowded with miners" (Williams, 1889, pp. 401-402). A week later another member went in a native canoe, the voyage taking 7 days. At Sitka, the Leo, a schooner with auxiliary engine, was chartered to fetch the remainder of the party. This vessel sprang a leak in a gale and had to return to Yakutat for repairs, so did not reach Sitka until September 17. Miners, Missionaries, and the U.S.S. Rush (1888-90) Although members of Topham's expedition were in and out of Yakutat over a period of 2 months during what is reported to have been the height of the gold excitement, we hear little about it from them, other than that two miners were extracting $20 a day in gold from the black sands of Khantaak Island (Top- ham, 1889 a, p. 426). In reviewing the events of the preceding decade, the Census of 1890 (Porter, 1893, p. 230) reports that these gold-bearing sands had been discovered in 1887 and that the next spring some 40 to 50 prospectors went to Yakutat. They staked out many claims that summer and the next, then all but abandoned the ground. This was because a storm piled the beach with dead dogfish, the oil from which saturated the sand and prevented the use of mercury to extract the gold, and soon after another storm washed away most of the beach. Still, in July 1891, three miners were working the sands, and sluiced out about $3,000, getting as much as $90 in 10 hours' work. There is also a report of gold-bearing sands found earlier, resulting in a flurry of excitement in 1886-87. This may have been at Logan Beach above Knight Island, or at Black Sand Island off the mouth of the Situk (Porter, 1893, p. 53; Tarr and Butler, 1909, p. 165). Seton-Karr had visited the black sands on Khantaak Island in 1886, and reports that the pros- pectors who had previously come up on a naval vessel became discouraged when some of their party acci- dentally drowned shortly after their arrival, so that the rest simply returned to Sitka (1887, p. 55). If sluicing gold during the summer of 1888 had seemed very profitable it is unlikely that Topham could have hired four miners as porters. We should note that already by August 15, the schooner that took Wil- liams back to Sitka was filled with miners leaving the area. The boom was evidently over. John Dalton who had served as camp hand for Schwatka had either remained in Yakutat or had returned, for Topham mentions (1889 a, p. 425) his discovery of coal fields up Yakutat Bay in 1887. These were above Esker Creek near Bancas Point, where Dalton and his partner or partners sank several shallow shafts to reach the veins of lignite, before abandoning the project. Russell in 1891 was to seak shelter in the cabin which these miners had built and abandoned (Russell, 1893, p. 67). Prospectors were evidently moving freely about the country, for Topham (1889 a, p. 425) met a miner who had traveled alone from Dry Bay to Yakutat. Dalton and a companion, while prospecting for gold, had gone above Haenke Island to the head of Disenchantment Bay, and apparently into Russell Fiord, the first White men to do so (Russell, 1893, p. 84). The miners at Yakutat certainly produced effects on the native population at Yakutat, even though we cannot specify these exactly. One of the prospectors, Steve Gee, stayed to marry a Kwacli:qwan girl, Annie (1877-1915), and this same man, in 1917 or 1918, is said to have built the first jail at Yakutat for the Reverend Axelson, who was also U.S. Commissioner. Other miners doubtless established relations with native girls; in fact, it was not long before White men came to have the reputation of falsely promising marriage, or a permanent alliance, only to abandon their child and the mother, even though there were men with more sense of responsibility. Some of the native women on Khantaak Island apparently earned 198 SMITHSONIAN CONTRIBUTIONS TO ANTHROPOLOGY VOLUME 7 something by washing the prospector's clothes. Not all intercourse between the Indians and the miners was on an amicable basis, even though Topham and Williams give no information about this. However, Mrs. Shepard, visiting Yakutat in the fall of 1889 on board her husband's ship, the U.S. revenue cutter Rush, reports that two White men had been murdered in 1887, if indeed, she is correct about the date and is not confusing this incident with the murders of 1880. "Two years ago [1887] there were two white men wantonly murdered a few miles from Yakutat. They, with two Indians, had gone out on a hunting ex- pedition. Their wood gave out and the two white men went a short distance from their camp, together in a boat, to procure some, leaving their guns behind them. On returning they were met by the two In- dians, who fired upon them with then- own guns, killing one of them instantly, the other, still par- tially alive, was finished with the stab of a knife. One of the Indians was caught, taken to Portland, tried and hanged; but the principal one, it is rumored, is still at large. The second chief of the Yakutat tribe (I did not learn his name), of the smiling coun- tenance, went to Portland and testified against the murderer who was hanged. It was an event which forever afterward raised him to pre-eminence in the eyes of the rest of the tribe." [Shepard, 1889, p. 232.] The Reverend Albin Johnson, missionary at Yakutat from 1889 to 1905, tells almost the same story but without giving any date (Johnson, 1924, pp. 115-116). The murdered White men had been prospecting for gold when they were killed, and when the two natives were seized by the U.S. warship they confessed their crime. The chief who went to Portland, Oregon, to see them hanged was George "Naa-kaa-nee," i.e., nakani, 'sib brother-in-law.' This is not a proper name, but denotes a chief's relative who, by virtue of his marriage to a woman of importance in another sib, is chosen to act as go-between, peace-maker, ambassador, or chief of protocol, in some ceremony involving his own sib and that of his wife (see pp. 494-495). My inform- ants identified him as the Kwackqwan chief, known as Yakutat Chief George Yaxodaqet (pi. 64), who be- came the most important man in Yakutat after the death of the Teqwedi chief Yanatcho, or Minaman (see p. 201). Yakutat Chief George Yaxodaqet is evidently "George, the second chief," of other writers, although the natives gave the name "George Second Chief" to his younger brother, Qa'A, who is said to have died "crazy from too much religion." His older brother died about 1903. Reverend Johnson reports that Chief George was noted as a friend of the Whites and es- pecially of the missionaries, a brave and skillful hunter. It is surprising that no mention is made by Topham and Williams of the beginnings of the Mission at Yakutat. According to the Reverend Hamilton, whom I knew at Yakutat in 1949 and 1954, the Covenant Mission was started by one of two men from Sweden who had originally wished to go to Siberia as mission- aries. Unable to enter Siberia from Sweden, they came to Alaska, but also failed here to get the necessary permission to go to Siberia. One, the Reverend Axel Karson, went to Unalaklik, an Eskimo village on Norton Sound, while the other, Reverend Adolf Lydell, came to Yakutat. This was in the spring of 1887. The sect which they represented had been founded in 1878 in Sweden by a number of congregations in revolt against the State Lutheran Church; it spread to the Swedish colonists in America, and became established with head- quarters in Chicago in 1884-85, as the Evangelical Mission Covenant Church of America. I t emphasizes individual religious experience leading to salvation, the supreme authority of the Bible, and the relative inde- pendence of each congregation. Services are charac- terized by individual testmonials and public confessions volunteered by members of the congregation. Lydell remained at Yakutat through the summer of 1887 and went outside in the fall, returning the following summer. He had to leave again for reasons of health. Apparently the Reverend K. J. Hendrickson had come with him, but remained behind. Minnie Johnson reported that Mr. Lydell purchased the log trading post from "Doc" (i.e., Doctor Ballou, the trader). There is further evidence that this trader was in Yakutat during the summer of 1888, for her father, who died of tuberculosis that year, sold his sea otter bow and arrows to "Doc" in exchange for a pair of copper-toed shoes for his little daughter. On May 11, 1889, the Reverend Albin Johnson arrived in Yakutat to take the place of the ailing Lydell whom he had met in Portland on his way north. Johnson was to stay in Yakutat for 17 years, the longest period of service for any preacher attached to the Mission, yet I judge that Hendrickson, because of his skills as carpenter and his energy, made more impres- sion on the natives. Others attached later to the Mission and remembered by our informants were Gustavensen who helped Hendrickson build the church, Miss Selma Peterson who came as cook and teacher, Mrs. Albin Johnson (Agnes Wallin), who came all the way from Jankaping, Sweden, in May, 1891, and who "couldn't speak a word of English." Miss Carlsen is also men- tioned as a teacher, and Paul Page, a native trained at the Sheldon Jackson school at Sitka, for a time acted as interpreter (Jackson, 1894, pp. 15-16; 1903, p. 47). Johnson's first impressions of Yakutat were not favorable, for, as soon as the little schooner arrived that had brought him from Juneau, "the savages? copper-colored, dirty, and badly clad?climbed aboard IN THREE PARTS THROUGH ALIEN EYES 199 in swarms, begging "Thlinket, Haete, Nowu, Haete, Nowu; Haete Kunse, Haete Kunse?Give us liquor [ha 'At nauwu], Give us tobacco [ha 'At gantci]" (Johnson, 1924, p. 21). The missionaries began at once to improve their quarters, and when Mrs. Shepard visited Yakutat the following year she found a small garden in which beets, turnips, potatoes and carrots were thriving (Shepard, 1889, p. 230). Later, quite a few of the converts, according to my informants, had similar garden plots, although Johnson complained (1924, p. 51) that they did not really take to agriculture. The two "kindly looking, noble men," Johnson and Hendrickson, had had, according to Mrs. Shepard, "much trouble in establishing their mission; there was a scarcity of lumber and their house was too small. At the time I was there they were able to accomodate only five Indian boys. The only way to do the Indians any good was, as has been proved, to keep them entirely under their supervision. . . . I could not but admire those humble good men, so far from their native land, staking their very lives for the salvation of these poor degraded beings. I asked one of them, 'Mr. H?, do you feel safe among these Indians?' 'Hardly safe,' he replied, 'though I do not fear them. One day not long ago,' he continued, 'one of them came to me and wanted to use my grindstone; it was Sunday, so I refused him, whereupon he said he would kill me. He had an axe in one hand and a knife in the other. I told him he could kill me, I was helpless; and he walked away. They are like dogs; had I shown fear he would have killed me.' " [Mrs. Shepard recalls that Dr. Duncan of Metlakatla had told of a similar experi- ence.] "These Indians admire courage and will seldom kill but the craven or coward, right out in the broad light of day. Their usual method is to steal upon the victim unawares and shoot from behind and ambush." [Shepard, 1889, pp. 231-232.j Before the church and mission buildings were finished, meetings were held in the big native houses on Khantaak Island, using each in turn, and an effort was made to train children who could serve as interpreters. According to the Census of 1890, the Swedish Free Missionary Society had at Yakutat a church worth $1,200, with 17 native and 3 White communicants (Porter, 1893, p. 183). "In 1890 this institution reported 2 male teachers and 28 pupils, 17 boys and 11 girls, with an average daily attendance of 20 for 312 days of tuition. The new mission and school building built in 1891 is 45 by 35 feet and 2 stories high [housing the church, dining room and kitchen on the ground floor, with the boys' dormitory and teachers' room above]. The chief obstacle which confronts the teacher of native children is the indifference of the natives and the very irregular attendance of the pupils, and these diffi- culties are very hard to overcome in the Yakutat school." [Ibid., p. 189.] Albin Johnson describes a number of events, such as the first conversion, that of a cripple named Satshrook, who was baptized Ned Swanson; the first Christmas at the mission; a potlatch on Eliantaak Island in 1890 (?, see p. 650) given by the chief "Jana-Shoo" (see "Yanatcho" of Mrs. Shepard, below); adoption of a 6-year old orphan girl, Datt-sherke, baptized Esther; an outbreak of religious hysteria or "shouting" in the winter of 1890 (see pp. 724-725); the establishment of the sawmill and the native reaction to this. However, because these and other incidents occurred during the last decade of the 19th century, they are remembered by some of my informants, and it seems more appropriate to combine Johnson's accounts and descriptions with those of the natives. I have already had occasion to quote from Mrs. Shepard who visited Yakutat in 1889. In September of that year, her husband's ship, the U.S. revenue steamer Rush, on which she had just made a trip to the Aleutian Islands, was ordered to Yakutat. This was because the schooner, Alpha, was overdue at Sitka and was feared wrecked. This was the same schooner that had failed to pick up Topham's party the previous summer. The delay in 1889 had been caused by a shortage of provisions, and by disputes between the captain, the trader on board, and Mr. H., a photog- rapher from Taber's in San Francisco. Since Captain Shepard found the schooner to be also unseaworthy, she was left behind at Yakutat, and the Rush took all on board back to Sitka. Mrs. Shepard has given some spirited descriptions of Yakutat, although probably not all her information is accurate. She was the first White woman to come to this area, unless we except the mysterious woman that native tradition reports as the sole survivor of a wreck west of Icy Bay (see pp. 233, 256). It is clear that the visit of a Government vessel was still not an event to be welcomed without reservation by all of the natives. "We were told by a person who understood Thlinket, that when the Rush first appeared at Yakutat there was great alarm among the Indians for fear of punishment, the making of liquor being prohibited. Their consciences troubled them. Some little time before a party of Copper River Indians had come on a visit: they had made a great deal of 'hoochinoo' (the native liquor) and had had a grand time. Each chief was anxious to lay the blame on the other." [Shepard, 1889, p. 228.] [The natives soon overcame their timidity, how- ever, and hardly gave the people on board the 200 SMITHSONIAN CONTRIBUTIONS TO ANTHROPOLOGY VOLUME 7 steamer any privacy, behavior which naturally Mrs. Shepard found very trying.] "I will mention here that the Indians in the village spent all of the time we stayed in the harbor aboard the Bush. On more intimate acquaintance they grew bolder and would follow us into our private apartments in a most provoking manner." [Ibid., p. 224.] [The personnel on the Rush were eager to purchase Yakutat baskets, since these were considered to be the finest made by the Tlingit, and Yakutat was also known as a source of mountain goat and bear skins.] "We found some good basket-work, but at high prices. These Indians seemed as shrewd as those at Sitka at bargaining. Several of the lieuten- ants [from the Rush] found some pretty baskets at the small store just opened, three mountain-goat skins, and one of them a blanket of eagle's breast- feathers, which made the rest of us green with envy." [[bid., pp. 220-221.] [Although there was no regular service between Yakutat and Sitka,] "trading schooners [come] up once in a while. The Pinta, the naval vessel stationed at Sitka, runs up occasionally, that is all." [Ibid, p. 231.] [However,] "A branch store from Sitka had been opened recently at Yakutat and was doing well. . . . We inquired of the storekeeper if he could trust the Indians? he said 'Yes.' and added, 'in almost every case where he had allowed them to have clothing with an agreement to pay when they had money they had faithfully fulfilled their prom- ise." [Ibid., p. 230.] "The Yakutat Indians, like those at Sitka, all understand what 'How much?' means, and never by any chance make a mistake and confuse two and three dollars. They dislike to change money, the greater the number of small pieces the more they imagine they have." [Ibid., p. 227.] Trade was certainly brisk, and the natives came continually to the ship. "We were surrounded by a whole fleet of canoes, going and coming all day, after our first raid on the village, in search of baskets." Among the curios they brought to sell "the most unexpected and amusing of all were half a dozen hair switches" (ibid., p. 224). Although Mrs. Shepard as- sumed that these were for use as false hair, it is far more probable that they were intended for decorat- ing regalia, ceremonial costumes, and totemic carvings, and they may very well have been made from slaves' hair (Keithahn, 1954). Mrs. Shepard was also concerned to see children, mostly boys, running around in the cold, wet September weather, dressed in nothing but a cotton shirt. She was told that for "recreation" they plunged into the breakers in winter or slid barefoot on the snow, not realizing that this was part of the severe hardening training for children. (This was a practice which universally horrified the Whites; in some communities it was forbidden by ordinances.) Mrs. Shepard noted that, despite this "terrible exposure," some Yakutat natives live to old age, and reports that the missionary said that two Indians, both over eighty, could remember when the Russians were massacred (Shepard, 1889, p. 225). In addition to the men from the derelict Alpha, the Rush was to take back to Sitka "a distinguished couple and their family . . . Yana- tcho, chief of the Yakutat clan and his wife. His 'Boston' name . . . being 'Billy Merryman,' named after a captain in the navy who had once been here. [Commander E. C. Merriman, captain of the U.S.S. Adams, in 1882.] Yanatcho was a haughty looking man, who spoke as one having authority. He begged, or rather expressed, his desire to go to Sitka in a somewhat peremptory manner. He first asked my husband to take him down to Sitka. Captain S? said, 'All right.' Next he asked him if he could take his wife." [And then in turn, separately asked for permission to take his son, a box of seal oil, and finally three children, at which the captain exclaimed] " 'No more!' However, at the time appointed for their embarkation, just before our departure, three canoes, full of men, women and children, with all their goods and chattels, a most incongruous mixture, appeared. It was too late to single them out. Two canoes full were bundled aboard and off we started. [One wonders whether hardships resulted from separation of families.] "The next two or three days must have been trying even to them[!], for the poor creatures had no shelter but such as they could get under the 'fo'- castle,' and an awning put up to keep the rain off. For, besides the rain, we had a heavy gale on our way back to Sitka. The ship thrashed about most unmercifully. Mr. D? played the good Samaritan and took the chief, with his wife, and children, under his protection in the engine-room, where they were at least warm. Yanatcho made his tribe believe the 'gunboat' had come after him especially, so we learned from those that understood the Thlinket aboard the schooner." [Ibid., pp. 221-223.] "Yanatcho" is evidently the Teqwedi name, YanAct'ukw, 'Firing a Gun' (perhaps yJL-nA-ci-t'trkw). This name was later borne by B. B. Williams, son of the Kwackqwan house chief, Bear Bit Billy. "Yanatcho," "Jana-Shoo," is, I believe, the same man as Williams' "Billy," Schwatka's "Yen-at-set'l" and Seton-Karr's "Noearpoo." The various Tlingit names which he bears would appear to be honorable titles, assumed in suc- cession as he gave new potlatches; the last which he gave was apparently that witnessed by Reverend IN THREE PARTS THROUGH ALIEN EYES 201 Johnson in 1890. He was evidently the ranking chief of the Bear House-Shark House lineage of the Teqwedi, and the same man that my informants remembered as "Chief Nelemen," or "Chief Minaman," evidently mispronunciations of "Merriman." In the old grave- yard on the hill above the mission, where perhaps the Russian blockhouse once stood, are the collapsed re- mains of what was once a large wooden gravehouse, in the midst of which is a stone shaft with the names: "JACK SHA-KOO-KAWN, 1831-1899," and "CHIEF MINA- MAN, KAWH-DA-WHEALH, 1810-1980." The latter was identified as Kaxaxel, chief of Shark House, and is evidently the last title assumed by this chief. He is said to have been originally chief of Shark House at Diyaguna 'Et at Lost River, from which he brought the carved house posts to his new residence on Khantaak Island. His last title was later assumed by his nephew, Sitka Ned, drowned 1926, who collaborated with Jim Kardeetoo (1862-1937) in building Shark House in the "Old Village." Sitka Ned married the daughter of Jack Sha-koo-kawn. "Sha-koo-kawn" is properly Ca- kuwakan, 'Mountain Deer,' referring to his title as 'deer' or peace-hostage. All of these men were Teqwedi of the Shark House-Bear House line, the last chief being Jim Kardeetoo. Chief Minaman of Shark House was usually called Daqusetc by my informant (MJ), who identified him in the picture of Chief Yen-at-set'l taken by Professor Libbey (pi. 62). Daqusetc and his daughter died of bad whiskey in Sitka, and it is interest- ing to speculate that it may have been on the trip to Sitka, described by Mrs. Shepard, that he met his death. A potlatch was given for him in Sitka "about 1900 or 1901," but my informant was poor at remembering dates. The photographs taken by Chase and Draper in Sitka, December 9, 1904, (pis. 210-211), were identified as showing part of the "seven tribes" who were enter- tained at the potlatch given when a tombstone was put on the grave of "Wan-a-chook," i.e., "Yanatcho." The chief and his daughter were buried at Sitka (p. 536); the shaft at Yakutat was simply a memorial to him. The so-called "second chief" at Yakutat in 1889, whom we have already identified as Yakutat Chief George Yaxodaqet, ranking chief of the KwacKqwan, Mrs. Shephard found to be "as amiable a looking person as one could wish to see," with a round, moon- like countenace, and a huge smile from ear to ear that exhibited his strong white teeth, and which he per- petually maintained except when yawning (Shepard, 1889, p. 223). The Yakutat Indians had certainly learned the value of writing, if not from the Americans, then long ago from the Russians who used to pass out receipts for tribute collected or other documents intended both to impress the natives and to serve as warnings to any foreigners that might read them that the holders were 365-517?72?TOL VII, pt 1 15 subject to the Tsar and the Russian American Company with whom trade was forbidden. As in the case of the inscription on the portrait given to Yelxak by Ismailov and Bocharov in 1788 (see p. 135), these documents also indicated something of the experience of the writer with the native recipient, and thus served as a testimonial or warning. "Both Yanatcho and the second chief had letters of recommendation from one gentleman and another who had strayed to that far northern port on business, or for pleasure, which they presented to my husband. It was customary among the Indians to ask for these. Unable to read, but confident of their flatter- ing contents, they presented them with a great deal of pride to the person whose favor they wished to secure." [Shepard, 1889, pp. 223-224.] It was all too common for wags or disgruntled Whites to write derogatory bits of doggerel, jokes, or condemnations, instead of the expected testimonial. Similar examples of frontier humor were exhibited in the signs painted for Tlingit chiefs to hang above their house doors. We sense that the Yakutat natives are no longer savage antagonists to be feared or hated, shrewd and powerful controllers of the territory and its resources whose monopolistic business acumen commanded respect, but were becoming second-class citizens in their own homeland. Of particular interest in tracing the history of Yakutat, is the statement by Mrs. Shepard that indicates that the presence of the store and the mission on the mainland had already attracted native settle- ment to the site now called the Old Village. "Yakutat consists of an Oakland and a San Francisco. On one side of the bay lives one chief and part of the clan, and on the other side the other; communication is entirely by water." [Shepard, 1889, p. 228]. The Teqwedi chief Daqusetc or "Yanatcho" was probably still living in Shark House on Khantaak Island (pi. 71); perhaps it was Chief George who had already established the Kwackqwan Raven's Bones House on the mainland. The Conquest of Mount Saint Elias and the End of an Era (1890-1900) On June 25, 1890, the U.S.S. Pinta returned again to Yakutat, commanded by Lt. Comdr. O. F. Farenholt, bringing Mr. Henry Boursin, census enumerator, the Honorable Lyman E. Knapp, Governor of Alaska who was simply along for the ride, and a third expedition to climb Mount Saint Elias. This was led by Israel Cook Russell, and was sponsored by the U.S. Geological Survey and the National Geographic Society. 202 SMITHSONIAN CONTRIBUTIONS TO ANTHROPOLOGY VOLUME 7 Russell describes the two settlements at Yakutat as follows: "At Port Mulgrave there are two small Indian villages, one on the southeastern end of Khantaak Island, the other on a point of the mainland a mile and a half east" [1891 a, p. 872]. "The village on Khan- taak island is the older of the two, and consists of six houses built along the water's edge. The houses are made of planks, each hewn from a single log, after the manner of the Thlinkets generally. . . "The village on the mainland is less picturesque, if such a term may be allowed, than the group of houses already described, but it is of the same type. Near at hand, along the shore to the southward, there are two log houses, one of which is used at present as a mission by the Reverend Carl J. Hendricksen and his assistant, the other being occupied as a trading post by Sitka merchants." [Russell, 1891 b, pp. 79-80.] "The native inhabitants of these villages number about fifty and call themselves Yakutats." [Russell, 1891 a, p. 872.] "The Yakutat Indians are the most westerly branch of the great Thlinket family which inhabits all of southeastern Alaska and a portion of British Columbia. In intelligence they are above the average of Indians generally, and are of a higher type than the native inhabitants of the older portion of the United States. They are quick to learn the ways of the white man, and are especially shrewd in bargain- ing." [Russell, 1891, b, p. 80.] [They are] "of fine physique, have well-built houses of their own design and workmanship, and live by hunting and fishing." [Russell, 1891 a, p. 872.] "They are canoe Indians par excellence, and pass a large part of their lives on the water in quest of salmon, seals, and sea-otter." [Russell, 1891 b, p. 80.] "The catch of sea otters, whose furs are the most valuable of all, during the summer of our visit numbered thirty, and they were sold at from seventy-five to one hundred dollars each. The money derived from this source, and from the sale of bear, goat, and hair seal skins, and from baskets woven in large numbers by the women for the tourist trade in Sitka, brings a comparatively large revenue to the village and enables the natives to live in comfort." [Russell, 1891 a, pp. 872-873.] [He also indicated, however, that the Indians do not use this cash income wisely.] "Improvident, like nearly all Indians, the Yakutat villagers soon spend at the trading post the money earned in this way." [Russell, 1891 b, p. 81.] The Census of 1890 gives a count of 7 male Whites at Yakutat, one female halfbreed, and 300 natives (146 male and 156 female). However, these data include also the native villages at Dry Bay and Lituya Bay, with a total of 20 houses counted, sheltering 75 families (Porter, 1893, pp. 3, 161, 163). "The Yakutats are the darkest colored and most primitive," and have "been little visited hitherto by whites, but the establishment of a mail route from Sitka to Unalaska gives Yakutat regular communication with the outside world for 7 months of the year" (ibid., pp. 54, 53). Not only are they linked to Sitka by a "considerable trade" in furs and curios, and especially in baskets, "at making which they are more expert than the women of any other tribe," but it was also predicted that "the extension of tourist travel to the foot of Mount St. Elias is one of the certainties of the future that will greatly improve the fortunes of the place" (ibid., pp. 230, 53). The spectacularly beautiful glaciers of Disenchantment Bay first became known in 1890, when Capt. C. L. Hooper of the U.S.S. Corwin, who had come to Yakutat to bring Russell's party back to Sitka, took them into Disenchantment Bay, to the very face of the ice, and "So far as is known, the Corwin was the first vessel to navigate those waters" (Russell, 1891 b, p. 100). As might have been anticipated from the tone of these passages, Russell's relations with the Indians were friendly. Mr. Hendrickson acted as interpreter for him in hiring some natives and their canoes; another canoe was purchased from the trader. Russell did not attempt to reach Mount Saint Elias from "Icy Bay," but because his mission was also geological, he went up Yakutat Bay to approach the mountain from the east, via Esker Creek, Blossom Island, Pinnacle Pass, and Seward Glacier. On the evening of June 30, while at the first camp on the mainland east of Knight Island, Russell's party was joined by "Indians returning from a seal hunt in Disenchant- ment bay. They brought their canoe high on the beach, and made themselves at home about our camp-fire. There were seven or eight well-built young men in the party, all armed with guns. In former times such an arrival would have been regarded with suspicion; but thanks to the some- what frequent visits of war vessels to Yakutat, and also to the labors of missionaries, the wild spirits of the Indians have been greatly subdued and reduced to semi-civilized condition during the past quarter of a century." [Russell, 1891 b, p. 84.] After eating some wild celery, the Indians went on to Yakutat; the expedition then ate their own supper, and evidently did not offer to share it with the hunters. One of Russell's party had been taken sick and was sent back with "an Indian who chanced to pass our camp in his canoe" (ibid., p. 83). Not only did this man arrive safely, but Russell further seems to have had complete confidence in the Indians' reliability IN THREE PARTS THROUGH ALIEN EYES 203 in caring for the sick man, as well as in their ability to land and take off through the surf on the west side of the bay. The following year Russell returned for a second but equally unsuccessful expedition. This attempt was made from "Icy Bay," by ascending the Agassiz Glacier to its junction with the route previously taken from the east. Again, the party was forced to give up just below the summit. On this occasion, Capt. M. A. Healy had brought the party to Yakutat on the U.S. revenue steamer Bear. On board was the Rev. Sheldon Jackson en route to purchase Siberian reindeer for introduction into Alaska. In trying to land Russell's party at the mouth of the Yahtse River, one of the ship's boats, less skillfully handled or perhaps less seaworthy than the natives' canoes, was swamped. Lieutenant Robinson and five seamen were drowned. Some of the bodies were recovered at the time, and when Russell finally returned to the mission in late September, he learned that "a party of Indians, while sea-otter hunting, found the two remaining bodies and gave them burial" (Russell, 1893, p. 11). From this we may infer that not only was inhumation familiar to the Indians, but that the White man had been adopted into the Tlingit's social and moral world. The White man's possessions are secure. Thus, Russell had left a cache at "Icy Bay." On returning from the mountain, the party saw tracks of animals and human footprints, but the contents of the cache were intact. "On a board nailed to a tree was a rude charcoal sketch of two men, which we understood to mean that two Indians had visited our encampment and left this sign as their card. On several other occasions we left food, tents, etc., unguarded, where they would be sure to be seen by Indians, but in no instance was a single article taken or the caches in any way disturbed. Everyone who has had experience on the frontier will understand from this that the Yakutats are to be classed among the 'good Indians.' " [Ibid., p. 54.] In September, 1891, Russell with two companions made a boat journey through the whole of what he called "Disenchantment Bay," but which includes that long fiord which is named for him. On his return he also visited "an Indian village known as Setuk, about 15 miles east of the mission, but space will not permit my giving an account of that interesting excursion" (ibid., p. 91). Fortunately, we learn a little more about Dry Bay from the account written by E. J. Glave, who descended the Alsek River from its headwaters to Dry Bay, and from there came along the canoe route to Yakutat. Glave had been previously with Stanley in the Congo. He had gone into Yukon Territory in the spring of 1890 with a large party of explorers, led by E. H. Wells, and financed by Frank Leslie's Illustrated Newspaper of New York City. At Lake Kusawa, the headwaters of the Yukon, the expedition divided, one party going down the Yukon on a raft, a second heading for Forty- mile Creek and the Copper River, while Glave crossed to Klukshu Lake at the very head of the Alsek. He was accompanied by John Dalton, who not only proved himself an excellent canoeman and woodsman, but who now could speak Tlingit fairly well. Their guide was an Indian named "Shank," whose services had been engaged at the Southern Tutchone village of Wesketahin on the upper Alsek. Here, " 'Sitka Jack,' a well-known Indian trader, who speaks fairly good English," was met with a party of Chilkat Indian traders, and interpreted for Glave and Dalton (Glave, Nov. 19, 1890, p. 310). A Tutchone medicine-man also went with Shank and the two White men down the river, although this man was too terrified of the dan- gerous rapids to be of any help in handling the canoe. As Glave writes: (Jan. 10, 1891, p. 438): "We arrived at the mouth of the Alseck at seven in the evening. There we met two Indians who invited us to their village a few miles from the seashore, and we put up for the night in the house of old Shata, the Alseck medicine-man, a powerfully- built but wrinkled old fellow, and straight as a gun-barrel. This antiquated being of magic extended to us all hospitality, which consisted of a small nook in his smoky hut and a dried salmon, both items being truly acceptable. Our provisions had now almost run out." "Shata" was probably Cada, a Kwaclkqwan name, although this sib is not associated with Dry Bay. A Cada was, however, reported as the son's son of DExwudu'u, the Tl'xrknaxAdi chief at Gusex, who was involved with the war on the Tlaxayik-Teqwedi in which the latter were exterminated. In fact, according to one informant, the trouble really began with a dispute between DExwudu'u and his Teqwedi son (p. 262). A later Cada was the chief of Fort House on Khantaak Island, who died a very old man in 1908 or 1909. "During the evening, [Glave continues his ac- count,] Shank, the Indian guide, narrated to the attentive villagers our trip down the Alseck River, coloring the scene with fetching tints reflected from his own fertile imagination. His story was evidently an interesting lecture for his audience, who listened throughout without the least interruption. Shank, flattered by his sudden popularity and fired with his own importance, assumed a tone and presence quite oratorical. "Old Shata's hut was twelve feet square; here all the occupants of the other dwellings 'rounded up' 204 SMITHSONIAN CONTRIBUTIONS TO ANTHROPOLOGY VOLUME 7 to hear the recent news from the interior. There were about thirty Indians, men, women, and chil- dren, crowded into the little place, which, to say the least of it, rendered the atmosphere rather 'close.' As the Indians squatted and lay around the fire listening to Shank, shadows and light from the nickering blaze playing over the swarthy group, their eager bronzed faces formed quite a study. It was past midnight before Shank had exhausted his subject of our Alseck journey, and the party retired to their several habitations. The most of them, I found, were lodging in our present quarters, some in rudely-built compartments of heavy planks which were built on the side of the dwelling; others had small cotton tents, while a few contented them- selves with rolling in their blankets on the hard wooden flooring. A corner of the hut was reserved for us, but mosquitoes and the atmospheric defects were hardly conducive to pleasant sleep, and we were right glad to be out in the fresh air again at early morn." [Ibid.] [Glave and Dalton were anxious to push on to Yakutat as soon as possible.] "Shank and the Gunena [gunana] doctor decided to remain where they were with old Shata and their other coast friends; they had only engaged to accompany us to the sea, and they had faithfully and devotedly fulfilled their promise. They were both of excellent character, willing, energetic, and good-tempered. The Gunena had had but little experience of the dangers of rough water, and felt considerably more at ease on terra Hrrna; but Shank was thoroughly conversant with canoe work, full of pluck and dash, and possessed of a keen and rapid judgment, qualities which, combined with his strength of limb and river experience, fitted him admirably for the dangerous duty of steering a canoe down the Alseck Eiver." [Ibid.] It is never quite clear to what tribe Shank belonged; he was descended from the extinct "Nua Qua," coastal Indians who had settled in the interior, yet he might be taken as typical of the TlukwaxAdi who so often made this dangerous journey. Of the medicine-man, Glave had earlier observed (Jan. 3, 1891, p. 414): "The Gunena doctor was of but little use on the water; he became easily scared and lost command of himself when we were in the dangerous places." Yet Glave does not blame him. "He was a willing and genial-hearted soul, but he was more at home with a horn spoon and a dried salmon than in a boat." Glave was also enthusiastic about the cottonwood canoe in which the descent had been made. We should note that he was continually impressed with the fine character, intelligence, and splendid physique of the natives he encountered on his journey. It is no wonder that he seems to have established the most cordial relations with all of them. "Among the Indians staying in old Shata's house, were two Yakutat natives, who had come to this river to catch salmon. We succeeded in obtaining the services of these men and their canoe to take us back to their own village, and started off the morning after our arrival" (Glave, Jan. 10,1891, p. 438). The Indians took the White men's belongings in their canoe through the inland channels, while the latter, who were tired of boat travel, walked along the shore, carrying only their guns. "At eight o'clock in the evening we arrived on the banks of the river Ar Quay [Akwe], and shortly after- ward our Indians came along and ferried us across to a small unoccupied village on the opposite bank. There were only three houses?all ramshackle old places in a dilapidated and tumble-down condition? though formerly strongly built structures. They con- tained an odd miscellany of property?old boxes, native and imported, salmon-poles [spears? or drying racks?], snow-shoes, pots and pans, skins, traps, etc., everything grimy and blackened by the smoky fire always burning in the center of the dwelling." [Ibid.] Unfortunately, it is impossible to identify which village on the Akwe this was (see p. 83). The next morning the two White men again set off on foot, and "after six hours' hard walking . . . arrived at the edge of a small stream on which one solitary house was standing quite unoccupied." Two hours later the Indians came in the canoe and told them that unless they went on at once to catch the high tide in the lagoon, they would have to portage the canoe over 10 miles of sand flat. Consequently, they boarded the canoe and went downstream. This river was apparently the Italio, for Glave calls it the "Thetl Wor" (qe'lhwa) (ibid.). Rough water was encountered at the lagoon, and there was still a portage of a mile and a half across a sandbar. The two Indians shouldered the canoe, while Glave and Dalton carried all their own belongings as well as the Indians' blankets and dried salmon. After reembarkmg, they paddled again, until at eight o'clock in the morning, they reached "Setuk, a small village on the banks of the river of that name." They had been on the way from Akwe River for 24 hours, out of which they had rested only 2. "Arriving at Setuk we partook of a little more salmon, and lay down in our blankets on the floor of the hut." The next day another portage of a mile was necessary before they reached the Lost River-Ankau lagoon system. At Yakutat they were "hospitably received by Mr. J. W. Johnson, of the trading firm of W. P. Mills, who has his headquarters at Sitka" (ibid.). We can assume that Johnson was the trader occupying the store at Yakutat. IN THREE PARTS THROUGH ALIEN EYES 205 The Census of 1890 also gives us some information about the Gulf Coast tribes between Yakutat and the Copper River. Their numbers are obviously dwindling and their culture already doomed. Going west from the meridian of Mount Saint Elias, the first people are met in the vicinity of "Cape Yak- tag," or Yakataga. "The settlement here consists of single dwellings scattered along many miles of coast. The houses are now occupied only during the winter season. With the advent of spring the whole population embark in their large wooden canoes, and, passing by the inaccessible ice cliffs of the Bering glacier, they make their first camp at Cape Suckling. Here they fraternize with another branch of their tribe, who have their homes and winter hunting grounds on the lakes and streams of the level strip of land between the St. Elias alps and the coast of Con- troller bay. [This suggests a distinction between the Galyix-Kagwantan to the east and the Tcicqedi to the west.] "After spending a few weeks together hunting and feasting, the Yaktag people paddle or sail across the wide but shallow strait which separates Kaye, or Kayak, island from the mainland. This is another favorite hunting ground, where until a few years ago a party of Norwegian hunters and traders maintained a station, which fierce competition from stores connected with canning enterprises forced them to abandon." [Porter, 1893, p. 65.] [The traders were the Swedish Andersen and Carlsen brothers whose post Seton-Karr had visited in August, 1886. At that time two Norwegian hunters had just settled at Cape Suckling (Seton-Karr, 1887, p. 150).] [There had formerly been a salmon cannery on Wingham Island.] "The whole plant, together with the trading store, was subsequently removed to one of the many mouths of the Copper river for the greater convenience of fishing. [This was to Koken- henik Island.] This cannery, which employs between 40 and 50 white men and 50 Chinamen, also offers to the Yaktag tribe an opportunity for remuner- ative labor throughout the fishing season. They come here each successive season, bringing with them their families and most of their household goods, to sail homeward again in August or Sep- tember, laden with the proceeds of their labor, to enjoy a season of ease and plenty. "The Yaktag people, who have also been known by the local name of Chilkhat [from the village on Bering Kiver, Controller Bay], were still quite numerous 10 years ago; now there are scarcely 100 of them left." [Porter, 1893, p. 65.] At the Kayak Island village, Seton-Karr had noted the squalor of the native huts, hi one of which a man was dying of consumption (Seton-Karr, 1887, pp. 156-159). Under the heading "Wingham Island," the Census noted a population of 150 natives, composed of 15 families living in 15 houses (Porter, 1893, p. 163). "Wingham Island includes Cape Martin station and Chilkaht settlement on Controller bay" (ibid., p. 161). It is at Cape Martin, where "a small trading post has been located here for many years," that the "Yak- tag" and Chilkat of Controller Bay meet the "Ugalentz" or Eyak of the Copper Kiver delta (ibid., p. 66). There are only a few more observations about Yakutat before 1900 where we will abandon this historical survey. In 1896, A. P. Swineford, Governor of Alaska (1885- 89), visited Yakutat, and described it as follows: "Mulgrave Harbor is a small indentation setting off to the right of the entrance to the bay, and on the north side is the native village of a dozen or more houses, in which live some two hundred people. There is also a trader's store and a Swedish Lutheran mission and school, and of late years the population has been augmented by a number of white men, intent upon amassing fortunes by washing gold from the ruby sands found on the beach." [After men- tioning the Russian colony which had been estab- lished] "on an inlet which sets off from the east side of Yakutat Bay" [he notes that:] "Except for a few Creole families, nothing is now left of what was once a busy and flourishing settlement." [Swineford, 1898, pp. 101-102,] Although a number of Yakutat people had mentioned the possibility of Russian blood in their own ancestry, citing the clear complexions of their parents and grand- parents as possible evidence, this admixture has not so far been discussed by any writer. "The natives are not unlike those of Sitka, speak the same language and live in houses similarly con- structed. They maintain themselves by fishing and hunting, and are more cleanly in their persons and houses than those of most other native villages." [Ibid.] We may gather from this description, as well as from the photograph in Albin Johnson's memoirs (1924, p. 51), that already the Tlingit had largely moved from Khantaak Island and had built frame houses at the "Old Village" near the Mission with lumber from the Reverend Hendrickson's sawmill. In 1897, two more expeditions made an assault on Mount Saint Elias. That led by H. G. Bryant of Phila- delphia failed, while the very large, well organized and well supplied expedition of Prince Luigi Amedeo, Duke of Abruzzi, was successful. The latter's party included 206 SMITHSONIAN CONTRIBUTIONS TO ANTHROPOLOGY VOLUME 7 the Prince's aide-de-camp, the president of the Italian AJpine Club, an Italian photographer, Dr. Filippo de Filippi who wrote the official narrative (1900), 5 Alpine guides, 10 Americans of whom C. W. Thornton con- tributed a popular account (1898), and 4 natives from Yakutat. Among these was Peter Lawrence (1871? 1950), a Kagwantan man born in Sitka, named Qatciti or Kadjati (pis. 2lip, 216), the son of a Decitan (Raven sib) man from Angoon. He had apparently served on a number of trading schooners, and came to Yakutat in 1888 as interpreter for Chief Jeff King, a trader. On this voyage they took 600 sea otters for which they obtained $70 apiece, and claimed to have discovered gold on Yakataga beach. I met Peter Lawrence as a crippled old man, in 1949, living in dire poverty and neglect, but still treasuring among his few belongings a photograph of the Abruzzi expedition which the Prince had signed for him. Among the Yakutat people, Peter Lawrence had the reputation of being a wag and a good joker in his younger days, and this trait he also exhibited on the expedition. The quality of his humor seems to have been typically Tlingit, without malice. He could take a joke equally well. The expedition had landed at Cape Manby and had reached, by hard backpacking up a stream, a campsite at the edge of the Malaspina Glacier, the "Bean camp," some 3% miles from the shore. As related by Thornton: "A funny thing happened here. Four Indian guides had been hired to help us as far as the snow line. They were an intelligent lot of fellows, strong and reliable. They were a jolly lot, too, but some of us thought it strange that they laughed and joked among themselves so frequently. They were even 'kittenish' at times, and even when we knew about the propensity of one of them for 'joshing' it did not seem to be sufficient explanation. This fellow's name was Peter Lawrence. I believe he had the greatest sense of humor of any one I have ever seen. He would not only joke on all possible subjects, but could laugh as heartily as anyone when the joke happened to be on himself. We soon called him 'Peter the Josher.' But, as I have said, even his well-known propensity for making fun was not sufficient to ex- plain their behavior on this occasion. At last the explanation came. "After we had moved a certain portion of the outfit to the Bean camp, it was decided to begin moving it to the edge of the snow on the Malaspina, four and a half miles farther, giving the Indians ten dollars for moving up to the Bean camp that portion of the outfit which was left at the beach, and which was considered necessary for the trip. The remainder, a large supply of provisions, had been cached as a reserve. After making one trip to the snow line and returning about noon, what was our surprise to see the Indians come in with the last of the provisions, having accomplished in a half day what we had expected them to do in something over a day. When asked how they did it, Peter laughed and said, 'Injun git contract; do 'em up quick.' [Upon investigation it was discovered that the Indians had a canoe hidden on the river.] "Those rogues had brought all of that stuff up in their canoe, one of them staying in the boat to steer it and keep it off the bank, while the others pulled it upstream with a rope. We felt cheap then, to think what time and energy we had wasted during the last two days." [Thornton, 1898, p. 294.] [Again, as in leading Topham's party through the cold glacial streams, the Indians amused themselves by demonstrating their superior hardihood. Filippi praised the natives as porters.] "The Indians, although undersized, carried heavier loads than our own men could manage?i.e., from 60 to 68 lbs.?without a word of complaint. They did not use the [pack] frames, but preferred to fasten the loads on their backs by means of two straps coming over the shoulders and crossing over the chest, a system that compelled them to walk in a stooping posture. They were shod with moccasins of undressed sealskin, with the fur inside, unfitted for tramping over this waste of sharpedged stones, which bruised our own feet in spite of our heavy boots." [Filippi, 1900, p. 75.] [The pack straps are like those described by my informants.] "Our four Indians, small, thick-set men, are so exactly alike that they seem turned out of the same mould. The development of arms and chests is exaggerated in comparison with the rest of the body, owing to the constant work at the oars entailed by their life on the water. "They either sit together in a contented group, patching their moccasins, or loaf around in the camp with contented, smiling faces, peeping inquis- itively into the tents and speaking incomprehensible words to us in their gutteral tongue, full of Z's and k's. One of them, however, knows a little English, and acts as interpreter to the rest. Their language has nearly all lost its special characteristics. Owing to frequent contact with French and Russian travellers, sailors, trappers, and whalers, these Indians speak a jargon known as 'Chinook,' now common to all the aborigines of the region and long used as the language of commerce on the coast of British Columbia, Oregon and Washington State." [Ibid., p. 78.] [I certainly never gathered the impression that Chinook Jargon was ever well or commonly known IN THREE PARTS THROUGH ALIEN EYES 207 at Yakutat, but the men who might have been most familiar with it had all died before my visits.] "One honorable trait of the Indians' character is honesty. They steal nothing?not even food; and this verdict is confirmed by everyone who has employed them. All expeditions, such as our own, have had to leave stores of provisions, tents, etc., in spots easily to be discovered by the Indians; yet these caches are always found undisturbed and with no single article missing." [Ibid.]. In June of 1899, the year of the Klondike Gold Rush and of the earthquake at Yakutat, the Harriman Alaska Expedition came to Yakutat Bay, and, as we have already noted, visited the village, the sealing camps above Point Latouche, and cruised through Russell Fiord, to which they gave its name. On board were such naturalists and scientists as John Burroughs, John Muir, George Bird Grinnell, Charles Keeler, B. E. Fernow, and E. Hart Merriam. Yakutat was now a modern town of some 300 natives, with a permanent store and a post office, as well as the Mission school and church. Apparently the site on Khantaak Island had been abandoned. And if Keeler (1902, p. 217) thought the Indian village was "composed of houses built in the most hideously modern fashion with clap- boards and paint," Burroughs (1901, p. 54) saw them as "eight or ten comfortable frame houses." Pictures in Albin Johnson's book, dating from this period, show the natives?or at least the members of his congregation?wearing the ugly, uncomfortable but stylish garments affected by prosperous Americans at the end of the century. The people pose with a stiff, self-conscious pride in their best Sunday clothes, just as do Reverend Johnson and his family. The mission living room is dark and cluttered with Victorian draperies, heavily printed wallpaper, and shelves overflowing with mementoes. The great Indian "tribal houses," facing the beach, stark but impressive, gleam with white paint (Moser, 1899, pi. 4); each has its flagpole on which the American flag could be flown on great occasions, such as potlatches and Sundays (pis. 82-84). They were probably cold and drafty after the stoutly built, smoky houses on Khantaak Island, but inside (to judge from photographs I have seen) faithfully copied the splendid decor of the mission. On the beach in front rested a fleet of canoes, many the valuable imported Haida "war canoes." At the W. W. Mills Company store, Dick Beasley (for whom Beasley Creek at the head of Russell Fiord was named) had cookies to sell that some informants still remem- ber from their childhood. Despite these obvious outward changes, much of life was still as it had always been. The people deserted the village when it was time to go to the sealing camps or to the salmon streams. There, the free life could still be lived, in the comfort of old clothes, even though the Harrhnan expedition found that: "The Indian women frowned upon our photographers and were very adverse to having the cameras pointed at them. It took a good deal of watching and waiting and maneuvering to get a good shot. The artists with their brushes and canvas were regarded with less suspicion" (Burroughs, 1901, pp. 60-61). In 1954, copies of the photographs made at the sealing camp in 1899 by Merriam (pis. 72-80) were examined with eager pleasure by the people who had been children there. In the hearts of those who went regularly to church the earnest preachings of Johnson and Hendrickson had not been able to erase the deep-grained fearful confidence in the shaman, or terror of the witch and Land Otter Man. Although the herring and salmon had not yet been commercially exploited, Captain Moser, of the U S.S. Albatross, had stopped at Yakutat to make investiga- tions for the U.S. Fish Commission. On his return in 1901, he was to find that F. A. Fredericks Company of Seattle had just built a large herring saltery at the head of Monti Bay, while A. L. See and A. Flenner were building another inside the mouth of Ankau Creek. Already there were plans for the cannery at the head of Monti Bay with a railroad running to Dry Bay (it never went farther than Johnson Slough just beyond Situk River), and the cannery wharf wa3 to be built the following year (Moser, 1901, p. 390). In September, 1899, occurred the great earthquake which some of my informants remember very well. This shook down so much snow from the mountains onto the glaciers that these began once more to advance, and this phenomenon again attracted the attention of geologists to Yakutat. Of more immediate concern, however, was the question of the International Bound- ary; indeed title to Mount Saint Elias was in doubt, so surveyors from both the United States and Canada began to explore the ranges above Yakutat and Dry Bays. Just as the first sight of Mount Saint Elias by White men in 1741 began our long history of Yakutat, so the determination of its position astride the Alaskan- Canadian Boundary shortly after the end of the century (1906) should bring this story to a close. Let us turn now to the Yakutat people themselves. Let them tell their own history, and describe how their ancestors came to these lands, guided by the beautiful mountains. Myth, Legend and Memory: The Native Histories of Yakutat 265-517?72?vol. VII, pt. 1 16 210 SMITHSONIAN CONTRIBUTIONS TO ANTHROPOLOGY VOLUME 7 SETTING THE STAGE Myth and History Yakutat, like any Tlingit community, has a large body of oral traditions, even though there are only a few persons who can tell the old stories in all their rich detail. These tales include solemn accounts of a religious nature, dealing with the creation of the world, of fabulous adventures, and of the feats of shamans; there are stirring histories of wars fought long ago and of the glorious deeds of the ancestors; there are also stories explanatory of customary usages, often capped by a proverb, or illustrative of the consequences of moral and of immoral behavior, and so told to instruct the young. Idle hours are enlivened by humorous stories, both mythical and trivial, or by a wealth of personal reminiscences, anectodes, and current gossip. Tlingit stories are essentially "historical" in char- acter; that is, they deal with what are believed to be true events. Even though the main function of a tale and the purpose for recounting it may be entertain- ment, there is no category of story corresponding to our "fiction." To tell a "made-up" story, like fabricat- ing a claim or making an unfounded boast, is 'telling a lie' (?Ati-'ik; Boas, 1917, p. 131, ^a-h-iyel). For the Tlingit, the English word "story" carries the connota- tion of falsehood, and is often applied to beliefs or practices which the missionaries have labeled as "superstition." A respectable narrator does not "tell stories." My Tlingit friends were, in fact, much con- cerned that the versions of tales told to us be the true and correct ones, warning us against statements made by misinformed persons. Sometimes an interpreter would even refuse to translate part of a story because he felt that the narrator was confused, or another might be unwilling to tell a story that he did not know thoroughly, for fear of mistakes. Even a well-informed person might hesitate to tell the traditions associated with a sib not his own, just as he would refuse to record a song that belonged to another sib, unless a member of that sib specificially requested him to sing. Other informants were evidently loath to speak of old troubles between sibs, especially of wars, since the very retelling of these stories is apt to rouse long- dormant enmities. In general, it was usually the oldest persons, even though partly senile or able to speak only the most broken English, who were cited as the authorities on native traditions. This was because they were old and had learned the histories in their youth from equally venerable relatives. On the other hand, many appar- ently well-versed middle-aged or younger persons might be disparaged as "too young to learn," and indeed they were sometimes too diffident to tell a story when their elders were present. This is because a "mistake" or deviation from an approved version could be inter- preted as a deliberate falsehood or slanderous remark. This did not mean, however, that I did not actually record several different versions of the same tale, nor, paradoxically, that the Tlingit themselves do not recog- nize the existence of several versions. The degree of toleration of such differences seems to depend upon the personal relations between the listener and narrator. Sib loyalties and enmities are recognized as accounting for conflicting versions, and of provoking bitter accusa- tions of untruthfulness. In order to appreciate the significance of these "his- torical narratives," it is necessary to understand how the tales and their events are categorized, and also what the actors or characters in the stories are supposed to be, for only in this way can we come to see how all these various folkloristic accounts are "history," and therefore "true" in different ways. First, the Tlingit distinguish a special category of stories as 'of the long ago' (tlagu). These are true, but refer to a time so remote that one does not expect events to have the realistic qualities of the present, nor can one expect to understand clearly how or why things happened. The most important of these myths are those concerning Raven, and how his activities led to the establishment of the present world: that is, to the presence of the stars, moon, and sun in the sky, the distinction between men and animals and their arrange- ment in the totemic order, the occurrence of fresh water on land, the movements of the tide, and the appear- ance of special landmarks (particularly in Dry Bay and Controller Bay). Raven was also indirectly responsible for the Flood, since this was produced by his jealous uncle in order to drown him. Although the Flood clearly does not come at the end of the Raven cycle, when these myths are considered together, nevertheless, since the Flood is held accountable for the dispersal of the various human groups, it may be taken in another sense as marking the transition from myth time to the human era. "It's just like the Old Testament, and after that it's New Testament again," explained an inform- ant in referring to sib migrations after the Flood. I am not sure, however, how most sib origin and crest origin stories are classified by the people. Some of these have the character of myths, and apparently deal with events in the remote past; others would seem to belong IN THREE PARTS MYTH, LEGEND, AND MEMORY 211 more logically to a recent historical period. While the Yakutat people recognize a distinction between myth (tlagu) and history (ckAlnik), individuals may draw the line in different places. Thus, some versions of sib histories were criticized as "mixed-up" by one inform- ant, because they included what were essentially epi- sodes belonging to 'myth,' in this case involving a giant seagull. The same man was equally careful to point out the anachronism involved in the alleged use of a gun long before the first contact with Europeans. On the other hand, I believe there is some uncertainty as to how other informants would classify Raven's en- counter with the Russian captain who tried to get him drunk on whiskey. Indeed, Raven can hardly be rel- egated entirely to mythology when one old man spec- ulated that he might be still alive, living in a cave "in the Aleutians"! Because myths belong to the shadowy past, these stories of long ago form a kind of "prehistory" for the Tlingit traditions that belong to "history" (ckAl- nik), 'it really happened.' In the latter category, of course, belong the accounts of sib migrations, of wars, of the coming of the Russians and of their eventual expulsion, as well as of more recent events. As one comes forward in time, such history obviously includes personal reminiscences of the narrator, as well as accounts of events witnessed or experienced by his parents or grandparents. While the careful teller will usually make clear the source of his information if it were obtained from an eyewitness or a participant, or will specify from whom he heard the account, I do not know whether the Tlingit make any distinction between what we might call "living history" and the more traditional and older accounts belonging to "ordinary history." Obviously, personal anecdotes may range in character from the trivial, humorous, or scandalous, to serious narratives of important events. It is the latter which acquire through repetition a standardized form and which gradually pass into the category of family or lineage tradition, and eventually may become part of the history of the people or of the sib. Because a considerable number of stories were collected, I have had to make a more or less arbitrary selection of those to be included in this chapter dealing with the native history of Yakutat. Thus, myths and sib origin stories of a mythical nature have been ex- cluded, especially if their locale is vague or does not belong to the Yakutat area. Such tales will, however, be found elsewhere. Excluded also are historical tradi- tions referring to events which did not clearly involve the Yakutat people. Because the latter were often told us to illustrate some point concerning war and peace, or shamanism, for example, these stories are appended to the chapter with which their subject matter is most clearly connected. A complete listing of all stories and anecdotes, together with page ref- erences, can be found in the Index. What follows in this chapter has been selected to exhibit what the Yakutat people think about them- selves as Yakutat people, and how they understand the events that took place in their home territories. In reading these stories we must also remember that the Yakutat people think of themselves as linked by recent events and by very ancient happenings with other groups in other parts of the native world. Here, however, I would like to concentrate on the native history of Yakutat itself so that this can be compared with the accounts recorded by alien observers. These White visitors were conscious of their national origins in distant lands and remote times; they acted and recorded their experiences in terms of what they conceived to be their origins, their national destinies, and their own human roles. This is equally true of the people they met at Yakutat. The history of the latter, like their mythology, is only fully understandable if we recognize that their moieties and sibs, established at the beginning of time, are the fundamental units of history. These were not only the groups that com- manded native allegiance, and with reference to which people acted, but they had for their members a sig- nificance perhaps deeper than did the nations of Russia, Spain, France, England, or the United States, for their citizens who came to Yakutat. To the native, the "nations" or sibs of the Tlingit are not only deeply rooted in the mythical past, they are the embodiments today of the very origins of the world and of humanity, reflecting the natural order and Unking men to it by totemic bonds. The sibs constitute the eternal and unchanging order of the Tlingit people, fixed because no individual can exchange or lose his sib identity, and because a sib can never, in theory, be changed except through the total annihilation of all its members. For these reasons it is clear that to exclude the mythical past from the native history of Yakutat is to present an incomplete account. Also, it is evident that to understand Yakutat history, even in our sense of history, means that we must first attempt to identify the sibs that were the real actors in that history. For the native, however, there is no single history, but rather the traditions of the several sibs, even though that of his own is the "correct" version. Tribe and Sib In earlier sections the tribes along the Gulf Coast of Alaska were listed (pp. 17-21), and their present and 212 SMITHSONIAN CONTRIBUTIONS TO ANTHROPOLOGY VOLUME 7 former settlements and their traditional territories described (pp. 58-106). It is now necessary to identify these groups more closely. The five regions of Lituya Bay, Dry Bay, Yakutat Bay, Controller Bay, and