Land excavations at Hart Chalet

1. Land excavations at Hart Chalet

2. Table of Contents

3. figure L^t

4. 1 - Y roject Cjoa Is 20 I A

5. 2 - /Acknowledgments

6. 5 - Strateg ies of intervention

7. edition Journal 20 1 Ar

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9. Hi

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15. §

16. '* ',/r7 •

17. 7• ~ R'goiet (Lab rador) an J5tL aw re nee

18. Lj a tew ays Nummary

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Land excavations at Hart Chalet

Fitzhugh, William W., 1943- author, photographer

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Figure List I-V

1. Project Goals 2

2. Acknowledgments 3

3. Strategies of Intervention 4

4. 2014 Expedition Journal 5

5. Hart Chalet Maps 58

6. Hart Chalet Field Notes and Collections 60

7. Rigolet (Labrador) and St. Lawrence Gateways Summary 99

8. References 103

9. Appendix 1. 2014 Hart Chalet Artifact Field Catalog

Cover Image:

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figure L^t

Ramah Bay, a Canadian National Heritage site, source of Ramah chert used by prehistoric Indian cultures for 8000 years and by Paleoeskimo cultures from 4000-800 B.P. Illustration and design by Stephen Loring and Marcia Bakray.

Research in the Hamilton Inlet Narrows in 2014 with the Nunatsiavut Archaeology Office Map of sites visited during 2013

Broomfield Cove sod house Inuit (?) village, view to East

Hart Chalet Inuit winter site, House 1 excavation, view to North

As in previous years, Anja Herzog processed the Hart Chalet collections.

Alaina Harmon, Ted and Sandra Timreck (with hound Bodie), Florence Hart, and Mariel Kennedy at Florence’s ‘guest house’.

Village of Fleur-de-lys, Newfoundland, showing the east side of the harbor. The soapstone quarry is over the hill to the right.

Preform fragments from the Dorset soapstone pot quarry on display at the Fleur-de-lys Museum and Heritage Center, Newfoundland.

Quarry face at Fleur-de-lys from which hundreds of rectangular Dorset cooking pots were quarried ca.AD 200-600, indenting the soapstone outcrop.

Once again, icebergs were a common sight in our transit from Long Island, Newfoundland, to Hamilton Inlet, Labrador.

Boyce Roberts, Michelle Weist, Jamie, her husband, and son Nick at their Quirpon Harbor home after we presented them with a copy of Will Richard’s and my book, Maine to Greenland: Exploring the Maritime Far Northeast.

L’Anse aux Meadows Viking site out-buildiungs under reconstruction showing timber and sod elements.

Mariel and Alaina, our freshest “Viking” recruits at the LAM site.

Workers rebuilding LAM had the advantage of wheel-barrows, a distinct improvement over handbarrows 1,000 years ago. But otherwise, the scene and tasks would have been identical. Hand-barrows are still used in the northern fishing industry today.

Entering Double Mer Narrows, Pitsiulak encountered strong tides and a view to the west of almost 60 miles.

Our first survey area on the north side of Stag Head Cove, on a low terrace behind a modern log cabin, produced a cobble hearth and charcoal.

Alaina, Jamie, and Michelle at a Point Revenge campsite just inside the mouth of Stag Head Brook. View SE.

A Ramah chert Point Revenge corner-notched biface base found at Stag Head brook site.

Jamie’s air photo of Main River delta at the northwest end of Double Mer, North at top. Approaching Main River delta: Mariel, Alaina, Jamie, Michelle, Perry and Vicky.

View northeast from a high sand terrace, south of the first rapids on Main River.

Alaina and Mariel after bath at Main River rapids.

Fish camp at Main River lagoon, not currently in use, with bear barricaded windows.

Jamie and Michelle recording a test pit where we found a mammal bone in the caribou trail 0.5 km north of Main River fish camp. View SW.

Eroding bank on lower portion of Main River.

Alaina, Vicky, Michelle, and Jamie at cards in Pitsiulak galley.

The ‘bush’ north of Partridge Point, Double Mer.

Caribou skull found in sod, south side of the Partidge Point former cabin site.

Trapper cabin site on south shore of Partridge Point. View west.

The Northern Ranger , at Rigolet dock, supplied us with a hydraulic hose to repair our anchor windlass.

Gull chick awaiting dinner.

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Tea Pond boulder beach overview with limit cairn at left and pit feature center-low. View SW. Rigolet, with school at right and Hudson Bay store at left. View W.

Raised beach tent ring site with abandoned snowmobile a kilometer east of the SE entrance of The Narrows. View E.

Jamie Brake, Mariel Kennedy, and Michelle Davies documenting a probable Innu tentring site near Hanniuk in the Backway, Hamilton Inlet.

Testing a tent ring at Hanniuk, a Paliser family camp on the NW shore of the Backway. View N. Hanniuk point. View SE.

Midden with glass beads, iron, bones, stove parts on surface 75 ni west of Hanniuk cabin.

Towing auxiliary boats south side of Henrietta Island. View east.

Michelle, Mariel, and Alaina on ‘forest trek’ at head of Long Harbor, Henrietta Island.

Recording boulder feature (a disturbed Inuit grave?) at east end of Carrington Island, south of Henrietta.

Eskimo Island-3 (H2) Labrador Inuit winter site, looking south across Lake Melville toward Carrington Island.

Jamie and Michelle prepare drone at Eskimo Island-3. View SE.

Inuit fox trap on east side of Narrows.

Fine eating anyone? Rigolet kids and Jamie with sculpin catch.

Paliser Point at northeast entry of Double Men Site areas to right of cabin and between trees on hillside. View S.

Hillside site at Paliser Point. View S.

Paliser Point historic Inuit midden west of cabin. Vew SE.

Broomfield Cove Inuit w inter site from water. View SW.

Broomfield Cove winter site, view east.

Mapping the Broomfield Cove Inuit (?)winter site with 2 (3?) structures. View W.

Inuit winter site on east shore of Curlew Harbor, west of Cape North (Cartwright). View SW.

One of two sod houses at Curlew Harbor Inuit site. View SE.

Sunrise and fog on Grady islands, Cape North. View E.

Abandoned fishermen’s cabins at Punchbowl, south of Black Tickle. View NE.

Punchbowl dock, still serviceable. View S.

Remains of Hawke Harbor whaling station. View SE.

Hawke Harbor: Industry or modern sculpture?

Hawke Harbor station seen from the tanks south of the site. An other-worldly vision among pristine Labrador granite hills. View NW.

Model reconstruction of a 16th C. Basque tryworks on Saddle Island on view at the Whaler’s Station Restaurant in Red Bay.

Undated photo of Parks Canada’s underwater and Memorial University’s land excavation teams at Red Bay in the early 1980s, with dig chiefs Robert Grenier and James Tuck rear left and right. Photo on display at Whaler’s Station Restaurant in Red Bay.

Pinware River seen from the highway southwest of Red Bay, View NW.

Alaina and Mariel clearing brush from Hart Chalet House 1, view north through entry into house. Mariel and Alaina beginning the excavation at the Hart Chalet Inuit winter village (House 1) in Brador. View North.

House 1 1x8m trench in central house floor with lots of spruce roots. View S.

Artifact cache on floor in front of west house bench, with iron point, square iron bar, saw blade fragment, bottle glass, heavy (lead?) mineral, and other items. North at top.

Whalebone fragment in 4N0W.

House 1, 4N/0W, view N. showing the central house floor, and to left of roots, the west-side bench. Cache was to upper right.

Grey stoneware fragments of a nearly complete vessel from 4N/2E, SE corner of the house floor.

Seal mandible from midden in House 1.

The smaller, southern mound, never back-filled, about 75m west of the larger northern mound.

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The larger (northern) of two Early Maritime Archaic burial mounds excavated by Rene Levesque and Clifford Hart in the late 1960s east of the Hart’s home in Brador. View E.

Eastern side of the un-back-filled Early Maratime Archaic burial pit, showing a possible external ring of rocks at the edge of the mound. View E.

A possible third burial feature in the limestone barrens east of Brador.View NW.

Turkey dinner a la Florence, with Alaina, Mariel, Sandra, Florence, and Ted.

Sandra Kingsbury and Ted Timreck: goodbye smiles as they begin car trip south.

Fresnel lens at Forteau Lighthouse.

Mariel and Alaina with fresnel lens at top of Forteau Lighthouse.

L’Anse Amour Early Maritime Archaic burial mound. View NW.

4N4W midden square outside the west wall of House 1, with shells, fish and mammal bone.

North at top.

View to east along trench inside south wall of Housel.

Map of St. Paul River and bay at Whitely Museum in St. Paul showing location of early European sites.

Plaque at the Whitely Museum in St. Paul with illustration of the cod trap that William Whitely invented.

Working team of the Whitely Museum: Lori-Lee Thomas (standing), Garland Nadeau (left), Chesley Griffin (middle), and an assistant.

Chipped stone tool display at Whitely Museum.

Chipped stone tools at Whitely Museum.

Ground stone gorget and axes at Whitely Museum.

Iroquoian pottery vessel with castlated rim at Whitely Museum.

Basque rechauffleur warming dish dredged from the bay several decades ago.

Engraved motif on Basque warming vessel.

Chesley Griffin on beach at Five Leagues in front of his uncle’s renovated home.

Five Leagues village, view to south.

An amazing bakeapple season on the Lower North Shore!

Basque try works at Five Leagues harbor.

Boulder-walled shelter dwelling at Five Leagues headland.

Raised boulder beach with cache pits and structures.

Shell deposits could be used to radiocarbon-date raised marine beaches south of Five Leagues. Boulder pits and houses behind Five Leagues village.

Alaina with steamer clams rescued from the mud.

View of SW corner of House 1, view SE.

House 1 interior, looking northwest.

View west along rear (north) wall of House 1.

Aliana and Mariel after a strenuous morning of back-filling.

Perry and Bill clearing gear off the Hart Chalet site.

Mariel and Alaina relaxing in Pitsiulak foc’s’le.

Mariel and Alaina at the Colbourne hacienda in Lushes Bight, Newfoundland.

Washing, drying, and field-cataloguing collections at Perry’s.

Hart Chalet (EiBh-47) House 1 looking through entry to rear wall, view north.

East-west trench inside south wall of Hart Chalet, House 1. View to west.

Profile of HI at 4 North.

4N6E Excavation Map.

Iron Artifacts from 4N6E.

4N4E and 4N6E extention, view NE.

Profile of North Wall of 4N6E.

Profile of North wall of 4N6E.

4N6E trench through East wall of HI.

Map of finds at 4N 4E, HI.

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4N4E nails and iron.

4N4E iron nail and bonetool handle.

4N4E ceramics.

4N4E stoneware.

4N4E stoneware fits 4N4E Ceramic fits View NW.

HI.

4N2W unit in HI interior.

4N2W units HI interior.

6N 2E, 8N2E artifacts, iron nails and objects.

4N2E unit.

4N2E Artifacts.

East West trench in the HI View East.

Whalebone in 4N0W.

Artifact cache in 4N0W.

Map of 4N0W.

4N0W view north.

Worked glass in 4N0W.

Artifacts from 4N0W.

Cache of artifacts in 4N0W.

Map of finds from 4N0W Profile of North wall of 4N2W.

View of 4N2W.

Artifacts from 4N2W.

Groswater chert biface, lead and iron fragments, glass sherd, blue bead from 4N2W. Iron knife and spear shaft from 4N2W.

Artifacts from 4N2W.

Map of 4N4W.

4N4W unit NE quadrant excavated previously.

Artifacts from 4N4W.

Artifacts from 4N4W.

House 2 entrance tunnel, view North.

Profiles for 8N8W.

8N9W excavation map.

HI and H2 entry tests. View to SE.

Artifacts from 8N8W.

14N8W

14N8W excavation map.

Profile for 14N8W.

14N8W SE Quad.

14N8W artifacts.

14N8W artifacts.

14N8W quartzite flakes from Indian component.

14N8W artifacts.

14N8W Worked whale bone.

Stag Head Brook site, View NW.

Hart Chalet Site, HI with Anaina and Marielle, View N.

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Fig 1.1: Research in the Hamilton Inlet Narrows in 2014 with the Nunatsiavut Archaeology Office

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Fig 1.2 Map of sites visited during 2013 field season.

1 - Y roject Cjoa Is 20 I A

(1) In Rigolet the objective was to survey the extension of Hamilton Inlet known as The Double Mer, a narrow body of water running west from the northern entrance of the Narrows to the end of Double Mer, about sixty miles west of Rigolet. This area has never been surveyed for archaeological sites but was known historically as a winter habitation for settlers and Inuit families who summered further east in Groswater Bay in the 19th and 20th centuries. Passes from the western end of the Double Mer were used as travel routes to central and western Lake Melville, and rivers at the head of the Double Mer provided access to hunting and trapping lands to the north, as well as routes west of Cape Harrison to the Central Labrador coast. A short survey of the Palliser Point and the eastern Narrows portion of Double Mer in 2013 by Jamie Brake documented several promising locales for future study, and our 2014 project, conducted with Nunatsiavut Government archaeologist Jamie Brake and his assistant, Michelle Davies, was designed to investigate these and the western shores of Double Mer and its river mouth regions. The survey was to identify sites and promising locations, not to conduct excavations. We also planned to survey portions of the Narrow 7 s and eastern entrance of the Backway if time permitted.

(2) Research in Brador was to focus on excavations at the Hart Chalet Labrador Inuit village located west of the mouth of the Brador River. This site was originally identified by Rene Levesque in 1968 and is located at the site where Clifford and Florence Hart built a cottage a few years later. At the time it was thought to be a Basque site on the basis of roof tiles and large spikes and nails found. The Smithsonian investigated the site at the request of the Harts in 2003 and returned to tested it several times in subsequent years. We soon recognized the foundations of three Inuit sod houses and found that the Basque materials were present as contact goods. In 2013 we excavated a trench through the middle of House 1 and planned to open a larger portion of this structure in 2014 to facilitate dating and assembling a faunal collection for environmental reconstruction. The Hart site would provide us with a fourth excavated Inuit dwelling from the Quebec Lower North Shore and would help establish a broader basis for constructing an Inuit history for a region that until recently had no firm evidence of permanent Inuit occupation.

Fig 1.4: Hart Chalet limit winter site. House 1 excavation, view to North

2 - /Acknowledgments

As in previous years, the 2014 season owes its success to many individuals and organizations. Our research sponsors included the Smithsonian's National Museum of Natural History and Anthropology Department, the Arctic Studies Center's Ernest Burch Endowment, and the Nunatsiavut Inuit Government's archaeology program. Perry Colbourne, long-time skipper of the Pitsiulak, ensured the safety and success of our travels and provided much-appreciated companionship, as well as moose meat protein for our larder. Perry’s wife, Louise, welcomed and fed us at the Colbourne enclave in Lushes Bight. Lindsay and Will Richard served as our lobster-fortified point of departure in Maine, and Will provided our transportation to Newfoundland. This summer Will had to return home to Maine shortly after Pitsiulak got underway, so we missed his photographic documentation and expert digger’s hand in the field. As usual we had a warm welcome in Quirpon by Boyce Roberts and Michelle Weist, and by Boyce's daughter Jamie and her family. The Norseman Restaurant crowd in L'Anse aux Meadows and staff of the Parks Canada Museum welcomed our annual visit to the Viking site area. In Rigolet we visited with Charles and Jean Tooktoshina and Bert and Tib Allen, and were assisted with food, fuel, and water by old friends Ozzie and Joyce Allen. The coastal steamer Astron helped us repair a damaged hydraulic line, and several well-wishers in Rigolet provided us with fresh salmon. In Brador we enjoyed the incomparable hospitality of Tlorence and Clifford Hart, who opened their home to us, fed us sumptuously, and provided every kind of assistance, in addition to allowing us excavate in their chalet back-yard. Chesley Griffin gave us a wonderful day's tour of the Five Leagues area between Middle Bay and St. Paul, and we learned much about local history from Garland Nadeau and Lora-Lee Thomas of the Whitely Museum in St. Paul. Special thanks must go my Nunatsiavut Government partners, Jamie Brake and Michelle Davies, to my fine field team of Alaina Harmon of the Smithsonian and Mariel Kennedy, a Notre Dame University intern; both unflinchingly pitched in to make the voyaging and scientific work highly successful and enjoyable. I greatly appreciate the support of the Quebec Ministry of Culture and Communication and its Archaeology program staff for issuing our archaeological permit, and the Quebec Natural Resources Department for my land-use permit. Anja Herzog has provided crucial services cleaning and cataloguing our collections, and I am indebted to Andre Bergeron and the Quebec Conservation Center for assistance in artifact storage and conservation. Finally, I am indebted to Laura Fleming and other members of the ASC who managed the affairs of the Arctic Studies Center in my absence, and to Austin Tumas, Meghan Mulkerin and Kathryn Leonard who turned my diary, field notes, maps, section drawings, and photographs into a fine published report. Thanks to you all!

5 - Strateg ies of intervention

Excavation Procedures : Following several visits to the Hart Chalet site in the years between 2003 and 2012, when we mapped and made several small test pits, in 2013 we returned to begin a small excavation in House 1 to determine its architectural plan, obtain representative collections, and dating materials. At that time a 1 x 8 m trench was excavated from the southern end of the entrance passage to the rear wall of the house, assigning unit names A,B,C,D to each 2-meter square from south to north. In 2014 we returned to open up more of this structure and established a 2-meter grid based on a datum point at the SW corner of 2013 Unit A, near the side of the Hail cottage. This grid was extended during the course of 2014 work to include the entrance passage and southern part of House 2, located a few meter northwest of House 1 at the edge of the grassy clearing north of the Hart cottage. Elevation data were provided by a level line strung between a triangle of small posts located at the NW corner of House 1, where sight lines could be made from any part of the excavation area. The site location and Houses 1 and 2 were photographed and a topographic map based on ground surface elevations was prepared. Following photography, gridding and topographic mapping, each 2-meter square was excavated according to stratigraphic levels, and data were recorded photographically and on paper map grids. All rocks, features, flakes, tiles, and artifacts and samples were piece-plotted in three dimensions. A composite map was prepared and stratigraphic profiles were drawn for important sections. At the conclusion of the work all excavated areas were back-filled and covered with sod.

Processing, Analysis, and Reporting : All artifacts recovered were traced, plotted, numbered, and described in field notes, and interesting objects were photographed at the time of excavation and in lots by 2-meter units. A field catalog was prepared and everything was packaged and delivered to the Quebec where it is being cleaned and catalogued by Anja Herzog. Materials needing conservation will be discussed with the Quebec Conservation Center. All maps, and relevant photos and illustrations are reproduced in this field report. Cataloguing and technical analysis of faunal and materials is on-going at the time of this report and will be published in future reports.

Fig 3.1. As in Previous years, Anja Herzog processed the Hart Chalet collections.

A

edition Journal 20 1 Ar

This summer's field project was split between a survey of Double Mer, the northern arm of Hamilton Inlet west of Rigolet conducted with Jamie Brake, director of the Nunatsiavut Inuit Government's archaeology program and his assistant Michelle Davies, and excavations at the Hart Chalet Inuit winter village site in Brador. Double Mer has never been surveyed, except for a 2013 reconnaissance of its eastern shores around Double Mer Point. Its western end resembles, in miniature, the western end of Lake Melville and has several small rivers, which should be excellent fishing locations and have uplifted terraces suitable for Indian camps of the past 4-5 thousand years, if not earlier. It also should be an excellent caribou hunting location. For the past two hundred years it has been used by Inuit and European hunters and trappers, mostly from Rigolet. A lowland pass exists to the northern side of Lake Melville, and to the north there is overland access to hunting territories between Seal Lake and Cape Harrison. The only recent cultural documentation on Double Mer is found in Our Footprints Are Everywhere (Bryce-Bennett 1977).

11 July, Friday: DC to Georgetown

Three of us left Washington this morning bound for Portland, where we were to meet Will Richard: Mariel Kennedy, a rising senior from Notre Dame University, Alaina Harmon (Smithsonian), and myself, each with different plane itineraries. Fortunately we all arrived without hitches at Portland and found Will, who drove us to a Bowdoin College lunch date with Susan Kaplan, long-time director of the Peary-MacMillan Arctic Museum. Susan filled us in on the recent Nunatsiavut Heritage Conference in Nain. and we discussed the lecture and book signing event Will and I had planned at the P-M Museum in late September. By 3pm we were picking up dinner from the local lobster store in Bath and by 4 were checking out Four Islands at the tip of Georgetown Island, eating ice cream, and feeling like the other tourists who were exploring its rocky coves and shores. We reached Will and Lindsay's woodsy home at about 5 and after a tour of Will's garden, which was festooned with pie plates, fake eagles, and other "discouragers’ of birds and marauding mammals, we were ready for our long-anticipated lobster dinner. Alaina and Mariel took a bit of coaching on the secrets of lobster cracking. The lobsters, garden fresh salad, and wine were delicious, leaving us well fueled, and finely conversed, and ready for sleep by 10pm. Will and Lindsay's place looked great, even minus some pines they had to cut last year; but the mosquitoes were a-plenty and the snowy winter and wet spring had taken a toll on the black trumpet mushrooms Will likes to use in his spaghetti sauce.

Fig 4.00: Alaina Hannon , Ted and Sandra Timreck (with hound Bodie), Florence Hart, and Mariel Kennedy at Florence s ‘guest house ’.

12 July, Saturday: Georgetown to North Sydney, N.S. We rose about Sam, had coffee, said goodbye to Lindsay and the cat. and rolled out the driveway by 7am, counting on reaching the North Sydney ferry by 10pm. The drive was pretty uneventful. We stopped for breakfast at our usual place on Route 9 (“the airline'” highway) about halfway to the border crossing at St. Stephen. A big motorcycle group was staging at the restaurant.

The St. Stephen's border crossing was quick, and after changing come currency we were off again, reaching the Nova Scotia border about 4pm and the ferry terminal by 9:30. We were soon called to load and found our reclining seats in the lounge and some light supper from the cafe—a piece of hot pizza for me. Will leaned back, pulled his cap went down over his face, and was down for the count—in this case, about 8 hours.

13 July, Sunday: Port aux Basque to Lushes Bight The crossing was calm and uneventful, not even much disturbed by snores from the surrounding passengers. We arrived at Port aux Basques at 7:15 on schedule and debarked quickly, hitting the road and marveling at the high mountains around the Codroy Valley. Like last year, Will's French toast at the Irving Station restaurant still lacked real maple syrup, but he was generous and did not make a fuss about asking the waitress to check for syrup in the back room. We stopped briefly at the Canadian Tire store in Corner Brook to buy rubber boots, and headlamps. Then on to South Brook, where we lunched

at Eddy's Restaurant, getting to the Long Island ferry in plenty of time for the 3:45 run. Arriving at Lushes Bight, we found Perry and Louise in fine shape, with all daughters on hand, and their spouses and even a new baby three weeks old—Jane's first, a 71b/l loz girl named Cassie. The Pits was at the pier, all nicely cleaned and painted, with the ‘zodiac' stowed and all gear loaded and ready to go. As usual, Perry and Louise put on a feast that evening—lobster, steak, and chicken, and potato salad. We contributed strawberries from a roadside stand in Pasadena. Tracy and Mark and their two kids are home for a week from their Canadian Forces base in New Brunswick, Jill and Matthew in from her med tech lab job in Corner Brook and his barge job on the Great Lakes, and Jane, Lee, and Cassie. Jill gave A&M rides on her and Matthew’s jet-ski, cruising among the huge icebergs still remaining from the massive onslaught that the Newfoundland east coast has had during the past month and a half—mostly big ice from Greenland ice fjords like Ilulisat. Maybe their glaciers have receded to the point that the bergs are melting enough inside the fjords that they are able to drift over the outer sills and get into the open sea. In any case, no one in Newfoundland in living memory has seen so many and such large bergs. For several weeks this spring, the coast was completely blocked for miles out to sea. Lobstermen could not get their traps in; fishermen could not fish offshore, and the Long Island ferry had to be suspended. A huge berg was still hanging around the ferry landing at Long Island. Given all the new weather and observing systems, it is strange that the Newfoundlanders did not seem to have any advance notice of the ice onslaught this spring, even when this mass of ice has been moving south in the East Baffin and Labrador Currents for a year or so.

Everything was fine with the Colbournes, and grandmother Nan looked younger than last year—as she does every year. She put up A&M for the night while Will and I stayed on the boat. Melvin, Dennis, and Stephen were all away working their ferry jobs, and Maurice was off on a crab boat. Barb is now mayor of ‘Long Island’, working hard to get a purified fresh water system installed, and their ‘shed’ clubhouse is still going strong for evening entertainment, though we did not visit this evening. The weather has been gorgeous all day, with light SW wind, and the full moon was shining brightly when I walked to the boat for the night.

14 July, Monday: Lushes Bight Another beautiful summer day—our big day for paying local bills and buying food since we plan to leave tomorrow. We caught the 8am ferry and arrived in Springdale in time to open the Bank of Montreal, where I changed US currency and collected the funds transferred from Nunatsiavut. who were providing $12,500 for our help with a survey of the Narrows and the Backway west of Rigolet.

Leonard Harvey had not deposited, until this morning, the funds from the SI for Perry's salary into my and Perry's account on Friday, as per usual, and they did not show up when I was banking; but Perry and I sorted it out by his giving me $1500 of receipts he had accumulated while preparing the boat this spring. After the bank we raided the food store, racking up a $700 bill (twice our usual), because we had heard the ice had delayed the supply boats bring food to Rigolet, where we had to meet and feed our Labrador-based crew for a couple weeks. We found most of what we needed except for “reap vanilla extract, which we found at the rival store—$6 for a tiny bottle. While in Springdale I had a life-transition moment; I offered myself to a barber other than Lynne, who has been cutting my hair since 1966. It being Monday, the regular Springdale barbershop was closed, but Perry remembered seeing a road sign for a small shop down near the harbor-front. I quickly found it, and in ten minutes Dana Froude had me trimmed up. While this watershed event was going on I became riveted by the capsule version of her life story growing up in Springdale and having to leave home and join the military to avoid family abuse. I told her she should read “'Broken Wings" by Clarissa Smith of Brador for a similar story. Our next stop was Triton, where we had lunch at Fudge's, paid bills at Budgell's Sports and the hardware store. Budgell's supplied Perry with a new $700 toilet powered by a noisy suction pump—no hand-pumping shitty water in our future (we hope). Their new store is fancy and full of huge 4-wheeler monsters geared to the returning vets from the Alberta mines and oil patches—young men with big vacations and big money eager to impress their parents and relatives with recreational vehicles and big fancy houses. No more picking around in Budgell’s for those small ship-gear pieces and bumper floats. You get all that by direct order from the Mercer's catalog over the counter. Budgell's is now a Madison Ave showroom! We also stopped to see Jerry Jones, owner of Diamond Drills (formerly the Marine Center) and custodian of the Pitsiulak during the winter haulout period. He wanted me to poke around in the small cobble hearths I had found down near his beach-front last year, thinking they might be related to the Maritime Archaic tools he had collected nearby.

Our quick trowelling turned up charcoal but no signs to identify age or culture. I doubt if he wants to spend the $600 to get a date from BETA Analytic. He told us he had a potential buyer for the boatyard part of his operation, which he wants to divest. Maintaining this facility for fishermen was a part of the deal for his purchase of the Marine Center from the government, but it's been a headache because some of the boat owners are not paying and/ or are leaving their boats on-shore cluttering the yard. Last year he threatened to sell the lift, rendering the yard inoperable to fishermen.

That would be a disaster for us too, as we'd have to move the boat to Twillingate or Port Saunders, far from Perry's supervision. In the evening we made final preparations for leaving in the morning, and the girls moved their gear aboard, into the toc'sle.

15 July, Tuesday: Lushes Bight to Fleur de Lys: The weather predictions called for strong southwest wind, but we had little choice but to set out and let events take their course. By 5:30 we were underway with light winds and had a smooth crossing to Cape St. John. From there we headed west toward Fleur de Lys with the option of staying there if the wind increased—which it did. At Jeremy's we had seen schools ot capelin in the small cove by his house, and when we arrived in Fleur de Lys we heard that capelin had also arrived here, and several small boats were beginning sets along the shore. We tied up at the government pier near a large fish

Fig 4.01: Village of Fleur-de-lys, Newfoundland, showing the east side of the harbor. The soapstone quarry is over the hill to the right.

Fig 4.02: Preform fragments from the Dorset soapstone pot quarry, on display at the Fleur-delys Museum and Heritage Center, Newfoundland.

Fig.4.03.-Quarry face at Fieur-de-lys from which hundreds of rectangular Dorset cooking pots were quarried ca.AD 200-600, indenting the soapstone outcrop by several meters.

plant used earlier this spring for processing harp seal pelts. Perry mentioned that many seals had been present but that the heavy ice conditions kept hunters from going at them. One of the people we met at Fleur de Lys told us the plant had processed 10.000 seal pelts this year, down from 40,000 several years earlier, most sold to Greenland for their sealskin garment industry. One of the men who appeared soon after we landed was Angus Shea. It quickly turned out that Angus was familiar with archaeology and had been a long-time friend of Mark Allston, who was a member of our teams in the early 1990s. He became friends with Mark when the town became the focus of archaeological excavations by John Erwin at the soapstone quarry in town, and its small museum was established. Over the years Mark returned frequently to visit Angus and they became close friends. We had stumbled into cycle of associations in a quite surprising way.

After lunch we walked across town to the museum and found it staffed by student summer workers. I had visited the museum and quarry several years ago, but the exhibits had not been installed. Now they illustrate Dorset quarry activities of ca. AD 4-500. tools used, and remains of wood scaffolding erected to reach the soapstone at higher elevations in the cliff-like exposure, which runs a few hundred meters up the hill away from the road. At the museum we met a couple from Maryland and another who had driven from Wisconsin—all complaining about the potholed road from the TCH highway. A hike up the hill to the east gave us a good view of the sea and the route we would take in the morning. Will made a fine spaghetti dinner and just before sunset I buzzed around the harbor with the girls to orient them to speedboat safety. The wind had died back and a gorgeous

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16 July, Wednesday: Fleur de Lys to Quirpon: Will had been up pacing much of the night, and about 4am he woke me to say he had decided to return to Maine and would find a way from Fleur de Lys to Lushes Bight, perhaps with the assistance

Fig 4.04: Once again, icebergs were a common sight in our transit from Long Island, Newfoundland, to Hamilton Inlet, Labrador.

of Angus Shea. His wife Lindsay had had a rough year. She had been struck by a car. breaking her leg and some ribs, and had made a slow recovery. After several days of phone calls to her and others he decided he needed to be with her this summer, not squirreled away on a boat with limited communication. Fleur de Lys was only a couple hours' drive from Lushes Bight, and Louise could drive over and pick him up. He would collect his car and could be on the midnight ferry to Nova Scotia and home by the end of the second day. So we made the calls, and left Will on the dock heading up to Angus’ house to wait for Louise. Later in the day we reached Louise by phone and found that Will had already got his ferry reservation and had cleared out. Louise confirmed what we had heard from the museum visitors—that the Bay Verte Peninsula road was little better than a pot-holed track.

17 July, Thursday: Quirpon The weather situation was the same in the morning, and the predictions were for the storm and wind to continue for another day. Michelle had loaned us her car, so we spent the morning at L'Anse aux Meadows while Perry shopped for hardware to repair a leak in the head (bathroom). We used to have trouble with the old toilet getting plugged up; let's hope this "growling monster' is foolproof. At LAM we met Kimberly Trainor, the Parks Canada site manager. The site festival last year was so successful they decided to make it an annual event.

Fig 4.06: L ’Arise aux Meadow’s Viking site out-buildiungs under reconstruction showing timber and sod elements.

The sunrise was grand and we steamed out and headed north. Fig 4- 05: Boyce Roberts, Michelle Weist,

spending the day in and out of fog patches brought on by the Jamie, her husband, and son Nick at

southeastern front that moved in. There were many icebergs, but their Quirpon Harbor home after we fortunately relatively few small chunks, which were hard to see in presented them with a copy of Will Rich the fog. Unlike last year, we saw only a few humpbacks—one pair ard’s and my book, Maine to Greenland;

cavorting nobly at a distance, breaching and tail smacking, and Exploring the Maritime Far Northeast,

one or two others. Fulmars and puffins showed when we reached

the Grey Islands. Off St. Anthony the wind picked up from astern but we were soon in Quirpon harbor where we discovered Boyce, Jamie, and Nicolas waiting on the dock to catch our line, along with a clot of tourists bound for the Cape Bauld lighthouse hotel. They were not arriving at a very auspicious time, as the weather for the next couple of days did not bode well for whale watching or 4-wheeler excursions around Quirpon. After shutting down the boats we went to Boyce's and Michelle (Weist)’s, where we had a fine dinner of spaghetti and codfish cakes. As in previous years when spirits needed more stimulation "‘everclear*’ (white lightning) was offered, but it was declined in favor of beer and sodas. After dinner Perry took the girls moose-sighting and saw two. We had lots of fun messing with 7-year-old Nick, who is a smart aleck, inquisitive, and really got into the pictures in Maine to Greenland with me. Jamie and her husband showed up later in the evening after she finished work at the Norseman Restaurant. By the time we got back to the boat it was raining, foggy, and blowing hard from the southwest.

with the region’s restaurants participating again. Down at the site a team was rebuilding one of the smaller sod houses that had been standing since 1969. The new sods are fastened as they go up, layer-by-layer, by driving wood stakes down into the earlier layers. We had a nice talk with the re-enactors and then joined Perry at the Norseman Restaurant for lunch. Gina and Adrian were doing well, and Gina showed me a mock-up for a northern-themed “Twelve Days of Christmas'’ book she is preparing with a local illustrator. I could not resist giving her the last ship-board copy of Maine to Greenland. I found myself looking around at the art for sale, wondering if Will would have found something he wanted to buy, as in the past. Gina had sold the last copy of Lynne's “Labradorians” she had in stock last year.

One of the leitmotifs of the trip so far has been the search for a suitable cutting board. Ours had been mistakenly left at Perry’s. During the afternoon the quest took us to Dark Tickle, a local emporium that sells all manner of books, trinkets, garments and has a small coffee shop to boot. I had met its proprietors, Stephen and Gwendolyn Knutsen, last fall when the Adventure Canada cruise team stopped here while bussing back from a visit to LAM. They run a great place and are very keen on archaeology and history. Cutting boards are not part of their line, we discovered, but they introduced us to their son Kier, who seems likely to take over the family business, ending a career as an aerospace education and graphics person. He is putting his talents to work on a small history museum in a new wing of the store and showed us around the exhibits, which currently include diary excerpts, old maps, and documents relating to a British fellow who was granted title to one of the large islands in St. Lunaire-Griquet. In addition to history he is displaying artifacts from local collections—mostly 18-19th C. iron, ceramics, bottles, etc. MUN's Peter Pope has been advising on identification and significance. The Viking landscape here could use an additional focus on history, and Kier and Dark Tickle are off to a good start.

Fig 4.07: Mariel and Alaina, our freshest ‘'Viking" recruits at the LAM site.

Dinner was interesting. Boyce and Michelle were dining with old friends visiting from New Brunswick. The husband is a surgeon living near Moncton who grew up in Quirpon and got a medical degree from Memorial. So we left them in peace to eat at Northern Delight down the road toward St. Lunaire. The restaurant was full because it was “mummer’s night” and a band was playing. Mummers generally appear at Christmas-time, when groups descend on households offering food and drink in return for hilarious incognito entertainment, including suggestive advances, but here it seems to have become a weekly event during the summer tourist season. Halfway through dinner three mummers arrived, ridiculously costumed and unidentifiable. They pranced around the tables, cajoling people to dance. Before long I was dragged to the dance floor, fortunately—with my creaking hip—only

Fig 4.08: Workers rebuilding LAM had the advantage of wheel-barrows, a distinct improvement over handbarrows 1,000 years ago. But otherwise, the scene and tasks would have been identical. Hand-barrows are still used in the northern fishing industry today.

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for one dance. After dinner we returned to Boyce's and Michelle's and got into an interesting discussion with his surgeon friend about all sorts of things, including the day’s tragedy—the downing of a Malaysian airliner bound from Amsterdam to Kualalampur by east Ukrainian rebels who were later overheard saying they had shot down a civilian plane instead of a Ukrainian Air Force jet. Cancer. Basques, and many other topics were in the air during the discussion. While we talked. Nick, 7, and his young friend of the same age were playing games on the computer, answering their parents’ inquiries with repeated assurances: “It's not porn!" The weather reports for tomorrow are for more SW wind until afternoon, then shifting to strong NE.

18 July, Friday. Quirpon. A glance at the sky at 5am was not reassuring, and after hearing the weather report at 7 we decided to wait til noon to see about departing. Breakfast was the magical, mysterious Red River Cereal that gets much grief from my crews because it looks—and some say—tastes—like birdseed. But actually we three (minus Perry, a breakfast abstainer) liked it, even without Will’s maple syrup. We spent the morning in St. Anthony at the Grenfell Visitor Center. It was the first time I had seen the exhibit, which is full of interesting photos and materials and is a huge monument to Wilfred Grenfell. By noon the wind had shifted to the NE

and seemed much abated, at least in the harbor. We said goodbyes to our hosts and steamed out to the north, passing a sailboat entering under only her jenny. Less than an hour out and well short of Belle Island we began to be blasted by an onslaught of waves and wind. Water started flowing in through the pilothouse side windows, threatening our auxiliary generator, and it was clear we would have a bad time steaming 5-6 more hours to reach a harbor on the Labrador coast. So we turned tail and returned to Quirpon. hoping to find a better slot tomorrow. It’s beginning to look like we will miss our target arrival in Rigolet on Sunday the 20th.

19 July, Saturday: Quirpon to Black Tickle Well, it's getting to crunch time now. We are supposed to be in Rigolet tomorrow to meet Jamie Brake and we're still tied on to the Quirpon dock. At least that was my concern about 5am when I got up briefly to check the weather and found the wind still blowing. It seemed like it had already shifted from NE to SW. where it was forecast to build again to 20-30 knots. And after this evening

the reports called for strong SW winds through the coming week. Breakfast was a bit somber, even though Mariel made a nice omelet and toast. But then the sun came out, the wind dropped a bit, shifting to NW, and the forecast seemed to give us a mid-day window of light and variable winds as the system shifted back into its SW mode. Perry took a few minutes to caulk up the pilothouse side windows that leaked yesterday, allowing us some security if we get into heavy seas. We left about 8:30. There were still some whitecaps flashing, but as we progressed further into the Strait conditions improved; we began to see humpbacks and porpoises, fulmars, puffins, and sooty shearwaters and. gradually, the Labrador hills loomed higher. Maybe we finally cracked the Belle Isle jinx that has bedeviled us for several days—another in a string beginning with Will’s departure that we hope we’ve left behind.

The rest of the day was simply wonderful. On a boat you never talk about weather until you have to abort or have done the day. Today could not have been better. As we approached the Labrador shore our confidence grew and we angled further up the coast to save time and miles, coming ashore at Camp Island, north of Chateau, just shy of Battle Harbor and Great Caribou Island, which we skirted to the west through a small channel where salmon were jumping. Several water taxis passed, bringing tourists from Mary's Harbor out to Battle Harbor, now a historic site with its former Grenfell hospital and Marconi radio site attractions. The wind stayed down and the only inconvenience was the big NE ocean swell that kept rolling in from a big storm off Greenland.

We passed St. Louis Bay. the first settlement of George Cartwright, then Alexis Bay, then St. Michael Bay and Square Island Harbor, then Hawke Bay, and finally pulled in to Black Tickle just as dark descended. Perry pointed out the location of the Portuguese fish-collecting ship that sank in a storm one summer while he was fishing here with his father. We also passed Punch Bowl, the Newfoundland fisheries depot we had visited

soon after it was established, attracting huge numbers of fishing boats only a year or two before the codfishing collapsed and the moratorium was established by fisheries official John Crosbie in 1992. We saw lots of sea birds—mostly puffins and turrs—and a few whales, but overall, not that much wildlife. For much of the passage we paralleled the course of a large ship heading north from the Gulf, probably with fuel or supplies for the Canadian Arctic. And then there were the icebergs! Not all that many, but a string of huge fellows mostly cruising down the coast about five miles east of our track. A few of these had worked their way into shore where they were melting into all sorts of visual creations. We arrived at Black Tickle to find the Northern Ranger at the dock. Surprisingly our girls, who went to explore its social life, found literally nothing stirring. Okay, it's near midnight, but in the old days that would not have been a deterrent.

It’s actually difficult to figure out what keeps a town like Black 'fickle alive these days, without cod fishing, way out in the low seaward islands with hardly any viable terrestrial economy. Fishing would seem to be its only sustenance, but it’s so controlled now that few can benefit. This is the first town—in fact the first living people—we have seen in about 75 miles of coast that 50 years ago was teeming with life in every tiny cove and harbor. Maybe, with all the fish and wildlife regulations today and the abandonment of many regions, in another generation or two we might see a birth of biological abundance that could sustain at least local populations.

Well, enough for tonight! Just now the Northern Ranger blew its departure horn. “All aboard!" Northward bound!

20 July, Wednesday: Black Tickle to Rigolet Up at 4:30 to a hazy dawn and nothing yet stirring in town except a lone man walking the pier. When I was here once with Tony Williamson, we stopped in many of the small settlements along the South Labrador coast where he had done his early work for Don Snowden's and MUN’s Killam Project, setting up local fishing cooperatives that used video tape to record discussions by village elders, and shared these tapes among different communities. At the time this was a somewhat subversive activity as it undercut the local fish barons, and, in places like Hopedale and Nain. the Moravian authorities, who were the local power-brokers. I remember stopping at one of Tony’s friends in Indian Tickle, and at another in the summer settlements of Spotted Island, Fox Harbor, and Mary's Harbor. Some of these visits for an hour of two over a cup of tea may have been the last times Tony saw these people. Snowden's operation soon shifted farther afield, to India, and other places, using the same technology. Red-haired Scotsman Ian Strachen was Tony’s equivalent in Nain, a town that he turned upside-down nearly single-handedly by creating an alternative to the Moravian-Inuit Council alliance that had run the town for a hundred years. Ian even got a hotel and bar established and built himself a posh A-frame house behind town. In time he 'went commercial,’ teaming up with Mel Woodward, the automobile and fuel baron. All this must be covered in Bill Rompkey’s books on Labrador history. At any rate, our short voyage with Tony Williamson was my introduction to this coast and probably his last personal goodbye. In the last year of his life he was contracted by the Labrador Inuit Association to write a short history and evaluation of Labrador's prospects for the future, a kind of coda to his life which had begun with an MA thesis for McGill’s Subarctic Research Center—a work that unfortunately (I think) never got published. Shortly after finishing his LIA study he died of cancer. His brother, Jed, a notable mountain-climber, lives in Hanover, N.H., and for a few years served as President of Vermont’s Stirling College.

Passing through Domino Run and the low Musgrave Land and Table Bay between Black Tickle and Grady east of Cartwright presented a very different geography from the bluff granite hills and hard-rock coasts of southern Labrador. Yesterday's transit did not allow us to poke around in the Ijords and inner passages around Hawke and Square Islands, to visit the colorfully-named places like Fishing Ship Harbor, Square Island Harbor, Mad Moll. Dead Islands, The Pippies, Cod Bag Island, and many more. Native occupation along this coast may

have been less intense than in other regions, probably because of the rugged landscape and forested interior, making caribou hunting difficult—also because interior travel routes from Hamilton Inlet by-passed this corner of Labrador in favor of river routes that connected the central Labrador coast with the Quebec Lower North Shore. Marianne Stopp has been surveying the southeast coast for many years and has documented and excavated some Inuit sites, but they do not seem to be in the concentration known north of Cartwright or west of Brador. However, more intense surveys may show otherwise. The regions around Spotted Island and Black Tickle look especially promising for Dorset, Inuit, and Indian sites. Raised beaches are prominent everywhere, and the sandy flatlands behind them appear to be excellent for caribou and certainly—as Perry pointed out—for bakeapples. A speedboat-based survey team would have a field day in this region, the only problem being the huge number of possible places to look for sites.

We passed the Grady, the early 20th century whaling station east of Cartwright where old boilers, winches and other industrial gear lay rusting away in an over-grown trash-yard. East of Huntingdon Island we stopped to fetch ice from a tiny berg-let to replenish our coolers; then past Packs Harbor where Lisa Rankin has been excavating Labrador Inuit sites—the southernmost real site concentration (now known) for this culture except for the series we have found on the Quebec Lower North Shore. Cape Porcupine and the Iron Strand took several hours to pass as we rolled our way north in the easterly swell, still not much diminished from yesterday. The day was so hot on land that by noon, the western sky was near white, and on the water, islands began to loom and blink. Transiting Groswater Bay I found its French name—‘gros’—finally made an impression on me: it is a huge body of water, and it looked even more so today with its shores hidden in the steamy air. Those three-hour speedboat rides from Rigolet to Rattlers Bight in 1968-1972 seemed short at the time, but looking now at the expanse of the bay from the unfamiliar south shore, reaching Rigolet at 5:30, twelve hours after leaving Black Tickle, seemed to take ages.

We tied up with the help of some salmon fishermen from Goose Bay who were in a small boat and apparently were doing very well by the salmon, which they described as plentiful and large. The Northern Ranger had beaten us and was already gone, and the Astron also, so we had the pier to ourselves. As soon as we tied up. we were hit with a blast of really hot air—wind from the overheated forest. I had called Joyce Allen from the boat to let her know we would be arriving later today, so Jamie Brake would know what's up. She had heard Jamie was arriving from Nain on the 2pm plane—a phenomenal occurrence, all of us landing within a few hours of each other, on the appointed day, considering all the problems we had until yesterday. When I went hunting for Jamie in town I discovered no one on the streets; Charlie and Jean Tooktoshina were half-prostrated from the head, and Ozzie and Joyce were in the same state. The air must be in the high 90s, and in Goose Bay perhaps over 100. Every once and a while a puff of fin-wind' from the bay brought relief, dropping the temperature 1020 degrees. That's when I began to notice the mosquitoes and blackflies. Our survey in Double Mer is going to be something else if this keeps up, because most of that land is forested. Charlie and Jean are off on Tuesday to St. John's for a holiday visit to Jean's family and a medical check for Charlie. On the pier I met Kenny Michelin—Josh and Ben's playmate from Rattlers Bight days. “Some stunned'’ to see me, he was, and offered help getting water and fuel to the Pits in the morning. Rigolet has no facilities for boats like ours; there are no long-liners in town now, and the only large boats are folks who come from Goose for salmon fishing and goose hunting. Jamie and Michelle Davies were in the NG government guesthouse, together with a salmon biologist. We had showers and washed clothes there and worked up plans to leave tomorrow afternoon after a presentation to the town about the project, a land claims requirement for archaeology before and after projects. Seems like we still don’t have any local participants. Most folks already have their summer jobs.

Fig 4.09: Entering Double Mer Narrows, Pitsiulak encountered strong tides and a view to the west of almost 60 miles.