the Copper Eiver delta, could be considered as the territories of as many different tribes. Thus, the territory south of Cape Fairweather, including Lituya Bay and Cross Sound, "belongs to" the Hoonah of southeastern Alaska. The mouth of the Alsek River, Dry Bay, and the Akwe River were occupied by a separate group, the Dry Bay people. From Italio to Icy Bay was Yakutat territory proper; beyond, from Cape Yakataga to Cape Martin, including Controller Bay, was the home of the Kaliakh tribe; in the Copper River delta country lived the Eyak. However, to designate these groups as "tribes" and the areas they utilized as "tribal territories" would not reflect either the actual situation or native thought. Thus, while the 'inhabitants' (-qwan, contracted from qu-han) of each geographical district were to some extent united by feelings of local pride, local sociability, and ties of affinity, they still did not constitute a tribe in the sense of a politically organized and autonomous group. Rather, a sense of community identity definitely took second place to the "patriotism" felt by the members of each sib for their own matrilineal exogamous kin group. Sib members recognized their common kinship even though they might be scattered in distant villages in different tribal areas, for only a few sibs were restricted to one region. It is the sib (na) that is commonly called "tribe" or even "nation" by the English-speaking Tlingit, who follow the vague use of terms employed almost a hundred years ago by travelers and mission- aries. Today, the Tlingit stnl insist on equating "tribe" with sib, and this inaccurate or special usage has caused endless confusion when they have had to deal with official Governmental or legal documents in which the word "tribe" is used with its ordinary (primarily territorial) meaning. Although the sib is certainly independent of the local community or tribe, native traditions do suggest a real link between the unilinear kin group and the locality. Thus, the origin stories of many sibs suggest that each of these groups was associated with a specific place, as if at one time sib and tribelet had been one and the same (disregarding, of course, the affiliated spouses). The names of such sibs usually reflect that of the locality where the sib originated or of some spot with which it was particularly associated. Other sibs, however, bear names appropriate to lineages or house groups, even though they may be just as numer- ous and widely dispersed. Traditions of most sibs usually refer to the locality that was the site of their ancestral house. A sib of any size is composed of several lineages or house groups (hit-tan), and the latter in turn may consist of a single house fine or a cluster made up of "mother" and "daughter" houses. Again, while some sibs are found only in single tribal districts, most sibs are established in several areas where they own house sites and territories for hunting, fishing, and gathering. The local segments of such a widespread sib may or may not be felt to form distinct subsibs, perhaps depending upon the recency or circumstances of then1 dispersal. On the other hand, a single sib in one locality may exhibit two (or more?) fairly independent lineages or clusters of houses, perhaps reflecting the process of splitting into separate sibs, or the incomplete fusion of two formerly distinct groups. The relative inde- pendence of these subdivisions may be seen in their historical traditions, in their sharing or exclusive use of totemic crests and other prerogatives, and in whether or not they form rival groups at local potlatches. (At Sitka, for example, the Box House Kagwantan danced opposite the Wolf House Kagwantan and the Eagle's Nest Kagwantan, and the first were usually called simply "Box House People" (Swanton, 1908, p. 435.)) It is natural that these subdivisions should be of most concern to the residents of the local community. To the Tlingit in another district such lineage divisions are of little significance, and indeed they are temporarily ig- nored in intertribal affairs, when the lineages of a sib are always grouped together in a cooperating unit. Similarly, the exact sib or subsib involved in some legendary or historical event may be ignored by a nar- rator who is not related to the group in question and who is apt to apply the familiar designation of the larger parent sib to its subdivision. Futhermore, in a distant place, even the name of the sib may be forgotten so that it may have to be called by the name of the tribe, as when some Yakutat informants told me about the war between the Sitka Kagwantan and the C&Atqwan (Wrangel people, actually Nanya'ayi sib). It is hardly to be expected that a northern Tlingit should know the names of southern Tlingit sibs. And when a non- Tlingit group is concerned, any consciousness of their internal social divisions is usually masked by their over- all foreignness. Nevertheless, in recounting Tlingit history, the sibs (na), and the geographical groups (-qwan) or villages ('an) which may be involved should be specified. A complete account will also include the house (hit) or houses of the protagonists, as well as their personal names. Since the latter, as we shall see (pp. 781-790), are inherited within the lineage or sib, mention of the name alone is often sufficient identification. The histories told at Yakutat show how the fortunes of the different groups have fluctuated, how some became prominent through prowess and wealth, or how misfortune or internal dissension might weaken a group IN THREE PARTS MYTH, LEGEND, AND MEMORY 213 through schism. The emigration of one branch might lead to the establishment of a separate group. We can also see the conduct of intersib relations, in potlatching, trade, and in friendly intermarriage. The last often leads to the eventual establishment of a sib in far lands, as the children and brothers of married-in women found their own house in new territory. Or, warfare can lead to the extermination of a sib, with its surviving members enslaved by then1 conquerors. In other cases, a sib simply seems to disappear; perhaps, reduced in numbers, its members have merged with some related stronger group. Finally, the fortunes or misfortunes of a sib or of a whole community may turn upon a supernatural event, an incautious word to a powerful spirit, or the violation of some taboo. In fact, the destinies of each sib are to some degree deter- mined or set by the original supernatural encounters which endowed the group with its totemic affiliations and character. Foreign Peoples A number of foreign tribes and peoples have figured in Yakutat history, or were mentioned by informants. In identifying these I shall begin with the native peoples who live to the westward. ALETJTS AND ESKIMOS The Chugach of Prince William Sound, the Koniag of Kodiak Island, and the inhabitants of the Aleutian Islands are all popularly known as "Aleuts" to Alaskan Whites and natives alike. Few bother to distinguish between the Pacific Eskimo and the Aleut proper. The Yakutat and Eyak had contacts with the Chugach in Prince William Sound and in Controller Bay before the Russians brought fleets of Aleut, Koniag, and Chugach sea-otter hunters into Indian territories. The native word for Aleut, more properly applied to the Chugach, is Eyak, and we heard this variously rendered as Got'ex, (gotfefc gofex, Kot'ex, and guf!e*). The copper River Eyak word for a Chugach Eskimo is GoDEiyiq or GoDBiq (Birket-Smith and de Laguna, 1938, p. 543) or ^Adi-q (Krauss). They were the traditional enemies of the Eyak and Yakutat. A number of place names in the Yakutat area, as far east as the Situk River, were said to be "Aleut," and some informants believed that they were the original inhabitants of the area. Others said that they came to Yakutat in pre-Russian times only to hunt sea otter and to raid. Still others believe that the Aleut hunters brought by the Russians were the first to come to Yakutat Bay. There are traditions that Fort Island near Knight Island was fortified as a protection against them, that they used to camp on Dolgoi Island and at other places in the bay, where they lurked in ambush to capture the local Indians, and that an Aleut camp was massacred near Knight Island. They are also mentioned as making war on the village of GalyAx on the Kaliakh River, and of attacking the Yakutat when the latter went to trade at the mouth of the Copper River. The Indians had to drive them out of Yakutat Bay and out of Controller Bay, and some of the Yakutat people in their turn even went to Prince William Sound to fight them (pp. 158,163,164,169, 172, 175). At a later period, the Yakutat used to trade with the Pacific Eskimo at Nuchek in Prince William Sound and at Kodiak, and liked to imitate their dances. Even now the traditional enmity is not forgotten, although a few Yakutat natives in recent years have taken Aleut or Koniag spouses. The Yakutat were also aware of the Eskimo of the far north, people who live where it is cold, wear fur clothes all the time, etc. During World War II, some of the Yakutat men met Eskimos in the Army or on con- struction jobs at Nome or Fairbanks. We recorded no native name for Eskimo (except for one evidently given in error). Jack Ellis called the Eskimo "haa dAnaa, 'outer- edge-of-the world people,' " and George Johnson agreed that they could be called "haadaa-khwaan, 'way-out people.'" The former specified that the southeastern Tlingit call the Aleuts "kiyAk-khwaan," which he and an informant from Kake admitted to Harrington was an attempt to say "Kayak-people," but at Yakutat they were called " 'AnA'uut ['Aleut' with the usual substitution of n for Z], or khuthe'ex." George Johnson [an Eyak-speaker] pronounced this "kuttheex or kuttheex," and evidently applied it specifically to the Chugach, for the true "westward, further-up Aleuts" he said might be designated as "naakkhii-' 'aa-kuttheei." (Harrington, MS., 1939-40). ATHABASKANS The Athabaskans were called Gunana, 'strange people' (Boas, 1917, p. 158, gunana, Swanton, 1908, p. 414, Go'nana 'strange or different nation;' Harrington, MS., 1939-40, "kunAnaa means merely 'different Indians,' though was generally applied to all interior Athapaskans"). This term was specifically used at Yakutat to designate the Athabaskans living up the Stikine, Taku, Chilkat, and Alsek Rivers, and also the original inhabitants of Dry Bay (ThikwaxAdi). It was very seldom used in referring to the Atna of the Copper River, although they were known to be related to the other interior Athabaskan groups. Although George Johnson, in talking to Harrington used the common 214 SMITHSONIAN CONTRIBUTIONS TO ANTHROPOLOGY VOLUME 7 English designation "Stick Indians," apparently with its usual somewhat derogatory connotations, we found that the Yakutat people, in contrast to the more southern Tlingit, did not look down on the Athabaskans as inferior peoples to be exploited in trade whenever possible. Rather, they admired their fine looks, their open grassy country, their rich furs, and their beautiful skin clothing and beadwork. They learned their songs and imitated their style of dancing; and they envied them the tribal regalia which the more conservative interior peoples (Tlingitized Athabaskans and Inland Tlingit) have preserved. There was active intermarriage and trading up and down the Alsek until about 40 or 50 years ago. The Yakutat people also distinguished between different interior tribes, in addition to the Atna (see below). Thus, these Athabaskan tribes were categorized as "some good, and some bad," the former being those who acted as trade partners to the coastal Indians. Thus, the Southern Tutchone of Klukshu (tl'ukcu) at the head of the Alsek, were the partners of the CAn- kuqedi of Dry Bay (see p. 355). A CAnkuqedi informant, Frank Italio, mentioned the Tagicqwan (Tagish, Athabaskans), Nuqwaqwan (a former Tlingit group on the upper Alsek, cf. pp. 89-90), and the Aiyan (Northern Tutchone of Fort Selkirk on the Yukon). These were all apparently friendly with the Dry Bay and Chilkat Tlingit. Tasnaqwan is the name given to the people living in the far north on the Tasna, "the biggest river in the world." My informant believed that the river was the Yukon and hazarded that the people might be the Eskimo. I would suppose they were more likely to be the Tena. George Johnson told Harrington that "in 1909 [he had] met a Stick Indian man in Valdez who said he came from Thaasnaa, was well-dressed, . . . [and] had lots of money [because he] had worked for the Government for years. . . ." These natives, "like the Copper River Indians, are all slim and tall fellows like me [Harrington]." Mr. George M. Grasty identified the river as the Tanana. The Copper River Atna, although Athabaskans, were "not Gtrnana," but were specifically designated as 'copper-diggers,' 'iqkahaqwan, abbreviated as 'iqaqwan (Cf. Boas, 1917, p. 123, 'eq' ' copper'; p. 134, kl-si-hl 'to dig.') Harrington renders the name as 'iik-kh.AAh.AA- kkhwaan 'copper-digging people,' or 'nkh-kaa-kkhwaan for short. They might also be known as 'iikkhAhAnaa. The Eyak called them yaanAhk (Harrington). These people, at least those on the lower river and its tributaries near Chitina, are felt to be closely related to the Eyak and the Indians at Yakutat. They have matrilineal sibs and moieties like the coast-dwellers. The Eagle sib at Chitina is known as the Tcicqwedi, and the Raven sib as the Gmexqwan or tdaxEnqwan (Itahinqwan), both names derived from the rivers where they lived.68 The latter were the ancestors of the Yakutat Kwackqwan, and, according to some, of the Raven sibs among the Eyak (GanAxtedi and Quslkedi). The Atna were recognized as speaking a different lan- guage from Eyak, from Tlingit, and also from Dry Bay Gtmana, although it was more like the last. The Gulf Coast Indians seem to have been on friendly terms with the Atna, and the Atna we met on the Copper River were full of friendly respect for the coastal Indians, especially the Yakutat Tlingit. The latter formerly used to travel to the mouth of the Copper River, and during the last century to Nuchek in Prince William Sound, in order to trade with the Atna who descended the Copper River to meet them. The Copper River Eyak, I believe, were traditionally the middlemen in such trade. The overland route from the Chitina River to the Duktoth River near Cape Yakagata was presumably used at an earlier period. From the Atna, the Yakutat obtained copper, furs, and spruce gum. More recently, a small group of Atna are said to have lived on the Bering River at Controller Bay. Both the Yakutat Tlingit and the Atna were very much excited when work on the Copper River railroad in the first quarter of the present century reintroduced them to each other, and they could exchange songs and versions of their common history. The "McCarthy Indians," probably the Nabesna who came over the passes from the Upper Tanana valley to the McCarthy area on the Chitina River, were among the former enemies of the Atna. They were called Nakiqwan, 'way-up-above people,' by my Yakutat informant. Those invited to the potlatch at Chitina (see p. 898) were assumed to be Tlayinedi, that is, to belong to the Raven moiety. (It is doubtful, however, that the Upper Tanana Indians had com- pletely comparable moieties.) Harrington's informant used the term "Stick Indians" especially in referring to these inhabitants of the "upper Copper River country," although we may infer that he was not very careful about distinguishing between the various groups. He said that they used to come down the coast to Dry Bay, which was in conse- quence called "kAnnaaxxuu. . . . This name means 'Stick Indians' place." We know that there were former trade routes linking the copper country of the Nabesna 68 The Atna moieties should more properly be called "Seagull" and "Crow," from their "grandfathers," although they are actu- ally unnamed. The Tcicqwedi are the Tcicyu, 'red-paint people.' But while there are several sibs in each moiety, we have been unable to identify the Gme?qwan (de Laguna and McClellan, field notes, 1954, 195S, 1960). IN THREE PARTS MYTH, LEGEND, AND MEMORY 215 and White Rivers with the upper Alsek (map 12, p. 88), so that even if the Nabesna-Upper Tanana Indians themselves may not have traveled to Dry Bay, their copper and furs evidently did. The same informant also reported that these Stick Indians used to come frequently to the coast at "KAlyAx" near "Yakataga Beach," and as a matter of fact, they could do this as easily as could the Atna from Chitina. It is interesting that he did not associate the latter with this route, nor the Southern Tutchone with that to Dry Bay. As Harrington reports: "The Stick Indians wanted continually to come out to the coast, and followed down these 2 rivers, but after the whites came in the Stick Indians found in Cordova a nice place to "come out," [with] stores and [a] place where they could trade their skins. The Stick Indians used to come down the Copper River railroad to Cordova, and informant was surprised how they could speak English. Once informant saw a white fellow . . . in 1916 take 6 Copper River men to the States and back again on a trip. "There is one big bunch of Copper River Indians at the very head of Copper River which bunch is called by the Yakutat naakkhii khwaan, lit. way up the river people. Those 6 were from there, had long hair, their hair reached to bottom of thorax. These stuck close to the white people who [were] taking them on the trip. They talked poor English. "They early cleaned up all the whites who came in there looking for gold, the Indians having only bows and arrows, but were quick fighters. 20 pros- pectors went up there and were pretty near all fall asleep when the Copper River Indians came quick and attacked the camp, killing 19, while only one old Irishman named Mike . . . [D] escaped with one ear cut off. Mike lived for years at Cordova. . . . "They say there is lots of game among the Stick Indians up there at the head of the Copper River, and they come down in a moose skin canoe made with alder ribs, coming through the boiling rapids where the Copper River comes between the 2 moun- tains there. And they will not let any Cordova Indians go up there to hunt unless the Cordova Indian got permission from the Stick Indian chief? they wanted the hunting for the Stick Indians them- selves. If you go up there without permission they will kill you right there, you can't get away, infor- mant's maternal uncle told informant. And the white people when they first came in there had a hard time. And the Stick Indians give a time limit to Cordova Indians hunting there and if you don't go away they kill you right that minute." [George Johnson to Harrington, 1939-40.] BYAK The Eyak of the Copper River delta were not really foreigners; rather they were friends and relatives of the Yakutat people who were a trifle old-fashioned and backward. They were usually called Yatqwan, an expression meaning 'local people, original inhabitants' (cf. Boas, 1917, p. 95, jki 'here'). Their speech is called yatqwan ?enAX. This is because the Yakutat people know that they once spoke Eyak, like those at Cordova. The same expression was used by a Dry Bay man to designate the language of the original Athabaskans in that area. Harrington renders the name yaat khwaan, 'here-people.' One of my informants, however, believed that originally the Cordova people spoke like the Chitina people (Atna), but later changed their language to Eyak, although he did not know why or how. In referring to the Eyak, the particular subdivisions (town or sib) are designated just as they would be among the Tlingit. Thus, another term is 'i-yaqqwan, 'people of Eyak,' for their former village on Eyak Lake, while others might be called 'Alaganik people,' or 'AnAxAnA-qqwan (cf. Birket-Smith and de Laguna, 1938, pp. 543-545). The Copper River Eyak sibs, one Eagle (gutcgalAq) and two Raven (or Crow, tcile), were fitted into the Yakutat and Tlingit system. The Tlingitized people of QaryAx formed a connecting link between the Cordova Eyak and the Yakutat. TLINGIT Whereas lingit (cf. Boas, 1917, p. 129) means simply 'human being, man/ the Yakutat people in using the English word "Tlingit" may mean by this only the "southeast Alaska Tlingit," or may also include them- selves, depending upon the context. The attitude of any given resident towards the Tlingit of the south- eastern Alaskan panhandle apparently varies according to his own derivation, since quite a few people have moved to Yakutat, especially from Sitka, or are the children of such a southeastern man or woman. Or, his attitude may depend on the traditions of the sib to which he belongs, or of that of his father, as well as upon his own personal experiences. Thus, for a man from Katalla, the southeastern Tlingit as a whole were evidently rather alien and to be distrusted when visited in their own country. Most of my other informants however, traced their descent on one or both sides from Tlingit immigrants who had come long ago to Dry Bay or to Yakutat, and they distinguished clearly between the Sitka or Juneau sibs to which they could claim affiliation, and those with which they had no ties or which were perhaps traditional enemies or rivals of their sib. Yet perhaps all felt somewhat on the de- fensive, ready to resent any remark which might be in- 216 SMITHSONIAN CONTRIBUTIONS TO ANTHROPOLOGY VOLUME 7 terpreted as a slurring reference to the backwardness of Yakutat in general, and quick to praise the superiorities of Yakutat, while stressing their own personal connec- tions with the more aristocratic and sophisticated south. The Yakutat people were familiar with all the Northern Tlingit tribes?most had been to Sitka or Juneau, some to Hoonah and Klukwan and Angoon? but when they came to speak of the groups living south of Frederick Sound, their knowledge was less secure. All the Southern Tlingit might be lumped together as "Kake." Few persons knew the names for even the major geographical features, or were content to desig- nate a locality as vaguely "below Ketchikan." Farther south, beyond Tlingit territory, live the Haida and Tsimshian, with whom the Yakutat people had commercial dealings. HAIDA The Haida, Dekina, (Swanton, 1908, p. 414, Deki'na, 'Nation-far-out [at sea]'), were sometimes included in the vague expression "West Coast Natives" by the Yakutat people. They were known to make excellent canoes, highly prized by all the Tlingit. Some of the Yakutat people had such canoes 50 years or so ago, and some of their slaves had been purchased from the Haida. Harrington was told by a White man at Yakutat that at one time the Haida, as well as the Sitka Tlingit, used to come in big canoes to the Copper River to trade for native copper. The Cordova Eyak demanded high prices for their bars and knives of copper, but the Haida were rich and could offer many goods in return. These voyages were not mentioned by our informants. Rather, we gather that it was the Yakutat themselves who sometimes journeyed south to meet the Haida. A type of song, usually a love song addressed to sib- children (pp. 571-572), is called a 'Haida mouth song,' because it is composed in Haida style. These and Haida love songs with Haida words were sung at Yakutat. The term, Dekina, however, is not applied exclusively to the Haida. It was used (primarily?) for the people of Dall Island: Henya and Klawak Tlingit, as well as the Haida Kaigani. One of our informants, in fact, spoke of the "Tekina?'people way out,' maybe Klawak," and again as "Klawak people, almost the same as Haida." The word may originally have designated the Tlingit of Dall Island, before the Kaigani settled there, rather than the Kaigani or Haida. This is suggested by the fact that when Kuskov, in reporting to Baranov the Indian plot against the Russians (July 1, 1802, pp. 171-172), used this name, he seems to have been referring to a Tlingit group, probably the KiksAdi sib of the Henya. Harrington's informants were also uncertain as to the exact use of the name. Jack Ellis reported that "Teek- khiinaa" meant "the outermost tribe," specifically the Haida, "since the Haida were on the islands that lay way off the coast." Peter Lawrence from Sitka said that "Teekkhiinaa," or "way out," meant a "Haidaburg Indian," and he called the Masset Haida "Teekkhi- ikkhwwcon." While others of Yakutat agreed that "Teekkhiinaa, way-out people" were the Haida, they felt that "Teekkhiikkhwaan" ['way-out dwellers'] were more properly the coastal Tlingit from Juneau to Sitka (Harrington). TSIMSHIAN The Tsimshian, Tsutsxan, (Boas, 1917, p. 10, tsutsxAn; Swanton, 1908, p. 414, Tshitsxa'n), were regarded by the Yakutat people as the smartest, best carvers, and the best painters. "Tsimshian made" was an expression indicating the finest workmanship. A great deal of the carved regalia, including headdresses (cAki'At), dance batons, and rattles, used at Yakutat had evidently been made by the Tsimshian. Swanton (ibid.) reports that, for the Tlingit as a whole, the Tsimshian were "esteemed as a people of high culture from whom new ideas and customs reached them." Thus, many persons at Yakutat are said to know and sing Tsimshian songs; some are dancing songs with "old-fashioned words," purchased from the Tsimshian when they used to come to Yakutat in the 1880's and 1890's to hunt sea otter, and would sing and dance. Other songs are shamanistic, with Tsimshian words because the spirits have come from shamans of that tribe. Probably many ceremonial and religious elabora- tions reached the Northern Tlingit, including the Yakutat, from the Tsimshian. The Yakutat people used to go to Metlakatla to trade with them, especially since the Tsimshian, like the Haida, could supply big husky slaves. The Tsimshian parties that came to Yakutat had to obtain permission to hunt sea otter from the "Yakutat Chief," the leading chief of the Kwackwan sib who controlled the hunting grounds at Icy Bay. On one occasion there was almost a fight between the Tsimshian and the Yakutat Indians. Harrington gives the name "Tsuutz-xi.n" for the Tsimshian; the people of Nass River would be known as "Naaskhwaan." WAKASHAN AND SALISH "West Coast Indian" is the English expression applied to the Kwakiutl, Nootka, Makah, and Coast Salish, who have flattened heads. They are called T'awyat or T'oyat in Tlingit, although this name does not mean literally 'flat head.' In former times a num- ber of Yakutat chiefs had some of these "Flathead Indians" as slaves; the last were freed at a potlatch in 1910; others are said to have attempted an escape in a canoe perhaps 50 or 60 years before that. In the last century a few wealthy people at Yakutat also had IN THREE PARTS MYTH, LEGEND, AND MEMORY 217 Nootka-type 'goose canoes,' obtained from the "West Coast Indians." These were purchased from parties of flat-headed Indians who used to come to Yakutat on a schooner to hunt sea otter. Every night they and the Yakutat people danced "against" each other; one night the West Coast or "Washington Indians" danced onboard their schooner, the next night the Yakutat people danced on shore. They also bet against each other in the stick game. The Yakutat people learned many of their songs. West Seattle and Victoria were specifically mentioned as their homes. The heads were said to be flattened in order to "fit their head pieces"! Swanton (1908, p. 423) applied the term "Tlawiya't- q!a" to "the Flatheads (i.e., Kwakiutl)." According to Harrington, Jack Ellis equated the term "T'owya-t" with "Siwash," a derogatory term. "The Tlingit get mad if you call them Siwash," it is said. "They come to blows." The true T'owya-t or Siwash were "far- south Indians who were the source of slaves, notably, but it was mostly the Haida who captured or got them, and sold them to the Tlingit. I t was the Coast Siwash who got made slaves, the inland Siwash naturally could not be gotten." GJ rendered the name as "T'uuyyaat," but knew only that they had flat heads. Peter Lawrence called them "T'awyaat," and specified that they came from Neah Bay, i.e., were Makah. "They used to come here fur-seal hunting; twenty schooners would put in at Yakutat to get water, and sometimes a Japanese schooner." A number of Cordova and Katalla Eyak and some Yakutat people had evidently had some contact with "States Indians," expecially at the native school at Chimawa, Oreg. As George Johnson told Harrington, when he was a boy, "they took 12 boys from Katalla to Chimawa, Oregon, school. Only two came back alive, two girls. Ten died there." They wanted the informant to go, but he apparently refused. "The State Indians and the Alaska Indians never get along so good at Chimawa, for the State Indians are wards of the Government and the Government has never declared the status of the Alaska Indians. . . ." The inform- ant's maternal grandfather made two trips to Portland (called "hr-iwaatl'An"). "That used to be a risky trip, for these State Indians used to attack these Tlingits. The Tlingits had to be on the watch all the time." ETTHOPEANS, AMEEICANS, AND ORIENTALS White people are sometimes called Gus-liAyi-qwan or Gus-Mya-qwan (the old pronunciation), or Gus- lA-qwan (the newer, faster form). Many variants were recorded, such as Guts-kiya-qwan, etc. The name was translated as "people from the other side of the world," literally 'cloud outside-of people.' (Cf. Boas, 1917, p. 155, gus, 'cloud.') Harrington (MS 1939-40) recorded the forms "Kuts kii-khwaan" from GJ, and "Xuus [Kus] Myi khwan" from JE, meaning 'horizon people,' 'people from where the sky, or clouds, meet the ground,' or 'horizon-end-of people.' This was apparently the older name for all White people, but used at Yakutat now to designate the Russians. A White person is now commonly called TlEd (or Tlet)-qa (cf. Boas, 1917, p. 164, tlet, 'snow'). Jack Ellis told Harrington that it was not until after 1850 that this translation of the English term, "White man" ("Tleet^khwan," 'like snow people'), began to be used. "And now the school youngsters distinguish between English, German, French, etc," he added. This was in 1940, before World War II brought so much knowledge of foreigners and distant parts. Swanton (1908, p. 414) writes that "Let qoan (white or snow people)" or even "Gu'tskli qoan (people from the place where the clouds reach down to the earth?i.e., horizon people)" are terms used by the Tlingit for White people in general, but that the Russians were "A"nu'ci," while the British were "Gl'ndj ttcw&n, a corruption of the 'King George Man' of the Chinook jargon." We also recorded Gandjitcwan or KmdjidjwAn for the "King George Men of Prince Rupert" (Ca- nadians and British). This was said to be the newer term, the older name being NAngmAn. Americans were Wactmqwan, or 'Boston Men.' Other nationalities known to the Yakutat people because of their visits or residence in the area were Swedish (missionaries) Norwegian (seamen, fishermen), Finnish (missionary), German (prospectors, traders, etc.), Italian (Alpinists), Japanese (cannery workers, seamen, photographers), and Filipino and Chinese (can- nery workers). The last were called TcanwAn, 'China- man.' A number of Americans, foreign Whites, and Orientals have married native women. Despite the fact that a number of Yakutat boys served in the Army overseas, there seems to be no enmity felt toward the Germans or Japanese. The Russians are still remem- bered, however, with hatred. Two Yakutat natives were at first suspicious of my name and questioned me closely to make sure that I had no connection with the Russians. Sibs Among the Gulf of Alaska Peoples or Important in Their History A list of sibs among the Yakutat and their neighbors has already been given on page 20, but it may be repeated here with some modifications. These groups are identified and then- history briefly sketched in the following pages: 218 SMITHSONIAN CONTRIBUTIONS TO ANTHROPOLOGY VOLUME 7 Tldymedi {Raven) Eyak "GanAxte'di" (GanAXAdi) Qiisledi (Kosl&di) "TlukwaxAdi" GalyAxqwan "GanAxte'di" [Kwaci:qwan] Yakutat: Original residents. __Hinyedi Koskedi StaxAdi Later residents KwacKqwan (from Copper River) TTuknaxAdi (from Dry Bay) Most recent immigrants__ThikwaxAdi from Dry Bay Recently married in CAnJcuqedi (Wolf-Eagle) Tcicqedi (Tcicqwedi) Tcicqedi Galyix-Kagwantan .YEnyedi Dry Bay?Akwe River TlukwaxAdi Kos&edi TTuknaxAdi (from SE Alaska) Lituya Bay DAqdentan Other Groups involved in Yakutat History: KiksAdi of Sitka GanAxtedi of Chilkat Tlaxayik-Teqwedi . GAlyix-Kagwantan (from the west) Teqwedi (from Dry Bay) -CAnkuqedi Kagwantan (Box House) -Tcicqedi (from Katalla) Kagwantan (from Sitka, and Chilkat) YAnyedi (from Taku) Wuckitan (from Juneau) CAnkuqedi (from Chilkat) Kagwantan (from southeast Alaska) TcukAnedi "Daqt'awedi" i.e., Nanya'- ayi of Wrangell Wuckitan of Angoon GANAXTEDI The"GanAxte'di" were an important Raven sib at the mouth of the Copper River, said to "own" Cordova and Alaganik, and also to live as far east as Katalla. They are said to have been part of the original group that emigrated from Chitina on the Copper River, but became lost in the fog and so were separated from those who went on to Yakutat and became the Kwaci:qwan. The first settlement of the GanAxte'di on the Copper River delta was at Saxwfel:, 'Behind the Cockles.' Xatgawet, a prominent Teqwedi trader from Akwe River and Yakutat married one of their women and gave her "brothers" the name GanAxtedi hi imitation of the famous Chilkat sib at Klukwan. Those from Cordova used to come by canoe to Yakutat in June, presumably to trade. Swanton (1908, p. 400) recognizes groups at Chilkat and Yakutat whom he calls "GanAXA'dl." However, when one of our informants said that long ago there had been GanAxtedi or GanAXAdi at Yakutat, I believe he was referring to visitors from Chilkat, like those encountered by Ismailov and Bocharov at Yakutat in 1788 (pp. 134-135). The GanAxtedi or GanAXAdi of Chilkat are associated with the early history of the Tl'uknaxAdi (Ravens) and the CAnkuqedi (Wolf-Eagles) of Dry Bay (see below). TLTJKWAXADI Althoughagroupcalled"TlukwaxAdi"weresaid to have lived at Alaganik, nothing further is known about them, except that they were distinct from the people of the same name at Dry Bay. They may have been given this same designation, however, to imply an Athabaskan origin. IN THREE PARTS MYTH, LEGEND, AND MEMORY 219 QUSK'ilDI A branch of the "Kos&edi" of Yakutat and Dry Bay, or more probably an entirely different group, since they are usually called QusKe'di or Quskedi, was one of the Raven sibs at Cordova, said to have been named by the much-marrying Xatgawet. TCICQEDI The Tcicqedi or Tcicqwedi are an Eagle sib of the Eyak, especially associated with Katalla and Cape Martin, although they also lived at Cordova and on Controller Bay. They had settlements at Kokenhenik on the Copper River delta, at Cape Martin, on Salmon River near Katalla, at Katalla, on Wingham Island, at Chilkat on Bering River, and on Bering Lake. The Tcicqedi are reputed to be a branch of the Gatyix- Kagwantan, who followed the latter "after the Flood" to Kaliakh River. Finding that the only dry land was already occupied, they had to settle farther west in a swampy area, where they were given lands by their "fathers," the Eyak GanAxtedi. However, the latter took back some of their territory when they found that the Tcicqedi were getting too many furs. The latter event is said to have taken place when the grandfather of a man born in 1892 was still alive. The Galyix-Kagwantan are said to consider them rather low class. The version of then- origin as told by another in- formant is simply that they branched off from the Galyix-Kagwantan because there were too many people in one house. For a time they seem to have been on good terms with the latter, for the two groups are said to have had houses side by side on Bering Lake. These were destroyed by a flood. More recently, during the lifetime of the father of a man born in 1912, the Tcicqe"di attempted to build a house at Chilkat on Bering River and at Strawberry Point on Controller Bay, but were prevented by the Galyrx-Kagwantan, who also claimed territory as far west as Strawberry Point, and a fight ensued. The "capital" of the Tcicqedi was at Katalla. One Tcicqedi man has an Eagle House at Yakutat, but there are no other representatives of his sib here. Several Kwaclqwan individuals had fathers in this sib. Because the Tcicqedi were considered to be a western branch of the Gaiyix-Kagwantan, their name is some- tunes used to designate the eastern branch, or Tlaxayik- Teqwedi, although the latter were a separate group. Emmons (MS.) reports that the "Tschisqwaytee" women did not wear the labret. The name, Tcicqedi, is evidently synonymous with Tcicyu, 'red paint people/ a matrilinial sib widely dis- tributed among the Atna, Tanana, Yukon Tena, Tanaina, etc. Among the Atna who have moieties, the Tcicyu are ranked as "Seagull," as opposed to the "Crow." Our Yakutat informant specified that the "Eagle" sib at Chitina was the Tcicqwedi, which is thus in agreement with what McClellan and I found among the Atna (1954). Possibly a branch of these people did come to the coast via the overland route to the Duktoth River near Cape Yakataga, and from there spread westward. The tradition of their move to the Copper River is probably that recorded at Cordova in 1935 as the adoption of a people called "qatliya d3(iax tflaqEiyu," which should probably be translated as "people from Kaliakh" (Birket-Smith and de Laguna, 1938, pp. 124, 544). (JALYIX-KAGWANTAN The Garyix-Kagwantan (or GalyAx-Kagwantan) are an Eagle sib, once very large, which claims territorial rights from Strawberry Point in Controller Bay to Williams Creek west of Icy Bay. The first part of their name refers to their principal village, GaHyAx or GalyAx, which was formerly at the mouth of the Kaliakh River. They were also one of the groups named by Xatgawet, who married their chief's daughter and called his father-in-law's people "Kagwantan" after the famous sib at Chilkat and Sitka and Hoonah. These people, together with their Kwackqwan or Eyak Raven wives, make up the tribal group called "Guth- le-uk-qwan" by Emmons (1903, pp. 231 f.). According to one informant, the Garyrx-Kagwantan were the group who became lost in the fog when emi- grating from the Copper River, but this story more properly applies to the Raven GanAxtedi of Cordova. According to a Tcicqedi man, the Galyrx-Kagwantan were originally Sitka people who came in Haida-built canoes to the Copper River to trade for copper and who settled at Katalla. But this story is evidently inspired by an attempt to link his own people and the Garyix-Kagwantan to the Sitka Kagwantan. Their own version is that "after the Flood," when they were drifting on the ocean, they saw a beautiful mountain (Kulthieth) and so were attracted to the Kaliakh River, where they preempted the dry ground for their houses. Here they repulsed an attack by the "Aleuts" on GaiyAx, when Xatgawet fought beside his father-in-law. Later(?) they spread westward, and established themselves in the Controller Bay area. The site of their original(?) Beaver House was on Bering Lake, and it was also in the vicinity of Bering River that they acquired the Beaver as their crest. They had other settlements at Strawberry Point, at Redwood Bay, at Chilkat on Bering River, on Wingham Island, at the base of Okalee Spit, on the Kaliakh River above GaryAx, and probably also a camp or settlement at Cape Yakataga. 220 SMITHSONIAN CONTRIBUTIONS TO ANTHROPOLOGY VOLUME 7 One of the groups "organized" for purposes of trade by Xatgawet were the Wuhxac-Kagwantan, or 'drifted- away Kagawantan,' who originated at Katalla. It is not clear whether this term should be applied to the Galyix-Kagwantan as a whole, since they once drifted on the ocean, to a branch living on Controller Bay, or to the Tcicqedi who claimed Katalla as their "capital." The Galyrx-Kagwantan are associated with the history of Yakutat proper, for the Raven emigrants (Gmex-qwan or KwacE:qwan) from the Copper River encountered at Icy Bay a group of Galyix-Kagwantan who had moved east after a quarrel with their kinsmen. These people were traveling in big skin or wooden canoes. They intermarried with the Copper River Ravens, and moved with them across Yakutat Bay, when, according to some, they became known as the Tlaxayik-Teqwedi. According to others, they were the first to reach Yakutat. When the Copper River Ravens acquired Knight Island and the Humpback Salmon Creek in Yakutat Bay, some informants said that one or both of these properties were purchased by a Galyix-Kagwantan chief for his Raven children. The Garyix-Kagwantan claim to have found the wreck of a Russian ship (on the coast west of Icy Bay?), the first Russian ship seen, and one of their number married a Russian woman, the sole survivor. The members of this sib are proud of the reputation which links them with the Sitka Kagwantan as being fierce warriors. The territory is admitted to be rich in furs, and they were traditionally wealthy in copper. The Galyix-Kagwantan have traditionally inter- married with the Kwackqwan. Emmons (MS.) reports that they had a house at Khantaak Island, but this could not be confirmed. In any case, a number have more recently moved to Yakutat. Here they formerly owned a lineage house, still standing, but no longer in the possession of the sib. The Galyix-Kagwantan are today represented at Yakutat by two women, their children and grandchildren; a few others live at Cordova or in the States below Alaska. ORIGINAL INHABITANTS OF THE YAKUTAT AEEA The original inhabitants of the Yakutat area have been called "Aleuts," and one informant reported that the immigrants from the Copper River purchased their lands from them. According to others, the group that sold their territories to the Copper River Indians were the KosSedi (Ravens), the Hinyedi (Ravens), or YEnyedi (Eagles). Other names applied more specifi- cally to the original occupants of the lowlands east of Yakutat Bay are the L'u?edi (Eagles), who may or may not be the same as the Tlaxayik-Teqwedi, and the StaxAdi (Ravens). Farther east, in the Dry Bay area lived the TlukwaxAdi (Athabaskan Ravens) and the Koskedi. It is possible that at an early time there were only various groups scattered along the coast that lacked formal sib or moiety organization, although in- formants now assign such status to all the peoples mentioned. HINYEDI One very well-informed Kwacl:qwan man said that his people, on coming from the Copper River, purchased their lands at Yakutat from the Raven Hinyedi. After selling their territories, these people emigrated to southeastern Alaska; most are believed to live near Ketchikan, but there are a few in Juneau. The Hinyedi are not mentioned by Swanton. Although the name suggests that it may refer to a 'river' (hin), this ety- mology was rejected by my informant. He also told me that these people were called S tax Adi, after the eastern branch, Staxe'ya, of the Arhnklin River, the last of their territory to be sold, and which was acquired by the Drum House Teqwedi. However, most of my other informants said that StaxAdi was only another name for the Kwac&qwan, although a derogatory one, and no one else used the term Hinyedi. J KOSKEDI The Koskedi (Ravens) were among the names given by two KwacK;qwan informants to designate the original inhabitants of the Yakutat area. According to their version of the tradition, these people sold their land to the immigrants from the Copper River (the Kwackqwan), and then moved to southeastern Alaska, being now found at Sitka. Swanton, who recorded such a version (1909, Tale 105), lists them both at Sitka and at Hoonah as Koskle'dt, 'people of Kose'x or Kosle'x.' He considers them to be Athabaskan in origin, and to be one of the Tlingit groups that originated in the Dry Bay area. Some of his informants said that they were a branch of the Ti'uknaxAdi, "though others state that they came from the coast farther west from the StAxa'dt of Copper river, who appear to have been Athapascans" (Swanton, 1908, p. 413; cf. pp. 399, 400). Swanton's "Kosle'x" is apparently the famous town, Gusex, on the Akwe River just west of Dry Bay, the "capital" of the Ti'uknaxAdi. One of my informants said that the Koskedi did in fact live with the latter in Frog House, and that they used to accompany the Tl'uknaxAdi on summer trips to Yakutat. This group of Koskedi apparently moved to Sitka when Gusex was abandoned, but apparently still feel that they are a part of the Ti'uknaxAdi. It is not at all evident, how- ever, that these Akwe-Sitka Koskedi were ever the original inhabitants of Yakutat. Swanton (1909, Tale 32, p. 161) also records another version of the origin of the Koskedi. According to this story they were a branch of the Ti'uknaxAdi at the tune IN THREE PARTS MYTH, LEGEND, AND MEMORY 221 the latter moved north from southeastern Alaska to Dry Bay, but acquired their name from the place at which they camped in order to obtain roots to make into a dried pressed food called "t!Aganlsk!ex." Swanton doubts this etymology. According to this story, the Koskedi built a house which they roofed with moose hide, becoming the Moose House People (Xas! hit tan, cf. Swanton, 1908, pp. 407, 409, 413). Emmons (MS.) writes that the "Kuse ka di" were an offshoot of the Tl'uknaxAdi ("Thluke nub. ut di"), and came with them from Dry Bay to Yakutat, where they were mentioned as among the first people. How- ever, they continued westward, and "while a few remain [as of 1910?], none have houses here today and only a few are found married in the other families [sibs], so they do not constitute a family of the tribe today." As already mentioned, one of the Raven sibs of the Cordova Eyak were called "Koskedi" or Quskedi, but are probably a different group. It seems doubtful that the name, Kos&edi, should properly be given to any Raven group west of the Dry Bay area. STAiXADI The StaxAdi are also difficult to identify. One informant said they were named for the eastern branch of the Ahrnklin River, the last piece of territory sold by the Hinyedi before their emigration. Others apply the term to the Kwackqwan, especially to the Moon House lineage. However, it is said to be a name used by the Tl'uknaxAdi when "they want to be mean to the Kwacliqwan." I do not know why it should be resented, unless it implies assimilation by the Kwaclsqwan of an inferior autochthonous group. This designation, however, but without the derogatory implications, is accepted by several members of the Kwackqwan. Swanton (1908, p. 413) identifies the "StAxa'dl" as Athabaskans of Copper River, and says that the Kwackqwan are called by the same name because their dances are similar to those of the true "StAxa'dl." It is true that the Kwackqwan are accustomed to dance in Atna style. A Kagwantan informant told me that when the Tl'uknaxAdi used to come to Yakutat to trade, the StaxAdi or Kwackqwan would hide in the woods, until a "great man organized them" into a trading relation- ship. This is undoubtedly a reference to Xatgawet. TENTEDI According to three more Kwackqwan informants, the original inhabitants of Yakutat Bay were the Eagle YEnyedi or YAnyedi. After selling their lands, the last of which was the Ahrnklin region, the YAnyedi went to Taku, where they now live. They walked into the mterior up one of the glaciers at the head of Yakutat Bay (probably via Nunatak Glacier), and went to Tcanukwa on the headwaters of the Alsek, to "Taku Lake" (Atlin Lake), and came eventually to Klukwan and Taku. A Kagwantan informant said only that they had separated from other Eagle groups "after the Flood." Swanton (1908, pp. 399, 412) calls them the Yenye'dl, ?'mainland people' or 'place of hemlock people/ and believes them to be a branch of the Nanyaa'yl, a promi- nent Wolf sib among the southern Tlingit. The latter are said to have come from the Tsimshian coast to the south, but Lieutenent Emmons is quoted as suggesting (more correctly) that they were originally an interior group (Swanton, 1908, p. 411 and footnote). Garfield (1947, pp. 447, 449) quotes Angoon informants who identify the YimyEdi as the ancestors of the Daql'awedi and Wuckitan (Wolf sibs represented at Angoon), who had moved down the Stikine and Taku Rivers to the coast (cf. de Laguna, 1960, pp. 137-140). The name, therefore, may be one which is used rather loosely to designate any Eagle-Wolf mainland or inland group. Some 70 or more years ago, a number of YEnyedi from below Wrangell came to Yakutat. Then- descendants are today among the Yakutat people, but while there are also more recently married-in YEnyedi, the sib as such is not established in the area. The L'uiedi or Tl'uxedi (Eagles) are also reported to have been the original owners of Yakutat. They spoke Eyak. Then? name refers to the muddy glacial waters (l'u? or tl'ui) of the Situk River which formerly drained an ice-dammed lake at the head of Russell Fiord, (Harrington renders 'muddy water, glacier water' as tl'uux, but give no names for the sib.) This group is particularly associated with the Situk and Lost Rivers, east of Yakutat. A few persons even assign them to the Humpback Salmon Creek or to the Ahrn- klin River. They are sometimes equated with the Tlaxayik-Teqwedi, or even with the Garyix-Kagwantan, although one person said that the latter "just called themselves L'u^edi." The same informant reported that the t'u^edi had just come up from southeastern Alaska, when the G^y^Kagwantan crossed Yakutat Bay from the west and discovered their presence from the peeled stalks of wildcelery which the former had dropped. Her husband, however, reports that this was the way the Kwackqwan discovered the Hinyedi. According to Swanton's version of the Kwackqwan migration from the Copper River (1909, Tale 105), the "L!uq!oe'dt" and the "Kosle'di," both Athabas- kans, were then living together at Yakutat, but the Lluqloe'di emigrated with the latter when they sold their Humpback Salmon stream. 222 SMITHSONIAN CONTRIBUTIONS TO ANTHROPOLOGY VOLUME 7 Most of my informants, however, spoke as if the L'uiedi were either the same as the Tlaxayrk-Teqwedi, or had merged with them. They built the Eagle Fort on the upper Situk Eiver after they had expelled the Russians. Other towns of theirs were NEtsilhuwA-wAt- 'an on Aka Lake (destroyed by the southeastern Alaskan Teqwedi), Diyaguna'Et on the west branch of Lost River (also acquired by the latter), and 'Shallow Water Town' on Little Lost River (acquired by the Teqwedi and given by their chief to the Kwacliqwan). The Teqwedi (Bear House lineage?) do not like to hear the name L'u&edi, we are told, because the latter killed so many of them on Situk and Lost River that they were never able to even the score. The Drum House Teqwedi, especially, do not like to be reminded of the L'u^edi. (Is this because they were enemies, or because the Drum House people merged with them ?) There are now no L'uiedi at Yakutat, and it is not known what became of them. If they were the same as, or were closely allied with, the Tlaxayik-Teqwedi, then they were probably wiped out by the Raven Ti'uknaxAdi (see pp. 261-270). Chief Daqusetc, the leading Teqwedi chief at Diyaguna 'Et and at Khantaak Island, had a L'u^edi woman slave. She was liberated at the potlatch after his death (about 1901?) and, like other freed slaves, was considered a low-class member of her owner's sib. It is probable that other L'u&edi have been absorbed in like manner by the Teqwedi. [According to Emmons (MS.), the Eagle or Wolf] "Tlu qua di were a very early people before the Tlingit who originally spoke the Interior tongue [Athabaskan, not Eyak?], who came down the Alsech from the Interior. From Dry Bay they went north and became an important part of the Yakutat tribe and are mentioned as among the original settlers there. Their principal village was on the Situk River where they had a stockaded fort Chak nu (Eagle Fort) [see page 79]. They were defeated in wars with the Thluke nuh hut di [Tl'uknaxAdi] and their fort destroyed. They are said to have led the attack on the Russian post at Yakutat, and fearing reprisals, they afterwards returned to the Alsech. They are no longer represented in this tribe and the name only is remembered." In this connection, we should note the traditions and evidence concerning the movements of coastal groups up the Alsek River, and the eventual disappear- ance of these settlers at 'Eddy Fort', or 'Kinnikinnik Leaves' (pp. 83,89). The YEnyedi or L'u?edi or Tlaxayik-Tekwedi may have been the parent group for the "Nua Qua" (Nuqwaqwan), whose last chief, Tmna sati, died on the upper Alsek about 100 years ago. We should also note that a different sib, also called the L'u^edi, are associated with Sitka. According to Swanton, (1907, vol. 2, p. 766) they are the L!u'q!oedf, 'white people,' an almost extinct Eagle sib, named for the color of white water. Garfield's Angoon informants (1947, pp. 466f.) said that they were a branch of the Teqwedi which had settled at the foot of Mount Edgecomb on the southern end of Kruzof Island, a place which my Yakutat informants also called L'u?. (de Laguna, 1960, p. 144). Here the name seems to refer to the stormy waters encountered in that locality, which figure in the early history of the residents (Swanton 1909, Tale 17). My informant who traced the Yakutat L'uiedi back to southeastern Alaska was probably relying upon this similarity in the descriptive names, for other persons indicated clearly that the Yakutat group was distinct from any branch of the Teqwedi from Sitka. TtAXAYIK-TE QWEDI The Tlaxayik-Teqwedi, commonly regarded as a branch of the Galyix-Kagwantan, were the most im- portant Eagle sib in the early history of Yakutat. They spoke Eyak, and their name is derived from the Eyak name for Yakutat Bay, tla'xa'f, plus the Tlingit suffix -yik, 'inside.' (Harrington, MS., 1939-40, tlhaa- xxaatthi, 'the whole great Yakutat Bay,' -yik 'inside.') As already suggested, the Tlaxayik-Teqwedi are prob- ably the same as the L'uxedi, or these two names may designate two branches of the same people living on the bay and on the rivers. Both names were, moreover, given by different informants to those who defeated the Russians, built Eagle Fort on the Situk, and were finally crushed at WuganiyE above Point Latouche. At an earlier period, the Tlaxayns-Teqwedi are said to have lived on Knight Island, and, under Xatgawet's (?) leadership, fortified adjacent Little Fort Island against the "Aleut." The people of Knight Island were also embroiled with the TlukwaxAdi of Dry Bay. This prob- ably represents an early phase of the enmity between the Yakutat Eagles and the Dry Bay Ravens which led to the destruction of the Ttaxayik-Teqwedi by the Tl'uknaxAdi. The Tlaxaydi-Teqwedi are no longer found at Yakutat; probably the survivors merged with the Teqwedi from southeastern Alaska, or, as suggested, fled into the interior. Some of their great names are now borne by Galyix-Kagwantan and Teqwedi individuals at Yakutat. KWACK'QWAN The Kwackqwan (Swanton, 1908, p. 400, Ka'ckte- qoan) are named for the Humpback Salmon Creek on the east side of Yakutat Bay. The name for the stream, kwac?, is simply the Eyak word for humpback salmon, whereas the Tlingit word is teas. This Raven sib traces its origin to Chitina on the Copper River, which they IN THREE PARTS MYTH, LEGEND, AND MEMORY 223 left following a dispute over the inheritance of a dead chief's property. The original group was called Gmexqwan or GinExqwan after the Bremner River, or LdaxEnqwan or Ltahinqwan after the Tana River. At the time of their emigration they spoke the Copper River language, i.e., Atna Athabaskan, and some songs in this language are still preserved at Yakutat, and some personal names are Atna words. Part of the emigrants became separated from the others and became the Eyak GanAxtedi. The rest of the group traveled overland, past Mount Saint Elias, which they therefore claim as a crest, and at Icy Bay married a group of Galyix-Kagwantan. They later crossed Yakutat Bay and eventually obtained possession of that area, in- cluding the stream from which their present name is derived, through purchase from the original inhabitants. Swanton (1909, Tale 105) gives one version of their story, indicating that their first lineage house, Moun- tain House, was built at Icy Bay. This was perhaps the settlement destroyed by the glacier long ago. Their territory includes Icy Bay and the east shore of Yakutat Bay as far as the site of the Yakutat airfield. One of their earliest villages in the Yakutat area was on Knight Island, with the founding of which some informants would associate the ubiquitous Xatgawet. Although the latter is said to have married several Kwadsqwan women, he is not credited with assigning a name to their sib, although he named the village on Knight Island TlAkw-'an, 'Old Town,' after the famous Chilkat town. The Kwacl:qwan woman who was cap- tured by the Tl'uknaxAdi of Gusex is said to have been his sister-in-law; at any rate she was the sister of the Kwackqwan chief of Knight Island. A member of this sib played a part in the defeat of the Russians at Yakutat, and there is also a vague suggestion that they may have aided the Tl'uknaxAdi when the latter fought the Tlaxayik-Teqwedi, in order to obtain a share of the Russian loot. The Kwaci:qwan were also involved in wars or fights with the "Aleuts," including both the Chugach and the sea otter hunters impressed by the Russians. They also fought with people (unidentified, Galyix-Kagwantan?) living at Icy Bay, who attacked the Kwackqwan when they came from the Copper River, and who tried to keep secret their sealing canoes (gudiyE). The village on Knight Island was apparently abandoned in pre-Russian times, and after the expulsion of the Russians the principal village of the Kwackqwan was Nessudat on Lost River, where three of their four houses were Raven's Bones House (the residence of their ranking chief), Fort House, and Moon House. They also had Aka on Aka Lake, south of Yakutat, and 'Hill-Top Town' on Summit Lake a little farther east, both wiped out by smallpox. The site of 'Shallow Water Town' on Little Lost River had been given by the Teqwedi chief to his Kwacliqwan brother-in-law, but at that time it was only a garden for native tobacco. Later the Kwackqwan had houses at Khantaak Island, before they moved to the Old Village and the modern town of Yakutat near the cannery. They are today the most numerous sib in the area. Until fairly recently, the Kwac]?qwan used to travel every year to the mouth of the Copper River, to meet and trade with their Atna relatives, but these journeys may not have been begun before White exploration of the Copper River. The Kwackqwan are particularly noted for their Copper River style of dancing and singing. [According to Emmons (MS.): The] "Quash qua kwan came from the upper reaches of the Copper River across the Mt. St. Elias range and reached Disenchantment Bay. Later they crossed to the southern shore where they met the Tlingit who at first turned them back. But later they purchased a humpback salmon stream, Qwash heene, on the mainland shore across from Knights Island [sic] in Yakutat Bay, from which they took their name, and in time were accepted into the tribe. They are found at Yakutat and on the numerous waters of Ankow, and constitute the most numerous family of the tribe, but socially are looked down upon by the older Tlingit. Their women never adopted the labret." It will be remembered (see page 76) that Emmons was told that a single household of the Qa^ushfttan, a Wolf sib of Henya from Prince of Wales Island, once lived among the Kwaci;qwan at Nessudat, but even at the time of his first visit (1884?) none remained. T?UE.WAXADI The original inhabitants of Dry Bay were the Raven TlukwaxAdi (Swanton, 1908, p. 400, tuqa'xAdi, 'quick people'). The daughter of a TlukwaxAdi man described them as Gunana (Athabaskans), but speaking a different dialect from that of the Taku Gunana, although like all "inside people" they used "sharp words." They are swift, just like an arrow, and other people were afraid of them because they could not catch up with them. Another informant described their language as something like that of the Copper River Indians at Chitina. It was definitely not Atna, and not Eyak. The name for Dry Bay is Gunaxo, contracted from Gunana-xo, 'among the Athabaskans.' The TlukwaxAdi made regular trips up the Alsek River into the interior to hunt, fish, gather berries, and to trade with their more inland neighbors who also came down the river on visits. In style of dress, in the use of cottonwood dugouts, in their greater 224 SMITHSONIAN CONTRIBUTIONS TO ANTHROPOLOGY VOLUME 7 reliance upon land animals and their somewhat inept and limited hunting of sea mammals, the TlukwaxAdi (or Dry Bay people in general) were more of a river than a coastal people. They are said to have raided the Ttaxayik-Teqwedi on Knight Island, and later, in fear of retaliation, built 'Eddy Fort' up the Alsek. After peace was declared they moved back to found a village at its mouth. (Possibly my informant confused a movement up the river by the Tiaxayik-Teqwedi with the history of the TlukwaxAdi.) Other settlements have been at or near Easting River on the east side of Dry Bay, and on Stuhinuk Creek on the west side. The TlukwaxAdi also lived at Gusex on the Akwe River farther west, a town chiefly associated with the Tl'uknaxAdi, although probably originally a TlukwaxAdi settlement. They are, in fact, said to be "pretty near the same" as the Tl'uknaxAdi. Since these two Raven sibs have married into the same Eagle sibs (CAnkuqedi, Kagwantan) at Dry Bay, the Tl'uknaxAdi are said to be "descended from the TlukwaxAdi," and vice versa, meaning that each group has the other as their fathers' fathers. The houses especially associated with the TlukwaxAdi were Far Out House at Gusex and Canoe Prow House at Dry Bay. With the abandonment of Dry Bay, the TlukwaxAdi have almost ceased to exist as a separate sib, and their original language is now forgotten. It is exceedingly difficult to identify any specific individuals as TlukwaxAdi rather than Tl'uknaxAdi, or to discover which sib owns the present Far Out House at Yakutat, even though my informants recognized the importance of the distinction. The TlukwaxAdi among the Chilkat presumably came from Dry Bay as a result of intermarriages linking the two areas (cf. Swanton, 1908, p. 413). Although a group sometimes called by this name is said to have lived among the Eyak at Alaganik, it was quite distinct from the Dry Bay and Chilkat groups, and, as already suggested, the term probably refers only to their Athabaskan affiliations. CANKUQEDI The remaining sibs in the Yakutat and Dry Bay areas are all (or all but one) supposed to be immigrants from southeastern Alaska. First (?) among these were the Eagle CAnkuqedi (or CAnkukedi; Swanton, 1908, p. 410, CAnkuke'df, named for a place near Kake called Can or Caya'). According to one of my informants they were separated from other Eagle groups "after the Flood." It should be recognized that their name, CAnkuqedi, is that given as a designation of the Wolf- Eagle moiety as a whole. One old man of the sib, Frank Italio, said that his people came from CXnda in southeastern Alaska. Their original home was near the Nass River, where they were nearly exterminated by the Tsimshian. It was a CAnkuqedi woman who then married the Sun (see the myth, "Children of the Sun," pp. 873-875). The CAnkuqedi came north, some going to Chilkat where they intermarried with the Raven GanAxtedi. This man also asserts that they were the first to become acquainted with the Atha- baskans above Chilkat, and that the GanAxtedi who like to claim this distinction only followed the CAnkuqedi. The latter traveled to Nuqwayik (Nuqwayik), the Tlingit-speaking settlement on the upper Alsek, passed by Glave (p. 89). They went to Klukshu and to Hutshi Lakes (tlukcu or tl'ukcu, and hutcai, both Southern Tutchone). At he latter place, CAnkuqedi women married Gunana men. From here the CAnkuqedi went to Tagish (taqic), where they hired the Tagish as guides. Their farthest journey was to Aiyan-'ani (probably Fort Selkirk on the Yukon), but many were drowned when attempting to cross the river at what appears to be Five Finger Rapids. Here the local chief gave them a number of songs. The CAnkuqedi became established at Dry Bay because a TtukwaxAdi man went to Chilkat to get a CAnkuqedi wife. The CAnkuqedi in their turn married the TlukwaxAdi and Tl'uknaxAdi at Dry Bay. Eventu- ally a better route was discovered down the Alsek, and this was later followed by the Teqwedi from southeast- ern Alaska. Although the CAnkuqedi are said to have been living with their spouses at Dry Bay long before the Russians came, they were not very numerous then nor at the time when the Tl'uknaxAdi were at war with the Tlaxayik-Teqwedi. They were living at Dry Bay when the Tl'uknaxAdi took some KwacE:qwan captives, including the noblewoman said to be Xatgawet's sister-in-law. Although the CAnkuqedi obtained their Thunderbird crest from an incident which involved a boy of their sib during a journey down the Alsek River, and although they built a Thunderbird House at Dry Bay in 1909, they do not dispute the prior claims of the TlukwaxAdi in that area. In fact, they do not seem to have acquired any formal territorial rights at all. Their real home is at Haines and Klukwan on the Chilkat River. The CAnkuqedi are sometimes known as the DAq- Estina, or TaqEstina (Swanton, 1908, p. 413, Taq- estina'). According to one of Swanton's informants, they were a branch of the Naste'dl of Kuiu Island, who, in migrating north to Chilkat, became lost in TAqsl't, the channel inside Wrangell Island. (This name is probably dAq 'inland,' and sit 'channel.') We were told simply that "at the time of the Flood," some of the CAnkuqedi went "way outside," while others went "way back inside." The name referring to the "inside" group is, however, felt to be derogatory, perhaps IN THREE PARTS MYTH, LEGEND, AND MEMORY 225 because it calls to mind their Gxmana connections, for which they were looked down upon by the GanAxtedi of Chilkat. Some relationship to the Kagwantan (see p. 228) is implied by the fact that their song to the Thunderbird Screen (1952, 2-1-F, p. 1171) is said to be also a Kagwantan song. The CAnkuqedi moved to Yakutat when the Dry Bay area was abandoned. Although they had a Thunder- bird House in Yakutat itself, this fell down about 1950. The sib is almost extinct. TEQWEDI The Teqwedi (Teqwwedi?) are a sib from south- eastern Alaska, now represented at Yakutat by two main lineages: Bear House and Drum House. Swanton (1908, p. 409) derives the Te'qoedt from a small island, Teq?, near the northern end of Prince of Wales Island, in what is now Haida (Kaigani) territory. "From all the accounts obtained it would seem that the Te'qoedl constituted a large part of the population of Prince of Wales island and moved to Tongas and Sanya at the time when the Haida immigration took place [ca. 1750?], whether that happened peaceably or otherwise. Part of them are now among the Hutsnuwu people [or Angoon] and part at Yakutat." One of our Yakutat informants said that the Tongass Teqwedi quarreled among themselves, because a young man in one house desired the young wife of the old chief in the next house. The chief's people killed their young sibmate, and so had to move. They went to Kiliisnoo (near Angoon) and eventually some came to Yakutat (cf. de Laguna, 1960, pp. 143 f). Another Yakutat informant said that the Teqwedi originated on an island (Tan, 'sea lion') somewhere "below Ketchikan," but split up over a woman. Different groups were named for the places where they settled. One group settled at Uu% on Kruzof Island near Sitka, and some of these, the Bear House lineage, came to Yakutat. Their previous home near Sitka was also called TandAx^an, 'the point behind the sea lions,' or L'u^dAkA, 'on the edge of Kruzof Island.' However, another informant said that the Teqwedi came from Tanyedax, "below Ketchikan" (i.e., Prince of Wales Island), traveling north in canoes, and were originally known as TandAqqwan, 'sea-lion alongside people.' Those that went outside came to Yakutat, while those that went inside became the DAql'awedi. Most of the latter stayed in Angoon, and are felt to be related to the Yakutat Teqwedi because they share with them the Killerwhale crest and many personal names. Garfield's Angoon informants (1947, pp. 433-449) and ours at Angoon (de Laguna, 1960, pp. 137-144) confirm the move of the Teqwedi from the south to Kruzof Island and from there to Yakutat, but derive the DAql'awedi from