21 July, Monday. Rigolet to Stag Head Arm Another very hot day, but not quite as bad as yesterday. We woke to salmon fishermen roaring out to their nets at 6:00 and had breakfast before getting organized for the field. Michelle and Jamie introduced me to Christie Shepherd at the visitor's center; she directs the NG tourist development program. I visited Bert and Tib Allen, finding them healthy and smart; Bert recalled our stormy trip to Rattlers Bight in 1971 with a huge crew hiding under tarps in his trap-boat, having to camp halfway to Rattlers Bight at Black Island. I think it was that difficult trip, and the big snow banks that still had not

melted at Rattlers Bight, that convinced him to let us (including 1 year old Joshua and 4-year old Ben) rent his cabin for the summer. I spent some time with Joyce and Ozzie around noon and heard much about the Tooktoshinas—Liz moving from Goose to Rigolet this week; Ralph suffering a stroke recently; and Sam taking over Liz's Goose Bay home. At 1:30 we convened for the town meeting and had a good discussion with a variety of folks, including Dave Wolfrey, the wildlife officer responsible for the coast from Pottles Cove to Cape Harrison and St. John’s Island in Lake Melville. He gave us some good tips on Double Mer. The ladies at the meeting were full of information about who had lived there. Tib was born at Burnt Head and other folks who lived in the summer

on the north side of Groswater Bay had wintered in Double Mer. Seals are plentiful here; and there are caribou in the northern hills and many winter ptarmigan, and fish, especially in summer, including cod. There is some information that Innu used to come out at the head of the bay. If you ascend the main stream you reach lake systems and eventually come out in Kaipokak Bay—making it a good route for avoiding the open coast around Holton and Cape Harrison. I called Lynne today and heard about her entertaining weekend hosting some famous northern writers for a program at the Hulbert Center. A second call went to Laura at the SI to check on my Quebec permit request, which seems to have been caught in some sort of limboland. Laura has asked Valerie Chaussonnet, a fluent French-speaker, to call and make some inquiries in case we are missing some linguistic nuance.

We got underway about 4:30 and had a flood tide behind us through the narrowest, eastern part of Double Mer. In a couple places there were rattles where the water was only 4-6 fathoms deep. There are quite a few cabins, on both shores. This water is completely uncharted west of Double Mer Point.

We anchored in Stag Head Cove on the south side of the Double Mer Narrows, just outside the river mouth. The terrace behind a small cabin was our

first archaeological excursion, and almost immediately we found a small hearth at the front of the terrace behind the cabin. No flakes, but plenty of charcoal. The terrace was laced with game trails, probably rabbits, and on

Fig 4.10: Our first survey area on the north side of Stag Head Cove, on a low terrace behind a modern log cabin, produced a cobble hearth and charcoal.

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the beach were tracks from wolves. A chorus of wolf calls drifted over the water as we went to bed. Ozzie had given me a salmon, and we had that and a mix of rice, peas, and com for dinner, with one of Will's bottle of red wine (thanks. Will!). Eating on the after cabin roof seemed like a grand idea at first, with the red setting sun to the northwest; but as darkness fell a horde of mosquitoes forced us inside, where they also took up residence and plagued us for the rest of the night. I had to make two bug extermination rounds before I could sleep, and by morning my bloody sleeping bag told a tale of carnage.

22 July, Tuesday: Stag Head Cove to Coley’s Brook The day began warm and still, but with a hint of westerly wind and a dropping barometer. While we waited for Vicky Allen to get to us by speedboat from Rigolet, we surveyed up Stag Head brook that drains the northern side of a lowland passage to Moliak Cove on the Lake Melville Narrows. Jamie and Tony Wolfrey had seen some of this shore in 2012 and had found a small flake scatter at a western tributary of the brook. Using the zodiac, we worked our way upstream, often in only a foot of water, to a 2K long lake that seemed to have an open terrace at its southeastern end. En route we came across huge flocks of geese with young on the grassy shoreline—several hundred birds at a minimum. As they left the water and marched in long strings inland over the grassy marsh meadow it seemed as if the entire landscape was alive. The terrace turned out to be a dud—a semi-barren slope, so we returned to Jamie’s site and found it already occupied by three yearling wolves, sans parents. They were as curious of us as we of them as they emerged from a den in the stream bank and crept along under the bank’s tangle of fallen trees and brush. We had come prepared with flares in case we found ourselves in trouble with wolves, but the adults seemed nowhere around. The cubs were almost tame enough to approach, but when we got to shore they disappeared into their den.

The “Wolf’ archaeological site (Stag Head Arm 1) is on a 2-meter high terrace spur at the junction of the western side stream and Stag Head brook. This area is now a slough but probably was a wedge-shaped sandy terrace near the shore when in use. We recorded five or six small fire-cracked rock hearth concentrations, two or three of which had flakes of Ramah chert (some heat-patinated), a bit of tan-blue silicified slate or chert, tiny fragments of burned bone (small animals or birds), and a meter from the hearth feature with most of the chips, the broken base of a Ramah chert corner-notched biface, identical to the one we found at the Henry Blake site in Northwest River, the first site to define and date the Point Revenge complex, ca. AD 1000. This site probably would not produce many artifacts or bones if excavated, but some of the hearths are still in the upper grey leached soil layer and have not been blown out, like other hearths. We surveyed the hundred meters of open, occasionally blown-out terrace, and found it dropped off into forest thickets to the west and north. Some partially open terraces exist further west that Jamie visited in 2012, but having got a cultural identification

Fig 4.11: Alciina, Jamie, and Michelle at a Point Revenge campsite just inside the mouth of Stag Head Brook. View SE.

Fig 4.12: A Ramah chert Point Revenge cornernotched biface base found in Stag Head brook site.

for this site with th point base we decided to return to the Pits and await Vicky’s arrival, which happened about 1 pm. in a new wood skiff driven and made by her father, James Williams. Their trip from Rigolet took only 45 minutes! James stayed for lunch and then returned to Rigolet. While here, he mentioned that his father had sold me a boat he had made that we used for our work at Rattlers Bight. Vicky has to be back there on Thursday to

catch the Friday boat to Goose where she will take part that concern has been growing about mercury and other as a result of the huge construction activities associated

Fig 4.13: Jamie ’$ air photo of Main River delta at the northwest end of Double Mer, North at top.

in excavations around Muskrat Falls. (Later on I heard contaminants being released from the soil and rock with this project and its impact on wildlife, especially salmon and trout.)

Fig 4.14: Approaching Main River delta: Mariel, Alcana, Jamie, Michelle, Perry and Vicky.

The run up Double Mer from Stag Point Cove took about five hours. For the entire length. Perry took soundings, which probably is the first record of this large body of salt water. Much of the expanded part of DM is 100 fathoms deep—600 feet. There are few navigational surprises until you reach the entrance of Coney’s Cove at the southeast end, where a long spit only partly above water extends north hundreds of meters from the shore. The south shore of DM is mostly high-sided and straight, while the north side is mostly heavily forested lowlands. One wonders if this might be a major timber or pulp source one day. Perry was thinking it might be a potential agricultural region in a warmer climate regime. This wider section of DM has few cabins, compared to the narrower eastern end. Thunderstorms continued from late afternoon into the evening, when we had to anchor

in one of those situations where the bottom goes from 30 fathoms to 2 in a hundred yards. Dinner was a rice, chicken, peppers, and onion concoction—very tasty, mind you! We now have a full house in the foc'sle, with Vicky occupying the folding bunk for two days.

By eight the rain was over and skies were clearing. We are hoping for a quiet, bug-free night to prepare for a vigorous day of surveying tomorrow.

Fig 4.15: View northeast from a high sand terrace, south of the first rapids on Main River.

23 July, Wednesday: Burned Head (west of Partridge Point) Flat calm all night, without bugs— hooray! We got up at 6 and had an oatmeal breakfast while considering options. Given the quiet weather, we decided to explore the head of the bay and lower part of Main River with Perry and the little fathometer he

Fig 4.16: Alaina and Mariel after bath at Main River rapids.

Fig 4.1 7: Fish camp at Main River lagoon, not currently in use, with bear barricaded windows.

had set up on the speedboat. If we find stuff, we might move the Pits closer to the river mouth. We set out about 8am and found deep water all the way to the spit and then an abrupt shoaling to two or three feet—the typical pattern for foreset beds where rivers dump into fjords. We could anchor closer to the mouth but it was too shallow for the Pits inside the spit. We spent the rest of the morning motoring upstream as far as the first rapids, about four miles from the mouth, where we spied a high open terrace to the southwest. We bush-whacked a mile or so into the country, crossing bogs, wading up to our thighs across a tributary, and climbing up the steep terrace slope whose elevation was about 175-200 feet (GPS data) above the river. We found animal trails but no

exposures and no sign of cultural activity, but the terrace did give a good view of the rivers below and the country to the north. Everywhere we saw signs of moose and bear, but no live animal sightings. Most surprising was the absence of fish; Perry fished from the boat while we hiked and got no response. We returned after an hour and a half and motored up around the bend to the first rapid, where we also found no sign of fish but took the chance to bathe. Later, Perry tried fishing at Main River spit with the same result. Very strange! We'll have to ask Vicky’s father. (We did. He said all the fish go outside for krill in July and early August. We used to catch sea-run brook trout as far out as Rattlers Bight and Smokey in the 1970s.) Returning to the river mouth, we surveyed some of terraces near the old fishing camp just inside the bar, and found no exposures or signs of culture other than some pieces of whitened bone in one of the trails. Test pits produced charcoal and possible fire-cracked rock. In a couple of other locations, we found modern campfire evidence with tin cans and beer bottles. We also checked a couple of locations on the Double Mer shore south of the river mouth, finding nothing.

Fig 4.18: Jamie and Michelle recording a test pit where we found a mammal bone in the caribou trail 0.5 km north of Main River fish camp. View SW.

The problems with archaeological survey here are several: (1) lack of exposures due to heavy forest cover (the only finds we made were in game trails); (2) few geographic features to concentrate settlement in a given local; (3) loss of terrace front site locations to river bank erosion; (4) the transient nature of prehistoric settlements (no long-term summer or winter occupations); (5) low land with thick forests; (6) extreme seasonality of resources;

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and (7) possibly little reason for prehistoric or historic people to settle permanently in the western end of Double Mer. Sites must still be here, but will be very difficult to find. Even modern settler places are found mostly in the eastern half of Double Mer; the only major settlement at DM River is a now-abandoned fishing camp, which we visited and found its outbuildings trashed. An old gas engine was outside the well-kept-up main two-story house that was used for both generating electricity and as a sawmill for lumber. Several boats and a canoe were also stored there. Dave Wolfrey told us the camp has not been used for several years. Our river fording adventure must have looked like a troupe of refugees from a Soviet gulag camp, wading with boots on in trousers soaked to the thighs, holding hands and clutching sticks for balance on the slippery rocks. But it worked; the water was not cold, and best of all, everyone was in good spirits, even with no archaeological reward. We returned to the Pits about 3pm and snacked. A rain squall dashed our plan to check the terraces next to our anchorage. From what we've seen today, terrace surveying here is not productive because of few exposures and ‘straight-shore’ geography that does not concentrate game. We had thought the river mouth would present many options for settlement and game, but it turned out to be more like the lower Churchill River and not at all like Northwest River, with its terraces cut into a steep terminal moraine. The only game we have seen here are two small jars (harbor seal), some loons, ducks, and geese. The latter were tending young in groups of 10-20 along the river.

24 July, Thursday: Main River (Head of Double Mer) Up at 7 for porridge. Last night we had a series of westerly wind and rainstorms that tossed us around and had us swinging back and forth on the anchor seriously enough to have me up turning on the fathometer so I could occasionally check if we were dragging ashore. We have little tolerance here as the water depth rises precipitously from 16 fathoms to one fathom in the space of 20-30 meters. But all seemed secure and things calmed down as the night progressed. At one point Mariel got up to rescue Perry's fishing rod that could have slid off the deck. By 7 it was calm, but the wind was still in the NW and is sure to build. Jamie wanted to survey the terraces west of the small brook abeam from our anchoring site, so we tossed the zodiac in the water and found a comfortable haul-out without too many hidden underwater boulders.

We spent 45 minutes checking the river edge terraces and testing a few suspicious rocks, but with no positive results. A caribou antler near our first test pit had been chewed by rodents eager to invest in calcium and phosphates. The caribou moss carpet here and yesterday looked luxurious—certainly no caribou forage problem or overgrazing that we could detect. There is some evidence of fire taking out patches of conifer forest and being replaced by aspen and birch. There are many sandy areas around, as well as hills covered with lichens

Fig 4.20: Alaina, Vicky, Michelle , and Jamie at cards in Pitiulak galley.

Fig 4.19: Eroding bank on lower portion of Main. River.

and mosses good for caribou, and lots of partridge berries.

Double Mer is supposed to be excellent partridge hunting area in fall and winter.

The wind was rising, but not badly, so we ‘zodiaced' down to Partridge Point, the next promontory to the SW, where we landed on a lee shore east of the point. Here we found two circular boulder features (tents or shelters) at the point’s southern side. In the woods a few meters away a drying frame of sticks was leaning on a tree. A metal foxtrap was fastened to a spruce tree here also, with a bunch of partridge feathers caught in its jaws. Fifty meters along the sandy shore was a tent site with spruce poles and a partial circle of tent-ring rocks in the sod; a small test pit in the center produced a crimped metal bottle cap. Then about 100 meters further, before reaching a marshy slough, was the cabin site recorded on land-claim maps (Partridge Point-3, GaBr-01). In a clearing by the shore we found a caribou skull and, 20m into the bush, a grassy clearing had been the site of a house or cabin. An iron stove with an “F” monogram lay on the surface lay on the grass at the N W end of the clearing, and in the center of the clearing, where a house had stood, were a bottle fragment with a

piece of rubber inner tube, and other materials. A few pits and ridges in the surface may indicate storage sheds, an outhouse, dumps, or cabin walls. A bottle with a plastic cap and a large piece of heavy green bottle glass were Fig 4.22. Caribou skull found in sod, south side of

found in the land wash where lots of clams and mussels ^ ie Partidge Point former cabin site.

shells had washed up. Clearly some good clamming and mussel collecting is possible here. A small river enters just

north of the point, and shallow, sandy, boulder-strewn flats extend out hundreds of meters from shore, except

at the point itself. We had a pretty wet zodiac ride back to the Pits, where we hunkered down to wait and see what the wind would do in the afternoon.

We are supposed to meet Vicky's dad at Fishing Ship Harbor, about a 3 hour steam from here, this evening; right now the wind is too high and we don't have any good anchorages until we reach the DM Narrows, so we're staying put for a while.

Conditions improved after lunch and we were able to depart. While we were raising the anchor we noticed hydraulic oil leaking from one of the pressure hose fittings. Yesterday while raising the anchor at Stage Head Cove we noticed leaking oil, and when checking it out I found the hose fitting

Fig 4.23: Trapper cabin site on south shore of Partridge Point. View> west.

Fig 4.21: The ‘bush’ north of Partridge Point, Double Mer.

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heavily corroded. The one leaking now was streaming oil and could burst at any moment. Jerry Jones put this system in years ago, and we should have replaced them, but it escaped notice. Now we have a serious problem, as we have no spare fittings on board. This casualty derailed our plans to survey slowly up the shores of DM, and have Vicky's dad pick her up at Ship's Harbor this evening; instead decided to return directly to Rigolet and find new fittings. Fortunately the weather and winch cooperated, and we were able to get the anchor up and got underway. En route it was calm enough for the Pits to ‘heave to' off Ship Harbor while the archaeologists went ashore to check for sites on its two rocky promontories. We found several tent-ring features on the southern promontory and in one found a piece of lead shot; others produced charcoal, mussel shells, and a caribou antler nearby on the surface (certainly recent). These may be small seal hunting camps, and while their exposed locations resemble Groswater sites we’ve found, the lead shot suggests the historic period. Meanwhile Perry had drifted east along the shore, and when we caught up with him we found he had managed to get the bad

fitting off and found one in our stores that solved half the problem; but one more hose fitting is still required.

For future reference. Ship Harbor is hardly a suitable anchorage for a boat larger than a skiff!

As we approached Rigolet, we saw a small grampus feeding off Double Mer Point, and then right after its blow, what looked like a tall killer whale fin. We saw this happen twice and thought it was an attack. But after waiting for another episode all that appeared was a grampus. Perhaps the angle of view made it seem like an orca. After we tied up in Rigolet, one or two small grampuses came feeding right around the wharf. I can still hear them blowing nearby as I write this. Vicky's father, James, came on board when we tied up and stayed for a dinner of spaghetti with cheese and cream sauce. He had fished at Makkovik for the last three seasons of the fishery. He is leaving for Goose tomorrow at 4am in his speedboat with Vicky and expects to make the trip in two or three hours. His best time is 1:45!

25 July, Friday: Rigolet and Henrietta Island A quiet night at the pier. Woke at 6:30 and watched the Northern Ranger arrive at 7 am from Nain, bound for Goose. A few tourists from Vancouver were aboard and purchased some goods at the craft shop that Sarah Oliver supervises. They have been on a side-trip to Nain, having left their car at Goose, and will continue from there by car to Newfoundland—two months into a long retirement driving tour to see most of Canada. The NR’s arrival was especially auspicious for us. as Perry went aboard and talked the engineer out of a hydraulic hose with fittings that matched our broken winch line; with some delicate cleaning of the rusted threads. Perry was able to make a clean repair. While this was going on, we found a way to fuel the boat with the help of Ozzie Allen’s truck and two borrowed fuel drums and an electric pump. It took eight 50-gal. drums (1640 liters) and cost $2300—the most cash the ‘gas station' attendant Harvey Paliser had ever transacted. When I returned the truck and gear to Oz, I gave he and Joyce my pictures of friends from Hamilton Inlet in the early 1970s. We provisioned the boat, and the crew got showered and clothes washed at the B&B. A phone check with Laura provided no resolution of the Quebec permit issue; Laura had been in touch with Clarissa Smith, who said that other types of permits from that Natural Resources office were also delayed. We are trying to reach Ted and Sandra Timreck to warn them of a possibility that the filming project in Brador might have to be aborted. Monday will be d-day I guess; if we don’t have a permit by then. I

Fig 4.24: The Northern Ranger, at Rigolet dock, supplied us with a hydraulic hose to repair our anchor windlass.

Fig 4.25: Gull chick awaiting dinner. Fig 4.26: Tea Pond boulder beach overview with

limit cairn at left and pit feature center-low. View SW.

may dump the Brador project.

The day continued sunny as we left for a survey of the western side of Henrietta Island, where Dick Jordan had recorded an Inuit burial in the early 1970s and a local person had found a water-worn biface tip on one of the islands at the eastern entrance of the Narrows. We anchored in a quiet channel between the small islands and spent a couple hours surveying. The small southern-most is Jackie’s Island and is hardly more than a shoal barely above water. Strangely, this is where the biface was reported found. The larger Island to the north had

several Inuit tent rings in a cove on the northern shore and a possible Inuit cairn grave on the southern side of this beach-pass. Hundreds of terns wheeled overhead, raucously defending the eggs and new chicks on the ground we were walking through. Many (unripe) bakeapples and blackberries were also present. Crossing to the mainland, we checked a cove where Dick Jordan had found a burial of an Inuit woman in 1973 at the Tea Pound site (GaBo-01). His report mentions a ‘disturbed' grave, so it's unclear how the grave was excavated, but he reported human bones and a set of grave goods that included an iron ulu (a curved woman's knife) and other women’s articles. The odd thing about the grave was its location far from an Inuit village on a high boulder beach, next to a conical cache pit and a depression that might be an early Maritime Archaic longhouse. We returned to the boat about 6pm and soon realized the tide was beginning to rip through our ‘anchorage’—which clearly is no anchorage at all, but one of the many tiderips that become active at certain stages of the flood. Reconnoitering nearby harbors (none), we decided to return to the security of the Rigolet dock. This we had to do against a fierce incoming tide; at one point we were making only 3.5 knots at full throttle. Some of the rips contained companies of seals feeding on small fish, driving them up to also be fed upon by a crowd of terns. The Rigolet pier has never been a fine piece of work; it juts out with boulders showing on the west side and, on the east, a green navigation light warns of a

Fig 4.27: Rigolet, with school at right and Hudson Bay store at left. View W.

dangerous shoal. The steamers in the past had to anchor off and lighter in people and freight, usually calling in the wee hours when no light is available. To partially cure this, they have built a small dogleg on the end of the pier, allowing the coastal boats to pull in directly. Tonight there is a cold SE ‘in-wind” blowing, and fortunately we can slip in here without competition from local long-liners. This is a town of speedboats, not long-liners: people hunt seals or tend salmon and trout nets or travel to their cottages with families in small fast boats.

There is no pier-side fuel or water, but no docking charges either. I was even able to buy our fuel as stove oil, not diesel, at ten cents a liter less—expensive, nevertheless. Dinner was a Chinese-style stir-fry complete with Raman noodles, courtesy of the Northern Stores specialties shelf and ‘Chef Michelle', and a raspberry-apple crumble made by Mariel. I did the wash-up—a colossal heap of pots and dishes.

26 July, Saturday: Rigolet to Long Harbor The

Northern Ranger arrived from Goose Bay quietly, in the fog, at 7:30, sending her bow line to the pier across our bow. Fortunately, we had moved in far enough last night to be clear of her berth. LOTS of cargo was unloaded, including several pallets of beer, a box of windows, and a couple of small boats. The in-wind had diminished, but it was still foggy when she left a couple hours later, and we could hear her foghorn as she headed out the Narrows.

Before the others were up, I ducked out to the B&B to get the shower I missed yesterday and returned to find a big plate of scrambled eggs and fried bagels. We still needed fresh water and were fortunate to have the loan of Christie Shepherd's and Eldred's pick-up to haul it from the town water dispensary down the road from the dock. Two hauls totaling about 150 gallons in various containers topped off the starboard water tank. While filling containers, Edward Allen, one of Bert's sons whom I had known from Rattlers Bight, appeared, and we had a chat. He has lived in Goose and for many years, travelling

the coast to counsel people with alcohol and addiction problems.

We left about noon for the Backway, planning to survey as far as possible to the east, and had a calm, warm steam in slack water. Shortly after entering the Backway, we came upon a low cobble raise beach and went ashore, finding an abandoned snowmobile (sans engine and other scavenged parts) and two tent rings and a hearth feature on the second beach ridge toward the north end of the beach (GaBn-01). Both tent rings were circular, bordered with small cobbles, with no internal features other than small cobble hearths in their centers. Test pits in the center of the rings were unproductive and we found nothing except a bit of burned bone, charcoal, and charred wood in the external hearth. The site does not appear to be Inuit (no sleeping platform divider or Inuit style hearths). Their low elevation indicates a recent date, probably

Fig 4.29: Jamie Brake, Mariel Kennedy, and Michelle Davies documenting a probable Innu tentring site near Hanniuk in the Backway, Hamilton Inlet.

Fig 4.28: Raised beach tent ring site with abandoned snow machine a kilometer east of the SE entrance of The Narrows. View E.

Fig 4.30: Testing a tent ring at Hanniuk, a Paliser family camp on the NW shore of the Backway. View N.

Fig 4.3 F. Hanniuk point. View SE.

in the past 1-200 years. Lots of driftwood drives up on this SW-facing beach and we saw seals and a grampus offshore. The upper cobble beaches appeared devoid of cultural features. Harvey Palisher, who was manning the Rigolet gas station when I bought fuel the other day, had mentioned that his great grandfather, Joe Palisher, told about ‘“playing with Indians” at their family place at Hanniuk. only a mile east of this site. I wonder if this site might have been one used by Indians at that time. Bakeapples were ripening everywhere, but none were ready.