the Stikine YEnyedi. The Bear House group at Yakutat is also called Xel ('foam') Teqwedi, and one informant said they came from Saxman near Ketchikan. (Swanton, 1908, p. 399, lists the Xel qoan as an Eagle sib in the Stikine area.) All sources indicate that we have to distinguish between two lineages or subsibs, the Bear House Teqwedi (Xuts hittan) who came along the coast from Prince of Wales Island and, as TandAqqwan, are of pure Tlingit extraction, and the Drum House lineage (Gau hittan) who are associated with an inland route, and with Athabaskan connections. Emmons in par- ticular (see below, p. 226) makes clear the difference between these two groups, reserving the term "Ta qway di" for the Bear House line. The Teqwedi (lineage not specified, presumably both) seem to have come first to the Dry Bay area. Some apparently lived on Akwe River or their women married Raven men there, for Xatgawet, the famous trader, house chief, shaman, and organizer of backward groups, is said to have been born at Gusex of a Tl'uknaxAdi father (see the Story of tkettitc, pp. 243-245). He is said to have traveled extensively, marrying at least 10 wives, mostly the Kwacl;-ca daughters of prominent local men, so that he could become rich from the furs given him by his brothers-in-law (a typical Tlingit technique for "trading" with the Athabaskans). As we have seen, he "organized" the relatives of his wives, naming them after Chilkat sibs: GanAxtedi and Koskedi (Quskedi) of the Copper River delta, and^ the Kagwantan of GalyAx. Although we cannot be sure to which lineage he belonged, nor exactly when he lived, his behavior fits that of a southeastern Alaskan Tlingit, and I would take him for a Bear House man. From the many stories about him (pp. 245-247, 710-712), including the conflicting traditions that associate him with the pre-Russian village on Knight Island as well as with the post-Russian period at Diyaguna'Et on Lost River, we may take Xatgawet as exemplifying the northwest- ward spread of Tlingit trading customs, and probably of Tlingit ceremonial usages, including Tsimshian-derived shamanistic features. He is, in fact, a Teqwedi parallel in the Yakutat and Kaliakh areas of the Kagwantan traveler, QakexwtE, who came from Hoonah to the Dry Bay Athabaskans (pp. 270-272). I judge that the Bear House Teqwedi were originally introduced into the Yakutat area through marriage. The territory which they acquired was that formerly held by the L'u^edi, and included Lost and Situk Rivers, although the manner of their acquisition is not clear. Perhaps they fought for it, or perhaps they "only homesteaded" the area, as one Drum House informant expressed it, after the L'uiedi had been defeated by the Tl'trknaxAdi (brothers-in-law of the 226 SMITHSONIAN CONTRIBUTIONS TO ANTHROPOLOGY VOLUME 7 Teqwedi), although the sequence of events was never specified. There are evidently still some bitter memories which have inhibited full discussion of this history. At Diyaguna'Et the Teqwedi had a fortified village, not abandoned until the middle of the last century; they also had a village at Situk, where they were known as SitAq-qwan. Later, they were the leading houses in the village on Khantaak Island, and were also impor- tant in the founding of the Old Village, Yakutat. From Malaspina's evidence of the Bear figure and of the Killerwhale Fin emblem in the graveyard on Ankau Point, and from his mention of similar monuments on the south shore of Knight Island(?), we might speculate that the Bear House Teqwedi were already established on Yakutat Bay before Russian occupation. Although we cannot, of course, know to what Eagle-Wolf sib these tombs belonged, we find that the Teqwedi were associated with Knight Island, even into the last cen- tury, for Chief Daqusetc of Diyaguna'Et and Khantaak village is reported to have built a Bear House on this island. [According to Emmons (MS.): The] "Ta quay di migrated north from the Dixon Entrance shore of Prince of Wales Island through the seaward island channels and settled on the rivers and inland water- ways below Yakutat. This movement is believed to have been consequent upon their expulsion from this country by the Haida invasion from Masset about the middle of the 18th century. They seem to have married largely with the Qwash qwa Kwan and formed the second largest family at Yakutat." The other lineage at Yakutat is that of the Drum House group. According to the official version told by their present leading man, they came from Sitka, and were the group of Teqwedi that went "inside," when they separated from the others at a point near Sitka. This probably means that they came overland by way of the Chilkat Pass and Alsek River. Our CAnkuqedi informant specified, in fact, that the (Drum House?) Teqwedi followed the overland trail from Chilkat which the CAnkuqedi had pioneered, and did not come by boat. The Drum House people were living somewhere in or near the southeastern part of the Dry Bay area when a party of their hunters discovered the Ahrnklin River. This was purchased by their chief from the YEnyedi. They established 'Big Animal Town' on the Ahrnklin River and presumably had other settlements in the area. This was before the Bear House group had come to Lost and Situk Rivers. According to another informant, the Drum House Teqwedi became residents of the Yakutat area because a Raven man from Yakutat married one of their noble women; her children were the first Teqwedi children at Yakutat. It was while living on the Ahrnklin River that the Drum House Teqwedi hunter encountered the Golden Eagle which became the crest of his lineage. The Ahrnklin people were nearly exterminated (by an in- ternal feud, or by smallpox, according to different accounts), but a baby girl was saved by her uncle and from her all the present Drum House line is descended. It was presumably at this time, in the middle of the last century(?), that the Ahrnklin settlements were abandoned. The Drum House Teqwedi moved to the village on Khantaak Island, and later to Yakutat. Be- cause of the reduced numbers of Teqwedi, the death in 1937 of the last chief of the Bear House line, and the preeminence of the leading Drum House man, the two lineages are now all but merged, and their members refer to themselves as "all the same Teqwedi." [Emmons (MS.) writes: The] "Gau hit tan were of Athapascan stock and came down the Alsech to Dry Bay hi early days and later settled on the An klin where they had a considerable village. They were visited by smallpox early in the last century and those remaining deserted their houses. In after years this site was again occupied by Ta quay di with one family of then- people. Their women are said not to have worn the labret through the lower Up." TL'UKNAXADI The Tl'uknaxAdi (also heard as Tl'uknaxAdi), 'people of the coho salmon tribe,' (Boas, 1917, p. 130, fuku' 'cohoe-salmon'; Harrington, MS., 1'uukw 'cohoe'; Swanton, 1908, p. 400, L!uk!nAXAdl, 'king-salmon people') are Ravens from southeastern Alaska. Those at Yakutat say that their "first house" or principal house is Whale House at Sitka, where there is still a branch of their sib. On their way north by canoe, they stopped at Lituya Bay, but did not settle there. At Dry Bay, however, they married some of the Atha- baskan women and established a residence. One in- formant said that several Raven groups, Tl'uknaxAdi, KaMcmedi, and DAqdentan, all came north together in boats, receiving their separate names from the places where they stopped. Thus, it is said that the Tl'uk- naxAdi were named for a river near Sitka, Tl'ugunAX or TtAkunux (tl'uknAx?), the first place where they landed. Of course, this conflicts with the derivation of their name from the coho salmon, tt'uk, which they more commonly cite. The Kalt6inedi (Swanton, 1908, p. 399, QlAltcAne'dt, 'people of the creek QlA'ltcAn,' a sib at Kake) were also named for a river. The latter stay at Hoonah, Sitka, and Juneau, according to our informant, although Swanton lists them only at Kake. At any event, they do not figure in Yakutat history. According to another version, the Tl'uknaxAdi from IN THREE PARTS MYTH, LEGEND, AND MEMORY 227 southeastern Alaska became allied with the TlukwaxAdi of Dry Bay through the marriage of the Teqwedi daughter of a Tt'uknaxAdi man with a rich TlukwaxAdi. The father of the girl, Qatlsex or Qalgexw, is probably to be identified with the chief of Frog House at Gusex. In their northward spread, the Tl'uknaxAdi were probably associated with the Eagle Kagwantan, or one of its subdivisions, for it was the profitable trade with the Athabaskans of Dry Bay which seems to have prompted these two Hoonah sibs to expand northward from Cross Sound. This is what is implied by the story of QakexwtE. Swanton recorded two versions (1909, Tales 32 and 104) and we heard another from a Tl'uknaxAdi man who had been born in Sitka. Despite the considerable differences between these stories, we gather that QakexwtE was a Hoonah man of the Kagwantan sib, or of a related group, married to a Tl'uknaxAdi woman. Before he journeyed north, he killed his own sleep in the form of a bird. This he gave to his wife's people, who thereby acquired the Sleep Bird as a crest. After this, the sleepless man wandered northward, until he discovered the Dry Bay Athabas- kans. The main point of the story is how he taught them efficient coast Tlingit methods of obtaining and preparing food, and brought them south to trade with his people. Swanton's Tale 32, recorded at Wrangell, goes on to explain how the Tl'uknaxAdi who were married to Kagwantan women founded Kosle'x at the mouth of the Alsek. This is Gusex on the Akwe River, to which our Yakutat version of the story simply brings QakexwtE. At any event, this town was inhabited by the ThikwaxAdi and Tl'uknaxAdi. It was here that the Kosledi and XafkA'ayi are supposed to have split off from the latter, and also where a branch of the Koskedi roofed a house of moose(?) hide, becoming the Moose House People (Xas! hit tan, Swanton, 1908, pp. 407, 409, 413; 1909, pp. 160-161). This version, Tale 32, concludes with the war between the GanAxtedi of Chilkat and the Tl'uknaxAdi of Gusex and of Grouse Fort (KAinuwu, Swanton's KAqlnuw'u) on Icy Strait. This war was cited by my informants as one of the circumstances leading to the abandonment of Gusex (see pp. 273-274). Tale 104, told by a Box House Kagwantan man at Sitka is more concerned with the fortunes of the Kagwantan of Grouse Fort (here rendered as KAq lAnuwu). At Gusex on the Akwe, the Tl'uknaxAdi built a num- ber of named houses, and here they found a frozen frog on which they based their claim to the Frog as a crest. From this town, accompanied by their relatives the Koskedi, and also by parties of GanAxtedi from Chilkat, the Tl'ukanaxAdi used to come to Yakutat to trade, perhaps staying as long as a year. On one such occasion they quarreled with the Kwacljqwan, and took several of the latter back as captives to Gusex. One of these was the highborn woman from Knight Island who was helped to escape by the nephew of the Tl'uknaxAdi chief of Gusex. Although the Tl'uknaxAdi looked down on the Tlaxayik-Teqwedi, some of them took wives from this group, even though their relatives warned them that they would lose caste when they fathered Teqwedi children. However, it was through these asso- ciations that they learned of the Russian loot taken by the Tlaxayik-Teqwedi. The raid on the latter's Eagle Fort on Situk River was inspired, according to an in- formant, by a desire to obtain some of this Russian wealth; according to another, it was because the Situk chief had failed to deliver the slave which he owed his Tl'uknaxAdi father. In any case, the Tl'uknaxAdi who were defeated at Eagle Fort, soon got their revenge by massacring then- enemies at WuganiyE, a sealing camp in Disenchantment Bay. The Tl'uknaxAdi thus feel they have as good a claim as any to Yakutat territory. Gusex was finally abandoned when a flotilla of canoes going south to trade or to make war on the Chilkat GanAxAdi were lost in Lituya Bay. It would appear that this event occurred after the Russians had come to Alaska (probably in 1853-54), yet it is said by some that it was flotsam from the overturned canoes that brought the Whites to this part of Alaska. Some of the inhabitants of Gusex remained in the area, settling in Dry Bay where they lived as long as the cannery was in operation, while others moved north toward Yakutat. The latter built a house on Johnson Slough, another at Diyaguna'Et, and a third at Situk village. Still later (early in the present century) they had houses at the Old Village, but do not seem ever to have lived on Khantaak Island. The chief of the Tl'uknaxAdi at Dry Bay evidently held the highest prestige. The Tl'uknaxAdi in Yakutat today represent both the Dry Bay and Situk famines, and there have also been rela- tives from Sitka who have lived in Yakutat. [According to Emmons (MS.): The] "Thluke nuh ut di came from the Hoonah of Cross Sound to Dry Bay where they met the Interior people of the Alsech River and traded for copper, and moose and caribou skins. Later continuing northward they reached Yakutat. They lived more about Dry Bay in early days and later settled at Yakutat and today con- stitute the second family in numbers and the first in social importance." When Gusex was abandoned, many of the Tl'uknaxAdi moved back toward southeastern Alaska. Those who settled in Lituya Bay became the iatfkA'ayi; those who remained in Lituya Bay for only a short time and then went on to Hoonah became the DAqdentan. My in- formants also mentioned Tl'uknaxAdi at Hoonah who 228 SMITHSONIAN CONTRIBUTIONS TO ANTHROPOLOGY VOLUME 7 had apparently never come north. Thus, many years ago a Hoonah woman of that sib was captured by people from the south (Klawak ?). Although she pur- chased her freedom with the copper belonging to her son, the Awk people of Juneau claim to have ransomed her. To remove this stigma from their sib, some of the Yakutat Ti'uknaxAdi a few years ago made a large payment to the Awk group involved. Some of the Tl'uknaxAdi from Gusex went to Sitka, and there built a Frog House, which resulted in trouble with the KiksAdi, the dominent Raven sib at Sitka, who claim the Frog as their exclusive crest. This incident occurred about 1902, and involved a number of Tl'uknaxAdi from Yakutat. There is in consequence still great bitter- ness felt toward the KiksAdi. KAGWANTAN The Eagle Kagwantan (Swanton, 1908, p. 399, Ka'gwAntan, 'burned-house people') also established residence in the Dry Bay area, having apparently moved there as wives and brothers-in-law of the TlukwaxAdi (cf. Swanton, 1909, Tale 32, p. 161). In Tale 104, the Kagwantan of Grouse Fort (KAqlAnuwQ') in Icy Strait made war on the TlukwaxAdi of Dry Bay because the latter had killed a Kagwantan woman. They captured the mother of a Dry Bay chief, evidently a Drum House Teqwedi man to judge from his name (Qlayega'tqen), Xeyegatqin. She was released when she gave them her son's Wolf Post, which they took back to Grouse Fort. This episode implies that the Drum House Teqwedi already had a lineage house at or near Dry Bay. At Grouse Fort, the Kagwantan built Wolf House, apparently utilizing the crest which they had captured, and at the end of the great potlatch to dedicate the new house slaughtered many slaves whom they threw dead and dying into a nearby gulch, Slaves' Valley (Swanton, 1909, pp. 342-345). This episode was also recounted by one of my Kagwantan informants from Dry Bay (p. 470). When Wolf House later caught fire because of the recklessness of some young men, the Kagwantan acquired their present name, 'people of the burned-down house.' A fight among them was averted by the Tl'uknaxAdi chief at Grouse Fort. Later, some of the Kagwantan moved to Sitka, where they still live (Swanton, 1909, p. 346). The Box House lineage, Qukwhittan (or Kukhittan), (Swanton, 1908, p. 400, Kukhittan;Boas, 1917, p. 128, q'uku(, 'chest, box'), seems to be the Kagwantan group that was represented in the Dry Bay area. A member of that sib from Dry Bay felt that her people were most closely related to the Box House Kagwantan of Sitka. According to her, the Kagwantan separated from other Eagle sibs "after the Flood." The Yakutat people listed for me the Kagwantan at Sitka and Chilkat, but forgot to mention those at Hoonah. While living in the Dry Bay area, possibly at Gusex although no house name was mentioned, the Kagwantan from this place joined their relatives at Sitka in making war on the C^Atqwan, the "Daql'awedi" or Nanya'ayi Wolf sib of Wrangell. This trouble was caused by the faithlessness of the KiksAdi wife of a Sitka Kagwantan man, who took a C^Atqwan man as her lover. The war culminated in the massacre of the Wrangell peace hostages at Sitka in 1852. Peace between the two groups was not finally achieved until the present century. Other versions of the same affair were recorded at Angoonin 1950 (de Laguna, 1960, pp. 154-158). The Box House Kagwantan from Dry Bay are now represented by a single family at Yakutat, and ap- parently have never had a lineage house there, although there was a Box House at Dry Bay. From time to time, Kagwantan men and women from Sitka and Chilkat have married Yakutat spouses and some have lived at Yakutat. TCUKANEDI The TcukAnedi, 'grass people,' (Swanton, 1908, pp. 408, 413, TcukAne'd!) are an Eagle sib, and are "con- sidered low caste, but appear from the stories to have formed a rather ancient group." Swanton believes them to be related to the Kagwantan, although they were named for Grass Creek, (tctikAn hin) on which they were camped at the time of QakexwtE's return with the Dry Bay Athabaskans. They are cited as the proverbial example of those who neglected the golden opportunity, for they were afraid to trade with the Athabaskans and drove them away. That is why they are now poor (Swanton, 1909, Tales 32 and 104). Paradoxically, in our version of the same story, Qakexw- tE is himself said to have been a TcukAnedi man, and his people are recognized as the teachers and progenitors of the Dry Bay Tl'uknaxAdi?obviously a confused account. Most curious of all, one informant, when questioned about this sib, explained that the TcukAnedi are really the "Square Box clan or Qukwhittan." If these groups were the same or were closely related, this would explain why QakexwtE, who was evidently "Kagwantan" in a broad loose sense, could have been called TcukAnedi, even though he was not one of the group who drove away the Athabaskans. The home of the TcukAnedi seems to have been north of Cross Sound. My informants said there used to be TcukAnedi at Lituya Bay and also a few at Dry Bay. They denied that there were any at Hoonah, although Swanton reports them among that tribe. &At'KA'AYI The I^afkA'ayi or ^afkA'ayi, 'on the island people,' (Swanton, 1908, p. 413, QlAtkaayl) are said by our informants to have been a branch of the Tl'uknaxAdi IN THREE PARTS MYTH, LEGEND, AND MEMORY 229 who remained at Lituya Bay, while the rest west on to Dry Bay. Their name is derived from an island where they camped. (Could this have been Cenotaph Island in Lituya Bay?) A similar version of their origin is also given in Tale 32 (Swanton, 1909, pp. 160 f.), although Swanton (1908, p. 413) identifies the island as GAltse'ntwa, or Bear Island, in Dry Bay, while none of our informants place the X^afkA'ayi, as a sib, as far west as the mouth of the Alsek. In Tale 104 (Swanton, 1909, pp. 340 f.) the Kagwantan, returning from raiding the Dry Bay TlukwaxAdi, encountered two canoes of XattA'ayi near a stream (Xuq!) where the Kagwantan shaman destroyed the canoe and canoe men of the Xa&A'ayi shaman. The latter was named Gutcda ('Wolf-Weasel') which is also the name of a famous Dry Bay TlukwaxAdi shaman of the last century, who died about 50 years ago. No doubt he had predecessors of the same name. One of my informants said that the ^afkA'ayi owned Xas hit (Moose or Cow House). It will be remembered that Swanton considered this lineage to be a branch of the Koskedi. This would suggest that the XafkA'ayi may have lived nearer to the Alsek River than I had been given to suppose. According to Yakutat informants, the i moved from Lituya Bay to Sitka, where they now live. They are said to have decided to "become Tl'uknaxAdi" after the dispute between the latter and the KiksAdi over the Frog crest. The XafkA'ayi have never lived at Yakutat, although a few of the present residents are descended from Lituya Bay George, a man of that sib, who was buried at Situk in 1926. The DAqdentan (also heard sometimes as T'aqdentan) are a Raven sib at Hoonah. Swanton (1908, p. 399) renders their name as T!Aq!dentan, 'retaining-timber- house people,' and reports that the TAq! hit tan, 'people of slug house,' were a branch of the above. Boas (1917, p. 124) gives ?AX as 'retaining plank' for a house; my informants translated tax or ta? as 'bench' around the inside of a house, or as a 'worm or snail out of the shell,' while 'slug' was yen. (Evidently ta? carries the implication of something annular or spiral, like the snail or the encircling bench.) My informants also insisted that the TAX hittan were different from the DAqdentan. The latter were really a branch of the Tl'uknaxAdi of Gusex. When that town was abandoned, about half of the sib moved to Lituya Bay, where they split into the XatliA'ayi and the DAqdentan. The latter are those who went on to Hoonah. On this journey they received their present name because they camped at a point, DAqden. However, they still claim Lituya Bay as their territory, and "still" (i.e., until recently) hunt sea otter near Lituya Bay and Cape Fairweather. Their rights to Lituya Bay are generally acknowledged. Another informant told me that they had received their name from a point, Daqden, near Sitka, where they camped during the northward dispersal of Raven groups "after the Flood." Tale 104 (Swanton, 1909, p. 388) implies that they lived with the Kagwantan at Sand Hill Town (or at a town called XAkAnuwu')( north of Cross Sound. When this was destroyed by an advancing glacier, summoned by the incautious words of a menstruant, the Kagwantan moved to Grouse Fort in Icy Straits, and the DAqdentan settled "at a place just opposite." Since Grouse Fort was on a point (de Laguna, 1960, fig. 16), it is not clear whether the DAqdentan settlement was on the mainland shore of the cove across from the point, or whether it was on the shore of Chichagof Island, south of Icy Strait. This sib was never established at Yakutat, although there is now a DAqdentan woman, born at Kake, married to a Yakutat man. The chief concern of the Tl'uknaxAdi of Yakutat with the DAqdentan is that the latter, in talking to Swanton in 1904, should have claimed so many crests to which our informants feel they have equal, if not prior, rights. KIKSADI The KiksAdi, an important Raven sib at Sitka and Wrangell, are known to the Yakutat people chiefly as enemies. This was because a KiksAdi woman was the cause of the war fought by the Kagwantan of Sitka (and of Dry Bay) against the C&Atqwan of Wrangell, and because the KiksAdi at Sitka violently opposed the attempts of the Tl'uknaxAdi to display the Frog crest. There are no KiksAdi at Yakutat. For further information about this and about other sibs of southeastern Alaska, consult Swanton (1909, pp. 398-400, 407-414). 230 SMITHSONIAN CONTRIBUTIONS TO ANTHROPOLOGY VOLUME 7 HISTORICAL NARRATIVES Introduction Although I was fortunate to hear a great many stories and historical accounts from well qualified nar- rators, a number of whom have since died, I was not able to transcribe these in the native language, although some tales were recorded on tape. My written versions are therefore all in English, either that of the narrator or of the interpreter, and so are of limited value for a study of Tlingit narrative style. In some cases the storyteller's command of "literary" Tlingit was evi- dently as limited as his ability to express himself in English. In other cases, the narrator or interpreter spoke English effectively and vividly, although the language might be colloquial or ungrammatical. To the tales and traditions recorded at Yakutat in 1949, 1952, and 1954, I have added summaries or the full texts of those collected earlier. These include a few unpublished versions obtained by John P. Harring- ton at Yakutat in the winter and spring of 1939-40. Since his informants were also among mine, it may be of some value to compare what these persons nar- rated on different occasions, as indications of the constancy with which such traditions may be preserved. I do not know whether Harrington recorded any of these accounts in Tlingit or in Eyak; at any rate all that I have are short versions in English. In preparing these tales for publication, I have purposely edited them as little as possible. The most serious mistakes in grammar have been corrected, as have obvious confusions between singular and plural or between the sex of third person pronouns, but on the whole it has seemed better to let the stories stand as recorded. Attempts to put them into a more polished form in the hope of recapturing the impression of the "original Tlingit" might well introduce distortions of meaning as well as a false flavor. Furthermore, these English versions are, after all, what was actually told to us (most accurately transcribed in 1954, least closely written down in 1949). They are also the form in which most young people at Yakutat will hear these stories today. The English expressions used by the narrator or interpreter can help us to understand how these storytellers attempt to bridge the gap between the past, when the traditional tales had a more im- portant role in life, and modern times, when their function has not only shrunk but of necessity has undergone a change. It is through these stories, in fact, that the Yakutat people today look back upon their past, and in so doing discover themselves anew. The most coherent account of the history of Yakutat was that given in 1949 by Harry Bremner, the leading man of the Kwackqwan. This was read to him and cor- rected by him in 1952. This history deals primarily with the migration of the Kwaclsqwan from the Copper Kiver and with their acquisition of lands in Yakutat Bay. Mention is made of the movement of Galyix-Kagwantan from the west and of the Teqwedi from southeastern Alaska into the Yakutat area. It also deals with the coming of the Russians and with their expulsion. This history has become the official version, since a copy which was given to the narrator was submitted to a Federal court in 1953 as part of the evidence supporting the Kwackqwan claims to lands in Redwood Bay, Yakutat Bay, where the Westfall Logging Company had been cutting timber. The account as given below is supplemented by explanations made at the time it was corrected, and also later in 1952 and again in 1954. This history is presented in its entirety, in order to preserve the continuity of the account, although sub- headings are introduced to aid in comparisons with other versions of the same events. As will be seen, the versions given by different informants, even though of the same sib, do not correspond in all details. Harry Bremner also outlined the sib territories from Italio River to Cordova, which he was competent to do, since he had lived in Controller Bay with his father, a Garyix-Kagwantan man; he had also been adopted by Jim Kardeetoo, the leader of the Bear House Teqwedi whose lands are east of Yakutat. In addition, Harry Bremner told me about the discovery of copper and about an averted fight between the Copper River Indians at Chitina and those from McCarthy, events which took place before the migration of his ancestors from the Copper River. He also told about the war between the TTtrknaxAdi and the Tlaxayik-Teqwedi, accepting a responsibility to do so because there was no one left alive who could. He recounted incidents about Xatgawet, how smallpox came to the Yakutat area, and about the war between the Sitka Kagwantan and the C^Atqwan. Another official version was the history of the Drum House Teqwedi, obtained from Olaf Abraham, the leading man of that lineage. An account, based upon statements made by him and translated by his wife, Susie, was also submitted to him for approval. Olaf Abraham, with the late Sheldon James, Sr., acting as interpreter, also told how the Drum House people obtained the Golden Eagle as a crest. No complete history, official or otherwise, could be obtained for the Bear House line of the Teqwedi. IN THREE PARTS MYTH, LEGEND, AND MEMORY 231 The last leader of the CAnkuqedi, Frank Italio, told the story of his sib, including two of their sib myths. He also gave one version of the war between the Tl'uknaxAdi and the Tlaxayik-Teqwedi, and a brief account of how the first White men came to Lituya Bay. Since there was no man among the few Galyix-Kagwan- tan who could narrate their traditions or sing their songs, Frank Italio was requested to do so by a member of that sib. Other versions of the Kwackqwan migration from the Copper River were obtained from several other members of the sib. There are also additional brief episodes in the history of the Galyix-Kagwantan, in the career of Xatgawet, in wars between the Tlaxayik- Teqwedi and Dry Bay people, told by Galyix-Kagwan- tan, Kwackqwan, and Tl'uknaxAdi informants. The story of the drownings of the Tl'ukanxAdi from Gusex, and of the quarrel with the Sitka KiksAdi over the Frog totem were pieced together from statements made chiefly by Tl'uknaxAdi women. A Kwackqwan woman told about the averted fight with the Tsimshian sea otter hunters at Icy Bay. Some of the statements made by informants were too disjointed or too unclear to form a connected narrative. But wherever possible, these have been summarized and included in the previous sections dealing with the individual sibs. In other cases it has been necessary to reorganize a disconnected account into a straight- forward narrative. However, while episodes have been rearranged into correct chronological sequence, as far as could be determined, the stories remain as nearly as possible in the narrator's own words. The History of Yakutat [Told by Harry K. Bremner, June, 1949; corrected by him, July 11, 1952. This is supplemented by explana- tions made by him at various other times in 1952 and 1954.] THE KWACK'QWAN MIGRATION Formerly there was a glacier clear across Yakutat Bay from Point Manby to Krutoi ["Head"] Island. Glaciers also blocked the head of Russell Fiord. This was then Situk Lake, and drained into Situk River. Icy Bay was full of ice then. There was a glacial point there, but no bay at all. My people, the Kwackqwan, were Copper River people at Chitina, T6itna'. Lots of things happened before we left. The real name for our tribe [sib] then was Ginexqwan. Gmex is the name for the Big Bremner River across from Chitina. There is also a Little Bremner River below Chitina. They were named for my step-grandfather, John Bremner.69 Before we came to Yakutat we used to have war with the McCarthy Indians. They were a part of us, but we at Chitina were small; they were great big people, all giants. They didn't like us, and we didn't like them. The trouble was over hunting grounds, I think. We stayed at Chitina. The Raven chief, LtAkdax, died. He had lots of property. Everything belonged to the whole tribe. Long before he died, he killed a giant moose. He used the horn for a big dish, every time he gave a potlatch. When they divided the property among the tribe, there was trouble over that dish. The broth- ers?all the men in the tribe called themselves "broth- ers"?had trouble over that dish, but there was no killing. They lived in a long town, with rows of houses. One group didn't get the dish; the other group did. The group that didn't get the dish got sore. So they left, walking on the glacier. The people who started out from Chitina got lost. It is foggy between Icy Bay and Chitina. One part of the bunch started going one way and the others went the other way. They hollered back and forth to each other: "wuhu! wiihii! wuhu! wuhu!" That's the way they called to each other, but they kept getting further and further apart. Then one bunch came out on the mouth of the Copper River. They had no name then, until a big shot, Xatgawet, from southeastern Alaska, came up and called them the GanAxtedi. They stayed first at a place called SAxwdaq. That word means 'cockles' in the Copper River language. Some of them stayed at Eyak Lake near Cordova. Pretty soon they moved to Katalla, and then moved again to Chilkat on Bering River. Long afterwards we Kwackqwan met them again, when we traveled up in canoes to Eyak and Katalla and found our brothers again. The Copper River people came to meet us and that's where we get to meet again. (Way later on, when we met them again, they had a chief of the same name as the chief who died. The last one of that name died over 100 years ago. We met them at the mouth of the Copper River afterward, every summer. We went in canoes to Alaganik, 'AnAxAnAq, or sometimes to Eyak. The Chitina people didn't own Alaganik, but they came to meet us. They would bring down furs, and coppers, chewing gum from interior spruce, and sell it to us. [August 28, 1952.]) 69 He joined Lieutenant Allen's expedition to the Copper River in 1885, and had previously been the first White man to live among the Atna. His diary was published by Seton-Karr (1887, pp. 200-201). The informant had some doubt as to which Bremner River was called Gmex. It might have been the Little Bremner, since the name LdayEn was suggested for the Big Bremner (Septem- ber 2, 1952). 232 SMITHSONIAN CONTRIBUTIONS TO ANTHROPOLOGY VOLUME 7 Our people kept walking over the glacier. There was only ice, no bushes, nothing. They started southeast. They had nothing to eat. There was starvation on the glacier. It was a long way for us to walk. Then the people thought they saw a wolverine. They used it for a compass and walked towards it. When they came to it they saw it was a little moun- tain, an island with trees on it, just a little hill. They had a campfire but nothing to eat. That night a wolver- ine came to their fire. The hungry people killed him and ate him. They cut him up into little pieces to feed all the people. Then they walked on again. Pretty soon they saw a rabbit sitting on the snow, far away. They walked towards the rabbit. After two days walking they saw it was the top of a mountain, but they kept on walking anyway. Finally they came to Mount Saint Elias. It was a compass for the people so they wouldn't get lost. Then they found that bay, Icy Bay, Watse [yase]. The glacier was all over the bay, way out. They made a camp just west of the place where the bay is now? not houses?-just a camp of yellow cedar bark. The camp is Watse dAx [yase dA#?], 'in the bay,' and the camping place was Tfy'&ni, 'place [town] of the yellow cedar bark [try].' That was what the people used to use for the roof of houses. When they traveled, they used to pack it along, just like a tent. (There was a song composed by a woman who stayed behind in Icy Bay, when the KwacB:qwan argued as to why they had left Chitina, and half of them went back again. The mountain was so steep that they had to walk in zigzags up the snow. The woman who was left behind was so sad that she was weeping and com- posed the song. They don't know if those who left ever reached Chitina. [May 2, 1954.]) The chief said: "We will be the lost tribe." He meant that they had no husbands and wives with them. They were only the men and their "sisters," the women of their own tribe. They never married their sisters. This meant that there wouldn't be any children and the tribe would die off. Then they had something like these soldiers' bar- racks?a woman's hut and a man's hut. The chief called a meeting. They decided that all the brothers would go to their sisters' hut at night time when it is dark and sleep with their sisters. But the women were never going to ask who he is that came, just put a red mark on the man's forehead, at the center near the hair, for a mark. So they will know the next day, but they won't say anything. The Icy Bay chief was planning this. He said: "You sisters are not going to refuse any brother that comes to you, or we'll all die off." But they didn't have to do it. [Commenting, May 2, 1954, on the version told by X, another member of the sib.]: You know the chief said: "We're all going to die out. X said the chief said to his tribe, "We're going to meet our sisters," and they told the sisters to put marks on the men. But they found the other tribe [i.e., Galyix-Kagwantan, before this was necessary]. But X says it happened. And one girl really slept with her own brother. And next day she find out. She is so ashamed she went in the water and he went in the water. They turn into sea bird. [The last belongs to myth, he said, not to history.] They were just lucky and they found the Kagwantan [Galyix-Kagwantan]. The next day seal hunters brought back the report that they found blood on the ice where someone was skinning seals. They reported to the chief and the chief asked his braves who was going to look for those people. "Me, I'm going to go!" "Me, I'm going to go!" the young men said. So they went to look for those people. They found the Galyix-Kagwantan. They had come from GalyAx [Kaliakh River] before us. They found the land before us. They had the land from Strawberry Point to Gutsax", a big valley west of Icy Bay. That's why we had to come east by an inland route and why we went east, because they already had the land to the west- ward. Icy Bay is ours. The Galyix-Kagwantan had big war canoes when we met them, but we had nothing. They spoke Tlingit, we spoke Chitina language. They were called Galyix-Kagwantan, but after they moved to Yakutat they were called Tlaxayik-Teqwedi. (Later they all spoke Eyak. They crossed Yakutat Bay in canoes, after the Kwackqwan had crossed, and settled at Situk. [July 11 and August 28, 1952.]) They had trouble, too, and came from the west. They were just like us, and had only their sisters with them. They were Eagles and we were Ravens, so they could marry. Both tribes were happy. PUECHASE OF THE KwACKfQWAN LANDS They kept moving east. They came to Yakutat Bay. A young fellow walked across on the ice to the moun- tains, near Mount Tebenkoff between Yakutat Bay and Russell Fiord. He saw the beautiful beach along the ocean. So the people came down to it. They [Kwackqwan] saw some peeled celery, so they looked for the other people. They found those people. These were the Hmyedi, Ravens. There are none living here now. They are all in southeastern Alaska. Then, they were all over Yakutat Bay. They lived in the spring at Kwack, that humpy stream, and also on Knight Island. (The Hmyedi in southeastern Alaska probably know the story of how they sold their land. They owned all of Yakutat Bay and the east side from the site of Nessudat, near the airfield, back to the mountains. IN THREE PARTS MYTH, LEGEND, AND MEMORY 233 [July 11, 1952.] The Hinyedi also owned land as far east as the Ahrnklin River. They were called StaxAdi, after the eastern branch of that river, Staxa', the last bit of land they held, which they sold to the Teqwedi. [August 3, 1952].) Long ago the people didn't live in one place all the time, but moved where food was easy to get at different seasons. They used to kill the humpback salmon with spears. They used whalebone for the spearheads. They found dead whales on the beach and used to eat the whale meat, too. They were lucky to find one in the winter. It meant lots of food for everybody. Our tribe got Knight Island. Our tribe were picking strawberries there. And the Hinyedi caught the daugh- ter of the Galyix-Kagwantan chief and cut the berry basket off her back. So her father, Qex, bought Knight Island for her and her tribe. She was Kwaci:qwan; one of her names was Ketl. (Another name was probably Tlaxagusex, "Never Wears Out." [June 20, 1952.] [This may well be yAx- tlet-qu-ci-xix, 'never decays.']) The Hinyedi were pretty strict with that humpy stream. Some of our boys went to that stream to get some salmon. The Hinyedi caught them and got hold of them and broke up their spears. And the boys went to report back to their chief, because they wouldn't fight unless the chief said so. The chief said: "There's going to be no trouble. We're going to buy that place." So he offered a lot of property to the Hinyedi chief, and that chief accepted it. So that is how we got the name Kwackqwan. The property was sea otters. That was valuable. We came from the Copper River, so we had coppers, tinna. A copper as high as from the chin to the tips of the fingers on the outstretched arm was the most valuable. It was worth eight slaves. So they gave this property. The Hmyedi had to go to southeastern Alaska when they sold all their land. They went right close to Ketchikan, and there are a few in Juneau. Yakutat was pretty rich then. They hunted the sea otter right among the islands, all over. GALYIX-KAGWANTAN AND THE FIRST SHIP The Galyix-Kagwantan had trouble among them- selves, no killing. One group moved to Point Manby. The chief of the group made a lucky flower which helped them in hunting. The lucky flower was called kayani ['leaves,' synonym for plant "medicine"]. There are other kinds of kayani. We learned about it from the Haida. This flower helped them to find a ship on the beach. It was a Russian ship. They found a woman there, the first White person they ever saw. They couldn't understand her. She tried to explain?pointed to herself and held up two fingers?that two White men with her had walked up that way. So the Indians looked and found their tracks. They tracked them because they knew they were in danger. They had fallen into the glacier and were dead. So one of the men, Qatsxa, took the woman as his wife. They had a lot of things in that ship. They found iron and guns. They made a big bonfire and put the guns in it, and pounded it with stones to make spears out of it. She tried to show them how to use guns, but they didn't understand. The people became rich with all the things from the ship. They found some black powder and poured some water on it and tried to eat it. The woman tried to stop them. It was gunpowder. The people knew how to work iron because they knew all about copper from the Copper River. They used to be able to make copper hard as steel, for knives. Now, nobody knows how to do it. The woman's husband treated her fine. She was like an Indian woman. All that we eat, she ate. She did what we do. She lived so long she got old and died. THE COMING OF THE TEQWEDI The Teqwedi used to be down below Ketchikan on an island called Tan. They got different names from the places where they stayed. They were a pretty big tribe. They had trouble among themselves, woman trouble. A group went in a canoe and moved north. They landed at Edgecomb Island, Lu?, near Sitka, and settled there. Some of them came up here. They belong to Bear House, Xuts hit. So many years later, the Yakutat people got the chief's daughter for their young man. It was some Raven tribe. She was a Teqwedi woman (Teqwca) who married up here from down there. Their children were the first Teqwedi in Yakutat. She raised them. They belong to Drum House, Gau hit. [The sequence of arrival of these two lineages is not clear]: (The Bear House group claimed to be the first arrivals. The Drum House people came next; they married in. [July 11,1952.]) [With reference to fetching the high-class Teqwedi woman:] (A long time ago the Indians went way down to Ketchikan to get high-class wives. You see, it's like King George, who looks around for a wife who's his class. The Indians never want to marry lower than they are. If they are high-class they might go as far as southeastern Alaska to look for a high-class wife. I think that high-class Teqwedi wife lived in Yakutat. [July 11, 1952.] TANU? AND THE RUSSIANS Then the Russians came. They were fishing. At first they got along fine with the people in Yakutat. They used some Indians as 265-517?72?vol. VII. pt. 1- -17 234 SMITHSONIAN CONTRIBUTIONS TO ANTHROPOLOGY VOLUME 7 officers for their soldiers. One of them was Tanui [tan-'ux?, 'sea-lion tooth'?). He learned Russian. He was a pretty smart, pretty big, well-educated man. [Tanu& was Qafyix-Kagwantan, or rather, Tlaxayik- Teqwedi.] Pretty soon so many Russians came that things were getting different. The Indians were beginning to dislike the Russians. They took the children away from them, onto the ship. Tanu? said they go to school. One of the ships' captains married a Yakutat woman. Her name was Kusqan-tla [or Kusqan-tla]. She reported back to Yakutat: "Is not school?is slave!" The children had to dig in the garden in summer time to catch squirrels. The Indians could not do anything about it. The Russians took the Indian wives away from their husbands into the double fort they had for protection. Some time later, when they got tired of them, they would send them back to their husbands. The Russians had guns and cannons, so the Indians could do nothing. The Indians get smoked salmon for the winter. That's what they had to depend on for food in winter. Their smokehouses were at 'AkA on First Summit Lake [Aka Lake], and at Gutc-CAkf-'an ['Hill Top Town'] on Second Summit Lake [Summit Lake]. The Russians put a gate across T'awal Creek. Every time the Indian people want to go to their camp they have to portage their canoe, because the only time the Russians opened the gate was for the Indian chief to go through. [A fuller account of Indian grievances is given on pp. 259-260.] Tanu& was a brave man and wouldn't stand it any more. "Starvation is coming. We are all going to die. It's just as well if we die right now." He was going to make war on the Russians, he said. His people didn't believe that, because Russia is too big a nation; they have everything. The Indians had nothing. "If you don't want to help me, I'll handle it myself," he said. "When the Russian soldiers are coming back from fishing, that's the time I'm going to put the war on them." He was going to fight them in their boats. He was a friend of the Russian king [leader of the colony], who gave him respect. He was a kind of straw boss. He was given a sword for his protection. When they were going to make war there were only a few Indians with him. The others were cowards. Only a janitor, who helped the cook, was left in the fort, and a few others. All the rest were out fishing. The janitor was mean all the time, so a young fellow volunteered to kill him. He was DuxdAnekw [also heard as DuxdAnEq, Tuxwtane#, and TiixdinEq]. He was crazy. (He was not bewitched. He was crazy-brave, fool- hardy. He was KwacE:qwan. [July 11, 1952.]) Tanu? said he was going to kill Stanislaus, the Russian king. He said he would be the first Russian to be killed. "When you hear me make a noise up there, the fight is already started. I kill him." The boy went out picking salmonberries beforehand. He had them in a bucket in his hand. He hid with it in the bushes until he heard Tanu? make a noise. "I have some berries I picked for you, Snaka."?That is "partner" in Russian?The janitor thanked him. He reached for the berries. "I'm going to split some wood for you." So he got the ax and hit him on the head and killed him. So each Indian killed his own man before the fisher- men got back. When the fishermen got back, they didn't all come back at once at the same time. Boat by boat, they always used to come back. Every time the boat landed, Tanu? and his gang went to help as usual. They jump in the boat and killed them with then1 knives. That's the way they killed them all. One Russian ran away. The Indians looked for him but didn't find him. A ship came and he ran down on the beach outside Point Carew, and was waving at the ship. The ship stopped and a boat came in and took him off, and he reported that all the Russians were killed. So they went back to Kadjak [Kodiak]. Ever since then there have been no Russians at Yakutat. This is the way the Indians tell the story, the good and the bad. Every night the chief would tell stories. The people had no books, but had to be pretty smart to keep it in their heads. The Russian story was differ- ent. A Russian cook who was working here in 1943 told it, but the Russians probably fixed up the story to make them sound good. Then the Indians moved to Situk River and made a new village. At that time the glacier still blocked Russell Fiord and the head of it was Situk Lake that drained down Situk River. The village had just four houses and a fort around them. They called it Eagle Fort, T6ak nu. They expected Russian revenge; that's why they built that fort. Tanui and his Kwackqwan brother-in-law went to the bay to get sea food. They saw a Russian ship anchored there. Tanui went in the ship. He spoke Russian pretty well; he was smart. They made him a prisoner. Tanu? went on board the ship because he was a brave man, not afraid of anything. He was a good man. He wanted to explain. So he gave himself up for trial. LucwAq [translated as 'no-eyes,' and as 'one-eye'] was Tanu^'s partner. He was just a brave man. He was left at Yakutat. He was a leader in war. He was a Kagwantan [i.e., Qalyix-Kagwantan] IN THREE PARTS MYTH, LEGEND, AND MEMORY 235 They gave Tanu? a short trial on the ship. It was probably the captain who tried him. He said the first Russian killed was the Russian king. They asked him if the king had a weapon for protection, when they were fighting, man to man. He said the king always had it at his neck. He wore a knife hanging under his left arm on a string around his neck. When he first met the king, he asked him for snuff. The king had a snuff can in his pocket. The king wore it in his left breast pocket. He gave Tanu? some snuff. As soon as he put the snuff can back in his pocket, Tanui jumped on him with his knife. The first punch with the knife hit him right on the snuff can and didn't hurt the Russian. Then the king screamed. The Indians believe that it is a coward who screams. Even though he was not hurt in the flesh, he screamed. The king grabbed the knife and nearly took it away from Tanu&. They fought a long time and Tanu^ killed him. That's why the Russians didn't like it: the Russian king screamed. After the trial, the Russians said: "Tanu? is going to scream." They did everything to him on the way back to Kodiak to make him scream. They put handcuffs on him; they cut him in the flesh with knife points, not to kill him but to make him scream, and put red hot irons in his flesh, in his breast. They told him they'd let him go if he would scream like the Russian king, but he wouldn't. After they got tired, they tied him upside down to the mast. They tied him by the ankles, hanged him upside down to the mast. A storm came. He did not eat, he did not sleep. For two days and two nights he hung to the mast in the storm. They put him down after two days. He was so sleepy he sat down and slept. Then the cook, Snaka, came around with the tweezers he used to pull out his whiskers, and poked his face with them, when Tanu? was asleep. And Tanu? said "HA"!"?something like that. And the cook yell out loud: "Tanu& scream! Tanu? scream!" He ran all over the ship yelling that. And then they let him go?gave him good bed, good food, everything. The Russians were happy. They took him to Kodiak and the Russians gave him a trial. After he told his story, he was free. Instead of putting him in jail, they made him an officer, a lieu- tenant. They gave him some soldiers when he was a lieutenant. Pretty soon be began to dislike the Russians again, and so he killed all his soldiers. He went back to town and explained to the king. The king gave him another gang?no questions, nothing. The same thing happened again. Pretty soon the Russian king gave him a trial. Why does he do such things? He told that Russian king and that court that he doesn't know. "I'm not myself. After you hanged me up on that ship mast for two days and two nights, my brains are spoiled. I don't know why I killed my soldiers." Then they sent him back to Yakutat, with two Aleuts in a kayak. They were going to bring him home. The Russian king told those Aleuts to be sure to bring him back to Yakutat to be safe. Every time they stopped for the night, those Aleuts didn't sleeep. They were afraid of Tanu?. He was a bad man, he would always kill. Pretty soon they couldn't stand it. They shot him when he was sleeping, and killed him. They brought the body back to Kodiak to the king. He had a trial of the Aleuts. They told him they were afraid. The Russians killed them under the king's orders, I don't know how, but they were dead prisoners. The Russian doctor operated on Tanu? to see why he was so brave. He cut him up and looked at all his parts. The only thing he found was that he had a small heart. Then followed a war with the southeastern Alaskan people at Situk River. And then the sickness came. [These events were told as separate stories and will therefore be recounted in separate sections.] OTHER COMMENTS ON THE HISTORY OF YAKUTAT [Although some of my informants had actually read histories of Alaska, there was only one, Maggie Harry, a Kwacljqwan woman, whose comments on Yakutat history covered a timespan approaching that of the previous narrator. She discussed the history of Yakutat with Harrington in 1939 or 1940, and with us in 1949 and in 1952. These observations are given below, in chronological order.] There was a big water flood all over the world. They thought it was all over the world. There were three places in the world that were not covered by water: Devil's Thumb near Wrangell, Mount Saint Elias, and Mount Fairweather. They [the Indians] knew that the old people lived up there because they found their skin robes subsequently, high in the mountain rocks. When the migrators were coming to Yakutat across the ocean, offshore, they saw Mount Saint Elias ahead, looking like a seagull on the water [MH to Harrington, who comments "her words," 1939-40]. These Indians started as four brothers on the upper Copper River. An ivory dish with beautiful stones, the first brother wanted it, the second brother wanted it, the third brother wanted it, they all wanted it. An old woman prophet had said that whoever got the dish, had to keep it. So the three [who didn't] had to migrate. One of them came down the Copper River and settled near the mouth, another came along the ocean in a big 236 SMITHSONIAN CONTRIBUTIONS TO ANTHROPOLOGY VOLUME 7 skin boat, bringing his family with him of course as [they] all did. But her family's brother ancestor [i.e., the family of the brother who was the ancestor of the informant] came across the ice, glaciers, till they saw land, till they saw good land, which was here at Yakutat. The ones that came along the ocean got here first, the glacier migrants arrived later. There was a little argument but they settled down peaceful. The migrators over the glaciers maybe consumed a hundred years in migrating to Yakutat. When they reached here, the Indians who had come along the coast by boat were already at Yakutat. When the ocean travelers arrived here, there was no one living here . . . . . . There were 8,000 or 10,000 Indians here when the Russians came. The Russians thinned them out by taking then1 kids away. . . . There used to be 8,000 Indians here at Yakutat 1,000 years ago. These were the only Indians who defeated the Russians. The Russians elsewhere always came back. Here not. The Russians took 50 kids away from here, under the pretext of taking them away to school. For 10 years they did not come back. That was a long time. That, and shutting the gate at Ankau Inlet made the people here decide to do away with the Russians. This was the only place we succeeded. The Russians had first fought the Aleuts. Later they mixed with them, whoring their wives. . . . My grandfather [momobro] used to lead his people over to the castle. My grandfather was the Prince of Yakutat and was named Caada (a name given him by the Russians). Caada was the son of ^Atkaa- w?et. [They] called the castle nuuwuu ['fort']. It was like a big castle, just like a big castle. My father built a smokehouse there later, after the Russian prince had been killed. The Indians burned the castle and all the Russians down. The Indians took all the ammunition, but took wo food from there. The food and dishes they burned when they burned the castle. [MH to Harrington, 1939-40]. We came from Copper River, like Moses going out of Egypt. Four brothers fought over an ivory dish, called tsAnduk. Hundreds of different stones were made on it. So we split in four. Gudilta' was the king at Copper River.70 The others left the town to die. GAnexqwan [Gmexqwan] was the tribe left at Copper River. We were the family that first went on top of Mount Saint Elias. That's our flag [crest]. One tribe was lost 70 This is a well-known name at Chitina, being now Anglicized as. Goodlataw when it was foggy, so came to Kah'ak River and became the Galyix-Kagwantan. Our tribe thought they saw a seagull far off when they first saw Mount Saint Elias. Every day it is getting higher. Generations grew and died in the wilderness. They found the Teqwedi in Icy Bay. Aleuts, Gotfex, were here at Yakutat. They sure were mean! All of the four tribes finally met again at Copper River and made a village at the mouth. The Gmexqwan still remembered us. Three hundred years ago there were no trees at Yakutat?just strawberries. Our clan bought the land from the Kuskedi. . . . There were no Russian kids from here. There was only one half breed that didn't have any children. She was a beautiful girl, Prince Shawnista's [Stanislaw's] daughter. He was the Russian king that was killed. She went to Sitka. Shada [Cada, Kwackqwan of Moon House, "the first one from Copper River to build a tribal house," August 24, 1952] was the only one who could lead his people through the gate at Ankau. The Russians took 300 kids from here. Tanu? 'Itinisku was the one who killed Shawnista. The Russians lived at Salt Lake. They had a farm with cows. The only Russian saved was the lighthouse keeper at Point Carew. White people were here before the Russians came. A ship was wrecked near Summit Lake. One woman was saved. She talks different from the Russians. The two men with her drowned in Summit. Lake when the ice broke. Ten or twelve years later the Russians came. This is the true story of Yakutat. [MH, 1949.] [The historical remarks made in 1952 pertain only to the Kwac&qwan migration from the Copper River, and are therefore included in that section (pp. 239-240).] Other Versions of the Kwackqwan Migration Story [Nine informants, including four Kwackca (i.e., Kwackqwan women), two men of that sib, a Galyix- Kagwantan woman, a Tcicqedi man and a Teqwedi man furnished other more or less complete versions of the migration story of the Kwackqwan, or comments on it. These serve to corroborate the information first re- corded by Harrington in 1939 or 1940 that Eyak was the original language at Yakutat. As the late Jack Ellis had volunteered to him (MS): "The 'Yakutat lan- guage,' that is, the original language, which George Johnson is teaching me?-that is, what I am calling the Cordova language?is called yaat khwaan yuux IN THREE PARTS MYTH, LEGEND, AND MEMORY 237 wathangi, literally the 'here language.' " From the remarks given below we can also see the importance of this migration in furnishing potlatch songs still used by the Kwackqwan.] HOW THE KWACK'QWAN CAME TO TAKTJTAT [This was told by Sarah Williams, Kwackqwan, July 11, 1952. The incidents were in almost completely inverted order, but have here been arranged in what we believe to be the intended sequence.] Up the Copper River was a Raven chief, Guditlta', or QudiltA'. After he died, each one of his relations wanted to get his property, a moose horn dish, tsAnAftik six (or tsunduq six), with things on it that shine like a pearl. Oh, it's fancy! [It was a fancy platter, all over abalone shells, ac- cording to Minnie Johnson, Tl'uknaxAdi, June 20, 1952.] And some sit on this side, and some sit on that side. And this side wants that dish, and that side wants that dish, too. They got mad at each other. The other side got the dish, and that's why the Kwackqwan moved away from Copper River. There were sisters and brothers and uncles, and some moved from there. After that [sequence unclear], they came on the mountain. That's why they have Mount Saint Elias [as a crest]. They danced down from that mountain. They were happy when they were coming on this side. Lots of things happen there, and there are songs [about these events]. They stay in Icy Bay a long time, 2 or 3 years, or longer. It's just icy there, from Icy Bay to here at that time. And they lost a boy, LA'la' or LA'a, about 10 years old. He fell under the glacier. He didn't die then. He just cried under there. And that's why his mother came to sing that song. LAVS mother caught a seagull and took care of it like her own son. And when they had such a hard time at Icy Bay, the seagull got eulachons, some kind of little fish from the ocean. The seagull took them to its mother and that woman feed her brothers. The boy was still crying under the ice and couldn't get away. Another woman took care of a sea otter. And the sea otter went and put sea boots [chitons] right on its chest and take them to its mother. She was a different woman, but it was in Icy Bay, too. They stay in Icy Bay a long time. Two or three boys run from Icy Bay across the ice. And the chief said somebody lives on that side. That's why they kill seal [i.e., he could tell from the signs of sealing that there were others in the vicinity]. Just the two boys were way ahead and tell the people. And they move the second day, and the people move again. [It was not clear whether the small boy was lost on this trip.] The Goiex ["Aleuts"] stayed here before us. It used to be Got'ex first. But when we came from Copper River we bought it. The man who bought Knight Island was TcukAnk-'ic, 'Little Grass Father.' They called it GAnAWAS. That's Copper River language. In Tlingit it is called Qa-cayi-^at', 'Somebody's Head Island.' TcukAnk-'ic had a sister named GAmayAq (or Gemayeq). She picked some berries there in a basket and one of the [Gofex] ladies saw this and got mad and cut the basket of berries from the girl's back. That girl cried, and her brother asked why. She told him they had cut the basket. The girl got impatient. "I don't know why they never pay [for] this GADAWAS!" This lady got mad. "I pick berries there." The same day they bought GJUIAWAS from the Aleuts. When they bought the island they called it GAnAWAS. They had a big town on the island, just Kwaci:qwan houses. Then they bought the little river on this side of it, too. We Kwackqwan never get anything free because they [Gofex] had something there. We eat fish. The Gofex don't like the Kwackqwan to take the fish. They were strangers to the Kwackqwan at that time. That boy, DuxdAnEq, son of Wanise' [Galyix-Kag- wantan], the nephew of TcukAnk-'ic, was in the canoe. That young man, he's just a kid, and when he saw the fish at the Kwac]k stream, he got it. A [Got'ex] man saw it and got mad. He broke the boy's fish spear. The boy got mad and told his uncle that there's lots of fish there. That's why the uncle said he was going to pay the man for his nephews. So TcukAnk-'ic got the Kwack stream. He paid for it with a canoe. It had 7 cross bars, with 14 coppers tied on them, 7 on each side. Each copper was worth 10 slaves. After that, when they got enough boats-?big canoes, not small?and coppers, the Gotiex chief told the Kwackqwan that they were going to show [sell?] them one more island. That was Egg [Haenke] Island. Our nation never stole this place. We bought it. That's why we stay here. We never take it way from each other [i.e., from anyone]. Because they lived up the Copper River the Kwackqwan had tmna [coppers] then. They used copper for everything?for knives, whenever they had a war. After the Got'ex sold Knight Island [and the hump- back salmon stream], they went away. I don't know if they all went away. Some of them stayed here and married. [The same informant made a further comment, May 10, 1954, on Kwackqwan names derived from the Copper River: for women, Kac, Qelcaki, Gal, Di'axladzu, and Duqel; for men WatsdAl, WAtsuq, and L A V . The last was the name of the boy lost on the glacier.] 238 SMITHSONIAN CONTRIBUTIONS TO ANTHROPOLOGY VOLUME 7 See, that L A V , when he passed away, he fell in the glacier and he start crying there. And that people can't get him out, because [they had] no strings [ropes] that time. And they use sealskin strings, I guess, or some kind of strings. And it's too short?they can't get him. And when he passed away, his mother made up that song, because they hear him crying under the glacier. Nobody knows it [the song] this time now. And she takes the seagull?small seagull?and it's just like a kid, her son. And that's why it's hard to learn it. They sing about her kid and at the same time they sing about that seagull, her son. She's not going to have a child again, and she take it for her son. His name is L A V . Because the kid fell down under the glacier, he's still alive there. In Copper River language it's a name. The old people say it's O.K., he gonna be pass away. And that's a name in the Copper River language. L A V means 'man'?qa in Tlingit. COMMENTS ON THE SEAGULL ADOPTED AS A SON [Another Kwackca, Susie Abraham, also spoke about the seagull that was adopted. (July 24, 1952.)] The KwacB:qwan made a song for coming through the fog. And one is the song for the son of the lady that had the seagull baby. It's so sad . . . The seagull and the ocean?the people never saw them before. Her son fell in the glacier and she felt so sad. When they saw that gull it looked so pretty. Later, when starvation set it, it brought things to its mother. And then they composed a song when it finally went out forever. They sing it at a potlatch now when they feel sad. [Another Kwac]sqwan informant was reluctant to include this episode. When Harry K. Bremner was questioned about the tradition of the woman who adopted the seagull, he said [(May 2, 1954):] That's part of the story, but that's not my story. They just raised a seagull, that's all. They get it from the nest, I think. Nobody knows how many years [she kept it]. That seagull fly away from her and always came back to her again. Keep it for a pet. And when a strong winter comes?I don't know if it's starvation or hardship? her brothers blame it on her. "You raised that seagull, that's the cause of it?that strong wind that come, and starvation." So she weeping and crying, she talking to that sea- gull. The seagull understand her. What they tell the seagull, the seagull do it. And she talking to the seagull, she told the seagull: "You going to go away from me. You not going to come back to me any more. You just go away forever. And don't you ever come around to this village any more." The seagull tries to talk back to her. It don't talk, just make a noise. So it don't fly, just walk to the water. When it get to the water, it swims, going out?just swim, never fly. The seagull never come back. That's the time she composed a song, when she see the seagull going in the water. That used to be our tribe's song: ketkdi-yAdi 'i'iti ciyi?'seagull-child-(?) song-of.' (The words were in the Copper River language. It was an old song.) Some of them said that the seagull grew to be a giant seagull. No. Some of them didn't listen to the story; that's why they always get mixed up [i.e., mix myth (tlagu) with history (ckAlnik), he explained]. HOW THE K.WACKQWAN CAME TO YAKUT AT [The old KwacKqwan lady, Katy Dixon Isaac, made the following comments about the migration of her people. Her grandaughter, Violet Sensmeier, acted as interpreter. (June 30, 1952.)] Yatqwan is Eyak. This language was spoken at Yakutat long ago, but when Mrs. Isaac came here no one spoke it. Yakutat is not a Tlingit name. People from Katalla named it. There used to be a glacier here and when it started to melt away, a lagoon was formed. Yakutat is the name for the lagoon. StaxAdi is the same tribe as Kwaci:qwan. 'Iq hini [Copper River] is the place they came from. They gave them the name Kwackqwan after they came here. A Copper River group got into a fight over something that belonged to the chief, GudiltV, who died. Part of them came here by Mount Saint Elias, Ca tlen ['big mountain']. She doesn't know what they called those who stayed behind. Those who came were the StaxAdi. Mount Saint Elias belongs to the tribe that came to it. . . . There is no tribe named L'u?edi here now. They used to be here. They were Eagles. (She does not know what became of them.) Her father's tribe was [originally ?] Kagwantan. There were too many for one house, so they divided. One became the Tcicqedi. Her father was Tcicqedi. . . . [An interview with Mrs. Isaac was recorded on tape, 1954, 4-1, with her grandson, Sheldon James, Jr., interpreting (March 24, 1954). Later, comments were obtained from Harry K. Bremner, who listened to the recording (May 2, 1954). The following is taken from the tape and from additional explanations made by Mrs. Isaac] At Chitina they had a platter made out of wood, ornamented around the edge with dentalia (taxxe). Abalone (taxxe xu teyi) was put around the edge of a moose horn dish. IN THREE PARTS MYTH, LEGEND, AND MEMORY 239 (They had killed a giant moose and made a dish out of it. The moose horn dish was called tsAntulL That's the Copper River language. The one who owned the moose horn dish was a chief, an Indian doctor. They don't know his name. But LtAkdax was the name of his grandchild.) [HKB, May 2, 1954.] The platter [or both dishes ?] was the reason why they separated from their group and started to walk this way. She (KDI) doesn't know how many days they were walking, but one reason why the tribe separated was on account of the shells put around this platter. While they were walking they came out just the other side of the mountain and onto the glacier. The glacier was formed so there were steps all the way down to the water, and there was gravel on top of the ice. And every step or platform that was there, they made songs and danced on each layer or platform until they came down to the beach, to the water. While they were on the glacier, they killed a dog and put it in one of the crevasses. And that's why the glacier receded so far and left all the bay there. That's why they call it "Yakutat." . . . That's what it means? yakwdat means "lagoon" in their language up there. When they came down there after they killed their dog up there, they said. "There's already a kind of lagoon formed in there." That's in their language?? "There's a lagoon formed." 'Agun-?'lagoon'; yatqwan ?enAX duwasaq yakwdat?? '[in] local-people's language is called Yakutat.' . . . The bay starts to form when the ice starts to recede. . . . The people were asking each other down that way after they threw that dog into the crevasse in the glacier. They asked each other how it was coming along. And they answered in this language that there was already a bay forming there. "There's a lagoon forming," they said in George Johnson's language [Eyak]?-ye 'agun ygkunastin?'a lagoon is forming there.' . . . At that time this was all covered over. [A solid glacier, it was explained, covered all of Yakutat Bay and the land to Icy Bay and beyond.] After they threw that dog into the crevasse it start to recede. That's how this Yakutat Bay was formed. That Icy Bay?it wasn't much of a bay there. This [Yakutat] is the bay that start to form after they put the dog in there. [The Kwackqwan were evidently accompanied by an Eyak group.] Some other tribe [was] mixed in with the people walking this way, and came here with them. People from QAIJIX that moved over?-moved away from their tribe that went up to Djilqat [Chilkat on Bering River]. They separated from their main tribe, Galyix- Kagwantan. They gave another name for themselves after they separated from their main tribe. Part of George Johnson's tribe, that's them that come down this way?Tcicqwedi. [Two of the songs sung on the migration were recorded. A marching song, 1954, 4-1-B, has a lively tempo, like that of a dance song. The other, 1954,4-1? A, is a mourning song in the Copper River language; see p. 1155.] This song is one composed by Gudilta'. He was sup- posed to be lingit-tlen, 'big man.' And he had a rifle accident when his younger brother got shot by his old- est brother accidentally. And while he was crying he started to sing this song. He composed this song while he was crying over his brother's body. When they were walking, they always sang this kind of sorrowful songs. They were always feeling bad. They sang most of these songs on the heavy side?? yA-dAlci, 'heavy songs,' just the way they felt when they were moving away from their home tribe. [Katy Isaac was puzzled because the song referred to a muzzle-loader, 'una,?-"the kind you load your- self?-one shot. You make the lead and make the 'shell' for it." Yet the migration took place before the Rus- sians, and she didn't know how they got the gun.] [Harry K. Bremner knew the story, but denied that a gun had been used. He added this comment, May 2, 1954:] They shoot with the arrow. There's no rifle there that time. There's no White man yet. . . . But this is the way of the story: The people went out picking berries. And they were picking berries, and that younger brother of his got a brown bear robe around him. They were picking some bushberries, not strawberries. And he [Gudilta'] thought it was a bear, and he shot at it. And he got it?dead shot. It was his own brother. That's when he composed that song. It used to be a tribe song. Every time the Ginexqwan gave a potlatch, they used that song for a tribe's song. [It is in the Copper River language which H KTt does not under- stand.] [Further comments by Mrs. Isaac concern the pur- chase of Knight Island and Xatgawet, so are postponed until a later section.] FURTHER COMMENTS ON KWAC&QWAN MIGRATION SONGS [The informant, Maggie Harry, a Kwack:qwan woman, described and sang three songs, sung by her ancestors on the march from Copper River. (August 24, 1952.) The songs were finally recorded, 1954, 7-2-A, B, C (May 27, 1954). The following statement combines ex- planations made on both occasions.] We bought Knight Island, our people. We come from Copper River. And the people start to hate us there . . . The Copper River people, their language is different 240 SMITHSONIAN CONTRIBUTIONS TO ANTHROPOLOGY VOLUME 7 from the Yatqwan [Eyak]. I don't know the Copper River language, but my uncles used to know it. . . . I knew just a few words of the Yatqwan language. My grandmother used to speak it. [There were 10 genera- tions from the ancestors at Copper River. The full list, which we were unable to record, contained such names as Gudilta', Layak(?), Xatgawet, Cada, Yandulsm, and Qankida.] Old Sampson, Yandufefn was his name, didn't die until he was 105 years old. [Grave monument in the Old Village reads: Blind Sampson, October 1948, Age 110.] Cada is grandfather of all the Yakutat KwacE:qwan houses. He's the first from Copper River to build a tribal house. He built Dis hit [Moon House] in Khan- taak and then[?] in Nessudat. Xatgawet is the father of Cada. Cada is the father of Qankida. Gudilta' was the first of the line. [The ancestors of the Kwackqwan composed eight songs, which they sung on their migration across the ice, and which are still used in potlatches. They appear to have been all in the Copper River language.] A marching song [1954, 7-2-A p. 1226] was the first song they made. They had a feather in each hand as they were marching along. . . . When our tribe sings this song, the men and women are in a line and they walk back and forwards, moving both hands with feathers [eagle tails or seagull wings], left and right [August 24, 1952]. . . . This marching song they al- ways use when they're coming to the dance. When they start to come in they stop right by the door. About a hundred people stand in a row, feathers in hand. They have dancing songs after this. After we are finishing, then we use it for the parties [after the potlatch] when they dance. [May 27, 1954.] The resting song [1954, 7-2-B p. 1227] was the song they sang when they were coming from the Copper River, when they were resting on the prairie. When we sing this song, we do like this: Move our knees from side to side, but we don't move our feet. We dip twice on each side and move our hands in time (back and forth across the chest). Your knees go with your hands. It's just like the wind goes. Then they had an accident, just when they come out. The mourning song [1954, 7-2-C p. 1155] is a sad one. See, this boy shot his brother. . . . The song has long words to it. This man was telling how he was looking for his brother . . . He was looking for his brother right on the ice. He says, "My little brother,"?(gesture of hands shading the eyes, as if looking). "Where are you?"?(hand stretched out). "Please come back to me!"?(both hands on the heart, "just like he's loving him."). It's a loud song. They can hear him a mile from the camp. [August 24, 1952.] That's about half way, coming from Copper River, the boy that shot his brother. It was with an arrow, or something like that. That's the saddest song a person can sing. You know, when they saw him coming, they heard a long ways when he's coming, and he just made a motion with this hand, it's just the way he feels. Just like he was caning him. "A,"?just like he was calling him to come, his brother. "My loved one, come back to me again." He still can't believe he's coming home without his brother. "My little brother, come back to me! My brother, why did I kill my brother? Why did I do that? Please come back to me"! This is Copper River language. And when we're really in trouble, that's the time we sing this song?real deep sorrow. [May 27, 1954.] It costs lots of money when they sing it at a party. . . . All the tribe stands, men and women together. The whole tribe just moves back and forth. The men and women sing together. The men sing a bass and a tenor and the women sing high and low, too. The four different voices are singing all at the same time. [August 24,1952.] FIVE COMMENTS ON THE KWACKQWAN MIGRATION [The following was recorded by Harrington in 1939 or 1940 from George Johnson, Tcicqedi.] The natives discovered Yakutat before the Russians came here. The story goes that the Cordova-people . . . were at Cordova, they claimed the Copper River, they had a little trouble between them, that's why they sepa- rated, and they came this way across the land, and they claim they came out at Icy Bay. They had to go way back into the mountains and then came out on Icy Bay. They were the first ones who found Icy Bay. They came walking overland from Icy Bay and found Yakutat. They were the first who found Yakutat. They were yeel [Yel, 'Raven'] people to which Airs. Annie Johnson belongs, and this is the most populous [sib] here at Yakutat. And they are the ones who live here in Yakutat now. There came mixed-up people here just like a cannery crew, and the original Cordova-language [Eyak] yielded to the Yakutat language [Tlingit]. [The following explanation was given by Helen Bremner, Garyix-Kagwantan, June 20, 1952.] It was Qada'ux, the Galyix-Kagwantan father, who bought the Kwacls stream for his Kwackqwan son, CtXtl'e'u (or CAITJ') . The boy was spearing fish from a flat rock under which the salmon run. The owners didn't like it and broke his fish spear and cut his string of fish and threw them away. Then the father got mad and bought the stream for his son. The people from whom he bought it were the L'uiedi or the Hinyedi. [Francis Riddell was given the following account by IN THREE PARTS MYTH, LEGEND, AND MEMORY 241 John Bremner, Kwac&qwan, August 17, 1953.] When the people first came to this area, the glacier extended from Point Latouche across to the Manby side. The Manby side was apparently then all ice. Knight Island was bare of trees, just as it is now around Point Latouche and Disenchantment Bay, and those areas from which the glaciers have recently retreated. The flat sandy area [near the site of Old Town on Knight Island] was covered with strawberry plants. At this time there was no forest on Krutoi Island. Two canoes went from Knight Island to go salmon spearing at Humpback Creek. The people who owned Humpback Creek did not like to have other people use it for fishing. So they took the spears away from the two canoes of young men and broke them. The young men returned home and told the tribe of their treatment. The older men said that such indignities could not con- tinue, so it was decided to buy the creek. The people who lived on Knight Island originally came from up the coast. They had to cross the glaciers to get there. [These remarks were made by a Teqwedi man, Olaf Abraham, 1949.] The whole of Knight Island was just a strawberry patch. There were no trees. There was a quarrel between two chief's daughters over the rights to pick berries. One girl, DuqEtl, went to her mother's brother who bought the island for her. The village on Knight Island was the oldest one around Yakutat. [That the ancestors of the Kwackqwan may have received an unfriendly reception from the original inhabitants of the Icy Bay area is suggested by the following account. It was told by Sampson Harry, a Kwacls:qwan man who was explaining the origin of the wooden canoe designed for sealing among the ice floes (gndijt). (February 25, 1954.)] The way I hear it, we never used to know about that thing [the gudiyE]. . . . They tell us we come from Icy Bay, and the people over there, they live there all the time. They don't want us to see that gudiyE. They just got a lake over there. They call it Ligasi 'a [Taboo Lake], because they hide that gudiyE in there. They don't want us to see how they use it. And pretty soon they [our ancestors] found out. We see the blood just in the ice. They were hunting seals. It's pretty hard to go around in the ice. But they got that gudiyE with a thing in front. [He went on to describe the canoe, see p. 339-340]. . . . I don't know the name of that tribe at Icy Bay. They made war with us when we came from Copper Kiver. I asked Old Sampson [1866-1948] and Jimmy Jackson [1861-1948], my uncles, but they don't know. They sneak up in war in the nighttime. [Unfortunately no other person could offer any 2*5-517?72?vol. VII, pt. 1 18 information about the seal hunters at Icy Bay, unless they were the Qaryix-Kagwantan.] "STORY OF THE KA'CK!QOAN" EECOEDED BY SWANTON Swanton's long version of the story of the Kwacls:qwan migration (1909, Tale 105) was recorded in Tlingit. It was dictated by a member of that sib, Q IS'dustin, who was living in Sitka in 1904. He was probably the man known to our informants as Sitka Jake, Q'atAsfin, or Qatustin, who had married the daughter of Sitka Jack, K'atsex. Thelatter's brother was Q'exix, the Tl'uknaxAdi chief of Whale House in Sitka. (Cf. Swanton, 1908, p. 406, Qlexi'x, of Ya'f hit.) Certain points in this version should be mentioned because they either conflict with or supplement the accounts given by our informants. The Copper River chief who died was LtAxdA'x, and although the dispute between his heirs was over his dish, TslAnAt'u'k!, he also had a copper (Swanton, 1909, p. 347). The latter was fetched from the valley called Ltaxen after the people had been living at Icy Bay (?) for over 10 years and had discovered Yakutat (ibid., pp. 354 f.). It was with this copper, worth 10 slaves, that they purchased land at Yakutat (ibid., p. 356). About 40 persons formed the group that emigrated from Copper River (ibid., p. 347), and it took them 40 days and nights to reach Icy Bay (ibid., p. 345). This place, however, is described only as the mouth of a great river. The specification of 40 days may reflect the influence of Bible stories (see the version by MH on p. 236, especially since Sitka Jake was a religious Chris- tian in some ways, according to a story about him told by a woman whom he treated as "granddaughter' (MJ). However, as my colleague Catharine McClellan points out, since 40 is a ritual number among the Atna, it may be a purely aboriginal feature in this story. Mention is made of the ceremonial garments donned on the journey when the people thought they would die, and also of songs sung or composed (ibid., pp. 347, 349, 352 f.). The fog, in which part of the group was lost, was caused because some people had clubbed ground- squirrels (ibid., p. 348). It is taboo to kill certain species with a club, according to informants. The fate of the lost party is not mentioned, however, nor is there any indication of a later reunion at the mouth of the Copper River. The crossing of the mountains on a glacier is described; the mountain is taken as a crest, and Mountain House (named for the mountain) is built when they reach the sea, but the mountain is not specifically identified as Mount Saint Elias (ibid., pp. 349 f.). Here the Cs'dAdux (plural) remained for 10 years, evidently intermarrying, since the settlement grew into a town (ibid., p. 350). There is no allusion at all 242 SMITHSONIAN CONTRIBUTIONS TO ANTHROPOLOGY VOLUME 7 to the problem of sib incest in this version. Ca'dAdux is not a name which any of our informants used. It suggests the name of the chief Cada, said to be a Russian word or name (Shada), and also the name of the Kwacl;qwan chief, Dux, associated with Knight Island. It was also at the coast that a woman, KIwade'ltA, reared a seagull that grew almost as large as a house. She finally followed it out to sea (ibid., p. 350), but there is no suggestion that it was a substitute for a lost son, or that the seagull or a sea otter fed their adopted mothers. The only mention of a boy lost on the ice occurs much later, after the Kwaclqwan are living at Yakutat (ibid., pp. 361, 363). At Icy Bay(?) a man built a skin boat and sent his six nephews to look for other people, whom they found at Yakutat (ibid., pp. 350 f.). After their return, a party of Kagwantan from Copper River also came in a skin canoe and were fed by the Mountain House people (ibid., p. 353), although there is no statement that they married. The use of skin canoes conflicts with our versions that the Copper River emigrants were without boats and crossed Yakutat Bay on the ice, and also that the Galyix-Kagwantan had wooden dugouts. It also seems to conflict with the tradition that the people who lived at Icy Bay (Galyix-Kagwan- tan ?) and who were there when the emigrants arrived from the Copper River were using the special wooden canoe (gudiyls) for sealing among the ice floes. The report of skin boats is in accord, however, with the positive statement that the Yakutat natives, before they had wooden canoes, made large skin canoes and also one- and two-man kayaks. The original inhabitants of the town at Yakutat, YakMa't, were the Athabaskan Koskle'di and L!uq!- oe'dl. The former wished to drive away the Copper River immigrants. When one of them, Duqdane'k", was discovered spearing humpback salmon at the Kack! stream, they cut his string of fish and broke his spear (ibid., p. 355). The newcomers bought the place with their copper, and lived there for twenty years. Meanwhile, the Koskle'dl and L!uq!oe'dl left for good (ibid., p. 356). There is no mention of the purchase of Knight Island. The story concludes with incidents which are extran- eous to the foregoing, and which are not mentioned by informants. One of the six brothers became lazy and was aban- doned on a hunting trip by his brothers. The spirit of the mountain helped him to become a great hunter and sent him home in a canoe which was really a brown bear. Meanwhile the Teqwedi had arrived at Yakutat from Prince of Wales Island (ibid., pp. 356-360). On another hunting trip, one of the brothers was lost crossing a glacier, but the others were saved by the one whom the mountain spirit had blessed (ibid., pp. 360-363). In this episode mention is made of a large hollow cotton- wood tree beside a glacier at the head of the Kack! stream. If a noise were heard inside it, this indicated a storm, and people would not attempt to cross the glacier. Informants also mentioned this tree, but associated it with crossing Yakutat Bay on the ice (see below). There is now certainly no glacier near the Kwaclk stream. The last part of the story deals apparently with the Teqwedi. 'Heavy-wings,' KitcitdA'lq!, a brother-in-law of the Ka'cklqoan, is the principal character. (KitcidA-tx is a name belonging to the Drum House Teqwedi.) He had to give his daughter in marriage to the North Wind in order to secure a calm passage to Awk (Juneau). He met L!e"nAxxi'dAq, the wealth-giving female Being, but because he said the wrong words, was killed by his own copper. His sister's son, XAtgawe't, took his ashes back to Yakutat, met the same Being, but became even wealthier than his uncle (ibid., pp. 362-368). There is no further account of the activities of this enterprising character. The story of the encounters of Heavy Wings and of Xatgawet with Property-Woman was told to us as a completely separate narrative. Further Tales About Knight Island and Xatgawet Xatgawe't, whom we have already met in Sitka Jake's story of the Kwaclsqwan (Swanton, 1909, Tale 109), was a Teqwedi man of southeast Alaskan derivation, but born at Gusex on the Akwe River, of a Tl'uknaxAdi father. He is usually associated with the early history of Yakutat, with fighting the Aleuts, and also with naming and "organizing" the Eyak-speakmg sibs. He was a powerful shaman, as well as a wealthy trader. While all informants agree on his many marital ven- tures, which have made him a somewhat comical figure, there is real disagreement as to when he lived. Accord- ing to many, he was responsible for the purchase of Knight Island and for the founding of the village there; according to our most knowledgeable historian, he lived much later, on Lost River, and had nothing to do with the early Kwackqwan settlement. Jenny Kardeetoo (1872-1951), in telling the story of Dux's sister (see pp. 245-246), indicated that Xatgawet was living on Knight Island just after the Russians left. (There may have been several men with the same name.) Xatgawet had three names. His "real" name was WuckAkeyAdagwetc (or WuckAqeyAdagwetc), refer- ring to contending Killerwhales that 'crowd up on top of each other.' Another of his names was Hfnisel', again referring to the Killerwhale that 'tears the water.' IN THREE PARTS MYTH, LEGEND, AND MEMORY 243 (Should this last be Hin yA-sel'? cf. Boas 1917, p. 193.) His third name, by which he is commonly known, is a nickname. His daughter-in-law let out gas, and he said right out in the community house "Xat gawe?? 'maybe it's me?' "?-just to keep her from embarass- ment. The suffix, -t (cf. Boas, 1917, p. 94), was added to the remark or question to make it a name. The joke and the coining of the nickname, explained an in- formant, was characteristic of the public joking relation- ship between a man and his daughter-in-law. All three names were among those borne by the recently deceased head of the Teqwedi Bear House lineage, Jim Kardeetoo (1862-1937), the same line to which the original Xatgawet is supposed to have belonged. If we summarize all the information given about him, we find that his father was a Tl'uknaxAdi man named Lkettitc, and his mother a Teqwedi girl named Kayistan, daughter of a Tl'uknaxAdi chief at Gusex, named Qatcguk or Katfxuq. The latter was said to have been the uncle of Lkettitc (which may be only another way of saying that they both belonged to the same sib). Sitka Jake reported that Xatgawet was the nephew of Heavy Wings, KitcidAli, but two of our informants reversed this relationship. KitcidAlx was the nephew, they said, who built Drum House at Ahmklin and married a KwacRqwan woman. At any event, Xatgawet seems to have married many women. The following names, all Kwacl:qwan, were given by our several informants as those of his wives: 'Andul, Siat, Kaltsenku or Katlatsen&u, Duhan, Wanga-tla, Katlafeq, and Tie'an (the last the daughter of a Galyix-Kagwantan chief). It is interesting that the last Xatgawet, Jim Kardeetoo, should have married a woman whose name was also Tle'an. Two sons of Xatgawet were listed: Gunaxoci and CtAtl'eu. The latter is the name of a chief of the Kwackqwan Raven's Bones House. There seems, however, to have been no direct connection between Xatgawet and Cada of Moon House, although the latter was father of Jim Kardeetoo. A number of accounts have been pieced together to learn something of the original Xatgawet, if indeed, it is safe to assume that the same name refers always to the same individual. It is possible that there was a noted Teqwedi leader in pre-Russian times some of whose exploits are ascribed to the matrimonially suc- cessful trader and shaman of later days. We shall, however, begin our "biography" with the story of his father, Lkettitc. The latter may be cited as an example of the virtuous Tlingit youth who in folklore is rewarded with good fortune. THE STORY OF LKETTITC [The following brief version was told by Emma Ellis, a woman from Dry Bay. (July 22, 1952.)] tkettitc, when a young man, used to go without eating. In winter he just put a belt around him and went without clothes. He just wore shoes in winter time. He chopped wood all the time, so the fire never died down. He was always chopping wood for his uncles and grandfathers. Finally he became lucky and a great man. He got what he wanted, the rich Teqwedi daughter of a great man. He married over here from Gusex and lived at Knight Island, or maybe on Khan- taak Island. [The last sentence surely refers to his son, Xatgawet.] [The following version was told by Jack Reed, Tl'uknaxAdi, 1880-1953. The account has been edited. (July 24, 1952.)] At Akwe there used to be lots of people, Tl'uknaxAdi. One time there was a young Tl'uknaxAdi man, Lkettitc, who stayed alone. He was a good boy, young, husky too, and kind, like all Tl'uknaxAdi. His uncle, Katsxuq, had a Teqwedi daughter, Kayistan. He also had two slaves, a man and wife, and they had a baby. There were lots of people at Yakutat also at that time, and the people from Yakutat and Akwe used to visit each other for 2 or 3 months at a time. Winter was coming and lots of people were going to Yakutat. The uncle of Lkettitc had a big canoe, but he didn't want the boy to go, because he was too crazy [fool- hardy]. That's why he stayed behind. So the young man made a big pile of firewood for the wintertime. He chopped it, split it, and piled it. Some- times he used snares for fox, and sometimes wooden traps. The slave's husband died. The baby was all right, but after the winter came, the baby cried. The young man got up. It was cold; the north wind was blowing, and he got some water for the baby. He helped him. "I'll teach you how to get the luck," the slave baby's mother said. She knew that from her husband. So she gave the lucky (formula?, amulet?), just like a present to the young man. After that he caught lots of fox. That's the way she helped him. So the young man gave lots of skins to her father to get married to Kayistan. [There is also some sugges- tion that he anticipated his uncle's permission by having relations with his daughter while the uncle was asleep.] The slave woman is still alive (now? at the time of the marriage?). Now this woman was a good slave. She was never sent away, but Kayistan didn't want to call the woman and her baby "slaves" after that. They are like Tl'uknaxAdi now. [July 24, 1952.] . . . Kayistan was the mother of Xatgawet. He was a shaman who could communicate with Sitka. [JR; July 27, 1952.] 244 SMITHSONIAN CONTRIBUTIONS TO ANTHROPOLOGY VOLUME 7 [The following story was first told by John Ellis in English, with Tlingit phrases dictated and translated. Then it was recorded in Tlingit, March 25, 1954, Reel 1954, 2-1-B.] Did you ever hear a story about Lkettitc? I know some of it. That's the man who was told to get off the boat in Italio River. That was his uncle who told him to get off. He was fooling around with the boat there. His uncle told him: "What's that man doing? Chase him off! Tell him to get off!" He walked on the gunwale and just tipped it so far that the water got in there. He just run along the gunwale and jumped ashore. He started walking towards tusex [This may be the southeast Alaskan pronunciation of Gusex] at Akwe. When he started walking, bis uncle said: '"u! wetE yakagu! kaqa XAk duwudum Qatcguk-si qeca." '[Go on!] Go ahead?keep going! One who is heavier than the rest of them [i.e., is high class], Qatcguk's daughter you will marry.' '"u!"?when you say that to a person you don't think he'll do it. She's a high-class woman, and in Tlingit they speak [of this] as a weight. She's got more weight than other people. 'She's heavier than the rest of them'? kaqa XAk duwuduni. 'That woman you will marry'? qlca. That's what they said. When he gets there?E^usex?that's their village over there, he goes to a house, and he tells them: "cawAt xan kAn-gAlanikt 'aya [woman to-me tell-a- story now!]?I want you to tell me a story about a woman." He didn't really mean that. What he meant was, he wants somebody to teach him real life. And they always start telling him a story about a woman. And he gets up and walks out. And he goes to the next house and says the same thing, and the same thing happens. He gets up and walks out. Finally at the last house there was a slave who got free. He was living there. He told him the same thing: "cawAt xan kAn-gAlanikt 'aya" And that man [the slave] he got right up and said: "Hu! hu! hu!" Start running around in the house, just wildlike, and even took a knife. [The man] just sat there and watch him. And pretty soon he sat down and told him: "a-! tat Ikel djayi tu?w ?wAn tsa nita, det6A 'A 'At da wutl 'awE." ?"Ah. Never sleep when it's stormy at night, just keep busy." If you want to get rich you can't sleep on a windy night. It's the main thing in life in order to succeed, is what he meant. detcA ' just.' 'At da wutl 'really busy,' or 'war.' He means somebody to teach him a real life. And that slave got up and try to scare him, and he just sit there. Finally the slave told him: [phrase repeated]. It's just the way they talk. So he stayed with him. He made that slave his uncle?du kak 'awuliyix. And he goes after wood for him, and he does everything, works for him?'ada yukAwugutk. And he stayed there a long time. One day, first, when he comes to the tree with an ax, he hits it, and the snow all fall on him from the branches. And he says: "yEnatf! duwtrwet 'ax kAde 'A kAnadzu!"?"Let riches fall on me!" yEnati?"that's the way it's gonna be" [Let it be!]. He speaks as if the tree were throwing snow on him. "Riches it's throwing on me." 'Riches'?duwuwet, 'axkAde 'on me;' 'AkAnadzu 'it is throwing.' So one night the north wind was really blowing? 'ayAt 'a cawAtAn kusex?they call it. Just like you lay a boat on the water. That's what it look like to them. Snow was piled up there. And that's the time the slave cried out for water. And he got up, he start digging his way through the doorway, through the snow. And he run down and he got some water and he gave it to him. After he drink it, he [the slave] told him: " 'an yanAX CAyu da 'us. WUXE' 'aya 'i'i kwAla'u!" ['Village through washing-hair. Amulet I'll let you have.'] That's 'washing hair along the village.' That's the way he said it. Olden time, they do that for luck. They wash their hair before Yel du 'axt [Raven calls]. Even before that?people get up before Raven makes that noise. They wash their hair before anybody gets up. He tells him to wash his hair at one end of the village and then go to the other end of the village and do it again. On the beach in the river there?wash hair, and at the same time make a wish for luck. [The slave gave him an amulet.] So he does that all the time. And pretty soon he start getting luck, and buys some slaves and got a lot of valuable things, and went up and he got married with this woman. He was Tl'uknaxAdi. When that happened they were going down south. The next time when they were coming back, they were laughing about it, and they [i.e., his former companions] said: "K:e qaxtASAtin we tmna-yAtxitc 'At gux-SA-'u."? "Let's see that man who's going to buy things with baby coppers." When they came there, they find out he was married, and from then on I don't know. I forget what happened. [A further comment was made on this story, by Emma Ellis, March 27, 1954.] Lkettitc was Tl'uknaxAdi. The woman he married was Teqwca or something. Qatcxukw du sik [Q's little daughter]. IN THREE PARTS MYTH, LEGEND, AND MEMORY 245 [The informant agreed to the suggestion that the father might have been Koskeqi or QusRedi. He was notThikwaxAdi nor Tl'uknaxAdi.] Qusledi don't live at Kusex, but up at Knight Island. That's the place they stayed. They belong over there. They were the last people to live there [Knight Island]. Xatgawet stay over there?that's ikettitc's son . . . They say Lkettitc gets married. He got some kind of dope, you know, from that slave?danakw they call it. That's why he get rich out of that. I forgot that slave's name. . . . ADVENTUBES OF XATGAWET [The following brief statements were contributed by a number of informants.] The Kwaclsqwan first lived on Knight Island, then the Teqwedi. They lived at mkw- 'an, Old Town. Dux's sister was picking berries there, and they [the owners] cut the basket off her back, so Dux bought the island. He was KwacH:qwan and lived on the island. Xatgawet was the head of the Teqwedi tribe. He was Dux's brother-in-law and married both his sisters. Dux turned everything over to him. . . . [Minnie Johnson and Charley White; June 9, 1952.] Xatgawet was a Tongass Teqwedi. His tribe came from Tongass but he was born at Akwe. His father was Lkettitc. IXatgawet built the town on Knight Island. He gave tribal names to the Yakutat people in imitation of those of southeastern Alaska. He copied the names from the tribes at Klukwan near Haines [Chilkat]. The Yatqwan weren't organized like the people of south- eastern Alaska; neither were the interior Indians, the Gunana. Xatgawet married in here and organized the people and gave them names. He was married to two women. He called the brothers of one wife the GanAxtedi; the brothers of the other wife were the Kwaclkqwan. He liked the name TlAkw-'an so much he gave it to the village on Knight Island. (When asked about Dux, the informant said that he had not heard of him?my pronunciation may well have been at fault?-but that different people have different stories about the town.) [Jack Ellis, 1949.] Xatgawet used to be a big man. He had many slaves. He put up a great deal of food for the winter; dried fish and berries. He had food all the time, but when the other people were starving they would come to him and say: "I'm going to be your slave. Give me your dried fish. I'm starving, give me something to eat." And they ask him to give them something to eat, and then they are his slaves?'At xeci yAguxwgu, 'to become a dried-fish slave,' they call it. Sometimes they get free when their family gets money and they pay it back. Sometimes when they have a potlatch, they are killed. Too bad, too bad! [Emma Ellis; August 5, 1952, somewhat edited.] Xatgawet belonged to Lost Kiver Xuts hit [Bear House]. He lived all over, the crazy fellow. He was a big man, tried to have his own way with everybody and tried to be a big shot. He had a war canoe. He was not so rich until he married Qalyix-Kagwantan's daughter. They [the Galyix-Kagwantan] were rich, very rich still to this day. [Susie Abraham; July 24, 1952.] Xatgawet was a Teqwedi chief with slaves. He married Katlatse'nku and her younger sister, Duhan, both Kwackqwan women, and 'Andiil [same sib]. He had five wives in all. He was the first to live on Knight Island. He owned most of the islands. His grand- children, his relatives, lived on the other islands. 'Andiil was so old that when she went outside of the house in winter she had a heart attack. They found a frog beside her in the snow. So they got this name, Xixtc -si [Frog's Daughter], for someone else in the tribe. Mary Thomas [Kwacls:qwan] has that name now. Xatgawet bought that humpy stream for his children. [The informant had never heard of Dux, see below. She did not know the name of Xatgawet's house.] [Katy D. Isaac; June 30, 1952.] Xatgawet was a big man from here, and he was married into the people [here]. . . . He's the one that was buying up these islands here, like Knight Island, and these other islands, for his wife and kids. On account of most of the food was from those places, like Humpback Creek, he bought those for his wife and kids. He married three women from that tribe [Kwack- qwan], and bought Humpback Creek for them. His wives were named: 'Andul, Katlafieq (or Kala- ts6nkw), and Si'at. He was Teqwedi?-one of the big shot men that owned slaves in those days. [Katy D. Isaac; March 24, 1954; in part recorded on tape 1954, 4-1, with additional comments.] THE STORY OF DUX'S SISTER This is one of the historical accounts, the chronology of which is uncertain, but which relates to the long series of conflicts between the Dry Bay Ravens and the Yakutat Indians, and which culminated in the destruc- tion of the Tlaxayik-Teqwedi by the Tl'uknaxAdi, after the Russians had been driven from Yakutat. It seems appropriate to include this episode here, since Xatgawet was supposed to have been the brother-in-law of Dux. There were also other wars in the pre-Russian period we were given to understand, but our friends would not or could not give the details. [The following version was told by Jenny Kardeetoo in 1949, interpreted by Minnie Johnson. The account has been slightly edited for the sake of clarity.] 246 SMITHSONIAN CONTRIBUTIONS TO ANTHROPOLOGY VOLUME 7 The Kwacl:qwan bought Knight Island from the Kuskedi [KosKedi], who sold all their ground and went to southeastern Alaska. Dux bought the island from them. All his tribe contributed to buy the island. It was about a quarrel over berry picking. They got mad at Dux's sister because she got ahead of them in picking strawberries. They cut her basket with a knife. [This the interpreter did not believe, "because they got no knife in those days."] Dux built the first tribal house there, Nu hit, 'Fort House.' A man married to his sister built Xuts hit, 'Bear House.' This was right after the Russians left. It was only a camping place on the way to sealing camp before that. Now there are only big trees and elderberries where Nu hit used to stand at TlAkw-'an.... Xatgawet was the first man at Knight Island. He was Teqwedi. He had two wives. One was a Kwac&qwan girl. A younger sister had to marry the husband of her older sister. He slept between them?big jealous! They get into a war. Nobody could land at Knight Island. The enemy captured his sister-in law, WuwacH: of Dis hit [Moon House]. She was taken to Dry Bay. She was already married and had a boy when she was captured. At Dry Bay she had an intimate friend, Da-tlen, 'Big Weasel,' a Tl'uknaxAdi man. Other clans at Dry Bay were Cinkuqedi and Teqwedi. They were holding her for ransom. He didn't want her to be a slave. So he took her in his canoe to the shore of Dry Bay, and she walked ah1 the way to Chicago Harbor [Eleanor Cove], opposite Knight Island. She made a fire with a drill and made a signal for her brother-in-law to come and get her. Her hair was matted with moss and devil- clubs. They got slaves to clean her hah1, and then freed the slaves, they were so glad to get her back. [When reminded of the story which she had inter- preted in 1949, Minnie Johnson gave a version which she considered more accurate. July 13, 1952.] It was Dux's sister who was the girl who went back near Chicago Harbor. She got acquainted with the Tl'uknaxAdi down there. They done something. The Tl'uknaxAdi captured Dux's sister for some reason. They kept two or three of them. It must be their tribe do something to the Tl'uknaxAdi, otherwise they would never have captured her. They just want to keep her till they make peace [until her people paid for her, is implied]. They took that woman down to Gusex. And there was a young fellow there. He was her boy friend. They got acquainted. He was the nephew of the head guy of Gusex. He felt sorry for her and he went as far as he can with her and the little boy in a canoe. He crossed the rivers. Aly grandmother told me about it. They got in a canoe as far as the head of Situk. And then she walked across through the woods. That man was with her all the way. And he start to make fire for her with a drill. It's got a round handle. And that flint, too, they used to hit it together and make sparks. And they have dry stuff they keep it in all the time?dry grass. They use pitch off the trees for kindling, like creosote piling. They make a shaving of it. They use the dry grass and then the pitch. Then the boy didn't want to be held up and found out. The people believe that she escape [all by herself]. He went right back. I don't know how he make out with his uncle. But that fellow is out all the time, and he brings back grub from hunting. Xatgawet sent slaves over to see who is making the fire. It was Xatga wet's wife's sister. I don't know her name. They were so happy when they got Dux's sister back. And her hair was all matted up with everything. And he ordered slaves to comb her hair and wash her and clean her up. And they let the slave go free. It's a true story. [Xatgawet also appears in stories of wars with the "Aleuts," see pp. 254, 257]. XATGAWET AS POST-RUSSIAN [The following comments were made by Harry K. Bremner who placed Xatgawet in post-Eussian times.] Xatgawet was a Teqwedi from southeastern Alaska, a rich man, and pretty high 'anyAdi [aristocrat]. He went all over marrying and had lots of wives. (Too many to remember.) He married [Galyrx-Kagwantan's] daugh- ter, Tl&'ka. Her brother is supposed to give his sister's husband a shirt when they marry. In that way he got a big pile of sea otter skins, higher than that girl. He got rich that way. He went to Cordova and married there. He said: "It looks to me like my brothers-in-law were like GanAxtedi," so he gave them this name. Before that they had no name. He also named the KosRedi (Qusledi) at Cordova. He gave those names to Tcilqat [Chilkat on Bering River], Katliakh, Yakutat. When he married all over he gave these names to his new brothers-in-law. [He named both sibs and towns.] Diyaguna'Et was his capital. But he used to stay at a little place in a house by himself, on the south bank of Lost River, between Diayaguna'Et and Nes&udat. It was in a clearing shaped like a strawberry leaf, the stem towards the water. It was called "Strawberry Leaves" in Eyak. He stayed there, I don't know why. The first Raven's Bones House of the Kwac&qwan was probably somewhere on Knight Island, nobody knows where. [July 11, 1952.] [The following comments were made after hearing the recording by Katy D. Isaac] IN THREE PARTS MYTH, LEGEND, AND MEMORY 247 Xatgawet doesn't belong in the old story. That's not the old story. [The story about him] it's not real old story. [In his day] all that tribe [Teqwedi] is already settled out at Lost River . . . at Diyaguna'Et. It's already a village that time that important man came up from southeast of Alaska?Xatgawet?-not long ago. The way they talk about buying islands at Yakutat, it's hundreds of years before. She [KDI] is right they find the ice clear across from Icy Bay. . . . The one who bought the land had two names; T'uxkw [Dux??] and the other name is Q6yq. He was Galyix-Kagwantan. The tune he bought Knight Island, it's no trees, nothing on that island, just strawberries. They picked the strawberries. It's his daughter. When they were picking straw- berries?-her name is GrAmayAq. She had two names. Her other name is Qetl. She was picking berries. That time they using baskets to pick berries. And she's got it packing berries on her back?-packing. And the owners of the island, Hmyedi, found her there. Those Hmyedi cut up that basket that she is picking berries in. And she reported to her father what the trouble is that she had. That's the time her father bought it for her, that means for the whole tribe. That tribe's name is Kwacls:qwan, what they call it now. [Before that the sib was named for their original home on Bremner River, Gmex, "right across from Chitina."] That's our tribe's name?Ginexqwan. Until they buy that Hump- back Stream, then they have another name again? Kwackqwan?That means "Humpback." I think you got the whole story of that when I tell you that. [When asked specifically about Xatgawet]: That Xatgawet?big Indian doctor?the strongest, the biggest?-and he's rich. I just wanted to tell you it's a mistake that Xatgawet buy all the islands here. Everything is already settled down. It's many years after when they first discovered this piece of land from Copper River?Kagwantan [did]. I don't know where they came from, that Kag- wantan. They came in a canoe and we [Kwackqwan] walked on the land. You got it in your story, that one. They landed here before the Kwackqwan. She [KDI] was right about the glacier was clear across some place up here?Chicago Harbor [Eleanor Cove]?across from there [Point Manby side]. [He commented that he had forgotten the names, but believes the history he learned from his father, and which the latter had learned from his uncle, Teqwedi.] The own tribe knows about themselves. Xatgawet was Xuts hit. He came from southeast Alaska?went clear to Copper River. He married at Bremner River. He married there and at GalyAx ["Katlya"]. He married a Galyix-Kagwantan's daughter. He had so many wives; that's why he became a rich man. . . . Xatgawet?he's not old. He's not so very far from my grandfather, I think. This Xatgawet?he had so many wives. I know one of his wives is Wanga-tla [WAnga-tla], another is Tfe'an. . . . He lived here after the Russians. [The informant had never heard of him on Knight Island.] His place was over at Lost River?just a camp?they call it Xatgawet-'ani, that means 'Xatgawet's place.' Right below Nessudat and the Teqwedi village, Diaguna'Et. That little place, they call it CukwAKal? that's Eyak. . . . They used to talk that language before. That means . . . "straw- berry leaves" . . . three pieces. That's the way I think it looks. [He traced a three-lobed leaf with his finger. [May 2, 1954.] [As a shaman, Xatgawet had many spirits, including the Sun's Children, GAgan-yAtxi, and others that came later to the Teqwedi shaman, TEli-'ic. When he first became a strong doctor, at Diyaguna'Et, he was "visited" by the spirit of a Tsimshian doctor. Later, Xatgawet and his wife, Tle '^an, "visited" the Tsimshian shaman, that is, their spirits went while their lifeless bodies remained behind. It was on this occasion that Xatgawet obtained a Tsimshian spirit and its songs, as well as the right to the Killerwhale Hat, Kit saxw, an emblem of the Yakutat Teqwedi. These stories will be found under Shamanism, pp. 710-712.] THE SITE ON KNIGHT ISLAND The discovery of a grave on Knight Island in June, 1949, and our excavations there (de Laguna et al., 1964), aroused great interest, and stimulated a number of the brief stories mentioned above. In addition we were told: The Kwackqwan bought Knight Island. TlAkw-'an was a big city long before the Russians. Just east of this there was an old village called Yel 'ada qutiyE (or Yel'AdAx ? gAfiyi, or qAtciye), "Raven Falls Down." There were so many big houses there in a row, and when it's calm weather, the smoke goes straight up. So the raven that tries to fly over never gets to the end. It falls down. [Olaf and Susie Abraham; July 24, 1952.] "Raven Falls Down" was the real name for the village we were excavating. Xatgawet called it TiAkw-'an to pretend it was a high-class people's place. [Sheldon James, Sr.; August 3, 1952.] No one knew when the people moved from Knight Island, or why, but the consensus of opinion was that this was before the Russians came to Yakutat. The grave, on the other hand, was generally asso- ciated with a shaman contemporary with the Russians. Thus, Olaf Abraham, ascribed the burial to a Tlaxayik- Teqwedi shaman, the uncle of Tanu&. The Russians were going to throw the body out because they dis- 248 SMITHSONIAN CONTRIBUTIONS TO ANTHROPOLOGY VOLUME 7 covered a Russian nail in the coffin. That started the trouble. [The coffin had been put together with hand- wrought iron nails.] Minnie Johnson, believed that the grave was that of the female shaman, Dax6dzu, sister to the Yakutat chief, Yaxodaqet. She lived on Knight Island and predicted the coming of the Russians. Further information about this woman is given under Shamanism (pp. 712-713). The Story of the CAnkuqedi The CAnkuqedi came to the Dry Bay country from southeastern Alaska, via Chilkat. It was before this movement northward that one of their women married the Sun (see pp. 873-874). After they were living in the Alsek River area, they acquired the Thunder (bird) as a crest. Frank Italio (1870-1956), the last old man of his sib, told how his people came to Dry Bay, and also how the Thunderbird House came to be built. HOW THE CANKUQEDI CAME TO DBY BAY [The following narrative, interpreted by Minnie Johnson, has been somewhat edited, to include ex- planations made later in the interview. Three songs in Athabaskan?the fourth was forgotten?and one in Tlingit, connected with the drownings in the "Aiyan River" were recorded, 1952, 4-1-A a, b, c, and 4-1-D, see p. 1174. August 29, 1952.] Carida was where all the CAnkuqedi were living together down in the Southeast of Alaska. And they separated from the others. At that time people could settle any place they wanted to, and some moved in to Chilkat and went from there on. From Chilkat up, they run across Qunana, interior Indians. They come across them in hunting. They married into the Qunana and became a part of them. The QanAxtedi claim they were the first to get ac- quainted with the Qunana, were the first to meet the Gunana that way. But the CAnkuqedi claim the Qan- Axtedi followed them there, that the QanAxtedi just followed them because they were married into them. The CAnkuqedi were the first to get acquainted with the Qunana, just like brother and sister together. They [the GanAxtedi] look down on them [for that?], but they're the first Tlingit that meet the Qunana. The QanAxtedi just follow them. Nuqwa, Nuqwayik, is the first place they come to. [This was a Tlingit-speaking settlement on the head- waters of the Tatshenshini, a branch of the upper Alsek, not far from the source of the Chilkat River.] Then they came to Tl'ukcu [Klukshu]. It was just a little way to Hutcayi [Hutshi Lake]. It means 'last lake.' I t was nothing but a big lake. It was a big place. That's where the women side of them married into the Qunana. Then they went to Tagic [to the east, on the Yukon drainage, but perhaps not as far south as Tagish Lake itself]. The Tagic people are always hired by someone to lead them on. The CAnkuqedi hired the Tagicqwan as guides. From there on, as they walked on the land, to Aiyan, they call it. The Aiyan were just like one of them, so the CAnkuqedi move right in, keep going. A long time they walk. It takes a whole year to travel back and forth from Aiyan's place. They call it Aiyan-'ani. [This is probably Selkirk on the Yukon.] It's a long ways to walk. The river is running out so swift and they can't get across. So they make a raft to cross the Aiyan hini. They tried to get across, but it's so swift all of the CAnkuqedi get killed but one. He's the only one of the CAnkuqedi bunch. There was a post there, and a line. You're supposed to catch the post so the raft won't be swept away. This man, QAtuduwA&E, grabbed the line but missed the post, so the whole shooting match went under a tunnel-like. That river is running right into a cave. None of them is saved. It is called Yel kasi, "the place that Raven cracked" [literally 'Raven's crevasse/ cf. Harrington, sft' khaassii, 'glacier's crevasse']. The fellow that was saved, he ran back to Chilkat, to notify the people that all his people are gone. So they all get up and went to that place. But when they got there, they found them all eat up by animals. So they went to work and gathered up the bones and just burned the bones. You see, the river went through there, and just when they passed through there, so swift, there's a kind of eddy on the other side. That's where they find those dead people carried there. At the mouth of that thing everything is boiling like, just boiling. So the bodies washed ashore, but the animals eat them up. Anything's bound to happen, it happens. That rope was made of moosehide, the strongest there is. That fellow done enough to get it around the post, but it broke, because it's time for them people to die. [This may well have been at the Five Finger Rapids on the Yukon.] Qanetl', 'Big Fat Man,' was the Aiyan chief. He had invited them. He kind of adopted them, get together as true friend, like brother and sister. He's chief of that Aiyan River. He's CAnkuqedi himself, because he adopted them. That's why he turned four of his potlatch songs over to the CAnkuqedi, so they can use them in place of the people who got drowned. It's just like he's guilty of the fact that the people died because he invited them. So he let them have IN THREE PARTS MYTH, LEGEND, AND MEMORY 249 four of his precious potlatch songs, so the CAnkuqedi can use them. So the CAnkuqedi got together and went to meet that man. That's the time they got those precious songs. [Frank Italio sang for the tape recorder three of the four songs in Athabaskan, all he could remember. He thanked us for listening, and then was overcome with grief. When recovered, he sang a song in Tlingit, com- posed by a CAnkuqedi woman whose relatives had been drowned in the Aiyan Kiver.] After they got drowned, they composed this song. This song is composed by a woman. It is made like that: Well, I give up, I give up. My uncles and my relatives, I give up. There's a lot of other people have suffered Just the same as I am, you know, And they get along just the same. But, you know, I don't give up, I don't give up. And the next words to the song are made like that : Why shouldn't my uncles come to be alive, And come to the door? Come in through the door and let me see you? Then I be sure that you're not all of you gone at once. Why should I expect you? I know that you're all drowned. But anyhow, sometimes I expect you to come in the door. But now, I give up, I give up. [Later, not recorded]: There's a verse I skipped: I should give up, But I know all my uncles is drowned. When first they started, I never had an idea they were all going to go at once. Yet they never came back. I should know they all get drowned. I should give up in the first place All my uncles went under the water when the raft broke. But I should know that. These are the words I skipped. [Frank Italio and the translator both wept when this song was played back.] The TlukwaxAdi were the first to settle in 'Alsex, and then the CAnkuqedi tribe women married into them. The woman was Cteyuti (or CtE'utE'); YelMda was the man. That's an old name. That TlukwaxAdi man went to Chilkat to get this CAnkuqedi girl to marry him. That's how the CAnkuqedi find out about the Alsek country. Then that man and wife had children growing up. They knew they came from Chilkat, so they go back to Chilkat, these grownup children of Cteyuti and YelMda. They found a glacier, an easy way to go back and forth. The name of the place where they found the road they have to walk on is called Kiyaxw or Giyal:w- It's not too big a glacier, just a small glacier. And from there they found a different place, called GutfAs or GutAS. This is the easiest way to walk back and forth, a path that goes easy, no bushes. And they get away from that glacier business. That was a long long way, and risky. But this was just like you walk on a board floor, no bushes to contend with. That's how the Yakutat people came to travel back and forth, easy. And even the Tanyedai Teqwedi found out about it. They go back and forth this way and don't use salt water. The Tanyeda? people walk across to Chilkat and then way back to the head of Alsek. That's how the Teqwedi came to Yakutat. But the ThikwaxAdi were the finders of Dry Bay and Alsek. The Gunana taught them [the Tlingit] how to travel. They're great travelers. Nothing to do but walk around. THE BOY WHO WAS TAKEN BY THE THTJNDERBIRDS (l949) [The following was told by Frank Italio, in 1949, with Helen Bremner interpreting, to explain the Thunderbird Screen in his house in Yakutat. It will be seen how little this version varies from the account recorded in 1952.] The tribe was moving in a canoe down from way up the Alsek River. The kid wanted to go ashore. When he went ashore for a rest he went up on top of a mountain, not very high, and lay down and fell asleep. When they moved on, they forgot him and left him there. They forgot him until they got to the glacier where they were going to camp. When they were unloading the canoe they saw he was left behind. It was only 1 day's travel down, but it was 4 days back to where they left the kid. They don't go back to look for him because they know he was already dead. The Thunderbirds found and saved the child. The child lived among the Thunders, and when he's grown up he came among his own tribe, and began to get feathers like the Thunderbird. The Thunderbird let him come down to his tribe, took him back. The Thunderbird didn't do any harm to that kid because he knows he belongs to his tribe. That's why he trained him to be a strong man and let him go back to his people. From that kid, the people know where the Thunder- bird lives. When it comes out, that's when you see the bright lightning. The kid didn't forget his own language. He talked to his people when he got back. The interpreter used the terms "Thunder" and "Thunderbird" interchangeably, since the Tlingit word, xetl, means both. In the following account note 250 SMITHSONIAN CONTRIBUTIONS TO ANTHROPOLOGY VOLUME 7 also that the Tlingit si-nex means both 'to save,' and 'to capture someone.' It is used of a supernatural being. THE BOY WHO WAS TAKEN BY THE THUNDEEBIKDS (l952) [Frank Italio recorded the story in Tlingit and sang two songs connected with it, 1952, 2-1-C and 2-1-F. These were translated by Minnie Johnson. The fol- lowing account is edited to include a preliminary trans- lation of the story which was given on the same occasion, but was not recorded. July 30, 1952.] Frank Italio was telling the reason why all the CAnkuqedi belong to the Thunderbird . . . the reason why they claim the Thunderbird is ahead [the head] of them, of the CAnkuqedi. The people were all at the head of the Alsek and there was a little boy with them. They were at a camping place called Glacier Point, Sii xayi, and they all went ashore for some kind of a lunch. You know the Alsek is very swift. They need lines to take the canoes up. This little boy was about 4 years old and he fell asleep on a flat rock. They didn't miss him until they were at the foot of the Alsek. From there it's 4 days travel back. All the CAnkuqedi were moving down and they miss that boy. Nobody feel like going back against the swift current of the river running out. My good- ness, it's 4 days hard travel back, so they decide it couldn't be done. They decide by the time they get there the boy will be dead. They might just as well give up. Nobody could go alone to get that boy. "He'll be dead." So they decide to let it go. . . . After that boy disappeared, they had a big potlatch when they know they can't get him back . . . After he's lost for good, sombody compose a song for the boy. That's why the boy's name is mentioned [in the song]. It is G6snl'w . . . So after they give up hope to see that little boy, some of the CAnkuqedi compose this song [1952, 2-1-C, see p. 1171]. The words to it are nothing but Eyak language [sic; the Tlingit, yAtqwan ?enAx, 'aboriginal speech,' in this case un- doubtedly refers to the local Athabaskan]. The old people understand that language at that time. It seems to hurt their hearts so bad they compose a song. They just mention his name. But they found out afterwards the Thunderbird take care of him. [The mourning song, with its quavering repetitions, was sung through twice; see pp. 1214-1215.] . . . He can't understand a word, but from gen- eration to generation they are practicing, so the next one to take his place. . . . I'm going to leave the Eyak [sic] language out. . . . That boy who was left up there start to cry, and the Thunderbird came around him, as a human being, and he save that boy. He took that boy and he raised him in a cave in the mountain. [Frank is demonstrating to them how he belongs to Thunderbird. . . .] The boy get lonesome, so the Thunderbird get it in his feeling he has no right to capture him, so he deliver him to his family. He's a full grown man when he come back. From his leg down, all around his knees to his ankles, it's turned into Thunderbird quills, and from his wrists to his elbows [along the insides of his limbs]. He is the one who is the head of the family. . . . When the boy begins to be a man old enough so he knows what the Thunderbird looks like, he start to give advice to the people [about] how the Thunder- bird took him in, and he gave instructions to the people. . . . That boy, when he come alive, when he come back, when he's full grown, he built that Xetl hrt [Thunderbird House] and paint that xin [screen, partition.] He built it according to the Thunderbird. . . . He made what you call a painted board like a picture of the Thunderbird. . . . He ordered how the Thunderbird house look in the mountain (pi. 91). So they made a xin. He sings a song whenever they potlatch that tribe. . . . That's why they claim that song and sing that at a big potlatch, because they spent so much money on it. . . . That's from generation to generation, they claim the Thunderbird is the head of them. But all the DAqEstina family died off but Frank Italio, the only head of the tribe who knows anything about it. . . . It hurts like anything, but he carried the tune out. . . . All of his family died off, and he's the only CAnkuqedi left. . . . This is a song for the painted screen [1952, 2-1-F, p. 1171]?Kagwantan xinasuwu [not translated]. The Kagwantan use that song, too, when they potlatch anyone. It's a new tribal song. They [CAnkuqedi] have been down among the Kagwantan but they come up to Dry Bay. . . . [After the song was sung, the interpreter explained]: The first words sings like it's an order from the boy captured by the Thunderbird about the wall painting. So this is composed by the Thunderbird captured boy. . . . [After a discussion with the informant, what appears to be a conflicting statement was given.] That's the song when they separate from the other tribe down below [apparently referring to the CAnkuqedi migration]. . . . The song that Frank Italio sings is an order from that little boy grown to a big man. He ordered this. And the understanding is, that the reason they use this song in the potlatch of a close relative who died, or something happened. . . . they use this song just to remind them of that little boy who got left on the rock. When he came back, he wants his people to belong to the Thunderbird. It's composed like this [first stanza]: Everytime when I hear the Thunderbird, IN THREE PARTS MYTH, LEGEND, AND MEMORY 251 This man whenever he gets hurt, [I always become hurt] The Thunderbird sounds like my brother that I lost, It sounds like my uncle that I lost, When I hear the thunder noise. The next words he sings sounds like this [second stanza]: They have got no pity for me. They have got no pity for me. But I get surprised when I hear the thunder. It sounds like the relatives I lost, Because they got no pity for me, They left me alone. But the Thunderbird is the head of us. I'm alone and the only one left. But the ladies ask me to sing what belongs to my tribe. COMMENT ON THE THUNDEEBIED STORY One of three verses of the same or a similar song was recorded by Mrs. Chester Johnson, June 10, 1954, 1954, 5-2-E, p. 1172. The song was" Xetlxu daciyi, a song for the Thunder Blanket . . . composed before my mother was born. He's lonesome for that thunder noise." [The words were dictated and translated:] It always makes me lonesome, When I hear the thunder. I always think of [imagine] my brother, When I hear the thunder. [The second stanza is about "my uncle?'ax kak."] [The informant added:] Gdxnaq?xetl [thunder] catch him. Xetttc wucat [by-thunder he-was-seized]. That's why we build Thunder House. The Story of the Teqwedi As we have seen, Swanton's informant dated the arrival of the Teqwedi from Prince of Wales Island among the Kwackqwan shortly after the settlement of the latter on Yakutat Bay. The stories about 3Catga- wet?or about a Teqwedi man to whom this name and personality is ascribed?would support this chronology. We have, unfortunately, no adequate account of the immigration of the Bear House lineage, to which Xatgawet belonged. This is because the last big men of the lineage, Jim Kardeetoo, who was also named Xatgawet, and William Milton, Nequt or NEgut, died in 1937 and 1950 (or 1951), so that there was no one who felt ready to tell the official history of this house. For this reason, we have only brief statements about the Bear House group, in contrast to the fuller history of the Drum House Teqwedi, told by their leader, Olaf Abraham. COMMENTS ON TEQWEDI HISTORY [The following remarks were made by Jack Ellis, 1949.] The Tongass Teqwedi split up in a fight over a girl. She was married to an old chief in one house?a chief always had one young wife?and a young fellow in the next house wanted her. The people of the chief's house killed him, and they had to move to Killisnoo. They kept on moving to Diyaguna'Et. At this place, the Teqwedi, who were rich traders, had three houses in a fort. The L'u?edi, 'Muddy Water People,' named for the Situk River, took the fort from them in a battle. Later when they [L'u^edi?] went to Khantaak(?) to get a woman, the Kwackqwan killed them all off. [The following was volunteered after stressing the difference between the true Teqwedi of southeastern Alaska and the Tlaxayik-Teqwedi. (Harry K. Bremner; May 2, 1954).] Long long before the Russians, a Yakutat chief sent to Southeast of Alaska for a chief's daughter to marry to his son. He paid a lot for her. All Gau hittan [Drum House people] are descended from her. . . . They settled on Ahrnklin River. But the Xuts hittan [Bear House people] came up themselves in war canoes [later?]