Our next stop was the Palisher site at Hanniuk, where McKenzie (?) Brook exits at a small point that offers protection for a gravel cove west of the brook. A small low island offshore looked like it might have boulder structures on it, but rising wind kept us from visiting that place and other locations east of the brook. We found the Hanniuk site (GaBn-02, 03) full of interesting things: several circular tent rings in the tundra vegetation on the point (one was tested; no finds); rock features around the neatly-kept Palisher cabin (with an Old Town canoe was cached beside it); a rectangular foundation of an old house in the sod behind and northwest of the cabin, partly overgrown; and west of the cabin along the shore, behind a thick growth of ‘pushki'

(cow parsnip; Indian celery ) where boats have been pulled up and sometimes abandoned, we found on the surface a castor oil bottle, a blue glass bead, an iron stove, a fork, transfer print ceramics and many other 19/early 20th C. artifacts. This entire area is a large midden and would be an excellent place for a detailed study of historic settler life and may also have aboriginal sites. Harvey Palisher father Hubbard Palisher had the place after Joe, whom I had hired in 1968 to show me the boulder pits on the top of Pompey’s Island. We had to cut short our visit because the east wind was rising, and we crossed to the south side of the Backway, checking for sites toward the west. This coast is shoal and was unapproachable, but we got ashore at the one protected cove directly south of Hanniuk and found a couple of tent rings in the one west-facing beach where goose hunters had camped and left tent poles on an earlier TR site. Higher on the beach we found a cluster of rocks that may be part of another tent ring. Someone has recently built a small

By this time, the wind had risen and fog could be seen running south in the Narrows. We planned to return to Rigolet, but when we got to the north side of the Henrietta Island we encountered huge rolling waves driven by the exiting (east-bound) tide meeting the easterly wind. Rolling and pitching, we reached the turning point north of Henrietta Island and started into the main Narrows, but all we could see was pitching breakers, standing waves, and fog. We still had both the zodiac and speedboat in tow and they were becoming a serious concern if we were to continue. There seemed to be no path for smooth sailing, and the boat was not prepared and battened down for what was ahead. While I was topside securing gear on the cabin roof. Perry abruptly turned the Pits 180 degrees around, away from the breakers, and back against the tide that was carrying us into the maelstrom. A great decision, as I think we would have lost zodiac and smashed up the speedboat had we continued. As it was, within a few minutes we were back in calm water and sunny skies, beating east against a 6 knot current, and soon entered the only real harbor—other than Rigolet—in this Narrows region. Long Harbor, on the SE side of Henrietta Island. It is entered over a 2-fathom bar, but once inside, it offers a calm, deep harbor. We anchored in 24 fathoms at its

Fig 4.33: Toning auxiliary boats south side of Henrietta Island. View east.

‘inuksuk’ pile at near the north edge of this beach area. No diagnostic materials were noted.

Fig 4.34: Michelle, Mariel, andAlaina on forest trek' at head of Long Harbor, Henrietta Island.

Fig 4.35: Recording boulder feature (a disturbed limit grave?) at east end of Carrington Island, south of Henrietta.

northern end and could see across the low overland pass to the north fog racing down the Narrows, but here there was no wind at all. Later in the evening, squalls and rain appeared from the south, but we were safe and sound. This is certainly a ‘ship harbor'!

27 July, Sunday: Long Harbor to Rigolet Our harbor lived up to expectations and gave us an uneventful night. By 7am, we had a pocket of sunlight around us, the wind was in the northwest, and the fog was burning off in the Narrows and across Lake Melville to the south. The girls made up pancakes and Jamie assembled his drone, hoping to photograph the winter houses on Eskimo Island. We went ashore briefly at the north end of

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Fig 4.36: Eskimo Island-3 (H2) Labrador Emit winter site , looking south across Lake Melville toward Carrington Island.

Long Harbor to see if there were any open terraces, but all we found were bouldery hill-slopes and thick spruce. The weather remained calm as we transited the south shore of Henrietta Island, and so we decided to run across to the south side of the bay, to Carrington Island and the nearby point, which had never been surveyed. Carrington is an attractive island with a beautiful small sandy beach at its east end. Just above the beach we found a stone feature that may have been a ransacked Inuit grave (GaBp-11).

Despite excellent flat areas of tundra we did not find any other sites, and the same was true of the small island to the east where someone from Rigolet has a cabin, around which they had placed nail board strips to discourage bears. Here we managed to capture some blackberries. In an open area across the tickle we found a small tent ring with charcoal flecks in its central hearth area but nothing else. The next stop was across to Eskimo Island, which I had not visited for many years. Jamie brought his drone ashore and tested it out on Eskimo Island 3, House 3, the northern-most structure. I was quite surprised to see how large the Eskimo Island 3 houses were, and, of course, the Eskimo Island-1 complex with its huge structures. The drone operation was very interesting. When Jamie first flew it, it went high in the air and I thought it would be whisked off by the wind, which was quite light; but he brought it down in a 4 soft' crash without damage and got a few pictures with his Go-Pro camera. In several more flights he managed to get it to hover over H3, but we found the structure almost completely indistinguishable in the video

imagery from the surrounding vegetation; only an old unfilled test pit showed up clearly. The Go-Pro camera was programmed for a wide view, so only a small area in the center field was in true proportion; gimbals keep it

pointed down, and you can program it for telephoto shots and for hovering over a point using its GPS function. It would take great shots of an excavated area, but it takes training to fly successfully, with precision. Jamie did well considering he’s only flown it a few times. This drone was acquired for Nain’s Nunatsiavut Archaeology Program partly as a school project, and the kids helped build it from a kit. Our last stop was the eastern shore of the Narrows north of Henrietta Island. This area seemed to have good settlement possibilities, but when we got out we only could find a tent-ring with a U-shaped hearth (17-18th C Inuit?)(no artifacts), a probable Inuit grave (already opened), and a seal cache. This shore is completely covered in tundra and peat, with no exposures; it also did not seem to have much prospect for settlement. The end of the day was glorious, sunny and warm. The current in the Narrows was running strongly toward Groswater Bay with hardly a ripple compared to the chaos of last evening. Once tied up at Rigolet, with the aid of youngsters who were fishing up scuplins, we were ready for beer and dinner: spaghetti and

Fig 4.3 7: Jamie and Michelle prepare drone at Eskimo Island-3. View SE.

Fig 4.38: Inuit fox trap on east side of NarroM’s.

moose meat from Perry stash and blackberry turn-overs engineered by Mariel. At 9pm we had to move the boat to make way for the Astron, which was arriving at 11. One of the fishermen Perry met on the pier asked who was fishing on the Pits. “No one,” Perry replied. “Well, here's a salmon to keep you going!” So we are fixed up for supper tomorrow. The mosquitoes are ferocious tonight.

28 July, Monday: Rigolet to Rigolet Still and hot at the pier this morning, and the outside of the window screens are paved with nippers. You would never know the Astron had been here for a couple hours last night, delivering heavy cargo like cars and leaving without a sound. Today is the day we're supposed to find out about our Quebec permit, but that's not likely to come until later in the day, so we went off to survey the Palliser Point at the north entry of Double Mer. Perry anchored off the next point to the west, where Tony Wolfrey’s grandfather had a cabin. Jamie had surveyed this last year but he had not checked the shore to the east, toward Palliser Point. We saw many seals here, and the shore was alive with moulting and fledgling geese. The thick midden vegetation and a cleared rectangular area right at the point probably mark the cabin site, and in the land-wash we found stove parts, iron spikes, and other materials. A small test in the middle of the house site turned up some window glass.

While the crew surveyed the shore I ran the zodiac down to Palliser Point and met them testing a peat blowout on a terrace behind the small cabin presently on the site. Part of a tent ring and what seemed to be hearth rock had been exposed (GbBo-16). We excavated the hearth and made a profile of the peat, which was about 35 cm thick and had four levels: surface unconsolidated peat, a layer with decayed wood, 3-4 cm of consolidated wood, and a thin layer of charcoal on top of sterile gravel. On the beach gravel near the stone feature were small pieces of burned bone. Once again, no diagnostic artifacts. Today there is one cabin on the point, next to a collapsed log cabin.

West of the cabin a heavy growth of pushki and grass marks a midden from earlier occupations, and in a small depression north of the midden area, a test pit produced clay pipes, nails, a spoon handle, and other material (GbBo-17). Considering the place-name, this material, or parts of the midden, may be connected with the 18th or 19th century Pallisers. We have seen a couple examples of spoon handles now, and I wonder if they were detached purposefully from the spoon ends that were often used as

Fig 4.40: Paliser Point at northeast entry of Double Mer. Site areas to right of cabin and between trees on hillside. View S.

Fig 4.41: Hillside site at Paliser Point. View S.

Fig 4.39: Fine eating anyone? Rigolet kids and Jamie with sculpin catch.

ornaments on Inuit women’s parkas.

Fig 4.42: Paliser Point historic limit midden west of cabin. Few SE.

Returning to the boat I called Laura and found no progress had been made on our Quebec permit. Valerie Janssen seems willing to process a reinstated permit request (the previous one had ‘expired’) as soon as the Lower North Shore Natural Resources office approval materialized. I left messages for her and Daphne McKenzie at DNR. and I asked Laura to see if Sorena Etheridge at QLF and Clarissa Smith in Brador could place calls to Daphne to show local support for our work. Supposedly some decision might be expected tomorrow. In the meantime I learned from Laura that Ted and Sandra were going to use their ferry reservation because they

could not postpone it. (I called them in the evening and caught them waiting in line for the boat.) So we have

decided that whatever the permit outcome is, we will meet Ted and produce some kind of educational product, possibly by visiting Harrington. Mecatina, and Jacques Cartier Bay sites where we have worked in the past. If the weather is good in the morning we will begin the trip south, leaving Jamie and Michelle in Rigolet to make our joint report to the town.

Fig 4.43: Broomfield Cove Inuit winter site from water View SJV.

With these communications done, we crossed to the southern entrance of the Narrows, passing Collingham’s Cove, which did not look interesting, Jordan Point (also not enticing!), and anchored east of Broomfield Island, a small low place with three cabins and a couple of possible small boat landing areas. The channel between it and the mainland was 3-10 feet deep and provides good protection for small boats. Toward the western end of the channel is a large grassy place that from the water seemed to have some depressions that might be house foundations. When we reached it and stomped around in the grass we found ourselves tripping over boulders and falling into pits—more of that ‘lumpy ground’ Perry had found when he weed-whacked the grass and vegetation at Hare Harbor on Petit Mecatina. A few test pits executed under rain squalls and mosquito distress produced 19th century ceramics (annular and transfer print wares), another spoon handle, seed beads, square nails, a fishhook, an iron barrel hoop, a leather boot heel, and many other items. Seal bones were scarcer than 1 would have imagined for an Inuit winter village; also there were no entrance passages—only doorways and short entries ending abruptly at the shore bank, and no clear definition of outer walls or sleeping platforms. One could question

if this is Inuit or settler, but the latter would never build cheek-by-jowl or have an entry pitching onto the beach.

Fig 4.44: Broomfield Cove winter site, view east.

There appear to be three houses—the proper number, like all other Inuit village sites. Beads, the entries, and spoon handles are probably good Inuit indicators. The site (GbBn-15) seems to date to early-middle 1800s and may fill a gap in the local Inuit settlement history, possibly being the last traditional Inuit village before moving into separate family winter housing in Rigolet.

At least this is a testable hypothesis. Possibly some of the Inuit in Rigolet, or those now having cottages near the Broomfield site, may know of the existence of this settlement. Jamie says there are Broomfields in Rigolet with Inuit ancestry.

Late in the afternoon I called Laura to check on the Quebec permit. Still nothing, so we decided to ask Clarissa and Sorena to let the Natural Resources people know about our community support, in case they were not aware. I also had a chat with Igor and found that the Arctic Studies Program proposal was nearly done and will be submitted later this week. He’ll send me an email draft by Wednesday. We returned to town just before of the Northern Ranger’s arrival from Goose and had a great dinner of salmon, mashed potatoes, and coleslaw to celebrate the last night of our project and in anticipation of Jamie's 36th birthday tomorrow. Hopefully our fine weather will hold for a few more days.

29 July, Tuesday: Rigolet to Curlew Harbor (Cape North)

Despite my assurances to Jamie and Michelle that we would not leave them on the pier at some ungodly hour (on his birthday, to boot!), we did just that! Perry started the generator shortly after 5am, bringing us to the erect position in a matter of minutes. A glorious sunrise was lighting the cloud-streaked eastern sky beet-red, and within an hour Jamie and Michelle had collected their stuff and we were saying goodbyes over coffee, remarking on the success of the project and hoping we could continue to work together in the future. We left at 6am with a good tide running with us. On the way we noted a few excellent raised beach series just west of Turner Bight.

From here to Pottles Cove the land is low, with many islands and small harbors, and would have been suitable for old settlements. Very few archaeologists have visited this area, but a few sites have been reported. This would be a very promising survey location. Crossing the exposed bay off Porcupine Strand was a bit choppy with a southeast headwind, but conditions improved once we were among the islands off Cartwright, passing Packs Harbor and heading toward Grady. Too bad we don't have time to visit Wendy Davis and Geoff in Cartwright. I had a quick visit with them when the Adventure Canada cruise made a town visit last September. South of Pottles Cove (Fish Point), the SE wind grew stronger and by the time we reached Cape North, we began to get tossed around and we still had another 25 miles before reaching a lee shore in Indian Tickle or

Fig 4.47: One of two sod houses at Curlew> Harbor hunt site. View’ SE.

Domino. So we turned back into Curlew Harbor, where we found a small sailboat also taking shelter, a double-ended ketch flying Labrador and Canadian flags. Squalls and wind continued all afternoon. Perry kept gazing at the reddish vegetation ashore, dreaming of bakeapples, but here on the outer coast, spring comes late, so we're still a week or two too early for berries. When the sun came out in the late afternoon,

I noticed some lumpy ground on shore at the south end of a large raised beach series—mounds covered with tall grass, one of which had a mess of pushki growing on its seaward slope. I had made a pea soup for dinner. After supper, Perry ran us ashore as dusk was falling, and we only had a few minutes to inspect the site, which had high sod walls, a depressed interior, a multi-tiered stone doorway, and a tunnel entry—surely an Inuit sod house! Another house may lie adjacent to the south, and a third, grown in with brush, may lie upslope and behind the first, to the east. We had no chance or time to test for age, but House 1 reminds me of the high-walled Labrador Inuit sites at Okak. I do not have a precise GPS location, but the site is behind a small shore outcrop of brown rocks and is approximately located at 53° 45.5' N, 56° 32.4' W. The raised beaches run for hundreds of meters behind the sod houses and are almost certain to have archaeological sites, given the location close to Cape North and its rich supply of sea mammals and fish. The sod house site adds a new Labrador Inuit winter village to the growing list of sites Lisa Rankin has already found and excavated in Cartwright and fills the gap in the Inuit distribution on the South Labrador coast that Marianne Stopp has been researching. (In October Lisa mentioned that she has a record of a site in this location.) Back aboard, I found the weather fine for a bucket bath on the stern and then showed Alaina and Mariel my pictures of Neolithic sites (Skara Brae,

Maes Howe, Circle of Brogdar, etc.) from my Scotland and Orkney trip with Lynne in 2013. The wind is still dropping and is supposed to shift to SW by morning.

30 July, Thursday: Curlew Harbor to Hawke Harbor Today was frustrating. We were hoping to reach Red Bay, but fell far short due to a combination of wind and mechanical problems. We were up and off by Sam with a red dawn and a bank of fog offshore.

Perry chose to take the passage around the west side

of Island of Ponds instead of the usual run through Indian Tickle, past Domino, and Black Tickle. The inside route is well-charted but some places are only 2-3 fathoms deep, so most vessels take the outside run for safekeeping. The inside run passes through very low land (Musgrave Land) and has many beaches, making it difficult if one were to do an archeological survey. With the sea 10-20 feet higher, there would be innumerable islands and passages. When we emerged into the open sea, we found the swells from yesterday's SE wind still quite large, and on top of that, the SW wind was kicking up a chop. Perry wanted to see what was left of Punch Bowl, so we stopped briefly in this little harbor with its 50-meter wide entrance where the Newfoundland Salt Fish Corporation built up a cod-fishing station in the late 1970s. We had stopped here a couple of times in

Fig 4.48: Sunrise and fog on Grady islands, Cape North. View E.

the past, and Perry had fished here for a year or two before joining us. At that time there were docking and fuel facilities, a repair shop, a small grocery store, housing for service people, and good radiotelephone communications. Fishermen had put up scores of tiny shacks and stages for themselves or their families on rocks and ledges around the harbor. Everything was bustling and optimistic and fish were being landed in large quantities. But the entire program went bust a few years later when the codfish crashed. Today, Punch Bowl is a ghost town with its facilities removed or trashed and most of the shore camps weather-beaten, blown off their foundations, or completely collapsed. Hardly any are still being kept up, and we saw no sign of life. The only solid structure left is the dock, which is still in excellent condition, inviting us to tie up, but we did not have time. Instead, we circled inside the harbor a few times while I called Laura about permit progress (none!). I reached Ted Timreck in Cow Head and alerted him as to possible delays. He may try to postpone his reservation on the St. Barbe-Blanc Sablon ferry, Apollo.

Leaving Punch Bowl, we found conditions worse in the open sea, do we took Squasho Run around the west side of Hawke Island; this is a gorgeous passage with high hills and rocky cliffs much of the way. It’s a miracle that such a narrow passage could result from nature. All the way through, we found the run lined with buoys for nets or traps (for periwinkle?) being tended by men in speedboats. I have no idea where these men are based. Toward the end of the run Perry discovered two of the three engine alternator belts had failed, which may explain our poor battery charging capacity over the past few days. So we headed for Hawke Harbor, site of a long-abandoned whaling station, to install replacements. Inside the harbor, the weather was fine and we spent the rest of the day while Perry worked on the engine lounging about, sunbathing and washing clothes. A visit to the whale factory was really interesting. It sits on a patch of low ground alongside a 100 m long stream connecting a lake and the sea. The stream supplied two huge steam engines whose remains dominate the jumble of rusted tanks, boilers, pipelines and other gear. A large number of winches and geared machines align with a concrete ramp where whales were drawn up onto a blubber-stripping platform. What at first looked like a gigantic trash dump actually turned out to be a highly organized industrial complex that entailed a huge

Fig 4.51: Remains of Hawke Harbor whaling station. View SE.

Fig 4.49: Abandoned fishermen's cabins at Punchbowl, south of Black Tickle. View NE.

Fig 4.50: Punchbowl dock, still serviceable. View S.

financial investment and a large work force, quite apart from capturing the whales in the first place. On a granite knob above the factory sit three huge steel storage tanks with steam-heated coils inside. These tanks must have been torched when the plant was abandoned, because the heat of the fire burning its blubber residue melted the tanks and caused them to buckle and collapse like pie dough. The entire scene smelled of whale oil and was an eerie sight against the surrounding primeval barren granite hills that made the brown metal complex look like something from another planet, or a glimpse of Earth after the apocalypse.

Fig 4.52: Hawke Harbor: Industry or modern sculpture?

Perry investigated the factory first, and then I returned with him and later with Alaina and Mariel.

Everywhere, the ground still stinks of blubber, and pieces of whale

Fig 4.53: Hawke Harbor station seen from the tanks south of the site. An other-worldly vision among pristine Labrador granite hills. View NW.

bone are strewn about. Ravens and a black bear are the current proprietors. This site is a much better representative of a by-gone era than Grady, the other Labrador whaling station, whose gear is scattered about and not concentrated in one place as at Hawke Harbor. Like Punch Bowl, every nook and cranny that could hold a cabin lived was marked by green grass, and some of these places have modern cabins and stages, but were unoccupied during our visit.

Dinner was spaghetti with a special Mariel sauce, accompanied by Perry’s moose meat, I ate the last two of our Springdale plums. We ditched two foul bags of moldy grapes that had been hiding in our 'cooler' under

the galley bench. I tried for some codfish

but found nothing biting. Toxic waters from the whale factory? I doubt it, after a century. Still no berries or bakeapples. By 1 Opm. you could still hear surf sucking at the three rocky shoals protecting the harbor entrance and Pits was rolling cross-wise a bit. Predictions are for a quiet night and morning, with the wind shifting back to SE again later in the day.

31 July, Thursday: Hawke Harbor to Red Bay Up at 4:30 to a still morning and a red sunrise with the sun peeking through a slit in the clouds, looking like a huge angry red eye—a devil’s sunrise if I ever saw one! But it did not turn out so. Once out of Hawke Harbor, we found the swells down and virtually no wind, and these conditions held until we arrived at Red Bay about 3pm. The SE wind never materialized, but after passing Chateau we steamed through scattered banks of fog. Off Grandby Island, we saw a couple of small skiffs whose occupants pretended they were just out to see the sights, sitting in their drifting boats doing nothing. Perry guessed they were way over their codfish catch limit and were nervous about the appearance of a strange, well

kept vessel like ours, which might be a fishery patrol. “If we get close, they'll start dumping fish overboard.'’ Five fish per person per day does not feed a family for long when the season is only available a few weeks each year, so people do what they need to do and try not to get caught.

The trip was pretty uneventful—only a few whales were spotted, but quite a lot of turrs, one group of which was all clumped up in a mass. Fulmars, gannets, and terns showed up as we entered the Straits. Yesterday, near Black Tickle, we saw a flock of male eiders, but none south of that—they're all still up north. What has been most remarkable about the bird life this trip are the thousands of fledging geese we came across in Double Mer. What was a bit strange was not to see a black bear, considering all the shoreline and riverbanks we passed and bushwhacked through. Lots of the bear scat we ran across was fresh, including a big pile at the Hawke Harbor whaling station. Perry found one place at the factory where a bear had excavated a small pit in a stinking mass of 100-year old oil-soaked sand.

We still had not heard of action on the Quebec permit, and today was the 31 st, one day before we were to start. Perry was not keen on taking the Pits beyond Red Bay since that would entail two long hauls in this often nasty piece of water, and a marginal docking situation at Brador. So we decided to tie up in Red Bay and commute to Brador, either to dig if the permit was approved, or to film at the Hart Chalet if not. I reached Ted, who was still in Newfoundland and found he had not been able to postpone his ferry passage. He agtreed to rent a car for us in Blanc Sablon, and he and Sandra would drive both cars to Red Bay tomorrow. Fortunately, when we arrived, we found the government wharf empty and serviceable enough to leave the boat here safely for a few days while we were digging in Brador.

When we tied up at the wharf a couple of old gentlemen appeared. Jim Yetlin—in his seventies, I guess—turned out to be an old friend of Jim Tuck’s who had observed the Red Bay archaeology project close-up. “Lots of bickering between ‘those three' (meaning Selma Barkham, Robert Grenier, and Tuck), but archaeology changed the town.” Today there is not a single long-liner here, and everyone who is fishing uses speedboats. Clarus (Bim) Bridle, co-owner with Marily Bridle of the Whaler’s Station Restaurant and shop, told me Red Bay was to have had a big celebration this summer to commemorate the site’s recent World Heritage designation. Last year’s festival had been dubbed an ‘unofficial’ event because Parks Canada did not have enough time or money to pull off a large affair. This year's effort turned out to be more of the same and ‘unofficial' to boot. They put up a “Welcome Home” sign on the new reception building that had been constructed to accommodate ship tourists, but, of the project leaders, only Grenier returned. The ‘aging fleet’ and the Harper Government have taken a toll—too bad, since the site deserves widespread recognition and publicity. Clarus says a 50-room hotel was to have been put up as part of a long-range development plan, but noted, “How could it have been financed on a 3-4 month seasonal basis when accommodations are available in Blanc Sablon, L'Anse au Clair, and other locations less than an hour away.” The gravel road stretching north of Red Bay invites only the hardiest tourists. It would be interesting to know what kind of visitation Battle Harbor gets. Phil, one of the employees at the Red Bay Museum, says tourism has been a bit off this year.

Before going for supper at the Whaler's Station Restaurant I called Igor Krupnik, who now is our anchor at the SI since Laura has gone on holiday to Toronto. “Good news. Bill! You got your Quebec dig permit!“ Well, what do you know! The day before d-day and it finally came through! We shall now have archaeology to do and put on videotape. Florence Hart will be very pleased, as will the insect pests around her place. Igor is also putting the last touches on the ASC program proposal, due in the director's office today. Dinner was T-bone steak for Perry and codfish for the rest of us. A nice change from Pitsiulak pasta!

1 August, Saturday: Red Bay Fog and gusty wind in the morning. Glad we are not trying to be making make our way through the Straits to Brador! After breakfast we climbed up the hill behind the wharf to the Parks Canada museum with the chaloupe and met the interpreters, who were busy brewing up pea soup for lunch. While trying to get wi-fi from their system, one of the interpreters, Alice Moores, took pity on our unwashed state and bags of dirty clothes and gave us a ride to a convenience store that offers showers ($7.50 each) and laundry services ($5.50 per load). It wasn't long before we had racked up a $70 bill. Alice also offered the use of her home internet connection and introduced me to her son Bryan, who is in his mid-20s and has Down's syndrome. On-line, I got copies of the ASC proposal from Igor and word from Valerie Janssen and Daphne McKenzie that my permit request would be approved, but not the actual document. Perry and the girls showed up when the laundry was done and we had an interesting time talking with Byran, who showed us his childhood pictures. Later, Alice picked us up and drove us to the boat. She works part-time for Parks and on Sundays is the local United Church minister. It turned out she knows Perry's United minister on Long Island. We had lunch at the Whaler's Station

Fig 4.54: Model reconstruction of a 16th C. Basque tryworks on Saddle Island on view at the Whaler’s Station Restaurant in Red Bay.

Fig 4.55: Undated photo of Parks Canada s underwater and Memorial University's land excavation teams at Red Bay in the early 1980s, with dig chiefs Robert Grenier and James Tuck rear left and right. Photo on display at Whaler s Station Restaurant in Red Bay.

and inspected the cooperage model there, discovering a photo of the combined Parks and MUN archaeology teams from the mid-1970s that showed a young Jim Tuck and Robert Grenier as well as Doug Robbins and

others I know.

Fig 4.56: Pinware River seen from the highway southwest of Red Bay ; View NW.

Ted and Sandra were to arrive this afternoon on the Apollo from St. Barbe, Nfld. While waiting tor them we took advantage of the low tide to collect mussels, which were plentiful along the shore. We had collected about half a pail when I heard my name called by a familiar voice. Ted and Sandra had arrived and with their car and a rental van from the Arctic Cat/National Car Rental agency in Blanc Sablon. There followed six hours of story-telling and eating moose-meat stew, onion bread, and apple crumble, aided by a bottle of DeWar's scotch The dreaded (by Mariel) dog ‘Bodr also made his

appearance, be-lying all the tall tales we had told Mariel previously about a wolfhound that would have the upper bunk across from hers and would be licking her face all night long. (Mariel is not fond of dogs.) Bodi, a tiny creature, turned out to be a very competent Pitsiulak resident, exploring all its nooks and crannies and expressing great curiosity about our pantry, cooked mussels, peanuts, and even an old crab claw. Bodi. Ted and Sandra retired to Will Richard's stateroom and had a pleasant night's sleep. They had had a wonderful trip driving up, visiting friends in Nova Scotia and museums. Ted was particularly pleased to visit Port aux Choix, where he had a revelation about botanical issues and Native American knowledge.

Fig 4.57: Alaina and Mariel clearing brush from FI art Chalet House 1, view north through entry into house.

2 August, Saturday: Red Bay to Brador More fog and SW wind. After breakfast we packed up and drove in two cars to Brador, stopping briefly to enjoy the amazing Labrador views in the highlands around the Pinware River. Very few cars were on the road, and only a few passed us going north when the Apollo disgorged her load of vehicles. They are re-surfacing the road in Blanc Sablon and are holding up cars in single lanes for 1020 minutes each way. One local lady was so incensed she cursed out all the road workers she passed. But the road surface is grand. We found Florence out tending her garden, which had some beautiful lilies. She had only returned to home Thursday from visiting her daughter and found “so many weeds.” Over coffee, tea, cake and sugar pie, she told us that Clifford has been losing a little weight, but otherwise nothing much has changed in his condition. She was pleased to have us use her home and cabin, “as though it is your own.” During the past year she succeeded in getting the power of attorney so she, not incapacitated Clifford, is now the legal owner of her home and cabin. Before lunch we made a quick reconnaissance of the ‘chalet’ and dropped off our digging gear, discovering the black flies rampant, as expected. At noon, we rendezvoused with the National Car rental guy and transferred the contract for the van from Ted to me. had lunch at Pizza Delight, bought groceries for Florence, and returned to the site to set up the grid while Ted and Sandra shot scenics from the Brador River

to L'Anse au Clair. At the site, we re-strung the datum triangle, cut the grass, and set up the grid on House 1, the house we trenched last summer. As we worked, a large rabbit was grazing on the leafy quatrefoil-like ground cover, quite unconcerned with us. The bee nest north of the datum last year seems to have vanished. It was hot and buggy, but not unbearable, and Alaina and Mariel soon got the hang of working under head-nets. We returned at 7pm and made a chicken stew for dinner. Florence had left to care for Clifford and returned at 10pm with many bags of groceries, despite our admonition not to shop or cook for us. One of the stories she told was about how she started working at the hospital and later organized the nursing and help staff, who were receiving only $36 a month with no time off. She led the women confronting the administration and got major improvements in pay and work time. While shooting in Brador, Ted and Sandra had an interesting talk with Elliot Smith. Clarissa's younger brother who is a raconteur with many tales and stories to tell. These days people are out in the bogs picking bakeapples, but very few are ripe. One of the day’s surprises came after dinner as we sat around the table and discovered peculiar lights and sounds across the road. Soon we were enjoying the largest home-grown fireworks display I’ve ever seen, with miniature bursts of the classic shots. The occasion was a party for a friend of Sorena Etheridge, the local QuebecLabrador Foundation representative who has been helping Ted find a way to upload our interviews to the Smithsonian through the local TV station website.

3 August, Sunday: Brador Our first day digging.

We switched to Quebec time yesterday, and, as a result, began to experience daylight at 4am, and by 6:30 had already missed a big chunk of daylight! But, after all, it was Sunday, so we had a nice omelet breakfast with Florence before piling into the van and heading to the Hart Chalet. I got the girls started opening a square, and Ted set up his camera on a high rock outcrop near shore where we did several interviews for the Smithsonian Q?rious education office. Then they left us and

Fig 4.58: Mariel and Alaina beginning the excavation at the Hart Chalet hunt winter village (House 1) in Brador View North.

drove to Red Bay to check on the Pitsiulak and shoot scenics along the way. They also had a chance to visit the Red Bay Park Museum. At the site, we dodged rain showers most of the day, but managed to get several squares opened and acquainted Mariel and Alaina with digging procedures. It's rather slow, rooty work because of the spruce trees that have grown up in House 1, and we did not make any great finds. Much of the best stuff was probably in the midden that was excavated by Clifford back in 1968 or so when he dug out the cottage’s bathroom drain line. Sandra and Ted made chili for dinner, that was spruced up by bakeapple preserve Florence had cooked up following her berry-picking excursion today. During the afternoon, Florence dropped by the site and reminded me of the Maritime Archaic tools that had been found near the road just east of the cabin ‘driveway.’

We began work at House 1 by opening up the eastern half of the units from the 1x8m trench excavated through the middle of the house last summer. We established the NW corner of last year's Unit D as the datum point and gridded the site off in two-meter squares. Mariel, Alaina, and I excavated 6N2E first, finding a deposit only 10-15 cm deep with humus overlying a charcoal-stained sandy soil, and that lying on sterile yellow gravelly marine-deposited sand. The floor level in the eastern part of this square had broken brick fragments, but probably not representing more than a few bricks. Its northern portion had some cobbles on the floor, maybe a hearth. In the middle of the unit, we found a small partially rotten plank and a piece of the same wood set vertically into the ground with a pointed end—a stake of some sort. A few nails and the top of a green glass bottle were the only artifact finds. The southern part of the eastern half of 4N2E cut into the front wall (east side) of the entryway; its northern quadrant was part of the house floor and had numerous broken brick fragments. A flat slab lay on the floor in the balk separating it from 6N2E. The soil profile here was similar to 6N2E: the wall section displayed grey sand under a tough, rooty humus zone. A few rocks were incorporated in the wall, whose top was about 50 cm above the outside ground level. No artifacts other than brick fragments were found in this unit. 8N2E produced a few nails and showed complicated stratigraphy owing to the lack of clear definition of the rear sleeping platform (no inner floor slab pavement or slabs on the platform) and the slumping of the rear wall. We have been trying not to overly disturb the roots of the larches growing in the house by not cutting all of its roots, but the crisscrossing roots make digging difficult.

4 August, Monday: Brador Perry and Florence were up soon after the 4am sunrise, planning to pick bakeapples before

Fig 4.60: Artifact cache on floor in front of west house bench, with iron point, square iron bar, saw blade fragment, bottle glass, heavy (lead?) mineral, and other items. North at top.

the sun got hot. Alaina, Mariel, and I reached the site about 8:30 and spend a full sunny day digging, often hacking at tough sod and roots. Ted and Sandra met with Sorena Etheridge of QLF at 10:30 and worked out some plans for up-linking Ted's edited field shots. Perry and Florence appeared at the site after berrying, with modest gains. Garland Nadeau, whom we met at the Middle Bay Interpretation Center this evening, put berrypicking in perspective: “Today I picked 30 pounds, and in the last two days, 60 pounds. It's the best year for berries in many years. For us locals, bakeapple picking is part of our cultural tradition, like an innate right; nothing can stop us.” The site work was rough, lots of sod busting. But when Mariel got below the top wall turf, she started finding lots of animal bones. Alaina got tangled up with a large wasp-looking creature (a timber fly?) with a huge ‘stinger’ that took a fancy to her square, apparently looking for a place to lay eggs in the tree

bark. I found a pocket of artifacts on the NE floor of 4N0E, including part of a saw blade, a stemmed iron arrow point, pieces of bottle class, rectangular cross-section iron bar, nails, and a lump of a blue-green mineral like rock.

I wonder if the Inuit were prospecting for minerals of interest to traders? Alaina started work on 4N2W, the SW corner of the house near our very productive test pits of earlier years. Ted and Sandra came around 4pm to do more filming. Fortunately we had something to show. We all got bitten up quite a bit by flies during the day.

Sorena had set up a meeting with the Middle Bay Interpretation Center folks for the evening. We hoped to film them talking about how the center was created and how local museums can help preserve a community’s culture and heritage. Garland Nadeau, the head of the museum board, also came. We had a spirited conversation in the midst of their display, “Five Cultures:

Innu, Inuit, Basque, English, and French.” They are eager to maintain contact with the Smithsonian and want to encourage our archaeological research, especially in the Five Leagues area, the outer reaches of the Middle Bay region.

Our archaeological work progressed well. Alaina finished her work in 8N2E, reaching the bottom of the cultural deposit, where she found a glass goblet fragment, but also shreds of plastic, indicating some disturbance. The stratigraphy was humus over grey sand, over peat (except in the northern square meter), over dark charcoalstained cultural level, over sterile gravel. There is still no clear evidence of a rear sleeping bench, but we shall look carefully at the profiles later. Other than a glass fragment, the only finds were a few small nails. 4N4E began producing animal bones once Mariel got below the cracker berry root mass in the wall. Most of this material seems to be caribou bones from a midden dumped on top of the outer wall. She also came across a lens of charcoal 20-25 cm below the surface but this seems to extend outside the wall rather than into the house.

The eastern half of 4N0E paralleled MarieFs square, with caribou and at least one whalebone in the south wall, while in the north half we found the house floor with a partial ring of small rocks and a 20cm long whalebone on the floor. 30-50 cm south of the larch tree in the northern wall, I continued excavating the area where I had found a cluster of artifacts yesterday, recovering a small piece of copper sheet (later lost). The floor level could be deduced by a layer of charcoal-stained black earth consistently 165-170 cm below datum often with pieces of broken brick or tile. A large mass of brick fragments in one location probably was the remains of a whole frost-shattered brick. It is not clear whether the rocks were actually a hearth; they were not charcoal stained or

Fig 4.61: Whalebone fragment in 4NOW

fire-cracked. The western half of the square rises twenty to thirty centimeters from the floor and may be part of a sleeping bench.

5 August, Tuesday: Brador Our string of fair weather continued with perhaps the finest day we've had in Brador so far. Perry and Florence began rustling around upstairs when it got light about 4am, preparing for more bakeapple-picking. They returned with several full buckets while we were having breakfast and made another excursion in the afternoon. Last night was quite cool, with a north wind, but the morning soon heated up and the flies were as numerous at the site as before. My experiment in trying to stay cooler while digging by removing my dungarees and wearing only my coveralls failed miserably, when I discovered many black fly bites in otherwise protected areas. This morning I suffered double layers and periodic applications of Repex (DEL), the brand we learned to use from the Brinex miners in the 1960s but which has since been banned because of its toxicity (it melts plastics, for starters). 1 cleaned up the western portion of 4N0W, which seems to have been a sleeping bench with no floor deposit present.

Mariel continued work on 4N4E in the southeast corner of the house and found a few nails and some Normandy stoneware near the doorway. This is the first of this type found here and indicates a 17th century or later date. Aliana began work on 4N2W, a square that includes some of the test pits of the past couple of years. I started 4N4W, also with earlier test pits. We are getting large amounts of bone in these new units. Ted edited a 4 Viminute intro film for our Q?rious program and talked with his Smithsonian contact,

Colleen Popson. on the phone. He and Sandra interviewed Elliot Smith, shot fishermen landing herring at the Brador wharf; and in the evening Ted and I shot a segment on the Inuit along the shore between Brador and Blanc Sablon. The water in the Gulf was so still and glassy there was hardly enough swell to keep the gong buoy ringing. It was one of those days when the horizon disappears and the islands appear to float of into the sky. Tomorrow we are to get the tail end of a hurricane passing east of us. Sorena called to let me know she had worked out an arrangement with Garland Nadeau for me to visit Five Leagues with someone who knows the area, and set up a meeting for us with the Whately Museum in St. Paul.

Fig 4.62: House 1, 4N/0W, view N. showing the central house floor, and to le ft of roots, the vt >est-side bench. Cache M’as to upper right.

The Hart Chalet site continued to open up. 4N0W, just inside the door, to the west, combines a western half that appears to be part of a raised sleeping bench and an eastern half with a cobble feature and a cluster of interesting artifacts (see yesterday’s account). Brick fragments (rather than tile) defined the floor level, ca. -160 to -170.

The raised bench area in the western half of the square had a very thin '’floor level and few artifacts. This level was about 20-30 cm higher than the floor, and there seems to be no retaining wall at the front edge of the bench. Perhaps the sleeping bench was retained by a wood log or plank. A large larch root ran along the edge of the bench, perhaps having got its start in the rotted wood. There was also no clear demarcation of the junction between the bench and the SE house wall, which must follow the southern edge of the unit.

6 August, Thursday: Brador We

were supposed to get the edge of the hurricane today, with thunderstorms and a 60% chance of rain, but it didn't happen. The day was fine from start to finish. Perry went to Red Bay to check on the Pits during the afternoon and said the Straits was completely fiat calm the entire way—some 75 km. Apparently the storm shifted course and passed further to the south. He and Florence went berry-picking early in the morning, out past the chalet. We met them on the chalet road as they were coming out, driving a young rabbit ahead of them. When we returned to the site after lunch at Florence's we got stuck in a Traffic jam' of bakeapple-pickers on the chalet road. While passing a car I rolled down my window and spoke to an elderly man and his wife returning from the berry fields Perry and Florence had just picked. His response when I asked about berries was, ‘"No, boy, the berries out there are very poor, covered with black spots and overripe.” I did not let on why they had been unsuccessful, and after we passed them Florence, sitting next to me, piped up. laughing, “Just like they say, the early bird gets the worm.”

Perry found the boat in good shape, ran the generator, and returned in time to pick us up at the site at the end of the day. The weather was a bit cooler and the bugs not so fierce. Nevertheless, MarieFs face is bitten up, but she professes complete unconcern, digs without a head-net, in a t-shirt, and seems totally oblivious to the little monsters. “I put on plenty of bug-dope,” she says, but it doesn't seem to be working. At least she is using benedryl in the evenings. Me—I’m totally covered and lathered with Repex, but with sweating in the heat, I need to re-apply every couple hours. Alaina seems above it all, at least about bugs. She just keeps plugging along and hardly has any bites.

Today the site had two big surprises. The first was the appearance of a couple of long-tailed mice that we occasionally saw dashing around in the grass. Then Alaina took the turf off the western side of her square and found a mouse nest lined with grass. “I felt really bad disturbing the nest, but at least it was empty,” she said. A while later I went to see what Mariel was up to on the other side of the site and found a small olive-colored baby, feebly scratching the earth, looking about to expire. Somehow it had managed to cross the excavation squares with its eyes still not yet open.

In Alaina’s palm all it wanted to do was suck her warm skin. Mariel to the rescue! After she made

Fig 4.64: Seal mandible from midden in House 1.

it a nest in a plastic drinking cup and got it to drink some water, the little thing perked up a bit. But at the end of the day we had to put it back in the old nest with some water, hoping the mother would come fetch it.

The second bit of excitement (it was a pretty uneventful day, after all!) was Mariel’s discovery of many more fragments of the grey stoneware milk jar. These pieces followed a dark band in the soil we had thought was a sterile old ground surface, but apparently it was part of the house floor. The entire base and much of the side of the vessel were assembled by evening—with more pieces hanging out, probably in the square to the north, which we probably will not have time to excavate. Mariel then started a 50-cm wide trench through the wall east of 4N4E to explore the stratigraphy and see if we could determine the inner edge of the east sleeping platform. A lair. a. working on the inner edge of the west house wall, found a medium-size blue glass bead, nails, a small rectangular copper pendant with a tiny pierced suspension hole (a clothing decoration), and a patch of thin hard skin-like material pierced with a nail that may have been part of the roof covering. My square, 4N4W, lay on the outside of the house wall where we had dug two test pits in previous years and found it to be a rich midden. My excavations in the NW quadrant today produced a large quantity of food bone—mostly caribou and some seal, but also a possible wolf or dog jaw, and many other mid- and small-sized mammals. Much of the

Fig 4.65: The smaller, southern mound, also never back-filled, about 75m west of the larger mound.

Fig 4.66: The larger (northern) of two Early Maritime Archaic burial mounds excavated by Rene Levesque and Clifford Hart in the late 1960s east of the Harts home in Brador. View E.

deposit had mussel shells mixed in, and this had helped preserve the bone, including a fair amount of fish bone. Nails were quite common, and I also found the same type of tin or copper pendant Alaina found, plus a trigger-shaped hooked piece of iron (seems not like a fishhook), a sliver of cut copper, and a couple small pieces of cut whalebone.

Ted and Sandra spent most of the day editing video and running back and forth to the local TV station, where they successfully up-loaded the edited introduction and had a discussion with Colleen Popson in the evening. Florence prepared us a really nice macaroni and ham salad for lunch and a dinner of codfish. She and Perry each picked a small bucket of berries, and for the evening, she made us a bakeapple upside-down cake with custard sauce.

7 August, Friday: Brador Perry and Florence got back from berry-picking before we left for the site, looking less bug-bitten than usual because the weather was cooler and wind was from the east. This was the first breeze of any sort we’ve had since Hawke Harbor. We got to the site about 9am and put in three hours before returning for lunch. Digging was productive but not spectacular. Our first move was to check the 'mouse house' for the foundling we left in it yesterday. To the girls’ relief, no mouse-let was there; so it either crawled away on its own, got rescued by its mother, or got eaten. Mariel made progress pushing her 50cm trench through the east wall, finding some nails in the turf and upper grey sand. Alaina worked

Fig 4.67: Eastern side of the un-back-filled MA burial pit, showing a possible external ring of rocks at the edge of the mound. View E.

down into the top levels of 4N2W, finding a caribou skull fragment and bones in the upper grey sand and some nails. I worked on the upper part of the 4N4W southwest, quickly getting into bones and finding a few nice artifacts: pieces of a Normandy stoneware vessel, nails, a tool tang or shank, a whalebone knife handle, a piece of goblet glass, and a couple pieces of worked whalebone. After lunch we interviewed Florence about the Hart's archaeological collection, principally the Maritime Archaic cache Clifford found while he was excavating the foundation for his house. They also have a Maritime Archaic slate stemmed point, a Dorset chipped chert knife, a Shield Archaic (Northwest River phase) biface, and a few probable Basque spikes, and some lead musket balls. Florence was nervous about speaking but did a great job nevertheless. Ted uploaded more material to Colleen at the TV station.

Fig 4.68: A possible third burial feature in the limestone barrens east of Brador. View NW.

filled the excavations. The southern mound was the smallest with its bluish slate flakes on the ground, and a couple brown quartzite cobble spalls.

at the eastern end of this high terrace overlooking a lake to the east, was a much larger mound, with a deep, excavated pit and a high berm composed of rocks tossed out from the inner mound. The remains of three grid stakes on the south side of the burial pit and a vertical stone Levesque had placed in the center of the pit were still standing. I found no flakes or artifact fragments in the exposed gravel backdirt. As I recall, Levesque found the tools (presumably in a burial chamber) in a stone cryptlike structure beneath stone slabs; the assemblage and architecture suggested a date of 6-8000 years. However, when I ran a couple of radiocarbon samples he supplied the dates were much younger (3-4000 years?), so I assumed the samples were not from the burial context; the

After the interview we went for an excursion into the limestone '‘barrens” east of Florence’s house looking for the Early Maritime Archaic burial mounds Rene Levesque and Clifford Hart excavated around 1968.

We found them only a few hundred meters from the highway by taking the next a dirt road running east north of Florence’s house. I had seen the collection in the 1980s when they were shipped to the CMC in Ottawa for inspection. They included full-channel gouges and triangular points. I briefly visited the mounds with Clifford in 2001 and was impressed with their location and the fact that Levesque had not backpit opening to the north. We found a few

About 200 meters to the northeast,

Fig 4.69: Turkey dinner a la Florence, with Alaina, Mariel, Sandra , Florence, and Ted.

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discrepancy has never been resolved. Levesque seems not to have noticed a ring of rocks circling the outer edge of the eastern mound, a few meters beyond its edge. There is a possible third mound a few hundred meters farther south with a white rock on top and a standing slab on the north side of the mound. A cold east wind blasted us up on the barrens, but Ted and I found a quiet place for an interview in the burial pit where I talked while eating the season's first blueberries I found in the shelter of the pit.

Fig 4.70: Sandra Kingsbury and Ted Timreck: goodbye smiles as they begin car trip south.

Florence made a wonderful turkey dinner to mark Ted and Sandra's departure tomorrow: pease porridge, turkey dressing, turnips, carrots, potatoes, and salt beef—a meal Newfoundlanders call a “jigs” dinner (but it need not have

meat, according to Perry). While she was preparing

Fig 4.7F. Fresnel lens at Forteau Lighthouse.

it, Sorena Etheridge dropped by to give me a copy of Francoise Niellon’s 1995 French-language report on Brador's heritage resources. Sorena is off tomorrow for a 2-week vacation in Newfoundland. We called Will Richard after dinner and found him harvesting the best trumpet mushroom crop in years. Sadly, Lindsay recently suffered another injury, cutting her leg in a fall on their front steps. He has been working on captions for his book on Uummannaq and was wistful about the summer, asking if I needed help. The girls and I missed his power excavation technique and dry humor—to say nothing about his sour cream pancakes and spaghetti—but it's clear he had more important business at home. Ted is leaving one of his Sony video cameras with us so we can finish up recording our work. Alaina and Perry will be our videographers.

8 August, Friday: Brador Weather caught up with us today: a cold all-day northeast wind, fog, and rain. We had hoped to get a morning’s digging in but by the time Ted and Sandra were ready to leave for the ferry the clouds socked in and it began to rain. We took a misty group picture just as they were leaving. With no chance for work we drove to Red Bay to check on the boat, which was doing fine. After a snack at the Whaler’s Station we returned to Brador, stopping only for some groceries. En route, we got a glimpse of the huge construction project underway on the north side

of Forteau Bay, where a 13 mile tunnel is being drilled under the Straits to Newfoundland to cany the Muskrat Falls power line; eventually this is to be the route of a vehicle tunnel. We also visited the Forteau Lighthouse museum and climbed the 132 steps to the top of this massive limestone block tower whose walls are 8 feet

Fig 4.72: Mariel and Alaina with fresnel lens at top of Forteau Lighthouse.