. They had a war with the Tlaxayik-Teqwedi at Lost River, at Diyaguna'Et. All were killed except the chief. His face was badly cut. His name was Daqusetc. . . . Yes, there were lots of that name. . . . The chief of that name was head of Xuts hit on Khantaak [Chief Minaman]. It was also called Tus hit [Shark House]. Xuts hit was the mother? just as Yel saqe hit [Raven's Bones House] was the mother of lots of houses. [Unfortunately, the name of the chief does not tell us whether he was Bear House Teqwedi or Tlaxayik- Teqwedi, since famous names of the latter are now borne by the Bear House Teqwedi. I would suppose that Daqusetc was, however, a Bear House chief, and that it was his group that were defeated. The final crushing of the Tlaxayik-Teqwedi did not occur until after the Russians had been driven out, see pp. 262-270.] [A Drum House man made the following statement. (Sheldon James, Sr.; February 23, 1954).] The Teqwedi came from down south. But my family came from Dry Bay by the interior. The others stayed in Dry Bay and Italio River, but us, we came on to 'Antlen. Frank Italio's tribe [CAnkuqedi] and my tribe came from the same place, same family. [But the 252 SMITHSONIAN CONTRIBUTIONS TO ANTHROPOLOGY VOLUME 7 CAnkuqedi remained in Dry Bay, while the Teqwedi came toward Yakutat.] They used to tell us that Teqwedi had just one tribe to get married with? Tl'uknaxAdi. That was olden days. It changed a lot since my grandfather's days. Before that time, a person can't do as he please against his tribe's rules. Now they call it a free country. [The same man had said, August 3, 1952:] We used to live in Dry Bay. But some boys walked to Ahrnklin. People were living there. So they bought the Ahrnklin. The others stayed in Dry Bay and became the CAnkuqedi. Other Teqwedi came from Ketchikan. The original owners of Ahrnklin spoke Tlingit. THE TEQWEDI AND TLUKNAXADI AT DRY BAY [The following brief story, told by Emma Ellis, a Kagwantan woman from Dry Bay, may serve to illus- trate how the souhteastern Alaskan sibs, Teqwedi and Tl'uknaxAdi, became established in the Dry Bay area. (February 21,1954.)] A Tl'uknaxAdi man, Qatlsex (or Qalseykw), stopped this side of Lituya Bay, at Yakwdeyii!a. He was coming up from Southeast of Alaska?wanted to get some- thing [presumably in trade]. He had a young daughter. I guess she's Teqwedi, I don't know her name. His daughter got first monthly and can't go on the water. So he stayed there with his daughter. And all the other TlukwaxAdi were going over there, and see those people. . . . You know, a man always takes a good woman. A TlukwaxAdi 'anqawu [aristocrat] see that girl. Her mother ask her, "Give me that thing." They put a blanket around the girl. That man feel it in his heart, is stuck on that girl. He talks to her mother and father. Qatlsex says, "That's OK." He can marry that girl. Then they give so many things to her mother and father [as bride price]. . . . The nephews, they take that girl. They packing to 'Alsex . . . way up to head of 'Alsex. That's how they got that Tl'trknaxAdi?put it together in Dry Bay, because that girl is married to that TlukwaxAdi. They don't bother that country over there, [i.e., the Tl'uk- naxAdi made no claims on Dry Bay]. They say that's TlukwaxAdi country, good country. All TlukwaxAdi owned Dry Bay. THE STOKY OF THE DBUM HOUSE TEQWEDI [This version is compiled from statements and expla- nations made by Olaf Abraham, and translated by his wife, Susie Abraham, July 24, 1952. A copy was given to him and approved by him.] Long ago the Teqwedi came here from Ketchikan. They were feeling bad when they left, and those who stayed behind felt bad, too. They had trouble. But now they forget it. They stopped at Killisnoo and Klukwan. At Sitka Island they separated, and some went outside and some went inside. Those that went inside, when they separa- ted at the point, were Olaf Abraham's ancestors. They stopped at some place between Lituya Bay and Dry Bay. [Olaf Abraham had forgotten the name.] They made a town there, and settled there. The young people began to go for a walk and made a long trip. They found some people at Arhnklin. The name of the river is 'Antlen, short for 'At 'ani-t!6n, 'big town of animals.' The young people fell in love with the mountains and the river. They went back and told their chief how pretty that river is. The chief's name was Gutli;niyu; he was chief of Gau hit [Drum House]. So the chief went to meet the other chief, the chief of the YEnyedi who owned the land, and they began to talk about it. So Gutlfeniyu bought the Ahrnklin land for a big copper, tinna. The copper was as long as from the tips of his fingers to his chin, when his head was bent back, and was worth 10 slaves. Then all the Gau hittan came up there and the YEnyedi moved to southeastern Alaska, to Taku, where some of them still live today. The Teqwedi built a big town on the Ahrnklin which they called 'Antlen, the same name as the river. It had four big houses: Drum House and Thunderbird House, and two others. Lots of people used to live there, but they are all gone now. There were also other towns there. The river is cutting into the bank where the town of 'Antlen used to be and you can see charcoal 4 feet deep in the ground where the houses stood. The land bought by the Gau hittan included Dan- gerous River, called Kuthtcki bin, the east branch of the Ahrnklin called Staxeya, the main branch of the Ahrnklin, and the northwest branch called GAnEtsitsk. The name is in the language of the people who first owned this land, so we don't know what it means. The land also included Seal River to the west, called Tsa 'i?e. There is also a small stream northwest of the Seal River that also opens into the mouth of the Ahrnklin, but it has no name. Olaf Abraham's uncle, Daknaqin [Ned Dok-na-kane, died sometime after 1921], used to own the land before him, but now Olaf Abraham owns it. He has four cabins there, and goes there to hunt every year. Because the land was bought for a copper worth 10 slaves, everyone has respect for him, and no one in Yakutat will go there to hunt without asking him permission. All the rivers from Dangerous River to the Situk belong to the Gau hittan, but Olaf Abraham doesn't take care of Dangerous River any more. Other Teqwedi, Xuts hittan, Bear House People, own IN THREE PARTS MYTH, LEGEND, AND MEMORY 253 Situk and Lost River. They settled there later, and this land is not as valuable because they didn't buy it; they just homesteaded it. The Tlaxayik-Teqwedi were a different group. They lived at Situk and Lost Kiver and in Yakutat Bay long ago. LucwAq was their chief. They were almost all killed in a war, and the rest of them moved north. George Johnson came from that place and is called LucwAq. The YEnyedi also lived in Yakutat Bay, once. They sold Knight Island and Eleanor Island and other islands to the Kwackqwan. The Kwac]sqwan came from Copper River and spoke Copper River language. That is different from George Johnson's language. Now the Kwac?qwan and the Gau hittan Teqwedi marry each other and both tribes speak Tlingit and live in Yakutat. [Minnie Johnson, August 17, 1952, identified the builder of Thunderbird House on the Ahrnklin as KitcidA&, Heavy Wings, for whom Daknaqin was also named.] COMMENT ON THE SALE OF AHENKLrN LANDS [Maggie Harry, a Kwac&qwan woman, explained what happened to the YEnyedi (August 24, 1952).] The YEnyedi sold Ahrnklin and walked to the interior, to Taku, via the Yukon. They went from the head of Yakutat Bay over a glacier, Sit! liusa, 'narrow glacier,' in Nunatak Fiord. [She was uncertain of the location.] From there they went to Tcanukwa [probably near Scotty Creek on the headwaters of the Alsek, below Dalton Post]. Then to Taku Lake, and to Klukwan. That's where they came from. It was 3 months walking. It took 1% months to Taku Lake or Atlin Lake, 'AtHn. They went all around Atlin Lake to Klukwan. [There are two versions of how the Ahrnklin Drum House people were nearly exterminated. One of these ascribes the trouble to smallpox, the other to a feud within the lineage or sib, but since the time when this occurred is evidently fairly recent, these stories are postponed to a later section. It was, however, while the Drum House people were living on the Ahrnklin that they obtained the Golden Eagle as a crest. Here also, the wolves guarded the body of a Drum House man who had drowned (p. 828).] THE STOET OF THE GOLDEN EAGLE [The following official version of how the Drum House Teqwedi obtained their crest is compiled from the story as told by Olaf Abraham and translated by his son, February 28, 1954, and as he told it on April 8, 1954 as an introduction to the Golden Eagle's song (p. 1166). This version and the translation by his nephew, the late Sheldon James, Sr., were recorded 1954,1-1-F. Another translation of the last was also made by John Ellis on April 15, 1954.] Now you are going to hear from us about our origin and destiny [ha CAgun]. We are Teqwedi. You will hear the song about the place where we have our land. This happened way up at the head of Ahrnklin River. One of our ancestors [QeyegAtqfn] who were living at Ahrnklin was out hunting in the mountains at the head of Ahrnklin, and he came upon that Golden Eagle. As he was coming towards it, he heard it singing. That was why he walked towards the place where the song was coming. As soon as the bird saw the man, it began to sing in Tlingit, and he could understand it. The man saw that Golden Eagle was holding two baby groundhogs. It had broken its wing trying to catch those little ground- hogs. The bird did not want to be killed, so in place of its life, it gave that song to the man. He listened until he learned it by heart. That is how the old people came to know it. They never liked to kill anything in a wounded condition. And that is why the bird gave the man that song in place of its life. Then the man came to the bird, set the wing, and put it in a dry cave in the rock. That bird was intended to be the origin and destiny of the Ahrnklin Teqwedi. Ahrnklin is where that Golden Eagle Screen was created [formerly in Drum House, Old Tillage]. (PL 213.) How many hundreds of years the people were living before us? But the history of what happened to them has been handed down from generation to generation from that time to the present. That is why we know it. This is the song I want to sing, so everybody can hear it. If anyone belonging to the Drum House People hears this song, anywhere in the world, he will know who he is, and from whom he is descended. That is all. I am going to sing: [The words of the song are:] I come from the other side of the mountain. From where the sun rises, it is beginning to be light. The dawn of morning is coming from the other side of the mountain. [The name, QeyegAtqfn, also heard as QeyetgAtqin, and even ^eyegatqin, was born by Skin Canoe George or George Ki-ye-quat-kene, 1855-1900. He was the brother of Daknaqin, and assistant to the shaman, Tek-'ic. He was the son of Yaxodaqet and QakEn- Axkuge1. He was Olaf Abraham's uncle and the father of the first Mrs. Olaf Abraham. The name was inherited by Olaf's older brother, Joseph, and since the death of the latter is borne by Olaf Abraham himself.] 254 SMITHSONIAN CONTRIBUTIONS TO ANTHROPOLOGY VOLUME 7 The Story of the Galyix-Kagwantan The account of the Galyix-Kagwantan included in Harry Bremner's history of Yakutat is probably as authentic and official a version as we can obtain. Only a few additional details are available. ORIGIN OP THE GALYIX-KAGWANTAN Mrs. Katy D. Isaac (March 29, 1954) believed that the Qaiyix-Kagwantan were "a branch of the Qukw hittan?Box House People. . . . [They came to Galyix] just through intermarriage from down there." [The following brief account was given by Helen Bremner, a member of the sib. (July 14, 1952.)] In Galyix (or GalyAx), after the big Flood, we are all out on the ocean. First, they see a beautiful mountain. And a big man is sitting in the boat, acting as captain. "See that beautiful mountain over there. Looks like it's all painted. Maybe there's a river and we can find the mouth." They come to the mountain and they see the mouth and went in. They see the best place, and the Kagwantan get out and take the best place. There is just enough dry land for them. Those that came later are left out. "Go in the swampy place," they said. They were the Tcicqedi. And when there were too many for Galyix, we move farther up to Bering River and Strawberry Harbor. And then the Tcicqedi moved farther up, to their fathers, that is, to the mouth of the Copper River. Their fathers were the GanAxtedi. The GanAxtedi gave them too much land, and they got too much fur. So the GanAxtedi took it away again. [It was while the Galyix-Kagwantan were living on Bering River that they obtained the Beaver as a crest, see below. It is not clear from where the Galyix-Kagwantan brothers went into the sky; how- ever, see pp. 875-879]. WAR WITH THE ALEUTS [One episode about Xatgawet concerns the Galyix- Kagwantan. (Helen Bremner; June 20 and 26, 1952.)] Xatgawet had 10 wives. He married them all, looking for the richest one, and finally married Kagwantan's daughter. . . . We [Galyix-Kagwantan] used to have a war with the Aleuts. We are on land at Galyix (GalyAx) and they are in the boats. Xatgawet, the Teqwedi chief, was married to Tleyan (TlS'an), the Kwackqwan daughter of the Kagwantan chief. She was the sister of Dux, who bought Knight Island. When the fight started, Xatgawet said: "I'm going to be in with my father-in law." He was walking back and forth in front of everyone, and was shot by an arrow in his forehead. He recovered and the Kagwantan gave him the best land. [That is, he was given the right to hunt on the best land. The Teqwedi never acquired permanent rights in this area.] THE GAiYIX-KAGWANTAN BEAVER [The following account was given by Helen Bremner, a Galyix-Kagwantan woman, June 26, 1952. She knew that the Raven Decitan of Angoon also claimed the Beaver, and had read Swanton's "The Beaver of Killisnoo" (1909, Tale 68; de Laguna, 1960, pp. 136 i.). The Galyix-Kagwantan myth resembles more closely however, Swanton's 'The Big Beaver' (1909, Tale 62).] The Decitan got the Beaver by accident, I guess. We have Segedi [Beaver], too. We learned a song from Segedi. The Decitan learned it, too, but it's a different one. Ours is: "I wonder who can stop my uncles. They built a town for nothing." [The beaver house was in a lake.] It's all washed away. The lake washed away and the Segedi-qwan [Beaver People] all died off. A Kagwantan young man was out hunting. They get the best things?furs? and fur of beaver is the best. He saw the lake was all washed away?no beaver house, nothing. He was looking around. He heard someone sing, half crying. He looked to see where that was. He looked up in the tree, the alder. There was a little Beaver singing. He didn't want to kill it. He learned that song, went back home, and reported what he had seen. That's how we got that song and that house Segedi hit [Beaver House]. [At the request of this informant, Frank Italio told the story and sang the song composed by the little Beaver, September 13, 1952. This was recorded, as was the translation by Minnie Johnson, 1952, 7-1-B and 7-1-D, p. 1169.] Now I'm going to explain the story, the reason why they claim the Beaver as their tribal affair and why they claim all the Galyix-Kagwantan belong to the Beaver tribe. Once they lived at a place called 'AnAkwe" in Tlingit or in Eyak language. And the Beaver built a den [dam ?] there. But for some reason or other, the den was destroyed, and the whole bunch of Beavers were all drowned. It seems there was just one little Beaver left. Finally they found that little Beaver sitting where the den was destroyed, all by his lonesome. And he com- posed this song: There's nobody prohibit one another from building the den there. They know very well the river will IN THREE PARTS MYTH, LEGEND, AND MEMORY 255 destroy it. Nobody put them wise to it; nobody begged out. And they built the den there, and they know they've got to be destroyed by the river. That's why they made that song: Who will stop building the den? Who will stop building the den? But they do it. They build the den just the same. That's why all my uncles went, and just left me behind alone. That's why the Galyrx-Kagwantan claim that song, because the little Beaver composed it. And they use this song when they give a potlatch, when they're going to give the money away or else invite the people to the big potlatch. . . . And finally they built a tribal house in that place they call 'AnAkwe in their language, and they named it Beaver House. But afterwards the people put them wise to it? that they should make something to remember the Beaver by, instead of building the house. The house will soon be destroyed. [Is this a reference to the flood on Bering River that destroyed Beaver House and Wolf House, cf. p. 104, or does it refer to the beaver's lodge?] The next words to the song the little Beaver composed are like this: Because there was nobody [to warn them ?], they're just as much to blame as the people that destroyed that den. And so, he gives up hope. He sees the rest, his uncles and his whole family? all went. There's nobody to blame but themselves, because they put the den there where the river goes out pretty swift. They are just as much to blame as the river and the people [who?] are in 'AnAkwe\ That's the reason they claim this song, as their tribal song. . . . So this song belongs to Segedi; they belong to Segedi tribe. [There was no further information about any people who might have destroyed the beaver dam. The Galyi?-Kagwantan Beaver song is known to have the same tune as that sung by the Decitan, although the words are different. Frank Italio also said something about the Decitan Beaver story. The Decitan broke the dam with their spears and a woman of their sib heard the Beaver sing. It was a male, and when grown it took revenge by killing the Decitan chief and his relatives. (MJ, September 14, 1952).] This story prompted the comment by Helen Bremner (recorded): "That little Beaver is a very active little animal." [A Kwack'qwan informant also told the story, although explaining, "It's not our nation. I can't talk about it." (May 5, 1954.) This version is somewhat edited.] When that village was washed away, just one Beaver, the mother Beaver was saved. It went up into the bushes and sat down, and the water was coming down and washed it [the beaver lodge] away. . . . That man went hunting. And he heard that song. That's why that man took it down to the canoe, that Beaver. He saved it; he don't want to kill it because he learned that song from that animal. And he kept it in his house, just like people. He took care of it. That man is Kagwantan. That's why Kagwantan keep that song. . . . And that Beaver, they never killed it. That man saw it. There was just one kind of nation there. That man said: "That Beaver is going to be my nation, going to be my sister." He's alone, just like it. He went away from his relations for good. And that Beaver saved itself, when [the rest] washed away. And that's why the Kagwantan had that Segedi hit there; and that Beaver stay in it sometimes. [Another Kwacls:qwan informant, Annie Johnson, was talking about the Galyix-Kagwantan Beaver, and sang a snatch of the song, but refused to record it, because it didn't belong to her sib. "Too bad?I scared" (August 13,1952). Minnie Johnson then sum- marized the story:] How they come to claim the Beaver?It was way up the Chilkat River [Bering River, Controller Bay]. They go over a glacier to get there. And then somebody matures, a young girl. And they ain't supposed to walk on the glacier. A Beaver got a dam there, and he has a big family and a dam. The glacier melt and wash the whole thing away. And just one Beaver was left and he composed this song. That's why he owns the song and why it belongs to Galyix-Kagwantan. The way ahead of the Chilkat [headwaters of the Bering River] belongs to the Kagwantan. [It should be noted that this version, which blames the flood that destroyed the beaver colony on the breach of a menstrual taboo, was told a month before Frank Italio recorded the story, as translated above by the same informant.] [Another Kwackqwan woman, March 8, 1954, who had heard the recording, commented:] Frank Italio said 'It was told me by two people, this story.' He didn't mention who told him. . . . 'Some- body told me' . . . I think that's why he's telling it different from the way other people tell it. It's by the flood it's all washed away. And that little Beaver left alone. The little Beaver was sitting alone on top of 256 SMITHSONIAN CONTRIBUTIONS TO ANTHROPOLOGY VOLUME 7 the cottonwood, just moving?you know how flood is. People used to live in big rivers. That's how those Beavers were living, in the river. . . . I t 's my father's tribe and I hear them tell it. . . . I t was the flood, but . . . Frank tells that somebody broke the Beaver's dam. THE GALYiy-KAGWANTAN AND THE FIRST SHIP [The following story was also told by Helen Bremner (June 20, 1952).] Along east of Yakataga, two [Galyrx-Kagwantan] boys were beachcombing, running around the beach. They saw a schooner. They saw a White lady sitting inside. She was holding a gun. She pointed it at them. They didn't understand what it was. She thought the two Indians had done something to the two men from the ship. [Apparently this was explained by signs.] They saw the tracks of the two men and followed them back to the glacier, to where the men had fallen in the black pit under the ice. They came back and took her by the hand and led her to the place, so she could see what had happened. Then they took a lot of things from the ship, but they didn't understand them. They thought rice was worms and threw it overboard, although she explained it was good to eat. The black powder they thought was dried blueberries and tried to eat it, but she explained with gestures that it would explode, and made them throw it away. She gave them guns and tried to show them how to shoot. But they took them and burned the wooden part off and broke them up for iron. They made the steel into spears. An iron spearpoint used to cost a slave. So they became wealthy. One of the boys was Qatsxa (Katsxa). He was the bravest and the fastest runner. The White woman married him and finally died of old age. Qatsxa used to run across the ice from Point Manby to Yakutat. He was the fastest one. There was a big tree at Point Manby, hollow. He would get inside and hear the storm coming long before. Then he wouldn't try to cross on the ice. If he didn't hear anything, he can run across. (Other people could also use the tree as a storm warning.) [Mention is made of the same hollow tree in Swan ton's story of the Kwaciqwan, 1909, Tale 105, p. 360. How- ever, it is placed beside the glacier at the head of Humpback Creek, and gives a warning not to cross the glacier. Since the glacier is reached by canoe and is the home of the seals, it would appear to be ice across Disenchantment Bay, if not across Yakutat Bay.] [A Kwacltqwan woman, Sarah Williams, also men- tioned the finding of the wrecked ship. A man of her sib, born 1897, had been telling the story (May 10,1954).] He's talking about it. He's the first?Qatsxa married with the Kussian girl. They find her in the boat on the beach, in the ship. They got four White men?Rus- sians?and they die under that glacier, and put that White lady in the boat. That White lady never under- stand them [the Indians who found her], and they never understand that White lady. The people were looking for the four men. He's the one married with that White woman. He's Kagwantan. The Copper Eiver people told them [i.e., there were apparently Kwackqwan with the Galyix-Kagwantan], "We better help that woman." And they go in the ship and they ask her what happened. And they say it's on the beach, that ship. And they were looking for some- thing, those men, and they lost it [or, the four Russians were lost]. They never come back. They fell under the glacier. And that man saw it, that Qatsxa saw it. "I'm going to be married with that woman" [he said]. She is the one. They came, came from the Copper River close to Mount Saint Elias, that's where they found it. And they came with us [Kwackqwan], they married with that Kagwantan. That Kagwantan took care of that woman. That's the way he [PF] say it. He just talking about it, and I hear him sing two songs. Wars with the Aleuts While there are traditions of wars with the "Aleuts," as we have seen, it is almost impossible to determine when the particular incidents occurred. Probably there was long-standing hostility, antedating the arrival of Russian-led sea-otter hunters which inflamed hatred of the Goftex. Some of the events, such as the raids on Chugach territory, probably included that of 1792 in which Baranov himself was accidentally involved (see pp. 158-159), perhaps the "Massacre at St. Elias Rock" in 1799 (see p. 169), and almost certainly the raid made in the fall of 1805, just after the destruction of the Yakutat post, which led to the massacre of the Yakutat on Hawkins Island (see p. 175). Because of the uncertainty of dating, it seems most convenient to present these short historical comments here. COMMENTS RECORDED BY HAKBINGTON [Apropos of the Aleuts]: These buggers are too mean. They had to chase them out from Katalla and way from Cordova to the island. They are the same size as I, small fellows, and they sneak up on you and kill you when you are asleep. They are sure going to get you when you are sound asleep. [George Johnson; 1939 or 1940.] [Apropos of place names in the Yakutat area]: The IN THREE PARTS MYTH, LEGEND, AND MEMORY 257 Aleuts used to come in here and had Aleut names on all the islands here but they used to catch people for slaves, and so the native people chased off the Aleuts from Yakutat. [Maggie Harry; 1939 or 1940.] ALEUTS AS THE FIRST RESIDENTS [One Tl'uknaxAdi informant shared the belief, already recorded (pp. 213,237), that the "Aleuts" were the first residents of Yakutat. The Kwackqwan seem to have met Aleuts at or near Icy Bay, and from them obtained a skin boat with which they tried to cross Yakutat Bay. (Compare with Sitka Jake's version, Swanton, 1909, pp. 350 f.) One gathers, however, that in the end the immigrants walked across the ice.] . . . Aleuts used to live on Knight Island, They didn't have a village there, no permanent camp. They just moved around. When the Copper River Indians walked here over the ice there was Aleut mixed in with them. They made skin canoes. . . . The KwacH:qwan speared the Aleuts like fish and got rid of them. [Minnie Johnson; June 9, 1952.] This place, when the natives came over from Copper River, from Mount Saint Elias, when they walk over . . . and they were stuck there [on the shore]. They don't have no shack or nothing to stay in. And get so lonesome they don't even know what to do. The glaciers sticking out so far. They can't even walk over. So the Aleuts loaned them the skin canoe. And they start to build one, but they got no materials to make it with. The Aleuts struckf?] this place, and the Aleuts got that canoe to come here with. They went as far as Manby, and they struck, and knocked a hole in that canoe. That's as far as they went. They had to go back to Icy Bay. I used to hear my grandmother tell. When they got that steam bath house they used to tell one another. [When they went back to Icy Bay] they got a canoe built then, they made another boat. They were Ginexqwan that time. . . . They said the Aleuts struck this place first. And they went and settled around. I think that's who Xatgawet bought that CUnAWAS from. He bought it from the Aleuts. . . . They try to drive them [Aleuts] out of here. That's what I overheard in the steam bath room there. The Aleuts tried to fight and they don't win it. They scattered in the water, and they speared them with the spear, like fish. [Minnie Johnson did not know whether this last was before or after the Russians, May 31, 1954.] In describing the stone dam on T'awal Creek, Schwatka (October 26, 1886, p. 2) reports that his guide, Yeet-shwoo-doo-kook "told me that it was when the Aleuts held this country as their own, long before the white men came among them. . . . I questioned him about the legends in his tribe regarding the first arrival of these people, and felt perfectly satisfied that the history of the whites in this country was fairly known by him. They knew of the visit of the ships that lost the men in small boats in Lituya Bay near their own country, the fishing of the Russians and Aleuts for sea otter across the great bay where they lived, near Point Manby, and a dozen other incidents which show that their idea of the first arrival of the white man was approximately correct and that it is not unfair to suppose that the Aleuts once occupied the land now occupied by the Yakutat Thlinkets." [The stone dam which the Aleuts were said to have made is described on p. 75.] ALEUT RAIDS ON YAKUTAT [Harry K. Bremner was explaining the place names in the Yakutat area. July 11, 1952.] A long time ago I think they used three or four languages in Yakutat. Some places, these islands, I think it's mostly Aleut [names]. And it's mostly Eyak. . . . I really don't know why there are Aleut place names here. . . . The Aleuts used to come here, but they are a bad people. They want to kill. . . . The Aleuts came here sea-otter hunting way before the Russians. The Aleuts had a war with all the tribes. Anything they could see [they would kill, or steal?]. They don't know the tribes. They talk a different language. . . . The Aleuts just killed?no limit. They didn't declare war, they just come down to fight when they don't expect it. They used to catch the Yakutat people when they come to Cordova to trade. [Another Kwac?qwan man, Sampson Harry, explained the stone fortifications on the small island east of Knight Island. (August 23, 1952.)] It is called Nuliw, 'Little Fort.' The Teqwedi made it. All the Teqwedi were together when the war is going on. The Aleuts came after them with their canoes, but they daren't take a chance, because they don't see any way to get in. The Teqwedi know they're going to come after them. Xatgawet is chief at that time. [It is not clear what Teqwedi group or groups may have been involved.] [The same informant told of the escape of a Yakutat Indian from the Aleuts. ^February 25, 1954.)] The Aleuts came down and made war, too. [He had been telling about trouble with the mysterious makers of the sealing canoes at Icy Bay (see p. 241).] They found the Aleuts' boats when they came to 258 SMITHSONIAN CONTRIBUTIONS TO ANTHROPOLOGY VOLUME 7 Dolgoi Island. Gut'ex 'ayi [Aleuts' Lake] was where they found the canoe, when the Aleuts came. They had sneaked in there. They took all the dugu yAkw [skin boats] in that lake out there. One [Yakutat] man goes hunting seals out there and he takes his tcAyac [forked-prow hunting canoe] with him. [He evidently landed and went ashore.] Close to the lake, as soon as he stands up there, he sees that dugu yAkw in the lake out there. And those GufeA see him at the same time. And he turn around and ducks down, makes believe he's [a] seal. He sneaked to his boat. He look out and he move his boat, and he duck down again like he's a seal. That's why Gut'e :^ thinks he was seal. He thinks he's going to come to shore again. [The Indian] make believe he don't see. That's how he got away?smart man! When he grab his boat, jump on it, he paddle all the way out fast, and he duck down again. Gut!e? watch him. Sometimes he take his spear, then he put it down again. That's how he sneak away. When he come around the point, he come to where the natives stay over there, at 'As kutu 'an [Village in the Forest], on the inside of Dolgoi Island. . . . Then he let them all know. So they get away from them Aleuts. . . . YAKUTAT EAIDS ON THE CHUGACH [The last informant also told about carrying the war to Prince William Sound. (February 25, 1954.)] . . . Long time ago they start war with Teqwedi. The Russians were over there with them already. These Aleuts, one Russian was helping them. That's why lots of those Teqwedi get killed that time. The Kwackqwan fight with the Aleuts, too. At Degelxa [Mummy Island, opposite the village of Tauxtvik, Hawkins Island], that's the place they killed the Kwac&qwan people. [The Kwackqwan were going up there to fight.] They were going after some things to the westward [i.e., on a raid]. They just go in for a dance?10 of them, I think. They [the Aleuts] get nine of them. One get away, so the people know. The Aleuts pretend to dance. Somehow, he got away to Yakutat, so they know it. So they went back to Eyak River, start the war. In 1928 I went to Cordova and one boy talked to me about it. He looked kind of like a halfbreed, but he never forget the troubled days. I talked to him. I know the story, too. No Russians helped the Aleuts that time. I don't know which war with the Aleuts was first, Teqwedi or Kwac?qwan. [Helen Bremner had remarked, June 26, 1952:] The Kwackqwan got killed in a war on Mummy Island in Prince William Sound. I wonder if the mum- mies are still there. [The mummies had been removed from the burial caves prior to my first visit to the island in 1930. This find made a great impression also upon the Atna at Copper Center, for they also mentioned this as a scene of a battle.] The First Ship at Lituya Bay The very brief account of the first ship that came to Lituya Bay, told by Frank Italio in 1949, may be com- pared with the much fuller story recorded by Emmons. The ship, or rather ships, were certainly those of LaPerouse, even though the Yakutat people believe that the ship was Russian. Furthermore, they say the Russians came because they were attracted by the things which had fallen into the water when canoes from Gu&ex were wrecked. Since this disaster is usually cited as the reason for the abandonment of the town on the Akwe, an event which did not take place until perhaps the mid-19th century, at any event some time after the Russians had been expelled, we are led into chronological difficulties which cannot be resolved. THE FIRST SHIP AT LITUYA BAY [Told by Frank Italio, Helen Bremner interpreting, 1949.] The CAnkuqedi were over at Lituya Bay. The reason the Russians came was because baggage fell overboard and the swift current carried it out. The Russians found it in the ocean, so they knew they were near shore. When they came to Lituya Bay, the Tl'uknaxAdi and the CAnkuqedi looked at the Russians through kelp? no, skunk cabbage leaves?-like a spyglass, because they thought the Russians were land otters. Skunk cabbage would protect them. The Indians thought the Russians were land otters disguised as people. The Russians just came to the mouth of Lituya Bay in a big schooner?they don't come inside. They anchored out there. No one came ashore; no one went out to them. They were scared of one another. [When questioned through the interpreter, Frank Italio professed not to have heard about the wreck of LaPe'rouse's two boats, nor of the prior wreck of skin boats in Lituya Bay as described by the French ex- plorer, nor of the type of cemetery with the skull separated from the cremated corpse, reported by LaPerouse. The boats wrecked at Lituya Bay were wooden canoes, he said, coming from Gusex.] IN THREE PARTS MYTH, LEGEND, AND MEMORY 259 [The following notes were recorded by Harrington in the spring of 1940, when on a trip to Disenchantment Bay with Jack Ellis.] J. E. says that Latuya Bay is a bad place. Just at one time 10 canoes full of Indians were drowned at Latuya Bay. They had large halibut-skin bags full of valuable furs, fox, etc., etc.?but they did not go much for mink and sea otter. The Indians believed that these two kinds (mink and sea otter [Harrington should have written land otter]), if a man got lost and suddently became weak, that the mink or otter (people) came to him and the man felt his hands and legs growing short?he was turning into a sea otter. And he turned into one. So the Tlingit never killed minks or sea otters much. These bags were made of halibut skins sewed together and were water- tight. They floated. They were filled with valuable pelts. So when the Latuya Bay Indians saw a white-colored schooner of otter hunters coming on the high tide into Latuya Bay the following year, they thought it was "Crow" [Raven] coming back?they were always looking for the re-epiphany of Crow. And then they thought the white people must have picked up a halibut- skin bag of pelts floating way out somewhere and knew from that that they must have pelts at Latuya Bay and so the whites headed straight for Latuya Bay. The Crow [Raven] had told them that his again- coming anyone that looked at him directly would turn to stone, and that all should look at him through a funnel made of a rolled up skunkcabbage leaf. When the schooner came in, all the Latuya Bay people took to the woods, from which they looked at the comers through skunkcabbage leaves. Only one man looked at the comers without skunkcabbage leaf, and he later went over and talked with the white comers. "NATIVE ACCOUNT OF THE MEETING BETWEEN LAPEROUSE AND THE TLINGIT11 [The following account, obtained by Emmons from "Cowee," the main chief of the Awk people at "Sinta- ka" hini on Gastineaux Channel, was published inl911. The outline is given here and the names are transcribed according to the orthography used in this monograph.] Before the White man came, the people of Chilkat and Hoonah used to go to Yakutat to get copper from the Tlaxayik people. One spring a large party of Tl'uknaxAdi went from the big village at KAxnuwu [Grouse Fort] in Icy Straits, under three chiefs: Cadasiktc, ikettitc, and YEnucAtik. Four canoes were lost at the entrance to Lituya Bay, and the first chief was drowned. [Is this the episode which was supposed to have led to the abandonment of Gusex?] While the survivors were still mourning, two ships entered the bay. The Indians thought they were two great birds with white wings, perhaps Raven himself, and fled to the woods. After a time they came back to the shore and looked through tubes of rolled up skunk cabbage leaves, like telescopes, for if they looked directly at Raven they might turn to stone. When the sails were made fast, they thought the birds folded their wings and they imagined they saw a flock of crows fly up from the ships, so they ran back into the woods again. One family of warriors dressed in armor and helmets, and took their copper knives, bows and arrows, and launched a canoe. They were so frightened when thunder and smoke came from the ship that their canoe overturned and they scrambled ashore. Then a nearly blind old man said his life was behind him, and that he would see if Raven really turned men to stone. He dressed in sea-otter furs, and induced two of his slaves to paddle him to the ship. When he got on board his eyesight was so poor that he mistook the sailors for crows, and threw away the rice that was offered him, thinking it was worms. He traded his fur coat for a tin pan and returned to shore laden with gifts of food. The people were surprised to see him alive, smelled him to make sure of his identity [that he had not been transformed into a Land Otter Man?], and refused to eat the food he had brought. The old man finally decided that it must be ships and people, so the Indians visited the ships and traded their furs. Then the White men lost two boats at the mouth of the inlet and many were drowned. The Defeat of the Russians Although additional details were obtained about the expulsion of the Russians from Yakutat, the most complete account remains that told by Harry K. Bremner (pp. 233-234). He also provided additional information about the provocations which led to the attack on the Russian fort, RUSSIAN PROVOCATIONS I believe the Indian story about the war with the Russians. The Russians said they wanted to buy some land at Yakutat. The Russian king, Lanista, said they would pay later. They promised guns, ammunition, ax to chop wood?-things the Indians wanted. But they never paid. They just got the land. The Yakutat chief let the Russians keep the land because he thought they would pay. [He was pre- sumably the KwacKqwan chief, Ya^odaqet.] They had a watchman?or rather, sentries, like the 260 SMITHSONIAN CONTRIBUTIONS TO ANTHROPOLOGY VOLUME 7 Army?at the rapids in Ankau where Bill Hall lives [on Tawah or T'awal Creek, between Aka and Rocky Lakes (Harrington MS.)]. They searched every canoe that went through. They took the children?little ones like this [the narrator gestured to two little boys, 8 and 12, who had come in and were listening]. They took the women. They took the women inside the fort, made them slime fish for them in their place. Then they let them go back to their husbands (after 9 months?). The men didn't like that. They told the people they were sending the children away to school. A native woman was married to the captain of the Russian ship. Her name was Xosal-tia [a Kwackqwan and Tl'uknaxAdi name]. She told the people the children didn't go to school. They were taken away to be slaves?["To Siberia," explained the narrator's wife]. Another thing the Russians did was to put a gate across the creek, way up [on T'awal Creek, above the Ankau lagoons]. The people had to portage their canoes way through the woods. The only time the Russians opened the gate was when the chief came by. [The gate apparently prevented the fish from going up to spawn in the lakes.] Tanu? said they would all starve together because the fish couldn't go up past the gate. The next was when an Indian doctor died and they were going to bury him. In those days they didn't bury them in the ground. They put them in a box up high on four posts. They always painted and carved the box. A man found an old skiff up the bay?all broken up. It was made with copper nails and he took the nails to make that grave box. The Russians said he stole them and were going to kill him. This man was Tanu?. [The informant did not know how the doctor was related to him, see p. 234.] So he started a war on the Russians [February 14, 1954]. [Referring to the History of Yakutat, p. 235:] I stopped when Tanui take the land back from the Russians. I told that story already, how they took the land away from the Russians, and I told you why. [He summed up the grievances: Failure to pay for the land; taking the children for slaves; stealing the Indians' wives; threatening death for the alleged theft of the coffin nails; and putting a gate across T'awal Creek.] That's all I think?all the troubles. [After counting the five points]?-There's one more, I think. When they were going to give that land, the Russians promised to trade guns, ammunition, powder, and the ax they were going to use for wood?things like that. But they don't. They don't sell no guns, ammunition to the Indians, knives, anything. They broke their promise. [May 2, 1954.] FURTHER DETAILS OF THE RUSSIAN DEFEAT Tanui was Tlaxayik-Teqwedi. Very few KwacB:qwan helped in the war. That was because the Kwackqwan chief didn't tell them to fight. He didn't want to make war on the Russians. [This was not further explained.] There was a watchman at the point. He lived in a cabin by himself. They forgot about him when they killed the other Russians. He used to watch the light. Every night he hoisted a lantern on the tree, in case a ship came in. He got away. He ran down to the beach. He saw a Russian ship. He made some kind of a signal and they took him on board. He gave the word how the Russians were all killed. Another watchman on Over [Orphir] Creek was married to a native girl. He escaped too. When word came the Russians were all killed, he grabbed his little teakettle and ran away in the woods. Nobody knows what happened to him. . . . Nobody knows what happened. The Russians make a different story?that Yakutat people were savages. But I know they weren't, because they believe in Dog Heaven [see p. 771]- [February 14, 1954.] THE DEFEAT OF THE RUSSIANS [The following details were obtained from George Johnson, a Tcicqedi informant who calls himself Citlwikw, perhaps the Eyak pronunciation of LucwAq. (June 9, 1952.)] Cftlwlkw was a brave man. He built 'Eagle Fort,' Qutcgalaq glaca'l [the Eyak name], up the Situk River. He was a L'u^edi man. Tanu? was with him. He was Teqwedi. He killed the Russians. The Russians treat the native people pretty rough. They used to fish at Ankau. The Russians closed the gate, so the natives couldn't go in there. Every so often they would tell the native chief to go in. They made the natives work all day long without pay. The Russian had a handmade brass snuffbox. The natives had a dagger, made out of iron from driftwood. The two strong men went in the water in winter time, and got tough. They kill them off. They are lucky. All the Russians were after fish with a rowboat. Only one man was left splitting wood. The two men came. One made a mo- tion?"I'll split it for you." The Russian sat down and let him have an ax. The other man went to ask for snuff. The natives agreed to chop his head off while the other killed the headman. He tried to stab him in the heart. The native stabbed the brass snuffbox by mistake. The native made a noise with his feet. That was the signal. The other men ran up and they killed him. So they killed the two. They got the fire on the camp. They used spruce IN THREE PARTS MYTH, LEGEND, AND MEMORY 261 pitch. They got that lady. They took guns, clothes, powder, lead?took them away. Then they set the Rus- sian camp on fire. Two boats came back from fishing. They killed them all with the guns. Only two men ran away in the woods. In the fall, the Russians were going to come back. But they found the camp burned; they all went away. [In the spring of 1940, the informant took Harrington up T'awal Creek, and gave him further information, although he evidently did not know exactly where the gate had been.] The Russian's fort, 'Annuucii nuuwuu, was built of spruce poles, sharpened at the top and high?so a person could not climb over . . . . [In their garden, on the point near William Milton's smokehouse, the in- formant and his wife had dug up] many objects of iron, and also several spruce poles, 4 inches in diameter, and sharpened at one end. The gate was called kAnnaaxxAn kAxxaadii, 'the fence's door.' You could walk around, but couldn't go around with a boat. That's the only place you can't go through there. The Russians wanted all the fish for theirselves . . . The Russians were here. They failed to conquer the natives here . . . . The Russian return to Sitka was the permanent end of the Tlingit nation. MEMENTOES OF THE RUSSIANS After the defeat of the Russians, a limestone rock was carved to represent the Bear, presumbably the crest associated with Tanu? and his sib. This was somewhere on T'awal Creek, although the exact location was not known to Harrington's informants. It was found in 1948 and taken to Yakutat, where we saw and photo- graphed it (de Laguna et al., 1964, pi. 3, b). We were not able to discover exactly where it had been originally. It has since disappeared. According to Harrington, Peter Lawrence at one time said that "the face on the bear stone at Ankau is natural, they make'm eyes better. Yesterday he said that after the Russians had been murdered [in] Ankau, and the Ankau Mouth again was in possession of the Yakutat Indians, they made or fixed up a bear there, a stone totem of the Brown Bear phratry, looking down upon the Ankau Mouth to symbolize guarding it and to show that Indians were now in possession of it." When Harrington tramped up T'awal Creek to Bill Hall's cabin, he saw a boulder, 8% feet long and 4 feet high, that suggested a profile. At this point the "gate stream" was only one yard wide. "GJ a week later says this rock might be the bear, might look more like a bear at high water." However, this was evidently not the petroglyph. A number of things taken from the Russians were or still are treasured as heirlooms by the Yakutat people. One of these was a Russian cannon, kept by Jack Ellis, the Tl'uknaxAdi leader who died in 1952. It was damaged by too large a charge of powder when fired on New Year's Day, 1949. The other cannon was taken to Gusex, and may either be there or near the old cannery at Dry Bay. Chief George, the KwacS:qwan chief who died about 1903, had a picture of Stanislas, or "Shawnista," which was later stolen from the ANB Hall at Yakutat. The same chief also owned a small copper teakettle which had belonged to Stanislas. The handle was originally twice as wide, but was cut down to make sea-otter harpoon arrow- heads. Chief George received two silver fox furs for each piece that he cut off. This kettle is carefully pre- served by its present owner, Harry K. Bremner. Jim Kardeetoo was said to have had the famous snuffbox with the dent in it made by the knife of Tanui. He also had a Russian sword-cane (pi. 144), but sold that to the Reverend Axelson. It was also said to have belonged to Stanislas. War Between the Tl'uknaAxdi and the Tla say ik-Teq wedi After the expulsion of the Russians, the Tlaxayik- Teqwedi built Eagle Fort about halfway up the Situk River, which was equipped, according to some accounts, with the door taken from the Russian fort. They also had a fortified sealing camp in Disenchantment Bay, at the mouth of the second stream above Point La- touche, at a place now known as WuganiyE. At this time they had evidently intermarried to some extent with the Tl'uknaxAdi from southeastern Alaska who had established themselves at Gusex and in the Dry Bay area. The Tl'uknaxAdi, assisted by other Raven sibs, among which we suspect were the KwacKqwan, TlukwaxAdi, and perhaps others such as the Koskedi, XafkA'ayi, and DAqdentan (if indeed, these were at that time separate groups), finally defeated the TlAxayik-Teqwedi so decisively that the latter disappeared as a distinct sib at Yakutat. This war would appear to be simply a continuation of earlier fights between the Tlaxayik- Teqwedi and the Dry Bay TmkwaxAdi. Before this, the Tlaxayik-Teqwedi or L'u?edi had fought with the Bear House lineage of the Teqwedi from southeastern Alaska, and had killed many of the latter. This is said to be still a bitter memory, because they were not able to even the score. Did the Ravens prevent their revenge by killing their enemies? In any case, after the extermination of the L'u^edi the Bear House Teqwedi held securely the lands on the Situk and Lost Rivers. 262 SMITHSONIAN CONTRIBUTIONS TO ANTHROPOLOGY VOLUME 7 We may begin our account with that given by Frank Italio, for although somewhat obscure and at varience with most of the others, it serves to suggest that the trouble had been brewing for a long time. TROUBLE BETWEEN THE DRY BAY PEOPLE AND THE YAKUT AT TEQWEDI [Told by Frank Italio, August 29, 1952, Minnie Johnson interpreting. This has been somewhat edited to make it clearer.] The TlukwaxAdi were the first people established in Dry Bay, and they get into some kind of misunderstand- ing with the Teqwedi here [presumably the Tiaxayik- Teqwedi is meant]. All the Teqwedi were out in sealing camp and just one old man, Qadjak", was left at Knight Island. He was so old that he can't see. All the Teqwedi but him were at sealing camp, but they left that old man there. And the TlukwaxAdi come from Dry Bay and abuse him, and do all kind of dirty tricks to that old man who can't defend himself. And so they get into all kinds of a war about it. . . . So then they [TlukwaxAdi] build a fort. The biggest fort Frank Italio ever see. The foundations of it are in Dry Bay. They even had tribal houses inside the fort. The TlukwaxAdi built a village and had that fort built all around it. They even had it way up in the mountains. It was called Cixa'a nuwu, "Eddy Fort." [See pp. 83, 89.] Then everything was settled and they had peace between the TlukwaxAdi and the Teqwedi. Then they [the former] settled at a place called DinEtki-'an "It Wriggles Like Jelly" [referring to the shifting sands]. Frank Italio wonders why no trees or greens grow there at all, up to this time. . . . [For further discussion of this site, see p. 83.] So they settled back in that valley after everything was settled with the Teqwedi. The Teqwedi just died off or moved away eventually. [The informant explained that at the time of this trouble, there were not many CAnkuqedi among the TlukwAXAdi, just a few married-in CAnkuqedi women and their children.] [Our questions prompted Frank Italio to give his version of how the Yakutat Teqwedi were defeated by the Tl'uknaxAdi. This was told as a continuation of the above account.] The Yakutat Teqwedi and the Tl'uknaxAdi got mixed up over a slave, you know. They [Tlaxayik-Teqwedi] got that fort built up Situk. They got the Russian fort door for the door of their fort. They took it out of the Russian fort to GudAliexl [see p. 79]. They just look down on the Tanyedaq [Prince of Wales Island] Teqwedi as out- siders, but it's the same Teqwedi. DSxudu'u ['Buys Two at One Time,' referring to slaves or coppers] the head Tl'uknaxAdi, gave his son, Daqusetc [Teqwedi], a dress for his wife, Tsagu-tla (or Tsiida-tla) [Tl'uknaxAdi]. For just one dress, the son was supposed to give him a slave. But he don't seem to show up with it, so that's why De"xudu'u went up to GudAlkexl to see what's wrong, how come he didn't deliver that slave. And he got killed. Four other Tl'uknaxAdi people got killed there. That's why, when LucwAq got into trouble with them, he say he never had an idea a man had sense enough [so little sense] to give away a slave for one dress. That's why Tl'uknaxAdi claim WuganiyE. That Dexudu'u got four sons: Daqusetc, Caka, and Qiy'ds' is the youngest one, ancestor of Cada. [Frank Italio had forgotten the name of the fourth son.] Cada is Kwackqwan. My grandma [the interpreter's] comes from them. She's a "daughter" of one of the sons. WAR BETWEEN THE TL'UKNAXADI AND THE TEQWEDI (FIRST VERSION) [The following account was told by Harry K. Brem- ner, July 11, 1952, who indicated that this was the last war in Yakutat.] Long after the Russians, some Tl'uknaxAdi married into Yakutat. Soon after this, word got all over south- eastern Alaska that the Yakutat people were very rich with things they had taken from the Russians, so seven tribes [unidentified] decided to come up and take it away from them. Before they left, their wives told them: "Bring a brave, 5 or 6 years old, and Yakutat baskets, because they make very nice ones." [The allies of the Tl'uknaxAdi were never identified, although they were all Raven sibs. The following comment was made later.] But long time ago, ever since they had was the last war, Indian to Indian. They had no war unless southeastern Alaska Indians come around and had a war with Tlaxayik-Teqwedi. But Tlaxayik- Teqwedi was a part of Gatyix-Kagwantan, not of southeastern Alaska. This was after the Russians. Galyix-Kagwantan had a war with the Russians. The man who was the brave one was Tanui. Tanu? was the general; LucwAq was his assistant, his second. Before we know about generals and lieutenants, they worked that way. When the Russians took away Tanu?, LucwAq was still left there. And LucwAq have the war with southeast Alaska Indians. Southeast Alaska come over to have a war with the Yakutat for no reason, just for the property they took from the Russians. LucwAq was pretty smart. He move his village halfway to Situk Lake, halfway from the mouth of the Situk River. He have a fort around his village. IN THREE PARTS MYTH, LEGEND, AND MEMORY 263 He won the wax [there], but I shan't venture to say it. We got it here in the village yet. Seven different tribes, all Raven?-we're among them. [This would imply that the Kwacl:qwan had been involved.] [September 2, 1952.] The Teqwedi were living at Teak nu [Eagle Fort] near Situk Lake. The Tl'uknaxAdi went down near Ketchikan to consult a famous doctor who told them they would win. Their own doctor, who was not so highly regarded said they would lose, but he didn't mention it straight out. "If you see the kAt [barbed harpoon head] leave you, you will lose the war. If you see it come to you, you will win the war." The Teqwedi doctor said: "If I am killed first by our own people by mistake, you will win the war. But if I'm not, you will lose." The TJ'uknaxAdi chief was Q'exix. The chief of the Teqwedi was LucwAq, T anus's partner. His nephew was There were four houses in the fort. The people dug tunnels under the floors connecting the houses in preparation for the war. [The houses were in a line, with an entrance into the tunnel from the floor of each house.] The Teqwedi men were all out chopping wood, early in the morning. They knew the enemy were coming but they didn't know the war was on yet. They made a lot of bear traps [deadfalls] to get the enemy. I don't know how they were made, but you stepped on the moss and the log fell. But it snowed [and the traps were useless]. There was a Tl'uknaxAdi man behind each tree, way back. The Teqwedi didn't know it was war already. The old doctor went around to each man, gathering up chips into the fold of his blanket. When he got close to each man, he said in a low voice, "War!" and told him to run back to the fort, carrying a log on his shoidder, when he himself went back. Then he called out in a loud voice: "You're going to chop wood all day. You will cut one, and that one, and that big one there." They used an adz to chop the trees, small trees [about 18 inches in diameter], because they couldn't cut bigger ones. They chopped them all around with ragged cuts. So when he [the doctor] got back to the fort, all the men suddenly ran, carrying logs on their shoulders, so that the butts stuck out like barbs on the fish spear head. The little Tl'uknaxAdi doctor said: "You see that kAt [barbed harpoonhead] leaving you, let's go back now. We will lose." But the brave ones said: "There are so few of them, we can win." They came to the fort. LucwAq told his people: "We're not going to fight." Q'exix called out: "My brothers-in-law, we are going to feed you big blueberries today." They fired shots at them. The people were all in the tunnels. The Tl'uknaxAdi thought they had killed them aU. Before the shooting started, nobody knows why, the old doctor went out of the house and after a while he came back, and by mistake his own people shot him. They took him into the house, and just before he died, he said: "You shot me. That means you're going to win." LucwAq was sleeping in the house. He gave orders not to be waked. His nephew, SAd^n, was in the bath- house. It had a bark roof. One of the Ti'uknaxAdi got on the roof. There was a little hole, and SAdi:n looked up and saw him through the hole and shot and killed him. The wife of LucwAq came and woke him. "Wake up! Your nephew has already killed a man." So LucwAq loaded up his gun with seven bullets. In a war, they name their guns according to their tribe, like Xuts [Bear] Gun, or Kit [Killerwhale] Gun. With one bullet, I think, he killed seven men. The Tl'ukna- xAdi were all on the roofs of the houses, and he killed them all except a few. Then LucwAq said: "No more killing. Let them go home." The enemy stayed for 2 days. They wanted the bodies of the men who were killed in order to cut off their heads to take home. But iucwAq said: "These bodies belong to the eagles. You came here and made trouble." They didn't burn or bury the bodies; they dumped them through a hole in the ice. So many more Tl'uknaxAdi had come up than there were Teqwedi at the fort, but very few went back. They got even later [next year?]. The Tl'uknaxAdi came in big war canoes. The Teqwedi were at the sealing camp in the third valley below Egg Island, called CanAx kusA, 'Narrow Valley.' It's a little place, with rock all around, like a box, and they build a stone fort there, with little holes to shoot through. They always kept their guns there, and they were always practicing. When a man shoots, a woman is behind him. He puts down the empty gun, and picks up another while she reloads the first [explained partly with gestures]. It's just like a repeating rifle. The chief doesn't allow anyone to shoot guns at seals?only use harpoons?so they won't frighten them away. One man was always telling lies. He never told the truth. He was out in a sealing canoe and drifted down near Point Latouche. He saw a man in a tree. He had a white cloth wrapped around his head and he was wrapped in a black blanket. That tree is there yet. It was a dead tree with branches when I first saw it, 264 SMITHSONIAN CONTRIBUTIONS TO ANTHROPOLOGY VOLUME 7 but now only a small stump is left. That man sat in the tree all day. The other man -watched him. Then he paddled quietly back to the fortified camp. He told the chief, LucwAq: "It's war." There was an older man who told the truth. He said: "No. It was an eagle in that tree. I saw it fly away." He explained: "I didn't really see it fly away. I saw an eagle in the tree, and then I saw the eagle circling in the sky, and there was no eagle in the tree." So the people believed him. But LucwAq believed the other man, even though he didn't usually tell the truth. LucwAq was a brave man, and brave men are wise. He said: "SAdin will keep watch tonight. The rest of you can sleep." But his sister, SAdisn's mother, came to him and said: "You always make SAdlsn do everything." So the chief got mad and said: "SAdisn can sleep too. We'll all sleep tonight." They did! . . . The Tl'uknaxAdi came in the night and killed all but -LucwAq. He got away and was climbing a steep mountain, a place they thought nobody could get up. He had bullets in a little packsack, but he dropped it when he almost reached the top of the cliff. They shot him in the leg and he began to fall. He just let himself roll down, and get killed. They shot him till they killed him. He didn't want to live any more, because all his people were dead. WAR BETWEEN THE T L ' T J K N A X A D I AND THE TLAXAYIK- TEQWEDI [This version was dictated on May 2, 1954, because Harry Bremner wished to finish telling the History of Yakutat, and knew that this should be included. He had previously been reluctant to tell it, because he did not wish to arouse any bad feelings, but realized that now there was no one else who could give the full account.] That's where I ended, after that Tanu?. That's where I ended, 1805, when they chased the Russians out. I told you that already, about Tanu?, after they had a trouble with the Russians. . . . Tanu? is Tlaxayik-Teqwedi. It's a tribe's name. But they are a part of Qalyix-Kagwantan, and not south- east Alaska Teqwedi. Not a big tribe. . . . Tanu?, his brother or his cousin, anyway, his name is LucwAq. He's just like Tanui?another brave. And LucwAq's sister is named T'ongwa. That must be a Russian name [Tanya?], don't sound like Indian. And her son is named SAde"n. That's tucwAq's nephew. And after they had trouble with the Russians, they move up at Situk River, halfway. Just more than half- way to the lake. They place where they move up is GudAlkexl. That's a river. They still call it NutA 'iti?they make a fort there. It's gone now, nothing left. It's named for the way it used to be. Just grass now. They built that fort after the Russian trouble be- cause they expect the Russians are going to come back. That's why they move so far from the water. But the other people, Teqwedi, the ones from southeastern Alaska, they stay in their own village, down there, Diyaguna'Et, and so the Situk Teqwedi have just small camps. And so the Kwackqwan, they stay in their own village, because they're not in a war with the Russians. . . . I mean they don't fight with the Russians. I think it's no good to call it a war. The nu [fort], they built it there. They call it Eagle nu, Teak nu. FIGURE 6.?Eagle Fort, sketched by Harry K. Bremner. There were posts all around the village. The story said there's only three houses inside the wall. And they make a tunnel under the houses. It come up into this house, and this one. Well prepared for the war. . . . I don't know why they had a war. They [Tl'uknaxAdi] wanted some property they had gotten from the Rus- sians. That's why. They wanted to get it from that small tribe. I don't know for sure, but that's the way they're telling it. . . . They died off long ago that people?just a small group. They came from QaliyAX. They settled down here long time ago. That's the ones they're calling Tlaxayik-Teqwedi. . . . They came over here in wintertime. It was winter- time the Tl'uknaxAdi came. . . . All the way from southeast Alaska. And they were living there [Dry Bay], some of the Tl'uknaxAdi, some at the old village in Akwe. I'm not sure where they came from. Tl'uknaxAdi had an Indian doctor. And he's not very strong. That's what his own Tl'uknaxAdi people believe, that he's not a strong doctor. And that Tl'uk- naxAdi Indian doctor told his people, "You're going to lose the war. You're going to be defeated." And the Tl'uknaxAdi went down to the Dekina. IN THREE PARTS MYTH, LEGEND, AND MEMORY 265 It's almost the same as the Haida. "Way outside people," it's Klawak people. They got two doctors from there. I don't know how they got them. And those two doctors said: "You're going to win the war." But still the Tl'uknaxAdi doctor said: "You're going to lose." And his own people don't believe him. They believe those two doctors from Dekina. They were coming in wintertime. On the way, that Tl'uknaxAdi doctor with them, this Tl'uknaxAdi tell his people: "If the spearhead get away from you, you're defeated; but if you catch the spearhead you win the war." It's like this: [The narrator made the following sketch, fig. 7] FIGURE 7.?Spearhead and log, sketched by Harry K. Bremner. And that's the way they used to cut the wood? not too big?cut one block. They didn't cut clear through, just leave them like that, so long that two men can carry it. That's the way the Indian doctor see it. It looks like a spearhead to him. That Indian doctor, he can't explain without interpreter, and that's why he said: "If spearhead gets away from you, you've lost the war; but if you catch it, you win the war." "KAt nasq qi. . . ." 'Spearhead moving-away. . . .' The Tl'uknaxAdi were right behind that village already, waiting in the woods where the people were cutting wood. It was wintertime. That's the time Tl'uknaxAdi were going to get them. But the Tlaxayik-Teqwedi Indian doctor tells his own people, "If you people kill me before anything happens, you win the war. If you don't kill me, you're defeated, you lost the war." That's what that Tlaxayik- Teqwedi doctor said. So they already know that Tl'uknaxAdi war is going to come. So this door, the door of that fort, they open it way little bit, like this [fig. 6]. Just enough to go in sideways. It was on hinges. They open it just about that much. That's the way they did it when they heard the war was going to come. They don't close the door. I don't know why. It's a cold winter. So every morning they pour water in the doorway. Real cold?early in the morning?midnight, when it's real cold. And they keep 205-517?72?TOL VII, pt. 1 19 doing it until the ice is so high. They're raising it up all the time. I don't know how high. The ice made a steep slope into the house. The headman, he's an old man. So every morning they went out to the woods. It's Tlingit law. Every morning?can't miss a day. To get wood. They use Russian axes to cut wood with it. And early morning, the people went out to the woods. And this old man, the head of the tribe, LucwAq, he went up there where they're cutting wood. Everybody is cutting wood with the ax. Soon as he get up to where they go in the woods he saw a man?just the head? just come out from behind a tree way back in the woods. That's all he see. Soon as he see it, he speak out loud to the people. He said real loud: "You people going to cut wood all day today. Bad weather coming." And he said: "Some more people are going to come out to help you, from the village." He had a blanket around him, And he came right close to where they're cutting wood. He just pick up his blanket like this: [gesture of picking up chips and putting them into the fold of the blanket]. And he pick up the wood, and whispered to each person: "War!" in a low voice. "As soon as I walk back, you jump off the log and run back to the fort." But in a loud voice he points and says: "You're going to cut that tree down." He pointed to the one where he saw that man. "You're going to cut that one, and that one, and that one. Bring all the wood today," he said. And as soon as that old man walk away, about halfway to the fort, those people cutting wood jump off that log and they run. Those logs they were cutting like this [fig. 7], they're carrying on their shoulders, two men on each. They run with it. And that time that Tl'uknaxAdi Indian doctor he point to that wood, like a spearhead. He said: "You see that wood. That's a spearhead. It got away from you, like I told you. It got away from you, you've been defeated. Turn back," he said. "Turn back!" But Tl'uknaxAdi still don't believe it. And everybody run back into their fort. And every- body gets ready to protect themselves; everybody has a gun. But LucwAq said not to start a war yet, not to shoot, not do anything. Just about that time they saw a man coming through their door where they pour the water, and some of the men shoot him. Dead shot. That's their own Indian doctor. The last word he said: "You kill me. My own people kill me. My wish is come true. You're going to win the war." That's all. He's dead. So they come. They kept coming all the time. They 266 SMITHSONIAN CONTRIBUTIONS TO ANTHROPOLOGY VOLUME 7 use the guns, they don't use arroAvs, southeast Alaska. They're already on top of the fort all around. They see down into the fort. And no fire inside the fort. That's LucwAq's orders?No fighting back. They're all under- ground [in the tunnel]. And LucwAq is in the ground where they have a steam bath. He sleeps. He don't like the war. And SAden, he's the first man to kill a man with a spear. The man was on the roof when he heard it? bark roof, not wood, bark. It was the roof of the steam bath house. The man make a little hole, that's how he can see. He killed him. And that LucwAq's wife tell her husband: "SAden kill a man!" Then LucwAq said: "All right. That's a war now. SAden kill a man. That's a war." He thought that people would turn back; he didn't want war. So they fight. They kill all those Tl'uknaxAdi inside the fort. Some are on the roof already, some of the Tl'uknaxAdi. The Ti'uknaxAdi think they killed all the Teqwedi already. They made a mistake. They were all in the ground. The headman on the Tl'uknaxAdi side, his name is Qexfx [or <^exix]. He's the one talked to LucwAq because he's a brave man, he's a war leader?not a chief, but a war leader. Every time they're going to start shooting from the top, the Tl'uknaxAdi called to LucwAq, "I'm going to feed you with small blueberries." He's shooting with small shots, I think. And that LucwAq, just before he fired, he tell his people to go around and fight, he said a word to (^ exfx: "I'm going to feed you with the big blueberries now," he said. And he started shooting. They shot some more. Then they ask that Tl'uknaxAdi leader: "Where did you get those blueberries from? What war you win it?" It's got to be taken through a war, the things you're going to take on it [or talk about?]