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thick at the base and 4 feet thick at the top. One family manned the lighthouse for three generations, and its keeper is said to have climbed the tower as many as ten times a day. It still operates with three spare bulbs at the center of a Fresnel lens and its light can be seen at sea for 26 miles. The most dramatic event to occur here was the wreck of the warship HMS Raleigh in the fog on August 8, 1922. We also got a glimpse through the rain of the L'Anse Amour Maritime Archaic burial mound, which is getting overgrown by vegetation. A small slab stands a few meters from the east side of the mound. We saw a similar vertical slab (but on the west side) at the possible burial mound we noted in Brador yesterday. While hunting for a small cooking oil boiler for Florence, Perry found an old-fashioned crank meat-grinder he'd been looking for years for at the marine hardware store in Blanc Sablon. I spoke with Garland Nadeau when we returned to Florence's and planned an excursion to the Whitely Museum in St. Paul on Sunday, followed by a visit to Five Leagues harbor area.

9 August, Saturday: Brador We spent a long day at the site today, in nearly bug-free conditions. The low pressure system that has been moving across Newfoundland, dumping rain and blowing strongly from the SE finally moved off-shore. A strong easterly wind was still blowing, but as the day progressed patches of sun appeared and the wind began to drop. The breeze made for good berry-picking as well as digging; Perry and Florence sallied out to some remote bogs in the Mosquito Cove area and did very well; they have come to have an easy relationship and enjoy talking, joking, and working on projects together, with Perry acting as her chauffeur. We got to the site at 8am and left for home at 6pm. During the morning neighbors showed up at the cottage next to the chalet and we heard the bellowing of that overly-friendly German shepherd that half-mauled us with affection last year; this year he stayed put. Perry and Florence dropped by in mid-afternoon to check our progress. By now a good patchwork of squares has been opened up in the cottage's back yard. While they were visiting, I found a soapstone cooking pot rim-sherd fragment—the first soapstone piece so far from the site. It is unusually thin for a Thule or Labrador Inuit vessel and might be Dorset. In addition, Alaina found a beautiful Dorset-like side-notched biface base of grey chert, apparently included in building sod. Perry picked up mussels from the Blanc Sablon store and we had these for dinner along with a pork chop meal stewed with tomatoes, peppers, and onions.

The international news has taken a turn for the worse— as it always seems to be doing; the US has now begun bombing ISIS targets as they close in on many refugees unwilling to convert to their religious faction. The girls did a fine job with the long hours today. We are quickly running out of time for excavation if we are going to leave Brador for Red Bay on Tuesday. The somewhat early departure results from wanting to have some extra

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Fig 4.74: 4N4W midden square outside the west M’all of House 1, with shells, fish and mammal hone. North at top.

weather days beyond the two-day run to Perry's home. All day long we heard the whine of trucks on the road as they began widening the macadam to the full two-lane width, and occasionally we hear the roar of the rock-crusher that is preparing gravel at a quarry on the high hill 10 km north of the site. The fishermen had not been able to get out for the past two days due to the stormy weather. Herring is the big catch these days. A couple days ago Ted filmed boats coming to the Brador pier completely full of herring, a dangerous load that was possible only because the sea was flat calm. A passing boat wake might spell disaster in such a situation, and many a young fisherman has been drowned in this way.

I finished work on 4N4W this morning. This unit is a midden lying west of the House 1 S W corner and averaged 15-20 cm deep. Bone begins right under the turf for about ten cm and then mussel shells appear in patches within the black earth midden, preserving many small mammal, bird, and fish bones associated with the shell. These pockets appear to be localized dumps, suggesting all

Fig 4.75: View’ to east along trench inside south wall of House 1.

were being cooked together. Large mammal bones (mostly caribou), broken for marrowextraction, dominated in both the upper and lower midden and were the most common element

among the bones, with seal a distant second. Nails were found throughout the midden, and a few pieces of thick Normandy stoneware. We screened the shell midden portions and recovered many small bone fragments and a round discshaped metal piece. A few small pieces of cut whalebone

were

Salmon Bay

Caribou Island |p fie de la Demoiselle

Hi

Bonne-Esperance Island lie de Bonne-Esperance

Fig 4.76: Map of St. Paul River and bay at Whitely Museum in St. Paul showing location of early European sites.

present, as well as a knife handle and a blue glass bead; no

Fig 4. 77: Plaque at the Whitely Museum in St. Paul with illustration of the cod trap that William Whitely invented.

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Fig 4.78: Working team of the Whitely Museum: Lori-Lee Thomas (standing), Garland Nadeau (left), Chesley Griff n (middle), and an assistant.

earthenware, faience, clay pipe fragments, or musket balls, and very few tiles.

Mariel finished the 50x150cm trench across the house wall east of 4N4E, discovering the wall to be constructed of multiple sod layers with some grey sand. Bones and nails were found in small quantities, mostly in the upper levels, probably from roof deposits. The original forest peat layer cut by the house pit excavation was clearly visible, as was the inner house sleeping bench wall with its charcoal-stained sand. The benches may have been covered with wood planks, or just with skins; there were no platform retention rocks or slab floor pavements. So far we have not found any evidence of a cooking place other than the small cobble feature in 4N2E, if indeed it is a hearth, for none of the rocks are burned and there was no thick charcoal layer.

10 August, Sunday: Brador—St. Paul—Brador We spent the entire day today down the shore, first at

St Paul's where we met the leaders of the Whitely Museum and then hiked out to Five Leagues harbor with Chelsey Griffin (address: St Paul's River GOG2), the owner of the St. Paul's General Store. Garland Nadeau had arranged the day and met us at the Whitely Museum, along with the museum’s curator, Lori-Lee Thomas, an artist whom I had met several years ago at the Chevery Heritage Conference. We talked for about an hour about the history of the Pt. Paul River region and its Inuit, Basque, and American fishing operations. Garland had guided Charles Martijn and Pierre McKensey when they did their survey in the area in the 1980s. They

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Fig 4.79: Chipped stone tool display at Whitely Fig 4.80: Chipped stone tools at Whitely Museum.

Museum.

Fig 4.82: Iroquoinpottery vessel with castlatedrim at Whitely Museum.

Fig 4.81: Ground stone gorget and axes at Whitely Museum.

Fig 4.83 a, b: Basque rechauffleur warming dish dredged from the bay several decades ago.

Fig 4.84: Engraved motif on Basque warming vessel.

found some Inuit remains (a mandible) and artifacts, (a snow-knife) in boulder features but did not come across a settlement site. Their experience with archaeologists had been disappointing because they had hoped the

Fig 4.85: Chesley Griffin on beach at Five Leagues Fig 4.86: Five Leagues village, view to south,

in front of his uncle’s renovated home.

archaeologists would identify the port of ‘‘Brest”, which did not happen, and no long-term research program

developed. Today they are fervent about developing a strong heritage program and are hoping we can help. The

Whitely Museum, open since 1997, is named for William Whitely, the inventor of the cod trap, and houses a

wide range of local prehistoric and historic materials. What caught my attention most was the archaeological

collection (see photos), including a surprising series of tiny notched flint point types, a fully grooved gouge,

full- and % grooved axes and hammers; a tiny bird-stone, a four

holed hour-shaped gorget, and other pieces—none of which have 1

ever seen in this part of Quebec, or in Labrador or Newfoundland.

Among the collections nothing reminded me of Labrador cultures,

and the only Paleoeskimko material was Groswater—there were

no Dorset or Ramah chert pieces. Most of these artifacts came

from people's gardens. Lori Lee Thomas showed me a pedestalled.

brown-glazed, earthenware ceramic pot her uncle dredged up years

ago while scalloping; it has four strap handles, figurative medallions

(escutchions?), and a wave-like rim that reminded me of our Hare

r . i a-, a u i i Harbor rechaufieur soup-warmers. The museum has a nice range of

tig 4.87: An amazing bake apple season , , , T , , ,, , ,

on the Lower North Shore! literature and a book I bought called Northern Seas, Hardy Sailors

Fig 4.88a-c: Basque tryworks at Five Leagues harbor.

(1982) by George Whitely, grandson (?) of William Whitely. What this town needs is a young Phd student to build an archaeology career here and long-term relationships with the town.

Our walk to Five Leagues was most interesting. Chesley Griffin led us to a small parking area where the highway turns west to descend to Middle Bay. A trail 3-4 kilometers long leads over a ridge and past the east side of a small lake and across a marsh to a cluster of houses on the west side of Five Leagues harbor. A few of these cabins are nicely kept up. including Chesley's family places; but the settlement is clearly on the wane. The bay is shallow, and a wide tidal flat appears at low tide. A couple of weathered whale ribs collected from somewhere along the shore were sitting in the midst of a bunch of ripe bakeapples (In fact, our progress throughout the hike was interrupted continuously by stooping, picking, and eating berries too tempting to pass up.). Along the shore we found artifacts eroding from the bank or exposed on the mudflats. A particularly interesting spot is the point where the path passes a rock outcrop at the shore just before you reach the cottages on the east side of the harbor. Chesley had found roof tiles and other objects here. He led us through the village to a cove with tall grass at the southeast comer of the harbor, beyond the last houses, where there was a low sod mound. 2x10 meters long, a few meters from the shore. Rodent holes in this grass-covered feature had brought up clay roof tile fragments and burned and charcoal-encrusted rock—clear indications of a 16th C. Basque blubber oven. We walked out around the point, finding little of interest, and had lunch on a ridge overlooking a broad sandy bay where Chesley is building a house. From here we walked the shore to the south, up over two high boulder beaches, where we found caches and boulder structures quite a distance above the water.

From here, we walked to the northeastern point of the peninsula west of the long sandy point where Chesley

Fig 4.89a,b: Boulder-walled shelter dwelling at Five Leagues headland.

Fig 4.90: Raised boulder beach with cache pits and structures.

Fig 4.91: Shell deposits could be used to radiocarbon-date raised marine beaches south of Five Leagues.

showed us two circular boulder structures quite near the shore that to me seemed to date to the historic period.

These structures are built into bedrock ledges and have walls made from boulders—sometimes very large rounded ones—piled two to four rows high, with entries opening to the southwest (the shore). The structure closest to the shore may have a fireplace pit beneath an outcropping rock ledge. Nothing looked aboriginal or Basque; they seemed more likely to be shelters erected by a ship-wrecked crew or some other type of impromptu circumstance. We did not have time to map or poke around in the structures for diagnostic materials, but their origin and date might be established easily. Chesley knew of these structures from his childhood days

playing here and swimming in a small freshwater pool in the rocks near the shore south of the structures and imagined them to be mysterious and alluring. We did not have time to inspect the long beach and boulder ridges extending NE from the point. They are certain to contain caches and possibly boulder dwellings, though their elevation in the

sections we could see were fairly low and therefore of relatively recent age. On the return hike though berry-laden bogs, we crossed another high boulder beach that had numerous boulder caches and dwelling-sized pits; just north of this, on a trail, bits of mussel, barnacle, and clam shells were eroding at the surface—an important location for getting a handle on the dating these uplifted beaches. We sampled the shell and photographed and GPS-ed the location, but did not have time to get an accurate elevation above sea level. We noticed another series of boulder caches and possible dwellings where the trail from “Chesley’s beach'’ ascends to the Five Leagues houses, and behind the houses in the village we saw

small pits mark graves Chesley knew of. Down at the harbor, we found the tide far out, exposing vast fields of steamer clam holes. We dug a pail-full in just a few moments; then, beneath one of the rocks embedded in the mud, we found a lobster den. Chesley says he often caught lobsters in these hide-aways by probing from the side of the boulder, flushing the lobster into the open. All-in-all this excursion made for a very productive day

Fig 4.92: Boulder pits and houses behind Five Leagues village.

Fig 4.93: Alaina with steamer clams rescued from the mud.

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and pointed to the need for more serious research in the future. While the harbor today is quite shallow, it has enough water for shallow-draft ships and has fine protection from the sea and wind from all directions, while also offering access to rich marine resources in the bays and nearly islands. Some test pits in the vicinity of the cottages might reveal very interesting results, and there are many coves nearby with grassy banks indicating former habitation. A boat survey is needed to accomplish serious work here.

Fig 4.95: House 1 interior, looking northwest.

Fig 4.94: View of SW corner of House 1, view August, Monday: Brador Today was our last full day SE. a t the Hart site, and we got an early start at 7:30 with bright

sunny skies and a light east wind. By noon it was quite warm and the flies were not too ferocious, so I cast off my protective gear and relied only on Repex, which got me through the day until 4pm when the bug net was required. Perry and Florence came out at 1pm, and Perry did a video interview with me in my House 2 entry square with Ted's camera and took shots of the girls doing profiles. Mariel finished the eastern half of 8N8W, finding no midden and only a few nails at the south end of the H2 entryway. Then she teamed up with Alaina to finish 4N2W, the unit at the SW corner of the house. Bones and nails were found throughout, in small numbers. The highpoint came at the end when they extracted what seemed like a large nail from the west end of the north profile; it turned out to be a long iron spear point similar to the one found in the 2013 test pit in the eastern half of 4N4W. This square has a raised sleeping platform resting on the old forest floor peat. The artifacts were found in the greycharcoal soil resting on this old ground surface and below the present turf. My square at the entry of House 2 reach a stopping point at the end of the afternoon with three quadrants excavated to sterile sand: the SW, SE, and NE quads. We don't have time to do the NW quad. Nevertheless, it is giving a good picture of the entry, where surface showings indicated two piles of rock that had fallen into the entry from their original positions as door posts, becoming just a jumble of rocks mixed with bones and a few artifacts. In the eastern pile I found nails and the remains of a burned, broken up soapstone pot, all in pieces and mostly outside the limits of the square’s east wall. These pieces were the usual thickness (ca. 1.75 cm) for Labrador Inuit pots; the small thin piece I found yesterday was less than 1 cm. thick and highly polished like a Dorset soapstone sherd. Many of the rocks piles on the east side of the doorway had failed onto the

house pavement slabs. The deposit was consistent from top to bottom. Below a tough turf ol cracker berries a grey sandy soil with pockets of peat and charcoal-stained soil packed with bones continued right down to either floor slabs or hard-packed charcoal-stained peat; below the floor slabs or peat floor was sterile grey beach sand. Besides bones (mostly caribou), flakes of tan or grey-brown quartzite were present, a relic ol an eailiei prehistoric Indian occupation. Nails were found from top to bottom, and bone preservation was genei ally poor.

Fig 4.96: View west along rear (north) wall of House 1.

6-9

Fig 4.97: A liana and Marie! after a strenuous morning of back- filling.

especially in the upper and lower zones. Many were too friable to extract from the hard-packed peat-sand soil and will be difficult to identify, but are mostly caribou. Artifacts were also spread evenly throughout the cultural zone, but the better preserved whalebone pieces all came from the lower zone if not actually on the pavement. Thin grey/grey and grey outside/brown inside stoneware sherds (both types were present) were found just under the turf, and another came from the floor level. Whalebone artifacts included a piece of a sled runner broken across a lashing hole; a very nice mid-section fragment of a whalebone foreshaft with a scarf joint; and a large piece of whalebone of unknown function worked flat on one side with a flange or ridge protruding from one edge of the opposite side. Charcoal was scarce in the cultural level, but some of the rocks had been cracked in a fire. Still, we found no evidence of a wood fireplace or residue from an oil lamp, and no glass beads, earthenware, or clay pipes; but I did find a few pieces of roof tile on the pavement floor. The floor pavement is well constructed, with several large slabs fitted with smaller ones. However this pavement does not extend into the NE comer, where the floor seems to have been peat or had a wood covering. A large wood beam on the floor level in the SW quadrant was either a fallen entry passage roof beam or lined the western floor of the entry tunnel. Nails were often found on or just above the floor. This house seems to have had little direct contact with Europeans, judging from the limited inventory of European artifacts.

Fig 4.98: Perry and Bill clearing gear off the Hart Chalet site.

12 August, Tuesday: Brador to Quirpon It turned out that yesterday was not quite our last day at the site! We were not able to complete everything and had to return this morning to finish drawings, profiles, and back-filling. It was another beautiful, calm day, and after the site work, showers, lunch, and laundry were done, we drove to Red Bay in time to cross the Straits to Quirpon, arriving just after dark, about 10:30 Newfoundland time (losing an hour and a half from Quebec Eastern daylight time). At the site I took profiles of the east and south walls of 14N8W and mapped the rocks. No surprises here, but it was too bad not to dig the square’s NW quadrant. I showed Alaina and Mariel how to draw the big north profile at 4 North, from 5.5 East to 8 West, and Alaina did detailed profiles of the east and west House 1 wall sections.

Yesterday they had mapped the surface topography of Fig 4.99: Mariel and Alaina relaxing in Pitsiulak the whole site area and the elevation of the rocks. Perry foe’s ’le. showed up about 10am and did a few interviews with

the video camera covering the completion of the excavation. Backfilling was hot and quick, the only problem being the lack of surface sod for some of the squares because there had been no sod—only forest floor duff—for the inner floor of the house, beneath the larch trees, so I had to cut a few new pieces from the area in front of the cottage. We swept up the cottage interior, took final photos, packed the van and were back at Florence's at 12:30. She had prepared a lunch of leftovers, and by 2:30 we were all jammed into the van and heading for Red Bay, along with Florence, who had agreed to return the rental van to the Arctic Cat shop. They have my credit card and promised to give us a break on the long-term lease.

Arriving at Red Bay, we found the Pits and speedboat in good condition after nearly two weeks of mooring at what turned out to be a well-protected but poorly maintained government wharf. A group of vacationers in the small boat slip were lamenting the destruction of the props of their twin outboard runabout, which got banged up in a botched attempt to launch the boat from their trailer. As they were casting about for how to find replacements, we waved goodbye and set off across the Strait. The water was white calm all the way across, with hardly a ripple showing until we passed Cape Norman, when fog and a SE wind kicked in. We never seem to be able to find good conditions on both sides of the Strait because of the meeting of different water and air masses. The last leg of the trip was a radar run in to Quirpon, which got tricky in the narrow confines rounding entry island. Fortunately, lights illuminated the pier and a berth was available. A meal of spaghetti with tomato and moose sauce put us to bed with the wind still in the SE and surf pounding on the outer coast.

13 August, Wednesday: Quirpon to Lushes Bight Perry's alarm fired off at 4:30. The wind was down, and I no longer heard the surf on the eastern side of Quirpon. The weather looked okay at least for a start to the south. While passing the small island south of the pier, we nearly had an encounter with the bottom. This year the obstruction marker for the shoal there did not get installed by the Coast Guard, perhaps because of late ice-out. Using GPS navigation. Perry was steering the Pits between two shoals marked on the chart, but when I happened to glance over the side. I was horrified to see the bottom so close I could stand in it. Perhaps we were a few feet to far to the west! In any case, the bottom got no closer (the sounder read zero as we passed over) and we scraped by with maybe six inches under the keel. The shoal where the channel turns east at the southwest end of Quirpon was almost as shallow, and the obstruction rock here—also missing its marker buoy—was nearly out of water. We had happened to be transiting the harbor at the lowest of the monthly tides! Once out in the ocean a good swell was running, still driven by a SE wind of 10-15 knots, but south of St. Anthony conditions improved, and we ended up having a good 10-hour crossing to the Grey Islands, the Horse Islands, Cape St. John, and into Lushes Bight, where we found Perry’s “uncle”,

Jim Rice, on the pier and one of the local boats unloading a bumper catch of codfish from nets set at 300 fathoms. This vessel is part of the fisheries department's Sentinel Program, chartered to fish and sell a certain quota, provided they supply research data on the catch to the government. All signs are for a large spike in the codfish population, with many fish larger and more numerous than people have seen in their

Fig 4.100: Marie / and Alaina at the Colbourne hacienda in Lushes Bight, Newfoundland.

lifetimes. Louise, Jane, and the baby are out of town in Perry’s truck, visiting Jill in Corner Brook, so Perry’s home-coming was quiet: “Only the cat to talk to”—so the girls moved their gear to his mother’s, and I was left with a huge pile of dinner dishes to clean up on the boat. Alaina and Mariel had cooked a nice dinner during the final leg of the crossing, but an unexpected roll as Mariel was opening the oven door dumped the pan of roasted veggies on the oven floor. Nevertheless, we found them tasty. Throughout the day I had been reading George Whitely's Northern Seas—Hardy Sailors, an account of his circumnavigation of Newfoundland in a yacht, with descriptions of places he visited and tales of the many maritime disasters and miraculous recoveries, including his somewhat ignominious landing in a rubber raft on one of the Funk Islands, home of the extinct Great Auk, to photograph the murre and gannet colonies there. While attempting to scramble from the raft to the only possible landing site with a large swell running, George had his own collision with the shore when he was left hanging from the ledge by his fingertips until the next wave lifted him up onto the ledge! We're all glad to be back at the Lushes Bight wharf again, successfully completing another season of research and adventure. I called Lynne and found she had got me air tickets home from Deer Lake on the 19th, two days earlier than the original plan, so I can spend a day with Ben, Laska, and Larissa, who have been visiting from Seattle. Mariel and Alaina could not change their reservations and will leave on the 21st.

14 August, Thursday: Lushes Bight Wednesday's weather continued today: light wind and fog from the SE, but it was supposed to be a fairly good day compared to tomorrow, when a storm emerging from the Great Lakes is supposed to hit Newfoundland. We spent the morning clearing the topside, galley gear, and food from the boat, and removed the zodiac, which we cleaned at the wharf and rolled up for storage in the little shed Perry built years ago for our gear. Off and on during the day we checked in with the Colbourne crowd: Stephen, who has been renovating his house and offered to take me to Deer Lake next week; Melvin, who has been on vacation most of the summer from his ferry job and is building a cabin 12 kilometers east of the Pelly's Island road; and Dennis, who has also been on leave much of the summer “to improve his story-telling capacity” (my interpretation!). We caught up with Uncle Jim and Prudy Rice at their place when we borrowed their truck to empty the boat. He too has been at home most of the summer, officially retired and spending much of his time running about the bay in his sporty cruiser. Nan of course is hosting the girls and filled them in with the entire history of the Colbourne clan as told from the encyclopedia of pictures on her living room walls and trip photo albums. Perry’s house, however, remained unusually quiet with Louise gone. Jill, it seems, has been eyeing

Jane’s baby and asked Jane if she would have a baby for her! This is because “Jane is not working” and Jill “has a demanding night-shift job as a medical technician and does not have time for the nuisance of a pregnancy.”

Cleaning out the boat turns out to be more complicated than one would think. The zodiac and loose boat gear is not that complicated, but the galley is a challenge when you’ve had a peripatetic summer like this one, with people coming and going and periods of vacancy like we had at Florence's. This year we did not have a ‘galley supervisor' as we’ve had sometimes in the past. Usually one person takes on this task, sometimes inadvertently, and keeps the food organized. But this summer we bought more food than we needed because we had

Fig 4.101: Washing, drying, and field-cataloguing collections at Perry’s.

heard late ice kept the supply boats from Rigolet. This turned out to be false, and we kept on buying food or staying at Florence's, where she cooked and provisioned us for nearly two weeks. Then it happened that we had a quick return from Red Bay, in two days, and ate little on the way. So we ended up with lots of unused food and many multiple open boxes of spaghetti. Will, who thought Purity hard bread and sweet bread were the perfect snacks, left the ship after the first day underway and never opened the packages. As a result. Perry's cellar is now stocked with enough provisions to open a small grocery. Among our discoveries on the last day of the trip—precipitated by my discovery that Carnation milk was curdling in my coffee—was that we had a batch of canned milk that had stayed on board or in the shed and froze over the winter. Mariel figured out that the cans with pumpkin pies on the label had an expiry date of 2007! Who knows when we actually bought that milk!

In the end, we carried ten garbage bags full of produce, canned, and dry goods, spices, dishes, pots and pans and everything else under the sun off the boat and into Perry's basement, where a major reckoning was made. Otherwise, there was not much to report for the day except washing the Hart Chalet bones and doing a rough field catalog of the artifacts. Perry barbecued steaks and Mariel cooked up a fine baked codfish. I retired to the boat about 9:30 and read more of George Whitely’s stories of Newfoundland marine disasters.

15 August, Friday: Lushes Bight The rain and wind predicted for today did not arrive; instead a foggy and cool morning was followed by a warm, sunny afternoon. After a leisurely breakfast during which Perry explored Google Earth, snooping on Will Richard's house in Georgetown, Maine, my place in DC, and his brother Chris' place on Lake Simcoe, the girls and I got to work on the collections again. While the bones were drying we cleaned up the artifacts and photographed them, square-by-square, more or less in order of the catalog list. We made a few finds in the screen and fauna collection, but nothing as important as the Inuit ivory needlecase found several years ago in Christie Leece’s bone bag from the Hart Chalet House 2 entry test pit.

We managed to pack all the fauna into two plastic buckets and the artifacts in another, only half full—not a very big collection this year, compared with the last couple years of ceramics from Hare Harbor. Louise came home in the late afternoon with Jane, Wavy, and the baby. Returning to the boat after 9pm, I found Jim, Dennis, and their families returning boisterously from a day’s picnic outing to Boot Harbor, across the bay. I finished George Whitely’s book and turned in as a nice breeze picked up, blowing through the Pits’ window screens.

16 August, Saturday: Lushes Bight Another very fine day. Too bad we are having all this fine weather here in Newfoundland rather than digging the rest of House 1 or 2 at the Hart site! Our small crew and short season crimped our style a bit. I spent the morning catching up on recent email and discovered the Raghavan/Willerslev paper on Paleoeskimo origins has been formally accepted by Science, and that Richard Kortum’s and my book on Khotan Nuur rock art and archaeology has been approved for publication by Cambridge University Press. Unfortunately Kortum's and my NEH proposal to continue work at Khotan was turned down in a session in which only 6% of the proposals were funded. Too bad, but we will certainly have much work to do to prepare the Cambridge book this year. More good news came from Aaron Putnam’s group doing the glacial geology

of Tien Shen and Khotan Nuur; they have some promising ideas on how to date rock varnish! This could be a major break-through. Khotan Nuur's rock art and varnish are among the finest in the world for this experimental work and have the benefit of such innovative senior scientists as Columbia's Wallace Broeker.

After lunch, Perry, Louise, Alaina, and I went exploring the nearby shores with the speedboat. One target was the gooseberry patch in the cove southwest of the ferry landing where a man spent much of his life more or less imprisoned in a small cabin by his mother. The glint of large blue mussels in the cove on the island west of Lushes Bight lured us into becoming ‘pearl divers’ (even though the water was only waist deep). We collected a large pail as we floundered about, half-diving, half groping, while Perry took incriminating pictures and Louise was splitting a gut at the sight of such well-educated people stupidly collecting mussels in ‘cold’ water (it was

actually quite pleasant). From there we visited the next cove to the west where we had picnicked and waterskied several years ago. This cove is a boulder beach thrown up between two connected islands with many prehistoric cache pits and a few larger, double-lobed pit structures that must be houses. Probably a spring seal hunting camp. The SE comer of the beach, which is otherwise completely barren and boulder, has a blackberry patch with eroding soil containing a profusion of small flint flakes. We found a Dorset-looking biface and a probable microblade, and the variety of cherts represented (including something reminiscent of Ramah chert) is surprising and probably comes from the quarries we visited earlier on the chert-bearing island near North China Head. I had earlier reported this to Priscilla Renouf and the Newfoundland authorities. Dinner was a veritable seafood feast: our huge mussels (many with small pearls), codfish, cod tongues, and cod ‘britches’ - the roe that comes in two sacks joined at the ‘waist’ like a pair of pants. Prudy and Nan joined us for this lively dinner in which Nan told us how she had out-classed a bunch of near-drunk men by polishing off one of the men's glasses of liquor, telling them off for their boozy, dominant ways and then stalking out. The evening ended with some serious baby-gazing when Jane arrived with her beautiful daughter, who has Perry wrapped around her tiny fingers. Being Saturday, this was also a night of‘shed’ entertainment at Barbara and Maurice’s place.

17 August, Sunday: Lushes Bight My last day in Newfoundland, and it was misty and overcast most of the day. I ventured into email in the morning until 1 lam, and then helped Perry load the Pits’ dry dock trusses on the truck. They will be driven to Triton while we take the boat around through Long Island channel to Triton, where we'll have her hauled and stored for the winter at the Marine Center, now run by Jerry Jones and his Diamond Drill operation. Dennis and Andy were putting the finishing touches on a new sewer line and septic tank outside Dennis’ house, using a rented back-hoe. Andy was quite proficient at the controls. After lunch, I packed and removed my stuff from the boat finding Will’s missing Buck knife. It being Sunday, there was not much action on the wharf. Most of the fishing has been completed for the summer, and everyone is wondering what will happen with the cod fishery now that there seem to be so many large fish, in both deep and shallow water, here and along the south coast. Will regs be changed? And how much? Will the fisheries officials be able to restrain the demands of the fishermen and boat owners? Most people here think that the fish would be quickly over-harvested if the fishery is opened to a wide sector of the industry. The slow day crept on through the afternoon with clean-up chores, laundry, and sorting stored food. For dinner. Perry and Louise fixed a big meal of barbecued ribs, chicken, baked potatoes, and Nan cooked a dessert of blueberry ‘pudding’ with custard sauce for Jane, Lee, their newborn daughter Cassie (only a couple months old). Grandma Nan. Perry, Louise, Alaina. Mariel, and me. Rain and mist persisted into the evening, nixing plans for a marshmallow roast.

18 August, Monday: Lushes Bight to Deer Lake My last night on the boat was suitably quiet until I sensed our crew approaching on the dock bearing coffee and pancakes. We soon were underway for Triton through Long Island Run, well before anyone else was stirring. The Pits was pretty much a hollow shell at this point— nothing but engine, hull, and fixed gear—as everything else had been stripped and stored ashore. The sunrise came red and soon disappeared as dark clouds moved in from the SE; the barometer was falling, and several days of stormy weather were about to set in. We had arrived back at home early, but without much time to spare, considering my departure with Lynne for Mongolia from Boston on the 26th. We arrived at Triton and tied up

in the ‘pound' awaiting the crane operator. Louise had driven over in the truck with the trusses, and while we waited for the lift operator to show up, we delivered three plastic buckets of bones and artifacts to Budgell's, who were to arrange their shipment to Anja Herzog in Quebec. The boat came out of the water in good shape, with almost no algae and only very small barnacles. No dings or marks from piers or the near miss of the shoal we nearly touched in Quirpon Harbor. Perry did notice that the shaft had a bit of extra play when the prop was turned back and forth—perhaps some looseness in the spline coupling or engine coupling. That needs checking next year. We spoke also of replacing the deck (underlying plywood and fiberglass), refurbishing the

hydraulic lines and valves on the winch and steering gear (a winch fitting had burst in Rigolet), installing a new searchlight, buying a new auxiliary battery, re-doing the life raft, and having the engine checked by an expert. After blocking and fixing the trusses, I said goodbye to Perry and the girls, who then left in the speedboat for Lushes Bight, through the inner passage with its mussel farms. The weather was closing down, and a light rain begun. Louise and I drove back to Long Island and caught the 10:30 ferry. Stephen Colbourne was waiting on the Long Island side and I transferred my gear into his car and we ferried back to Pilley's Island again. En route to Deer Lake we stopped at his and Dennis’ cabins and tracked down the elusive Maritime Archaic (?) artifacts Wesley Caravan had found at Miles Cove. They were supposed to have been on display at the Pilley’s Island town library, but we learned that they have been retrieved by Wesley, and only a couple are still on display in the small museum (always locked when we have passed) south of town. I suspect Wesley may have a Maritime Archaic graveyard on his property and that these finds may just be from one grave. After lunch at Eddy’s Restaurant, we drove on to Deer Lake in the rain. There Stephen re-located the huge wall clock—nearly two feet I diameter—he had seen earlier and wanted for his house renovation. We said goodbyes and he went on to Corner Brook to settle some financial matters. He's been on medical leave from his ferry job in Burgeo. We had a long talk—the first in years! I had a room for the night at the Driftwood Inn, where we used to stay when flying out of Deer Lake before we started driving up and back with Will Richard. After a dinner of fish and chips at Jungle Jim's, I was ready for a mammoth ‘great circle’ series of plane flights leaving at 6am for Toronto, New York, Boston, and eventually Lebanon, N.H.—hopefully with baggage (including Peny’s bakeapples) intact and in time to spend a day with my son, Ben. and granddaughters, Laska and Larissa, before they leave for Seattle. Ben’s been making the rounds of colleges with Laska, a senior this year, interested in colleges with theater and pre-med.

Project Summary

The Labrador Inuit migration project completed a successful season of surveys on the Central Labrador coast and excavations at the 16-17th C. Hart Chalet Inuit site in Brador, in the northeastern Gulf of St. Lawrence. The field team included W. Fitzhugh (PI), Theodore Timreck (videographer) and his wife. Sandra (both present only for the Brador project), Alaina Harmon (zoological assistant), Mariel Kennedy (Notre Dame University field intern), and Perry Colbourne (boat captain). Field activities took place between 11 July and 18 August. The field team left northern Newfoundland and visited the L'Anse aux Meadows Viking site before transiting the southern Labrador coast to Rigolet. in Hamilton Inlet. There we were joined by a Nunatsiavut (Inuit) archaeological team composed of Jamie Brake and Michelle Davies. Surveys were conducted in the previously unexplored Backway and the Narrows region for a week, searching for prehistoric and historic sites. The most important finds were two new Labrador Inuit winter village sites, one outside the Rigolet Narrows and a second near Cape North, east of Cartwright. The second half of the project continued previous studies at the Hart Chalet Inuit winter village site in Brador, where we excavated portions of two dwellings and recovered samples of artifacts, faunal remains (including micro-fauna samples), and structural data on houses. During our work in Brador, we visited a Basque try-works at Five Leagues near Middle Bay, 20 km west of Brador, and two Maritime Archaic burial mound sites excavated by Rene Levesque and Clifford Hart in the late 1970s. The most important strategic development of the summer project was establishment of a strong working relationship with the Nunatsiavut government's archaeology and heritage program. The most important scientific results of the Rigolet survey were the new Inuit village sites and the faunal collections from the Hart site which will provide a basis for testing the Inuit migration and climate-harp seal models.

Funds expended included $30K for Pitsiulak upkeep and Colbourne salary (Burch fund) and $25,000 for air travel, supplies, fuel, equipment, and other expenses.

The Rigolet Survey Our last archaeological research in Hamilton Inlet took place in 1973, when we completed excavations at the Rattlers Bight Maritime Archaic living site and cemetery. In 1974-75 Richard Jordan and Susan Kaplan excavated Labrador Inuit sites at Eskimo Island and tested sites at Snooks Cove. Since then, a few surveys have been conducted in parts of the southern shore of Groswater Bay, and Lisa Rankin and students from Memorial University excavated Inuit winter sites in Snooks Cove and at Double Mer Point. The absence of any archaeological studies in Double Mer prompted this summer’s work because several families living in Rigolet used to have family homes in Double Mer and were interested in learning more about this region and having some of the old homesteads and archaeological sites documented.

Time did not allow a complete survey of Double Mer; instead we concentrated on several locales that seemed promising for locating prehistoric and early historic sites. At Stag Head Cove we found the remains of an old cobble hearth on the first terrace directly behind the cabin on the east shore at the mouth of the brook.

No cultural affiliation could be determined from the small test pit excavated, which produced charcoal but no artifacts. On the west side of a brook a few hundred meters from the river mouth we visited a blown out terrace on the north side of a side brook where Jamie Brake had found flaking debris in 2013. Here we found the remains of several hearth features accompanied by flakes of Ramah chert, small bits of burned bone, and the comer-notched base of a Point Revenge spear point similar to one excavated at the Henry Blake site in Northwest River dated ca. 1150 A.D. Some in situ deposit probably exists here, making excavation a possibility, although the site is probably a small transient camp with only itinerant occupation.

A survey by speedboat up Main River at the northwest corner of Double Mer as far as the first rapids produced no significant archaeological results. The banks of the river are constantly eroding and few desirable site locations exist. Hiking into the country south of the rapid, we found open terraces several hundred feet high, but no archaeological remains. At the river mouth, the shore several hundred meters north of the now-abandoned fish camp produced a possible hearth feature with scraps of burned bone, but no other finds. The low terraces and former river banks to the west might have relatively recent sites dating to periods when these features were active river shorelines, but we did not have time to search these areas. We did survey the first point south of the Main River mouth and found some old caribou bone (remains of a butchered caribou), but no artifacts.

At Burnt Head on the raised terraces between Main River and Partridge Point we surveyed a section of shoreline west of a small brook, but found no site locales. Partridge Point itself is clearly an important camp and habitation area. Here we found the remains of tent camps at the point and a former cabin site in a clearing several hundred meters east on the protected south side of the point. In addition to the cabin site, containing the remains of an iron stove and many other artifacts and features, we found more caribou bones and historic era potsherds in the landwash. At Ship Harbor we found a number of stone features on the tops of the two promontories but failed to locate archaeological remains.

Our surveys in the inner reaches of the Narrows and nearby shores of Lake Melville and the Backway re-located sites that Richard Jordan had found. We checked Jackie's Island where the eastern channel of the Narrows meets the Backway, the location. A stray chipped point once had been found here, and we checked the larger island to its east. This island deserves more attention than we had time for, as it has nice tundra-covered raised beaches. On the adjacent mainland point we re-located the disturbed Inuit grave on a high boulder beach where Richard Jordan had found artifacts. Further west, a cove with exposed boulder beaches one kilometer west of Hanniuk had several clearly defined tent rings a meter or so higher than the modern high tide line. No surface finds were located, but the structures did not have the usual Inuit features and may be Innu, who are known to have camped here, as reported by Inuit elders. At Hanniuk, a traditional Inuit settlement once occupied by Joe Palliser, we found stone features in on the grassy point, remains of former cabins, and 19/20th century middens along the shore to the west. This area could be a prime target for future research. Surveys along the south shore around Carrington Island produced possible Inuit graves cairns and tent ring features but no evidence of prehistoric

occupation.

The North entrance of Double Mer produced evidence of old Inuit sites that date back to the 19th century, and perhaps earlier. The most promising is Palliser Point, an excellent fishing and seal hunting location, were an old midden west of the modern cabin produced clay pipe fragments, ceramics, and a metal spoon handle. The most important site found during our survey was on the mainland inside Broomfield Island, at the southeast entry of the Narrows. Here sod wall structures with heavy grass cover appear to be the remains of a 2- or 3-house Inuit 19th century village dating to the time just before people began to reside permanently in Rigolet. After leaving Rigolet we found a second sod house on the eastern shore of Curlew Bay, east of Cartwright and west of Cape North.

Research in Brador, Quebec Our second objective was to continue excavations begun in 2013 at the Hart Chalet Inuit village east of the Brador River. The three sod houses at this site had been tested in earlier years, and last year we excavated a 1x8 m trench through the middle of House 1 from the entrance tunnel to the rear (North) wall. The 2014 work expanded the 2013 north-south trench into a 2 x 8 m feature and opened a lateral 2 x 10 m trench across the inside of the front wall from the east to the west wall and into the midden west of the wall. The expanded N-S trench produced little information or artifacts but revealed that the floor had been paved with wood and a few bricks rather than with rock slabs. A sleeping bench is present at the rear (north) part of the house but is not well-defined architecturally. The layered turf walls were clearly shown in the stratigraphy of the east wall. A large mass of grey stoneware sherds from a single vessel were found on the floor east of the door. West of the entry an artifact cache was found at the base of the western bench platform; among the fines were iron bar stock, an iron arrowhead, an iron saw blade fragment, a small sheet of copper, a lead-like mineral mass, and fragments of glass and tile. On the western bench we found iron spear foreshafts, caribou skull fragments, a few glass beads, and more grey stoneware. The midden outside the west wall produced nails, large samples of caribou bone and some well-preserved fish and shell remains. Excavation of a 2x2 rn square at the entrance of House 2 produced large amount of caribou food bone, soapstone vessel fragments, stoneware, a whalebone sled runner, and a whalebone harpoon or lance foreshaft. This entryway was nicely paved with closely-fitting flat stone slabs. While we now have a better picture of house architecture and artifact assemblages from the Hart Chalet, our three-person excavation team was not large enough to completely open up House 1 or do more than sample its bone-rich middens.

Casual surveys on the Barrens east of Brador revealed the early Maritime Archaic mounds Rene Levesque excavated in the late 1960s. These structures are among the oldest archaeological sites known in eastern Quebec and probably date to the same period as the L'Anse Amour mound in Forteau, Labrador. Other similar features may still exist in the vicinity. On a walking tour in the old village area known as Five Leagues, between Middle Bay and St. Paul River, we found traces of a Basque oven and old Indian sites on raised beaches. More archaeological surveys should be done in this area, for its sheltered coves provide some of the region's finest harbors for small boats.

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0W 2E

4E 6E

14N

Ground Elevations below datum Datum = 78 cm above

ground surface House 1

12N

10N

8N

6N

4N

2N

<?• Mart Chalet (EjE

Excavation E|nit M e5cn Ptions

This section presents summaries of each of the units excavated at the Hart Chalet land site.

House 1

This year we expanded work at House 1 by opening up the eastern half of the units in the 1 x 8 m trench, creating a 2 x 6 m cross-trench from inside the HI door to the rear wall (we did not expand the 1 x 2 m unit in the entry passage). We established the SW corner of last year’s Unit D as the site datum point and gridded

House 1 in two-meter squares.

Fig 6.00: Hart Chalet (EiBh-47) House 1 looking through entry to rear wall , view north.
6o
Grey Sand V stenle Sand F * I Inner House Fill Brown Peat

4N 6E We excavated a 2 x 0.5 m trench through the east wall of House 1 following the 4N line to check the stratigraphy of the house wall and determine the inner edge of the east sleeping platform or house floor. Alternating bands of grey sand and dark charcoal-stained sand indicated layers of wall construction. At the bottom of the profile a humus level marked the original old ground surface on which the wall had been built.

N

t

wall trench excavation

Hart Chalet 4N6EH1 August 6, 2014

Fig 6.04: Iron Artifacts from 4N6E.

Fig 6.05: 4N6E extension. 4N4E and 4N6E extention, view NE.

Hart Chalet
4N5E North Profile August 11,2014

North Profile

4N4E

4N5E

4N5.5E

cm below level line 40

(-147cm BD)

40cm

149cm BD

4N5E West End

Table caption

Grey Sand with Cultural Materials

0 Grey Sand

©

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, ^6 ,

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■

□

4N5E East End

End

Trench

Fig 6.06: profile of North Wall of 4N6E.

Fig 6.07: Profile of North wall of 4N6E.

Fig 6.08: 4N6E trench through East wall of HE

6^r

4N4E This unit lies east of the HI entry; its south edge marks the south wall of the house foundation, and its northern portion lies inside the house. The unit began producing animal bone as soon as Mariel got below the cracker berry root mass that solidified the surface of the wall. Most of this upper wall deposit contained caribou and other bones dumped on top of the outer wall or roof. As the excavation reached the level of the house floor, ca. 155-170 cm below datum, a large number of grey stoneware sherds were found, mostly in the western half of the unit. These pieces followed a dark band in the soil we had thought was a sterile old ground surface, but apparently it was part of the house interior, probably a portion of a side bench. The entire base and much of the sides of a cylindrical vessel could be assembled, and more pieces, probably, are in the square to the north, which we did not have time to excavate. Brick fragments were on the central house floor in the NW corner of the unit at 168 cm below datum. A turquoise color glass bead, a piece of worked antler, and many nails were also found on the floor level between 155 to 160 cm BD. Few artifacts were found in the eastern half of the unit which included the corner portion of the side bench.

Hart Chalet
4N4EH1 August 3, 2014
Om 0.5m 1m

Brick fragments on floor

Fig 6.10: 4N4E nails and iron.

Fig 6.11: 4N4E iron fool handle.

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Fig 6.12a: 4N4E ceramics.

Fig 6.12b: 4N4E ceramic fits.

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Fig 6.13: 4N4E Ceramic fits

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8N2E This 2 x 1 m unit inside the rear wall of House 1 produced a few nails and showed complicated stratigraphy owing to the lack of clear definition of the rear sleeping platform (there was no floor slab pavement and slabs were not present on the platform or used as platform retainer stones) and the slumping of the rear wall. The stratigraphy in the southern half of the unit (the house floor) was humus over grey sand, over peat over dark charcoal-stained cultural level, over sterile gravel. The northern half was part of the sleeping bench and showed humus over a mixed grey sand layer (slumped wall) with occasional nails over sterile sand. As requested by Florence Hart, we tried not to overly disturb the roots of the larches sheltering her cottage, but leaving the many crisscrossing roots make digging difficult. At the bottom of the cultural deposit, Alaina found a green glass goblet fragment, but there were also shreds of plastic, indicating some former disturbance of the soil. Other than a glass fragment, the only finds were a few small nails. The floor level in the southern part of the unit was 162 cm below datum; on the raised bench at the northern end the cultural level was at 147 cm.

6N 2E Mariel, Alaina, and I excavated the eastern half of 6N2E, finding a deposit only 10-15 cm deep with humus overlying a charcoal-stained sandy soil, and that lying on sterile gravelly marine-deposited sand. The floor level in the eastern part of this square was paved with broken brick fragments. Its northern portion had a cluster of small cobbles on the floor but no clear indication of a hearth. In the middle of the unit, we found a small partially rotten plank and a piece of the same wood set vertically into the ground with a pointed end—a stake of some sort. These finds and the absence of a stone slabs suggests that the house floor had been constructed with wood planks that were secured in place by wooden stakes. A few nails and the top of a green glass bottle were the only artifact finds other than a flake of Ramah chert, intrusive from a previous site occupation.

Fig 6.14: View NW

Fig 6.15: View NW.

Hart Chalet

6N2E/8N2E HI August 3, 2014

Table caption

6N2E

(r-155)

Ooi O.Sm

¥

1

wood stake vertical

o wood plank

3.5cm x 1cm thick in black soil -165cm

3 4

-172

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2

8N2E

Fig 6.16: 6N2E and 8N2E units in H2.

Fig 6.1 7 : 4N2 W unit in HI interior, view N.

HH9 vlv H

Fig 6.18: 6N 2E , 8N2E artifacts, iron nails

and objects.

4N 2E The southern part of the eastern half of 4N2E included the inside portion of the house's front wall, east of the entryway; its northern quadrant was part of the house floor (ca. 175 cm below datum) and like 6N 2E had numerous broken brick fragments. A flat slab lay on the floor in the balk between this unit and 6N2E. The soil profile was similar to 6N2E: the wall section displayed grey sand under a tough, rooty humus zone. A few rocks were incorporated in the wall, whose top was about 50 cm above the outside ground level. No artifacts other than brick fragments and nails were found in this unit.

t

Hart Chalet

4N2EH1 August 3 , 2014

0m 0.5m lm

Northern part had a thin cover of peat, lying on brown charcoal - stained sand with brick fragments all highly fragmented on what seems to be the floor. No tile fragments.

Southern half of square is the house wall built of grey sand and some rocks. Two large rocks appear to have fallen into present position from roof or the wall. Grey sand probably excavated from house pit. No artifacts or nails or charcoal in grey sand. Wall is made mostly of sand.

Fig 6.19: 4N2E unit.

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Fzg 6.20 4N2E Artifacts.