. "Which war you get it from? I get mine from a double fort, my big blueberries." You know where they got it from the Russians. "I get mine from a double fort. I'm going to feed you with it now." They don't kill any more. They just killed the Tl'uknaxAdi inside the fort. He told his people: "Do not kill any." All his men go up on top of the fort, and he told them not to kill any more. That people were across the river, and Tl'uknaxAdi on this side. And Tl'uknaxAdi talk to LucwAq. They want to get those bodies. They're talking to each other But LucwAq said "No." So they went. After they went, I don't know how long afterwards, some of the people said: "Why don't we kill them all? They're going to come back and clean us up." So they went and followed to catch up. They stop at Diyaguna'Et, LucwAq's people. Tl'uknaxAdi's not there. They already went. Keep on going on snowshoes. And the Diyaguna'Et people said: "You come too late, they're gone a long time ago." But the Diya- guna'Et-Teqwedi were helping Ti'uknaxAdi. But Tanu? was a prisoner already. And in the spring- time and the summer afterwards they went up to sealing camp, LucwAq's people. And one of the headmen said: "Stay on the cross side" [i.e., west side]. But LucwAq chooses that narrow valley, that small one, WuganiyE. That's why he chose it, it's narrow. He likes it, he chooses it. [Across Disenchantment Bay], it's just like a hilltop. It's steep. That headman wants to stay on the top so they can see a long ways, and it takes a long time to climb up. The headman chose it. But no, he choose that place, LucwAq. And he said that valley, where it's narrow, he's going to put rocks there so they can shoot from behind. And that's what they did. They built a wall of rocks across the mouth of the valley?-nu?to shoot from behind. [But no rocks were put on the back side.] And this headman was living on that cross side. Very few people, not much went over there. LucwAq didn't stay there. It was called Qel'-clki-'an, something like "village on top of the rock" ['Cliff-Top Village', at or near Bancas Point]. LucwAq stayed on this side. That's where they stay for seal hunting. They had a watchman all the time, lookout man. They stay there all summer for seal hunting. And once one man reported he saw an eagle right on top of Point Latouche?just one tree on top there, the eagle sitting there. But instead of the eagle flew away, it climbed down the tree. But this man here, all his tribe knows it, he never tell anything truth; he always tells lies. So they won't believe him. He come in, and all excited, tell the story. He says it's a war, but still they don't believe him. When the last man come from the ice, from seal hunting, up to that camp, they tell him the story, what that man said. He said: "I see that eagle. It flew away from that tree across the bay." So that time they never really believe that man. But that man tell the real true story that time. He saw the man [in the tree]. Xadi'ik? 'liar.' But that time he was telling the truth. So that night just before bedtime, LucwAq told his nephew, SAden, "You're going to be on watch tonight." You see, that's the way they do. Tie them up like this[?]. The guns are there already. Fire it and hand it back to the women. They train the women how to load a gun for war. They had three, four guns ready for each man. They get so many guns from those Russians. That's the way the guns are, all ready for war. They're going to shoot from . . . each person had so many guns, all loaded. And LucwAq tell his nephew, "You're going to watch out tonight." IN THREE PARTS MYTH, LEGEND, AND MEMORY 267 And that time, as soon as LucwAq said it, his sister, Dongwa, SAdeVs mother, said: "Not only is SAde"n going to die." She don't say it out loud, just whisper? because she don't want her son hard punished like that. "Not only SAde"n is going to die," just whisper. But LucwAq heard right away?sharp ears. And tucwAq said: "All right, everybody's going to sleep." and LucwAq called him. He said: "SAdSn, you're not going to be on watch. Go to sleep. I'm not the only one going to die, too." It's still that way today, everybody says it's too bad, that woman. . . . She don't say a word [shouldn't have spoken?]. That brave man should never listen to that woman. She's his sister. And that night they came. They caught him when he was asleep. LucwAq's people never fight back. They caught them in then" sleep. And LucwAq, he got away. I don't know how he got away. Tl'uknaxAdi don't find his body in there. So they look for him. They find him on the cliffs. It's a pretty steep cliff there; nothing can climb up. So they find him; chase him up the mountain. He can't go no more. He can't go no place. So Tl'uknaxAdi got him. He lost his ammunition when he's climbing; he drop it. He's got his gun, he's got his powder. But they use lead for bullets. The whole sack, it drop. It slip out of his hand. So he don't fight back. First they shoot him in the leg, and he start to fall. That's all the words he said: "TFuknaxAdi," he said, "I'm going to be a yek [shaman's spirit] against you." That's all the word he said, that's all. And it came true. It [the spirit] came to TEK-'IC [a Teqwedi shaman, see pp. 671, 715-719]. And that yek, they call him LucwAq yAhayi. YAhayi?"my shadow," same thing as "reflection," almost the same as "spirit." [see Afterlife, p. 766]. [TeK-'ic was the last of a long line of doctors who had that yek.] So that's all I can tell. All the bad ones I don't want to tell. I just try to make it good. I didn't take much off, when they were talking to each other? those mean words, [i.e., the exchange of insults at Eagle Fort]. LucwAq means "no eyes." He doesn't like it when they call him "no eyes," so [-?-] gave him another name, a mean one. [Those who helped the Tl'uknaxAdi in the war seem to have been] TukwaxAdi, ^aUkA'ayi?all Tl'uknaxAdi anyway. The names are different. And after that LucwAq was defeated, Tl'uknaxAdi said: "Nobody's going to touch that body. Nobody touch those bones. It's going to stay there forever." So they've been there for a long time, for many years. Nobody touched it. They take it down later, Teqwedi did. Xuts hittan Teqwedi took the bones. Tl'uknaxAdi said: "If anybody touch those bones, there's going to be a war!" But Xuts hittan Teqwedi get real strong, they want a war. They bring it down. They want a war. Some reason, I don't know why. They get ready for war; they bring it down; they bury it. I don't know where; took it to Khantaak. [But they didn't fight.] They sent their brother-in- law, nakani, Tl'uknaxAdi?sent him up to bring the bones down. And one Kwackqwan little boy?like Tom Coxe, we used to call him [T'aw kax, 'Chicken Feathers,' only child of the shaman, Tek-'ic; born about 1860 died after 1921]. He went along with Abraham, Olaf's father, and that's all I know about that. [Abraham, XAnanek, a Tl'uknaxAdi man, was much older.] That was a long time ago. People were still living on Khantaak. No White men here yet. A Tl/UKNAXADI VERSION OF THE WAE [The following account was given by Annie George, a Tl'uknaxAdi woman. (August 7, 1952.)] The Tl'uknaxAdi and the Teqwedi had a war in Situk. And those Tl'uknaxAdi were pretty nearly all killed in Situk. It was up the river; it was at a place called GudAlkexl. This was up the Situk where they had the war. I don't know which Teqwedi it is they are fight- ing. . . . They fight over a woman in the first place. . . . In that war the Teqwedi use Russian stuff and the Tl'uknaxAdi at Dry Bay didn't have any. The Tl'ukna- xAdi can't get in the place where the Teqwedi are hiding themselves, because the Teqwedi use a door? just like that [pointing to the door of the house]. That's why the Tl'uknaxAdi got beat up. So then they went to the sealing camp and make it even. The Tl'uknaxAdi all get killed. They didn't kill anybody. It's just them that got killed. Some went back to Dry Bay. In the wintertime, when it's coming, they get ready to have a war again with the Teqwedi. And they send their wives to Yakutat to say that the Tl'uknaxAdi all went to Sitka. Those women went to WuganiyE, a sealing camp. They just try to make those people believe them. That's why they send their wives over there. . . . They stay in WuganiyE, all those people [Teqwedi]. Pretty soon the people try to put up things for winter. They don't have anything to eat in war- time. They don't put up seal oil or dry fish. They just watch and think the Tl'uknaxAdi are going to come and they're going to have a war again. The Teqwedi went up the Situk and come out on this side of GAnAWAs [Knight Island]. And they take their 268 SMITHSONIAN CONTRIBUTIONS TO ANTHROPOLOGY VOLUME 7 canoes out there and went up to sealing camp. They're going to put up seal grease for the wintertime. . . . Pretty soon they [the Tl'uknaxAdi war party] come up there. They go way outside on the other side [of Yakutat Bay] and then around and down. . . . And that headman at the sealing camp told one man to watch out. His name was SAdEn. He told him to watch out that night. . . . SAdEn's mother say that?"Oh, that SAdEn. He's not the only one going to die," she said. That's why the headman?he is called tucwAq?he said: "That's O.K. You can all go to bed if you want." That's why they don't see anything. Before [earlier] that day, they see an eagle on the point. There's a point, the first one they call 'Anadlyac [Point Latouche]. They saw an eagle on this point. That eagle sees where those people stay. . . . . . . When they see that "eagle," he's got a big hat on, that man. They always make a basket on their head, and they put cloth over it, white cloth. It looks like an eagle. Then after the man went down from there, an eagle went right up in the sky from the tree. That 'ixt' [shaman] made the real eagle take his place when the man came down. Pretty soon that eagle fly away amd go right down the other side [of the bay?] That's why the people [Teqwedi] think it's really an eagle. They believe and they don't watch good for the enemy. They think nothing's going to happen. And they [Tl'uknaxAdi] go on the other side in the canoe, way up, and then come down the other way. Then the Tl'uknaxAdi did the same thing to those people. They kill all the Teqwedi, Nobody saved. [The informant did not know what happened to the wives of the Teqwedi, who were presumably Tl'uknaxAdi, and perhaps at the camp at the time of the massacre. She thinks they may have come down "this way. Maybe they went over to Nessudat."] [The following remarks were made by another Tl'uknaxAdi woman, Minnie Johnson, on August 25, 1952.] My mother and daddy showed me [the site of the fort at WuganiyE]. The logs still show. The Tl'uknaxAdi got behind them to see what the people are going to do?the Tcicqedi, I hear. That's why the Tl'uknaxAdi come and fight? because Tcicqedi get away with one of their most principal men among the Tl'uknaxAdi. He was Dexudu'u, my grandmother's granddaddy. So the Tl'uknaxAdi claim they take the place instead of [to avenge] Dexudu'u. He's the headman. His name means "two slaves are bought." The Tl'uknaxAdi killed them all, and they didn't even expect anybody. That little tree at 'Anadiyac [Point Latouche]?That LucwAq got wounded and climb all up there when one leg is shot off. He won't give in till they kill him. He's the only one who's alive. He must be the chief. They took the whole place for that?-to even up the death of Dexudu'u. That's why, WuganiyE, 'burned up,' they call it, because they are all killed off . . . . . . He went up with one leg and one eye. That's why they call him LucwAq, "one eye." 'AkEdAl keep shooting at him till he reach that tree. He go ahead and shoot, and they kill him. [In the spring of 1940, Jack Ellis took Harrington on a long trip up Yakutat Bay, into Disenchantment Bay and Russell Fiord, and evidently told him about this war as they passed by the sealing camps above Point Latouche. Thus, Harrington's notes record that Wuukkaanryye', or Khi'KuullAyyaa in Eyak:] "means where they (killed the people and) burned the fort?for they always used to burn the fort after killing the people. At first there was no Tlingit language spoken up here at head of Yakutat Bay, only 'Yakutat' [Eyak] language. But after the Tlingit discovered the place, then they came conquering, working westward, and that is why many of the place names up this way are only Tlingit names. . . . The Yakutat (Cordova- speaking) people had had a fight on the Si-tAk River and came through the mountains to here and were camped at this canyon, when in the night a big war canoe of Tlingit-speaking Indians sneaked right around the point and attacked them, and massacre them. This was the last battle of the Yakutat people and was only ca. 100 years ago." [The following was told to me by Helen Bremner on a boat trip to Haenke Island (June 11, 1952). She has seen the tree on Point Latouche, so knows this is a true story. We looked for it as we passed the point, but not even the stump was left on the bare slope.] There was a fort on the east side of Yakutat Bay, called WuganiyE. The Tlaxayik-Teqwedi, really Kag- wantan, built it because they were afraid of their enemies, the L'u?edi [sic]. One of the men who lived in the fort was a liar named SAdEn. He told so many lies no one would believe him. Once he went out seal hunting in a skin kayak, all dressed in white, and came down through the ice towards Point Latouche. There is a dead tree right on the point. It is so old that it is all broken down, but you can still see it. He saw an eagle on top of the tree. While he watched, he saw the eagle climb down the tree. Eagles can't do that, so he knew it was a man, an enemy. He sneaked up through the ice and saw it was a man. Then he paddled back to the fort and told the chief IN THREE PARTS MYTH, LEGEND, AND MEMORY 269 what he had seen. But the people had heard him tell so many lies that they didn't believe him. The chief told him he could keep watch; the rest were going to sleep. The man's mother got mad because she said they were always picking on her son, so the chief said he could sleep too. That night the L'u^edi [sic] attacked and killed them. [The following information was given by a Kag- wantan informant, Emma Ellis, on March 27, 1954.] The L'u^edi stayed up there at that sealing camp, WugAniyE or Wuganiye. They stayed at Situk, too. They were Eagle. They had a war. . . . They had a fort at Wuganiye. . . . They killed them off over there, you know. . . . That's why they call it Wuganiye. Just one woman, I guess, they saved, and one boy. I forget the woman's name. . . . That big man, that LucwAq, that big chief [was], xan kunay?, 'general.' The boy who was saved was SAdin?-that's his nephew. He got saved. He hid some place. He thinks he's sitting like that [upright, arms folded? i.e. on guard?], then he's sleeping. When he hears some- thing he takes the boat paddle. That's all he takes. Then he says, "Oh dear!" he says, when he sees that paddle. It's his gun in that fort yet. . . . He thinks his paddle is his gun. He's missing. Then they say he cry out, that's the way they say. The opposite people say he cry out. "Oh dear!" he says. . . . I don't know what word he used. It's Yitqwan word he's using [Eyak]?-just like "Oh dear!" he says, when he sees it's his paddle he got in his hand. He thinks it's his gun he grab instead of that. I think they were fighting Ti'uknaxAdi, I guess. And that's why Ti'uknaxAdi wins that Situk. They win it. Used to belong to L'u^edi. Now Tl'uknaxAdi- yAtxi [i.e., Teqwedi, the children of Ti'uknaxAdi] own Situk. [The following comments were made by a Kag- wantan man, John Ellis, on two different occasions.] There's one tribe that's not existing any more? L'u^edi. . . . L'uiyedi means 'Muddy Water People.' The reason why they call them L'uxyedi is that at the time the head of this bay was Situk Lake. Situk River was all muddy. They used to be someplace along there. There's a reason why they killed them out. They killed them out and later somebody else owned Situk. They killed them off by war. I don't know if L'uxyedi were Eagle or Raven. [He dows not know the cause for the war, because he does not like to listen to war stories. Furthermore, these are not often told, because they usually lead to further wars for revenge.] There's a reason why they killed them, though. The trouble even went to those Silver Salmon tribes, too. And that's why this Silver Salmon tribe [Ti'uknaxAdi] claims Situk, too, but the other people don't recognize it that way. What they claim is, Silver Salmon people they don't like war, so that story is that they pick up different tribe[s?] and give them tmna-yAtxi [small coppers]. They give them coppers to [take] revenge for them, because they don't want to fight. That tmna- yAtxi, I don't know just how big it is. . . . I don't know who the Silver Salmon tribe gave coppers to. Some tribe they picked up and paid them tmna-yAtxi to fight for them. That's when they killed all those [L'uxyedi]. But anyway, they didn't stay out. It came on them, too. That's when the L'uxyedi were all killed out. [It is not clear what happened to the Silver Salmon tribe.] [March 25, 1954.] [The informant had been speaking about peace cere- monies.] There was one on this Nukw [Little Fort Island near Knight Island].... I think it's the same story about this Ti'uknaxAdi Tribe, when they had a war up in WuganiyE. . . . These women, Tl'uk cawu [Ti'uknaxAdi women] they were playing there, picking berries, or something. They stopped at that little island. This woman was just playing around, dancing like that peace [ceremony], and she was that kuwakan [peace hostage-ambassador]. And when they find out, they just make it real. . . . That was way after the war. . . . She's Ti'uknaxAdi. . . . That woman's name was T6ac-tla, 'Branches Mother,' [tcac(?)-tla]. [No further details were known. May 9, 1954.] [Swanton in 1904 (1909, Tale 27, pp. 68-69) recorded from a Box House Kagwantan man of Sitka what appear to be references to these same events. They are included hi a series of unrelated incidents connected with the Alsek people. The sections which interest us may be summarized as follows:] The Alsek people used to go to a small river farther north to get slaves. There they killed a rich man, so the people, L!uq!oedl [L'u^edi], built a fort, which Lucwa'k equipped with a strong door that would admit only one man at a time. On their next trip, many of the Dry Bay people were clubbed to death when they tried to enter. Lucwa'k then renamed his fort Eagle Fort, and at first refused to let the survivors take the corpses of their dead comrades, saying: "The eagle's claws are fastened in the dead bodies, and he cannot let go of them." Later he threw the bodies out. When the bodies were taken back to Alsek, all the female slaves which the mourners had taken on previous expeditions were thrown on the funeral pyre. Then all the "Eagle people" returned to the fort, killed nearly all the defenders, including Lucwa'k, and burned the 270 SMITHSONIAN CONTRIBUTIONS TO ANTHROPOLOGY VOLUME 7 fort. Lucwa'k's body was not cremated, because a brave man does not like to sit close to the fire in the Ghost's home. [Are these "Eagle people" the Kagwantan living at Dry Bay?] On another occasion, when visiting at a certain place, the Alsek people were killed coming out of a sweat house. One of the victims was Slta'n, a man re- lated to the Athabaskans. The Alsek people finally evened the score, and so the war was ended. [The name of the victim suggests SEtAn, a TtukwaxAdi shaman of the Dry Bay area. (See p. 672.)] The Story of Gusex and the Fate of the Dry Bay People The settlement of Gusex on the Akwe River near Dry Bay was the home of the Tl'uknaxAdi, although some seem to have lived on the shores of Dry Bay. At Gusex also lived other Raven sibs, the Athabaskan TlukwaxAdi, the Koskedi and the ancestors of the DAqdenten. Apparently the spouses of these people included Box House Kagwantan, Teqwedi, and prob- ably the CAnkuqedi. Its founding, or at least its early days are connected with the Tlingit from Hoonah, QakexwtE, who taught the Dry Bay Athabaskans how to fish. In one of the versions of his story recorded by Swanton (1909, Tale 32, p. 161), the town was settled by Tlingit from southeastern Alaska in the spring following QakexwtE's return from the Athabaskans. Here the Tl'uknaxAdi built Sleep House, the crest ob- tained when he killed his own sleep in the form of a bird and gave it to his wife's sib. This story is not very satisfactory, because Swanton's Wrangell informant located the town at the mouth of the Alsek River, and also showed himself ignorant of the local geography by indicating that the Copper River was close by. Our own version of the same story (see below, and compare pp. 274-275) would suggest that Gusex was already established before QakexwtE came to the Dry Bay country. Gusex was abandoned and the Tl'uknaxAdi dispersed because, it is said, several canoes from the town were lost in Lituya Bay. It seems impossible to date this tragedy?in fact, there may have been more than one shipwreck in the treacherous entrance to the bay. We know of the loss of several large skin boats shortly before LaPerouse's visit in 1786. Our informants, while denying that the boats from Gusex were of skin, sug- gested that it was flotsom from these overturned canoes that attracted the Russians to this part of Alaska. The fact that the woman who composed the song about the drownings was supposed to have witnessed the loss of her relatives suggests that the village from which they came or where she lived was not on the Akwe River but was in Lituya Bay. The expedition which was lost is linked with the war between the Tl'uknaxAdi and the GanAxtedi of Chilkat. A chief of the latter sib, Yelxak, may well have been the same man as the chief whom Ismailov and Bocharov met in Yakutat Bay in 1788 (see pp. 134-135). However, it is not necessary to assume that, even if we can date the war and the drownings to the latter part of the 18th century, the abandonment of Gusex followed immed- iately. Causes may take a long time to produce results, as interpreted in native history. A Russian cannon, taken by the Tlaxayik-Teqwedi in 1805, and carried back to Gusex by the Tl'uknaxAdi after they had crushed the latter, is said to have been left behind when Gusex was deserted. The final aban- donment of this town, whether or not connected with earlier or later drownings, would appear to have taken place about the middle of the 19th century: after 1852? the date of the massacre of the Wrangell peace party in Sitka?since a man from Gusex played an important part in this event (see the War between the Kagwantan and the C^Atqwan, pp. 279-284). By 1890, when Glave and Dalton passed through the country, Gusex had ceased to exist. I have already given a number of references to Swanton's two versions of the Story of QakexwtE (pp. 81, 90, 227), so do not need to summarize these here. It may be of interest, however, to present the version of the story recorded at Yakutat. THE STORY OF QAKEXWTE [The following brief version of the famous story was made by Jack Reed, Tl'uknaxAdi, born in Sitka, 1880, died at Yakutat, 1953. It was recorded, July 4, 1952, in Tlingit, 1952, 1-2-A, together with the song com- posed by the leading character of the story (p. 1158). The following version in English is a free translation, with explanatory details, given by Minnie Johnson, and also recorded.] Now I am going to explain the words to the song that man, KakEndaqin, sings. That's his Tlingit name. His name is Jack Reed. The song he sang a while ago, they want me to explain in English, so I try. The song is composed by a man, QakexwtE. They call the point Seqayi [sit xayi, 'glacier point'?]? around the bay, like. So he's a pretty busy man, putting up food, hunting. Very little sleep he gets. He's working night and day and he's a pretty busy man. And he never sleeps much at night. Finally he try to sleep, and there was a bird flying IN THREE PARTS MYTH, LEGEND, AND MEMORY 271 around him. They call it in English "Bob White, Bob White" [whip-poor-will?]. I t was around his face and it keep him awake more. So he got angry and hit that bird?knocked him down. In English they call it "Sleep." That's his sleep, he Mil it himself. He's so restless and can't sleep. He kill his sleep himself, so he is sleepless. He search for a place where he can rest and sleep. Finally he made up his mind to search for a place to sleep. There is nothing but a glacier from Se^ayi up to Alsek. . . . He make up his mind to keep on walking. He is so much alone. . . . Those qayahayi [shadows], spirits?- he begin to imagine things. Sometimes he sees a man coming towards him. Soon as he get near, it disappears. He keep on going. He got it in his mind to go to Alsek and meet his wife's tribe. He keep on going. He still sees things. He sees a man coming towards him. He got kind of hurried. He want to have someone to talk to. I t disappears? the same thing. . . . He come to Alsek to a tribe called TlukwaxAdi. It's just the same as Tl'uknaxAdi. They're all together, but they get different names. . . . He come to a place and he see where there are some men up the creek. People are trying to snare eulachons, sak we call it. They made some kind of a trap for it. They could only catch one at a time. He met the people and told them to dig some roots and make a fish scoop and dip out the eulachon instead of getting them one at a time. "Dip net" he called it. He also ordered them to dig a hole in the sand and to line it with something so that the fish wouldn't get full of sand, and to put the fish in a pile?-make a big pile of it?so they can get eulachen oil. That's what they're after, a long time ago. . . . So from him they learn how to catch eulachon. In return, after they are scooping eulachon and make a big pile, and they decide they get enough. . . . This new man coming to Alsek?the real settlement is Gusex. All the interior Indians and Tluk^axAdi are mixed. . . . It's a big village itself. The ThikwaxAdi and the Tl'uknaxAdi are together. . . . Then they find out that man is brother-in-law to Tl'uknaxAdi, and in return they give him a young girl, in return for the help he give to the people. So that's done, and that's why he compose the song. . . . He got a young wife, and he's friendly with his brother-in-law. His wife belongs to our tribe [Tl'ukna- xAdi]. Her name is Kunuc[ [or ]?nak]. He turned this song over to his wife's family, his wife's tribe. That's all I can understand. [The actual words of the song were not translated.] [The recording made by Jack Reed was played on March 22, 1959, for John Ellis, who was persuaded to attempt a more literal translation. This is supplemented by explanations (in parentheses) made then and on March 14,1954, when the tape was also played for him.] Now I'm going to tell you, my friends sitting over there, that the way they told the story, down below Se4ayi?the other side, where it was inside. QakeiwtE?he's married to our sister, Tl'uknaca [a Tl'uknaxAdi woman]. At that time he can't sleep, got stone where his foot[?]?that's the time he heard something that sounded like a bird. And he clubbed it, and he find out it was ta, 'sleep.' He saw it, and that's what he gave to his wife (he made it his wife's belong- ing). [She was] Tl'uknaca?that's why they call our house Ta hit, Sleep House. That's why he doesn't sleep for many nights. (And he wanted to come up to Gusex. That Gu&ex is Tl'uknaxAdi's tribe's place. That's why they call that house Ta hit.) (Then he started walking up here.) He walked over a glacier. There was a glacier there at that time. He went over to Le-dAx-nitc (a place on the other side of Dry Bay, where there used to be a glacier). He kept walking, all the way to Alsek? (dak hmitc 'alsex? [back along- the-beach of/at Alsek]?that's the way he walks). He felt that way. That's why he was going to go to Gusex. That's the way he felt it, that time he was coming to Le-dAx-nitc. (And then when he was walking), he always sees somebody coming to meet him. And every time he comes there, there's nothing there. And then after that, the next time, the same thing again. The same thing happens. (It just keeps happening like that.) He dresses up to meet him [the illusion]. (Its name is "olden time people." I think this refers to what the old tune people called red face powder.) He puts reddish stuff on his face?1'exudina?he puts it on his face. That's the way he dresses up when he's coming to the people. This is the song he sings. (He's singing about that thing that always looks like somebody meeting him.) He's the composer of this song. It's what I'm going to sing. [The words of the song could not be accurately translated, nor could the Tlingit words be properly transcribed from the tape. The words of both stanzas resemble somewhat the last words to the song recorded by Swanton (1909, Song 2, pp. 390 f.) although they are not identical.] (The first two words he's got in there sound funny to me. The way it sounded: "I witched those little rocks" doesn't make sense. They have pauses in, so that even one word sounds like three words.) 272 SMITHSONIAN CONTRIBUTIONS TO ANTHROPOLOGY VOLUME 7 He sees like little rocks?like you're looking for something on the beach, you look at little rocks. He was looking around the beach for something. When you're looking, it turns out like what you're looking for?-something like an optical illusion. It was just little rocks. [Second stanza] "I give up hope of seeing it." ("I was watching," or something?that's what he's singing.) And then he came over to Alsek. They trapped hooligans [eulachons], and that time he saw it, living way up there in the river, and there was a village. That's the time he taught the TlukwaxAdi how to make this trap. They're staying together with the Tl'uknaxAdi. (Tl'uknaxAdi and ThikwaxAdi were staying up at Alsek, getting these eulachon.) And then he told them to get tree roots. A long time ago we didn't know any- thing. And they made a dip net (dfga). At that time they call it ieta xedi [trap lead]. They put it in and the fish came right up against it. (The eulachon trap is Mtx. But they didn't use it that time. They built a lead, like a fence, and dipped them out of there.) They dug a hole. And that's where they're dipping? into that hole?-where there was good sand. He helped them nicely, his people [i.e., the narrator's sib]. TcukAnedi?-(the tribe to which QakexwtE belonged. Same thing as Kagwantan. These tribes just split up all the time). He made Tl'uknaxAdi. He helped them to exist, to multiply, helped increase the Tl'uknaxAdi population. Some people don't believe this?that he made the Tl'uknaxAdi, this TcukAnedi [man]. It's because of him?this is why we are people. (He's the one 'made' us?XAh'ylx?same word for making a boat.) This is what he taught them. From there on we are beginning to think that Ti'uknaca was married to the man who clubbed his own sleep. We think that man was the one. [I.e., we think this man should marry a Tl'uk- naxAdi woman?] That's why this Ti'uknaca, while she was still young, they gave him permission to marry her. That's the way it was about our life. That's the way their [our] life is. It's surprising?-ku qa da gwAtli. Where this song ends, and this time we are staying in Yakutat. (The place they meet is at the cannery over here.) It's just like we're having the hardest time this year. (What a situation we are in now, since this? [Company] took over the cannery [from Libby]. We are facing hard times.) Two summers, we haven't got a job here. Everything's going wrong. Everything's going against our favor?even the head of the cannery. There's nobody to help us now. We are poor people. That's all we earn?only $200 or $300 dollars (every summer?not enough for winter living). That's how much we make this time. It's hard for us. I'm just telling you, these village people, just how much we who are staying in Yakutat are suffering. Thank you for listening to me. (This is what you recorded?sounds like he's asking Southeast people to come up, help us out. That story he's telling is like illustrating that man who came up to help us out, and this [recording] sounds like he's asking those people. . . . Nobody will come here to help us out. . . . It doesn't tell in the story what happened to the wife he left behind. . . . The bird he killed was Sleep, and he never could sleep again. . . . That's how they [Tl'uknaxAdi] got Ta hit.) [A Tl'uknaxAdi woman, Annie George, who heard the recording said:] This was the place, Diyayi?East River, where he taught the people to catch herring in traps. The song is claimed by the TlukwaxAdi. He found the Thikw- axAdi all mixed up with interior people. He knows the TlukwaxAdi are his kani [brothers-in-law], and they show him the way, how to walk over to Gusex. He started from TanyedAq?that's Hoonah. He taught them to make digit, dipper. Then he taught them to make a fire and scoop up eulachon and line a hole with skunk cabbage and dip eulachon in there. In the song he imagines lots of those men come to him. He just imagined it. [July 16, 1952.] Jack Reed, rehearing his own recording, August 5, 1952, said that no one in Yakutat knew the story except himself?just Frank Italio, who forgets. He went on to explain how the Alsek people were catching fish, and it seemed as if he were describing a Figure-Four deadfall. THE STORY OF GUSEX At Gusex three different people moved there in olden times. There was an Indian village on the east side at Alsek, and two on the west side. But it was maybe 30 or 40 miles from the Alsek to the big village on the Akwe where the people came. There is a Ta hit [Sleep House] in Sitka and there was one at Gusex [Jack Reed; August 5, 1952.] Gusex is about halfway up Akwe River. It's where the interior Indians and the TlukwaxAdi and Tt'ukna- xAdi were settled. They had Ca hit [Mountain House, for Mt. Fairweather], Yay hit [Whale House], and Dekina hit [Far Out House], and some other houses there. . . . There were four houses and a lot of small ones I don't know. I could remember only three of the big ones: Frog House, Sea Lion House, and Whale House. [Annie George; July 7 and 16, 1952.] Four tribal houses were built up at Gusex [Mrs. Frank Dick, May 17, 1954.] At Alsek [Gusex] they had Dekina hit [Far Out House], 'Itc hit [Boulder House], T E hit [Stone House, or was it Ta,Sleep?], and Xixtc hit [Frog House]. IN THREE PARTS MYTH, LEGEND, AND MEMORY 273 [Minnie Johnson; June 23, 1954.] Just as there seems to be some confuston in house names, for undoubtedly the same houses carried more than a single name, so their owners or builders seem to have had several names. The owner of Frog House was Qalgekw?the most important Tl'uknaxAdi man in Gusex. He had other names [MJ, July 13, 1952]. The man who owned Frog House at Gusex was named Djisnfya?this seemed to be the consensus of opinion. Djisniya and his brother, Dexwudu'u owned Frog House [MJ, August 25, 1952]. Frog House was built by Stagwan [MJ and AG, July 7, 1952]. Djisniya was head of Tl'uknaxAdi when they were building Frog House, and he found the Frog. [MJ and AG, August 8, 1952]. [I heard several accounts of this remarkable find:] They were digging the foundations for the corner posts and they find this frog. It was froze solid. The old people were suspicious of such things. They put it in a good warm place. When the frog thawed out, my goodness! it come to life! That Frog House got four corner posts carved like frogs. They are still in there. [Minnie Johnson; July 30, 1952.] So when the Tl'uknaxAdi started to build the house there, they found a frozen frog. They put the frog on a piece of spruce bark, and they just put it aside. They were going to put it back again [in the post hole], but that frog came back alive. That frog is kind of a white- looking frog. That's how come the Alsek people claim that Frog belong to us. They called [the house] Xixtc hit, and it's still named Xixtc hit to this day. They made a xin [screen, rear partition] out of the frog. . . . [Mrs. Frank Dick; June 17, 1954.] Tl'trknaxAdi tribe was digging in the ground where they were going to put the posts, the foundation of the house they were going to build. And while they were digging and digging, they dig up a frog that was frozen?frozen to death. And they put it up. They put it up on a piece of bark, I think. And while it lay there it came back to life. . . . And while they were working, they look at that frog. I t is come to alive. And they were all surprised to see that frog come back alive. And that's why after they built that house, they call it Xixt6 hit. It was at Gusex. . . . And after they built that house, they make a totem pole in the four corners of the house, and a big frog xin, Xixtc xin [Frog Screen]. . . . .The headman, Djisniya, he's the one that's going to built that house. . . . That's why they put that frog on four corners and when they fix that screen they put a frog [on it]. . . . [Frank Italio; May 7, 1954; Minnie Johnson interpreting.] The frog was said to be "the biggest frog you ever saw"?about 12 inches in diameter. Stagwan built the original Frog House, and his namesake built a Frog 265-517?72?Tol. VII, pt. 1 20 House at Sitka that was broken up by the KiksAdi (pp. 290-291). "The posts at Gusex were still standing all covered with moss when I saw it about 40 years ago." [Annie George; July 7, 1952.] That Frog House was at Gusex. Right next to it is Yay hit [Whale House]. It's the biggest tribal house that was ever built. It was made of logs bigger than that one [at least 5 feet in diameter]. That's why it's still there. The chief of the house was Q'exix. He is my mother's relation . . . . Yay hit is the biggest tribal house in Gusex. It was made of big logs and a big frame. Nobody can understand how in the world they got it up there. That's why they still see it, covered with moss. They name their grandchildren after it, "Never Turn to Ground" ['Never Decays']. [Minnie Johnson; July 30, 1952.] Ldaxin built a tribal house in Gusex?Yay hit?? biggest house in the world. People don't know how in the world they got the studdings up. The posts are still standing, only covered with moss [Minnie Johnson; August 7, 1952]. Frank Italio was telling me about that Gusex house, Yay hit?the big studdings are just as solid, only the moss all grown over it. He kicked it. How many years ago since those eight canoes capsized in Lituya Bay! They just moved out of there. [Minnie Johnson; May 1, 1954.] The next house above Yay hit is CA hit, Mountain House. The owner is Dexudu'u. [Minnie Johnson; July 30, 1952.] DESTRUCTION OF THE CANOES FROM GUSE:?; WAR WITH THE QANAXTEDI [Most of the following account (somewhat edited) was told by Minnie Johnson on July 30, 1952, when she and Frank Italio sang the songs commemorating the drownings in Lituya Bay, 1952, 2-2-B (p. 1159). Another recording was made by his sister, Mrs. Frank Dick, 1954, 6-2-C (p. 1160), who also dictated the words, May 17, 1954.] From there [Gusex], the Tl'uknaxAdi left to go trad- ing, and they are supposed to come back. . . . Mount Fairweather gives a sign if something terrible is going to happen. They knew it before they started. . . . (There were 10 war canoes, 8 men in each canoe. They were in Lituya Bay for a rest. They struck it at the wrong tide. The big rock, tantsyi [sea lion rock], got them.) [June 30, 1952.] People were going to make war on the GanAxtedi of Chilkat. They killed a bald-headed man at Qa ca kutnuq wAt[?], right at the mouth of Chilkat River. Our own tribe cut his head off. And that head had no hair. The Tl'uknaxAdi get that [head]. They just get the body and cut off the head with no hair. 274 SMITHSONIAN CONTRIBUTIONS TO ANTHROPOLOGY VOLUME 7 So when they get excited, the bald-headed head is in the way, and the young fellows threw it overboard. They were going to replace the GanAxtedi man that the TI'uknaxAdi had killed, but the TI'uknaxAdi man sent to even the score died with heart failure in the big canoe, so there was still one to make it even for us TI'uknaxAdi. Big Raven, Yel-tlen, was the TI'uknaxAdi doctor. When he get his spirits sent, he question all the people around him: "Who threw that bald-headed head overboard?" He pointed to them. "You? You? Was it you?" There was a GanAxtedi 'ixi [shaman]. His name was CAX [Wild Currants]. His spirit's name was 'An- kuxoyi, "Town-Rover." They believed he hurt them because the TI'uknaxAdi killed the GanAxtedi man, and when they threw the head overboard, this hurt the doctor's feelings, so he upset the boats. They believe that is the cause of it all, because the bald-headed man was killed by the TI'uknaxAdi. That's why the doctor gets angry at us. It was just to make it even, he upset the canoes. I guess we were as guilty as they were. Then that spirit of Yel-tlen captured that CAX'S spirit, for Yel-tlen is on our side. That Big Raven got more power than any Indian doctor. He took the spirit away from CAX. The lady who composed the song, Wuckika, lost eight brothers. It's her real brothers who got drowned before her eyes. They were on the overturned canoes. One of them was XatsakwA (XasAliw, or Xatsuqwa, or Xasagu'), the last of Yay hit. He knows there's no hope for him. He makes a noise; it sounds like a frog. [I.e., he made the cry of his sib totem when meeting death bravely.] The woman who lost the eight brothers composed a lot of songs. She used to sit on the sand dunes and cry and sing, especially when the tide was smooth. The song composed by the woman belongs to [is about?] Mount Fairweather. That's why we claim the song. The woman's uncles and brothers were all gone. Because so many of our people drowned, Paul Henry named his boat [bought in 1952] "Mount Fairweather." The boats that were lost were not skin boats. They didn't have them that time. Only lately[?] they start to get skin boats in Lituya Bay. That time they drowned, they had eight men in each canoe. Skin canoes are too small [sic]. [Only the words for the first stanza could be recorded and translated. As dictated and explained by Mrs. Frank Dick, they are:] Your grandfathers were watching the paddlers' mountain [like a compass]. Close by, your hands miss it. [The canoe over- turned, and they tried to grab it.] [The mountain that was used as a compass was Tsalxan, Mount Fairweather.] [A song (1954, 1-2-E; p. 1161), commemorates a canoe, Crane Boat, that was lost in this war. Both TI'uknaxAdi and Kwac?qwan claim the rights to the canoe and to the song. The following account, somewhat edited, was given by Charley White and Frank Dick on April 9, 1954.] The towns were fighting each other just as Americans were fighting in Germany. The GanAxtedi and TI'uk- naxAdi were fighting. They have that big canoe, Duf yakw [Crane Canoe]; they take it up to Chilkat. They fight over there?no more TI'uknaxAdi?clean out the whole thing?that canoe, too. The GanAxtedi bust up the whole thing, smashed the canoe. [Only one stanza of the song was recorded and "trans- lated"; the singers were uncertain about the second:] All smashed up, the Crane Canoe. They went away from here. The Crane Canoe is still there. SWANTON'S VERSION OF TH6 WAR [Swanton's version of the story of QakexwtE, recorded at Wrangell (1909, Tale 32, pp. 161-165), ends with an account of the war between the GanAxte'df of Chilkat and the L!uk!nAXA'd! of Kosle'x and of KAqlAnuwu' (Grouse Fort, Hoonah territory). This would seem to have taken place immediately after the founding of Kosle'x (Gusex), the year after Kakeq!ut^ (QakeiwtE) had returned south with the Athabaskans.] The GanAxtedi chief, Cku'wu-yel, 'Tailless Raven' [now a TI'uknaxAdi name], had invited the Kagwantan to a lavish potlatch at Chilkat. This seems to have been in connection with the making of a totem pole, carved to represent AnkAxwa'i ["Town Rover"?], the spirit of his shaman, CqeLaqa', and also with the dis- play of his Raven Hat. Apparently the TI'uknaxAdi, spouses of the Kagwantan, were also at this potlatch. Q!one f&one], the TI'uknaxAdi chief, made a Raven Hat, on which a Raven, with beak, tail, and wings of copper pecked at a copper plate. This he displayed to the Kagwantan at Grouse Fort, speaking disparagingly of GanAxtedi generosity. In retaliation, the GanAxtedi built Whale House (Ya'i hit), and bought Tlingit slaves (Decitan, Tcuk- Anedi, and Tl'enedi) to give away at the potlatch. This provoked war, because the TI'uknaxAdi who had only less valuable Flathead slaves to give, felt ashamed, and the sibs whose relatives had been enslaved were also angry, but the GanAxtedi defeated them all. A GanAxtedi chief, Yel-xak, had married the daughter of a TI'uknaxAdi man named Big Raven, Yel-tlen (yel-Len). The latter lived at Laxayl'k, which the narrator seems to use synonymously with Kosle'x. Yel-xak sent a slave via the interior with food and IN THREE PARTS MYTH, LEGEND, AND MEMORY 275 tobacco to his father-in-law (see pp. 144-145). He thought the latter would make peace for theTl'uknaxAdi slain at Land Otter Point and AnAk!-nu (unidentified). A Tl'uknaxAdi man, Cadisl'ktc, prepared for war, with a helmet carved to represent the monster rat that lives under Wasli'ca mountain (Saint Elias), and with spearheads of drift iron, while Yel-tlen sent his spirit to scout the route for the war party. They were joined by Tl'uknaxAdi from Grouse Fort, whose relatives had been slain by the QanAxtedi. The help of the KiksAdi, DAqdentan, and "other families," was purchased with coppers (see p. 269). Yel-xak was killed by Cadisl'ktc, because the spears of the Chilkat had points only of bone and mountain goat horn, not of drift iron. The Tl'uknaxAdi from Grouse Fort took the totem pole, AnkAxwa'i. Then Cku'wu-yel went to Grouse Fort to make peace. The war had lasted 5 years. The Kaven Hat which he had captured was returned by his wife, the daughter of Ldahi'n who was the Tl'uknaxAdi chief, and head of Sleep House. The captured totem pole was returned to the QanAxtedi in exchange, both objects covered with eagle down (a symbol of peace). Cku'wuyei and his father-in-law, Ldahi'n, were exchanged as "deer," and a permanent peace was established. We might note that several Tl'uknaxAdi men have borne the name, Tailless Raven, suggesting that it might have been obtained or captured from the QanAxtedi. One was Jack Reed, born in Sitka in 1880; another is William Benson, born in 1890 in Yakutat, but now living in Sitka. The latter also has the name Cadasiktc as a "potlatch name." A man of this name was chief of Sleep House in Sitka in 1904 (Swanton, 1908, p. 406). COMMENTS ON THE DBOWNINGS IN LITUTA BAT [The following statement was made by a Tl'uknaxAdi woman, after telling about the war between the Tl'uknaxAdi and Tlaxayik-Teqwedi. (Annie George; August 7, 1952.) The drownings in Lituya Bay were mentioned. It was sorrow for those who drowned that led the others to abandon Guiex.] That's how the Russians came on this side in a schooner. They saw those things drifting by [flotsam from the canoes]. They want to find out where those things come from, and they found out on this side there were so many skins. And then they go to the native people. People were at QAUAWAS [Knight Island], and at Khantaak, and at Nessudat, and at Gucine [at or near Diyaguna'Et], when the Russians came. I don't know why they left QAJIAWAS. [A Dry Bay woman, Emma Ellis, said on August 1952:] You know that Lituya Bay? The Tl'uknaxAdi get drowned over there. And all that good stuff washed out to sea?sea-otter skins wash out to sea. And those halibut skin bags [waterproof bags in which the furs were carried]?it floats. The Russians get it. That's why the Russians came to Lituya Bay. [The recording of Wuckika's songs prompted the following comment, by John Ellis, March 14, 1954:] Frank Italio told me that story. All I know, when the Tl'uknaxAdi used to trade, they used to go south and would trade with furs, and then come back here. And the seven canoes are what capsized in Lituya Bay, at the time the song was composed. Maybe there's another song, I don't know. But that song may be at the time it capsized over there. There's another song they're singing. All those things they had?those halibut skin bags had a lot of furs in them. And that's what drifted out and those Russians found it. That's why they started looking up this way. That's what she was singing about. . . . There's lots of furs in it, and those things [halibut skin bags] got buoyancy; they could drift far away. . . . They don't use skin boats?all wood, big canoes, yakw [A Tl'uknaxAdi woman added (Minnie Johnson; July 4, 1952):] The houses at Gusex became empty because the eight canoes, going south to the southeast of Alaska, got drowned in Lituya Bay. A Russian cannon was left at Gusex. That's where you should dig. The people that lived there moved to Dry Bay and to here [Yakutat]. GIANT WAVES AT LITUTA BAT That the wrecking of the Tl'uknaxAdi canoes may have been due to giant waves, and that the village which was abandoned as a result was not Gusex, but a settlement in Lituya Bay, is suggested by the tradition reported by J. P. Williams (1952, p. 138). This is summarized, after describing the giant waves of 1936 and evidence of an earlier catastrophe of the same nature. "The incidents just related tend to corroborate the old Indian story about Lituya Bay. They say that at one time a large native village stood near the bay entrance. The place was much favored as a base for sea otter hunting. Inherently weather- wise, and using Mount Fairweather as a barometer, the Indians ventured to sea when the weather was clear and scurried for the shelter of the bay when the storm clouds began to gather on Fairweather's high snow cap. There came a day, however, when the returning hunters faced a scene of wreckage and destruction far greater than that of 1936. The 276 SMITHSONIAN CONTRIBUTIONS TO ANTHROPOLOGY VOLUME 7 village had been completely wiped out and the only person who remained alive was one woman who had been able to reach high ground and escape the flood. She had been gathering berries well up on the slopes of the hills." Although Williams believes that this disaster oc- curred "175 or 200 years ago"?probably dated from his own visit to Lituya Bay in 1936?it seems to me more likely that this was due to the giant waves of 1853 or early in 1854 (p. 94). A SITKA VERSION What may be a reference to the same tragedy is found in a story that Swanton heard in Sitka, about the Alsek River People (1909, Tale 27, p. 65). According to this, the shamans who lived in a town on the Alsek River predicted that disaster was coming to their neighbors who lived in a great town on a lake (Lituya Bay?). This was because the latter had said that they were not afraid of things that stutter and cannot speak properly. When two men from this town had gone hunting on top of the mountain, they saw a great flood pour down between the mountains and destroy their town. "This flood was caused by an avalanche which poured into the lake and filled it up, forcing the water out. Some human bodies were hanging to the branches of the trees." The two survivors knew that this had been brought about by the angry land otters. THE FATE OF THE DRY BAY PEOPLE Although Gusex was said to have been settled first, there were also Tl'uknaxAdi living in "Ory Bay during its occupation. When Gusex was abandoned "in a hurry," the people from there joined their relatives in Dry Bay, or dispersed to Sitka, Hoonah, and Yakutat. One of the settlements mentioned was at Diyayi, on the east side of Dry Bay. The Tl'uknaxAdi that were moving towards Yakutat were perhaps those who built houses on Johnson Slough, Situk, and Lost River. According to our informants, it was on moving away from Gusex that the Koskedi and the DA4dentan be- came separated from the Tl'uknaxAdi. Misfortune was also to overwhelm the TlukwaxAdi. Two explanations for this disaster were given by the same informant, the daughter of a TlukwaxAdi man. FLOOD AT DRY BAY [Told by Emma Ellis; August 5, 1952. The in- formant's grandmother was 10 years old in 1852, at the time of the massacre of the Wrangell peace party at Sitka. The flood probably took place about that time, perhaps somewhat earlier.] Then one time, you know, when my father's mother was a little girl up at Tinx kayani [Kinnikinnik Leaves, on the Tatshenshini, see pp. 87, 89], there was a flood all over. It was because my father's people [TlukwaxAdi] made fun of a seagull. They threw it in the fire. It was a young one and couldn't fly. They threw it in again. All its feathers burned off. They laughed at it. And then a great flood came. And there was no place to be safe. That glacier broke that used to go across the Alsek. The people tied their canoes to the "Whale's fin." That island at the mouth of Dry Bay, GAltcinuwu, used to be a whale, and the people tied their canoes to the part sticking up. But some of the young people untied their canoes too soon. A great wave came along, turned over the boats, and the young people were all flooded in the ocean. Only the old people were saved. It was when my father's mother was a little girl at Tinx kayani when it happened. When she'd grown up my grandma called her sons by all her uncles' names. Her uncles got drowned that time. When she talked about it, my grandma always cried. They lose lots of people that time. BIG RABBIT AND HIS WIFE [A brief summary of this incident was given by John Ellis, July 23, 1952.1 They moved away from Diyayi. The wife cried every day because they had killed her relatives. He [Big Rabbit, the shaman] got tired of it and told his people to cut his wife's hah1. The rest all died off. Only John Williams [TlukwaxAdi, died 1949?] stayed there. The TlukwaxAdi are all scattered now. [A fuller account of this incident was told by Emma Ellis on April 18, 1954.] GAx-tlen (Big Rabbit) was a big Indian doctor?? TlukwaxAdi. His wife, a Teqwca, was crying about her brothers. The TlukwaxAdi had given them food?some kind of Tlingit food?meat or something, that mountain goat meat, or berries. They gave it to those Teqwedi, that woman's "brothers." Wayout cousins, in olden time, they call them "brothers." They gave them food in a dish, and they don't give it back to TlukwaxAdi. That's what they war about i t . . . . They just leave it some- place, then they go away. Olden time, a fancy dish is close to them. Some of them, moose horn or something, they make a dish out of it. And some kind of good wood, they make a dish out of i t . . . . I don't know what kind, they just tell it like that. Then they kill those two boys?about that d i s h . . . . Teqwedi can't do anything. They're scared of my father's people [TlukwaxAdi] . . . . Then that GAx-tlen's wife crying all the time. And that GAx-tlen, he can't do anything about it. Then one IN THREE PARTS MYTH, LEGEND, AND MEMORY 277 time he says he got tired of it. He loves his wife?crying all the time about those two brothers they killed, and they don't want to pay [an indemnity for the slaying]. Just because they don't bring that dish back to ThikwaxAdi, they kill them, just because they look at TtukwaxAdi like they were just nothing. That's the way they think about my father's people. That's why they don't bring that dish. So they killed those two boys. GAx-tien says: "Cut my wife's hair. Make a fire out there," he said, that big Indian doctor. "Make a fire." Then they put it in the fire, that GAx-tien's wife's hair, they say. "They can die off, the TlukwaxAdi people," he says. That's why he says: "Wucftde yAx 'angix nAsift 'an 'ixfi CAt CAxd-ci." [No literal translation was given.] "Nobody there," was what GAx-tien said. "All that people died off." See, this Yakutat place, all these people died off. GAx-tlen wanted his own people to die! [The informant explained that although ordinary people cut off their hair in mourning, it was taboo for a shaman to do so.] That's against the law. . . . Indian doctor and his wife can't cut their hair. That's bad luck. . . . That's a bad thing that man did. That's why Thik"axAdi get mad at him sometimes. And Teqwedi and TlukwaxAdi died off because of it. . . . They died off. Crazy man! Smallpox The abandonment of some of the villages between Yakutat Bay and Dangerous Biver seems to have been due to smallpox, and if the ravages of that disease were as severe in the Akwe River-Dry Bay area as they were near Yakutat and in southeastern Alaska, it may well account for the virtual disappearance of the population in and about Dry Bay. Smallpox came to the Tlingit at a very early period, for near Sitka Portlock in 1787 saw pockmarks on the faces of all but the children. The disease probably had spread from the Spanish expedition of 1775. A more severe epidemic began at Sitka in November 1836, and by March of the following year had killed about half the adult population. By 1838 and 1839 it had spread over southeastern Alaska, and when it died out in 1840, one half the Tlingit had died. It is probably this epidemic which devastated the villages near Yakutat. There was also another widespread smallpox epidemic in 1862 (see pp. 177-178). We should also remember that two Aleuts came down with smallpox at Yakutat in 1795, although no epidemic is recorded (pp. 166-167). In addition, some serious disease afflicted the Russian garrison at Yakutat in 1800 (p. 169). Measles spread over Russian America in 1848 (p. 178). There were also epidemics of typhoid in 1819, 1848, and 1855. Since native accounts of epidemics are fairly brief it is very difficult to determine which one is meant. According to a CAnkuqedi informant (Mrs. Chester Johnson; June 7, 1954), smallpox "killed everyone" in Dry Bay. It was at this time that QAlaxetl, also called Ltune?, became a shaman, and acquired the Disease Spirits as his familiars. This man was the mother's father of Lituya Bay George, a ^afkA'ayi man who was born in Sitka in 1854 of a Kagwantan father. The epidemic was before the days of schooners. Before the Russians came, some people who had been in southeastern Alaska brought back the corpse of a person who had died there of smallpox, starting an epidemic here [Sampson Harry, July 14, 1952]. When smallpox came, the Indian doctors saw spirits coming, paddling in canoes (see p. 710). So many died they couldn't burn them. Diarrhea came, and then another epidemic of smallpox. This was when my mother's father's father was a little boy and it orphaned him [1836-39?]. A lot of people moved away from here to Sitka [Jack Ellis, 1949]. Jack Ellis's mother's father's father was the Kwac&- qwan chief, Yaxodaqet (II)?uncle to Chief George who died in 1903. His wife was the Drum House Teqwedi girl, QakEnAxkugE, who was suckled by her uncle after all her relatives had died of smallpox. (For another version of the story see p. 279.) I don't know what year it was?-they had smallpox, and everybody died off. My mother's mother was a newborn baby. She was born during the epidemic. They had sothing to give her because her mother died when she was a baby. They used to feed her on straw- berries. Her name was Qelkf (or Qelke'). I saw her. I think she died about 1908, because I was 8 years old when she died. She was really old, but I don't know how old. [She was a Gatyix-Kagwantan woman, wife of Dry Bay George, who had come from Bering River about 1896 or a year or so later.] [Helen Bremner; March 13, 1954.] Cada, the Kwackqwan chief, seems to have been about II years old during the smallpox epidemic. He died in 1908 or 1909, a very old man. Presumably this was the epidemic of 1836-39. A more complete account of this epidemic and its effects was given by Cada's grandson. SMALLPOX AND THE KWACKQWAN [The following was told by Harry K. Bremner on several occasions.] 278 SMITHSONIAN CONTRIBUTIONS TO ANTHROPOLOGY VOLUME 7 At the time of the smallpox, people were living at Aka. It was KTackqwan, but not the capital city. They stayed there to smoke fish and sometimes they stayed there in the winter, too, but the true capital was Nessudat. On Summit Lake was Gutc-caki-'an. Here the Kwackqwan men had smokehouses. They were married to [Qlalyix] Kagwantan and to Teqwedi, the latter all mixed up by that time. The Kwackqwan capital was Nessudat. That's the capital, like Washing- ton, D.C. It was the last village to Lost River, near the airfield. It was a village after the Russians. They stay there in just small smokehouses before, but after the Russians they make a big city. At Nessudat was Raven's Bones House, the highest house of our tribe. The chief was Yaxodaqet. There was also Moon House and Fort House, and more I don't remember, but those were the big ones. All the people in the different houses were like cousins. They were "brothers" in the same tribe, but they don't always get along good, I don't know why [July 11, 1952]. Smallpox, kwan, came after the Russians. There were people living all the way from Summit Lake, Second Summit Lake, to Lost River. And they all died. They died where they were sitting, mothers with babies in their arms. A few people were left alive at Lost River and some were left at Situk also. All the rest died. They didn't try to burn them that year, but next year the survivors burned them [August 28, 1952]. All the way from Summit Lake to Lost River, they were burning so many bodies, the air was thick with smoke. My father showed me the charcoal all along the ground. They moved from Nessudat to Khantaak, and there the tribes all lived together in one village. From Khantaak, they moved to the Old Village at Yakutat. [July 11, 1952.] TEST OF THE STONE LAMPS [The following story was told by Harry K. Bremner, May 2, 1954, in response to questions about an episode that had been mentioned by Jack Ellis in 1949: That people at Diyaguna'Et were starving, but a boy had thrown a stone lamp down the blowhole of a whale and killed it.] . . . I think that was after the smallpox. . . Well, that's the story. Maybe just a story, I don't know.... I don't know how the people died. They said it was smallpox?they call it kwan?the biggest death in Yakutat. The biggest population here at that time. . . . At First Summit Lake [Aka Lake] there used to be a village?not a town. There were just small places from there to Diyaguna'Et, from the village all the way . . . lots of little places. That's the time the people died off, of the smallpox. In those days, they don't bury each other. They burn it?they burned the body [and put the ashes in a little house on posts, he explained]. And deaths are coming fast. They don't look at the bodies; everybody was sick. When a person died, just sit there. The whole village, from Ankau to Diyaguna'Et, nobody left. If that didn't happen Yakutat would be a big population. Two sickness [two epidemics?]. After that sickness was over, what was left of them at Diyaguna'Et, they got no lamp. But they know where there's one?up at Nessudat. There's a lamp in one of the houses. And one of the men said: "Who was the bravest?" That was night. It's dark. "Who was the bravest man to get the lamp from Diyaguna'Et?" In those days people were very afraid of dead body. They don't [get] afraid of anything [else], but they are afraid of dead body. And one of the braves said: "I'm going to go. I'm going to get that lamp." They gave him a stick. He carried a stick. That headman of them told the brave man: "See how far you're going to come close to the house; you're going to put this stick in the ground." And he went. He didn't bring it [the lamp]. He come without it. So another one go. He gets the stick again. He goes into the house, but he don't come through the door inside. He just open the door. He left his stick there. Then another one go. He went in the house, but he don't reach it [the lamp]. Another one went again. I don't know how many of them, but so many of them?(maybe more than four)? see who's the bravest man. When that man come back, the head of the braves ask, "Why don't they bring it? Why? Why not get it when they're inside the house already?" And this man said: "It's dark in there. Can't see nothing." It's nighttime. It's pretty dark. He don't see nothing. That's all he could see is eyes?eyes of the dead bodies?shine, shine just like a spark. And the mouth?-the only thing they see. And next day, they take a look to see who's coming close, who's the bravest. And they don't touch the lamp, they don't take it. They went back to Diyaguna'Et. The next night, when it's real dark, that man ask, the head of them ask the men again: "Who's going to go this time, bring the lamp?" And one of the young fellows said: "I'm going to go." And he went. He got the lamp. He take the lamp out But he don't bring it. He throw it right in the river in front of the house at Nessudat. He went back and reported he got it but he throw it in the river. And a little while afterwards, I don't know how many days, they find the whale. Out on the ocean IN THREE PARTS MYTH, LEGEND, AND MEMORY 279 beach, I don't know exactly where. And they find that stone lamp?that blowhole, they find it in there. That time you mention it, there's starvation that time. After sickness over, nothing to eat. Then they find that whale. That's the story. Maybe just a story. [In response to questions]: I don't know why they didn't get it in the daytime. They want somebody to bring it at nighttime. He didn't bring the lamp back because maybe he was just a brave. On the oceanside of the timbers, they just took the bodies to the ocean side and burned them. THE FATE OF THE AHRNKLIN TEQWEDI Smallpox was evidently blamed by some for the depopulation of the AhmVlin villages occupied by the Drum House Teqwedi. Others evidently ascribed, the decline of this lineage to war. All agree, however, that the only survivors were the little girl baby, QakEnax- kugE, who later married the Yakutat chief, Yaxodaqet (II), Kwac&qwan. One of their children was the Teqwedi chief, Daknaqin, also known as Dok-na-kane, or Old Doc. Another was 'Anesu, Mrs. Mary Abraham, (1858-1900), mother of Olaf Abraham and his brothers, leaders of Drum House. [As told by Emma Ellis, July 12, 1952.] That Old Doc's mother [QakEnaxkugE]?when smallbox came, everybody died. All her family was dead; just her uncle was left. And that man nursed that little girl from his own breast. That little girl was raised on her uncle's breast. [Minnie Johnson, August 25, 1952, however, had a different version:] In 'Antien they have some kind of war. My mother preach to me about it. They kill all of them?their own tribe, the Teqwedi. They fight over shame business. When they [you] are starving and they give you some- thing, they held you slave, just the same for spite work. Then your people have to go and pay. [See "dried fish slave," p. 469.] This here man, Nusni [or NusnE]?and after he get away with everything [killed everybody] he thought, and then he struck something with his leg, and it was a baby. He already sober up, come to, you know. He just went wild before. He said to himself: "Pick it up." He clean it up. The baby's mother is killed. There's nobody to take the baby to for help. He's so much alone and he doesn't want to kill the baby. It's his sister's child. I don't know why [he would kill his own sister]. They're just fighting one another. He don't care who he kills. He got mad. He's been planning a long time to start that, you know. QakEnakugE, Daknaqin's mother, was the baby. The reason my mother is preaching to me about her, she was raised by a man. He don't know what on earth to do, so he just give his breast to the baby. Qa-tl'a [-tla?] cawAt?"Man's Titty Woman" they call her when they get mad at her. The Teqwedi is all gone but that little girl. And she raise lots of Teqwedi [the informant enumerated her descendants]. If you grow into be a good woman, you be like that woman. That's why I'm so particular about it [raising girls]. That woman had more Teqwedi out of her. She start the whole Teqwedi tribe. . . . ABANDONMENT OF THE VILLAGES EAST OF YAKUTAT It is difficult to fix exact dates for the desertion of the villages east of Yakutat. Thus, Gutc-caki-'an was probably never reoccupied after the smallpox epidemic, for none of our informants mentioned any individuals known to have lived there. 