4N OW Soon after beginning this unit I found a cluster of artifacts on the floor of the unit's NE quadrant, including part of a saw blade, a stemmed iron arrow point, pieces of bottle glass, a rectangular cross-sectioned iron bar, nails, a lump of a blue-green mineral like rock, and a thin sheet of copper (later lost). I wonder if the Inuit were prospecting for minerals of interest to European traders? Caribou bones were present and a piece of w halebone was found in the house wall along the southern edge of the unit. More bottle glass was found on the floor as well as a flat piece of green glass with retouch along one edge, indicating its use as a knife or scraper. The eastern side of the unit was the house floor and had a partial ring of small cobble rocks. A 20cm long piece of whalebone lay on the floor, which consisted of a layer of charcoal-stained black earth consistently 165-170 cm below datum and pieces of a broken brick. It is not clear whether the rocks were actually a hearth since they were not charcoal-stained or fire-cracked. The western half of the square is twenty to thirty centimeters higher than the floor (ca. 155 cm below datum) and may be part of a sleeping bench. This bench area has a very thin ‘floor'’ deposit and contained with few artifacts, all nails. There is no retaining wall along the front of the bench, which may have been retained by a log or plank. A large larch root running along the edge of the bench may have grown through the rotting wood bench retainer. Because we did not excavate into the house wall it was difficult to mark the junction between the bench and the house wall, which follows the southern edge of the unit.

View East.

Hart Chalet

4N0WH1 August 4 , 2014

Fig 6.24: Map of4N0W.

Fig 5.25: 4NOW view’ north.

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Fig 6.27 artifacts from 4N0W.

4N 2 W This unit incorporated the S'W internal corner of House 1 and seems to have been an extension of the raised bench found in the western half of 4N OE. The eastern portion of the unit lay at ca. 147 BD while the western portion, lying just inside the west wall of the house was at 130-134 cm BD. The eastern portion contained only nails while the western portion produced nails and a variety of other artifacts, including a mediumsize turquoise blue glass bead, a small rectangular copper pendant with a tiny pierced suspension hole (a clothing decoration), an iron spear point, an iron foreshaft, an iron blade fragment, lead sheet, pieces of earthenware and stoneware, glass fragments, butchered caribou bones, and a patch ot thin hard skin-like material pierced with a nail that may have been part of the roof covering. Part of a caribou skull was found in the southern part of the unit, as well as the base of a finely-flaked square-based Groswater biface (ca. 2500 B.P.) which must have arrived in the sods used to build the house wall. Much of this material probably had been incorporated in a midden dumped on the outside of the house wall. A similar concentration of finds came from test pits in 4N 4W excavated in previous years. Flakes of Ramah chert and quartz crystal were also recovered, representing preInuit occupations. The most unusual find from 4N 2W was a nest of baby mice.

Hart Chalet

4N2WH1 August 5, 2014

Om 0.5m 1m

Hart Chalet

4N2W North Profile

1 13cm BD August 1 1,2014

8 i

Fig 6.31 View of 4N2W.

Fig 6.32: Artifacts from 4N2W.

Fig 6.33:Groswater chert biface, lead and iron fragments, glass sherd, blue bead from 4N2W. glass sherd, and blue bead from 4N2W.

Fig 6.35:Artifacts from 4N2W.

Fig 6.34: Iron knife and spear shaft from 4N2W.

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4N 4W This unit was positioned on the outside of the House 1 west wall where we excavated two test pits in previous years and found the location to be a rich midden. The earlier test pits were in the NW quadrant and their spatial boundaries were readily apparent by the homogeneous grey soil. Excavation of the NW quadrant produced a large quantity of food bone—mostly caribou and some seal, but also a possible wolf or dog jaw, and many other mid- and small-sized mammals. Much of the deposit was mixed with mussel shell which had helped preserve the food bone, including a fair amount of fish remains. Nails were quite common, and I also found the same type of tin or copper pendant Alaina found in 4N 2W. Other finds included a trigger-shaped piece of iron (seems not a fishhook or a gun trigger), a sliver of cut copper, small pieces of cut whalebone, parts of a Normandy stoneware vessel, nails, an iron tool tang or shank, a whalebone knife handle, a piece of goblet glass, worked whalebone, and a blue glass bead; no earthenware, faience, day pipe fragments, or musket balls, and very few tiles were present. Finds were distributed throughout the midden matrix from 127 to 158 cm below datum and most came from the eastern and western sides of the unit, with few finds in the center. The shell parts of the midden were screened and produced many small bone fragments (fish and small mammal) and a round disc-shaped metal piece.

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North is to the left

Hart Chalet

4N4WH1 Augusts 2014

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Fig 6.37: 4N4W unit NE quadrant excavated previously.

Fig 6.39: Artifacts from 4N4W.

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House 2

The grid for House 1 was extended to include House 2 and its entry passage. A 1 x 1 m pit in the center of the house 2 interior excavated by Clifford Hart remains unfilled. Florence Hart recalls that Clifford recovered some artifacts from this pit. The interior and walls of House 2 are heavily grown over with mature spruce trees.

Fig 6.40: House 2 entrance tunnel, view North.

8N 8\Y This 2x2 m unit was located at the outer end of the House 2 entry passage and was excavated to see how the entry was structured and what it might contain. The results were most uninteresting, with no slab pavements and only a few bones, nails, a blue glass bead, a piece of grey stoneware, and a shard of glass. Although the ground surface here seemed somewhat depressed and this depression could be followed in the surface sod north, appearing as the outer end of the House 2 entry passage, we found no pavement slabs or evidence of passage wall retainers. Test pits south of this unit showed a relatively thin bone midden.

8N9W

North Wall

Hart Chalet

8N8W Profiles

Om 0.25m 0.5m

f

- =2.5cm

8N8W

-87 below datum

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Orange Sand

Black Earth

| Rock

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Inner House Fill

|" ^ Brown Peat

Fig 6.41: Profiles for 8N8W.

Hart Chalet

8N8WH1

August 9 , 2014

Fig 6.42: 8N9W excavation map.

Fig 6.44: Artifacts from 8N8W.

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14N 8W In 2013 we excavated a unit in the middle of the House 2 entrance passage, roughly located at 12N 8W, finding an entry passage floor paved with rock slabs and a large piece of whalebone. The latter may have been part of a roof support. This summer we opened up a 2 x 2 m unit two meters to the north in what seemed like the House 2 inner door. Due to lack of time, only the SW, SE, and NE quads could be completed. This unit had rock piles visible along its east and west margins which are probably the remains of doorway support piles. Some of these rocks had collapsed into the doorway and had to be removed during excavation. Food bone— mostly caribou—was found in a continuous midden deposit, ca. 25 cm thick, from just under the sod to the paved slab floor at the bottom of the deposit, ca. 90 cm below site datum. A thin soapstone potsherd resembling a Dorset rather than a Neoeskimo vessel was found in the midden fill above the slab floor at -72.

In the eastern pile I found nails and small pieces of a burned and broken up soapstone pot in and just outside the square’s east wall. These pieces were the usual thickness (ca. 1.75 cm) for Labrador limit pots; the small thin piece described above was less than 1 cm. thick and highly polished like a Dorset soapstone sherd. Several of the rocks piled on the east side of the doorway had fallen onto the house pavement slabs. The midden deposit was consistent from top to bottom. Below a tough turf of cracker berries a grey sandy soil with pockets of peat and charcoal-stained soil packed with bones continued right down to either floor slabs or hard-packed charcoal-stained peat; below the floor slabs or peat floor was sterile grey beach sand. Besides bones (mostly caribou), flakes of tan or greybrown quartzite were present, a relic of an earlier prehistoric Indian occupation. Nails were found from top to bottom, and bone preservation was generally poor, especially in the upper and lower zones. Many were too friable to extract from the hard-packed peat-sand soil and will be difficult to identify, but are mostly caribou. Artifacts were also spread evenly throughout the cultural zone, but the better preserved whalebone pieces all came from the lower zone if not actually on the pavement. Thin grey/grey and grey outside/brown inside stoneware sherds (both types were present) were found just under the turf, and another came from the floor level. Whalebone artifacts included a piece of a sled runner broken across a lashing hole; a mid-section fragment of a whalebone foreshaft with a scarf joint; and a large piece of whalebone of unknown function worked flat on one side with a flange or ridge protruding from one edge of the opposite side. Charcoal was scarce in the cultural level, but some of the rocks had been cracked in a fire. Still, we found no evidence of a wood fireplace or residue from an oil lamp, and no glass beads, earthenware, or clay pipes; but there were a few pieces of roof tile on the pavement floor, which is well constructed, with spaces between several large slabs fitted with smaller ones. This pavement does not extend into the NE comer, where the interior house floor seems to have been peat or had a wood covering. A large wood beam on the floor level in the SW quadrant was either a fallen entry passage roof beam or lined the western floor of the entry tunnel. Nails were often found on or just above the floor. The Inuit who lived in this house seems to have had little direct contact with Europeans, judging from the limited inventory of European artifacts.

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During late July and August, 2014, The Labrador Inuit migration project completed a successful survey of the Rigolet region of the Central Labrador coast and conducted excavations at the 16-17th C. Hart Chalet Inuit site (EiBh-47) in Brador, in the northeastern Gulf of St. Lawrence. The field team included W. Fitzhugh (PI), Theodore Timreck (videographer) and his wife, Sandra (both present only for the Brador project), Alaina Harmon (zoological assistant), Mariel Kennedy (Notre Dame University field intern), and Perry Colbourne (boat captain). Field activities took place between 11 July and 18 August. The field team left Long Island in northern Newfoundland and visited the L'Anse aux Meadows Viking site before transiting the southern Labrador coast to Rigolet, in Hamilton Inlet. There we were joined by a Nunatsiavut (Inuit) archaeological team composed of Jamie Brake and Michelle Davies. Surveys were conducted in previously unexplored areas of the Backway and the Narrows region for a week, searching for prehistoric and historic sites. The most important finds were two new Labrador Inuit winter village sites, one outside the Rigolet Narrows and a second in Curlew Bay near Cape North, east of Cartwright. The second half of the project continued previous studies at the Hart Chalet Inuit winter village site in Brador, where we excavated portions of two dwellings and recovered samples of artifacts, faunal remains (including micro-fauna samples), and structural data on houses. During our work in Brador, we visited a Basque try-works at Five Leagues near Middle Bay, 20 km west of Brador, and two Maritime Archaic burial mound sites excavated by Rene Levesque and Clifford Hart in the late 1970s. An important component of the summer project was establishment of a strong working relationship with the Nunatsiavut government's archaeology and heritage program. The most important scientific results were the discovery of a new Inuit village site near Rigolet and the faunal collections obtained from the Hart site in Brador which will provide a basis for testing the Inuit migration and climate-harp seal models.

Fig 7.1: Stag Head Brook site. View NW.

The RigoletSurvey Our last archaeological research in Hamilton Inlet took place in 1973, when we com

pleted excavations at the Rattlers Bight Maritime Archaic living site and cemetery. In 1974-75 Richard Jordan and Susan Kaplan excavated Labrador Inuit sites at Eskimo Island and tested sites at Snooks Cove. Since then, a few surveys have been conducted in parts of the southern shore of Groswater Bay, and Lisa Rankin and students from Memorial University excavated Inuit winter sites in Snooks Cove and at Double Mer Point. The absence of any archaeological studies in Double Mer prompted this summer's work because several families living in Rigolet used to have family homes in Double Mer and were interested in learning more about this region and having some of the old homesteads and archaeological sites documented. The following summary does not include specifics of the archaeological work (e.g. site descriptions, GPS locations, finds, etc.) since these technical aspects were being recorded by the Nunatsiavut team, Jamie Brake and Michelle Davies.

Time did not allow a complete survey of Double Mer; instead we concentrated on several locales that seemed promising for locating prehistoric and early historic sites. At Stag Head Cove we found the remains of an old cobble hearth on the first terrace directly behind the cabin on the east shore at the mouth of the brook. No cultural affiliation could be determined from the small test pit excavated, which produced charcoal but no artifacts. On the west side of a brook a few hundred meters from the river mouth we visited a terrace with scattered blowouts on the north side of a side brook where Jamie Brake had found flaking debris in 2013. Here we found the remains of several hearth features accompanied by flakes of Ramah chert, small bits of burned bone, and the corner-notched base of a Point Revenge spear point similar to one excavated at the Henry Blake site in Northwest River dated ca. 1150 A.D. Some in situ deposit probably exists here, making future excavation a possibility, although the site is probably a small transient camp with limited archaeological resources.

A survey by speedboat up Main River at the northwest corner of Double Mer as far as the first rapids produced no significant archaeological results. The banks of the river are constantly eroding and few desirable site locations exist. Hiking into the country south of the first rapid we found open terraces several hundred feet high, but no archaeological remains. At the river mouth, the shore several hundred meters north of an abandoned fish camp produced a possible hearth feature with scraps of burned bone, but no other finds. The low terraces and former river banks to the west might have relatively recent sites dating to periods when these features were active river shorelines, but we did not have time to search these areas. We did survey the first point south of the Main River mouth and found some recent caribou bones (remains of a butchered caribou), but no artifacts or settlement areas.

At Burnt Head on the raised terraces between Main River and Partridge Point we surveyed a section of shoreline west of a small brook, but found no site locales. Partridge Point itself is clearly an important camp and habitation area that has been occupied sporadically for at least the past one hundred years. Here we found the remains of two tent camps at the point and a former cabin site in a clearing several hundred meters east on the protected south side of the point. In addition to the cabin site, containing the remains of an iron stove and many surface artifacts and features, we found caribou bones and historic era potsherds in the shore land-wash. At Ship Harbor on the Double Mer south coast we found a number of stone features on the tops of the two promontories but failed to locate archaeological remains.

Our surveys in the inner reaches of the Narrows and nearby shores of Lake Melville and the Backway re-located sites that Richard Jordan visited in the 1970s. We checked Jackie's Island where the eastern channel of the Narrows meets the Backway, the location where a stray chipped point had been found, and we checked the larger island to its east. This island deserves more attention than we had time for, as it has nice tundra-covered raised beaches and must have had periodic occupations by Inuit and likely also by Innu and their ancestors. On the adjacent mainland point we re-located the disturbed Inuit grave on a high boulder beach where Richard Jordan had found artifacts suggesting it had been the grave of an Inuit woman. Further east, a cove with exposed boulder beaches one kilometer west of Hanniuk had several clearly defined tent rings a meter or so higher than the modem high tide line. No surface finds were located, but the structures did not have the usual Inuit features and

1 OO

may be Innu, who are known to have camped here or nearby, as reported in oral history by Inuit elders living at Hanniuk. At Hanniuk, a traditional Inuit settlement once occupied by Joe Palliser, we found stone features in on the grassy point, remains of former cabins behind the existing cabin, and midden materials dating to the 19/20th along the shore to the west. This area could be a prime target for future research. Surveys along the south shore around Carrington Island produced possible Inuit grave cairns and tent ring features but no evidence of prehistoric occupation.

The north entrance of Double Mer produced evidence of old Inuit sites that date back to the 19th century, and perhaps earlier. The most promising location is Palliser Point, an excellent fishing and seal hunting spot, were an old midden about 20 meters west of the modern cabin produced clay pipe fragments, ceramics, and a metal spoon handle. The most important site found during our survey was on the mainland inside Broomfield Island, at the southeast entry of the Narrows. Here sod wall structures with heavy grass cover appear to be the remains of a 2- or 3-house 19th C. Inuit village dating to the time just before people began to reside permanently in Rigolet. After leaving Rigolet we found a second sod house on the eastern shore of Curlew Bay, east of Cartwright and west of Cape North.

Hart Chalet Site, Bra dor, Quebec Our

second objective was to continue excavations begun in 2013 at the Hart Chalet Inuit village site (EiBh-47) east of the Brador River. The three sod houses at this site had been tested in earlier years, and last year we excavated a 1x8 m trench through the middle of House 1 from the outside of the entrance tunnel to the rear (north) wall of the house. 2014 work expanded the 2013 north-south trench into a 2 x 8 m feature and opened a lateral 2 x 10 m trench inside of the front wall from the east to the west wall and into the midden west of the wall.

The expanded N-S trench produced little information or artifacts but revealed that the floor had been paved with wood planks and shattered bricks rather than with rock slabs. A sleeping bench is present at the rear (north) part of the house but is not well-defined architecturally. The layered construction of turf walls were clearly shown in the stratigraphy of the east wall cut. A large mass of grey stoneware sherds from a single vessel were found on a raised bench east of the house entry doorway. West of the entry an artifact cache was found on the floor at the base of the western bench platform; among the finds were a piece of iron bar stock, an iron arrowhead, an iron saw blade fragment, a small sheet of copper, a leadlike mineral mass, and fragments of bottle glass and tile. On the western bench we found iron spear foreshafts, a caribou skull, several blue glass beads, and pieces of grey stoneware. The midden outside the west wall produced nails, a bead, stoneware, large samples of caribou bone and some well-preserved fish and shell remains. Excavation of a 2 x 2 m square at the entrance of House 2 produced large amount of caribou food bone, soapstone vessel fragments, stoneware, a whalebone sled runner, and a whalebone harpoon or lance foreshaft. This entry way was nicely paved with closely-fitting flat stone slabs. While we now have a better picture of house architecture and artifact assemblages from the Hart Chalet, our three-person excavation team was not large enough to completely open up House 1 or do more than sample its bone- and artifact-rich middens.

After hours surveys on the limestone barrens east of the Hart home in Brador relocated the early Maritime Ar

chaic mounds Rene Levesque excavated in the late 1960s. These structures are among the oldest archaeological sites known in eastern Quebec and probably date to the same period as the L’Anse Amour mound in Forteau, Labrador. Other similar features may still exist in the vicinity. West of Brador, a walking tour in the old village area known as Five Leagues, between Middle Bay and St. Paul River, resulted in location of a Basque oven and old Indian sites on raised beaches. More archaeological surveys should be done in this area, for its sheltered coves, small boat harbors, and easy access to fishing and marine mammal hunting in the Gulf would have made it very attractive to early European visitors.

Barkham, Selma

1980 A Note on the Strait of Belle Isle During the Period of Basque Contact with Indians and Inuit. Etudes limit Studies 4( 1 2):5158.

Belvin, Cleophas

2006 The Forgotten Labrador: Kegashka to Blanc Sablon: a Short History of the Lower North Shore. Montreal: Queens University Press.

Brouague, Marcel de

1923 Divers Memoires de M. de Brouague au Conseil de Marine, Rapport de PArchiviste de la Provcince de Quebec pour 192223, pp. 356-406. Ls. A. Proulx, Quebec.

Bryce-Bennet, Carol (ed.)

1977 Our Foot-prints are Everywhere. Inuit Land-use and Occupancy. Labrador Inuit Assocation.

Drouin, Pierre

1988 Des Baleiniers Basques a File Nue de Mingan. Canadian Journal of Archaeology 12:1-15.

Dumais, Pierre, and Jean Poirier

1994 Temoignage d’un Site Archeologique Inuit, Baie des Belles Amours, Basse-Cote-Nord. Recherches Amerindiennes au Quebec 24(1-2): 18-30.

Fitzhugh, William W.

2001 The Gateway’s Project 2001: Archaeological Survey of the Quebec Lower North Shore, Gulf of St. Lawrence, from Mingan to Blanc Sablon. 90 pp. Arctic Studies Center, Smithsonian Institution. Report on file at the Ministry of Culture and Communication, Quebec.

Fitzhugh, William W.

2006 Cultures, Borders, and Basques: Archaeological Surveys on Quebec’s Lower North Shore. In: From the Arctic to Avalon: Papers in Honour of James A. Tuck. Edited by Lisa Rankin and Peter Ramsden, pp. 53-70. British Archaeological Reports International Series 1507.

2009 Exploring Cultural Boundaries: the ‘Invisible’ Inuit of Southern Labrador and Quebec. In On the Track of the Thule Culture from Bering Strait to East Greenland, edited by Bjame Gronnow, pp. 129-148. Studies in Archaeology and History, 15. National Museum of Denmark, Copenhagen.

Fitzhugh, William W„ and others (eds.)

2001-2012 St. Lawrence Gateways Project Field Reports. Published annually by Arctic Studies Center, National Museum of Natural History, Smithsonian Institution. Copies on file at Government of Quebec, Ministry of Culture and Communication and published

online: http://www.mnh.si.edu/arctic/html/pub_field.html.

Fitzhugh, William W., and Erik Phaneuf

2006-2013 St. Lawrence Gateways Project Annual Reports published in The Provincial Archaeology> Office Newsletter. Provincial Archaeology Office, Government of Newfoundland and Labrador. Department of Tourism, Culture, and Recreation. St. John’s, Newfoundland. http://www.tcr.gov.nI.ca/tcr/pao/Newsletters/Newsletters.htm

1 02

Fitzhugh, William W.

2013 After Red Bay: A Basque-Inuit Joint Venture on the Quebec Lower North Shore. Revista Intemacionale de los Estudios Vascos. 59(2): 320-348.

Fitzhugh, William W„ and Erik Phaneuf

2014a The Gateways Project 2013. Land and Underwater Excavations at Hare Harbor and Brador. 321 pp. Smithsonian Arctic Studies Center. Washington DC. http://www.mnh.si.edu/arctic/html/pdf/quebecfieldreport2013_FlNAL.pdf

Fitzhugh, William W„ and Erik Phaneuf

2014b Basques and Inuit at Flare Flarbor-1 and the Inuit Hart Chalet site on the Quebec Lower North shore. Provincial Archaeology’ Office 2013 Archaeology> Review 12:33-49. Department of Tourism, Culture, and Recreation, Government of Newfoundland Labrador. St. John’s.

Fitzhugh, William W„ Anja Herzog, Sophia Perdikaris, and Brenna McLeod

2006 Ship to Shore: Inuit, Basques, and Maritime Landscapes in the Northern Gulf of St. Lawrence. In Maritime Archaeological Landscapes: Terrestrial and Undenvater Sites , edited by Ben Ford, pp 99-128. Society for Historical Archaeology. Springer Publications.

Fitzhugh, William W„ Anja Herzog, Sophia Perdikaris, and Brenna McLeod

2008 Baleines, Morues, et les Basques: l’Archeologie d’un Site Basque du XVIle siecle dans le Golfe du St. Laurent, Quebec. Paper presented at Les actes du 133e Congres du Comite des Travaux Historiques et Scientifiques, held in Quebec 2 to 6 June, 2008.

Johnston D.W., Matthew T. Bowers, Ari S. Friedlaender.and David M. Lavigne

2012 The Effects of Climate Change on Harp Seals ( Pagophilus groen/andicns). PLoS ONE, 7(1): e29158 DOI: 10.137l/jonrnal. pone. 0029158)

Levesque, Rene

1968 L ’Archeologie a Brador. Preliminary Report on File at la Societe d’Archeoiogie de la Cote-Nord.

2002 Bible d’Amenagement du Saint-Laurent Fleuve, Estuaire, Golfe. Phase Premier. La Basse-Cote-Nord: Porte Priviliegee des Pionniers d’Amerique. Draft manuscript available from the author and on file at Arctic Studies Center.

Maritjn, Charles A.

1974 Archaeological Research on the Lower Saint-Lawrence North-Shore, Quebec. In Archaeological Salvage Projects 1972, edited by W. .1. Byrne. Archaeological Survey of Canada Mercury Series Paper 15, pp. 112-130. Ottawa: National Museum of Man.

1980a La Presence Inuit sur la Cote-Nord du Golfe St-Laurent a l’Epoque Historique. Etudes Inuit Studies 4(1-2): 105-125.

1980b The “Esquimaux” in the 17th and 18th Century Cartography of the Gulf of St. Lawrence: a Preliminary Discussion. Etudes Inuit Studies 4( 1 -2y.ll- 104.

Martijn, Charles A., and Norman Clermont

1980 Introduction: the Land God Gave to Caine. Etudes Inuit Studies 4( 1 -2):5-18.

Maritjn, Charles A., and Louis-Jacques Dorais

2001 Eighteenth-Century Innu (Montagnais) and Inuit Toponyms in the Northern Peninsula of Newfoundland. Newfoundland Studies 17(2):319-330.

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