'Aka, on Aka Lake, was used, at least as a fishing place, until about the be- ginning of the present century, although now there is nothing but a clearing at the site. There were a few people at Nessudat in 1888, but they may have been here only for the summer fishing. Diyaguna'Et was deserted before Nessudat. Henry Shada (born about 1865?) used to tell about people living there, perhaps in his childhood, about 1875. The last important house to have been built at the village was probably Bear Paw House, in the 1850's. From Diyaguna'Et there was a movement, both to Situk village on Situk Kiver, and to Khantaak Island, where the Kwackqwan also settled. The temporary houses on Khantaak, seen by Dall in 1874 [p. 182], were evidently replaced by permanent houses by 1880. The native history of these movements can, however, be better understood by tracing the his- tory of the actual houses, and this is postponed until a latter chapter. The War Between the Kagwantan and the Q The story of the war between the Sitka Kagwantan and the C^Atqwan, or Wrangell people, also involved some of the Kagwantan of the Dry Bay area. It culminated in the massacre of the Wrangell peace party at Sitka in 1852, in which a Kagwantan youth from Gusex played an important role. This story was told as an illustration of Tlingit customs of war and peace, but it is also of interest in indicating that at this period the Box House Kagwantan were living at Gusex, married to the TlukwaxAdi. 280 SMITHSONIAN CONTRIBUTIONS TO ANTHROPOLOGY VOLUME 7 Two versions of this story were told. The characters in the first may be identified as follows: DaxquwAdisn, the Kagwantan hero from Gusex; Yixudu'as, his TlukwaxAdi father, and QAtsuqE or KatsukE, a TlukwaxAdi woman born about 1842. The latter was the daughter of a sister of Yixudu'as, and was 10 years old when she saw her uncle rejoicing in his son's triumph. This woman was the paternal grandmother of the narrator, Emma Ellis. The latter was uncertain about the identity of the C&Atqwan, knowing only that the people were southern Tlingit of the Eagle-Wolf moiety. It would appear that they were not Kake, but the Nanya'ayi of Wrangell. We know the date of the massacre because it is recorded by Tikhmenev (1863, vol. 2, pp. 205-211). At Sitka, on March 31, 1881, Commander Henry Glass (Keport of U.S. Naval Officers . . . 1881-82) secured the consent of the Sitka Kagwantan chiefs and those of their former enemies from Wrangell to a "Treaty of Peace between the Stickeen and Sitka Tribes." According to its terms, both parties pledged themselves to abandon any claims based on former wars, to permit each other to hunt and fish in their territories, to assist each other in distress, and to refer any future disputes to the senior officers of the United States in Alaska. Those who affixed their marks to this document were for the StiMne or Wrangell natives (see Swanton, 1908, p. 402): George Shckes [sic, Shakes], or Ceks, chief of the Nanyaa'yl 'Big House' (Eagle-Wolf), and Jake Sha-Kach, probably Sgaxk!, chief of the Kasqlague'dl Thunder House (Raven). For the Sitka natives, were Annahortz, or Anaxu'ts, 'Grizzly Bear,' the Kagwantan chief of Wolf House, and Woos-kina, probably meaning 'Over All.' The last name does not appear in Swan ton's list (ibid., p. 406). Yakwa'n, 'Swimming Wolf,' chief of the Kagwantan Star House, who was listed by Swanton as the man who "led in the last great fight with the Stikine Indians," was perhaps dead by 1881. He was mentioned by an informant at Angoon who told the story, but not by those at Yakutat (de Laguna, 1960, pp. 155f.). [This was told by a Dry Bay Kagwantan informant. The episodes are rearranged in chronological order (July 22, 1952.)! C^At is a place name. It's Kake. The C&itqwan are on the Eagle side. In Sitka the Kagwantan were killed by the C^Atqwan. The C^Atqwan went over there. The Kagwantan's wife liked a C^Atqwan boy. She run away with him when they go down from Sitka. She was KiksAdi. The KiksAdi cawAt [women] are crazy?like . . . [the names of two sibs are deleted]. But Kagwantan, Tl'uknaxAdi, and iat'kA'ayi are good. That's why they run away. They never think they're going to have [cause] a war. Then she stay outside. She got her monthly all the time [she pretended]. She tell a lie because she was going with that boy. The Kagwantan sent some of their young boys to get their wife back. After a while they see the woman. "What's the matter? We thought you had your monthly." In the old days they were afraid of monthly. It was bad for a woman to be among men [at that time]. Men are going to die or get poor. After they found out, the Kagwantan boys try to take her back. The C^Atqwan don't like it. They had a war and the Kagwantan got killed. The Kagwantan got that woman and took her clothes off and beat her. The Kagwantan people did it. They got mad. . . . . . . At Gusex, Dry Bay, there was a Kagwantan boy, DaxquwAdiin, my cousin. His father was Yixudu'- as, TlukwaxAdi. When he was small, the boy used to go in the water with his father. It was freezing, and he was stiff, like he was dead. After a while, next time, he do it again. Next time, too. Then he's used to it. He was strong as a rock. Big muscles. Till he was 20, he used to go in the water in winter, and sleep without a blanket. Yixudu'as's wife was crying all the time, because her people had been killed by the C&Atqwan. That's why the boy was training to kill the CiAtqwan. . . . . . . The fight was in Sitka. DaxquwAdEn went down from Dry Bay to Sitka. They were going to have a peace dance, exchange hostages. They put feathers on their head and red paint, lexw (or le'i"), on their face. They call it kuwakan 'deer,' and peace dance. Each side takes one man from the other tribe. "DaxquwAdEn is sick. DaxquwAdEn is sick," they said, but he just pretended. He's ready for the fight. He hid a spear under his clothes. He goes over there. "What you go there for? Leave them alone." "No, I can't. My mother is crying." He open the door. The people just go to the end of the house, diyE. They just go in the end rooms. It's just full of Kagwantan and C&Atqwan people. Then he killed eight people with one spear thrust. They used tsagAl in fights?a knife tied on the end of a stick. He killed all the C^Atqwan. All the Kagwantan had knives in then- pockets. On the other side of Sitka, they put the dead bodies there. They call the place Foxtcikanu [? obviously an error in my transcription], meaning that the waves sound funny when it [the tide ?] is going out. Just one C^Atqwan was left over there?one little boy. He hid in the gravehouse. He was there without eating. After a while they found him. He was just skinny. The man who found him asked: "What's your name?" The boy told him his name was Qa-tlen, 'Big IN THREE PARTS MYTH, LEGEND, AND MEMORY 281 Man.' It was his father's name.71 [So the man drop his big knife. He was so down-hearted he don't want to kill him . . . . . . . My grandma [father's mother] was about 10 years old when they stayed with the sister of Yixudu'as. He was my grandma's uncle [mother's brother]. Yixudu'as was laughing and singing that his son killed all those C^Atqwan. He called: "Hi !" [high pitch]. They call that when somebody kills someone . . . . They killed them to pay off, to even off . . . . . . . In 1922 or 1925 they had peacetime in Sitka, real peace this time. They put two big knives on the dish, one for C^Atqwan and one for Kagwantan, and put the American flag over them. Then they take it off. It was real peace this time. But still they get mad at us. They aren't satisfied. [The informant mentioned a G&Atqwan man of her acquaintance who "even now won't shake hands with me."] That's why we Kagwantan women, we stay with our husbands. If we see something wrong, we don't know it [i.e., overlook our husbands' faults], because we don't want our brothers to get killed [if a fight starts]. Kagwantan men respect their wives, too. They think about that KiksAdi woman. [The informant sang a song composed by two Kag- wantan men, mourning those slain in this war; 1954, 3-1-A, -D; March 21, 1954.] Two men made it. It is called Kackisn's song? Kacktiii daciyi . . . . They say it was their own craziness. That's the way the song is. That's her own doing like that, that [caused] the war going on over there. That's why people died over there. Those two, five Kagwantan . . . . They take the wife away, Kagwan- tan's wife. That's why those five people go after their wife. That's why they got a war. Some old people tried to stop it. They said: "Let her go, that wife. Those C^Atqwan can have that wife." Those young people want to war about it. That's why this song is sung like that. [The words of the song seem to mean:] It's your own fault, Wolf people, You wounded yourselves. [Second stanza:] Always longing for you, My uncles, I want to dream about you. Just two Kagwantan got saved over there: Kack^n and Lxudagege. . . . 71 Qa-tten is a Dry Bay Tlukwa?Adi name, which could indeed have been that of the Kagwantan's father. This means that the boy was a Raven. [The following was told by Harry K. Bremner in answer to a query as to whether a peace hostage, kuwakan, had ever been killed. This story properly belongs to the Sitka Kagwantan, but is not much told at Sitka because of the enmity it rouses. (May 2, 1954.)] [The informant had never heard of a kuwakan being killed.] Never. The only time it happened in the history is in the Sitka war against Wrangell. They killed all the kuwakans at once. That's the only [case I heard of]. . . . Sitka Kagwantan?-they're the ones. I forget the name of the man, the one that's the cause of the trouble. They [Wrangell people] took his wife away from him. But he don't care. He called that man his brother, so he don't care. [The Sitka Kagwantan man and the Wrangell man were the sons of half-brothers, and though in different Eagle-Wolf sibs were "just like real brothers. That's Indian custom" for paternal parallel cousins like this to call each other brother and to share wives. "That's the way it happened over there."] That Kagwantan, his [the Wrangell man's] father's brother's son, stay at Wrangell, and [the Wrangell man] took his wife away, because that's the Indian custom. They always take the oldest brother's wife away. It's fine and dandy with him. He went back to Sitka. So his whole tribe called him a coward [because] he didn't do anything. So he go back. He change his mind. He don't want to do anything to his own brother?just want to take his wife back, so everybody would shut up. Instead of that, his brother killed him. So they reported back to Sitka what happened. So the Kagwantan go over to make peace and pay this man's life [presumably to get paid for the Kagwantan that had been killed]. On the way, they find one of the leaders over here [i.e., a Wrangell leader]. His name is YAntAn tcit (or YAnliAk tcit). T6it?-that means "sea bird" [murrelet]. He was one of the headmen of the C&Atqwan. . . . Him and his wife, they found him in a canoe. So they take him in the war canoe, and they do lots of things to him. They take him as a coward [GAtxan?'coward;' berdache or homosexual]. This man said: "If you Kagwantan want to kill me, kill me. [Or] Put a feather on top of my head." That means peace. [They were not torturing him.] No, those fellows were just fooling around with him. No harm?just funning with him. So those C^Atqwan, they know it right away. That's why they come in war canoe. The Kagwantan land. . . . When they see that Wrangell bunch is coming on the war canoes, they put that feather on the head, but it's too late [i.e., they tried to treat their captive as a peace hostage]. They 282 SMITHSONIAN CONTRIBUTIONS TO ANTHROPOLOGY VOLUME 7 [CiAtqwan] get mad already. When they land, those C^Atqwan are ready [for] that war canoe. YAnikn-tcit says: "Did you get my gun?" They already had guns at that time. He gets his gun. He shoots the Kagvvantan in a bunch. That's when they start a war?kill all the Kagwantan. Just one left, I think. He went back to Sitka. No more Kagwan- tan. . . . Two Kagwantan canoes were saved. One is named Tcatl yakw?in English it's a 'Halibut Canoe.1 I forget the other one. . . . [At Sitka, the elder Kagwantan had a meeting.] Just a few old ones have a meeting, decide what to do. They decide next generation [will seek revenge??]. Anyway this happened. This man here, he was born at 'Akwe?that Kag- wantan baby. I don't know how many years after. And his grandfather was gray and old when he took this baby. He said: "This is the Kagwantan that's going to revenge, this boy." [It was DaxquwAdiin]. So he train him. The Indian people believe at that time, [those who] are trained from the icy water be- come brave and strong. So it's a baby yet, his grand- father took him in the water before daylight?ice water. And that's the way he raise him till he become a man. When this man was old enough to understand things, his grandfather tell him a story, about what the C?Atqwan did to the Kagwantan. And he did it. He killed all those C&Atqwan?women, kids, everyone. No one left. No opposite tribe [i.e., he killed all the wives and children, too]. The C^Atqwan [women were] coming down with their husbands?he kill them all. He killed everything. I think it's not too long ago. I don't know how many years ago. My father tells the story. . . . This man that took in DaxquwAd?n where they were dancing as kuwakan [peace officers], he's got canoe sails. He put it around him, that man, and he [DaxquwAdfen] hide. That's the way he walk into that house. He's going to fight. And this man [who smuggled him into the peace dance] was still living when my father see him, not too long ago. The Sitka Kagwantan, some of them didn't want a war. These Wrangell people were coming to Sitka for peace. So the good time was going on already, peace dance, everything. But this man, DaxquwAd^n, he still want revenge. But his own people don't want it. He's all by himself in the community house at the time. Everybody goes [had gone] to that dance. He's always by himself. . . . [The following was added later, to explain how DaxquwAdEn had come to change his mind. He had originally agreed to the peace.] He give up already, himself. When the Kagwantan were talking to him, they don't want no war. He already change his mind. But just those Wrangell people, C&Atqwan, carried on their words?talk too wild. That makes the Kagwan- tan mad again. They talk too wild. Those Kagwantan boys, young fellows, came to a person. He was working on his fishook, nAxw?fishhook for halibut. And the young fellows, these Kagwantan boys, they come to him and say: "What's the name of your hook?" [All halibut hooks are carved to represent something living, and are named.] And this C^Atqwan said: "It's a brave hook," he said. "It's brave." He said: "It's a 'Anda Yel." That's where the Kagwantan people got killed?'Anda. That's where the Kagwantan were defeated. And he calls his hook, "It's 'Anda Yel." ['Raven at the End of the Village'?] And he said again, "That Raven eating the human body at 'Anda That's a Raven," he said, "eating Kagwantan body?Raven." So those boys don't like it. They reported to their uncles what this man said. And those other Kagwantan boys coming to the other Wrangell man. Oh, they were just talking to each other. They take up that man's gun and said, "Your gun is crooked." "Yes, it's crooked," he said, "but it was the best gun at 'Anda," he said. "I get two in one shot with that gun," he said. So the Kagwantan don't like it. And they say that's how DaxquwAdlsn has already changed his mind, then he gets mad again. . . . [DaxquwAdEn was alone in the house, while the others had gone to the peace dance.] His grandfather was helping him. He had it?tsagAl', 'spear'?so long [both arms outstretched]. The handle was wood?something like mahogany. They don't have it in Alaska. It drifts ashore. Sometimes a lucky man finds it on the beach. They use it for the bow, for bow and arrow. That's what they use it for, that handle [for the spear]. He was practicing all the time. Nobody was around, when they went from the house. He ran around with the spear. When he go into a room like this, it's too long. But it's good to be long, so nobody [can] rush [him]. His grandfather keeps cutting it, until it's about that long [from fingers of one outstretched arm to the elbow of the other]. When he goes in the room with it, it's handy. He practice from room to room, and [the spear] is just right. It's short. But his grandfather told him: "It's too short. You're going to get killed before you revenge Kagwantan." But the brave man said, "No. This is just right." Before that [before the time that he went to kill them], he was coming to that place, to have a dance. Just to see how the people are [sitting], and who the IN THREE PARTS MYTH, LEGEND, AND MEMORY 283 people were. His song is sung in there. He composed it himself?just half of it. [The kuwakan (peace hostages) were dancing.] He was coming to that place?in peace. He [DaxquwAd?n] sing a song and he dance?but just half of that song. After he ended, he said: "The generation after me is going to compose the end of my song." He already told it [by that] he's not going to be living tomorrow, he's dead today. But just the same, the C#Atqwan were too slow. He already tell them: "That's going to be the end of my song. Next generation after me is going to finish my song." And his song, that's his song tells it to them already, that he's going to have a war with them, but just the same they're too slow, don't catch on. When he finished, he walked right out. He don't wait. And he dressed up for war. . . . I don't know how he dressed. He had a blanket around him. And he painted his face with black. That's for war. On the eyes. That means war. [The narrator showed how he put black paint on the heels of his palms and rubbed these on his eyes.] After he [had been] dancing in there for a while, he went in there [outdoors??] just to see the town standing, how it looks. It was moonlight, at night. Lots of people in the village, on the street. He didn't mention where he was going, or said where he was going when he dressed up for war. Every person he meet on the street, he said, "I'm going now." He said it close to the face [i.e., putting his face close to the face of the person he met]. Nobody say a word. Next one he meet again, in a little whiles? "I'm going now." And nobody ask him where he's going. Just before he came to the door, he met an old man. But that man is grandson of Kagwantan. No matter how old [young] you are, you call them "grandson." And DaxquwAdsn said: "Grandson." But it's an old man, older than him. "Grandson, I'm going now." And that old man stopped looking at his face, and encouraged him. And at the same time the old man said: "You're going to jump into a giant devilfish." That's all. "You're going to jump into a giant devilfish." Then the big brave man, he's got a tear in his eyes. It's not for his life. He's not going to revenge his tribe. He thinks it's that way?[that] he's going to be killed before he kills anybody. He stopped for a while, and cried. He don't hold them back. After he stopped crying he said: "Hu! Hu! Hu! Hu!" That means war. And he put black on his face again. [The narrator made the same gesture of grinding the heels of his palms against his eyes.] But that man took him [in the house]. I don't know if he's brother-in-law [i.e., the nakani, or 'sib brother-in- law' who officiates at a peace dance]. I don't know, I can't tell that one. He had that war canoe sail around him, that man. And he hides that man behind him, that's how he walk in. As soon as they take him inside, he took his sail?he used it for a blanket?took it off, and put it to the side. He [DaxquwAdEn] had brown bear ears on his head. He tied them up with a string, I think. That means it's for war. He said to the C&Atqwan: "It's your father's slave you got a war with? Is this your father's slave, you had a war with them before? Before you pay the life, you tried to make a peace." That's the way he said. [The narrator explained:] In Tlingit, it's that way: Your father's slave, you can do anything to him. You're the boss. If you want to kill it, you can kill it, because it's your father's slave. [He agreed that DaxquwAd^n was saying "You treat us like dirt."] That C^Atqwan, that one I don't know. He's stand- ing by the door. He's a strong man, almost a giant. His wrist, right here?everytime they tell the story, they put their wrists together [to show] they're so big. He stands by the door. If there's any trouble, he's going to stop it?on the C&Atqwan side. When he look at that man's face [DaxquwAdiin's face], he don't do anything. He just smile at him. He never move, he never say nothing. I don't know if he's nakani [brother- in-law] to C&Atqwan, or anything. So that Kagwantan brave, he don't use his spear to kill that man. He just push him with his spear out of the way. And he fell against the wall and his head is busted. He's so strong, that Kagwantan brave. Then he use his spear?-take two at a time. And every one that's sitting there [is] helping him, all those Kagwantan braves. All those Kagwantan sons help, too, but they don't mention it afterwards. [These were the sons of Kagwantan fathers.] And Kagwantan sons, they all help, too. It was opposite tribe [i.e., the sons were Ravens]. [The Kagwantan and the C&Atqwan, too, we gather, had come with knives and guns.] Kagwantan on this side, and Wrangell on this side? that's peace. This one dancing, and that one dancing after a while. [The Kagwantan] had knives ready, under their blankets or their shirts. They're supposed to search. Nakani in a peace are supposed to search to see if they got anything. . . . [The Kagwantan kuwakan had knives.] They sew it to the skin before they became kuwakan. Kagwantan did it. To their own skin?right here [inside of the left thigh]. They don't search for gun here, they search up here [body and chest]. They sew it down here, to the 284 SMITHSONIAN CONTRIBUTIONS TO ANTHROPOLOGY VOLUME 7 skin. . . . Kuwakan is 4 day's dance. Two days, I think [they wore the knives]. Supposed to be 4 days. DaxquwAd?n didn't wait that long. . . . I forget the name of that one brave man, C^Atqwan. He had eagle tails, one in each hand, but he hold two pistols under them when he danced. Way before that DaxquwAd?n came in, he told his people to go ahead, kill the Kagwantan, start another war with the Kag- wantan. He knows what's going to happen. But they refuse him. . . . Anyway, he still there yet. When he had killed about half those C&Atqwan, that DaxquwAdin saw that man on the floor, that C#Atqwan brave. He play dead. Soon as DaxquwAdfn come close to him, he sat up with the pistols. DaxquwAdfin thought that's enough, he had killed enough. He just put up his spear like that [holding the spear horizontally above his head]. [The C^Atqwan shot at him.] But the gun don't go off. The hammer's gone. The other one don't go off. Nobody knows what happened. I think he lost the ammunition that time. So then DaxquwAdEn killed him. . . That house they had a war in is Qukw hit/Box House.' It's still there yet [in Sitka], They said about 4 feet all around [the inside of the walls] is red after that war's over. And that house in Sitka today is still there?not the same house, built not long ago. They paint it red, just Hke it used to be. . . . The next one [episode], I don't know much. They [CiAtqwan] came back. They don't reach Sitka. I don't know what happened to them. . . . The Kagwantan just chase them back. [The story of this incident is not told, now that peace has been made.] . . . If his people were agreeing with him [the C&Atqwan], he was going to kill all the Kagwantan again. But his people don't want it. . . . [When questioned if the heads of the victims were taken:] Just the hair. Not all of them, just the big ones. CiAtqwan took Kagwantan heads off in the first war? just big shots. So Kagwantan got them, too, the big shots, big names. Not small men like me, they wouldn't bother me, they wouldn't cut my hair off. Big ones. [The informant was not certain what was done with the scalps so taken.] I don't know. . . . They used them in a potlatch?I don't know the law of that one. [When the scalp was hung up, the hair moved.] That's just only one person?that brave C&Atqwan man. Spinning all the time, hanging up, never stop. All the others are hanging there, but his never stops spin- ning all the time. . . . [In discussing this war, Minnie Johnson added, May 23, 1954] At that ANB convention in Angoon they made peace. They stop talking to one another, they got that argu- ment in their hearts, but at that convention they go together, that ANB, so they have that brotherly love. Make them shake hands with them?1926. [HKB added:] Still bad feeling even today. Still bad feeling. Even the young ones?. An Averted War With the Tsimshian The waters off Icy Bay were famous sea-otter hunt- ing grounds, visited by hunting parties from distant areas, although the hunt was supposedly controlled by the leading Kwac?qwan chief. These parties of hunters were often brought up from southern Alaska or from British Columbia on sailing ships, as a White financial venture. Other parties of natives came in their own canoes. It was in these waters that the Yakutat natives nearly had a war with the Tsimshian. The following story was narrated in Tlingit by Annie Johnson, a Kwac&qwan woman born about 1875, who also sang the commemorative song based on the incident. These were recorded, as well as the translation by Minnie Johnson (1952, 3-1-C; July 13, 1952). The tune is apparently that of an older song, to which Ckinan, Tl'uknaxAdi, Minnie Johnson's mother's "brother," put new words. The characters in the story are Yakutat Chief George Yaxodaqet, head of the ranking Kwack- qwan lineage, Raven's Bones House, and as such, "owner" of the Icy Bay hunting grounds. His ordinary name was Qa?wAtxe'tc (heard also as Kauqatqdtc, etc). He was born before 1862 and died about 1903. B. A. Jack, Wasfx (or Watsix), also Kwac&qwan, was born in 1860 and died in 1948. Txak-'ic, also Kwaciqwan, was called Nanut, and had the English name, Shorty. Clarence Milton, born 1918, is his namesake. These events occurred when Minnie Johnson, born 1884, was a little girl, and the natives were living at the Old Village, probably after 1890. [The following version of the story is based upon the recorded translation, supplemented by explanations given later the same day, but not recorded on tape. There has been a slight editing of some of the phrasing.] This song that we just got through singing, I was asked to translate it in English, so I'll try. . . . That's Ckinan's song. Somebody composed it, but he put the words for it. Because it's about how those Tsimshian came in four big war canoes. They used to go sea-otter hunting to Ivy Bay, to Yakategy, in little canoes, t61yac. . . . I was only a kid when this happened, when those four war canoes came up from Metlakatla to Yakutat. They generally travel all the way up from there to Yakutat. . . . Chief George is taking care of them. IN THREE PARTS MYTH, LEGEND, AND MEMORY 285 They all start together and went to the place where they hunt. . . . So the Yakutat people is ready to go to Yakategy and Icy Bay. In the springtime they go there to hunt sea otter. They went as far as Yakategy. They were hunting for sea otter. You know, long time ago there is no such a thing as gun or revolver here in Yakutat. They use bow and arrow and they go up sea-otter hunting with it. But these Tsimshians got all kinds of guns, revolvers, and big guns, and all that. . . . The Yakutat people has to load shells themselves, and use tcun6t [bow and arrow], and get after the sea otter until it is short winded, and that is the way they kill it. . . . So they went out together to kill those sea otters. The Yakutat people know how to hunt sea otter. They get after the sea otter until it gets short winded. It's easy to hit them with bow and arrow. . . . The canoe is chasing from one end of the water to the other. Sometimes it goes way out of sight of shore. . . . So this sea otter was hit by Chief George with his bow and arrow. At the same time this Tsimshian got his gun out and take a shot at it. And he claimed that his gun killed the sea otter. They are way out. They didn't even see the mountains, they were so far out [when] they chase the sea otter. Then one of the Tsimshian jumped in Chief George's canoe and grabbed the sea otter and throw it in the war canoe. And Chief George's outfit didn't like that very good. That's an awful insult the way they do?come all the way up here from Metlakatla to get sea otter from Chief George which he's entitled to it. He is the one?his bow and arrow killed that. Every canoe that's around there?everyone that's around in the canoes sees that Chief George killed that sea otter. The Tsimshians tried to claim it, and then they grabbed that sea otter and throw it in the big war canoe. Well, this here fellow, his Tlingit name is Txak-'ic, and his English name is Clarence [his English name was Shorty; Clarence now has his Tlingit name]?he took a tumble and jump aboard the war canoe, and he just walk through the Tsimshians and step on the cross pieces of that war canoe, and grabbed that sea otter and threw it back in Chief George's canoe. . . . Trouble begin. All the Tsimshians got revolvers. The Yakutat people got nothing with which to defend themselves. . . . And then they start a war right in the water where they can hardly see the mountains. They didn't even know where they are, but they get in a war. And the Tsimshians are getting ready to get every native in Yakutat killed. The Tsimshians intend that, to kill every native. They took their revolvers and their guns out, but the Yakutats got nothing but bow and arrow. They got guns enough [i.e., muzzle- loaders], but you know they got to load the guns themselves. At that time there's no such thing as ready shells. You have to load it by hand at that time. [See pp. 186-187]. That was a long time ago. I was only a little girl then when I see those four war canoes myself, landed in front of this village. Then a fellow by the name of B. A. Jack?his Tlingit name is Watsii (or Wa?ix)?being he's traveled around Southeast of Alaska and he happened to be in Metlakatla, I guess. And he knows the meaning of this Gmo [probably klnau; rendered as Mnayu in the song]. Gino, that's Tsimshian word. He just got up and say it, raised his right hand and said "Gmo!" All at once this here fellow that seems to be a head of the Tsimshian?he's big, husky, and got a patch on his eye?-he order the four canoe load of Tsimshian to get their weapons down, get their guns down, be quiet. That means, Mr. B. A. Jack demonstrates to the sea-otter hunters that means "That's enough!" and "No more trouble!" So this song that we sing here regards to that. The words are about that Gmo business. So you hear the song, the song composed by Ckman, he's my uncle. It's composed like that: "Grab hold of the word that means Gmo! so every- body can use it." That's what the Yakutats captured from the Tsimshian. They know what that means, and find out from Mr. B. A. Jack what that Gino means. So the song is composed like that: "Grab hold of that word, so everybody can hear it, and keep it, captured." So that can be remembered by what happened, by what that Gmo means to the Yakutats, [when] those Tsimshians intended to get into war with the Yakutat. But this word Gmo means "Quit fighting!" So this song is composed about it. "Grab hold of that Gino! So everybody can hear it!" So they captured this song. That's when it was com- posed. That's all I can remember. And on the way back from Yakategy, before they start to Icy Bay, one of the Tsimshian saw this sea lion. . . . They went ashore. And he tried to grab his gun out of the canoe. He's supposed to take a shot at the sea lion, but instead the gun went off by accident, and killed his mother's husband, his stepfather- killed Viim dead. So they can't leave the body in Icy Bay. . . . The Tsimshian don't want to get one of the people's spirits in the hunting ground. So this Patch-Eye, big, husky fellow went to work. . . . He's some kind of doctor amongst the Tsimshian people. They took the body down as far as Icy Bay, where he get operated on. [The doctor] took his insides out from him, and [then] they take his dead body down to Yakutat. . . . And they put the body in a tent. 286 SMITHSONIAN CONTRIBUTIONS TO ANTHROPOLOGY VOLUME 7 The boy who shot the man was watching him so the flies don't get in. . . . That's all I remember. The glacier has been a way out. The natives here claim that because they buried human guts in that place, the glacier is retreating now. . . . Because the inside part of the man that got killed is buried in that ice, that's why the glacier is melting away so fast. The glacier used to be sticking out, but now you can hardly see any glacier there. . . . I suppose warm weather has something to do with it. Mud Bay is called TsutsxAn geyi, 'Tsimshian Bay.' It's on the west side of Icy Bay. [Pp. 26-28, 95, 97.] [After listening to a Teqwedi "walking song" with Tsimshian words (1954, 6-I-G), a type used by guests at a potlatch, Louise Peterson, a Kwad?qwan woman, observed (May 16, 1954):] There's one time they have a kind of war with the Tsimshian over to Icy Bay. Mrs. George Johnson spoke about it [cf. the account recorded 1952, 3-I-C, translated above]. There's lots of songs like that they [Tsimshian] gave for forgiveness, and I guess that's the time they got that song. [Another couple, Olaf and Susie Abraham, who heard this recording, were of the opinion that Old Sampson, Yandulsin (1866-1948), had composed the tune, while Ckman made the words. At that time, if any strangers came to Yakutat, or any ship came in, Chief George used to welcome them to his house as Chief Minaman had done previously.] Geological Changes in the Yakutat Area A number of native traditions, as we have seen, report movements of glaciers. Some of these accounts refer to the remote past, and others to events within the memory of living persons. Some are of such a mythical nature that they are discussed in a later section. Apparently after the glaciers that covered Icy Bay and most of Yakutat Bay at the time of the Kwaciqwan migration had retreated, a village was established in Icy Bay. Or, the site may have been up an estuary formed by the Yatse Kiver. This village was over- whelmed by a subsequent advance of the ice. A brief account of this event was recorded by Topham in 1888, and we heard a somewhat longer version. Both of these accounts should be compared with the incident re- corded by Swanton (1909, Tale 104, pp. 337 f.) in which a glacier destroyed Shadow House and Sandhill Town, somewhere on the coast north of Cross Sound, and so forced the emigration of the Kagwantan to Grouse Fort. The advance here, and that in Icy Bay, probably culminated in the 18th century. Tarr and Martin (1914, pp. 46 f.), who quote the story from Topham, believe that the destruction of the village in Icy Bay took place between 1837 when Belcher sailed into "Icy Bay" (the mouth of the Yatse) and 1886 when Schwatka saw only a wall of ice (p. 28, map 15, p. 98) and the silted delta of the river. The ice was not quite so far advanced when Vancouver's expedition sighted Point Riou in 1791 (p. 000). ICY BAT [According to Topham (1889 a, pp. 432^33):] "I learned too, from George ["the second chief at Yakutat"], the origin of the name Yahtse'-tah. There is a tradition amongst his people, that formerly there was a large bay running up from the sea to the very foot of St. Elias; that there was a village at the head of that bay; that all around the village was swampy or muddy (Yahtse) ground; that the mountain was therefore called Yahtse-tah-shah, tah meaning harbor [t'A, 'bottom side,' Boas, 1917, p. 107], and shah [ca] meaning peak; that a river flowed into the bay from the north-west, where there were large glaciers; that the east of the bay was all ice, but the west, sand and trees; that at the mouth of the bay dwelt some Indians, and that one day an Indian came rushing home crying "Quick, quick, the ice is com- ing," pointing to the river down which the ice was seen to be rapidly advancing. The Indians escaped along the shore. The ice came on right across the bay, till it struck the opposite shore, when it turned and continued down the bay to the sea, swallowing the village in its course." [In a later article Topham (1889 b, p. 350) sum- marizes the above and adds:] "The Indian tradition states further that the ice subsequently descended and covered up the harbour, but the river which flows beneath that ice and descends into the sea close to where we were en- camped, is still called the Yats6tah-hein." [The following version was told by William Thomas, July 4, 1952.] There used to be a village at Mud Bay, just inside Icy Cape [Point Guyot]. My Dad told me: "Don't say anything bad or laugh at the glaciers." Here in olden days they had a place like Chicago Harbor [Eleanor Cove on the east side of Yakutat Bay]. There are high mountains, and the glacier is just coming over the mountain. They can see just a little piece of it. They were cooking king salmon. It was a king salmon stream. The young people who were doing it called to the glacier: "Hey! Eat something!" They did it just IN THREE PARTS MYTH, LEGEND, AND MEMORY 287 like they were giving it out at a party [serving food at a potlatch]. They were young people, just happy young boys. It was a mistake like, to invite the glacier to eat. They say afterwards, it start growing. It grew and covered everything. You can tell, too, it's true?all that story. Under the ice are young roots and you can still see the points of the trees just half sticking up. You can see the way the wood was all turned upside down. It's because the young boys invited the glacier out to dinner. It's some place in Icy Bay. There used to be a river there. Maybe it don't look that way now. [Additional observations cited as evidence by the informant are quoted on pp. 97-98.] RUSSELL FIORD [Tarr (Tarr and Butler, 1909, p. 128) reports:] "A very old Yakutat native, without knowing my interest in glacial recession, stated to me, as translated by my boatman Henry, that he remembered the time when this glacier [Nunatak] extended as far as Marble Point [in Russell Fiord]." [Beasley or Fourth Glacier also cut off the head of Russell Fiord making an ice-dammed lake. About the middle of the last century, this barrier broke, releasing the lake waters, which no longer drained down the Situk River. This event was described by Harry K. Bremner, whose father was a young man at the time. The latter died when his son was 16, i.e., about 1910.] The people were near the lake, picking strawberries. Great numbers of wonderful, big strawberries grew all around the lake. There were so many that everybody would go out to pick them. The younger men [boys in their teens?] had the job of just carrying basketful after basketful of the picked berries to load them in the war canoes. That was what my father was doing. Every time he came back to the boat, he found that it was going dry, so he would push it off into deeper water before going back for another load. When this happened a few times he realized that the water was really going down. He reported back to the people: "The river is going down!" Everybody ran and got into the canoes and started down the stream. Suddenly a big wall of salt water rushed downstream. Everybody got away safely. There was still enough water in the stream for the canoes. But after that, Situk River was just a little one. [HKB, July 11, 1952.] [Jack Ellis, in 1940, when traveling with Harrington in Russell Fiord, spoke of some event which may have been related to the retreat of the ice.] When telling myths they tell of Tshaa 'iittii, literally 'the backside of Seal Rock,'?not the bay, but the land there. Big catastrophe was when four lakes became three. [No further details are given.] FALLING GLACIERS IN DISENCHANTMENT BAY One of the small glaciers, 1,000 feet high on the western wall of Disenchantment Bay, opposite Haenke Island, Tarr and Butler (1909, pp. 67 f.) called "Fallen Glacier" because the whole mass of ice fell into the water on July 4, 1905, after a rainstorm. Its crash produced waves that rose and fell for half an hour some 15 to 20 feet on the shore of Russell Fiord about 15 miles away where Tarr was working. Later examina- tion showed that a huge wave, 110 feet high, had broken off the alder bushes half a mile south of the site of the crash, and had also swept to a height of 115 feet on the northwest end of Haenke Island. Bushes a mile away were uprooted for 30 feet above the waterline. "The Indians stated that this was the third time the glacier had fallen; but on questioning them it was evident that the tradition merely referred to a glacier falling from the west side of the bay, and not specifically to this one. The last fall, which is said to have occurred about sixty years ago [1845], is reported to have destroyed a hundred Indians who at the time of the fall were at the summer sealing camp a few miles south of Haenke Island. It is said that only one of the Indians in the camp was saved. It is fortunate that in 1905 the Indians had left the bay before the glacier fell, for it is hardly conceivable that their canoes could have lived in the floating ice during the passage of such waves as this glacier avalanche generated in their sealing ground." [Tarr and Butler, 1909, p. 68.] [An earlier catastrophe of this kind was described by Jack Ellis to Harrington in 1940.] The following WuganiyE story happened long before [the massacre] [see pp. 261-270], and is a legend. The olden people always wanted to see food respected and used in the proper way, and when camped at WuganiyE some of the younger people were throwing young sea- gulls alive into the fire. The proper way was to cut [the] heads off and pluck them like a chicken. [They] used to eat young seagulls (fledglings) much. And all of a sudden a glacier, now only a tiny canyon glacier straight opposite WuganiyE, and it came as such a sudden slide, it killed many of the young people camped at WuganiyE across the bay. [Compare with the story of the Alsek flood, p. 276.] THE YAKUTAT EARTHQUAKE, 1899 The most important event within the memories of the older people is the great earthquake of 1899. At that time there were no longer any people living on 288 SMITHSONIAN CONTRIBUTIONS TO ANTHROPOLOGY VOLUME 7 Khantaak Island, since they had moved to the Old Village on the mainland north of the mission. The graveyard was at Point Turner on the island. Geologists who studied the effects of the earthquake had to rely on the testimony of residents at Yakutat, both White and native. Thus Tarr (Tarr and Butler, 1909, p. 92) reports that the earthquake "was of un- usual vigor" with shocks lasting throughout a period of 17 days, those of September 10 and September 15 being the worst. As we know, the center was on the west side of Disenchantment Bay [p. 28]. "The people living at Yakutat, the nearest in- habited point, report long-continued and terrifying shaking of the ground. Some prospectors camping near Variegated Glacier [east of Hubbard Glacier at the northern end of Russell Fiord] make a similar report, adding to it the statement that the most violent shakings were accompanied by noises like thunder, as huge avalanches of snow and rock descended from the neighboring mountain slopes. . . . The Yakutat natives declare that in places the 'face of the mountains was totally changed,' and my observations lead me to accept this statement as essentially true." [Tarr and Butler, 1909, p. 92.] [The following account was given by Minnie Johnson who was a young girl at the time:] Then they lived at Old Yakutat near the mission. This was when the earthquake came?like thunder. The earth shook and our water barrel fell over. My mother told me not to run into the house. The mis- sionary had a big tent and put it on top of the hill and we stayed up there. [Apparently many native families took shelter there.] The bay was full of logs and stumps and driftwood, and the water came right up to the houses. Some people thought Yakutat would be washed away, and they went off in a schooner. Afterwards they came back. Somebody gave me and some other children a nickel apiece, and we went down to Beasley's store in the Old Village to get cookies. We had to jump over a crack in the ground back of the village where the salt water squirted up. Sometimes it would shoot up as high as a treetop. There was another crack back of the mission. My stepfather came to get me and my mother was just wild. The quakes lasted about a week, and every night my mother tied her children to her with ropes around our waists, in case something happened in the night. How I hated sleeping in that rope! My mother's mother and my mother's brother were buried out on the point of Khantaak Island (Point Turner), and my uncle on my father's side got all his people in a big war canoe. They went over there and they dug up the graves to save them from the water that was coming up. Just as they got my grand- ma's body out, the whole place collapsed into the water. [June 7, 1952; edited.] You know, my uncle Abraham had a war canoe on hand the time they had the earthquake. Just look how much respect they had for the dead people! This bay here was all covered up with stumps and stuff, and a big wave washed over the houses down in the village. I was at the mission then. And my grandmother and her sons were buried at the point of Khantaak. They tied them up. Everybody lined up in the water to move my grandmother's body away before that breaks. Just when they got that dug up, that whole point broke off. That whole Khantaak point moved like that. And they carried that body to a high place. [That reef was made then, it was explained later.] We all went over to that place, all tied up together with that big rope from my uncle down. GunEtkAnayi [opposite moiety] dug the body up, and the opposite tribe pack it back. All I remember is packing it up. Coming back we had difficulty. The canoe was just going round like that; you can't steer ahead. Stumps and trees just boiling in the bay. I think about it sometimes at night. They ought to[?] lose their lives putting a dead person in a safe place! That's why the people, long time ago, they believed, they don't want to disgrace their tunAX kugwAsti& [progeny, descendants]. They got to be good, or else there'll be a mark on their tunAX kugwAstii?offspring. Their offspring will be marked if you [they] do any- thing wrong. Will have no respect. That's why you got to be brave and honest, or your tunAX kugwAstix will be marked in the face. You have respect for them. [March 24, 1954.1 This informant's brother mentioned a 'sad song,' tuwunikw datx ci, which he intended to record, but never did. It referred to the destruction of the grave- yard "on S'US&A [Khantaak]; it broke down when the earth shook.. . . My uncle's coffin broke down. Dakeyti kawul?'his coffin broke down.' Two old ladies, Tl'uknaca, made the song." [Charley White; March 14, 1954.] History of the Frog House: Trouble Between the Ti'uknaxAdi and the KiksAdi at Sitka The history of the Frog crest, and particularly of Frog House, is worth reporting in some detail, since it illus- trates so clearly the importance of crests and named houses to the Tlingit, the historical justification for such claims, and the ways in which such rights are defended. IN THREE PARTS MYTH, LEGEND, AND MEMORY 289 It will be remembered that the Ti' uknaxAdi found a huge frozen white frog when they were digging the foundations of a house at Gusex, and that in con- sequence they named the building Frog House, decorat- ing it with Frog House Posts and a Frog Screen (pp. 272-273). Personal names based on the Frog were 'Old Frog' (Xixt6 cAn), 'Cold Skin' (Duksa'at), and 'Drown- ing' or 'Sinking' (YEnatA*). Later houses built at Dry- Bay in 1909 and 1915 were also named Frog House and contained Frog Screens (cf. pp. 318-319). No one in the Yakutat-Dry Bay area disputed the Tl'uknaxAdi right to Frog House, but in Sitka it was a very different matter, for here the Tl'uknaxAdi found themselves opposed by the KiksAdi, Ravens like themselves, but more powerful. The latter say that they were the first settlers at Sitka and that they were responsible for driving the Russians out in 1802. They also claim the Frog as theirs alone. Therefore, when the Tl'uknaxAdi attempted to dedicate a Frog House at Sitka, the jealous KiksAdi were roused to anger. This happened in the winter of 1902-03 (?), shortly before Swanton's visit to Sitka in January-March, 1904, and when Jack Ellis, born in Sitka in 1892, was still a small boy. The latter's version of the episode, told in 1949, was: The Tl'uknaxAdi at 'Akwe had a Frog House. Some moved to Sitka and built a Frog House there. Then the KiksAdi who also claimed the Frog, came into the house and chopped the frog down. Jack Ellis was scared that his uncle would shoot them and start a fight. The KiksAdi were cowards, for they waited to come until there was only one Tl'uknaxAdi there. [Swanton (1908, p. 416) mentions the event as follows:] "The frog was a special possession of the KlksA'dt, who claimed it from the fact that persons of their clan had had special dealings with frogs, although the stories told about them at Sitka and Wrangell differ. The QanAXA'df of Tongas tell the same story as the Wrangell KlksA'dl about the marriage of a woman of their clan to a frog, and probably claim the frog also. In recent years the QatcAd! at Wrangell and the T!iu'k!naxA'di at Sitka have tried to adopt the frog, but in the latter case their attempt to put up the frog carving precipitated a riot." Swanton probably heard of this episode from his informant, Katlian, chief of the Sitka KiksAdi, since his note reflects the KiksAdi point of view. Most of the accounts which we heard at Yakutat were from Tl'uk- naxAdi informants, and so naturally express their side, although some reports are from persons unrelated to either sib. Although the trouble was over 50 years old when we were last hearing about it in 1954, yet it would be rash to assume that it is "settled," even today. KIKSADI CLAIMS TO THE FBOG The KiksAdi claims to the Frog are based upon at least two different, episodes, one involving marriage to a frog, and the other the finding of a frog. Some of my Tl'uknaxAdi informants had read Swanton's Tlingit Myths and Texts (1909), for at least one copy had passed from hand to hand before my first visit in 1949, and after this was destroyed in a fire, I replaced it with another copy, at the request of the original owner. Those who told about the trouble with the KiksAdi had read the stories which the latter tell about their frog, and the Yakutat people were apparently also familiar with other versions of the same tales. According to the first story (Tale 22), told at Sitka by Dekina'kw, a Box House Kagwantan man, a chief's daughter in the Yakutat country said something which displeased the frogs. One appeared to her in human form, took her to the frogs' home under the water, and married her. When her own people finally took her back and drained out of her all the mud she had eaten, she died. "Because this woman was taken away by the frog tribe at that place, the frogs there can understand human beings very well when they talk to them. It was a KrksA'dl woman who was taken off by the frogs, and so those people can almost understand them. They also have songs from the frogs, frog personal names, and the frog emblem. All the people know about them" (Swanton, 1909, p. 54). It is hard to understand why the scene of this story is set in Yakutat, which is not and has never been KiksAdi country, unless the woman is supposed to be the daughter of a mother who had married into Yakutat, or unless the narrator confused the KiksAdi with people at Gusex. Swanton (1909, p. 53, note a), in referring to Story 76, another version of the same tale, remarks that "This myth is more often localized at Wrangell, and the woman's name is said to have been Qaltsi'xklt." In this version, told by the mother of Katishan, chief of the Raven Kasqlague'df, the frogs are all killed and the woman survives. My Tl'uknaxAdi informants did not approve of these stories. "I read in the book you gave me (Swanton, 1909, Tale 22) how the KiksAdi claim the frog. See how that story is mixed up. They claim right here in Yakutat that man went under the lake and met that queen of frogs. A frog spirit captured that man." Another woman to whom this story had been read expostulated that it was "not true. . . . That one goes that xixtc just fell in the lake back there. And that woman went in the lake. And that xixt6 'anqawu king? and she married to him. And pretty soon they make that lake dry, and try to take that woman away from that xixt6, take that woman in the house. And they say that woman is KiksAdi! No KiksAdi here! Ice was here. They never see xixtfc until ice was melted away. Just so much they want to claim that xixtc, they don' 290 SMITHSONIAN CONTRIBUTIONS TO ANTHROPOLOGY VOLUME 7 care [what they say]." The informant had not heard the story until she read it "in that old-fashioned book." Tales 66 and 95 tell how a man and his KiksAdi wife, while in a canoe somewhere near Sitka, heard a frog singing. Both claimed it, but finally the man let his wife have it as a crest for her people. This tale is accepted by my informants, although they feel that their claim is at least equal, if not superior, because they found their frog first; it was found in the ground, not floating on the ocean or washed ashore on the beach; and anyway, two different frogs are involved. "The KiksAdi found their frog on the ocean beach? afterwards. But TluknaxAdi got theirs from the ground. They just want to be somebody. "The KiksAdi tried to chase the Tl'uknaxAdi back to Gusex. They got jealous. They chopped our xixt6 up. They don't like to see it. There was a fight through the court. Judge de Graaf is in Sitka at that time. It's in the history." (July 7, 1952.) "When the Tl'uknaxAdi built the Xixtc hit in Sitka, the KiksAdi busted up the Frog. That's the time they went to court. They went to court in Juneau, and the Kosledi and the ^afkA'ayi said they were going to be Tl'uknaxAdi then. Only just that KiksAdi was saying all the time, that they owned the Frog. Everytime they make totem pole they say xixtc is theirs. "We Tl'uknaxAdi don't say much about it. We just keep quiet. And we don't try to put it in the history.. . . "Yes, the Frog belongs to the KiksAdi. Long ago they get it out on the ocean in Sitka. They went hunting hair seal, and a big log drift on the ocean and there was a frog sitting on it, and he make a noise. So they claim it, but we don't try to take it away from them. "That's ours from inside, from Gusex. They weren't going to call it Xixtc hit, but when they dig up the frog, they call it that [i.e., Frog House]. That's a long time ago. It's before the KiksAdi found that frog in the ocean that they claim. "The GanAxtedi also claim the Frog. They told me that in Juneau. But they don't fight with us. They just keep on making it and keep quiet." Another informant, referring to the original Frog House at Gusex and its decorations: "They had that Frog for a totem pole [i.e., crest]. They had it for generations. That totem proves honestly that Frog business. It's ours. It's not the KiksAdi's." Neutral opinion, that is, as expressed by members of the opposite moiety, is that: "The KiksAdi frog was an old, old one, and they didn't like the Tl'uknaxAdi to get a new one." Or, there is a grudging admission that the KiksAdi were probably right, "because the Frog is more on their side." THE FBOG HOUSE AT SITKA [The following was told by a Tl'uknaxAdi informant at Yakutat.] X [a visitor to Yakutat in June, 1952] is KiksAdi. He is our enemy. KiksAdi is the one?-you hear about it??when that Frog was chopped up? It just happen 40 or 50 years ago. [The story of Gusex was sketched.] They [Tl'uknaxAdi] built a house in Sitka, Xixt6 hit [Frog House]. And they got the finest carvers together and they pay a lot of money. When that Frog goes right in the middle of the house, it sticks haKway out of the house wall. They chop it out, the KiksAdi tribe. Jack Ellis' mother [Elizabeth or Duqwetc], and his uncle [Stagwan], and Jack Ellis?he's just a little boy?they were just a few in there. It was after everybody eat, after they potlatch the opposite side. The KiksAdi just take it down and chop it down. Pretty near there was shooting over that. They went to the law for 2 or 3 years. Finally they settle. [The settle- ment was never explained.] The Tl'uknaxAdi got a lawyer. If it's a long time ago and there was no law, they would have slaughtered them?-every woman and child on the next night. Oh, that was a upset! Everybody was nervous?even up here. They just shove that man around here when he come back. "You coward! Why didn't you get a gun?" He is "uncle" to Jack Ellis [i.e., one of the Tl'uknaxAdi sponsors of the house]. . . . Oh, his brothers got mad at him. His sisters, too. "Who's going to die for you?" [This man seems, however, to have done his best to prevent bloodshed, and was apparently successful.] I was home when it happened. They called that house Xixt6 hit. . . . It was the next house to Yay hit [Whale House]. [The house to be named Frog House would seem to be that which Swanton (1909, p. 406) lists as Xl'na hit, 'house at the lower end of the town,' so-called because of its original position in a "town on Alsek river," (Gusex on the Akwe?). It was one door from Whale House and its chief was Stagwan.] Daniel Benson and Yel nawu carved it [the frog image] together. They were the best carvers. [Benson, Ceq'-'ic, later known as Daqusetc, was a Teqwedi artist at Yakutat, born about 1868 and still living in 1940. Ye! nawu, 'Dead Raven,' was the Sitka artist who painted the screen for Drum House in the Old Village, Yakutat (pi. 92).] And every thing was peaceful, but that confounded KiksAdi went in there, nighttime. Just Elizabeth, that Jack Ellis' mother, and Jack Ellis about that big [a small boy], and his grandmother [Mrs. Daknaqin, LtanEt] was down in Xixt6 hit. IN THREE PARTS MYTH, LEGEND, AND MEMORY 291 . . . They just watch their chance, when everybody's out, just Elizabeth, and Jack, and Stagwan in there. It's a dirty trick. They spend a lot of money on that [frog]. That man got punished for that. He got busted open. He's head of the KiksAdi, almost got into shooting scrape. ?u-xwatc, 'Blanket of Tanned Skin/ was head of KiksAdi. . . . And everybody get down on StAgwan. "Why didn't he kill that man?" And Elizabeth grab the gun; she was going to shoot it. But he grab that gun away from her and throw it down. She was going to shoot the people cutting up the Frog. . . . Her name would have been high amongst our people if she had killed that [KiksAdi] man. But that Stagwan grab the gun away. "You go to jail if you kill anybody." She just bite her nails. But what can a woman do? Her name would have been printed in a book. Get her name high. . . . She would have died in prison, just the same, but her name would have been up amongst us. Oh, it's a big trouble. A photograph (pi. 209) taken of the Tl'uknaxAdi sponsors of the potlatch, shows them posed in front of a big American flag, with a big carved wooden Frog, painted white, on a table. The Frog in the picture is the very one destroyed by the KiksAdi. AFTERMATH OP TEOUBLE AT SITKA The aftermath of this affair seems to have involved a legal case heard before a court in Juneau. It is not clear, however, whether this was a prosecution for breach of the peace, or, perhaps more likely, a suit for damages. In any case, it does not seem to have settled the rival claims. Thus, Dry Bay Chief George, the leading Tluk- naxAdi chief in that area, is said to have taken some Frog emblem to Sitka, but "while they are in the hands of the law there, they didn't pay any atten- tion. . . ." In 1909, a Frog Screen was taken from Dry Bay to Douglas near Juneau, and Dry Bay Chief George wanted to take another to Sitka, both ventures planned to establish Tl'uknaxAdi rights to the Frog. The Frog Houses built at Dry Bay in 1909 and 1915 (or 1925) (see p. 319), the beginning of another Frog House in Yakutat in 1950 by Jack Ellis, the carving of a Frog on the latter's tombstone, and the excitement when boards of a Frog Screen were reported at Dry Bay in 1952, all testify to continued Tl'uknaxAdi con- cern with this crest. The most interesting consequence was the action taken by the KiksAdi. This was explained by someone who showed me the photograph taken of the Sitka Tl'uknaxAdi and their frog emblem before it was installed in the house: "Xu-xwAtc was the KiksAdi that split up the frog. He warned: 'Don't put that frog on the outside. I'm going to split it up,' and he did. "It was sitting on a platform above the door, they tell me [just as it is in the photograph]. "After he split it up, he went to Ketchikan. Some- body made him a totem pole up high. He put Tl'uk- naxAdi stuff [crests] and stuff of another tribe on it to get even with them. He called it Ta gas, Sleep Pole. "Now the Tl'uknaxAdi got it. Before that old KiksAdi die, he said, 'Give it back to Tl'uknaxAdi. They're my grandfathers [i.e., his paternal grandfather was Tl'uknaxAdi]. I want to make peace before I die.' It's in Charley Kitka's house now in Sitka. He gave $700 to KiksAdi for it. He didn't want to get it free. "Kitka is a nice man. His Tlingit name is Qaniisgu- 'ic. Kitka's daughter is a college girl." The picture was entrusted to me, so that I could have copies made for the potlatch to be given in Juneau in the fall of 1954, by Frank Kitka, a Tl'uk- naxAdi man whose mother had just died. While the photographs could be made almost at once, my Tl'uk- naxAdi friends at Yakutat were disappointed that I was unable to send them, in time for the potlatch, phonograph records of the song for the Frog Screen, composed by Dry Bay George in 1909. They had hoped to play the song at the potlatch, and when recorded (1954, 2-2-D, 6-2-D), the song was preceded on the tape by an account in Tlingit of how the Frog had been found at Gusex. I do not know how this pot- latch may have affected the rival claims to the emblem. Sentiment in Yakutat, as expressed in 1952, can be summed up by what a Tl'uknaxAdi informant wanted to say to a KiksAdi visitor: "You are our enemy. We don't forget the Frog House." Yakutat Houses 294 SMITHSONIAN CONTRIBUTIONS TO ANTHROPOLOGY VOLUME 7 ABORIGINAL DWELLINGS AND OTHER STRUCTURES Meaning of the House The house (hit) of the Tlingit, that is, the real house usually occupied only during the late fall and winter, was more than a solidly built shelter against the cold. It symbolized for the inhabitant the whole social order, his place in lineage and sib, and his family ties with those of the opposite moiety. The house name, which usually referred to a lineage or sib crest, recalled the the days of his ancestors whose great adventures had secured this totemic emblem which, in turn, linked the maternal line of then- descendents with the order of nature. Other house names, although not derived from crests, were equally the property of the lineage or sib, and all descended from house to house, just as the names of the inhabitants were inherited from generation to generation. The house was also an object of beauty and pride, skillfully built. It was often adorned with sib crests, carved and painted on the interior posts and rear screen, which visibly testified to the glory of the lineage (hit-tan), 'the people of the house.' While sheltering the living, the house was also a memorial to the dead; constructed upon the death of a former house chief by his successor, it was named and dedicated at the dead chief's funeral potlatch at which the new chief assumed the honorable name or title of the deceased. At this potlatch all the dead of the lineage were remembered, and the grandchildren of the houseowners received honorable names, those given to women and girls often referring specifically to some feature of the new house or to the graves of the dead whose memory was being honored. Probably most of the heavy labor of construction had been performed by the owners of the house, but, in theory, members of the opposite moiety had built and decorated it. They were the guests who were feasted at the potlatch and rewarded both for their labors and for their services as witnesses to the new names. Gifts given to the guests were as liberal as the owners of the new house could afford, and the latter were assisted by all the members of then* sib. For this reason, the house was called a "tribal house." Because of the prestige of building and dedicating a house, it was the ambition of every man to do so and thus become a house chief. Wealthy men were able to build or rebuild (or repair) a series of houses, often on the same site, thereby enhancing their personal status and honoring their dead relatives. As the house often received a new name, in addition to that of the earlier structure, so its owner could claim another hereditary title for himself and bestow additional honorable names upon his grandchildren. The history of the Yakutat area and the fortunes of its lineages can be told in the history of its houses, their locations in the past, and the rosters of their chiefs. Within the house lived many related families, so that it was with justice called a "community house." The male owners consisted of the house chief or 'master of the house' (hit sAti), his younger brothers or parallel cousins, and the maternal nephews of these men, all members of the chief's lineage. Some of the daughters of the houseowners remained at home, for it was the custom for a newly married man to live with his father- in-law. Usually these young men were also members of the house lineage or of the sib to which it belonged, but they might be members of any sib of the same moiety. A widowed mother, or even a married sister and her husband, might live in the house, for any relative of a member of the household could claim hospitality and shelter. Sisters of the owners who were married into other houses still reckoned their brothers' lineage house as then- own, even though they might never have lived in it, but would visit it to assist their brothers at potlatch es. The position of the sleeping quarters of these indi- viduals and their families reflected their social standing within the heirarchy of the household?the rear of the house (deyi) was the place of honor, where the house chief had his quarters and where he seated visiting chiefs at feasts, while the front of the house was for those of little or no account. A large house might thus contain 50 or 60 persons: Men, women, children, and slaves. At the old winter villages ('an), a line of these great houses faced the beach or the riverbank. Before 1880 or 1890, settlements were not large, and might consist of 3 to 6 (possibly 8) named houses, in addition to smaller subsidiary dwellings and other structures. Over a hundred years ago the threat of war might force small villages or even camps to erect a wall or a palisade about the houses for defence. Such settlements were called 'forts' (nu), and a single house might be so pro- tected and named. In front of the houses there was a space for beaching canoes, for drying racks, etc., and for a path or roadway along the shore. Behind the row of houses were caches were provisions were kept, bath- houses, and possibly the huts where women were con- fined at childbirth. Behind these again, or beyond the end of the village were the grave houses containing the ashes of the village dead. The forest behind the houses IN THREE PARTS YAKUTAT HOUSES 295 served as latrines and also furnished firewood. Water was obtained from a convenient stream, lake, or spring. Within the village, the arrangement of the houses symbolized the social structure, for the houses of the same sib were grouped together, often flanking that of their leading chief. "Daughter houses," erected by prosperous younger brothers of established house chiefs, stood beside the "mother house" of their lineage head. Even the cemetery or 'village of the dead' (sege qawu 'ani) reflected the same social pattern in the arrange- ment of its grave houses. Despite the importance of the permanent house and the established village, these were occupied for a rela- tively short period during the year. In early spring people began to move away to a series of hunting and fishing camps, returning in the late fall, when the winter's supplies of food had been gathered and stored. Since autumn and early winter was the time for pot- latches, many households might be entertaining guests, or might themselves be attending a series of potlatches at another village for days on end. The seasons at which people moved from or returned to their village depended upon its situation, for some were located on fish streams where eulachon could be caught in the spring or salmon in the summer and early fall. Those who traveled farther away on the annual food quest often broke up into small groups to occupy temporary shelters, sometimes at scattered camps. Some fishing places where salmon were caught and preserved might have permanent structures, used for smoking fish as well as for dwellings and big enough for the entire multifamily household. The Aboriginal Winter House It has been so long since houses of purely aboriginal type were built that it is difficult to secure accurate information about them. Our oldest informants had evidently lived during their childhood in houses which had already been modified somewhat in details of con- struction, although the general plan and arrangements of the early type had been retained (pi. 81). There seem also to have been variations from house to house, depending perhaps on their relative age, local styles, or the means and tastes of their builders, so that the descriptions we received are not consistent. I shall, therefore, attempt first to give a generalized description of the type of large house built in winter settlements in the Yakutat area between 1870 and 1880, and will later mention various departures from this type. These again may be compared with the descriptions left us by early White visitors. The old houses were built of wide planks and heavy beams, mortised or fitted together without nails or lashings, and had low pitched gable roofs. They were almost square, sometimes a little over 50 feet long, with a single door at the middle of one end (fig. 9, pp. 296-297). The doorway (XA wul) was a round or oval hole, cut through the front of the house well above ground level, so that it was reached from the outside by two or FIGURE 8.?Front of Bear House, Khantaak Island, sketched by Minnie Johnson: o, doorway; b, porch, c, steps. more steps, and was so small that one had to stoop to enter (fig. 9A). The interior of the house was excavated to a depth of 3 to 4 feet, so that one descended a flight of eight steps to the floor. Sometimes there might be an outside porch (xfyi kAyaci or ieyi kayaci) across the front of the house, but this was not common. The door itself (XA hat) was a wooden plank, and could be se- cured on the inside with a wooden bar. To excavate the floor a wooden shovel with a blade about 12 inches square was used. All around the four sides of the central open part of the house was a bench (tai), about 4 feet wide, and approximately at ground level (fig. 9e). Under this were lockers equipped with doors hung on heavy skin hinges. At the level of the bench, but behind it, across the back of the house (deyikA), and along the side walls (qAfiiti), were partitioned sleeping rooms ('itkA). The rooms in the four corners were sometimes store- rooms (yetiek). One informant spoke of houses with a series of eight encircling benches, but this was an ideal never achieved in the Yakutat area, and possibly referred only to the legendary house of some great chief in the south. On the other hand, houses were certainly not limited to one bench, for an informant of Harrington (MS.) described his father's house (in Katalla ?) that had three encircling benches ("thaax"). "The shelf-top inside the door of the house they call 296 SMITHSONIAN CONTRIBUTIONS TO ANTHROPOLOGY VOLUME 7 storage 1 b f storage? h-m FIGURE 9.?Aboriginal winter house, Yakutat. a, b, Bedrooms for the houae head and the next ranking man, or for two house heads. c, Bedroom ('itkA). d, Painted screen (xin). e, Bench (ta?). /, Fireplace (?an 'iti). g, Steps from floor to bench and from bench to door- way, h, Doorway (?\ wul). i, Steps from doorway to the ground, j , Main posts (gas), k, Corner posts (gukcAtu gas). I, m, Timbers at level of eaves (kiyix kAXAt); m laid first, n, Main beama ('AkAjyi 'Adi), o, Rafters, also gable end pieces ('AkA sugu). p, Planks (taiayit). q, Roof planks in two layers (kA tayi). t, Logs on roof to hold down roof planks ('AkA dAtB). 8, Wooden pegs holding the roof planks and logs in place ('AkA xuwu). 'iix-taak," but the benches at the sides and back had different names, which Harrington did not record. The house chief and his wife or wives traditionally occupied the central room at the rear of the house. "The head of the family has got to be right in the middle" (MJ). But if there was an even number of rooms across the back, the chief claimed one of the two middle rooms, while the next highest ranking man and bis wife had the other. The front wall of the chief's room, or of both middle rooms, was often covered with a wooden screen (iin), decorated with the crest of the lineage. I do not believe that at Yakutat such a painted partition was ever pierced for a doorway into the chief's room, as it was on some Tlingit houses (see Emmons, 1916, pi. 2). Less important families occupied the rooms along the sides of the house. The rooms near the front might be kept for visiting relatives or poor dependents. These rooms were about 8 by 10, or 10 by 12 feet, and their ceilings, which reached to the level of the eaves, formed a platform (yac, yacki) below the roof of the house which could be used for storage or as a sleeping place. In the story of Chief Fair Weather, his un- married daughter slept on the platform at the rear of the house, and there was a slave appointed to take away the ladder after she had gone to bed. The same woman who told the story cited a girl in her grand- father's house at Dry Bay who slept on the platform. "That's the way olden time?young girls stay up there so they couldn't get down [and so] some boy can't get up there until they get married." Her son believed that only boys would sleep above, and that a chief's daugh- ter would have a bedroom. "She can't be on the plat- form, because they store a lot of things up there and people are going back and forth all the time." Unmarried youths, poor relations and probably slaves, sometimes slept on the bench. On it there might be spaces marked off with "curtains" (mats?) or parti- tions of some kind, but these were always cleared from the bench when a potlatch was given. One informant said, however: "The slaves had their bedrooms at the IN THREE PARTS k YAKUTAT HOUSES 297 _ QJ nk L__J m luL FIGURE 9.?Continued corner by the door. I never heard of letting them sleep in the main part of the house." Those living near the front of the house, 'dwellers by the door' (xAtiaq ku-'u)?"they're the ones really worked. 'Go get some water!' and they're supposed to get up and get it. The name means 'the people that live on the door side.' They're the ones have to work for the house people," that is, for the chief and his family living in the rear. In the middle of the main room, in the sunken floor, was the square fireplace (?an 'iti), filled with gravel, small rocks, or sand, and sometimes with broken shells to look nice, the gravel held in place by a frame of boards around the sides. One informant described the hearth as raised from 6 to 12 inches above the floor and about 5 feet square, but all others indicate that it was a large sunken pit. Outside the hearth, the floor was covered with planks about 4 feet wide. During the day persons might sit on the floor with their backs against the front of the bench, or on the bench leaning against the walls of the sleeping rooms. Above the fireplace was the smoke hole (gankA). This was provided with a movable board screen (ganye"tti, gankA t'ayi, gankA yi&i). This could be tilted on one side or the other, depending upon the direction of the wind. This had to be done by someone who climbed onto the roof by means of a ladder (tse't); a log about 2 feet in diameter, notched for steps. The framework of the house was supported by heavy posts (gas) (fig. 9j). There were four very large posts inside the house to hold the main weight of the roof (hitkA), one at each corner of the bench. These were actually flattened logs, shaped more like huge planks than pillars, about 4 feet wide, and probably 12 inches thick, to judge from photographs. One side was hol- lowed out, but the convex surface that faced the middle of the house was often carved with crests of the lineage. Sometimes only two posts (at the rear?) were so deco- rated. As old houses were torn down and replaced by newer ones, the old carved posts were transferred to the new buildings. Often the posts had become so rotted that they could only be set up as carved shells around or in front of the actual supports. There were also four smaller and shorter posts (gukcAtu gas), one at each outer corner of the house. These did not, as in southeastern Alsaka, rise above the level of the eaves, which our informant implied was a modern style, nor were these posts decorated. It is un- certain whether there were any other posts along the side or end walls, for while one man said that a large house might have additional posts at the front and back walls, others denied this, specifying that the eight posts already mentioned and the walls themselves were strong enough to support the roof, or that such wall posts were employed only in the modern type of construction. The four main posts inside were notched at the top to support two huge beams ('AkAxyi 'Adi), 2 to 3 feet in diameter, that ran from the front to the back of the house. The corner posts were similarly notched to hold the frame of squared timbers (Myix kAXAt), about 2 265-517?72?vol. VII, p t 1- -21 298 SMITHSONIAN CONTRIBUTIONS TO ANTHROPOLOGY VOLUME 7 feet wide, that ran around the house at the level of the eaves. The pair at the sides or eaves were laid first, resting in the notches of the corner posts, and these supported the pair across the front and back. The beams at the eaves were grooved on their lower sur- faces to receive the upper ends of the wall planks, and on their upper sides were notched or grooved to hold the lower ends of the rafters ('AJSA sugu) that ran from the ridge of the roof to the eaves. The beams across the front and back were similarly grooved on the lower sur- face to hold a lower tier of wall planks, and also on their upper surface to hold the planks that rilled the gable ends. The tops of these upper planks fitted into grooves cut into the lower surfaces of the outer pair of rafters that formed the gables. The rafters were described as poles about 6 inches in diameter, although it is almost certain that those at the ends of the house were heavier planks. I do not know how many were used. Above these again an unspecified number of longitudinal planks (fexayit), ran the length of the roof, parallel to the main beams below. The innermost and highest pair formed the sides of the smoke hole, and presumably two shorter poles formed the two sections of the ridgepole between the smoke hole and the ends of the house. No pole crossed the smoke hole. The roof itself was composed of planks (kA t'ayi), about 2 inches thick and 12 inches wide (fig. 9g). There were usually two, sometimes three, rows of these, laid like shingles, sloping from the roof towards the eaves. The planks were set close together in two layers, those of the upper layer covering the cracks between the planks below. At the ridge, one set of roof planks projected beyond the ends of the other side to keep out the rain. On top of the roof a few lines of logs ('AIIA dAtti) were laid, parallel to the side walls, in order to hold down the roof planks. Holes were drilled through them so they could be held in place with wooden pegs ('AkA iuwu). The pegs were presumably driven into the rafters below. If the pegs were omitted, or thought insufficiently secure, the logs were braced by poles that ran between them and between the lowest line of logs and the ground. Stones were not used to weight down the roof. The informant from whom most of these details were secured indicated that the roof had the same steep pitch as on modern framehouses at Yakutat that are built to shed the heavy snows. Another man, however, maintained that the roof was almost flat, as on Tlingit houses in southeastern Alaska. The walls were made of planks (ta), about 4 feet wide, set vertically (yindE tcun, kindK tcun 'atax). Their lower ends were said to have been simply buried in the ground, not set into a grooved frame like that which held their upper ends. Sometimes the wall planks were set horizontally (tladjsn, tladiin 'ata?). Presumably in such a case, they must have been mortised into longitudinal grooves in the corner posts, and probably additional posts, similarly grooved, were needed for the middle of the side and end walls. My informant, however, did not know how the planks were secured. The name 'Sidewise House' (tladin hit), belonging to the Tl'uknaxAdi Raven sib, may once have referred to this type of construction, al- though the last house of this name, a frame building erected in 1916, was said to have been so called be- cause it stood at an angle to the row of other houses that faced the beach. "For the doorway they are looking for the biggest tree they can find, and cut the hole through it." That is, a very wide plank was used for this purpose. With one possible exception, (see Bear House, at Diyaguna- 'Et, p. 317), doorways were not cut through totem poles set in front of the house, as they sometimes were much farther south. The facades of other old houses seem to have been undecorated, although two modern houses (Bear Paw House at Lost River, and Thunderbird House at Yakutat, pp. 321 and 327), built in 1918 and 1921, had carvings above the door (fig. io). Two very old style houses described to us were the Beaver House at QalyAx (Kaliakh River) and a smaller house of the same name at Strawberry Point west of Controller Bay. They were both standing in 1900, although the second house fell down in 1908. They belonged to the Qalyrx-Kagwantan, and the peculiarities of their construction may reflect either the local style, or their age. In the main, however, they were like the large Yakutat houses, and my informant believed that they represented the original Yakutat form. Their most distinctive feature was that instead of pairs of straight rafters there were large curved pieces that formed the gables and the two ends of the smoke hole. On these rested the two sections of the ridgepole (fig. 11). There were no other longitudinal beams, except the two at the eaves and the two main beams supported by the four interior posts, and the roof planks were said to have been laid directly on these. The carved rafters were described as "a pretty fancy job . . . big logs, maybe four- or five-foot logs," but it was not clear whether each was a single piece that arched over the entire roof, or whether it was simply a curved middle section that joined the tops of two shorter straight rafters. The ones at the gable ends were grooved on the lower side to receive the upper tier of wall planks. The lower ends of the wall planks at the Kaliakh River house were set into grooved planks at the bottom, but my IN THREE PARTS YAKUTAT HOUSES 299 informant gave conflicting reports about this feature for the house at Strawberry Point. JG told Harrington in 1939 or 1940 that as a small boy he had seen the old house at Strawberry Point. It was then abandoned and rotting. It was made of heavy timbers, 2 by 12 inch planks of spruce, shaped with axes and adzes. The stringers were 6 inches in diameter. "My mother and I were picking strawberries at Strawberry Point, and my mother took me over to that rotting house, and she cried, and she said, "This is your paternal grandfather's house." [The informant, Tcicqedi, was evidently the grandson of Qalyix-Kagwantan]. A couple of years later my mother and I went again to Strawberry Point and the roof of the old house had already caved in. The name of that house was sikkeedfi-hhft, Beaver House. They said that that house was built when there were White people already in Alaska." Other houses in the Yakutat area varied from the large house described above in the number and arrange- ment of the sleeping rooms; in the use of a room at the front for the sweat bath; in the absence of a bench; hi the use of central poles at each end of the house to support a single ridgepole; in possessing two, not one, FIGURE 10.?Bear Paw House, Lost River Landing, built by Jim Kadetoo in 1918. (Front view and floor plan sketched by Edward Malin in 1949; detail of carved wooden paws, after Malin.) red green black 300 SMITHSONIAN CONTRIBUTIONS TO ANTHROPOLOGY VOLUME 7 FIGURE 11.?Detail of roof construction of Beaver House, Kaliakh River, sketched by Harry K. Bremner. a, Curved crossbeams, b, Ridgepole, c, Smokehole. fireplace; or in lacking a planked floor. I suspect that some of these variations were due to the expense or labor of building a house of the classic type with ex- cavated plank-covered floor and heavy twin roof beams, to the smaller size of a household that did not need so many bedrooms, and also to the fact that some of these houses seem to have been at fishing places, serving to smoke fish, and therefore dispensing with such amenities as the bench in order to have two hearths. On the other hand, the single ridgepole crossing the open smoke hole was reported for the Eyak houses at the mouth of the Copper River, and may well have been the original type at Yakutat before the introduction of the heavy paired beams (Birket-Smith and de Laguna, 1938, pp. 39, 367; de Laguna, 1947, pp. I l l , 279). That this may have been the case is also suggested by the appearance of a small archeological house on Knight Island (de Laguna et al., 1964, figs. 7 and 8, pp. 73-74). One informant, for example, suggested that large houses had two main roof beams as well as additional ones, three or four (possibly more) sleeping rooms across the back and one in each front corner, but none at the sides, and no bench. There were two fireplaces. A small house, he said, might have a single ridgepole, a single fireplace, a single sleeping room at the rear, and have the floor only partially planked. His tes- timony cannot be accepted as completely reliable or clear, since he denied the existence of a smoke hole, saying that cracks in the roof were sufficient for ven- tilation and light. Perhaps he was describing smoke- houses. Another man specified a bench all the way around the house, steps up to it from the floor at the back as well as at the front, but a row of bedrooms only at the rear (fig. 12). He believes that there was a single ridgepole across the smoke hole, but is not sure. He also said that in the fall, when all the fish had been smoked and put up for winter, they moved the fire from the center of the house towards the two side walls and had "something like a Thanksgiving feast." This was called 'moving the fire back' (ian dAq yusixix). While the fish were being smoked, the people FIGURE 12.?Winter house, sketched by John Ellis. X indicates the fireplace. The entire center area was dug down 3 feet beneath surface level. The break in the outside diameter indicates the doorway. The house was probably longer than is shown here; i.e., longer than it was wide. had to be careful not to have the fire too hot, but when the dried fish had been packed away, they could have two fires, or build up the central one for greater warmth. However, neither of the last two men had ever lived in an old-style house, as far as I know, and informants who had done so insisted that there was only one fire. As for two fireplaces?"they just use that kind for smoking fish" (MJ). Probably the two fires were pushed together into the center, not to the sides, when the fish were cured. Three Old Houses I secured diagrams of three houses in which some informants had lived as children. The most recent house, built about 1903 and occupied until at least 1907, was the Kagwantan Box House in Dry Bay (fig. 13). This had an excavated floor covered with sand, a bench all around, a fireplace in the center, three rooms across the back, and one room in each front corner. In the right rear corner room (A) (as one faced the rear of the house), lived the owner and his young wife; in the center rear room (B) lived his daughter, and in the left rear room (C) his old wife. In the right front room (D) lived the owner's married son, his wife and their small daughter (the informant). Another granddaughter (and an unmarried son?) slept on the platform above the rooms. The left corner front room (E) was either a bathroom or a storeroom. IN THREE PARTS YAKUTAT HOUSES 301 Bear House, one of the Teqwedi houses on Khantaak Island in the 1880's , had a front porch with a railing at the sides (fig. 8), a bench around the walls with lockers under it, a central fire, three bedrooms across the back and four along each side (fig. 14). The central rear room (A) belonged to the owner, the noted shaman Tek-'ic, and his wife. The two corner rear rooms {B, C), three on the left side (D, E, F) and one on the right ( Sketched from a photograph(?) or sketched by Louise M. Keeler at the sealing camp just above Point Latouehe in Disenchantment Bay during July of 1899. Note the sealskin bag for holding blubber and the sealskins drying on frames. (After Grinnell, 1901, p. 159.) oneself into a windy hovel barely five feet high. It is necessary to keep crouching to avoid the shelves full of dried salmon skins. . . . Small rounded holes eighteen inches in diameter lead to the sleeping places, built out from the main walls." The pencil sketch (pi. 68) (ibid., p. 157) shows two houses built of dovetailed planks, with very low walls and mansard roof sloping from the central smoke hole. On each side of the door, and also presumably on the two rear corners, project small shedlike additions, each with a little rectangular window. These were the sleeping rooms. A wooden wind screen, like a flaring square chimney, shelters one smoke hole. This type of house was like that built by the neighboring Chugach Eskimo. Bark Shelters, Disenchantment Bay, 1899 In June, 1899, the Harriman Alaska Expedition visited the sealing camps north of Point Latouehe in Disenchantment Bay. Here they found the Indians living in tents and bark huts (fig. 22; pis. 72-80). "This was their summer camp; they were laying in a supply of skins and oil against their winter needs" (Burroughs, 1901, p. 60). The square bark-covered shelters were, according to Grinnell, like those used for summer huts in ancient times. He describes them (1901, pp. 158 f.): "These shelters consist of a square frame of poles, loosely covered by strips of spruce bark, from a foot to eighteen inches wide and eight or ten feet long, laid on the framework, and held in place by slender poles placed over them. This bark must of course be brought from a distance, since trees large enough to furnish such bark do not grow in the neighborhood. At most of these bark shelters, skins of the hair seal still on the drying frames, were leaning against the wall, outside, and in some cases had been thrown up on the roof. "In the center of this shelter is the circle of stones forming the fire place, and over the fire, resting on the stones, is the pot full of strips of seal blubber, from which the oil is being tried out. The woman who IN THREE PARTS YAKUTAT HOUSES 315 watches the pot from time to time ladles out the oil into small kegs and old tin cans, or rarely into orna- mented rectangular boxes of a primitive type. . . "From the poles which support the roof of the shelter hang delicacies of various sorts, all from the hair seal's body," [while outside was a large skin con- tainer, made of a sealskin hung from a frame set on posts, in which the blubber was kept] [Ibid., p. 160]. [A general description of this camp has already been given (pp. 67-68).] HISTORY OF YAKUTAT HOUSES From about 1900 to 1918 the Old Village (pis. 82- 84) at Yakutat was an imposing line of great frame- houses along the shore of the cove north of the mission, facing the dark forested lowland of Khantaak Island and, beyond this, the snowy summit of Mount Saint Elias and her sister peaks. The names of many (of all?) the houses were old, repeating and preserving the names of houses which had formerly stood at ancient settle- ments along the Gulf of Alaska or in southeastern Alaska, and thus serving to keep alive the histories of their lineages. While various informants listed the names of houses at the former villages, I find it impossible to determine the exact number of houses at each settlement, for a single house might have one or more names, either given simultaneously on construction, or successively as the house was rebuilt or replaced by a newer structure on the same spot. Probably none of our information is accurate for periods prior to 1880, except for the loca- tion of the sites themselves. Tcicqedi and Gaiyix-Kagwantan Houses West of Cape Yakataga At Katalla there was a Tcicqedi house, called Eagle House (t6aR hit) and 'On a Platform House' (kA-yackA hit). The chief was Duwanik-kA-wul-qa, and this house was probably occupied until 1874 or later, because his daughter, Mrs. Katy Dixon Isaac, was born here. This house had two carved interior posts, Eagle Posts (teak gas), which were described by GJ to Harrington and illustrated by Barbeau (1950, vol. 2, fig. 376). These posts were of spruce, 10 feet high and 3 feet wide, each carved and painted in various colors to represent Cfrom top to bottom) the Eagle, Beaver, and Beaver Dam. Harrington's informant did not know who made them, but believed that they were "more than one hundred years old." Keithahn (1963, fig. on p. 57) has published the photograph of a pair of decorated posts taken from a house near Katalla. The most prominent figure on both is evidently Eagle standing on the head of an unidentified animal (Mud Shark?). What appears to be the same head is represented upside down on the Eagle's body. These poles were lost in a fire. The Tcicqedi are said to have had an Eagle House on Bering Lake, destroyed in a flood together with the Beaver House of the Gaiyix-Kagwantan. When the Tcicqedi tried to build a lineage house on Strawberry Point, they were prevented by the latter sib. The houses of the Gaiyix-Kagwantan have been con- sistently named for the Beaver and the Wolf. Aside from the "original" Beaver House (segddi hit), already mentioned, there were others of this name at Chilkat on Bering River, at Kayak on Wingham Island, at Okalee Spit (abandoned about 1890?), at GalyAx on Kaliakh River (abandoned but still standing in 1900), and at Strawberry Point. A Beaver Dam House (segSdi ?edu hit) was on Strawberry Harbor or Redwood Bay. The old-style houses at Strawberry Point and Kaliakh River have already been described (pp. 298- 300). When the old house at Strawberry Point fell down in 1908, it was replaced that same year by a modern structure, built by Chief John, Ldek or Kaliya- 'ic, and his nephew John Bremner II, DalxEnk or Qatsxa, who was a son of John Bremner (White). The house was given two names, Eagle House and Beaver House, and its dedicatory potlatch honored the memory of Chief John's uncle and father-in-law, 'Axaqudulu, 'Make It Smaller.' This man had been chief of the Beaver House at Qaxtale, at the base of Okalee Spit. I know little about that house, except that it was abandoned about 1890. The chief was the man who stabbed his little nephews when they were 316 SMITHSONIAN CONTRIBUTIONS TO ANTHROPOLOGY VOLUME 7 afraid to bathe in cold water, but his sister, Cakwe, a powerful shaman, brought them back to Me (see pp. 714 -^715). As a young girl she had seen the Russians. Knight Island Houses While the oldest settlement on Yakutat Bay was supposed to have been on Knight Island, I have no consistent or reliable information about it. Fort House (nu hit) of the Kwackqwan and Bear House (xuts hit) of the Teqwedi were mentioned by informants, but none of the house pits at the site of Old Town could be identified. The village was supposed to have been abandoned before the Russians established themselves at Yakutat in 1795. Certainly there were only grave monuments here when the island was visited by Malaspina in 1791. Later, the island was used as a camping place. The Teqwedi Chief Minaman or Daqusetc (1810-90) is said to have built a Shark House (tus hit) here, but the report has not been verified, and if true, the structure was probably erected only for the sake of the dedicatory potlatch, and was never occupied, for we found no trace of it. Nessudat Houses After 1805 (perhaps before), the main KwacS:qwan village was Nessudat on the western branch of Lost River. Prior to this it had been only a summer fishing camp. Here the leading Kwackqwan chief, Yaxodaqet (I), was head of Raven's Bones House (yet saqe hit), also called Big House (hit tlen) because of its size. The next chief was his nephew, CAlwti (or CtAl'eu), who was succeeded by Yakutat Chief Yaxodaqet (II), grandson of the first. This man married QakEnAxkugiS, the Drum House Teqwedi girl nursed by her uncle (see pp. 277-279), and was the father of TawAk-'ic or ieyegAtqin, Skin Canoe George (1855?1900) and his younger brother, Daknaqin, Ned Dok-na-kane, both chiefs of Drum House. Yaxodaqet (II) was also the mother's father of an informant who remembers seeing him once. He may have built a Raven's Bones House on Khantaak Island. At Nessudat there were also the Kwacl:qwan Fort House (nu hit) and Moon House (dis hit), and other smaller houses. Mountain (Saint Elias) House (ca hit) is also mentioned, but this may be simply another name for one of the above. Emmons reported that there were three Kwacliqwan houses here, and one of the Qa-xus-hit-tan from southeastern Alaska in 1884, but the last was never mentioned by any of our informants. The last chief of Moon House was Cada (died about 1908 or 1909), who moved to Khantaak Island when Nessudat was deserted. He was the father of Jim Kardeetoo (1862-1937) and of Henry Shada (1865?- 1935?), both Teqwedi house chiefs in the Old Village. His daughter was 'An6su', Mrs. Mary Abraham, who married ^Ananek, chief of the Tl'uknaxAdi Boulder House. Moon House had four decorated house posts, Moon Posts (dis gas), which Cada took to Moon House on Khantaak Island, and which still later were moved to a house of the same name in the Old Village. Emmons photographed them there in 1901 (pi. 88) and described them as very different in design, character, and coloring from any others on the entire coast. They were flat and each had a finely adzed and slightly depressed cartouche, in which appeared a figure and a part of the moon's disk, shown in different phases. On two posts this design is oval, almost circular, with the moon shown as a young and as an old crescent. Beside this is a naked human figure, painted red, with human hair pegged in. This represents a boy who was blown up into the moon when going to fetch water during a storm. The other two designs have a semicircular field on which a nearly half-full waxing and waning moon is shown, beside which is an animal figure, painted in red (and other colors?), which Emmons identifies as a bear. The jaws are, however, toothless, and the Bear is not a crest of any Raven sib. How the Kwackqwan should have come to use a crest normally associated with the Teqwedi I cannot explain. From Nessudat and 'Aka, the Kwackqwan moved to Khantaak Island (see p. 319). Diyagana'Et Houses We do not know what houses the L'u^edi may have had at Diyaguna'Et before this town was taken over by the Bear House Teqwedi. It was founded in pre- historic times and abandoned, I believe, before Nessu- dat. According to informants, the Teqwedi had four houses here, occupied all the year round, because the town was on a good salmon stream. Emmons was told that it had originally contained eight large houses surrounded by a palisade. The house names given by my informants were: Bear House (xuts hit); Valley House (canAx hit), Bear Den House (xuts kudi hit), Coward House (gAtxan hit), Shark House (tus hit), and Bear Paw House (xuts djmi hit), all belonging to IN THREE PARTS YAKUTAT HOUSES 317 the Bear House Teqwedi. Bear Paw House may have been the same as Shark House; it should not in any case be confused with the Bear Paw House built in 1918 at Lost River landing, near Diyaguna'Et. One person (MJ) also mentioned that a Golden Eagle House (gidjuk hit) was built here by the Drum House people after they had abandoned the Ahrnklin River village and before they moved to Khantaak Island, but this house was not mentioned by anyone else. Probably a Mountain (Fairweather) House (ca hit), also called Sidewise House (tl'ad^n hit), of the Raven Tl'ukna- xAdi were here. Bear House (xuts hit) is said to have had the carving of a Bear with threatening forepaws at the entrance. Emmons was told that this was a totem pole through which the doorway was cut. A man belonging to this lineage, who had heard about but had never seen the pole, described it as "a big one, like a bear. His hands like this?" and he bent forward from the waist and opened his arms as if about to hug something to him. The doorway was between the legs of the bear, or through the body, so that one had to pass below the grasping arms. "When somebody see it, they get scared. Go back." (NM) From remarks of another informant, I supposed that there might have been a "painting" of a Bear (a painted rear screen?) in this house, which was later taken to Bear House on Khantaak Island, and still later was put on the grave house of its chief, the shaman Tek-'ic, who was entombed near Diyaguna'Et. The information was confused and could not be verified. It is just as likely that the Bear painting on the grave house was simply the decoration made for this structure. Shark House was also known as Bear Paw House because of its two sets of house posts, and it seems likely that these originally came from two separate houses. While all four have a Mud Shark at the bottom two are surmounted by a Bear that holds the Shark in his paws while he bites the Shark's tail (pis. 86, 87). These were apparently called Bear Paw Posts (xuts djini gas). The other two, known simply as Shark Posts (tus gas) are not alike. One (no. 3) has an Eagle above the Shark, while the second (no. 4) represents a man catching a Shark. According to Emmons, who photo- graphed them in Yakutat, they were carved "five generations back, early in the 19th century by Sha ke ish and Koon tisch." The artists were presumably Ravens. Is the first Caka- 'ic, 'Caka's Father,' Caka being the name of the Teqwedi son of the Tl'uknaxAdi chief at Gusex, Dexudu'u? In other words, was the carver Dexudu 'u himself? Both posts were of red cedar, painted red and black. After a varied history, they were reputedly sold to some New York museum. A Teqwedi man, Lusxox or Kuxtsma- 'ic, husband of the Ti'uknaxAdi woman KAnyegeltsin or Kuxtsma- tla, and grandfather of my informants (Minnie Johnson and Charley White), is associated with the names of both Bear Paw House and Shark House at Diyaguna !Et. At the potlatch dedicating Shark House he had a baby girl slave killed. This probably happened about 1855. Later, as an old man, he was head of Coward House at Situk. Another chief associated with the building of Shark House was his "brother," Kax-da-xetl, apparently the uncle of Chief Minaman (1810-90) who eventually assumed his name. Nothing is known about the other houses at this village. From Diyaguna'Et the Bear House Teqwedi ap- parently moved to Khantaak Island and to Situk. Ahrklin River Houses Still farther east, at 'An-tlen, there are said to have been Drum House (gau hit), Golden Eagle House (gidjuk hit), Thunder or Thunderbird House (xetl hit), and one other, all belonging to the Drum House Teqwedi. This village was abandoned before the middle of the 19th century, and we have already noted that the only surviving girl married the Kwackqwan chief Yaxodaqet (II), and reestablished this lineage through her children. Tl'uknaxAdi Houses on Johnson Slough Meanwhile, the Tt'uknaxAdi had been moving north- west from the Akwe-Dry Bay area, towards Yakutat. The most important of the older houses to be reestab- lished was Boulder House ('itc hit), said to have been originally located in Dry Bay. " Ttc hit and Dekina hit?Far Away House?go together" (HB). " 'Itc hit is the same as Ta hit [Sleep House]. We call it that because Raven is our head, and Raven is made of 'itc [a hard stone]." (MJ) The members of this Lineage were not as numerous as those of Whale House, who apparently moved from Gusex to Sitka. I am uncertain of the correct meaning of the house name, Dekina. It would logically seem to be 'Far Out People,' i.e., Haida or Tlingit of Dall Island (Henya or Klawak, see p. 216). Yet such an interpretation was rejected by some of my informants. The ending -na could mean 'side,' and I have therefore left the trans- lation simply as 'far out.' One Boulder House was built at GAniyac on John- son Slough by Natskik. He married a Teqwedi woman, Kayistan, while the latter's brother married 318 SMITHSONIAN CONTRIBUTIONS TO ANTHROPOLOGY VOLUME 7 NatskiFs sister. Natskik and Kayistan were the parents of Situk Jim (died 1912) who built Bear Den House at Situk (see p. 321). After Natskit committed suicide, he was succeeded by his nephew, ]Xjuiane-&, bap- tized Abraham. The latter was said to have been the first, or at least one of the first, to be baptized at the Yakutat mission. Abraham married Mary, 'Anesii', the Teqwedi daughter of Yaxodaqet (II) and QakEnAxkuge from Ahrnklin; they were the parents of the Abraham brothers, chiefs of Drum House in the Old Village. When Abraham became old, his younger half-brother Ckman became chief of Boulder House and for a time lived at Johnson Slough. But this house was aban- doned before 1884. I do not know where the occupants lived after that, for there does not seem to have been any house of their sib on Khantaak Island. Later, both Abraham and Ckinan lived in Mountain (Fairweather) House in the Old Village, and Abraham occupied a small house of his own near the mission. He died before 1900, and Ckman died about 1910 or a little later. Their successor as head of the Tl'uknaxAdi in this area was Jim Nikita, who eventually built a Boulder House at Situk (seep. 321). Dry Bay Houses The houses which supposedly stood at Gusex have been mentioned (pp. 272-273). Of these, Frog House (xrxtc hit), with four Frog Posts and a Frog Screen, is the only one specifically reported to have been dec- orated. Houses in this town belonged to the Tl'uknaxAdi and the TlukwaxAdi. It is doubtful that the CAnkuqedi or the Kagwantan had any named houses here. After the abandonment of Gusex, the Tl'uknaxAdi chief at Dry Bay seems to have been the leader of that branch of his sib which did not emigrate to Hoonah or Sitka. In the early 20th century, this man was Dry Bay Chief George, Qawusa or Qusun, who died in 1916 and is buried at Situk. Both of his names had belonged earlier to his father's father, a TlukwaxAdi shaman who was entombed on the Akwe River below Gusex. Dry Bay Chief George was also named for his mother's brother, a Tl'uknaxAdi man who was said to have been shot to death in the war with the GanAXAdi of Chilkat (see pp. 273-275). Qawusa of Dry Bay was in fact believed to be this slain warrior's spirit reborn as a son to his own sister. If Dry Bay Chief George were born about 1840 or 1850, and if his uncle had been killed in the war, this could date the war to the early part of the 19th century, and not to pre-Russian days. In Dry Bay there were houses belonging to the Tl'uknaxAdi, TlukwaxAdi, CAnkuqedi, and Kagwantan, but only the names of those standing in 1900 or built after that date are known, and even the locations of some are uncertain. When the missionary, Albin John- son, took the census at Dry Bay in 1900, he counted 167 persons in 3 large, old-fashioned houses on a tributary of the Alsek (1924, p. 132). One of the earlier houses was Far Out House (dekina hit), already occupied in 1902 and 1903, and probably belonging to the noted TlukwaxAdi shaman, Gutcda, 'Wolf-Weasel.' An earlier house of the same name had been reported from Gusex. Somewhere on the eastern shore of Dry Bay, a Kagwantan man, Qatan, 'Man Sea Lion,' one of whose wives, QAtsuqE (KatsukE ?), was Gutcda's sister, built Box House (qukw hit) about 1903. This house has already been described (p. 300). The son-in-law of Qatan, a TlukwaxAdi man named Yelkida, Qedu'axtc, and GAx-tlen, 'Big Rabbit' (1879- 1907), and who was also a nephew of Gutcda, was said to have belonged to Canoe Prow House (cAka hit). This may have been another name for his uncle's Far Out House, or may have been another house of that lineage. There was also built at Dry Bay. prior to 1900(?), a Frog House. In this was the "original" Frog Screen from Gusex. The "builders" of the house were said to have been Lituya Bay George, Qestin or Ciylkw (1854-1926), and John Williams, senior (1887-1943). The latter would have been too young to have built the house, but may well have been considered one of the owners. Lituya Bay George was a XafkA'ayi man, born in Sitka of a Kagwantan father, who acquired his English name because he used to live in Lituya Bay, although he was finally buried at Situk. His wife was a CAnkuqedi woman, Mary Qatuwatiqm or Qakwate. Two of her daughters, born 1900 and 1903, are now living at Yakutat. An older daughter was the wife of John Williams, Sr. The latter was a TlukwaxAdi man, son of the Kagwantan Yandu'En (brother of Qatan, chief of Box House), and of titkwe, a daughter's daughter of Gutcda the shaman. John was named &u-xwatc and also Slstln, after a long-dead shaman, an uncle of Gutcda. In 1909, after the Tl'uknaxAdi in Sitka had tried to dedicate a Frog House there (some time between 1900 and 1904), but had been prevented by the local KiksAdi, who claimed exclusive rights to that crest, the Frog Screen was taken to Douglas near Juneau. It was put into a house belonging to Charley Benson, Da-tlen. 'Big Road' (1857-1933). The latter was a Tl'uknaxAdi man from the Yakutat area, the son of NatskiFs sister, Qu'uxsan, and of Lkutke-'uxwixtc, 'Never Gets Lost,' the brother of Natskik's Teqwedi wife. Although he was nephew to the chief of Boulder House at John- son Slough, it is not clear why Charley Benson was IN THREE PARTS YAKUTAT HOUSES 319 entrusted with the Frog Screen. The motive for its removal to Douglas was, of course, to establish Tl'uk- naxAdi rights to the Frog. The screen was destroyed in the fire which, burned a large part of Douglas. On the west side of Dry Bay near the cannery, Blind David Dick, QaldJAqe or DaxquwAdEn, the CAnkuqedi son of Gutcda, built Thunder or Thunder- bird House (xetl hit). It seems to have contained a "totem pole," that is, a crest representation of some kind, probably a screen. This house was dedicated with a potlatch in 1909. Nearby, and slightly later that same year, Dick's brother-in-law, Dry Bay Chief George, Qawusa, built a house which he named both Far Out House and Frog House. Situk Jim (chief of the Teqwedi Bear Den House at Situk) painted a new Frog Screen for this house, in honor of which Qawusa composed a song. This was recorded by his son, Frank Italio, and by his daughter, Maggie (Mrs Frank Dick) (1954, 2-1-G, 2-2-A; p. 1164). Somewhat later, Qawusa wanted to take his screen to Sitka, in order to demonstrate the claims of the Tl'uknaxAdi to use the Frog, but he was dissuaded or prevented by John Williams, senior. Instead, the painted boards were taken down and moved into Canoe Prow House. This was an ordinary frame building, erected about 1915 (?, the date 1925 was also given), by John Williams and his father-in-law, Lituya Bay George. This house was near the cannery, and was probably the last to be built at Dry Bay, for the cannery was abandoned in 1912 and most of the Dry Bay people had died off or moved to Yakutat. John Williams and his family apparently continued to live a good deal of the time in Dry Bay up until his death, although they also had a house in the Old Village. The painted boards of the Frog Screen were reported in the summer of 1952 to be still in Canoe Prow House, but when Francis Riddell and Kenneth Lane visited the abandoned house in 1953 they could not find them. Khantaak Island Houses We should now return to the Yakutat area, to follow the fortunes of the lineages that settled there. On the shores of Port Mulgrave, just inside the southeast point of Khantaak Island, people began to build permanent houses about 1880, or possibly earlier, for this was becoming a regular port of call for trading schooners. This village was called S'uskA. In 1883 (or 1884?), when Emmons first visited this village, "there were six large houses of the old type, built of heavy hewn spruce timbers, with the low oval doorway, the central open fireplace, and the cor- responding smoke hole in the roof, and in the chief's house ornamentally carved and painted interior posts supported the roof. These were as follows: Toose hit (Shark house) Ta qway di Hootz hit (Brown-bear house) " Gau hit (Drum house) " Dis hit (Moon house) Qwash qwa Kwan Nu hit (Fort house) " " " Goutc kaulye[?, koudye?] hit (Wolf Den house) Ka gwan tan." The last must have been Galyix-Kagwantan, but was not mentioned by my informants, and I suspect that Emmons was confusing a Kwacls:qwan house on Khan- taak Island with the Galyix-Kagwantan Wolf Bath House which was later built at the Old Village. According to my informants, who are probably remembering the village on Port Mulgrave as it was in 1888, there was there a Bear Paw House (xuts djmi hit), whose chief was Kax-da-xetl from Diyaguna'Et. This house was replaced by or renamed Shark House (tus hit), whose chief was Daqusetc, Billy Merry-man, etc. (pi. 62), and who eventually took his uncle's name, and is buried as "Chief Minaman, Kawh-da-whealh, 1810-1890," on the hill above the mission. Daqusetc, whom we have previously met as "Yen-at-set'l" and "Yanatcho," had himself come from Diyaguna'Et. His house, which Mrs. Shephard found locked up in 1889, contained the four Shark Poles from the original Shark House and Bear Paw House on Lost River (pi. 87). When the house on Khantaak Island was given up, these poles were taken to the Old Village. The second Teqwedi house on Khantaak was Bear House (xuts hit), also known as Valley House (canAx hit). The house head was the shaman, Lxagusa or Tek-'ic (pi. 65). The latter died about 1890, or shortly after, despondent at the death of Daqusetc. He was succeeded by his brother, Sisdjakw, usually known as Ca-kuwakan, 'Mountain Deer [Peace Dancer],' or Jack Shaw-coo-kawn (1831-99). Inside and above the door of Bear House, was a post, 5 feet high and 29 inches wide, carved to represent the figure of a Bear, holding a small human figure under its forepaws (pi. 89). Both figures are painted red, with dark blue faces, the features accented in black and red, and both have eyes of silver metal. The small anthro- pomorphic figure also has teeth of the same metal, and pegged-in human hair. The background of the pole is light blue. The small human figure was identified as Kats, the Teqwedi man who married a female bear (see Swanton, 1909, Tale 19). According to one in- formant, however, this figure symbolized a little female bear cub. This post was carved for Bear House by a Tl'uknaxAdi man, YAndus-'ic (died about 1887), mother's brother to the two wives of Johnstone, a younger brother of Tek-'ic, who for a time lived in 320 SMITHSONIAN CONTRIBUTIONS TO ANTHROPOLOGY VOLUME 7 Bear House. The post was taken to a Bear House at the Old Village, then to a Shark House, and was finally sold to the Alaska Historical Museum in Juneau. Bad feeling, especially between Johnstone and Ca- kuwakan, perhaps prompted the former to move to Situk with his father-in-law, tusxox. This house ha9 been described (p. 301). The last Teqwedi house was Drum House (gau hit), built by Skin Canoe George, ^eyegatqin, (1855- 1900), and his younger brother, Ned Dok-na-kane, Daknaqin. It will be remembered that they were sons of Yakutat Chief Yaxodaqet (II) and his wife from Ahrnklin. This house apparently marks the establish- ment of the Drum House lineage in the Yakutat area and its growth after virtual extinction. (The name of the house chief was recorded in 1949 as Kuniq; this may be an error, or may be the name of an older brother, or possibly of Skin Canoe George). The Kwac&qwan from Nessudat were reported to have had three houses on Khantaak Island. The prin- cipal one was Raven's Bones House (yel saqe hit), not mentioned by Emmons, and possibly built after 1883 or 1884. On the death of the chief, Yaxodaqet (II), he was succeeded by his nephew, Yakutat Chief George, Qakoqetc (pi. 64), also known as "Naa-kaa-nee," who took his uncle's name, Yaxodaqet. He died in 1903. The successor of Chief George as leader of the Kwackqwan was Cada (1827-1908, or 1909). The latter was said to have been head of Moon House at Nessudat and was later the builder of Fort House on Khantaak Island. Since Fort House was also called Raven's Bones House, it is possible that there was never a separate building of that name on Khantaak Island. The only Kwac?qwan House known to have been decorated was Moon House (dis hit), also known as Mountain House (ca hit) for Mount Saint Elias. It contained the four Moon Posts brought from Nessudat. The house was built by John Nishka (died 1896). He was called Nicka, or Nicga, and Cagau-'ic, and was probably the composer, TanXxAci (1952,3-1-B; p. 1257). He was the Kwackqwan 'deer' chosen as the opposite of ^adanek Johnstone in the peace ceremonies settling the killing of the latter's uncle on the Situk (see p. 603). Nishka married YuxwakAndu*Aq, Shra-gun-ta-ack, (1869-1904), the Teqwedi sister of Sitka Ned. After Nishka drowned sea-otter hunting, his uncle Stagwan took over the house. This succession is very unusual. I cannot explain it, and wonder if I have not misunder- stood my informants. Stagwan was, of course, KwacR- qwan, though he had been given this Russian name of his Tl'uknaxAdi grandfather. Stagwan was succeeded by his son's son, Kayak Tom, also known as Tom Ellis, De-tten ('Big Road.'), and Kactan-'ic. His wife, Nora, Dayiiquwa'ek, was the daughter of Tom Coxe, only child of the shaman, Tefr- 'ic. Kayak Tom took the Moon Posts to the Old Village when he built Moon House there. Situk Houses The village S'uskA on Khantaak Island was being abandoned after 1888 in favor of the cove on the main- land, now known as the Old Village. Before this, how- ever, some families had settled on the Situk River, between the present railroad bridge and the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Station. Some of the settlers we know came from Khantaak Island, and perhaps others had come from Lost River. A number of persons from Dry Bay were eventually buried between or behind the houses at Situk village. Eventually the inhabitants of this settlement, like those of Khantaak Island, all moved to Yakutat. Before discussing the houses at Old and New Yakutat, therefore, those at Situk and the vicinity should be mentioned. Situk had apparently been a fishing camp when Diyaguna'Et was occupied, but in 1886, Emmons re- ports that there were some 40-odd persons living here in 4 houses, which he unfortunately does not name. Here, Lusxox from Bear Paw House at Diyaguna'Et and his son-in-law, !&adanek Johnstone from Khantaak Bear House built Coward House (gAtxan hit) about 1882. This was said to have been the first named house at Situk. The name, Coward, was chosen because an uncle of Johnstone, QadJAxdAqina, a shaman, had been killed farther up the river, and had never been avenged. This was because, according to one informant, the murderer was another Teqwedi, and obviously no legal satisfaction could come from the further killing of a sib "brother". According to another informant, the mur- derer was a Kwackqwan. At least, the latter sib was in some manner held responsible, for iadanek Johnstone was seized as a 'deer' and so prevented from taking any revenge. (Nishka of the Khantaak Island Moon House was his "opposite." I wonder whether Johnstone's older brother, Sisdjakw, acquired his name Ca-kuwakan in the same ceremony.) The body of the murdered shaman was put in a grave house near Diyaguna'Et, where that of Tek-'ic, his nephew, was later placed. Another intralineage murder which may have had some bearing on the dispersal of the Teqwedi, was that of the maternal uncle of 'Andes-tla, Mrs. Bessey, who died in 1916, at the reputed age of 100. Her uncle was also a shaman and belonged to Bear Paw House. His grave house was built on the point just north of the mouth of Ankau Creek, and when his niece was buried nearby, this started the modern cemetery at that place. Mrs. Bessey was the mother of Sitka Ned, who became chief of Coward House in the Old Village. IN THREE PARTS YAKUTAT HOUSES 321 Coward House at Situk has been described (p. 301), and since there are conflicting descriptions of it, the building may have been made by remodeling an older smokehouse. After Johnstone's death in 1888, the house was abandoned. His "nephew," Sitka Ned, took two of the four carved Coward Posts to the new Coward House at the Old Village, where they were displayed at a potlatch honoring the memory of iadaneL Then they are believed to have been put on the latter's grave on Khantaak Island. The other two posts are supposed to have been so rotted that they were left behind in the old house at Situk. No trace of these posts now remains at either place. Meanwhile, Johnstone had persuaded his son-in-law, Situk Jim, Kats, to build Bear Den House (xuts kudi hit) next to Coward House at Situk. Kats was married to Xosal-tla, the Kwackqwan daughter of Johnstone by his first wife whom he had long since left in favor of the two Tl'uknaxAdi daughters of iusxox. In Bear Den House besides Kats and his wife and children, there lived the owner's two married younger brothers, a married sister, and their families, as well as the mother of Kats, the aged widow of Natskik of Boulder House on Johnson Slough. Bear Den House was rebuilt and rededicated as Bear House in 1905. It was described as a new building again in 1910, made of commercial lumber, and having only one room. An informant who visited it that year called it "Coward House," suggesting a second rebuilding and renaming. When Situk Jim died in 1912, his younger brother, Situk Harry, Kusat"kw, (died 1945) became the house head. The latter, about 1910(?), had taken advantage of the railroad from Yakutat to Johnson Slough to haul out commercial lumber for a house on Black Sand Island, near the mouth of the Situk. He had intended to name this Valley House, but since he failed to give the necessary potlatch, he used the building only as a summer fish camp. The house washed away the year after his death. A Valley House (canAx hit) was also mentioned at Situk, and may possibly refer to Bear Den House after Situk Harry's succession as house chief. About 1910, a Tl'trknaxAdi man born about 1850> brought commercial lumber out on his hand car on the railroad to build a Boulder House at Situk, in memory of the older one at Johnson Slough. Jim Nikita, YacnAlxu? (or YacnAlxAq), '[Silver Salmon] Skimming the Surface,' was probably a nephew (or cousin) of Dry Bay Chief George and of the latter's older brother, Dry Bay George, Qankida-'ic, Lingit- 'ani-kina, 'On Top of the World,' for Jim Nikita as- sumed Dry Bay George's grandiose title after the latter's death about 1887 or 1888. He also married Dry Bay George's Garyix-Kagwantan daughter, Susie, Guc-tlen-tla ('Big [Killerwhale] Fin's Mother'?] (1875- 1908), and in 1910 married Susie's young niece. Jim Nikita had perhaps been living with his relatives at Dry Bay, and it was possibly his building of Boulder House at Situk that brought Dry Bay Chief George and Lituya Bay George to Situk where they were buried. Nikita's house at Situk was built primarily as a place in which to hold a potlatch, rather than as a dwelling, and there was already a Boulder House in the Old Village at Yakutat. The last house to be built in this area was Bear Paw House (xuts djmi hit), with an adjoining smokehouse at the railroad landing on Lost River (fig. 10). This was erected in 1918 by Jim Kardeetoo, and his nephew, Sitka Ned, by that time both prominent Teqwedi men at Yakutat. These buildings are of commercial lumber and were apparently used only as a fishing camp. The house commemorates the earlier one of the same name at the near-by site of Diyaguna'Et. It is interesting in that the lower floor consists of a single large room, with a bench about 30 inches high that runs across the back, along the two sides, and partially across the front. It is 4 feet wide at the back, about 3 feet wide at the sides, and very much narrower at the front of the house. There are lockers under the bench, and from one side of it a ladder leads to an attic above. A small sleeping room, about 7 feet long, is built on the middle of the rear bench. The house has ordinary door, stove, and windows, one window illuminating the sleeping room. Above the level of the door, and below the attic windows in front, were two large wooden Bear Paws, measuring 12 to 14 inches in width, and about 16 inches in length, and painted red at the wrist, green at the middle, and black at the claws. These were stolen by White men in August, 1952. Houses in the Old Village The biggest and most impressive settlement was the Old Village, or "Village," which grew up on the mainland cove between the store to the north (built by W. C. Mills of Sitka), and the graveyard hill above the mission to the south (pis. 82-84). The move- ment from Khantaak Island to this site began in 1888 or 1889 and was completed by 1899. Emmons reports that the natives at first ferried over materials from the old houses on the island in order to build new ones, but my informant states that they did not build on the mainland until they acquired lumber from the sawmill on the lagoon, operated by the Reverend Hendrickson. According to information secured by Harrington from the Reverend Axelson, the sawmill did not begin to operate until 1890, and oxen were used 322 SMITHSONIAN CONTRIBUTIONS TO ANTHROPOLOGY VOLUME 7 to haul the logs. Some of the wealthier natives used lumber imported from Seattle. By 1899, there were about 100 persons living in the Old Village in some 8 to 10 framehouses (Burroughs, 1902, p. 34). Gradually, as the older settlements east of Yakutat were aban- doned, more and more people came here. At the head of Monti Bay, about half a mile south of the Old Village, a saltery was built, converted into a cannery in 1905, and also a dock (1902), at which steamers called regularly. Already by 1906, tourists on these ships looked forward to the chance to buy Yaku- tat baskets, and also by this date the railroad had been built from the dock to the landings at Lost River and Johnson Slough on which salmon were hauled to the cannery. A number of natives owned handcars on the railroad. In addition to the trader's residence, store, and warehouse, and a few small private homes of more acculturated natives who had been educated at the mission or at Sitka, the Old Village consisted of a line of large framehouses. In all, 17 "tribal" houses were built, although they were not all standing at the same time. Some of the later houses had to be erected behind the front row because there was not enough room along the waterfront. Behind the houses were smokehouses and bathhouses, and in front were flagpoles on which the American flag was hoisted for holidays and potlatches. On the beach beyond were drawn up the owner's canoes, for which special 'boat ways,' (yakw deyi) had been prepared by rolling aside the boulders. These houses were named and dedicated at potlatches; the earliest of which we have any record was given in 1905, and the last in 1916, but there were undoubtedly earlier ones as well as others during this period about which we heard nothing. This was a time of prosperity when many could afford to build and dedicate houses and to furnish them in the White man's style, for the natives were fishing and working for the cannery, and the salmon runs were then still abundant. To judge from photographs taken in 1912 and 1916 (pis. 82-84), from descriptions, and from the few houses which still survive (pi. 26), these modern "tribal houses," while outwardly like the white man's in appearance, still retained a few of the earlier interior arrangements. There was one large room, occupying the front two-thirds of the house, in which there might be one stove for warmth and another for cooking. In the rear were perhaps two small bedrooms, but extra beds were set around the walls of the main room. There was also a second story under the high, steep roof, presumably partitioned into additional rooms for other families in the household. The houses, of course, had ordinary doors and windows. There was a porch across the front. These buildings were set up on short heavy posts, above the ground, and had high ceilings, so that they were not nearly as warm as the old- fashioned houses on Khantaak Island. The walls were finished inside with boards, sometimes covered with wallpaper. Kerosine lamps, some hung from the ceilings in chandeliers with glass pendants, furnished light. Outdoors, kerosine lanterns were hung up for street lights. According to Emmons, there were in 1901, 10 large houses and an equal number of smaller ones. He gives a census for that year of 130 inhabitants: 54 Kwackqwan; 43 Teqwedi; 22 Tl'trknaxAdi; and 11 Kagwantan (presumably of the Garyix branch). He also gives the following 13 house names, but we cannot be sure to what year he refers: Kagwantan?-Wolf Den [Bath?] House; Teqwedi?-Bear House, Shark House, Thunder Bird House, Hawk [i.e., Golden Eagle] House; Tl'ukna- xAdi?Rock [Boulder] House, Mountain House, named for "a volcano back of Dry Bay" [i.e., Mount Fair- weather]; and Kwackqwan?Mountain [Saint Elias] House, Moon House, Fort House, Play House, Raven's Bones House, and Owl House. When Hardy Trefzger (1963, pp. 21, 28-29) arrived in Yakutat in 1911 (where he was later to become United States Commissioner), there were about 300 natives, 7 White men, 2 White women, and a few White children. One of the White men was Steve Gee, a prospector; another was Beasley, the storekeeper. Trefzger men- tions three named houses in the Old Village: "Kuuch Hit or Wolf House" (probably Wolf Bath House, No. 1, below); "Seek Hit or Black Bear House," obviously a Teqwedi house although we did not hear that name (sik hit); it may have been one of the many names of Shark House (No. 13), or of Brown Bear House (No. 17); the last is "Chaad Hit, the Salmon House," (xat hit), which was almost certainly Kwac?qwan, and was perhaps another name for Moon House (No. 5), or Raven's Bones House (No. 7). In two of these houses, according to Trefzger, were totemic paintings made by D. S. Benson, a hunchback who had been educated at Sitka and served as court interpreter there from 1878 to 1885, and later as interpreter to the missionaries at Yakutat. He is known to have painted the screens in Wolf Bath House and Moon House. The 17 native houses about which I was told are numbered below according to then* location from north to south, not in the order in which they were built. 1.?Wolf Bath House (gutc xa hit), also known as Beaver House, (segMi hit), was originally built in the 189O's(?) by a Tt'uknaxAdi man, Ckman, for his Galyrx-Kagwantan wife, Mary Skinan, (^uyi, after their son had been accidentally shot by Ckinan's "nephew," Ldaxin, the oldest son of ^adanek Johnstone. Ckinan was the son of a Galyix-Kagwantan man, and was perhaps living in Shark House on Khan- IN THREE PARTS YAKUTAT HOUSES 323 taak Island at the time, since his sister, Gauyu-tla (pi. 80), was the wife of the Shark House chief, Da- qusetc, and the peace ceremony to settle case was held on Khan taak Island. Ckinan was nephew to Natskik of Boulder House on Johnson Slough, and successor to his older brother Abraham, XAnanek. He was a parallel cousin, and so a "brother," to the wives of ^adanek Johnstone. His wife, Mary, was the daughter of a brother of Yakutat Chief Yaxodaqet (II). We do not know who was the first chief of Wolf Bath House, but Yakategy John rebuilt it and gave a potlatch here in 1905. This man, S'A'AI, Tl'atke, WanisE', was the husband of Sisgexw-tta, the Kwac?wan daughter of XEnk, a brother of Tek-'ic of Bear House. Yakategy John had lived with his wife in Bear House on Khantaak Island, along with his father-in-law, XEnk. At the potlatch in Wolf Bath House in 1905 a painted screen was installed (fig. 85). This had been painted by Daniel S. Benson (born 1869), Ceq-'ic, Daqusetc, in return for permission to marry Annie, Daxodzu, the adopted daughter of Yakategy John. The painter, a Teqwedi man, was crippled and deaf when Harrington saw him in 1940. I gathered that the financial arrangements permitted Yakategy John to return part (all?) of the bride price to Benson at the potlatch as payment for the screen. Since Benson and John belonged to the same moiety, the money was actually paid to Annie, Benson's wife. The screen represents Lqayakw, the youngest of eight Galyix- Kagwantan brothers who went into the sky. He is standing on showshoes at one end of the Milky Way (his tracks), while he shoots at a muskrat with bow and arrow. Below is a large Beaver, sitting on a beaver dam and eating a willow branch, and below this again are two crouching Wolves. This painting is executed with commercial oil paints on what Harrington described as looking like an old barn door, measuring 8 feet square. At first a good many people lived in Wolf Bath House, but by 1910, when another potlatch was beld here, there were so few members of the lineage that one woman had to take a man's role as one of the principal speakers. By 1921, Yakategy John had sold the house to Hardy Trefzger, a White man, who remodeled it and moved the screen to the ceiling of the living room. The house was again resold, and while occupied today, it no longer belongs to a member of the original sib. 2.?Owl House (tiskw hit), also called Raven's Nest House (yel kudi hit), was built next door to Wolf Bath House by the brother-in-law of Yakategy John. The builder and house head was B. A. Jack, Qadalek, Wasix (1860-1948 pi. 90), the Kwackqwan son of XEnk of Bear House on Khantaak Island. This was probably one of the later houses to be built at the Old Village. It was undecorated. Finally, the owner tore it down and used the lumber for a new house in the present town of Yakutat. 3.?Boulder House ('itc hit), was built by the Tl'uknaxAdi man, Charley White, YaniM (born about 1879), son of ^adanek Johnstone of Situk Coward House. This house was built early in the present cen- tury, before Jim Nikita had built Boulder House at Situk. By this tune, his "uncle" Ckinan was already dead, but the latter's widow, Mary, who is said to have died shortly after the earthquake of 1899, freed her husband's slave at the dedicatory potlatch for this house. This act was to honor the builders, her dead husband's "nephews and niece." Charley White's wife at that time was Jenny, QakulsikM (or Kaqulsute), (1874-1918). She was Drum House Teqwedi, and the fourth child of Abraham XAnan6k of the earlier Boulder House. This house was probably not occupied for very long, for Charley White moved into a house given him by the superintendent of the cannery, and Boulder House was bought by his sister, Minnie, then Mrs. Gray, for the lumber. 4.?Mountain House (ca hit), named for Mount Saint Elias, a crest of the Kwackqwan, was said to have been built by three men. The first was known as QAqw!i-'ic; the second was Yakutat Charley, S'isdJAkw- 'ic or WAtsdAl (1862-1920), who mairied the widow of the first, Si4awulqEn, a Kagwantan woman. The third was Shorty, Nanut or Txak-'ic (see p. 284). They were assisted by Mrs. Sitka Ned, 'Atckwe, KwacSqwan daughter of Ca-kuwakan of Bear House on Khantaak Island. Mrs. Sitka Ned (died 1926) inherited the house. It was sold to a White man for a store, and finally burned down. 5.?Moon House (dis hit) of the Kwackqwan, was perhaps built by Cada, although his successor, Kayak Tom (Tom Ellis) and the latter's brother, Sticklew Hansen, CtAtl'eu, are usually named. This house was evidently already standing in 1901 when Emmons noted the house posts which had come originally from Nessudat on Lost River. Obviously in this house of modern construction they could only be set up for orna- mentation. A potlatch was given in this house in 1905. My informants did not describe the posts which Emmons photographed but mentioned only one pole, about 5 feet high, carved with a round face and ivory teeth that represented the Moon. Possibly a song leader's baton was meant, not a house decoration. However, I was also told that the house had a Raven Screen, called t'a yAna ku-li-